Canine Capers Dog Training

05/08/2025

Why I am fine with my dogs not liking many other dogs!

Where your dog gets their reinforcement is where they will seek future reinforcement. If your dog gets most of their physical and emotional needs from playing with other dogs, you will find your relationship strained.

We see dogs in classes all of the time who can barely function, let alone learn, because they are so focused on the other dogs in class. We can immediately tell the dogs that have been conditioned to get over-stimulated at the sight of another dog.

They are so focused on the other dogs, they are often completely unaware of the handler on the other end of the leash. If you can't get your dog to redirect focus back to you and their whole world is about nothing but the other dog, you're success in training will be limited and your relationship with your dog could be one of frustration rather than joy.

My 4 Rules of Dog Play

1. I MUST KNOW AND TRUST THE OTHER DOG
My dogs are part of my family and my sports partners. I adore my dogs and I also put a lot of time and effort into my dogs - with hundreds of hours of training, daily care, health care, mental stimulation, etc.

I work hard to provide my dogs with everything they need to be well-rounded, upstanding canine citizens. I'm NEVER going to willingly take a chance that a random encounter with a dog I don't know undoes any or all of that work. It's simply not worth the risk to me.

2. THE OTHER DOG MUST BE FRIENDLY

This seems obvious, right? Who would allow their dogs to play with dogs who aren't friendly?
Most people will agree with this rule, but how do you know if you don't know the dog very well? Random dogs on the street may appear friendly until they don't. Countless times, I've heard well-meaning people give bad advice about socializing aggressive dogs at the local off leash park.

It's a commonly suggested tactic - if he's aggressive, allow him to work it out by throwing him into play with other dogs. First, this is definitely NOT the way to solve aggression issues. Second, I'm sure none of us want our dogs to be the brunt of such an experiment.

I must feel confident that those dogs I let mine interact with are going to be safe companions for mine. No questions.

3. THEY MUST MATCH MY DOG'S PLAY STYLE

Some dogs like to wrestle, some run like the wind and others like to body slam. Mismatched play styles at running speeds can cause injury quickly.

Imagine a dog running as fast as possible and body slamming another dog. Imagine a dog who loves to wrestle trying to pin a dog who prefers to run and be chased. Mismatched play styles can cause injury, frustration or fights quickly in the right conditions.

This should also include shapes and sizes of dogs. A small dog can ignite prey drive in a larger dog and that can spell disaster. Even without that danger, a misplaced paw from a Great Dane can accidentally kill a toy breed. Caution should always be taken when dealing with the extremes in dog sizes. As cute as it may be to watch a Mastiff playing with a Yorkie, the inherent risks are much higher.

4. THEY MUST BE UNDER GOOD VOICE CONTROL

This, I consider an absolute must. Outside of a Puppy Class during the critical socialization period, I don't allow any play with dogs who can't be stopped or called out of play immediately by voice alone.

Situations can change quickly when dogs are playing. If one dog is starting to get overstimulated or frutstrated, it's very important to be able to quickly recognize that and stop the play immediately with your voice. Then you can make the dogs take a break to calm the stimulation down. That could be the difference between a great play session and one that ends in a fight.

Remembering that play and exposure are very different things, once your dog is over the critical socialization period, there is NO TRUE NEED FOR THEM TO PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS, but there are some benefits. Good exercise and fun are among those benefits, but you must consider all things when deciding about dog play.

With a few rules and some caution, you can reap the benefits of play without the dangers.

29/07/2025

“Don’t Do That!”, But What Can the Dog Do?
Why Saying ‘No’ Isn’t Enough in Dog Training

Let’s be honest, most of us are experts at telling our dogs what not to do.

“Don’t jump!”
“Stop barking!”
“Leave that!”
“Oi! Get off the sofa!”
“Don’t pull!”
“Don’t eat that poo!”

Sound familiar?

It’s like we’ve become the party-poopers at the canine carnival, constantly shouting “No!” as if that word alone will unlock some divine understanding of what we actually want our dogs to do. But here’s the rub: dogs aren’t mind readers. (If they were, the fridge would have been emptied and the postman permanently traumatised years ago.)

And herein lies the problem.

We’re incredibly skilled at identifying and reacting to behaviours we don’t like, but far less proficient at clearly communicating what we do want instead. This creates an information void. And in that void? Confusion, frustration, conflict… and eventually, a poisoned “No.”

