EDIT: March 23rd is full! There are spots available in the March 30th class. We will need registrations by March 25th in order to move forward with that date.
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I love that I can set up something simple and fun for her at a moment's notice with scent detection. We're running an Introduction to Exterior Searches on March 23 and March 30. This one-hour class will introduce your dog to familiar search patterns outside, expanding their skill set and giving you the practice you need to set up outdoor searches at home.
Hope to see you there!
https://goodboydogtraining.ca/index.php/product/scent-detection/
If the volume of your border collie seems to be decreasing, be sure to place it on the charging pad to recharge it to 100% before use.
Your dog's brain is filled with software geared toward finding food. Sniffing, digging, foraging, chewing, and exploring - all that software, and what do we do? We put their meal in a bowl and hand it to them, leaving that software with a big job undone. This can result in a lot of little glitches in our dogs, from chewing furniture to barking at every little noise.
You can head off a lot of issues by picking up some enrichment toys, or using the environment around your dog for enrichment. This particular toy is from Joliepaw, but there are hundreds of options. There are even a lot of things you can do for little to no cost. Give your dog the gift of getting to use the doggiest parts of their brain. From puppies to seniors, the benefits truly can't be overstated.
Some quick sound conditioning! Pair up that scary thunder or hail with the good stuff, and watch your dog come to love thunder. Even my very sound sensitive little border collie is starting to suspect that thunder causes peanut butter.
Biggs and I are working on a few things in this video. On exiting the house, he was really blasting out the door determined to go full steam ahead. So, I worked on building a routine for him that when we exit, he stops with his feet on the door sill, without a verbal cue, waiting to be released. What you can't see behind the door is me resetting back to step one every time: putting on the collar and leash. We're also working on releasing from that position and immediately reengaging with me (rather than assuming focus time is over).
Finally, we're working on a quick turn around cue, helping him learn that we may change direction even when he's most excited to go forward. I'm making sure to put a lot of value into following me, which he clearly gets by the end. I think this was about ten minutes overall.
*Just a note, it's really not necessary to have your dog stop and wait at every door. I chose this for this dog because he was having specific trouble engaging with me on a walk right from the exit point. For my personal dogs, I have this rule for one of them, and not for the other. That choice all depends on your needs and the choices your dog is making when left to their own devices.
Sage is a dog with some big feelings about other dogs. His reactions tend to be abrupt and loud, and being a strong boy, he's pulled his person over in the past. Even in the absence of other dogs, he really wants to get places fast and visit every single tree he passes. Our first couple of sessions were focused on learning to walk nicely. This lesson was centered around creating a quieter, more focused response to the sight of another dog. Here is just a couple of minutes of work. If you're working on reactivity with your dog, there are a lot of little things to think about, but once you get the hang of things, it comes together beautifully.
A quick video of introducing tug play to a young puppy. I am usually teaching a few things at once when introing this. Tug can be a delightful way to play with just a few easy rules. My tug rules for the puppy are:
1) The game starts when I give a cue (take it, get it, or similar). Trying to make me start the game by trying to grab the toy or bite through my hands doesn't work. This rule helps prevent puppies from snatching anything they perceive to be a toy out of hands.
2) Teeth on skin ends the game. Set them up to have good aim by presenting the biteable part of the toy clearly. Two hands spaced apart, presenting the toy in between, usually works best.
3) Dropping when given a cue. I almost always reward a drop by restarting the game.
My rules for myself, which are just as important:
1) Tug is a game with some inherent conflict, and it works best for play and training if you take the conflict out of it. You shouldn't feel like you're arguing with your puppy. Make the game fun by letting them win often. Act goofy, wiggly, and loose yourself. Pretend to fall over because they tugged SO hard. When possible, invite them to return to you after they win instead of trying to snatch the toy back (and notice that when I do take it back, I'm not being intimidating and I'm keeping it playful).
2) Tug games tap into your dog's prey drive, so to get the best results, the tug should act like prey. Wiggle it AWAY from your dog, low to the ground, in small, fast movements. Go from being stationary to abruptly moving. If it looks like a squirrel trying to dodge a dog, you're doing it right!
