3 days and a new dog: Training

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3 days and a new dog: Training 3 DAY DOG TRAINING:

HAVING ISSUES WITH YOUR DOG? Pulls on lead? Jumps? Gets too excited? Barks? WOULD YOU LIKE HIM/HER TO BE ABLE TO:
Heel when walking?
(12)

Stop jumping? Stay when told? Remain in a sit/drop no matter what is going on around them?

19/11/2024

Make your own group training:
My next scheduled obedience course isn't until March. However, if you can get 3 or more friends together I'll schedule you in for obedience training when it suits you.
$660 per person.
Each session is approx 2-3 hours in duration.
Send me a message when you've got some friends lined up :)

Your dogs and the heat: How hot is too hot to walk your dog; and what other things should we know. Please read in full :...
18/11/2024

Your dogs and the heat: How hot is too hot to walk your dog; and what other things should we know. Please read in full :)

First of all the science:
Before we debate how hot is too hot, let's understand a little about our dogs in order to understand the answer.
First, dogs are not like us. They don't regulate heat in the same way. For them, the two main ways they release heat are: through panting; and through the paws of their feet.
This means the issue isn't just about burning their paws (which is a big reason why people turn to bo**ies and think they've solved the problem), the issue is ensuring the dog has the ability to cool down through their paws and their mouth.

So now consider two scenarios:
A dog who has a muzzle on that's incorrectly fitted. This dog will overheat rapidly regardless of what the temperature is. Why? Because a correctly fitted muzzle should allow the entire dog's mouth to open inside the muzzle, thus allowing it to pant and regulate heat. An incorrectly fitted muzzle will not allow the dog's mouth to open, and thus the dog cannot open-mouth-pant and therefore will be unable to regulate their temperature.

Next:
A dog who is wearing bo**ies. Well-meaning owners go out and think they're doing their dog a favour by buying little bo**ies that fit on their dog's feet. They do so because they've seen the pictures of burnt paw pads and they think 'oh I need to protect my little one's feet'. Again though, if you purchase the wrong type of bo**ie (ie a water proof one for winter, or a cheap one that doesn't allow breathability) then, again, regardless of temperature you've just made it incredibly difficult for your dog to regulate their body temperature regardless of the what the thermometer says, and so your dog is likely to overheat.

So what is the answer?
Generally speaking, a dog that is not heat intolerant (ie not cold-weather dogs like Malamutes, Huskies, Akita's etc); or brachyscome dogs (ie like pugs, mastiffs, boxers, frenchies) or with health issues, can be walked happily up to 24 degrees celsius. Though, be smart, you know yourself, if you hit a 24 degree day in the middle of winter after weeks of 16... the 24 feels like 30. Because you haven't acclimatised to it. It is the same for your dog. This is why when I was living in Michigan, USA, I saw a boy in shorts and a singlet going for a walk when it was only 2 degrees... because we'd just come out of weeks of -40! So, if you do hit one of those compariably warmer days in winter, understand your dog also needs time to acclimatise.

The next thing to consider is why not just when it's too hot to touch with the back of your hand. Here's why. The too-hot-for-the-back-of-your-hand- temperature is usually around the 28 degree mark. Which is higher than what I've recommended above. So why do I recommend less than this? Because it's not about your dog's paws being burnt. Yes, that's awful! But the danger isn't just in blistering paws. The danger is in the dog not being able to regulate heat. So, if you walk your dog on a surface that is warm - not talking hot, just warm- and the air is also warm, and the dog needs to cool down, they cannot. Because all they have is their panting, which is not enough. They need to be able to release that heat through their paws but with the ground being warm they can't. Hence, if you're waiting for the ground to be too hot to touch, you're actually waiting too long.

So what to do instead:
If you're where we live, summer doesn't have too many under-24-days. Sometimes not even in the evening or morning. Sometimes not even in the middle of the night.
Of course, the first suggestion will be: if you've got a day with a morning or evening of 24 or under temperature then go for a walk then. But on the days when you don't, some suggestions:

1. Use mental enrichment games ie scent tracking, snuffle mats, hide and seek, tricks, agility etc.

2. If you're blessed with a large inside area, play with them there.

3. Play in a shaded grassy area and keep play to a short duration. Follow the dog's cues and allow them to rest whenever they want. BUT do NOT assume your dog will rest when they need. Some dogs - particularly working dogs, will just keep going. It is not a myth that you can run your dog to the point they drop dead. You definitely can. Likewise if you have a sun-bathing dog like ours who would otherwise choose to lay on the boiling hot concrete and sun tan themselves for hours on end, realise just like a child who doesn't always know what's best for them, neither does your dog. Heat stroke is a real issue. And sometimes you need to be the voice of reason for your dog to tell them it's enough.