The Problem with “No” on Repeat

Let’s break it down. Imagine you’ve just started a new job. You’re sat at your desk, trying to figure out what’s expected of you. You send an email, your manager barks, “Don’t do that!” So you try making a phone call, “No, not that either!” You open a spreadsheet, “Definitely not that!” And all the while, you’re sitting there wondering, Well what the hell am I supposed to be doing then?

That’s how your dog feels.

If every interaction is a correction without direction, your dog becomes unsure, hesitant, and possibly anxious. They might test other behaviours to try and please you, or they might shut down altogether. And over time, “No” stops being a useful interrupter and starts being interpreted as, “You’re always wrong.”

The “No” Becomes Poisoned

In the early stages of training, “No” should simply mark an unwanted behaviour, not punish the dog, not shame them, and certainly not scare them. But if it’s used constantly, without follow-up guidance or a clear alternative, it becomes a sound the dog associates with negativity… or worse, with you. They learn to tune it out or brace themselves for conflict. Either way, the communication between human and dog starts to fray.

Dogs thrive on clarity, structure, and understanding. Without those, they don’t see you as a reliable leader, they see you as unpredictable, inconsistent, and hard to please.

So What Should We Do Instead?

Here’s the golden rule:

Don’t just tell the dog what not to do, show them what to do instead.
And make it worth their while.

We’re not saying “No” is bad. It’s essential that dogs learn boundaries and that there are certain behaviours that aren’t acceptable. But unless we balance that with clear, consistent alternatives, the dog is left to guess. And they’re usually wrong. (Sorry, Fido.)

Examples:
• Don’t pull on the lead?
Great. But have you shown your dog where you want them to walk, what pace you expect, and rewarded them heavily when they get it right?
• Don’t jump on people?
Super. But have you taught a reliable ‘sit to greet’ behaviour and consistently reinforced calm greetings with praise or treats?
• Don’t steal from the worktop?
Fine. But have you provided a solid “Place” command, or redirected their nosey habits with food puzzles and structured activities?
• Don’t chew the sofa?
Fair. But have you given them an outlet for that need to gnaw, such as a frozen Kong, a beef tendon, or something more constructive than the arm of your IKEA furniture?

Think in Pairs: “You Can’t Do That, But You Can Do This”

Here’s a handy little mental exercise: every time you correct or interrupt your dog, ask yourself, “What can I offer instead?”

Let’s turn your “No” into a two-part sentence:
• “No, you can’t jump on visitors. But yes, you can sit nicely and get a biscuit.”
• “No, you can’t bark out the window all day. But yes, you can lie on your mat and chew your toy.”
• “No, you can’t pull ahead. But yes, you can walk beside me and sniff when I cue you to do so.”

Dogs aren’t trying to wind you up. They’re simply navigating a human world with canine instincts. If we give them nothing but barriers, they’ll eventually stop trying to engage. But if we offer structure, direction, and positive reinforcement, they’ll not only get it, they’ll want to do it.

Communication, Not Condemnation

Training is a conversation, not a lecture. It’s about back-and-forth understanding. The clearer we are, the more confident our dogs become. And confident dogs? They’re calmer, more focused, and much more fun to live with.

So next time your instinct is to shout “No!”, take a breath and ask yourself:
• “Have I taught the dog what I actually want?”
• “Have I practised it enough in a low-distraction environment?”
• “Have I made that behaviour rewarding enough to make it worth their effort?”

If the answer’s “No,” then maybe it’s not the dog that needs correcting. Maybe it’s the plan.

Final Thoughts

If dogs could talk, some of them would probably say,
“Look, mate, I’m not being naughty, I’m just winging it because no one gave me a flipping manual.”

So, let’s stop making “No!” our first, middle, and final training tool. Let’s start showing our dogs what they can do, not just what they can’t. Clarity builds confidence. Confidence builds reliability. And a confident, reliable dog? That’s a joy to live with.

Now off you pop, go teach your dog something useful… like how not to photobomb your Zoom meetings.
www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

26/07/2025

24/07/2025

These dogs really are everywhere.
They are often mislabeled as friendly by the guardian/owner as that is how they are seen by them.....They barge right in to "play" with other dogs the second the lead is taken off, before then they are straining, bursting out of their skin to get to whatever they are desiring at the time....and allowing dogs to do this is half the issue.

This behaviour has been rewarded by the "play" and fun of interacting.....Why would they behave any other way around other dogs?
They are not friendly.
Dogs do not consider these dogs friendly either.
Why?
These dogs take no time to assess the situation, their energy is off the charts and they immediately assert themselves into play, and demand interaction from other dogs.

