Duggal Aviary Faisalabad

21/04/2024

"FARBEXPLOSION BIEM DIAMANTTAUBCHEN"

(Color Explosion in the Diamond Dove)
Oppenborn,G. 1985 Geflugel-Borse #18 p 11

This article was received from D. Rinehart in Ohio back in 1985. It was translated; from the original German article; by W.F. Hollander & printed in the IDS bulletin. Since this article more color mutations have appeared and some understanding of the genetics has occurred.

"In recent years the Diamond Dove has become so popular, and with some new mutations, that a write up has become needed.

In it’s native Australia the 19-20 cm. dove loves the sun, therefore it can’t be considered winter hardy here (Germany).

The first introduction to Europe was in 1868, and into Germany in 1875. In the same year, Dr. K. Russ succeeded in getting the first breeding. Since 1890 they have been bred continuously at the Berlin Zoo. Breeding is relatively simple, and the doves take almost every opportunity to nest. Incubation is 12 to 13 days and the babies get out of the nest at 11 or 12 days. Rearing is usually no problem.

The recognized colors are wild color, silver and brilliant. A new mutant in recent years is the white-rump. The white-rump can be with each of the main colors. Some mixed colors have resulted from unsuitable mating and have been given some unsuitably fantastic names. But such mixed colors should be weeded out because they can’t be successful in shows.

Further, there are white-tailed and white-flighted birds, usually along with the white-rump and in all three colors.

The Isabel color is now fixed and some Isabel birds have a beautiful reddish appearance. Isabel is inherited dominate over brilliant.

All of the above color classes have the normal wing markings, that is, two white round dots on each feather, but there may be instead, tips and lacing.

Then there are pied birds but not yet well marked. They should be fifty-fifty.

Brown (cinnamon), grey, and even yellow varieties are said to exist, but so far only in the rumors – kitchen!

Also so far no pure whites exist. Birds that approach it (white) are only very light brilliants, with red eyes, and their wings still show faint markings.

The diamond dove breeders or at least some of them should be coaxed to prepare a breeding textbook. Then the whys and wherefores could be better understood".

Post script by the editor (Reichenbach): Mixed colors or intermediate patterns or color types result from the combination of non-allelic mutant genes or by selection of changed color types, e.g. the brilliant. Each mutant should be tested with wild type to see whether the segregation occurs according to Mendalian laws, or whether it is irregular.

Post post script: White rump birds have a somewhat lighter ground color than self-colored birds.

Note by W.F. Hollander: silver = dilute?, brilliant = milky?, cinnamon?"

Article TOC Diamond Dove Color Table Diamond Dove Articles

16/04/2024

Aoa
Silver pied Male
Age app 5 to 6 months
Available for adoption
Contact
Asif Masood
0300 9655691

15/04/2024

AOA
Silver Cinnamon (coomboo) breeder female available for adoption
Contact Asif Masood
0300 9655691
Location Faisalabad

13/03/2024

Red , Blue & Opal Pied Chicks Sold
AllahamdullAllah

25/02/2024

شادی کرنے سے پہلے آپ فزیبیلٹی بناتے؟ کتنے بچے پیدا کرنے کتنا فوڈ کھائیں گے کتنا خرچہ ہو گا کل کو بڑے ہو کر کتنا کما کر دیں گے؟ برڈ کے کام کی فزیبیلٹی کیوں؟ جاندار چیز پر سب فزیبیلٹیاں وڑ جاتی ہیں۔ چورن بیچنا بند کرو

05/02/2024

How to treat Eye infection in birds Specially in Diamond dove

03/02/2024

Information about Diamond Dove (PART 2)
And Open wings technique

02/02/2024

Sb Behn or Bhaiyo ko mashwra Hy ky please JB b Bird purchase kry tu Maximum 20k to 25k me pair purchase kry coz rate is MAFIA ny down krny he hoty hn so JB rate down ho Ga to ap logo ko nuqsan km ho Ga
Or rahi bat mutations Ki is py me ny ya Video j**s ka link neachy Diya Hy 1 Saal phly bna di thi kafe Dosto ko is video ny nuqsan sy bcha b liya tha Allah Pak ka Hukm sy
Ap b zror dekh ly
Regards
Asif Masood
From
Duggal Aviary Faisalabad

AssalamualaikumI am ASIF MASOOD DUGGAL and i am a Birds Breeder, I’M Belongs From faisalabad. I Have Almost All Verities Of Birds Like Lovebirds like Albino,...

