04/02/2025
Hi all! Well, we achieved January, so now onto the second most awful month of the year...
There are signs of hope though everywhere; the birds are singing more, snowdrops are appearing, and if you finish work at 4.30 or before you can probably get a quick ride in after work (Spring days are just around the corner - hang in there).
My last post about suppleness in the older horse got a lovely response from you all so I thought I would share some leg yielding tips that I use to help you get the most out of this very versatile exercise.
On the video our lovely Florence, aged 21yrs, and her regular rider at TDS, Marie, are our models.
TIP #1 DON'T GET TOO PARALLEL IN THE BEGINNING
I always start leg yielding (unless the horse is mega-established and in the prime of life) on a diagonal line. It is way easier for the horse (although it can fry the rider's noodles a bit when they have been taught that leg yield must always be parrallel to the long side).
Try riding it by turning down just after A or C , and rather than trying to come parallel, or starting to leg yield immediately, begin by riding a direct diagonal line to the corner marker (F, K, H, or M).
The horses head, chest and body - and yours, should face the marker, then turn your pelvis and upper body a centimetre or two away from the direction you are going to engage your inside seatbone, then give your leg aid.
This type of leg yield does not give you great big 'sc******ng' across steps, but rather a much more modest version.
It is good to not ask too much, and instead achieve steps that are in balance, on the line, and don't disturb the rhythm. Try this in walk then trot, and take care not to ask for bend with the inside rein (which 'jack knifes' the shoulders out of control).
TIP #2 GET THE TIMING OF THE LEG AID RIGHT.
The inside hindleg of the horse can only change it's planned course of action before it actually leaves the ground.
(For clarity, the inside hindleg is the one on the side you are pushing from your leg with)
If your leg aid is given during the moment when the inside hindleg of the horse is already in the air, it has already made it's plan and can only stick to that plan.
So we give the aid when the inside hindleg is on the ground and therefore ABOUT TO LEAVE IT, at which point it can really change it's mind and head forwards AND across in front of the other hindleg.
Here are the ways you can tell when it is the right moment to give the aid -
In walk, the horse's inside front leg will be BACK at the same moment as the inside hind is about to leave the ground - this gives time for the horse to 'process' your aid.
In trot, riding on the correct diagonal, in rising trot, it is as you sit.
If you are feeling fancy, you can feel for the back of the horse dropping your hip on that side and feel the right moment - but this is harder than it sounds!
Remember if you miss the moment, it doesn't matter, there will be another one along in a second (unless your horse has stopped for a poo!)
Once you have the right moment you can build a nice rhythm in your head, (kind of 'now, now, now') This can be every stride or every two or three strides.
I sometimes touch the horse on the hindleg lightly with a schooling whip (think fly landing, not whallop), which makes them think about this part of their body.
TIP #3 'MORE FORWARDS ISN'T ALWAYS THE ANSWER! SLOWER CAN BE BETTER.
Once the horse is nicely warmed up, and has done the shallow lines as above, and had a bit of a trot and a canter, I sometimes add my 'slow leg yield'.
This might sound like madness, but can bring you a great deal more than you would think.
You might have noticed by now that the shoulders of the horse and the hindquarters are capable of doing totally separate things. In leg yielding this can make 'losing the outside shoulder' the biggest problem we face.
Yes, sure we need to 'half halt with the outside rein', but there is more to this I think.
I like to build a little 'pause' into leg yield after each step, and then move the hindquarters and the shoulders individually. This gives me maximum time to 're-control' the shoulders, as well as gently stretching the amount of 'sideways' I can get.
It is important to note that the phase when the legs step apart is as important as when they cross over, giving a lovely opportunity to stretch the horse's lower back, hips, groins, and chest muscles.
I really want the older horse to not be rushed in this moment, as they need time to take a really careful, deliberate step across.
By going slowly, I can help them with their balance and straightness, as well as making sure that I don't ask too much of them. I am never going for 'as much as is possible' - just a change of body pattern from what is their norm.
The little pause in this leg yield exercise always reminds me of the moment in 'the waltz' that kind of looks the same.
Any regular students will know what I mean when I say 'let's waltz the next leg yield!'
Happy Riding, and please share your comments, and experiences below.