3 days and a new dog: Training

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3 days and a new dog: Training 3 DAY DOG TRAINING:

HAVING ISSUES WITH YOUR DOG? Pulls on lead? Jumps? Gets too excited? Barks? WOULD YOU LIKE HIM/HER TO BE ABLE TO:
Heel when walking?
(1)

Stop jumping? Stay when told? Remain in a sit/drop no matter what is going on around them?

08/01/2025

Another clip showing what our dogs learnt to do in just 3 days. Stay in their sit or drop while we left them and went and patted all the other dogs (a hard one for dogs who might have a bit of FOMO or jealousy 🤣). The other part of this is to look at all the other dogs receiving pats and love calmly without jumping or getting overly excited. Another skill they've learnt in 3 days.

08/01/2025

Today was a busy morning. In 3 days this is what our dogs learnt how to do. Could any of them do it at the start? 😂 Actually, they did literally laugh at me when I told them what they'd be doing. Yet here they are... doing it. Well done all.

We're on again! 🎊 School Holiday Therapy Dog Training FREE program THIS WEEK. 🎊 please join us.:) FREE PROGRAM. 👌 All ag...
05/01/2025

We're on again! 🎊 School Holiday Therapy Dog Training FREE program THIS WEEK. 🎊 please join us.

:) FREE PROGRAM.
👌 All ages welcome 0-100.
🙌 Ararat 800 Primary school, times below.
😊Our future Therapy Dogs are gearing up for some intense training next week. And we'd LOVE TO HAVE YOU help us!

🎈Monday 6th JAN: 11.00am-12pm. What: Get to know our therapy dogs, give them pats and love; and put them through their paces with some distraction toys.

🎈Tuesday 7th JAN: 11am-12pm. What: Take our therapy dogs for a walk. Help them with their recall. Give them more pats and love, and distraction training.

🎈Wednesday 8th JAN: Time: To Be Confirmed. What: The full kit and caboodle. Walk our dogs. Pat our dogs. Distraction training and more.

Please note:
🎉 If you would prefer your children not have their photo taken, please see me once you arrive, and point them out so I know not to photo them.

🎉 If you would like to train your own dog as a therapy dog, my next therapy dog course is April 14-17 and it has a few places available also. All obedience training, temperament testing, certification, testing public visits and theory is included. Dogs need to be non reactive to people and other dogs, and enjoy receiving love and pats from people. ($2000 9am-3pm).

School holidays are around the corner- the time where most puppies come into homes. If you're thinking of getting a pup,...
05/12/2024

School holidays are around the corner- the time where most puppies come into homes. If you're thinking of getting a pup, please read this. :)

The issue of socialisation vs parvo virus rears it's head all the time. Whether it's in online forums or when a person calls me about their now reactive dog. 100% a lack of early socialisation is the worst thing we can do for our dogs. Please read below and feel free to share far and wide. We need to get the message out: SAFE SOCIALISATION BEFORE FULL VACCINATION STATUS IS CRUCIAL!

Here's the question:
Should I wait until my puppy is fully vaccinated before I take them out or should I take them out now.

Here's my answer:
Yes! 100% please DO take them out before being fully vaccinated. Your pup has a critical socialisation window from 6-16 weeks (with the peak period being 8-12). If you wait until they're fully vaccinated you miss out on this critical socialisation window. This is akin to an adult learning a language compared to a child. A child learns language much faster. Your pup needs to be socialised. It needs to see people. Lots of people. And it needs to happen ideally between 8-12 weeks of age, and continue until they're 16 weeks. This includes (but is not limited to) Men. Women. Umbrellas. Trucks. Kids. Beanies. Hoodies. Bikes. Different ethnicities. Cars. Sounds. Gun shots (from a shooting range in case you ever move house and are near a shooting range). Lightning. Thunder. Rain. And the list goes on. And remember, it needs all (or at least most of these) to see them ideally between 8-12 weeks of age.

Keeping them at home is a recipe for reactivity later on. It is SO much easier to prevent reactivity than it is to fix it. And you prevent it by early socialisation.

But equally, viruses can harm your pup. So, while you socialise you need to do so safely. I read a comment just before of someone saying just walk them on concrete. No. Concrete is not safe. Nor is grass. Nor is dirt. Another comment said take them to non-high traffic areas. No. That's not safe either. It takes one dog to carry the virus and your dog to pick it up.

So what do you do?

