Horse husbandry

17/07/2022

How to house horses and design the horse property
Keep in mind that in some countries you must first obtain a state license or approval before accommodating horses. Please also note that there is a strict fire code law framework for horse stables and barns in some places. Consequently, you have to check if you have to notify the municipality or other authorities for your intention of building a horse property.
In a few words, we need a protected indoor shelter, an outdoor shelter, a grazing and/or walking area, one or two rooms to store and prepare feed of various types, a room to store drugs and first aid kits and of course a special electrical fence, so that our horses will not walk away.
Concerning the electrical fence, you are strongly advised not to build it yourself from scratch, because it may result in life threatening situations for the horses. There are numerous suppliers that can come to your place, make an inspection, take into account the number, the weight and the type of your horses and give you a fair quote. A professionally built electrical fence will give the horse an instant but safe electrical shock, acting as a physical, visual and mental barrier. After the first experience, the horse will most probably remember and respect the fence onwards. You may also need portable electrical fences, if you promote rotational grazing.
Regarding the outside shelter, a simple three sided shelter with steady roof is enough. The outside shelter is the place where the horse will stay in rainy or during very hot days. It is also the place where the horse finds fresh and clean water and hay. On average, we need approximately 170 square feet (16 square meters) per horse for the outside shelter.
An indoor shelter (often called box) is the place where the horse rests (from 8pm until 7am). We need on average 170 square feet (16 square meters) for every horse. Sawdust is usually used as bedding for horse boxes. Inside the box, the horse must have constant access to hay and fresh water. The box has to be well ventilated and maintained clean. Boxes usually have a main door, the upper half of which opens like a window, so that the horse owner can take a look inside, without letting the horse exit.
The outside grazing / walking area: The state of walking and grazing daily is strongly related with the horse’s health and well-being. If you cannot offer 1,5 acre (6.000 square meters) per horse, maybe you should consider other options, such as virtually adopting a horse that will be raised in a proper horse stable, at a driving distance from your house. Rocks and other foreign objects must be carefully removed from the walking area, as there may result in horse’s injury. You will also need a dry and shadowy room, where the hay will be stored and a room to store commercial feed. Finally, you need a separate room where you will store drugs, pills and health aid kits.