4. Provide fresh water for your dogs frequently to drink.

5. Go to mitre 10 grab one of those sandpit clam shells for $15. Fill it with water and play fetch in and out of the water with them. Side note: if you're taking your dog to the beach, bear in mind the same issues are present as sand gets extremely hot. Also, an additional note on beach going; be very mindful that playing fetch on the beach isn't always a good thing as when your dog picks up the ball, they are likely to be ingesting large amounts of sand also. This sand can cause intestinal blockages and can kill. Likewise salt content (from a wet soggy ball that's been in the waves) is also an issue.

6. If you're walking a short distance ie from your car to the shop door this is where those bo**ies do come in handy, as it's not so much about heat regulation that's the issue here as it is about short exposure to radiant heat (from the pavement/bitumen etc) which could cause burns. So throw some bo**ies on, or carry them, or a stroller, or pick the path that's shortest, most shaded and get there real quick. Do not stop to talk on the bitumen. And once inside remove the bo**ies do your dog can regulate their temperature well again.

Other facts about heat:
1. Do not leave your dog in a car. Doesn't matter if the windows are down. If it's hot, it's hotter in that car. Do not leave them.
2. Do not tie them up in the sun. Doesn't matter if it's on the grass. Tie them up where there's shade. Yes that might mean walking further, but I'm sure you wouldn't enjoy sitting out in the sun on a hot day even if there was grass under your t**h.
3. Do not leave them in an area without access to water. Dogs need access to water. And, while we're on the topic of water - remember, communal water bowls, while better than nothing if you've forgotten yours, are NOT ideal. Take your own water and water bowl.
4. For therapy dogs in settings where you are required to have your dog with you- possibly in heat-soaked areas, this is what I have always done with Pauley:
A) Asked that we do yard duty in the shaded areas. If this couldn't be catered for, then I would leave him inside and I would go and do yard duty by myself.
B) At events ie school sports day, where the sun and heat are high. I would hang out with Pauley in the grassy shaded areas. I would communicate this prior to the day, and if the school required me to be in the sun, then I would leave Pauley at home.
C) Taking Pauley into venues from the car, I would follow my above suggestions on avoiding the pavement. Bear in mind if you use bo**ies, once you are inside take them off. Your dog still needs to regulate their temperature inside also, and the bo**ies do hinder this.

On the whole, remember, heat can kill. And even if it doesn't, heat will cause discomfort. Your best friend deserves better.

06/11/2024

The type of obedience you receive from me.
New distractions ✔️
Listening skills ✔️
Knowing how to communicate in all settings ✔️
Responsiveness to voice alone ✔️

Places are open for:
March 16, 23 and 30, $660, Ararat, 9am-12pm.
Message me to secure your place.

03/11/2024

I love this video. It has all the feels of puppy training in one go. The feeling of success- YES! The losing the plot- Oh dear! And then the feeling of success again- woot.
If you would like to come along to an enjoyable (lots of laughs), educational (presentations on all things health, behaviour and development) and social (exposure to people, pups, other dogs and things), then join us at puppy school.

Sundays 9am-10am. (To beat the heat).
$50 or $190 for all 4 sessions up front.

How did you spend your Halloween.... read below to see how a past grad seized the training opportunity! "I took the oppo...
03/11/2024

How did you spend your Halloween.... read below to see how a past grad seized the training opportunity!

"I took the opportunity of all the people coming to the front door to get all the dogs to sit quietly. They often run and bark at the front door as they are so excited for visitors so it was great to spend 2.5 hours reinforcing calmness with visitors!"

Go Kat! You little legend!

Next available obedience course March 16, 23 and 30, $660, Ararat.

02/11/2024

Call out for agility training and puppy school this morning. If you're in the area, 9am starts puppy school and 9.30am starts agility training. Shoot me a message to join :) Times changed to beat the heat.

Snake advice: What to do: Last night I posted on the topic of snake vs dog training and promised a "what you can do" pos...
28/10/2024

Snake advice: What to do:
Last night I posted on the topic of snake vs dog training and promised a "what you can do" post. So here it is! If you missed last night's post go back and have a read, but for now enjoy some tips on how to minimise your pet's risk:

1) Make your yard less snake attractive. This includes:
- Keeping grass cut short.
- Removing debris, tin, wood piles, rubbish, rocks etc. Anything that could be used as a snake shelter.
- Making sure all paths are clear so you can see where you are walking.
- Keep in mind certain plants are great for snakes- particularly those that provide low to the ground coverage (ie an agapantha bush). A snake could be living here, or passing through and your dog's nose is not seen as a welcome intrusion for the snake. Again try to minimise the amount of coverage snakes could like/use.
- Store any firewood away from the house.