Carry your pup. Put them in a stroller. Get a special dog carry bag if you must. But do get out and socialise. Just do so safely. Don't put your pup on the ground when in public. Let them play only with vaccinated dogs and only at yours or their houses. Don't take them to the dog park. Don't let them drink out of communal water bowls (yes, even the water bowl at the vets, don't let them drink from any public water source that's not yours). Don't let them play with the communal tennis balls.

But again, PLEASE make every effort to socialise them. Just do it safely. Please DO NOT wait until they're full vaccinated.

If you're not aware, I have a book I have written on all things puppy which I can send you. The cost is $10. I also run a free puppy page which has information on all things puppy (link below), and run puppy school, 9am Sundays $50 a session, or $190 for all 4.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/594467001156856/?ref=share_group_link

04/12/2024

Who should come to training?

Everyone. Anyone who lives with the dog should come to training if they can. Kids. Teenagers. Partners. Grandparents. If they're living in your house they are welcome to come.

Why?

Because it's so much easier to train your dog to listen to everyone if everyone is on the same page. Also, because I think it's an important part of owning a pet- that the whole family see it as their responsibility, including kids. Learning respect for animals starts when we teach our kids to be responsible for what's in our home.

So if you can, I'd love to see the whole family at all of my training courses- be that agility, obedience, or puppy school. If it's a bit difficult to get everyone there, then what I usually ask is for everyone to come to at least the first one, as that's the most important in terms of information understanding. If you can get to the first one together as a family that will be awesome.

My next availiable courses for 2025 are:
January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500*
April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions)
Agility Training - every Sunday, $20

*other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100.

Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

Best age to train a dog? Ok, so this one has three main facets to it: 1) The age they are trainable. 2) The best age to ...
03/12/2024

Best age to train a dog?

Ok, so this one has three main facets to it:
1) The age they are trainable.
2) The best age to train according to your personality. Young dog, old dog and everything in between.
3) My opinion of the best age.

Read on and I'll unpack each of these.

Looking for a moment, just at the age your dog is trainable. My method of training is suitable and successful for dogs that are 5 months or older. At this age, your pup is old enough to concentrate, learn and manage their impulses (even if they don't do it well before being trained. They are entirely capable of it).

Second, looking at the best age to train your dog.
This one really depends on what sort of person you are.
At 5 months (the youngest I allow in my obedience course) it's likely when your dog graduates they won't be the top of the class. Oh don't worry, they'll be listening, you'll have new skills, and will be amazed at what they can do, but it's likely they'll still have their "pup energy" which leads to brain farts every now and then. If you can live with continuing consistency post course then this is the best age to train. Why? Your dog is not stronger than you. Your dog doesn't already have entrenched bad habits. When your dog goes through the "teenage" stage (usually agreed as around the 9months-2 year stage) you'll have the knowledge of how to nip all new behaviours in the bud straight away before they become solid habits.

If that doesn't sound right for you, then maybe you're a 1-2 year person.
At 1-2 years your dog is usually annoying you more than you'd like to admit. You might have seen my course earlier and thought, 'oh their behaviour isn't too bad, I can deal with this' and now you're like 'darn it, I should have done it earlier'.
If this is you, this is still a fine time to train. Your dog does have some more entrenched bad habits, but they are still fairly easy to manipulate back. If your dog is a large breed, they havn't reached their full size yet making it easier to train them. If your dog is a medium breed, they probably have reached their full height but not weight, again making it easier to handle them. If your dog is a small breed, well, it doesn't really matter as most people will be able to control a 5kg dog if it decides to pull regardless of how old they are.

And if the 1-2 year category doesn't seem to fit, then I'll lump you with every other age from 2-14. Most people in this category have tried many different things. Trainers. Food. Equipment. But for some reason, the behaviour isn't improving on your own. Others of you, may have only just found my training and love the look of what I do. You see I don't use food, you watch the videos, you like the philosophy I use of increasing trust between you and your dog, and so out of curiosity you're joining my course rather than their being a behavioural need. Either way, there's good news: the old adage "an old dog can't learn new tricks" is not true. I can train any dog no matter their age. I do caution people to think ethically if your dog is over 10. Yes, your dog is able to learn, but really, is it fair on the dog in their senior years to change the way they've lived for the last 10 years?

And finally, my opinion:
What age do I consider it best to train?
Anywhere between 5 and 9 months.
They're old enough to have a solid foundation of love with you, and to learn impulse control. They're probably pushing the boundaries but are really not too difficult. Their body size is easy to manipulate if you've got a larger dog, and it gives you the skills to know exactly what to do any time a new behaviour arises so that it doesn't become their default behaviour. This isn't to say I can't train older dogs... of course I can! :) (most dogs in my course are older than 5-9 months) it's just to say if you're sitting on the fence about a young dog, I'd say do it. You won't regret it.