17/07/2022

Which type of housing is right for your horse? Horse housing can be indoor or outdoor housing, or a combination of both. The type of housing will be dictated by the use of the horse on a day-to-day basis or the preference of the owner rather than by the breed of horse. Unless there is adequate pasture to allow horses freedom at all time, then housing must restrict access to pasture.
All horses should be protected from the inclement weather. Numerous decisions have to be made when designing a barn. Safety is the number one priority to take into account. Unprotected light bulbs, doors with sharp edges and slick flooring can cause accidents. You will also want to consider location, climate, zoning, water, ventilation, feed storage, tack storage and financial costs. It is easy to see that there are quite a few factors to consider before a horse ever steps into a barn.
Best Management Practices
A good barn is an important part of keeping a horse healthy. Barn design and management can have direct effects on the health of horses. The horse’s respiratory system can be put at risk by a poorly designed barn. The risks of other diseases and indeed direct physical trauma can be increased by poorly designed barns. Barns themselves aside, problems may also arise from the design and positioning of ancillary buildings, such as feed-storage areas. Surfaces in barns, passageways and walks around barns can also increase the risk of disease and injury.
Options for Housing your Horse
Indoor Housing
Indoor housing is ideal for horses that are being ridden or used every day in the winter time. Traditionally, you will have individual box stalls and this system will require a considerable amount of daily labor for manure removal. The single story barns are the best option since they are cheaper to build and maintain. Hay storage should be considered in a separate barn and you should contact your local fire department for advice on regulations and suggestion on fire barrier placement.
Recommended sizes for box stalls:
A miniature horse - a 6' x 8' stall.
Ponies and small horses, under 900 pounds - 10' x 10' stalls. But if you have the room, you might want to make the stalls 10' x 12' or 12' x 12' to make the barn more versatile and more appealing to future buyers who might have larger horses.
Riding horses, 900 to 1100 pounds- 12' x 12' stall, which is the industry standard.
A Warmblood or a small draft - 12' x 14' to 14' x 14'.
A large draft horse - 16'x16' stall.
A foaling stall should be at least twice the size as a single stall for that size horse.
Standing stalls are where the horse is tied forward with a chain or rope. Horses can also stand loose with two chains across the open end. Many draft horses are kept in standing stalls. They are not as comfortable for the horse since they are limited in movement.
Open-sided or free-stall housing is good to use when you want to maintain horses in the open-air while providing protection from inclement weather. This type of system is used to house a group or horses that get along well with each other. Run-in sheds are often used.
Open shed rows are similar to box stalls in a row but the doors are open to the outdoors. Most doors are Dutch Doors, split to allow the top half to be left open for ventilation purposes. This works best in mild climates.
Outdoor Housing
The advantages to outdoor housing are lower construction costs of the buildings and less labor when it comes to cleaning the building. When considering outdoor housing for horses, you can consider a three- sided structure or a more elaborate open barn. You can purchase a skid steer to clean the barn and thus cut back on the need for the wheel barrow and manure fork. Remember to feed (hay) horses at least 150 meters from the barn to cut back on manure in the barn and the horses will fight less for feed in an open area as compared to the confined space in a barn.
See the images at the top of the article for some examples of housing.
Lighting
A well-lit barn is easier to work in and you will find that fewer horse flies will congregate. Window and skylights provide natural (and free) light, but be careful that they don't let in unrelenting summer sun. If possible, put a light in every stall. Do NOT install any kind of lighting with exposed components.
Fencing
The fencing you choose should be safe and adequate. All horses should be allowed as much outside, free exercise as possible. The fencing should be sturdy especially when the horses leans or rubs against it.
Wood fencing is the most eye appealing but costly and the maintenance can be labor intensive. Poly vinyl chloride (PVC) fencing is becoming increasingly popular because you can get the look of wooden fence, without the maintenance. But PVC is a more expensive option than many of the others. High tensile fence is an economical option, but is not recommended for line fences. It is important that when using any type of electric fence that it is visible to the horse, and the horse perceives it as a barrier. If the horse becomes tangled in the wire, serious injury to the horse can occur. All fences should be at least 4 feet in height. For foals and/or miniature horses, and some ponies, the bottom rail should be set at an appropriate height as to discourage smaller or curious animals from rolling or getting caught underneath it.