02/02/2024

01/02/2024

Hi everyone! 🌟 You can support me by sending Stars - they help me earn money to keep making content you love.

Whenever you see the Stars icon, you can send me Stars!

31/01/2024

Basic Information about Diamond Dove by
Ch Asif Masood Duggal
Duggal Aviary Faisalabad

25/01/2024

السلام علیکم۔۔
اب جاوا کا ریٹ بھی بہت اچھا جا رہا ہے لیکن لوگوں کی جاوا مر بھی بہت رہی ہے۔۔ روز کوئی نا کوئی کال پر علاج پوچھ رہا ہوتا ہے اور ایسی کافی پوسٹ بھی دیکھنے کو مل رہی ہیں
ایک بات یاد رکھئے شیڈ کو فل پیک کرنے سے برڈز سردی سے تو شاید بچ جائیں لیکن مرنے سے نہیں بچیں گے کیوں کہ ان دنوں سردی کے ساتھ نمی بھی عروج پر ہوتی ہے وہی نمی برڈز کی جان لے لیتی ہے۔۔
ہمیں جولائی اگست کی نمی کی تو بہت فکر ہوتی ہے دن رات ایگزاسٹ فین چل رہے ہوتے ہیں لیکن جنوری میں شیڈ کو پیک کر کے ہم خود نمی والا ماحول بنا کر برڈ مروا رہے ہوتے ہیں۔۔ خدارا ایسا نا کریں ہمیشہ ہوا کے رخ والی سائیڈ پیک کریں دوسری سائیڈ پر کوئی ایک کھڑکی کھلی چھوڑ دیں مغرب ٹائم وہ کھڑکی بھی بیشک آدھی بند کر دیں دن میں ایک دو بار ہوا آر پار ہونے دیں إنشاءاللّٰه بہت سے مسائل حل ہو جائیں گے مطلب آپکے برڈ جو بیٹ کریں اگر وہ فرش پر پڑی خشک ہو جائیں تو سمجھ جائیں آپ کا شیڈ اور برڈ محفوظ ہیں۔۔ پانی میں چوعرقہ اور سیب کا سرکہ دیتے رہیں آپکے برڈ فٹ رہیں گے ۔۔ اللّه پاک سب کو بہترین رزق عطا کرے۔۔ آمین
چوہدری آصف مسعود دگل

23/01/2024

Fawn Java , Silver Java , White Java
Blue pied Dove & Red Pied Dove Chicks expired due to extreme Cold weather ☁️ in Faisalabad
Allah Pak SB ky Birds ko apny Eman me rekhy
Ameen ya Rab ul Almeen

13/12/2023

Brilliant pied Chick
MashAllah growing well at
Duggal Aviary Faisalabad

06/12/2023

05/12/2023

(Professional Advice)
Never pair split to split
Always pair visual to split
All chicks will easily be sold out

13/11/2023

Some important information about
LADY GOLDEN Finch
Regards
Duggal Aviary Faisalabad

12/11/2023

Lovebird Colors, Genetics, and Mutations
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Lovebirds are small, affectionate parrots known for their lively personalities and vibrant array of colors. These charming birds belong to the genus Agapornis and come in nine different species, each with its own set of unique color specifications. While these birds are known for their striking hues, many people do not realize that these colors are a result of various mutations, both natural and selectively bred.

Green: The Original Lovebird Color
Lovebirds in their wild color or "wild type" are typically green. This green coloration was the original color found in their natural habitats before any mutation occurred. However, as a result of selective breeding and mutations, lovebirds now boast a wide array of colors, including green, yellow, peach, orange, violet, teal, black, and white.

