Trosclair Equine

Trosclair Equine Performance horse breeding, training & sales

12/29/2024
Everyone is starting to get those 2 years olds started for the year, then there’s the ones who don’t show but waited to ...
12/28/2024

Everyone is starting to get those 2 years olds started for the year, then there’s the ones who don’t show but waited to have their older horses started and I often get asked about what do I prefer younger horses? Older? What about the 8/9 year olds? I always have the same answer to me they all start the same…. Each horse is of course and individual but a clean slate is a clean slate whether it be a 2 or 9 year old.

Every horse of course has a unique personality and will all have different learning curves, different strong areas, and different weak areas. I don’t ever have an age preference but I do prefer that if I’m starting one to be the first trainer handling them because the problem typically isn’t age but bad habits formed by inexperienced handling. Often time 2 year olds “seem” easier because they hadn’t had a group of handlers inconsistently putting training on them.

C**t starting is often a very misunderstood title. It has different meanings form being someone’s crash test dummy, to a person who gets on and “yee haws” one around to a person putting a foundational handle on a untrained/unhandled horse. Then you have these c**t starting competitions that give people a false impression of horses can be safe in just a few hours. Not every rider has the same horse goals so there are many different ideas about what a person wants for a training and expects to pay. Some people are just looking to get that young horse safe for them to climb on and trail ride, some are looking for a horse ready to handle performance horse training, and others are looking to see if the horse is going to buck everyone off. I always get a few messages about someone having a c**t with all the ground work done and they are looking to see what it costs for 30 days and my answer is the same, I don’t take anything in for 30 days, it’s not long enough for anything human or animal to learn to build good habits.

Think about it this way, when a horse arrives it takes it a couple days just to get settled in the barn and learn the new schedule, take in its new environment, and learn it’s starting a new curriculum in order to form muscle memory and build good habits. The horse will be starting a program to build that muscle memory and the muscle memory will be what creates good habits. That is not an over night process. Some horses learn quickly and then there’s the ones that could be named “50 first dates” because day after day it’s almost like they start from scratch. Then you have the ones with “ground work” using what ever hotshot clinician of the hours methods the owner may have tried using that has bad habits that will need to be undone. Undoing bad habits and retracting the good ones takes more time. Then you have horses that arrive that need feet done because they have not ever been handled, or under weight, over weight, need teeth floated, or what ever it is they weren’t prepped for before going to the trainer. All of these things are things that slow down progress. You wouldn’t want to take an out of shape human needing training and medical attention and throw them into the Boston Marathon and expect them preform at the top. Yes! There are the few anomalies but that is not the norm and rarely happens! So don’t expect to throw a horse that is not in shape into a full work load.

30 days is honestly about 30 hours of work. If a person works a horse 30 days straight with no days off (which horse and trainer deserve at least 1 day to recover), and for the very least one hour every day that is not enough to build any type of a physical or mental foundation. When I work a young horse I find breaking up sessions helps them mentally absorb the lesson better. A typical session with one c**t maybe, I will get them out and groom, saddle if they are already in that stage. If not we do the prep work, we’ll move their feet around and do all the work to get them saddled, and tie them up. We will come back out and do more prep work to teach them to safely saddle. If they are ready to be saddled we typically groom, saddle and tie them up. That is about 15-20 mins if the horse is cooperative. They will stand tied while I work a couple other horses, then we will put that horse to work. I’ll work the young horse if he is physically capable 45 mins to 1:30 of good physical work. If the horse gets the lesson and things go good we finish sooner than an hour and a half, if they need longer to process we will work with them to be able to understand and end on a good note. Typically most horses get an hour of hard work time. That is not a lot of time on a young horse when you look at it in hours. 30 hours is just not enough for a horse to build a good foundation. Heck I find most horses will go along for the first 3 weeks easy and then right about week 4 or 5 is when they decide they want to try and find ways to not do the work. That is when the real foundation really starts because all the training prior to that was starting to form a habit. It takes a minimum of 60 days for a smart, agreeable, in shape horse to start understanding and retain their training. 90 days is the average time with shorter or longer being an exception.

