In Stride Pet Dog Training LLC

In Stride Pet Dog Training LLC My name is Amy Schuller, I am a Certified Fear Free Professional Dog Trainer and an APDT Member. Thank you for trusting me with your dogโ€™s journey.

Hi, Iโ€™m Amy Schuller, Certified Fear Free Professional Dog Trainer and founder of ISPD Training! ๐Ÿพ

With years of experience and a deep love for helping dogs and their people thrive together, I specialize in positive, science-backed, and fear-free training methods. Whether you're raising a new puppy, working through reactivity, or simply want to build better communication with your dog, my goal is

to create a supportive environment where learning is fun, kind, and effectiveโ€”for both ends of the leash. I canโ€™t wait to work with you!

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿ™Œ
12/05/2025

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿ™Œ

Yes!  ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿ™Œ
12/05/2025

Yes! ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿ™Œ

I find there seems to be rather a lot of miss guided assumptions when it comes to reactivity. People assume a reactive dog is an agressive dog.
This is NOT the case, a reactive dog, is a dog that over reacts to an external stimuli (people, animals, noises, other dogs)
It is the EMOTIONAL state when in the presence of the object of their anxiety or frustration.

A dog might overreact by barking, lunging, growling etc for several reasons, it is a communication.
Trying to shut down this communication though fear and pain (lead flicks, choking the dog, startling noises, yelling/shouting, prong or shock collars etc.) may well look as though the dog is "fixed" but the underlying emotion will still be there.
The dog just learns there is no point asking for help, none will come...... just pain, so they shut down

Keeping a dog in close proximity to the stimulus with no chance of escape (say a dog reactive dog in a enclosed area with several other dogs) thinking they will "get used" to other dogs, is a very outdated and dangerous technique called flooding.
This again does NOTHING to help the dog, they will just shut down
(They are ticking time bomb dogs)

Whereas if you actually listen to your dog and work on changing that underlying emotion, you will be surprised how the behaviour automatically changes.

Behaviour modification takes time, dedication and knowledge, each dog is different as to how quickly they can move forward.
It's like us going to a psychiatrist/counsellor for a mental issue, you aren't going to be "fixed" after one session.

You DONT "CORRECT OR TRAIN" a reactive dog, you "HELP" a reactive dog.

There is NEVER a need to use pain or fear when training any animal

Another splendid video from Happy Hounds Dog Training! Love her content ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—
12/05/2025

Another splendid video from Happy Hounds Dog Training! Love her content ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—

๐Ÿพ STEP-BY-STEP TRAINING PROGRAMS BY HAPPY HOUNDS:View all training programs: https://happyhoundsdogtraining.ca/trainingguidesStop Chasing: A Step-By-Step Gu...

Love this post ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ˜‰
12/05/2025

Love this post ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ˜‰

EQUIPMENT WHICH WILL TIGHTEN HAS THE POTENTIAL TO FRIGHTEN

Something I come across regularly in harness discussions is recommendations for the 2 Hounds Freedom harness, and I have never understood why they are so popular. Its main function is to reduce pulling, and is designed with a martingale loop across the shoulders in order to achieve this. There is plenty of evidence that the harness successfully stops pulling, therefore we have to concede that it is aversive, surely?

You can read more on this topic here:

https://www.trailiepawsforthought.com/post/equipment-which-will-tighten-has-the-potential-to-frighten

Besides the physical discomfort that this type of harness causes, we also need to consider the emotional impact on our sensitive dogs and what else they might associate with the discomfort, because learning happens all of the time, whether or not we intend it. For example, an anxious dog who pulls on the lead when faced with a trigger is not going to be able to learn to feel any better about that trigger when his harness simultaneously tightens and squeezes his body.

Some argue that this particular harness is suited to flight-risk dogs and those that will back out of a harness, and while safety is, of course, so important, it is rare that any real consideration is given to how placing them in situations where they are going to struggle to this degree can be minimised.

Please carefully consider the equipment recommendations you make to others, including how it functions and its purpose. Please also be prepared to acknowledge that there might be better options available that you may not yet have explored. If we feel the need to defer to the old arguments, โ€œthe dog decides what is aversive,โ€ โ€œit isnโ€™t as aversive as ******โ€ etc, reaching the point of splitting hairs and arguing degrees of aversion in order to justify our actions and choices, we are failing as advocates of R+, and therefore also failing our dogs.

ยฉ๏ธ Trailie Paws For Thought
www.trailiepawsforthought.com

I'm very happy for all of my content to be shared, but please do not copy and paste to avoid sharing from source, screenshot, or edit any part of it. THANK YOU! ๐Ÿพ ๐Ÿพ

Image description:
"Equipment that will tighten has the potential to frighten. This type of harness is designed to tighten around the body and cause physical discomfort when the dog pulls. In order to reduce the pulling, it must, therefore, be aversive."