Peach-Faced Lovebird Mutations
Peach-faced lovebirds, also known as Rosy-faced lovebirds, are known for their stunning color mutations. This species, scientifically known as Agapornis roseicollis, presents myriad visually appealing color variations. Some popular peach-faced lovebird mutations include:

Dark Factor: Characterized by strikingly dark hues.
Pied: The pied mutation leads to irregular patches of color and white across the body.
Violet Pied: This is a combination of the violet and pied mutations, leading to a bird with patches of violet and white.
Dutch Blue: This mutation results in a white-faced, blue-green bodied lovebird.
Lutino: Lutinos are characterized by a bright yellow body, with orange to red facial markings and red eyes.
White-faced Lovebirds: These lovebirds are predominantly white, creating a stunning visual contrast with their colored features.
Seagreen (AquaTurquoise): Seagreen lovebirds are similar to the wild green variant but have a softer, sea-green hue.
Fischer's Lovebird Mutations
The Fischer's lovebirds, scientifically known as Agapornis fischeri, are another species that present an array of color mutations. Some common color variations in Fischer's lovebirds include:

Blue: This mutation leads to a lovely shade of blue across the bird's body.
Lutino: Just like in Peach-faced lovebirds, the lutino mutation in Fischer's lovebirds results in a bright yellow bird with red eyes and an orange head.
Dilute: This mutation dilutes the bird's original color, resulting in a lighter hue.
Dark-eyed clear: This mutation results in a bird with white or yellow feathers and dark eyes.
Pied: Similarly, the pied mutation in Fischer's lovebirds leads to patches of color and white across the body.
Cinnamon: This mutation leads to a lighter, pastel color.
The Genetics Behind Lovebird Mutations
lovebird chromosome inheritance

Lovebirds, specifically Agapornis species, exhibit various genetic mutations that can be inherited through three types of mechanisms. In this article, we'll explore the basics of lovebird genetics and the inheritance patterns of dominant and recessive mutations.

To begin, it's important to note that these mutations are found in pairs of chromosomes, which combine during reproduction to create four different possibilities for offspring. Let's delve into the three types of inheritance:

Autosomal Dominant Mutations: This category includes Dark factors, Violet, and Pied mutations. As dominant mutations, they only need to be present in one chromosome of the pair to be visible in the bird.
Autosomal Recessive Mutations: Turquoise, Aqua, Orange-faced, and Marbled mutations fall under this group. For these mutations to be visible, they must be present in both chromosomes of the pair. If they are found in only one chromosome, the bird is considered a "split" carrier. Additionally, peach-faced lovebirds (roseicollis) can also have Pale, Fallow, and Recessive Pied mutations, though they are less common. In eye-rings lovebirds, Pastel and Ino mutations can be found.
S*x-Linked Recessive Mutations: Opaline, Ino, Pallid, and Cinnamon mutations are examples of s*x-linked recessive mutations. These mutations act differently in males and females due to the unique nature of s*x chromosomes. Females have one s*x chromosome that does not store genetic information about mutations. Consequently, in s*x-linked mutations, females will only utilize one chromosome instead of both. This type of inheritance is commonly found in peach-faced lovebirds, although s*x-linked mutations in eye-rings lovebirds are less prevalent.
Dominant Mutations in Lovebirds
When breeding lovebirds, understanding the mechanism of inheritance is essential. Offspring inherit one chromosome from each parent, resulting in four possible combinations with varying inheritance patterns. Dominant mutations are relatively straightforward. If one parent exhibits the mutation, it will be transmitted to the offspring. However, distinguishing between single-factor (SF) and double-factor (DF) specimens visually may not always be possible.