2) Minimising access to water. Snakes need to drink. Your beautiful outdoor pond, or dog's water bowl can be a source of water for snakes which bring them into your yard.

3) Reduce food sources outside (ie chicken eggs, compost piles etc). These bring mice, mice bring snakes. So too with ponds that bring frogs. Frogs bring snakes. Clean up any spilled food, fruit or bird seed, which also attract mice and therefore snakes.

4) Walk your dog on a lead during summer and minimise the amount of sniffing time you allow on your walks. Dogs are most often bitten on walks when they are sniffing around in bushes etc. The snake sees them as a threat, the dog sees or sometimes doesn't even see them, but their nose poking in the snake's business isn't welcomed and is often met with a bite to their face or limbs.

5) Limit outdoor time in the evening- Snakes are most active at the end of the day when the weather has started to cool. Also limit outdoor time at night as a lot of snakes prefer to be active at this time rather than during the day.

6) Get some Guinea Fowl- these birds aren't a magic formula to having no snakes, instead what they can do is alert you to their presence, and help you to know to keep your furry friends inside. (They shriek and carry on, running over to the snake and often pecking it until it leaves/dies).

7) This one is a bit sceptical. Some trainers encourage not playing with rope toys- or other snake-like toys. I'm not sold on this advice- I believe dogs are smart enough to know the difference between a rope and a snake. Nevertheless, erring on the side of caution is never a bad thing.

8) Teach your dog to follow your commands. This can save their lives in more than just a snake scenario. When Pauley had a brown snake in his mouth a few years ago (yes, you read right- in his mouth), he was thrashing it around his head like a whip. I yelled “Pauley, leave” at the top of my lungs, at which point he let go of the snake - which then flew through the air. I then yelled “sit”, to which he did. I inspected the snake- it was dead- then disposed of the snake (be aware, just because they’re dead, doesn’t mean they aren’t deadly! They can still kill your pet and you if their fangs scratch them etc). And then promptly took him to the vet. He was fine and luckily wasn't bitten. I have also received several messages of thankful owners after attending my 3 day obedience course who saw a snake and were able to call their dogs back and away.

9) If your dog was near a snake, and you’re not sure if they were bitten or not- TAKE. THEM. TO. THE. VET. Better safe than sorry. At the very least they’ll keep them for observation. Waiting for a dog to show symptoms is akin to waiting for your dog to start the process of dying. Bear in mind, many of our snakes cause delayed symptoms in dogs (ie the dog doesn't show signs until hours later); many also cause the dog to crash, then "bounce back" as though they have recovered, until to crash again later. It is important to take your dog to a vet if you even suspect a snake interaction has occurred.

10) Don’t suck the wound.

11) If your dog isn’t with the snake, but they’ve seen it and won’t leave it alone- get your hose. Douse the dog in water to break its attention and get them away from it. Do not do this if your dog is with the snake as it can cause them to lose focus and get bitten, but if they're not physically near it yet, this is the time to use the hose.

12) You don’t need to bring the snake into the vets! They now have a one size fits all antivenom. If you wish (and it's safe to do so) you can take a photo of the snake, but don't risk yourself just to get the photo.

13) Do not let your dog examine dead snakes as they still have venomous fangs. Also, the snake may not be dead. Some snakes can stay extremely still even when danger is nearby.

14) Know the symptoms. You may not have seen the snake, or seen the interaction between dog and snake. You may only see the results. Know the symptoms:
Severe lethargy
Collapse
Shaking or twitching
Dilated pupils or difficulty blinkning
Vomiting
Loss of bladder or bowel control
Blood in urine
Ataxia (loss of function of body movements) which could be seen as difficulty walking
Breathing difficulties (rapid and shallow)
Excessive salivation (drooling)
Bleeding from snake bite wound
Paralysis or Collapse
Coma or death
"Bouncing back" (as mentioned above the dog goes downhill rapidly, then seems to recover. During this recovery period is it crucial you take them to the vet. If it is a snake bite they will collapse again and this time likely die).