30/06/2022

30/06/2022

30/06/2022

30/06/2022

30/06/2022

Soft hooves are one of the more common problems associated with wet and muddy conditions. When discussing the topic of soft hooves, it’s important to understand that the hooves’ main purpose is to support the horse. The hooves are designed to provide balance and stability while carrying the full weight of the horse. When a horse develops soft hooves, other hoof problems that can lead to lameness are likely to follow. In this blog we will discuss:
How Soft Hooves Develop
Problems Associated with Soft Hooves
Prevention and Treatment
How Soft Hooves Develop
The anatomy of the hoof wall plays a large role in how the hoof softens. The hoof wall is composed of horn tubules that provide strength and density to the hoof wall, while at the same time allows the hoof wall to be porous. In normal environmental conditions, these tubules will remain tightly packed and the hoof will remain strong. In wet environmental conditions, the porous structure of the hoof acts like a sponge and will absorb moisture. This excess moisture weakens the connective tissue crosslinks that hold the tubules in place. These bonds will continue to weaken and stretch if the hoof is exposed to moisture for an extended period. This process causes the hoof to lose its structural integrity and shape.
The Effects of Soft Hooves
Under normal conditions, the sole of the hoof is concave. This concave structure helps protect the more sensitive parts of the hoof and acts like a shock absorber. When the hoof absorbs too much moisture, the hoof wall expands. The expansion then stretches and separates the white line area. When the weight of the horse is applied to the softened hoof, the hoof begins to pancake, causing the sole of the hoof to drop. Hoof pancaking will also cause the hoof wall to weaken, crack, and split. This creates the perfect environment for numerous hoof related issues to arise.
The first thing that is noticeable when I see a softened hoof is the enhanced aspect of distortion. When softened, the hoof wall is not as strong and can become difficult to manage during rigorous work. When the hoof capsule is weakened, we must worry about the development of cracks and the hoof’s balance. Right now, I am seeing a lot of clients that are being affected by hoof abscesses. Especially in areas where the hoof tissue has become soft. It is important that your farrier is properly cleaning out the seat of corn area, enhancing the vertical depth of the hoof, and paying attention to the sole. This will help ensure your horse does not become too sensitive.” – Darren Owen, Professional Farrier
Problems Associated with Soft Hooves
Poor Hoof Quality
Hoof cracks, splits, chips, and distortion can form due to the development of soft hooves.
Sensitive Hooves
Hooves may become tender to hard and rocky surfaces. Foreign objects, rocks, and other material can pe*****te and bruise the softened sole. If the hoof becomes too tender, the horse may have difficulty walking or become lame.
Hoof Abscesses
A softened hoof increases the likelihood of abscessing. The weak hoof wall, stretched white line, and softened sole make it easier for bacteria and/or foreign material to pe*****te the hoof capsule. This can result in the formation of hoof abscesses.
Shoe Retention
A soft hoof makes it challenging for a horse to hold a shoe. When the hoof becomes too soft, clenched nails holding the shoe will loosen, pull out, or tear away. This can result in chunks of the hoof wall tearing out; especially around the nail holes. The loss of hoof wall makes it more difficult to reset the shoe. The farrier may resort to gluing the shoe if too much of the hoof is damaged.
Thrush and Crumbling Hoof Horn
Wet and muddy conditions expose hooves to “hoof-eating” microbes that cause thrush and crumbling hoof horn. Crumbling hoof horn, cracks, chips and flat soles are entry points for microbes to invade and thrive.
Lameness
A soft hoof is susceptible to a wide range of hoof related problems. Your horse could become lame from one or more of the above problems.
How to Prevent Soft Hooves
Proper hoof care, clean and dry environments, and proper nutrition all play a role in maintaining a healthy hoof.
“If your farrier does not have a good solid hoof to work with it is challenging to properly shoe the horse. This is where proper nutrition and prevention come in. This allows the horse to maintain a strong hoof even in times when we are experiencing challenging wet environmental conditions.” – Darren Owen, Professional Farrier
Steps to Prevent Soft Hooves
Avoid allowing your horse to spend extended periods of time in wet and muddy environments.
Use shavings and provide your horse with a clean and dry environment.
Routinely dry and clean your horse’s hooves of any mud, debris, or foreign material.
Keep a regular farrier schedule.
Provide proper nutrition and a quality hoof supplement such as Farrier’s Formula® Double Strength to develop a denser, healthier, and more resilient hoof.
Regularly apply a non-caustic hoof conditioner such as Farrier’s Finish® to help regulate moisture balance.
TIP: Adding 2-3 tablespoons of table salt or Epsom salt to a 16 oz bottle of Farrier’s Finish® will help pull out excess moisture and harden the hoof.