In terms of dominant mutations, here are some important points to consider:

A bird without the dominant mutation cannot transmit it, even if one of its parents has the mutation.
A DF specimen will always produce mutated descendants, although the descendants themselves may only be SF carriers. For example, a DD specimen will produce at least one D, even if it isn't visually evident.
The terms SF and DF are commonly used to represent whether a specimen carries the mutation in one or both chromosomes, respectively.
Differentiating between SF and DF specimens, especially in cases like Dominant Pied, is challenging without genetic testing.
Pied is a dominant mutation, so the descendants will always exhibit the Pied trait, even if the other parent lacks it. If the specimen is SF, 50% of the offspring will be Pied, while DF specimens will result in 100% Pied offspring.
If both parents are SF Pied, some offspring may not exhibit the mutation.
Notably, Pied is the only true dominant mutation, as there are no visual differences between SF and DF specimens. Dark Factor and Violet mutations are considered incomplete dominants, as DF specimens may differ significantly from SF specimens due to the incomplete presence of the mutation in the pair of chromosomes.
Recessive Mutations in Lovebirds
Recessive mutations play a significant role in the genetics of lovebirds. These mutations require both chromosomes to carry the mutation for it to be visibly expressed. On the other hand, carriers of recessive mutations have the mutation in only one of their chromosomes but do not display it visually. This concept of carrier status is crucial in comprehending the inheritance patterns of recessive mutations.

For instance, consider breeding a beautiful Blue Violet male with a wonderful Opaline Lutino Orange-faced female. If they are not carriers of other mutations, their offspring will simply be Green with a red mask. It's essential to remember that carrier status influences the outcomes of breeding.

Codominance is another factor to consider. Certain mutations, such as Turquoise and Aqua in peach-faced lovebirds or DEC, Ino, or Pastel in eye-rings lovebirds, are placed close together along the chromosome filament. As a result, they can merge, creating hybrid mutations like AquaTurquoise or DECIno. This phenomenon is known as codominance.

When discussing recessive mutations, the symbol "/" is used to denote carrier status. For example, if an Aqua bird carries the Marbled mutation, it would be written as Aqua/Marbled.

Moving on to s*x-linked recessive mutations, it is important to differentiate between males and females. In males, these mutations behave similarly to recessive mutations, following the same inheritance patterns. However, in females, one of the s*x chromosomes is unable to store genetic information on mutations. Therefore, the other chromosome pair carries the mutation, resulting in females either displaying the mutation or not. Females never carry s*x-linked mutations.

By understanding the combinations and possibilities of inheritance, we can predict the outcomes of breeding. For instance, breeding a male with a s*x-linked mutation and a female with a mutation will yield offspring where males display the mutation and females may or may not display it.

It's worth noting that codominance and allelic mutations, such as Cinnamon and Ino or Pallid and Ino, exist in s*x-linked mutations. These combinations can result in unique hybrid characteristics. However, some combinations, like pairing two Ino specimens, may lead to weaknesses and are not advisable.

Furthermore, certain mutations can mask or hide others. For instance, Ino can hide Violet, and Pallid can hide Pied. These factors should be taken into account when observing and breeding lovebirds.

Final Notes
In summary, understanding recessive mutations in lovebirds is essential for successful breeding and genetic management. Recognizing carrier status, considering codominance, and being aware of s*x-linked mutations are key elements in predicting offspring traits. By studying and delving deeper into these genetic principles, breeders can gain a more scientific understanding of lovebird genetics and further enhance their breeding programs.

12/11/2023

DIAMOND DOVE GENETICS
Welcome to "genetics" for Diamond Doves. The chart shows the expected offspring results from known data. This data assumes the pairs you are breeding are as stated in the diagrams and have no hidden color genes other then what is stated in each diagram.
Scroll down to the animated egg below to link to the Chart.
please read the info on this page before jumping top the chart

Test breeding the mutant color back to the Blue (wild type coloration) is the first step in any genetic analysis. Test breeding the F1 & F2 Blue young back to the "visual mutant color" will prove the existence or non existence of the possible hidden recessive color gene. Using an unrelated bird of the same visual mutant for further test crosses is strongly advised - to keep the vigor of the offspring strong. Not a lot of F1 test pairing are available for results to prove or disprove any hidden mutant genes. Accurate record keeping is also a must.Read the following article BASIC PEDIGREE ANALYSIS for some insight for test breeding
NOTE: some of the colors now being bred in the DD are "combinations of known colors" and the offspring can be one of the several colors or a combination of the colors which are in the makeup of the parent birds.
The expected results do not occur in every single clutch as they are listed in the chart. The expected results may appear with as few as 4 birds or more then 100 young from a single pair. The results are also based on both eggs being fertile, hatching & young living until the mutant can be determined. Single hatches can be records & indicated as such.