They cannot read cues, or they completely ignore them when given by other dogs.
Reading other dogs play styles is non existent.
Focusing on you or redirecting is impossible.
There is absolutely no impulse control or emotional self regulation.

These dogs are often seen at a dog park running from dog to dog in a hyper aroused state and they often have an almost manic appearance, all of this causes fights, injury, stress and is a direct causation of reactivity occurring in either dog.

I have used the term "socialisation" but socialisation is NOT play....it never was....it is about calmly accepting other dogs exist through controlled exposure.
That calmness allows self regulation, allows reading cues from others and impulse control is practiced.
As a society we have a twisted view that socialisation means dogs play with all other dogs....and they should get on.
The reality of TRUE socialisation is the opposite.

If you do have a dog that has these issues...you can help (but if you reach out to a good behaviour modification trainer, you will save yourself years and years of issues).

Teach engagement with you in ever increasing distractions.
Practice and learn calmness....it is a skill.
Manage the environment for calm and limited exposure at a distance....and reward calm.
Praise and reward when they look away from the other dogs....that IS praise worthy.
Mental enrichment with these dogs helps everything.
Learn the body language of your dog (and others).

You are not alone in struggling with this behaviour, it is very common.
Take a chance that your dog CAN behave in a different way, they just need to be shown how by you or a great trainer.

Limit where and when they can practice this behaviour......and most important dog parks and meeting endless other dogs will do nothing but fuel all of this behaviour.

20/07/2025

14/06/2025

DOGS DO NOT NEED A 'PACK LEADER!'

This is me with a wolf in 2009. The photo was taken at Wolf Park in Indiana when I attended a dog behavior seminar presented by the late Dr. Ray Coppinger. I have also attended educational programs and volunteered at the International Wolf Center (IWC) in Ely, Minnesota.

The IWC was founded by wildlife biologist and wolf researcher, Dr. L. David Mech. I completed a graduate level course in wolf ethology at St. Thomas University in Minnesota with a practicum at the IWC, so have had experience with wolves as well as formal and information education about their behavior.

For the past 15 years, since being on Facebook, I have been trying to educate people about the difference between wolf and dog behavior. Finally, it seems the outdated idea that dogs are 'pack animals' that need an 'alpha' and a 'pack leader' is fading.

But, not entirely! Recently, I have heard several people refer to that old myth as if it were truth. So disappointing. We live in the Information Age, and yet there seems to be a problem with getting people updated.

I get weary of revisiting this, but here goes. Dogs are not 'pack animals.' They are scavengers, foragers, and opportunists. Although dogs and wolves share a common ancestor, dogs are ethologically different from their wolf cousins.

Only wolves can be described as true 'pack animals.' There is more that goes into the definition of 'pack' than simply hanging out in a group. For example, adult male wolves regurgitate for pups that are part of their pack, and the whole pack of wolves works as a team - in hunting and survival in general.

So, while it's true that wolves are pack animals, they do not have an 'alpha,' except in captive, unrelated groups of wolves. Non-captive wolves are comprised of a family unit with the parent wolves being what we call the breeding or mating pair. They are not 'alphas.'

In captive packs of wolves, which are usually comprised of unrelated wolves, a hierarchy needs to be worked out, so an alpha female and an alpha male will emerge.

The idea of dogs being pack animals originated with studies on captive wolves in a Swiss Zoo. Rudolph Schenkel studied wolves in a zoo in the 1930s and 1940s - almost 100 years ago, in an attempt to define the social behavior of wolves.

In 1947, he published a paper, “Expressions Studies on Wolves," in which he drew parallels between dogs and wolves, in discussions about how wolves vie for dominance within the pack.

The problem is, he was observing CAPTIVE wolves, an entirely different scenario than a non-captive pack.

I have seen this behavior firsthand, how captive wolves work out a pack structure, and how that structure can change any time there is a change in the pack membership or the health status of any one member.

The problem with parroting this old meme, that dogs are 'pack animals' who need a 'pack leader,' and to train a dog you need to be the 'alpha,' is that it is all based on bad science. The best we had at the time, but we know better now.

In the name of being the 'alpha' or 'pack leader,' horrendous methods and tools have been used to train and modify behavior in dogs. For example, the infamous, 'alpha roll.' People still do this! If I had a nickel for every dog with aggression someone has told me they alpha rolled to gain dominance, I could retire today!

When wolves and dogs roll on their back they are displaying deference to the animal in front of them or standing over them. The animal is not being actively rolled! We can get ourselves into a lot of trouble when we try to act like canines! Dogs are smarter than that, and all we do when trying to act like the 'alpha' is frighten and confuse the animal. Worse case scenario, the dog becomes more aggressive.