My next availiable courses for 2025 are:
January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500*
April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions)
Agility Training - every Sunday, $20

*other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100.

Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

28/11/2024

What do I get for your $660 obedience course?

$660 is a lot of money. I know it. So here's what you get from it and why I charge it:

1. Unlike other training courses you may attend weekly for months, if not years on end and still end up with a dog that half listens, this training course is 3 half days in length and at the end, if you follow the instructions, do your homework, and remain consistent you'll come away with a dog that listens even in the midst of the most intense distractions and situations.

2. Unlike other training courses where when you get your next pup you're signing up to do the course again, this training course teaches you everything you need to be able to train any future or current other dogs. Of course, you're welcome to come back with future dogs, but you'll also have the skills not to need to. And if you do come back you're only needing to pay $200 for the course because I'm assuming you do already know everything from the first time you did it.

3. Now onto what you can expect from your dog. Essentially this course is different from all other courses as it doesn't teach arbitrary commands like sit, stay, come (oh don't worry they'll learn those) rather it teaches you a language system to communicate with your dog.

Why is this better? It means you have the ability to tell your dog what you want them to do in any new situation without having to teach them prior.
Ie:
Taking them on a new walk and don't want them to go too far? You'll have the skills to communicate this.
Moved into a new home and don't want them to go into certain rooms or run out the gate, you'll have the language to let them know.
One family member likes the dog to jump on them but you don't, you'll be able to let the dog know when it's OK to jump and when it's not.
Having visitors over who are scared of dogs? You'll be able to ensure your dog doesn't go near them, thus ensuring your guest feels secure.
Have a dog who often steals things from the bench? Again, you'll be able to put a stop to this. And the list goes on.
All of this, without needing specific commands for each one.

4. The other major difference of this training is that I don't use food. Oh I know the theory - people are meant to use food and then scaffold off it. However, I've been around people and dogs long enough to know the reality is usually different: we never get off the food train. And our dogs are only consistent in their obedience when that piece of chicken is around. As a result, from the start, the food goes back in the cupboard, and we do positive reinforcement with our voice, attention and love only. Yes! That means everything you see on this page is done without the use of treats. Handy, so you don't need to walk around with a pocket full of food on you.

5. You also gain access to continued support through a graduate Facebook group where I periodically provide tips, challenges, and updates post training.

6. Continued opportunity for growth- 5 times a year I offer graduate refresher courses for $50. These can be used to get back on the horse if you've fallen off, or to advance your skills and take them higher.

7. You are being taught by a professional. I hold multiple degrees, certificates, and specialisations which enable what I teach you to be deep in knowledge as well as attainable in a short amount of time. My degrees include, but are not limited to:
1) Bachelor of Education - so when I teach you, you can be confident I know how to teach humans not just dogs.
2) Certificate III in Dog Training and Behaviour- so when I teach your dog, you can be confident I know what I'm doing.
3) Experience in training working dogs to high externally set standards: assistance dogs and therapy dogs.
4) Masters in Community Growth and International Development- not super relevant to dog training, except you know from the topic of my Masters that I am genuinely interested in the weelbeing of others- including my participants.
5) Further study in reactive dogs. This course was undertaken in the USA.
6) Further study into the effect of our energy, breathing, and presence on our dog. This course was undertaken in Europe.

If you'd like to enrol in any of my upcoming courses, dates are as follows:

January 6-9, Therapy dog certification, 9am-4pm, $2000
March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500*
April 14-17, Therapy dog certification, 9am-4pm, $2000
May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
July 7-10, Therapy dog certification, 9am-4pm, $2000
Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions)
Agility Training - every Sunday, $20

*other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100.

Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

Shout out to another local business- Simone, operating out of Petstock in Stawell, did a brilliant job today giving Paul...
25/11/2024

Shout out to another local business- Simone, operating out of Petstock in Stawell, did a brilliant job today giving Pauley a "haircut". In Thelli's words as she hopped into the car after picking Pauley up, "she's a very nice lady, Mum. And very clever. Pauley looks gorgeous." From the mouth of babes (Thelli is 2.5years old)... If you're looking for a groomer, Simone is excellent. Very knowledgeable, patient, kind and talented. Simone is also a past grad of my course. If I trust her with my fur babies, you know you can too.

24/11/2024

All of these dogs were pullers... 3 days later they're walking like this. :)

My next availiable courses for 2025 are:
January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500*
April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions)
Agility Training - every Sunday, $20

*other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100.

Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

If you're wondering who I am and what degrees and experience I have that enable me to teach you, read on :) I am a quali...
23/11/2024

If you're wondering who I am and what degrees and experience I have that enable me to teach you, read on :)

I am a qualified Cert III Dog Trainer and Behaviourist.

I have studied and trained in dog training and behaviour through courses in England, America, and nationally hold my Cert III through the National Dog Training Foundation.

I have completed courses specialising in dog reactivity and aggression; assistance dog; working dogs; and general obedience.

Over a 10 year span, I have trained thousands of dogs in obedience, therapy, working, and assistance dog roles.

In the obedience dog world, I have people who travel from all over Australia to complete my 3 day course, including but not limited to Darwin, Perth, Sydney, Brisbane and all across Australia- particularly (for some reason?) along the coast :) I chuckle when people from Melbourne suggest the drive is too long... only because people are literally travelling the Nullabor to be here.

In the therapy dog world, I have over a thousand past graduates of my course working in every state of Australia, and again frequently have people travelling from Western Australia, New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory to complete my course, here in Ararat.

In the assistance dog world, I have partnered with a recent Certificate IV Hanrob graduate to ensure my assessments are fair, equitable and to a national standard. I am training, and have trained dogs as alert dogs, PTSD support, autism assistance, epilepsy alert, and more.

I also have my Bachelor of Education, Graduate diploma in Ministry, Theology and Counselling, and my Masters degree in Community and International Development.

Further, I have over 10 years of working experience as a Primary and Secondary School Teacher; Wellbeing Officer; Nursing Home Chaplain, Church Pastor, and Hospital Chaplain.

All this to say, when I teach you, I have:
- An in-depth knowledge of how to train dogs,
As well as
- How to teach people.
Meaning: You are in good hands!

My next availiable courses for 2025 are:
January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500*
April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660
July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000
Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions)
Agility Training - every Sunday, $20

*other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100.

Please reach out for more informative or to book a place in any of my courses.

22/11/2024

Services I offer:
Assistance dog training, from $100
Therapy dog training, 4 days $2000
Obedience training, 3 days $660
Puppy school, 4 sessions, $190
Agility training $20

All of the above have their own FB page, I'll supply links in the comments. Please follow each that interest you.

22/11/2024

Teaching our dogs to walk on a loose lead even for a child. :) Taught during my 3 day course and 5 day therapy dog course.

Get a group of 3 friends or more and I'll make an obedience course for you. $660 per person.

Otherwise, my next obedience dates are March 16, 23 and 30, 9am-12pm, $660, Ararat. Message to secure your place.

19/11/2024

Make your own group training:
My next scheduled obedience course isn't until March. However, if you can get 3 or more friends together I'll schedule you in for obedience training when it suits you.
$660 per person.
Each session is approx 2-3 hours in duration.
Send me a message when you've got some friends lined up :)

Your dogs and the heat: How hot is too hot to walk your dog; and what other things should we know. Please read in full :...
18/11/2024

Your dogs and the heat: How hot is too hot to walk your dog; and what other things should we know. Please read in full :)

First of all the science:
Before we debate how hot is too hot, let's understand a little about our dogs in order to understand the answer.
First, dogs are not like us. They don't regulate heat in the same way. For them, the two main ways they release heat are: through panting; and through the paws of their feet.
This means the issue isn't just about burning their paws (which is a big reason why people turn to bo**ies and think they've solved the problem), the issue is ensuring the dog has the ability to cool down through their paws and their mouth.

So now consider two scenarios:
A dog who has a muzzle on that's incorrectly fitted. This dog will overheat rapidly regardless of what the temperature is. Why? Because a correctly fitted muzzle should allow the entire dog's mouth to open inside the muzzle, thus allowing it to pant and regulate heat. An incorrectly fitted muzzle will not allow the dog's mouth to open, and thus the dog cannot open-mouth-pant and therefore will be unable to regulate their temperature.

Next:
A dog who is wearing bo**ies. Well-meaning owners go out and think they're doing their dog a favour by buying little bo**ies that fit on their dog's feet. They do so because they've seen the pictures of burnt paw pads and they think 'oh I need to protect my little one's feet'. Again though, if you purchase the wrong type of bo**ie (ie a water proof one for winter, or a cheap one that doesn't allow breathability) then, again, regardless of temperature you've just made it incredibly difficult for your dog to regulate their body temperature regardless of the what the thermometer says, and so your dog is likely to overheat.