The occurrence of s*xes within each clutch for all dove/pigeon species which lay two egg clutches have been proven & are stated as follows - S*x ratio: 25% both male; 50% male/female; 25% both female. There are no "s*x-linked" colors currently known in DD’s.

The White Rump & White Tail genes are descriptive of the rump & tail areas of the birds. Both colors have a solid white colored rump area. The WR has the typical "white rump" & has colored tail feathers – which can be only the two central tail feathers being tipped with color (usually the "ground/body color). The WT has the typical "white rump" but all solid white feathers in the tail. The WR/WT gene can also affect the ground color & can sometimes alter the "diamond spots" into a "barred/lace" effect or enlarge them to 1/4" in size.

A "modifer" gene is being researched. It is assumed that it affects the White Rump gene into producing the White Tail birds. Two White Rump birds can produce White Tail birds. Likewise two White Tail birds can produce White Rump birds.

NOTE: White Tail birds are only produced from WR/WR; WR/WT or WT/WT pairs – you cannot produce WT birds using any solid colored bird in the pair.

The best way to identify any of the color mutations in DD is by using the OW (open wing) tip. This involves looking at the primary and secondary flight feathers. The color of the edges & the inner webs of these areas will help identify the mutations. Check the OW comparison pictures of the different colors here. Also check out the great "color" comparison pics on Jeff Downing’s web site. Diamonddove.com

I use abbreviations when describing or writing about the various color mutations. Such as: WR/WT. When you see this it means it is being used for the description of either mutant.

WR = White Rump WT = White Tail
(a co-dominate gene with Blue)

Some other abbreviations I use & you may see listed in the chart are BWR, BWT, SWR, SWT, YWR, YWT, CWR,CWT, BrWR, BrWT - the first letter usually signifies the ground (body) color of the bird, B=Blue; S=Silver; C=Cinnamon; Y=Yellow; Br=Brilliant.

A color which is in parenthesis means that color is hidden: example Blue (yellow)

To produce the colors in combination with WR/WT, you must produce the "split" birds & then breed the WR split birds to other same colored splits or back to the visual mutant you want. For example: Yellow White Rump. Using a BWR breed it to a Yellow (either parent can be the BWR): all offspring, both s*xes, will carry the "yellow" gene; young will be Blue(yellow) or BWR(yellow). You then breed the BWR(yellow) to a Yellow or another BWR (yellow) – 25% of young will be Yellow WR.

Remember there will always be some color variation within each described color mutant, even within same family lines. All may or may not fit into the written descriptions which are recognized by the ADA & CDA.

Hidden color genes may or may not affect any or all young when in combinations research is ongoing.

11/11/2023

Calcuim & Fortified Salt

The mineral dish shown to the right holds Granular F size limestone with a “three finger
pinch” of fortified livestock salt (with trace elements iodine, cobalt, manganese, etc. added).
Calcium Analysis shows: Calcium carbonate minimum 95%, Calcium maximum 40% &
minimum 38%. Other calcium sources can be just as good, but not nearly as inexpensive.
The salt is also inexpensive. The ringneck doves, Streptopelia risoria, prefer Granular F
Limestone to other calcium sources like chick size oyster shell. [Canaries, finches as well as
Diamond doves use it as well.] Along with the salt it seems to be necessary for continuous
production in doves and finches. It is given to the doves at liberty in ceramic dishes. Calcium
especially is necessary for egg laying and more so for the growing squabs. I have been told
that the parents physiologically will remove calcium from their own bones to feed the grow-
ing squabs. So, if they are deficient, eating only grains, they will stop at two clutches of young
until they can replenish the calcium deficiency.