15) If your dog has been bitten:
A) Most importantly, keep calm yourself and control your own emotions.
B ) Make sure it’s safe. Snake is dead or gone. Dog is with you.
C) Keep your dog still and calm as possible and reduce stimulus around him. Lift him up and carry him to the car. Put him in the car. This restricts movement. Don't like him walk to the car. If you can, have a passenger hold him in the car also to stop any unrequired movement.
D) Remove people who will make the situation worse.
E) Do NOT wash the wound; Do NOT apply a tourniquet, Do NOT apply ice or alcohol or bleed the wound. These approaches do not work and you are just wasting time.
F) NEVER try to catch or kill the snake yourself. If you can SAFELY get a photo of the snake, then do so, otherwise leave it.
G) Call the vet as you are taking them to it. Let them know you’re coming and that you think your dog has been bitten.
H) Get them to the vet. Carry them - rather than walk them- inside if you can.

16) A pretty drastic measure is to only allow your dog outside on lead during the spring/summer months. Bear in mind, this is a fairly extreme method, however for some people - people who've lost a dog to snake bite, who live near a reserve/ creek where snake activity will be high no matter what you do, it's understandable.

17) It goes without saying, do not try to touch, pick up, remove, relocate or kill a snake. Call your local snake catcher. Put your pets and children inside/away from the snake, try to keep an eye on where it goes, but don't chase or try to stop it. Most people are bitten when they try to interact with a snake rather than calling a professional.

Image is not mine. You can find it here
https://www.britannica.com/animal/brown-snake

Snake aversion training: My advice. The weather's warming up. Snakes are being sighted. Fear increases about the risk to...
27/10/2024

Snake aversion training: My advice.

The weather's warming up.
Snakes are being sighted.
Fear increases about the risk to our four legged friends.
It's here that snake aversion training usually enters the conversation.
I've already been asked about it four times if I run it and have seen numerous posts asking for dog trainers who do.

So let me give you my take on teaching our dogs to avoid snakes, particularly with the use of e-collars.

Before you sign up to a course (no matter who it's run by) I'd like to share my journey with you. If you're considering having your dogs do a snake vs dog course through the use of e-collars I'd ask you to read first.

So here we go:

At the end of 2022, I looked into training to run a course which taught dogs to avoid snakes. I signed up, learnt the method, and was feeling ready to implement the course.

I came back to Ararat where I talked to our local vets. They had VERY strong opinions regarding snake avoidance training through the use of e-collars. They suggested that I do more research into the effects that it can have on some dogs that do the course. They were also strong in purporting that in no way do they ever endorse the training.

I was surprised, to say the least.

I started to call vets in Bendigo, Melbourne and Gipsland where they have snake avoidance courses on the regular. I wanted to know whether they see these effects in dogs once snake avoidance courses are completed. What I can say is I was continually met with the same concern the Ararat vets had outlined to me. Namely:
while it's a minority of dogs that do the course which come away from the training with negative repercussions. It is (in their opinion) too high of a minority for it not to be a substantial risk. (Ie. A small minority could be 1% - basically zero - but equally a larger minority could be 49%). While they didn't give a figure, they were suggesting in their observations that it sat closer to that higher minority figure rather than the lower minority.

Dogs can become:
* unpredictable;
* nervous;
* anxious;
* refuse people to touch their heads and necks;
* can snap for no apparent reason whether they are triggered or not;
* can become aggressive; and untrustworthy around children.
Among other things.

And many of these things appearing immediately, or even manifesting over several weeks post training.

Of course, not every dog will develop these outcomes, however, there is no way to know if your dog will or won't be the dog to change post course. It's also not as rare as you might think. I know of 4 dogs last year that have experienced negative effects after completing a snake avoidance course (to be fair though, I am in the industry where I'm more likely to hear from people as they're looking for help with their dogs). And while the vets varied in their estimates of the considered risk level of the training, all agreed it was a minority that wasn't minimal, and which caused the majority of the vet centres I contacted to be uncomfortable with endorsing snake avoidance training.

Some vets that I spoke to were happy with the risk level if the dogs were farm dogs (as they were less likely to see other people etc) but *most* (there were a handful who said they didn't mind the courses) were not happy with snake avoidance courses for dogs that were in town as there were higher chances of negative interactions with people and other dogs as these dogs are walked in town, often have visitors over, etc etc.

In talking to many snake vs dog trainers since discovering this information and asking them specifically about it, most are aware of the implications and have seen it occassionaly, but also most hold to the vice: a dead dog (from a snake bite) is worse than an unpredictable one...