30 days is a waste of time and money for all involved. Now, let’s talk about what it cost… most do not want to pay for quality. There is a big lack in understanding between most owners and trainers in what it should cost for 30 days and what a person should get for their money. I see people wanting to pay 350.00/30 days for a person to start their c**t. You can not pay a dog trainer to take a dog for a week for that, horse boarding cost more than that at good boarding barns, feed cost more then that for 30 days, people will pay 350.00 for a night out. So why would a person want to basically pay their own money to train your horse? 350.00 wouldn’t even cover feeding a horse in a good work program for 30 days let alone pay for the trainers time so in the long run at a rate of 350.00 per month it costs the trainer money if they are doing the job. A good quality trainer has spent a lot of years and money getting the experience to train a horse, most people use a c**t starter as an insurance policy that they won’t end up in the hospital with broken bones so at the very least they should be worth the cost of the insurance deductible. A good quality trainer in today’s market should cost between 1000.00 to 1500.00 a month. So be ready to pay that because anything less you should definitely look good and hard at the person training and hope they don’t hurt the horse, the owner, or both. If you find a trainer who does a great job, brings along a horse that is soft, kept sound physically and mentally, and cost less than 800.00 send them my way, I’ll definitely utilize them. Again for those who say I used so and so… it’s a rare find to find one who will do what I describe as a good foundation.

Now what you should get for your money. That is also something that is often miscommunicated. I’m going to presuppose that a person did their home work and vetted the trainer to ensure they will be paying a knowledgeable quality trainer. A trainer should have a quality feed program, offer safe shelter, and a minimum of 5 days a week of work, with the horse being handled/worked a minimum of 1 hour each of those days. When I start a never handled horse in a good physical condition my goal is to have that horse saddled and the beginning stages of mounting in the first week. Some may go faster but some may take longer. My goal is to have that horse in 30 days understand manners, how to accept the basic ground work, accepting a saddle, accepting a person to mount, and the beginning concept of understanding reining, while keeping correct biomechanics. I will not let a horse move out incorrectly. By that I mean they are not to be allowed to move out on the wrong lead, cross firing, arced incorrectly, yanking on hands, etcetera. We will work on each thing and will not move to the next until it’s correctly preformed by the horse. If I’m ground working a horse and he can not travel to the left on the correct lead, we will work on that lead before we move on to the next stage in training. We DO NOT BUILD BAD HABITS or incorrect muscle memory. It is things that have to be undone and undoing bad things to build good habits takes more time. We train using the most minimal pressure it takes to reach the horse, we can work them to inspiration or desperation and I can tell you that desperation never turns out good for anyone involved. Traning should be a slow and often boring process. Drama is for TV sitcoms (I don’t dare say the name of the show) and teenage girls, not in the training pen. Slow doesn’t mean not riding the horse for 6 months, it means teaching the horse at the rate that is best for the individual horse to learn to be soft, safe, and confident. The saying that slow is fast is a true statement. I often say the first 60 days of work seems to be slow but at the end of 90 days a person typically will have a horse that can do what most other horses hadn’t learned in a year. By 90 days I’m looking for a horse to confidently understand ground manners, saddling, warming up, walk, trot, and lope on the correct lead, upward and downward transitions, stop, back, start of a turn around, and learning body positions to start setting them up for more advanced maneuvers all with nice contract on a rein. The horse should start to have the understanding of confidence out away from the barn, herd, arena. That is for the average horse that came in good physical shape, and no bad habits. I have had them learn quickly just as I have had the ones take more time but the average horse can learn from an experienced trainer the good basic foundation in 90 days.

Starting a c**t is a dying art because most people want to pay crash test dummy prices but expect horses ready to go into a show pen in only 30 days. If a trainer offers or promises that, run!