11/11/2023

Feeding Seed &
Fruit Eating Doves

Doves are primarily seed eaters. Being a soft billed bird they cannot crack the hulls of hard shells like a parrot. A good, clean
mixture of seeds like millet, oats, milo, raw shelled peanut halves, safflower seeds and sunflower seeds is essential. When setting up
your aviary; even the small cage for your pet dove kept indoors; ensure that the feed and water dishes are not below a perch and
are protected from in climate weather and the bird's droppings. Wet or dirty seed can and does breed bacteria which can cause
illness. For the same reason, any fruits or vegetables that are left over 24 hours should be thrown out. Doves also like “treats” like
millet sprays, finely chopped & fresh broccoli heads, lettuce, strawberries, raspberries and grapes. Some doves will even eat meal
worms. Other treats include: (Always fresh, finely chopped or thinly shredded) greens, shelled snow peas, spinach and carrots.
Your dove will have it's own favorites. Always wash the vegetables and fruits first and remove after 24
hours. Doves love multi grain breads as well. Adding mineral and vitamins supplements (powdered or liq-
uid) either to the seed mix or water is a good practice to acquire. Vitamins; crushed oyster shell or lime-
stone, is essential to their needs. "Grits” can help to break up food. Mineral blocks, cuttlebone and fortified
salts are also helpful. These are often ground up and put it in a small dish. Supplements such as "gamebird
crumbles" either fed separately or mixed in the seed mix is used by many fanciers. These type of feeds are many times a
"medicated" feed & is a preventive for several diseases the doves & pigeons can pick up. You can also find non-medicated crum-
bles. Feeding the "pigeon pellets" to the exotic doves and pigeons can be easier then a seed mix. The
bird's dropping change on an "all pellet diet" and many times it is hard to get the birds to switch to
the unfamiliar pellets. If interested, slowly add the pellets to the seed mix over a month or two. A
mixture of the pellets as 1/4 to 1/2 of the total mix offered makes an excellent diet. The pellets can be
fed separately or mixed with the seeds. Ensure the “pellets" cannot be contaminated or become wet.
Pheasants will eat the same as above but they will also enjoy tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, water-
melon, cantaloupe, apples, corn and crickets. John Pire states: “In my 25 years of experience of
keeping the foreign exotic species of seed-eating doves & pigeons I have tried many
different commercial seed diets or mixed my own blend. One thing all the commercial
diets had in common was that the seed mix contained several varieties of "PEAS". It
is stated over & over that PEAS are the most nutritious part of the seed mix; this may
be quite true, but over 90% of the foreign species I kept would not eat the "peas".
Even today, the peas are the main seed item left in the bottom of the feed dish. I throw
these leftovers to the wild birds. All the wild doves or feral pigeons consume these left
over peas from the bird feeder or off the ground.
With the exception of the fruit eating species most doves and pigeons are very easy
to feed in aviaries. The smaller species such as Diamonds, Zebras and Capes do well on
a mixture of small seeds. A quality finch or dove mix will suffice. Using white millet and
milo as the basis for a mix and then adding other small seeds can also be an option for
the fancier. For Ringnecks and other medium to large doves and pigeons with non-
specialized feeding habits the following mixture will prove quite adequate; 3 parts plain
canary seed, 3 parts milo, 2 parts yellow millet, 2 parts white millet, 1 part split maize, 1
