Paw it Forward

09/25/2023

07/31/2023

04/22/2023

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We at CoolTides take great pride in our pedigrees, breeding for: health, temperament and longevity.

04/12/2023

Still a few pups available to new homes!

04/11/2023

CoolTides Portuguese WaterDogs in Ontario, Canada

03/03/2023

I think everyone could probably gain something by reading this!!

From Becky Rupert - I've been a trainer for over 20 years. I wrote this for my personal page and will include here for you. But the brief, daycare isn't a great place for dogs and the unease that builds there bleeds over into all other areas of life and can present as the behaviors you're seeing. The video that went with my post was a man with malinois pups biting a bite sleeve on his arm while he pulled back on their collars. And while you aren't building drive persay with what you are describing daycares can and they make dogs very uncomfortable especially working dogs. I touch on it below.

(I posted this on my personal page and thought I'd share here as well. It mostly pertains to training clients, but watch what you're doing because it may apply to you too!)
I watch this video and I have to chuckle...

This guy is building "drive" in working dogs. Dogs that will eventually go to police departments. Dogs that "bite" people or "hold" them until the handler gets there. I love watching what these guys do with the pups to get them ready for their future careers.

So why do I chuckle?

Because almost every single person that contacts me for training, or has a dog that is reactive or has a dog that has bit someone...does almost EXACTLY what this guy is doing! The difference is this guy knows he's building drive and knows what to do with it when he gets there. Pet dog owners have no idea what to do and end up with dogs that bite people or bite other dogs...or go to the dog park or daycare and are shocked when their dog puts holes in another dog.

And they tell me...

-But I used a harness so he wouldn't gag!!! That other trainer said harnesses were the BEST! Harnesses are gentle!

-I took him to the dog park daily. He was SOOO tired that night!
It was great! He played for HOURS.

-I took him to puppy classes and let him play with all the other puppies so he would LOVE other dogs! He was soooo EXCITED to go there each week! He barked the whole way there he loved it so much!

-I walked him and we visited other dogs/people on walks just like that guy said! 100 dogs and 100 people before he was xyz age! He only pulled because he was SO EXCITED and that guy said my dog would surely be "well socialized!"

And then the puppy bites the pant legs and the person pulls and yells and backs away...and the puppy loves it. The puppy gets amped up. The puppy bites more while the person screams NO, NO, NO, BAD! Then the person starts to pull at the leg and push at the puppy (watch the video some more).

These pet dog owners do an EXCELLENT job of creating frustration and building drive. I mean if I were looking to train working dogs I'd probably hire them!

But they aren't trying to create working dogs...they are trying to create sweet family pets that quietly greet people, don't bite people and calmly pass other dogs and people on walks.

So what's a pet owner to do????

STOP using harnesses, which act to encourage pulling and thus encourage frustration and build drive.

STOP taking your dog to dog parks and doggie daycares (STOP, STOP, STOP), which encourage out of control play, build frustration and are a breeding grounds for creating reactive and fearful dogs. You taking them isn't being kind. I promise. It's one of my most common themes in the daily emails I get desperately asking for help for their reactive dog.

STOP letting your dog greet every single person, every single dog, and get wound up about visiting others on walks. It's okay to not say HI to everyone! I promise!

STOP letting your dog set the tone in your house by biting you and ripping at your clothes. Or do driveby bites and nips.

That is unless you know what to do with that drive. That is unless you are working to create a working dog. That is unless you want a dog that is over the top.

But I'm guessing you don't...you probably want what 99.8% of pet dog owners want...a calm, peaceful, happy dog.

So...

START consistently reinforcing the behavior you want...a calm and relaxed dog that lays quietly beside you. That greets guests then goes and lays down.

START leash walking and training your dog and ask them to be focused on YOU when they see other people and dogs. I let my dog maybe greet 1 out of 10 people. The rest of the people we see?? I walk by and have my dog focus on me or engage with ME.

START allowing OCCASIONAL playdates with 1 or 2 other dogs, but interrupt the play when it gets too wound up and rough. And that might mean that GASP you'll leash your dog and make them lay down and NOT play with the other dog. Or leave when it gets too rough...just like I'd do with my kids.

START putting your dog on a leash in the house if they are setting the tone by constantly biting at you. If your dog is on a leash you can easily stop a run and nip and instead have them lay down and reinforce laying down. Too wound up still? Walk them to the crate and let them unwind without reinforcing biting.

