Real-life training scenarios - cats!
Often really triggering for dogs - Tanzy used to bark, scream, lunge, turn herself inside out.
With consistent training, this is what we have now.
When I talk about teaching dogs how to make better decisions themselves, this is exactly what I mean.
Tanzy made the choice to disengage herself, with no prompting, distracting, corrections or aversives required.
Good job Tanzy!
Methods in dog training - not all approaches are helpful for dogs, or for you in the long-term.
Ask questions, do some research and please please choose a trainer who doesn't rely on out-dated and aversive methods.
We can do so much better.
*Please note* If you have used these kind of methods I am certainly not judging.
I have used aversive methods with animals in the past, because that is how I was taught, it was what I was told to do and it was all I knew.
But now we know better and having seen both sides of the coin I am 100% sure that we can teach animals what we want without the need for such methods.
The dogs can't speak for themselves so I am more than happy to be a voice on their behalf.
Why waste time herding hens when they can learn a decent recall too?
Hunting together - predation substitute training
Using a couple of foundation exercises that we train and practice, out on a walk.
Building connection and focus by doing simple things.
A few days after taking this video, I was picking discarded poo-bags out of a hedge (which took a bit of time!)
Instead of running off, Tanzy stood and waited for me, just as I wait for her when she's busy.
It's a two-way street... 🙂
Up & Off
Why train these behaviours?
Some dogs are what I call 'upward' in that they seem to have springs in their legs! They love to jump and climb, but sometimes this can be irritating or even unsafe from a human perspective.
Some dogs might:
🐾 Jump up on people
🐾 Jump on tables or work tops
🐾 Guard or refuse to get off of the sofa or bed
🐾 Have handling issues
🐾 Have loads of energy generally
In these cases I love to train a clear 'up' and 'off' so that we can show our dogs what we want without the need to use punishment or conflict.
By putting a behaviour on cue and then practising in appropriate places, we can give the dog the outlet that they need, and we can manage situations that we find challenging much more easily.
In fact when a behaviour is on cue and practised safely, the dog is then far less likely to practice the behaviour inappropriately. Win-win!
For Tanzy this is great exercise and enrichment - walks with my elderly dog are slow and short, so we fill Tanzy's gaps with tricks and other fun behaviours!
Predation Substitute Training - what is it?
A lot of dogs like to chase and even kill prey animals - from birds and rodents, to deer, sheep and even cats.
Not surprising, given that dogs are predatory animals who have evolved over thousands of years to survive by hunting and scavenging.
Add to that selective breeding e.g Terriers who have been bred to chase, catch and kill 'pests' quickly and effectively - and BOOM - it can be a recipe for disaster.
While this video doesn't look like much, it's actually a great demonstration of how predation substitute training works.
Tanzy has a kill history and would chase anything that moved without a second thought. With clear, kind and consistent training, she is now able to manage herself calmly around potential prey rather than attempting to catch then most certainly kill wildlife given the chance.
The ability to disengage from potential prey is a skill that can be taught. We don't need to use aversive methods to teach a dog not to chase either. Instead of punishing a dog when they do what they are hard-wired to do, we can use appropriate reinforcement to help them to make safer choices, while still meeting the dogs intrinsic needs.
If you have a hunter, don't be swayed into believing that shock training is your only option. Especially now that shock-collars are due to be banned in England. We can create much stronger, longer-lasting behaviours using planned and practised strategy - no force required!
Cooperative care - what is it? It's a way of doing basic maintenance but in a way that minimises stress to both dog and human. It makes the dog a participant rather than us just doing stuff to them. It can be used to help a dog feel better about handling in general, and it can also be used to reduce stress at the vets.
Here is a video of Gunner having his claws clipped and filed. He doesn't mind it because I have taken time to teach him what is happening while building positive associations as we go. I didn't just dive in there with the clippers and grinder, I spent time conditioning the equipment and then introducing each step slowly, building Gunners confidence as we worked.
He now knows that nail-maintenance predicts good things so he doesn't mind having it done. Why make things a struggle when we can make it enjoyable instead?! 👌🙂🐕❤
What do the words "Leave it" mean to you? And what do we want it to mean to our dogs when we cue it?
The more 'traditional' and commonly used way that humans use this cue (aka command) is to bark "Leave it" in a gruff and intimidating tone, in the hope that the dog will stop in their tracks and then.... do what? Just stop. Not take the thing. Do nothing more. All without actually teaching the dog what those words really mean.
We often just say words to our dogs in the hope that they will do what we want, but to teach a cue effectively we must train the behaviour and then pair it with the cue, multiple times, so that the dog learns to really understand what we mean.
Take 'leave it' for this example - is doing nothing a behaviour? What do we want our dogs to DO when we cue those words? How do we train this non-behaviour?
For 'Leave it' a modern & much more effective method is to teach eye-contact away from distractions, then pair it with the cue, practice it and maintain the behaviour so that it is strong, for those times when we really need it.
Tanzy is the ultimate scavenger, hunter and general scoffer of all things - last year she ate a live baby bird, she also choked on an apple-core that got lodged in her throat, not to mention the general consumption of anything else that she found. She has mild resource-guarding tendencies so removal of said items was a no-no (until we did some serious 'drop' training, but that's another story!) So for safety purposes we have been practicing 'leave it' for just over a year & here we are.
So far she has 'left' a chicken bone, a bird wing, an apple-core (her favourite thing!) a dead bird and some live baby ducklings amongst other things. This for me is a training success, and for her (and the wildlife) a potentially life-saving behaviour. This has been trained in a fun way, so that the dog understands, without force, intimidation or the need to growl a 'command' at her.
So in a nutshell, I have trained "Leave it" to
Another simple enrichment idea.
All you need is some packaging paper and your dogs food.
Hide the food in the creases and folds then let your dog get busy!
Shola has been practising her lead-handling skills with Tanzy and a long-line.
This is called the bubble game. The idea is to stay in the dogs bubble by keeping just behind and off to the side of them.
The lead should be held lightly in your hands with no tension, and with a 'smile' between you and the dog. Ideally the lead stays off the ground too.
Then just watch and follow the dog!
• Practice letting the lead out and gently taking it back up again without tension as the dog moves around and stops.
• Learn to anticipate what the dog might do next.
• Concentrate on what your hands are doing so that eventually it becomes second-nature...practice and muscle memory makes pretty much perfect!
Enjoy!