part buckwheat, 1 part safflower, 1 part groats. A commercial "dove mix" can be used
instead of mixing your own. For Nicobars, Crowned Pigeons, Bronze-winged and other
large species, wheat and other grain should replace the smaller millets. Note: many
fanciers substitute a quality pigeon mix for these larger species. The aforementioned
Spinach, lettuce, cress, other green food and breads should be offered to all these birds. Again, many fanciers also offer gamebird
or turkey crumbles to their birds. Raw peanuts, hulled sunflower hearts, popcorn, whole yellow corn and other seeds can be added
at the fanciers discretion. There are many different seed mixes available from as many dealers. John Pire uses the dove mix from
Bay-Mor. He purchases the mix in the 50 # bag and adds a 5 # bag of safflower and a 5 # bag of milo. He also has a red mineral grit
available at all times for all the birds in his collection. A liquid mineral/vitamin supplement is added once a week to the water.
Breads are fed about once a month to all the birds. Many of my seed-eating species also have access to a soft mix which is fed to the
fruit-eating species in my collection.
Feeding Fruit Eating Doves & Pigeons is a little more involved. The colorful fruit doves &
pigeons take no seed or grain. Given free choice, John’s doves consume the veggies much
quicker then the diced fruits contained in his mix. Always know that they will be healthier
from a more varied diet. Some species enjoy mealworms and other small live foods. Efforts
should be made to persuade them to take some insectile mixture. This picture shows the soft
mixture John Pire uses for the species of fruit doves & pigeons he keeps. The fruits are rinsed
and then diced into about 1/4" pieces (these fruits are usually available year round) then about
1/2 of the packaged dry dog food is added to the mix. One sample diet includes: 4 parts diced
pear, 2 parts diced apple, 1 part sliced tomato, 1 part sliced grape & 1 part insectile mixture.
Along with this mix, the diet should include a mixture of boiled rice (30g), some soaked trout
pellets (10g) and 1 chopped hard-boiled egg. Some aviculturists use food items ranging from soaked chick crumbs to mashed banana for their birds. Often they feed avidly on
these and other unlikely things. Care must be exercised, however, in adding foods
high in fats or carbohydrates. Fruit doves & pigeons are generally lethargic and
unwilling to take strenuous exercise in captivity. An excess of the wrong foods will
lead to obesity and death.
John also uses Purina Nutri-Blend Green Pellets. The picture below shows the
pellets whole & ground up. He uses a standard blender to powder the pellets. This
powder is mixed in the soft diet to make it drier, also when vitamin/mineral supple-
ments are added. The birds are used to eating a coated fruit/veggie mix & it is
much easier to get the birds to eat the additives this way.
This diet can also be
given to "foster birds"
which may be used for fostering the fruit dove species young. It is best to
switch the foster birds to the new diet before any young of the fruit dove
species are given to them for fostering. He prefers to switch the diet of
the foster birds at the time he fosters the fruit dove eggs to them. This
ensures that they will be eating the new diet when the young are hatched.
If the young fruit doves need to be fostered after hatching, change the
foster dove’s diet as soon as the young are given to them. OBSERVE
that the parents are eating the new diet. BE SURE TO REMOVE ALL
THE OLD DIET, INCLUDING ANY GRIT. Grit will impact the fruit
dove/pigeon's crop and can cause damage and possible death.