30/06/2022

30/06/2022

How often should your horse’s feet by trimmed or shod?
Summer
Trim or shoe hooves at least every 6 to 8 weeks in the summer. Show horses may need more frequent trimming.
Winter
Because the horse’s hooves grow slower in the winter, you should trim or shoe hooves every 6 to 12 weeks. This time interval may be different between horses based on their hoof growth.
Two shoed horse hooves that show balanced horse hooves
A balanced horse hoof
Keeping the hooves balanced
Horses with balance hooves move better, and have less stress and strain on bones, tendons and ligaments. The ideal foot has:
A straight hoof-pastern angle
A straight line from the pastern down through the front of the hoof wall.
This correctly lines up the bones between the pastern and coffin bone.
Easy break over
The toe is not too long and is squared, rounded or rolled.
This allows easier movement with each step.
Too much break over can result in health problems.
Adequate heel support
The shoe extends back to the end of the hoof wall and supports the back of the entire leg.
The back edge of the shoe is under a line drawn down the center of the cannon bone.
Medial-lateral balance
The foot lands evenly from side to side as the horse walks.
Learn how to care for horse hooves in the winter.
Nutrition can help some hoof problems
Feed good quality hay.
Correctly supplement vitamins and trace minerals.
Provide constant access to fresh, clean water.
Correct poor nutrition can lead to gradually improve hoof health.
Cooperate with veterinarians and horse nutritionists to set up a good nutrition plan.
Research shows poor quality hooves can benefit from commercially available hoof care products that contain:
Biotin (20 milligrams per day)
Iodine (1 milligram per day)
Methionine (2500 milligrams per day)
Zinc (175 to 250 milligrams per day)
Common hoof problems
Poor shoeing or trimming
Long toes and collapsed heels
Strains flexor tendons and the navicular bone
Short toes and long heels
Cause trauma to the coffin bone and joint
Imbalanced hooves
Causes stress on supporting ligaments and joints
Hoof cracks
horse hoof that is cracked and a piece is hanging loosely.
Horse hoof blowout crack caused by long trimming interval.
Causes
Dry weather, or frequent changes from wet to dry
Drawn-out trimming intervals and long toes
Poor hoof quality, some horses may be born with it
Treatment tips
Apply hoof moisturizers to the hoof wall and sole during:
Dry weather
Periods of brittle or cracking hooves
Provide good nutrition and commercially available hoof supplements to improve hoof quality
Regularly trim your horse’s hooves
Types of hoof cracks
Horizontal cracks and blowouts
Horizontal cracks and blowouts occur following injury to the coronary band or blow to the hoof wall. This hoof problem generally doesn’t cause lameness.
Grass cracks
Grass cracks commonly occur in horses with long, unshod hooves Trimming and shoeing can correct these cracks.
Sand cracks
Sand cracks result from injury to the coronary band or white line disease that breaks out at the coronary band. Sand crack may result in lameness.
Treatments can include:
Determining the cause of the cracks and removing it
Floating the hoof wall (not letting it bear weight)
Patching the crack
It usually takes nine to 12 months for a horse’s hoof to grow out.
Thrush
Thrush is a foul-smelling black oozy liquid around the frog. Thrush occurs in wet, soiled conditions. Thrush invades the sensitive tissues of the hoof and causes lameness. You can treat by keeping your stalls or barn clean and dry.
Solar abscess
bottom of horse hoof with a bloody hole and without a shoe.
Horse hoof with solar abscess.
A solar abscess is an infection in the sole of the hoof. Solar abscesses lead to sudden or severe lameness. Causes of solar abscess include trauma, bruising, or a foreign body.
Treatments include:
Removing the foreign body (if possible)
Soaking the hoof in warm water and Epsom salt
Keeping the hoof bandaged, clean, and dry
Hot nail
A hot nail is a horseshoe nail within a sensitive area of the horse’s hoof. Hot nails will generally cause lameness.
Treatments include:
Cleaning the nail hole with antiseptic, a wash that prevents germ growth
Packing the hole or bandaging the foot
Providing a Tetanus booster
Street nail
A street nail is any foreign object that enters the horse’s foot. Call your veterinarian immediately if your horse has a street nail. Treatment will depend on the location of the injury.
Laminitis and founder
Laminitis is swelling of the sensitive laminae. The lamina is a connective tissue located inside the hoof. Swelling causes the coffin bone to rotate or sink downward within the hoof. There are several causes of laminitis
Treatments include:
Regular shoeing or trimming
Keeping short toes
Keeping frog and sole support
Navicular
Navicular disease involves the navicular bone, bursa, ligamentous, and/or soft tissue structures. Horses affected by navicular will usually step toe-first because of heel pain.
Causes of navicular:
Inheritance (Quarter Horses and Thoroughbreds)
Poor conformation
Hoof imbalance
Exercise on hard surfaces
Treatments include:
Shoeing
Keeping a short toe
Elevating the heels
Having a good break over
Pads