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—
12/05/2025

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—

๐ŸพA collar is great for keeping your dogโ€™s identification tag on; however, it is not ideal for training or walking.

The biggest problem with a collar is that it can potentially cause a lot of damage to your dogโ€™s neck. Prolonged pressure on the neck can affect the dogโ€™s lymph nodes, mandibular gland, thyroid glands, trachea and esophagus.

๐Ÿ•When you're walking your dog on a collar and encounter an unexpected change in the environment, your dog might react by suddenly darting after something or running away in fright. If they reach the end of their lead during this sudden movement, they'll be sharply yanked back. This abrupt stop can put a significant amount of sudden pressure on their neck, potentially leading to whiplash, bruising of the esophagus, and other injuries.

Choke collars, including prong and chain types, are linked to several severe injuries in dogs. These injuries can range from spinal cord damage and whiplash to crushed trachea and difficulty breathing. Further harm can include fractured larynx bones and damage to the esophagus with bruising. Prong collars work by pinching the dog's neck skin when they pull on the leash. Over time, this repeated pinching can lead to the formation of scar tissue, which is less sensitive to pain, causing the dog to gradually ignore the discomfort due to the decreased sensation in that area.

โ—๏ธAny collar that tightens around a dog's neck can cause significant discomfort by restricting their air supply. This not only frightens the dog but can also trigger a fight-or-flight response. Such experiences can lead to long-term fear or even aggressive behaviour in dogs as they try to avoid or escape from similar situations in the future.

Depending on its design, a harness can distribute pressure more evenly across a dog's chest and back. The primary aim of using a harness is to alleviate strain on the neck and help prevent injuries to the trachea, offering a safer and more comfortable alternative to traditional collars.

โš–๏ธNot all harnesses are created equal, and some are specifically designed to discourage pulling by causing discomfort or pain. These types of harnesses may rub, pinch, or tighten when the dog pulls, leading to discomfort and pain. The intention is for the dog to associate pulling with these unpleasant sensations and learn to stop in order to avoid them. Itโ€™s important to avoid harnesses that have straps running straight across the chest, as these can restrict freedom of movement and be uncomfortable for the dog. Additionally, be cautious with harnesses labelled as "no-pull." While they are designed to discourage pulling, some may achieve this by causing discomfort.

When looking for a harness, you need to look for the right size and shape. I personally prefer the โ€˜Yโ€™ shaped harness because the straps of the harness sit far away from the dogโ€™s joints and does not restrict movement from the forelimbs by allowing the shoulder to rotate and the leg to extend forward.
When choosing a harness, look for one that fits well and complements the natural shape of your dog. I personally recommend the 'Y' shaped harness because it's designed with the dog's comfort and mobility in mind. The straps on this type of harness are positioned away from the dogโ€™s joints, making sure they donโ€™t restrict movement. This allows for full shoulder rotation and doesnโ€™t obstruct extension of the front legs, making it ideal for active dogs who need to move freely without discomfort.

If the straps of a harness sit too close to the shoulders, they can interfere with your dog's natural movement. This not only causes discomfort but may also negatively impact your puppy's developmental movement patterns.

โŒHarness to avoid โŒ

Avoid any harness that does not seem to have been designed around the dogโ€™s physiology.

For instance, a harness with a strap across the chest and shoulders can limit your dog's natural movements. It's important to also ensure that the strap around the abdomen doesn't sit too close to the dog's elbows or pinch under the armpits, as this can cause discomfort and restrict movement as well.

Another harness to avoid is anything that works by โ€˜closingโ€™ around the dogโ€™s body (tightening and decreasing is size) when your dog pulls on the leash. This causes pressure and discomfort, and some can even cause pain. The dog then learns to avoid the unpleasant feeling by not pulling. This does not teach your dog to walk nicely, this teaches your dog to avoid pain and discomfort.

I would NOT recommend using a head harness, halti, or head collar. These tools can cause discomfort to the dog's nose when pulling, and in the event of a sudden jerk, they may lead to serious injuries to the face, neck, and spine. Additionally, such discomfort can increase stress and potentially exacerbate behavioural problems rather than solving them

Anything that inflicts pain, discomfort and causes serious physical and emotional damage to the dog should never be used.

โœ… The kindest harness to use for a dog who tends to pull would be a harness shaped in a โ€˜Yโ€™, which has an attachment on the top and front of the harness. A good positive reinforcement trainer can help teach you how to show your dog to walk nicely on leash.

*๐ˆ๐Œ๐๐Ž๐‘๐“๐€๐๐“ ๐๐Ž๐“๐„* Harnesses or collars alone do not resolve behavioural issues like leash pulling, jumping, or reactivity. Science based approaches focusing on positive reinforcement and appropriate environmental management are whats needed to help address these challenges.

A dog pulling on a leash is not an equipment problem; it's a matter of emotional responses, behaviour and appropriate training.