So what is the answer?
Generally speaking, a dog that is not heat intolerant (ie not cold-weather dogs like Malamutes, Huskies, Akita's etc); or brachyscome dogs (ie like pugs, mastiffs, boxers, frenchies) or with health issues, can be walked happily up to 24 degrees celsius. Though, be smart, you know yourself, if you hit a 24 degree day in the middle of winter after weeks of 16... the 24 feels like 30. Because you haven't acclimatised to it. It is the same for your dog. This is why when I was living in Michigan, USA, I saw a boy in shorts and a singlet going for a walk when it was only 2 degrees... because we'd just come out of weeks of -40! So, if you do hit one of those compariably warmer days in winter, understand your dog also needs time to acclimatise.

The next thing to consider is why not just when it's too hot to touch with the back of your hand. Here's why. The too-hot-for-the-back-of-your-hand- temperature is usually around the 28 degree mark. Which is higher than what I've recommended above. So why do I recommend less than this? Because it's not about your dog's paws being burnt. Yes, that's awful! But the danger isn't just in blistering paws. The danger is in the dog not being able to regulate heat. So, if you walk your dog on a surface that is warm - not talking hot, just warm- and the air is also warm, and the dog needs to cool down, they cannot. Because all they have is their panting, which is not enough. They need to be able to release that heat through their paws but with the ground being warm they can't. Hence, if you're waiting for the ground to be too hot to touch, you're actually waiting too long.

So what to do instead:
If you're where we live, summer doesn't have too many under-24-days. Sometimes not even in the evening or morning. Sometimes not even in the middle of the night.
Of course, the first suggestion will be: if you've got a day with a morning or evening of 24 or under temperature then go for a walk then. But on the days when you don't, some suggestions:

1. Use mental enrichment games ie scent tracking, snuffle mats, hide and seek, tricks, agility etc.

2. If you're blessed with a large inside area, play with them there.

3. Play in a shaded grassy area and keep play to a short duration. Follow the dog's cues and allow them to rest whenever they want. BUT do NOT assume your dog will rest when they need. Some dogs - particularly working dogs, will just keep going. It is not a myth that you can run your dog to the point they drop dead. You definitely can. Likewise if you have a sun-bathing dog like ours who would otherwise choose to lay on the boiling hot concrete and sun tan themselves for hours on end, realise just like a child who doesn't always know what's best for them, neither does your dog. Heat stroke is a real issue. And sometimes you need to be the voice of reason for your dog to tell them it's enough.

4. Provide fresh water for your dogs frequently to drink.

5. Go to mitre 10 grab one of those sandpit clam shells for $15. Fill it with water and play fetch in and out of the water with them. Side note: if you're taking your dog to the beach, bear in mind the same issues are present as sand gets extremely hot. Also, an additional note on beach going; be very mindful that playing fetch on the beach isn't always a good thing as when your dog picks up the ball, they are likely to be ingesting large amounts of sand also. This sand can cause intestinal blockages and can kill. Likewise salt content (from a wet soggy ball that's been in the waves) is also an issue.

6. If you're walking a short distance ie from your car to the shop door this is where those bo**ies do come in handy, as it's not so much about heat regulation that's the issue here as it is about short exposure to radiant heat (from the pavement/bitumen etc) which could cause burns. So throw some bo**ies on, or carry them, or a stroller, or pick the path that's shortest, most shaded and get there real quick. Do not stop to talk on the bitumen. And once inside remove the bo**ies do your dog can regulate their temperature well again.

Other facts about heat:
1. Do not leave your dog in a car. Doesn't matter if the windows are down. If it's hot, it's hotter in that car. Do not leave them.
2. Do not tie them up in the sun. Doesn't matter if it's on the grass. Tie them up where there's shade. Yes that might mean walking further, but I'm sure you wouldn't enjoy sitting out in the sun on a hot day even if there was grass under your t**h.
3. Do not leave them in an area without access to water. Dogs need access to water. And, while we're on the topic of water - remember, communal water bowls, while better than nothing if you've forgotten yours, are NOT ideal. Take your own water and water bowl.
4. For therapy dogs in settings where you are required to have your dog with you- possibly in heat-soaked areas, this is what I have always done with Pauley:
A) Asked that we do yard duty in the shaded areas. If this couldn't be catered for, then I would leave him inside and I would go and do yard duty by myself.
B) At events ie school sports day, where the sun and heat are high. I would hang out with Pauley in the grassy shaded areas. I would communicate this prior to the day, and if the school required me to be in the sun, then I would leave Pauley at home.
C) Taking Pauley into venues from the car, I would follow my above suggestions on avoiding the pavement. Bear in mind if you use bo**ies, once you are inside take them off. Your dog still needs to regulate their temperature inside also, and the bo**ies do hinder this.