21/05/2022

draft animal, any domesticated animal used in drawing heavy loads. Draft animals were in common use in Mesopotamia before 3000 BC for farm work and for pulling wheeled vehicles. Their use spread to the rest of the world over the following 2,500 years. While cattle, usually in teams, have been used most often as draft animals, horses and donkeys have supplanted them in many areas. Some horses—such as the Belgian horse, the Clydesdale, the Suffolk, the Shire, and the Percheron—have been bred to serve as draft animals; they weigh more than 725 kg (1,600 pounds) and stand at least 16 hands high. The Asian water buffalo, however, is probably the most important draft animal in the world today. Many of the some 165 million domesticated water buffalo worldwide are used as draft animals, particularly in tropical Asia, where they assist in the production of rice. The role of draft animals in agriculture in less-developed regions of the world continues because of the advantages they offer: their feed is easily grown and commonly available; little maintenance of the animals is required; their manure is a valuable resource for the farmer; and the animal itself may become a source of food or other products at the end of its useful life.
A harness is necessary in using a draft animal efficiently. Such harnesses must allow the transfer of the animal’s muscle power to the task at hand. With oxen and similar animals a yoke that rests on the back of the animal is used to attach the harness, while with horses and other equines a rigid, padded collar is used. The harness itself may be a simple arrangement of ropes connecting the yoke or collar to a plow, or it may be a complex arrangement of strapping to support the shafts of a cart, wagon, carriage, or sled and to allow the animal to pull the vehicle in comfort, either singly or in concert with others. Long teams of draft animals, used in pairs and numbering as many as 24 animals, were common in the 19th century for pulling especially heavy loads, such as large machine parts or bulk commodities.

21/05/2022

harness, the gear or tackle other than a yoke of a draft animal (as a horse, dog, or goat). The modern harness appears to have been developed in China some time before AD 500 and to have been in use in Europe by 800.
The basic harness used for horses in Western cultures consists of a padded leather collar resting on the horse’s shoulders and several associated straps. Two rigid pieces of metal called hames rest on this collar, fastened at top and bottom by hame straps. To this assemblage are attached the traces, straps that pass back along the animal’s sides and are connected to the load. Other straps encase the animal’s body and reinforce the rig. Reins are long straps that pass from the bridle (q.v.) on the horse’s head, through loops in the hames, and back to the hands of the driver, who uses the reins to control the animal.
When a horse is harnessed between shafts, the shafts are usually supported by a back pad; this is a narrow leather cushion resting on the horse’s back, and attached to the shaft by straps and held in position by a girth, or bellyband, and a backband that completely encircle the horse’s midsection.

21/05/2022

horse collar, device of leather, or leather and metal, encircling a horse’s neck, to which traces are attached, used to hitch the animal to a wagon or plow. A Dutch collar consists of a broad band across the chest and a narrow band over the withers; traces are attached to the broad band. A hames collar is heavily padded; iron projections (hames) that surround the padding contain eyepieces for the reins and traces.
The horse collar, which came into general use in Europe during the 12th century, was one of the most important inventions of the Middle Ages. Yoked like oxen in the old European manner, horses had pulled inefficiently because their harness passed across their windpipe and choked them as they pulled. The padded horse collar pressed against the animal’s shoulders and thus did not choke him. Use of the horse collar sped development of transportation and trade and greatly increased use of the horse as a draft animal.