First, identify the underlying emotions and reasons behind your dog's pulling. Next, work on building their confidence and improving their impulse control. Begin training by rewarding the behaviours you wish to encourage instead of reprimanding the behaviours you don't like.

Be patient, be kind, and if you are struggling with this, please find a reputable positive reinforcement trainer in your area.

Another one of my adorable students watching some of my training videos available on my YouTube channel. Thor is a stunn...
12/05/2025

Another one of my adorable students watching some of my training videos available on my YouTube channel.

Thor is a stunning five year old Rottweiler who is currently in my Beginner Life Skills program, and doing amazingly!

Heโ€™s a lucky guy to have such a dedicated family by his side! ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿฅฐ

Such important information! Letโ€™s be considerate of others ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—
12/05/2025

Such important information! Letโ€™s be considerate of others ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—

It feels harmless.
Until he canโ€™t stop himself from dragging you across the park.
He is locked onto that dog and he is determined.

"She just loves all other dogs".
She probably does and it may be manageable now (especially if young) but what is happening now will likely continue.
Easier to manage when she was 5 kilos, not so easy now you have a 30 kilo dog.

The thing is with some labels, they can be used to "minimise" behaviour that we see and continue to allow, but don't really like.
"Social butterfly" is one of those labels which some use to describe reactivity, but people still tend to lean towards allowing this behaviour to continue, day after day in the hope it will get better.
"He will settle down soon"
It is highly unlikely without help as he's learning that pulling harder โ€œworks".
It gets him there and he knows it.

Inside you may know it's an issue, you may have that niggling feeling that it doesn't feel very "social".

"Maybe they will grow out of it?"
Serious question (and I don't mean for it to sound harsh).
When?
When will that magic date on the calendar just click in?
Why would this change for your dog when they are reinforced/rewarded with every tug and pull?

Worst of all, it's not your fault.
I need you to really hear that.
It isn't your fault.
It's societies "obsession" that we must allow dogs to meet all other dogs or they will never ever be a "social butterfly".

So important ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ˜‰
12/05/2025

So important ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ˜‰

"Your dog isn't social".
And?
Do they have to be?
Yours may be "friendly" to a wide variety of dogs but that doesn't mean all dogs should be or need to be.
It doesn't make a dog that is selective any "less".

What about dogs that prefer their people and ignore other dogs?
Should their dog be viewed differently because they choose to ignore other dogs?
They love and adore their human family and for whatever reason, they prefer it this way.
Where is the issue with that?

"He only likes his own breed".
Nothing wrong with that whatsoever.
He is most comfortable with familiar body shapes and body language in dogs that look similar to him and his littermates/family.

"She'll only approach quieter dogs".
That's what she prefers and there can be good reasons for this too.
Maybe she doesn't appreciate boisterous play or perhaps she had a negative experience with a dog whose energy/movements were more unpredictable.

"He likes the "full on" dogs".
Excitement can be contagious and your dog may be attracted to that energy.

Sociability can be fluid too!
As they age and have more experiences it can change where they sit on the very large spectrum.

All of this is natural.
Time to see it as such and stop the preoccupation that all dogs must play with all other dogs to be "social".

Super thrilled to announce the immensely popular Advanced (Field Trips) program was just added to the schedule! Due to s...
12/04/2025

Super thrilled to announce the immensely popular Advanced (Field Trips) program was just added to the schedule!

Due to start on Tuesday evenings January 27th at 7:30pm. Limited to only 5 students and their pups/dogs. An email will be sent out to all the classmates to let them know of the location for the class that night.

To register, please go onto the website below. Thank you,
Amy ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿค—
www.instridedogtraining.com

Below is a previous round of graduates.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6NBqUPOyx0/?igsh=MXVkNDM2dHNnbmd4cA==

Always ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—
12/04/2025

Always ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿถ๐Ÿพ๐Ÿค—

12/04/2025

I do it this way too! ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ™Œ Leave its are always off limits items, and it means come check in for something delicious in return for redirecting towards me ๐Ÿค—

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ™Œ
12/04/2025

Yes ๐Ÿ’–๐Ÿพ๐Ÿถ๐Ÿ™Œ

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01420

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We as our dogโ€™s caregivers want to create an environment in which our dogs will be set up for success and where both parties are having fun doing so! This can be done by creating an easily understandable and predictable sequence of events. For example dogs need rules and clear boundaries to understand what is expected of them. A calm and fair handler will in turn nurture a calm and reliable dog. In my training I use a lure and reward method of training. The lure helps in the acquiring of skills and the reward (treat/toy/praise) helps reinforce the skill just learned. When the dog understands the command the reward allows him/her to know the action was correct. There will be corrections being done in the form of, the removal of the treat, praise, or toy. A leash correction may be done but only if the handler is certain that the dog knows the command but hasnโ€™t followed through.