On the whole, remember, heat can kill. And even if it doesn't, heat will cause discomfort. Your best friend deserves better.

06/11/2024

The type of obedience you receive from me.
New distractions ✔️
Listening skills ✔️
Knowing how to communicate in all settings ✔️
Responsiveness to voice alone ✔️

Places are open for:
March 16, 23 and 30, $660, Ararat, 9am-12pm.
Message me to secure your place.

03/11/2024

I love this video. It has all the feels of puppy training in one go. The feeling of success- YES! The losing the plot- Oh dear! And then the feeling of success again- woot.
If you would like to come along to an enjoyable (lots of laughs), educational (presentations on all things health, behaviour and development) and social (exposure to people, pups, other dogs and things), then join us at puppy school.

Sundays 9am-10am. (To beat the heat).
$50 or $190 for all 4 sessions up front.

How did you spend your Halloween.... read below to see how a past grad seized the training opportunity! "I took the oppo...
03/11/2024

How did you spend your Halloween.... read below to see how a past grad seized the training opportunity!

"I took the opportunity of all the people coming to the front door to get all the dogs to sit quietly. They often run and bark at the front door as they are so excited for visitors so it was great to spend 2.5 hours reinforcing calmness with visitors!"

Go Kat! You little legend!

Next available obedience course March 16, 23 and 30, $660, Ararat.

Snake advice: What to do: Last night I posted on the topic of snake vs dog training and promised a "what you can do" pos...
28/10/2024

Snake advice: What to do:
Last night I posted on the topic of snake vs dog training and promised a "what you can do" post. So here it is! If you missed last night's post go back and have a read, but for now enjoy some tips on how to minimise your pet's risk:

1) Make your yard less snake attractive. This includes:
- Keeping grass cut short.
- Removing debris, tin, wood piles, rubbish, rocks etc. Anything that could be used as a snake shelter.
- Making sure all paths are clear so you can see where you are walking.
- Keep in mind certain plants are great for snakes- particularly those that provide low to the ground coverage (ie an agapantha bush). A snake could be living here, or passing through and your dog's nose is not seen as a welcome intrusion for the snake. Again try to minimise the amount of coverage snakes could like/use.
- Store any firewood away from the house.

2) Minimising access to water. Snakes need to drink. Your beautiful outdoor pond, or dog's water bowl can be a source of water for snakes which bring them into your yard.

3) Reduce food sources outside (ie chicken eggs, compost piles etc). These bring mice, mice bring snakes. So too with ponds that bring frogs. Frogs bring snakes. Clean up any spilled food, fruit or bird seed, which also attract mice and therefore snakes.

4) Walk your dog on a lead during summer and minimise the amount of sniffing time you allow on your walks. Dogs are most often bitten on walks when they are sniffing around in bushes etc. The snake sees them as a threat, the dog sees or sometimes doesn't even see them, but their nose poking in the snake's business isn't welcomed and is often met with a bite to their face or limbs.

5) Limit outdoor time in the evening- Snakes are most active at the end of the day when the weather has started to cool. Also limit outdoor time at night as a lot of snakes prefer to be active at this time rather than during the day.

6) Get some Guinea Fowl- these birds aren't a magic formula to having no snakes, instead what they can do is alert you to their presence, and help you to know to keep your furry friends inside. (They shriek and carry on, running over to the snake and often pecking it until it leaves/dies).

7) This one is a bit sceptical. Some trainers encourage not playing with rope toys- or other snake-like toys. I'm not sold on this advice- I believe dogs are smart enough to know the difference between a rope and a snake. Nevertheless, erring on the side of caution is never a bad thing.

8) Teach your dog to follow your commands. This can save their lives in more than just a snake scenario. When Pauley had a brown snake in his mouth a few years ago (yes, you read right- in his mouth), he was thrashing it around his head like a whip. I yelled “Pauley, leave” at the top of my lungs, at which point he let go of the snake - which then flew through the air. I then yelled “sit”, to which he did. I inspected the snake- it was dead- then disposed of the snake (be aware, just because they’re dead, doesn’t mean they aren’t deadly! They can still kill your pet and you if their fangs scratch them etc). And then promptly took him to the vet. He was fine and luckily wasn't bitten. I have also received several messages of thankful owners after attending my 3 day obedience course who saw a snake and were able to call their dogs back and away.