START reinforcing your dog for laying calmly by your side and yes, sometimes that means the dog is in a crate laying beside you or on a leash to help coach the behavior you want.

If people did the above...I wouldn't have many training clients. I wouldn't get the emails about dogs biting people (no joke...I get them every single day) and I'd not have people desperate to know how to stop their reactive dog from embarrassing them on walks.

20 years ago this stuff was common sense. Now...? We all want to be indulgent to our dogs. And while a Golden retriever might be able to handle all of the above and still be a sweet golden, a working dog (read almost any dog from the working group, terriers, herding dogs) or a dog that was bred to bite can't unless you know what to do with that drive. And chances are...YOU DON'T.

Folks, stop being silly and either stop building drive or get a golden.

PS. If I could "prescribe" dogs...I would "prescribe" goldens for almost everyone.

Aleix Hodges https://www.facebook.com/LoganHausKennels/videos/1429911347380754/

02/28/2023

Training Without Conflict® Podcast Episode Seventeen: Susan GarrettA few weeks ago I released a podcast challenging the rhetoric of the force free ideology. ...

09/20/2022

Ever noticed those slits at the sides of a dog’s nose? Why do dogs have them?

Once again, nature proves her elegance in the design of our dogs. When we humans inhale and exhale, air comes in the same way it goes out. Any smells that come in through our mouths are forced out as we exhale.

When a dog exhales through his nose, however, the exhaled air is released through those slits and off to the side so that nice, smelly air going into the dog’s nostrils doesn’t get diluted with the outgoing air. Put another way, the slits allow the dog to avoid smelling what he just exhaled.

The slits help the dog hold scent particles in the nostrils even as exhaled air passing out the slits creates a swirling air turbulence allowing interesting odors to be inhaled directly into the centre of each nostril. Since dogs breathe faster when trying to sniff a certain smell, they widen their nostrils to pull in more air which makes it possible for a dog searching for smells to have a steady stream of air coming in for up to 40 seconds, maybe even longer.

The slits also allow dogs to wiggle each nostril independently which gives them the ability to know which nostril a smell entered. This is how a dog can pinpoint where a smell is coming from, and why a dog searching for smells on the ground will weave back and forth as he follows a trail.

We all know the superb smelling abilities of dogs, but let’s use an analogy between scent and sight to really put it into perspective: What we as humans can see at a third of a mile, our dog can see more than 3,000 miles away and still see as well.

01/24/2022

Are Dogs Playing or Fighting? How to Evaluate Rough Play

By AKC Staff
May 09, 2019 | 3 Minutes

socialization
communication
play
bite inhibition

If two dogs are wrestling and it seems too rough to you, with all that growling and snarling, body-slamming, and biting of each other’s necks, should you intervene? How can you tell if dogs are playing or fighting?

This is normal dog play. Puppies play with their littermates constantly. From around two weeks, when their eyes open, until they go to their own homes, they spend almost all of their waking hours wrestling with each other. It’s a critical time for social development because it is when they learn bite inhibition and good dog manners. It is good exercise and socialization for them and fun for us to watch. But you should learn how to tell the difference between playing and a real fight when adult dogs are involved.

Behaviors that say it’s all good fun
The play bow – front end down, back end in the air. Sometimes the dog trying to initiate play will slap his front legs down on the ground repeatedly.
A big, silly open-mouthed grin.
Exaggerated, bouncy movement. The dogs are acting silly.
Loud, continuous growling and snarling; again, exaggerated. Play-growling may sound scarier than serious fighting.
The dogs voluntarily make themselves vulnerable by “falling” down and exposing their bellies and allowing themselves to be caught when playing chase. They take turns chasing each other.
They keep going back for more. Even the dog that ends up on his back doesn’t want to stop playing. They will probably take turns with most play-fighting behaviors.
Are these dogs playing or fighting
Behaviors that tell you this is not a game
The dogs’ bodies get very stiff. Hackles (the hair on a dog’s upper back) are raised. You may not be able to see this if the dog has long hair.
Closed mouth, curled lip, low warning growl.
Movements will be quick and efficient – no bouncing around, no taking turns.
Ears will be pinned flat and lips curled back and snarling. No big silly smiles.
If the dogs get into actual combat, hopefully it will be a short encounter, and the “loser” will try to leave the area. There won’t be going back for more play.
The dog is trying to get away from the other one, and her body language is not happy and bouncy. Tail is tucked. She isn’t having fun.
Tips to ensure safe dog-wrestling
Not every dog is meant for the dog park, and that’s OK. Some breeds are just quick to take offense. They may be better off playing at home with you or with a dog buddy they know well.
Don’t allow a puppy or dog to be ganged up on by other dogs. Even if she doesn’t get hurt, a bad experience with other dogs can traumatize her and cause fearfulness that will be hard to overcome.
Keep food and toys out of the picture. Most dogs are possessive of their food and their stuff. To them, it’s worth fighting for.
Eurasier puppies playing in the grass.