Let me be clear, I do not deny the existence of dominance in the animal world. Dominance exists. It can appropriately be used to describe the relationship between any two animals. The animal that maintains ownership of preferred resources is said to be dominant over the one who does not.

For example, my late dog Ginger, was definitely dominant over my larger dog, Opal.

It is improper to describe any dog as dominant because dominance is only correctly used to describe a relationship, not a personality. A dog who is dominant over another may not be dominant in another dog-dog relationship.

Dog training is based on science, and science is important because it requires that we continually re-evaluate our beliefs to see if what we think we know and understand, is still valid. Science asks questions, and as dog owners and trainers, we should do the same.

Please let go of the outdated idea that dogs are pack animals that need to be dominated. Training based in behavior science gets far better results without harming your dog or your relationship with your dog.

Cindy Ludwig, Canine Connection LLC
Voted Best Springfield Missouri Dog Trainer

11/06/2025

Your Dog’s Behaviour Isn’t Broken, But the Puzzle Might Be

Training a dog isn’t about fixing a problem, it’s about solving a puzzle. Not one of those quick five-minute ones with 12 giant pieces and a picture of a cartoon duck, either. No, dog training is more like piecing together a 5,000-piece jigsaw of the Scottish Highlands in a snowstorm. Tricky, layered, and deeply satisfying when done right.

Every dog is a puzzle made up of unique, interlocking pieces, genetics, lifestyle, history, health, environment, and mental wellbeing. And when one or more of those pieces doesn’t quite fit, it often shows up as what we humans like to call “problem behaviour”.

Chewing the sofa, barking at shadows, lunging at squirrels, pulling on the lead like it’s towing a caravan, all of these are signals that the picture isn’t quite coming together.

🧩 Piece 1: Genetics – It’s in the Dog’s DNA

You can’t train a Collie to ignore movement any more than you can train a Labrador to dislike food. Breed matters. If your dog was born to herd, guard, hunt, or chase, it’s not being naughty when it does just that, it’s being a dog. The key is learning how to channel those instincts in a way that works with you, not against you.

🧩 Piece 2: Biological Needs – Food, Sleep, and the Loo

A hungry dog is a distracted dog. A tired dog is often a grumpy one. And a dog that hasn’t had a proper wee? Best of luck with your training session. Basic needs must be met before you can expect focus or calm behaviour. Nutrition, sleep, exercise, and regular toilet breaks aren’t extras, they’re essentials.

🧩 Piece 3: The Environment – Home Life and Hustle

Dogs are shaped by the world they live in. Chaotic households, inconsistent routines, under-stimulating environments, or overstimulating ones, all have an impact. Think of your dog’s daily surroundings as either puzzle glue or a sledgehammer. Set them up for success with structure, routine, and opportunities for calm exploration.

🧩 Piece 4: The Mind – Past Training and Present Emotions

Anxious, overstimulated, or confused dogs often behave “badly” not because they’re misbehaving, but because they don’t know what else to do. Many dogs are reacting, not misbehaving. Their brain says “I don’t feel safe or settled” so they bark, bolt, or bite. Address the emotion, not just the behaviour.

So, What’s the Solution?

Stop yanking at the corner pieces hoping they’ll magically fit. Instead, step back and look at the whole picture. Ask yourself:
• Am I meeting my dog’s biological and psychological needs?
• Do I understand what my dog was bred to do?
• Am I providing clear boundaries and meaningful outlets?
• Am I reinforcing the behaviours I want or just reacting to the ones I don’t?

Dog training isn’t a quick fix, nor should it be. It’s about aligning instinct with instruction, nature with nurture, and behaviour with balance. And yes, sometimes it’s about realising that the dog chewing your slipper isn’t broken, he’s just trying to tell you he needs something more than another “No!”

Training should be a journey of teamwork, not a power struggle. When all the pieces fit, you don’t just get a well-behaved dog, you get a calm, confident, content companion.

And who doesn’t want that?
www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

31/05/2025

There's something truly special about watching a dog light up when they catch a scent.

Scent detection has been at the heart of my dog training journey, and it's been an incredible ride. Seeing dogs grow in confidence and have fun using their noses keeps me inspired every day.

It's not just about the training—it's about the bond we build with our dogs, the trust we share, and the joy we find together.

Beccy Evans is the scent detection expert in Medicine Hat, helping dogs find their true sniffing superpower.