9) If your dog was near a snake, and you’re not sure if they were bitten or not- TAKE. THEM. TO. THE. VET. Better safe than sorry. At the very least they’ll keep them for observation. Waiting for a dog to show symptoms is akin to waiting for your dog to start the process of dying. Bear in mind, many of our snakes cause delayed symptoms in dogs (ie the dog doesn't show signs until hours later); many also cause the dog to crash, then "bounce back" as though they have recovered, until to crash again later. It is important to take your dog to a vet if you even suspect a snake interaction has occurred.

10) Don’t suck the wound.

11) If your dog isn’t with the snake, but they’ve seen it and won’t leave it alone- get your hose. Douse the dog in water to break its attention and get them away from it. Do not do this if your dog is with the snake as it can cause them to lose focus and get bitten, but if they're not physically near it yet, this is the time to use the hose.

12) You don’t need to bring the snake into the vets! They now have a one size fits all antivenom. If you wish (and it's safe to do so) you can take a photo of the snake, but don't risk yourself just to get the photo.

13) Do not let your dog examine dead snakes as they still have venomous fangs. Also, the snake may not be dead. Some snakes can stay extremely still even when danger is nearby.

14) Know the symptoms. You may not have seen the snake, or seen the interaction between dog and snake. You may only see the results. Know the symptoms:
Severe lethargy
Collapse
Shaking or twitching
Dilated pupils or difficulty blinkning
Vomiting
Loss of bladder or bowel control
Blood in urine
Ataxia (loss of function of body movements) which could be seen as difficulty walking
Breathing difficulties (rapid and shallow)
Excessive salivation (drooling)
Bleeding from snake bite wound
Paralysis or Collapse
Coma or death
"Bouncing back" (as mentioned above the dog goes downhill rapidly, then seems to recover. During this recovery period is it crucial you take them to the vet. If it is a snake bite they will collapse again and this time likely die).

15) If your dog has been bitten:
A) Most importantly, keep calm yourself and control your own emotions.
B ) Make sure it’s safe. Snake is dead or gone. Dog is with you.
C) Keep your dog still and calm as possible and reduce stimulus around him. Lift him up and carry him to the car. Put him in the car. This restricts movement. Don't like him walk to the car. If you can, have a passenger hold him in the car also to stop any unrequired movement.
D) Remove people who will make the situation worse.
E) Do NOT wash the wound; Do NOT apply a tourniquet, Do NOT apply ice or alcohol or bleed the wound. These approaches do not work and you are just wasting time.
F) NEVER try to catch or kill the snake yourself. If you can SAFELY get a photo of the snake, then do so, otherwise leave it.
G) Call the vet as you are taking them to it. Let them know you’re coming and that you think your dog has been bitten.
H) Get them to the vet. Carry them - rather than walk them- inside if you can.

16) A pretty drastic measure is to only allow your dog outside on lead during the spring/summer months. Bear in mind, this is a fairly extreme method, however for some people - people who've lost a dog to snake bite, who live near a reserve/ creek where snake activity will be high no matter what you do, it's understandable.

17) It goes without saying, do not try to touch, pick up, remove, relocate or kill a snake. Call your local snake catcher. Put your pets and children inside/away from the snake, try to keep an eye on where it goes, but don't chase or try to stop it. Most people are bitten when they try to interact with a snake rather than calling a professional.

Image is not mine. You can find it here
https://www.britannica.com/animal/brown-snake

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Another clip showing what our dogs learnt to do in just 3 days. Stay in their sit or drop while we left them and went and patted all the other dogs (a hard one for dogs who might have a bit of FOMO or jealousy 🤣). The other part of this is to look at all the other dogs receiving pats and love calmly without jumping or getting overly excited. Another skill they've learnt in 3 days.

Today was a busy morning. In 3 days this is what our dogs learnt how to do. Could any of them do it at the start? 😂 Actually, they did literally laugh at me when I told them what they'd be doing. Yet here they are... doing it. Well done all.

Who should come to training? Everyone. Anyone who lives with the dog should come to training if they can. Kids. Teenagers. Partners. Grandparents. If they're living in your house they are welcome to come. Why? Because it's so much easier to train your dog to listen to everyone if everyone is on the same page. Also, because I think it's an important part of owning a pet- that the whole family see it as their responsibility, including kids. Learning respect for animals starts when we teach our kids to be responsible for what's in our home. So if you can, I'd love to see the whole family at all of my training courses- be that agility, obedience, or puppy school. If it's a bit difficult to get everyone there, then what I usually ask is for everyone to come to at least the first one, as that's the most important in terms of information understanding. If you can get to the first one together as a family that will be awesome. My next availiable courses for 2025 are: January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660 March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500* April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660 July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions) Agility Training - every Sunday, $20 *other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100. Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