11/11/2023

Nests & Nesting, What Works For Doves Nests & Nesting, What Works For Doves
When a pair of doves are placed together it will take anywhere from a month to a number
of years for them to breed. Domestic varieties (Ringnecks & Diamonds) usually take less
time to establish a pair bond and breed. Some exotic varieties may never breed in your avi-
ary. This is where the challenge of keeping doves comes in. To begin the process you should
provide your birds with nesting sites to choose from and plenty of cover for security and pri-
vacy. You may want to plant trees and place other plants in your aviary for cover and nest-
ing. Doves generally lay two eggs which hatch after 12 to 18 days. The young then leave the
nest three to four weeks later. It is not uncommon to see some pairs (especially domestic va-
rieties) lay all year beginning on a new clutch every six weeks. This is not recommended be-
cause it is unhealthy for the birds. After three or four clutches the breeding for that year
should stop by either removing nesting materials or separating the birds.
For mating, doves should have plenty of head room. At least 8” from the perch to the
cage/aviary top and 6-7” for tail room. The nest should be placed out of the way, at a lower (intermediate) level than at the highest
perch. Otherwise, the doves may roost in the nest and dirty it up before the nesting cycle takes over. Doves are not known for their
nest building expertise. Dove nests are generally flimsy structures with just a few twigs seemingly thrown together. It is important
that you help them by placing "nesting boxes" for them to build nests in. Nesting boxes can be elaborate or simple. They can be
constructed of wood or could simply be an old Tupperware dish. You decide. Most doves prefer open nests, not covered. It is wise
to put more nests in a flight/cage than you have pairs because they like to choose their own nesting site. You may want to put them
at various heights as well.
For Ringnecks, the nest itself should be approximately 7”x 5”x 3” deep. Other sizes will work.
In fact some people use plastic plant or gardening containers. They are slightly smaller than the
dimensions given, have drain holes, and can be red in color, all drawbacks!! The red color first
frightens the doves. Then they get used to it. The holes have to be plugged or the nest material
can fall through. And the smaller size can be too cramped for best setting results. But the con-
venience of disposability and replacement capability can outweigh the drawbacks.
Set the nest crosswise on top of a flat perch (or even on the floor of the smallest
cages) using one or two clothes pins to fasten it to the side wire.
The pictures below show a Ringneck Dove utiliz-
ing a gallon milk container and a soap solution con-
tainer as a nest. A wire hanger is made from a
clothes hanger which allows the container to be hung
in the corner of the breeder cage. Two small drain
holes in the bottom of the milk container helps water
to drain if by chance rain gets into the nest. The half
gallon milk containers cut in a similar fashion also
work for Diamond dove pairs set-up in a breeder cage.
Some people use large deep wicker baskets, even plant hangers by removing the rope of hangers
and attaching the basket to a platform. The doves hunker down inside the nest when they see some-
one, thinking they are out of view. Plus the babies need to be a few days older to fledge
over the edge of the deeper basket. A front area or ledge allows the young & parents a
place to sit; plus the nest does not receive the full impact of the bird landing on the basket,
most will land on the front & then step up into the basket. The green basket & yellow bowl
were purchased at the local "dollar" store & work great.
The above pictures shows several types of nest platforms in which wicker baskets or
plastic containers can attached to. I attach the wicker baskets & plastic containers with
short roofing nails or staples. The "box" type can be left as is & filled with hay, etc. Size
can vary of the wooden platforms; 6" square is a standard size to build & will fit most dove
species. I prefer to have the sides at least 2" or more high to help keep the nesting materials
in. The box type is an old parakeet box, with the top & half the front removed
Do not use any type of fastener that
leaves a raised head. Eggs can be cracked or
punctured by it. Pictured above is a plastic
feed/seed bowl typically sold in pet stores and can also substitute for a nest container. It is good to hot glue a few pieces of nesting
material in them to help hold the nest the pair builds. These bowls are slick sided & the hay, twigs, etc. can be pushed from inside -
leaving no materials for the eggs or young. The metal hangers are used to hang the bowl on the wire sides & can be easily made by
anyone who can weld or at your local metal shop.
You may have to help the doves start the nest. Dried, cut Alfalfa, Bermuda, or other grass about 4-
6” long are usable for nesting material. But freshly fallen pine needles are the best single nest material
to use. (White Pine pictured to the right) If they are not available keep in mind two needs: 1) A soft
material to keep the eggs from breaking and 2) clutchability for the squabs to cling to for the vigorous
feeding movements and proper leg development. If the squab has to clutch the toes of the parent, it is
likely to be dropped out of the nest as the parent gets off. Then the squab usually suffers exposure
(cold) and lack of feeding, often dying. The parents will not seek out and feed or brood squabs out of
the nest. Generally, out of the nest squabs will be fed when the feathers spread out of the sheath enough
to cover the skin. It is most enjoyable and relaxing to watch the doves busy themselves carrying nest
material one at a time to the nest and arranging them. Usually, the female will nest coo intermittently
with wing flaps, and the male will seek out material and carry them to the nest. Occasionally a “tug of
war” for the material occurs, if the female is too anxious and grabs the material before the male feels he
has placed it properly. The doves will appear very industrious for a few days. In fact sometimes there
is a danger of their burying the eggs with the nest material!