Have a plan for home and away
If your dog does get into a real fight, do not attempt to separate the dogs by grabbing a collar or using any part of your body. You will likely get bitten. There are safer ways to break them up.

A loud noise might distract the dogs. Keep a small air horn in your car. If a hose is available, spray their heads with water. At home, find something big and flat, like a piece of plywood or a baby gate, which can be put between the dogs.

The best way to avoid a fight is to recognize the signs of potential conflict and act quickly and calmly to separate the dogs before the situation escalates and everyone can continue having a good time

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11/22/2021

Dear Fellow Dog Lover, You're getting this email alert because you signed up on our website and asked to be notified. If you changed your mind, no…

11/21/2021

Yearly reminder…
❌ PLEASE LEAVE THEM IN THE SHOPS ❌

Their journey starts with the hides being soaked in a toxic sodium sulphide to remove the hair and fat. More chemicals are used in order to split the hide into layers which is then washed with hydrogen peroxide to give the white "pure" look and remove the rancid smell.
Now comes the pretty festive colours and the glue to form cute shapes.
They regularly cause intestinal blockages and choking. The chews go slippery when wet and are near impossible to get hold of to save a choking dog.

Visit any Healthy Pet Products location for SAFER options!

11/17/2021

Joyce O'Shea is the random winner for this week's draw! Joyce, message me your mailing information, and thanks to everyone for participating. The new Wednesday Giveaway: A White, Silver and Crystal bling beaded soft satin dog show lead is the prize! - https://www.facebook.com/pineappleleadsdogshowleads/photos/a.236828456447307/2371728622957269/

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* Like this photo, then *Share* it;
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11/02/2021

How can we ask them to be focused on us, when our minds are elsewhere?

I spend a lot of my life watching animals. Not just the puppies, though they are the current focus. But the new kitten Archie, the chickens I can see out the window, the grey squirrel and striped ground squirrel who have pretty impressive territorial arguments in a nearby maple, and pretty much any animal who lands in my line of sight.

I've been mulling over a concept from horse trainer Tom Moates (I think it was him? been mulling so long I've forgotten the original source). It is the concept that for authentic connection, for quality of conversation or relationship, for learning and listening to occur, you need to have your mind and heart where your feet are. Likewise, the animal needs their mind to be in the same place as their body.

As humans, we're shockingly good at disconnecting our minds from our physical being. Or put another way, we're really not good at truly being where we are --- and our animals both know it and pay the price.

We are also very good at missing this fundamental truth: that an animal whose mind is in a different place from their body is *not* an animal ready to think, learn or perform well, if at all. And yet we persist and insist and call them distracted. We wave food at them, and proffer toys. We buy new harnesses or leashes, attend webinars and classes, searching for a way to get our dog's attention. We drill endlessly in unnatural positions and pay them for doing this, and still . . . we say they need self control training when we restrain their bodies while their minds are with the squirrel in the tree or worried about an approaching stranger or . . .

To find the essence of connection, we need to find the truth of the answer to this question, in every moment: "Is your mind where your body is?" We need to answer that for our own selves as well for our animal companions. To find connection, we need to begin in the space where we exist with our mind and body aligned and in the same spot. Not thinking about the shopping or the last text message, or even the technicalities of what you are doing.

So here's my question: What keeps your mind in a place other than where your body is? What pulls your dog's or horse's (or any animal's) mind to somewhere other than where their feet are? How do you know? and when you know, what do you do?

I've spent a lot of time thinking this over, and checking myself over and over: "Mind & feet in the same place?" If not, why not, and adjust and align and do my best to practice every day the art of being present.

09/28/2021

I haven’t updated progress on Impa’s e collar work in a long time. Here is a real life visual for those who have heard nothing but evil about them.

09/16/2021

I particularly like the mention breaking down actions into behavior chains.