What do I get for your $660 obedience course? $660 is a lot of money. I know it. So here's what you get from it and why I charge it: 1. Unlike other training courses you may attend weekly for months, if not years on end and still end up with a dog that half listens, this training course is 3 half days in length and at the end, if you follow the instructions, do your homework, and remain consistent you'll come away with a dog that listens even in the midst of the most intense distractions and situations. 2. Unlike other training courses where when you get your next pup you're signing up to do the course again, this training course teaches you everything you need to be able to train any future or current other dogs. Of course, you're welcome to come back with future dogs, but you'll also have the skills not to need to. And if you do come back you're only needing to pay $200 for the course because I'm assuming you do already know everything from the first time you did it. 3. Now onto what you can expect from your dog. Essentially this course is different from all other courses as it doesn't teach arbitrary commands like sit, stay, come (oh don't worry they'll learn those) rather it teaches you a language system to communicate with your dog. Why is this better? It means you have the ability to tell your dog what you want them to do in any new situation without having to teach them prior. Ie: Taking them on a new walk and don't want them to go too far? You'll have the skills to communicate this. Moved into a new home and don't want them to go into certain rooms or run out the gate, you'll have the language to let them know. One family member likes the dog to jump on them but you don't, you'll be able to let the dog know when it's OK to jump and when it's not. Having visitors over who are scared of dogs? You'll be able to ensure your dog doesn't go near them, thus ensuring your guest feels secure. Have a dog who often steals things from the bench? Again, yo

All of these dogs were pullers... 3 days later they're walking like this. :) My next availiable courses for 2025 are: January 6-9, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 March 16, 23 and 30, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660 March 17-20 Assistance Dog Boot Camp, $2,500* April 14-17, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 May 11, 18 and 25, Obedience, 9am-12pm, $660 July 7-10, Therapy dog, 9am-4pm, $2000 Puppy School - every Sunday, $190 (for 4 sessions) Agility Training - every Sunday, $20 *other options exist for me to help train your assistance dog, these start from as low as $100. Please reach out for more information or to book a place in any of my courses.

Teaching our dogs to walk on a loose lead even for a child. :) Taught during my 3 day course and 5 day therapy dog course. Get a group of 3 friends or more and I'll make an obedience course for you. $660 per person. Otherwise, my next obedience dates are March 16, 23 and 30, 9am-12pm, $660, Ararat. Message to secure your place.

The type of obedience you receive from me. New distractions ✔️ Listening skills ✔️ Knowing how to communicate in all settings ✔️ Responsiveness to voice alone ✔️ Places are open for: March 16, 23 and 30, $660, Ararat, 9am-12pm. Message me to secure your place.

I love this video. It has all the feels of puppy training in one go. The feeling of success- YES! The losing the plot- Oh dear! And then the feeling of success again- woot. If you would like to come along to an enjoyable (lots of laughs), educational (presentations on all things health, behaviour and development) and social (exposure to people, pups, other dogs and things), then join us at puppy school. Sundays 9am-10am. (To beat the heat). $50 or $190 for all 4 sessions up front.

Don't be fooled... I didn't just do agility and puppy school today. I also ran my last obedience course for the year in the morning. Check out the recall on these guys :) Top tip: if you're not already, start playing hide and seek with your dog :) It builds fun, anticipation, excitement and is a brilliant way to make recall training enjoyable and reinforced for all. My next available obedience course is March 16, 23 and 30. $660. 9am-12pm. *Book now. My next available therapy dog course is January 6-9, 9am-4pm. $2000. *Book now. Agility training runs this year until December 22, 9.30am. $20 a session. *Book now. Puppy school runs this year until December 22, 9am. $50 a session or $190 for all four sessions. *Book now.

Another one of our agility participants showing their at home practise :) how awesome, Jem and Chaz!!! :) I LOVE it ❤️. If you have kids who love their dog, agility training is a fantastic way to get them involved and invested in their four legged friend. Agility training is 9.30am Sunday mornings. $20 a session or $150 for 10. Open to dogs of all ages. Puppy school is at 9am-10am Sunday mornings. $50 a session or $190 for all four sessions.

Little Rusty wasn't here for our agility competition today... however suffice to say I think he would've won our pushing the ball forward and into a goal competition. Well done, Rusty and Elise for your work at home!! Agility training is Sundays at 9.30am. $20.

It was a busy day today. Obedience training in the morning, agility and puppy school in the afternoon. The below video shows our dogs choosing to listen to us rather than go see their friends who are in close proximity. Well done all.

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