Personally, I'm not entirely sure I'd agree with this - as, in my opinion you need to be able to trust your dog around kids and other dogs, even around yourself, and if you can't, then I'm not sure it's safe to keep them.

But, each to their own.

I might be going a bit harsh on the topic here- but a few years ago when I signed up to do the course to expand the business, I had no idea I'd be writing this instead.

If you've got this far reading, thank you. I'd encourage you to just look a little deeper into snake vs dog courses, to contact your local vets, and, especially if you're considering therapy dog training- please don't participate in snake avoidance training, it's not worth the risk to your dog's temperament.

Tomorrow night I'll post a "what you can do" post instead of how to minimise your risk of your furry friend having a snake encounter.

Feel free to share if this is of interest to anyone you might know.

** photo is not mine. You can find it here:
https://www.billabongsanctuary.com.au/eastern-brown-snake/

27/10/2024

Don't be fooled... I didn't just do agility and puppy school today. I also ran my last obedience course for the year in the morning. Check out the recall on these guys :)

Top tip: if you're not already, start playing hide and seek with your dog :) It builds fun, anticipation, excitement and is a brilliant way to make recall training enjoyable and reinforced for all.

My next available obedience course is March 16, 23 and 30. $660. 9am-12pm. *Book now.

My next available therapy dog course is January 6-9, 9am-4pm. $2000. *Book now.

Agility training runs this year until December 22, 9.30am. $20 a session. *Book now.

Puppy school runs this year until December 22, 9am. $50 a session or $190 for all four sessions. *Book now.

27/10/2024

Another one of our agility participants showing their at home practise :) how awesome, Jem and Chaz!!! :) I LOVE it ❤️.

If you have kids who love their dog, agility training is a fantastic way to get them involved and invested in their four legged friend.

Agility training is 9.30am Sunday mornings. $20 a session or $150 for 10. Open to dogs of all ages.

Puppy school is at 9am-10am Sunday mornings. $50 a session or $190 for all four sessions.

27/10/2024

Little Rusty wasn't here for our agility competition today... however suffice to say I think he would've won our pushing the ball forward and into a goal competition. Well done, Rusty and Elise for your work at home!!

Agility training is Sundays at 9.30am. $20.

So much fun at Agility training 💪 With the weather warming up there is a time change! 9.30am-10.30am Sundays. $20 for on...
27/10/2024

So much fun at Agility training 💪
With the weather warming up there is a time change!
9.30am-10.30am Sundays.
$20 for one or $150 for 10 sessions.

Puppy school
9am-10am Sundays
$50 a session or $190 for all four.

20/10/2024

It was a busy day today. Obedience training in the morning, agility and puppy school in the afternoon. The below video shows our dogs choosing to listen to us rather than go see their friends who are in close proximity. Well done all.

20/10/2024

Another one from today's agility session! Last week our dogs learnt to weave between our legs. Today they had a race :) ... and I learnt that I should never be a commentator 🤣🤣🤣
Join us next week, 2.30pm, $20.

20/10/2024

So much fun at agility today. :) If you're free on a Sunday afternoon, come and join us. $20. 2.30-3.30pm.

20/10/2024

Teaching pullers to walk nicely. :) where I say "normal" in this video refers to their pace (I call out, "fast", "normal" or "slow" and the dogs have to match their owner's pace). Today is session 1 of learning to walk on a loose lead without pulling. :)

Don't forget! PUPPY SCHOOL and AGILITY TRAINING on again today. Sundays 2pm (puppy school) Sundays 2.30pm (agility) Both...
19/10/2024

Don't forget! PUPPY SCHOOL and AGILITY TRAINING on again today.
Sundays 2pm (puppy school)
Sundays 2.30pm (agility)
Both go until 3.30ish.

Shoot me a message if you'd like to join us.
$20 a session- agility.
$50 a session- puppy school (4 sessions in the course).
OR
$150 for 10 sessions - agility.
$190 for the full puppy school course.

So much fun at agility training today! If you'd like to join it's Sundays, 2.30pm-3.30pm, $20 a session or $150 for 10 s...
13/10/2024

So much fun at agility training today! If you'd like to join it's Sundays, 2.30pm-3.30pm, $20 a session or $150 for 10 sessions. We'd love to have you :)

Puppy school is at 2pm and runs through until 3pm, including the agility course (with a special area for just the pups). $190 for 4 sessions or $50 a session.

Physical exercise. Mental Stimulation. Learning to focus on you in a busy environment. Fun. Making friends. Building relationships. These are the reasons to join :)

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