We think an action is simply 1 task, but to a dog it can be many more.

Heel for instance is at right leg + watch handler + take a step when handler walks off on left foot + stay in position so you can attend to your handlers movements + stop when handler stops + sit.

09/04/2021

The 6 Most Overlooked Fundamentals of Successful Training

By Ken Ramirez on 07/13/2018
Filed in - Ken's Letters

As a consultant, I am asked to critique training sessions, evaluate program designs, and help problem-solve. Each client presents unique challenges, whether I am helping a private client, a working dog organization, or a zoo training program, but my suggestions for improvement tend to be the same. When I evaluate students at The Ranch, or look to improve my own training, I revisit these important points time and time again.
#1: Rate of reinforcement
A high rate of reinforcement can fix many problems and improve animal performance quickly. When clients use a very thin schedule of reinforcement, I see animals that are confused or frustrated. Sometimes trainers use less reinforcement because they are trying to conserve food for later training, and sometimes trainers believe that experienced animals no longer need continuous reinforcement. When training starts to break down, however, rate of reinforcement is one of the first things I examine. I understand the need and desire to reduce reliance on food, but trainers must work hard to develop alternative reinforcers. With a concerted and purposeful effort, trainers can use a wide variety of reinforcers other than food; once established, these non-food reinforcers must be monitored and evaluated carefully to make sure that they are effective.
#2: Make training sessions fun
Sometimes trainers can become so focused on the end results of their “important” training that they, inadvertently, put too much pressure on the animal to succeed. Even when the training must be serious, like training to take a blood sample; teaching a guide dog to avoid obstacles; or training a dog to detect explosives, the trainer should keep the session fun for the animal. The session should be interesting, engaging, and reinforcing. Intersperse the harder approximations or longer durations with shorter and easier tasks that have a strong reinforcement history.
I regularly encounter trainers who lose the joy of training and transfer their tension and concern about accomplishing a critical task to their animals. No matter how serious or important the training task, making sure the animal is having fun will help the animal relax and be more successful.
#3: Enrichment and filling the void
I encourage trainers to be thoughtful about every aspect of an animal’s day...Animals are always learning, not just when we have treats and a clicker in our hands. We often pay so much attention to what occurs during a training session that we forget about what the animals are doing outside of training. Training takes up only one small part of an animal’s day. It is up to trainers to make sure that the remainder of the day is also set up to enrich the animals’ lives. Toys, feeder puzzles, putting food in interesting places, proper social structure, opportunities to rest, ability to exercise, and locations that provide comfort and shelter from the elements are just a few of the important things that must be provided to create a safe and enriching environment. If training is the only part of the day that is stimulating, then a large part of an animal’s day may be boring, which can have a huge impact on the well-being of the animal—and lead to a variety of avoidable behavioral and medical problems. I encourage trainers to be thoughtful about every aspect of an animal’s day so that its mental and social needs are met. This effort will result in a healthier, more engaged animal, better training sessions, and improved overall welfare.
#4: Core behaviors are a foundation for success
To train complex behaviors, make sure each animal has a solid foundation of fluent and regularly practiced core behaviors. These behaviors may differ for every animal and program, and can include stationing, targeting, stay/wait, recall, follow, retrieve, pick it up, drop it, push it, pull it, come closer, back up, spin, and many more.
Training fluent core behaviors is helpful in several ways. This training:

Sets up animals with the skills to learn new and more complex behaviors quickly
Helps animals learn to use new enrichment devices and solve food puzzles more easily
Enables the trainer to create variety in training sessions by interspersing easy core behaviors into a long, difficult, or otherwise predictable session
Allows trainers to adjust and fine-tune behaviors by guiding the animal into the correct position or shaping their movements. For example, an animal that has a back up cue and a hip targeting cue can get into a new position for a medical exam quickly, something that would otherwise take a long time to train.
New core behaviors can be trained easily, and they expand an animal’s repertoire quickly. These behaviors form the foundation for other behaviors. Having them in an animal’s repertoire can enhance training success.
#5: Reading the emotional body language of animals
A big part of gaining an animal’s trust and being successful as a trainer is learning to read and respond to the signals that animals exhibit.It is essential that a trainer be able to read the animal’s body language and respond to what the animal is experiencing. Although this tenet may seem obvious, I am often surprised when I see a trainer who either doesn’t know how to interpret an animal’s reactions or simply ignores what the animals is clearly indicating. A big part of gaining an animal’s trust and being successful as a trainer is learning to read and respond to the signals that animals exhibit. For example, a trainer should only give a cue when the animal shows it is paying attention and is ready to proceed. Trainers should be able to tell when an animal is tense or relaxed, hesitant or eager, excited or nervous, and that information should shape the trainer’s decisions about next steps in each session. Experienced trainers seem to discover this truth at some point in their careers. An understanding of animal body language should be one of the first things taught to new trainers because it is one of the most important keys to exceptional animal care.
#6: Communication with people
Trainers understandably focus their attention on the animal’s needs, sometimes not giving much thought to the human part of the equation. Being a successful animal trainer involves working with people, including coworkers, clients, and family members. Good training teams set clear training goals, agree on criteria, implement consistent protocols, and communicate from day to day. When communication systems are not in place and trainers or family members fail to talk about their training goals, progress, or setbacks, the animal suffers. If trainers don’t have shared expectations of the animal’s behavior, clear criteria, consistent cues, and consistent interactions from one trainer to the next, animals can receive conflicting information and find training sessions confusing and frustrating. In addition, leaders, consultants, and teachers can only be successful with employees, clients, and students if they are good communicators.
Animals come first
When trainers improve their training, and use the principles discussed above, they come closer to making the lives of animals better.There are certainly far more aspects to successful training than I have articulated here. However, I have selected these six principles because they are the most common. When I am called in as a consultant, I can usually count on one or more of these aspects being neglected or forgotten.
I believe firmly that the animal’s needs should always come first. When trainers improve their training, and use the principles discussed above, they come closer to making the lives of animals better. I am hopeful that you find this list useful, and that an idea or tip might make your training more effective.
Happy Training,

07/25/2021

Prepping a dog for muzzle holds for: clipping, eye drops, inner mouth exams.

https://youtu.be/0jvEYBiXXGs

training a dog to follow pressure and release to hold a muzzle shut for grooming.

06/19/2021

Healthy, hungry dogs eat without needing to be cajoled, but dogs that lose their appetites are another matter. Sudden loss of appetite requires a vet 👩🏽‍⚕️visit.
Although there isn’t a one size-fits-all-solution when dogs begin to refuse food and it depends on health status, at least one (and hopefully more) of these things can help your dog:


▶Change the diet (be sure it’s balanced) Dogs can associate feeling nauseous with something they ate in the past that seemed to have caused the nausea, and if that something happens to be the usual diet, food aversion happens quickly.


▶ Change the feeding bowl. A flat plate can seem attractive to a dog who usually eats from a bowl. Some dogs refuse any type of feeding utensil, but will eat food off a place mat on the floor. Others enjoy a 'buffet' served in a muffin tin or what have you.


▶ Sometimes an area of a room or even an entire room becomes a “bad place”. Negative experiences like nausea and vomiting may be related to that location. Try another place in that same room, or feed the dog in another room.


▶Change the texture of food. If soft foods are usually fed, try something crunchy like dehydrated bits of meat sprinkled over regular food, crushed rice cake (just a little), etc. If hard foods are usually fed, switch to soft foods like boiled chicken, poached fish, etc.


▶ Try a different temperature of food. Warm it up or try it cold. Most dogs prefer warm food, but some are eager even for some frozen foods like peas, or a frozen ice cube of chicken broth to lap at.


▶ The sense of smell may be altered for some dogs. Stronger scents seem to gain attention. Try a drizzle of canned sardine juice on food, a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese, dollop of tomato paste, baby food (chicken in broth is a favorite), or poach liver in a good amount of water, so you can drizzle the liver juice on food. Freeze leftover broth in an ice cube tray for easy warm-up as needed.



▶ Dogs are masters at body language, and when you worry, the dog worries too. Feeding a bite of cheese with a combination of dread and hope doesn’t work. Make it a happy game. Hid a pill in cheese? First tiny bite has nothing it in, second bite has nothing in it, third has the pill and fourth has nothing in it again.


Be sure to feed a diet that’s correct for your particular dog 🐶and his/her health challenges and keep your chin up. You can do this!

05/14/2021

Beginning to teach a sit/stay in high distractions, with me out of view.

05/12/2021

Working on teaching my 8 month old pup cooperative manipulation. This avoids need for: restrainting, sedation, power struggles and aids in many aspects of obedience that require built self control.