Most performance horse trainers will start and train the horses that come in. We do it so we know the horse has a good foundation and doesn’t come in hard mouthed with bad biomechanics. Most people’s first questions is how much? The next one is how many rides will he have in 30, 60, 90 days? How long will you ride each day? When will I get to come ride? Well, I can’t answer that. Training by good trainers isn’t a the hourly thing, it’s not a calculated planning thing. Trainers train horses through repetition and we move on when we feel the horse has a good understanding of what it is they are learning. Feel is not something we can put a time frame on because every horse will have a different feel. I have honestly had horses I had to work for hours, sure I give them small breaks to air back up but it’s has taken hours for them to get the simplest thing, then I have had the ones that pick up the most advance task in minutes. I cannot tell you which horse you have until I have worked with it for at the very least a couple weeks. I can not guarantee you that your horse will pick every task up daily the same way they did the day before. Horse training is not something a person just gets up and does one day, horse training is something a person learns to feel through time. Feel is a talent but a talent developed over time.
So I’m going to say this and make a few people mad most 15 year old kids do not have the necessary experience to understand the timing and feel needed to train a horse. Yes they may have ridden their whole life, they might stick good but most do not have nice soft horses. Another thing is people can not watch videos and then one day become a horse trainer. Feel comes through spending years learning how to understand feeling the horse and knowing how to recognize when to feel the right thing and feel the wrong thing, and knowing how to give reward or make the correction. Having experienced
trainers helping you learn how to do the right thing and recognize how to feel the horse is essential for a person to become a good trainer. Years of learning from other advanced trainers, years learning from mistakes, learning to recognize the mistakes to not make them again, years of hard work, years of experience builds talent. Yes there is the extremely rare person born with a gift of being able to just pick up doing any task, those people are extremely rare. Most of the extremely talented people in anything will tell you they were not born gifted they worked hard to develop their talent. Talent isn’t given it’s earned! I spent years learning, years working, years making mistakes, years of discipline, hard work, years being humble, years having more failures than accomplishments, lots of tears, lots of sacrifices. Many nights missing out on social events, early mornings, late nights, stepped on toes, eating dirt, having equipment that I had to McGiver together to keep going, paying my own money, and ignoring all the haters. I have worked for years to be able to know how to keep your horse physically and mentally safe in order to lay the foundation to keep you safe and build a horse with foundation to have a good handle in 90 +/- hours. Most people expect to pay their trainers less than what a plumber makes, less than the guy at subway for a job that means life or death for all parties involved. Client’s are paying a trainer because they don’t want to get bucked off and hurt, well where we don’t either there’s always a risk. Good trainers typically will have the experience to be able to handle training the horse in order to stay safe. If your trainer tells you a horse needs more time then remember they are the ones who spent years learning to listen to the horse so you should trust your trainer and listen to them. I’m talking about good quality trainers because you already did your homework and your horse is with the correct trainer. The beginning of your horse’s education is the most important steps, it’s the foundation layer in order to build a horse into the perfect team mate for whatever discipline it will move on to. For those who say in just want a trail horse so I don’t need a fancy trainer. Remember this, trail riding horses need to have the best handle of any discipline because those horses don’t have the safety of the arena and the gates. They have the most extreme environment to navigate and anything can pop out at anytime. The trees, cliffs, holes, can be just a run off away. Trail horses need to whoa faster than a reining horse. All horses need to have the ability to understand how to properly use all 5 body parts on the slightest touch from the rider in order to be safe. That ability begins from the first time that a horse is touched by human hands and that is why a good c**t starter/trainr needs to be experienced, appreciated, and trusted.


**tstarting








Written By: Michelle Gilles
Photo: extra groundwork with 2 yr old Boujee by Design.

Thankful for the push and invite to ride today from a friend. V8 took his first training trailer ride today (his last tr...
12/12/2024

Thankful for the push and invite to ride today from a friend. V8 took his first training trailer ride today (his last trailer ride was to the vet, so hopefully he’ll learn trailers aren’t always bad). He was wide eyed and behaved typical of a young horse at a new place. He settled after some groundwork, then when he was calm and ready, he wore the saddle the third time. No silly business except some of his silly attitude. The dude is a trip 😂

Written by Amy Skinner  “When you pay for a lesson or training, you aren’t buying an hour of my time. You’re paying for ...
12/04/2024

Written by Amy Skinner “When you pay for a lesson or training, you aren’t buying an hour of my time. You’re paying for thousands of hours of sweat, struggle, success and tears. You’re buying injuries, mistakes, and revelations. You’re buying nights awake thinking about a horse or student I need to help more, thinking about what could be bothering a certain horse. Searching on the internet about possible medical causes for certain behaviours. You’re paying for the time i spend updating owners late at night about how their horse is doing. For the emotional toll it sometimes takes on a trainer when an owner is dealing with big emotions. You’re buying hours of hauling hay, mucking stalls and grooming, of carefully checking your horse over like It was my own. You’re paying for my further education, because i still take lessons as frequently as possible. You’re paying for my care, concern, over dinner conversation, and you inevitably become a central part of my life.
You can’t put a price on education, or personal development, or the bliss of finally being “with” a horse. Thank you for sharing with me, teaching me, and letting me teach you, while I put food on my table and hay in my barn with the most fulfilling job ever. “❤️

11/26/2024

A good technique I wish I had when I had a draft in for training much like this guy. He was a gentle giant, till he wasn’t. Knew he was stronger than humans and was unpredictable.

11/22/2024

Perfectly said. It’s about the progress and relationship for me.

This is going to ruffle a lot of feathers… I’m posting this to bring awareness to the general public as I’ve literally s...
11/20/2024

This is going to ruffle a lot of feathers…

I’m posting this to bring awareness to the general public as I’ve literally seen more ignorance lately than I can begin to comprehend.

Unless you eat sleep and breathe horses, you will never get any better. - this means riding once a week won’t do you any good (or your horse!).

Riding a horse is literally only 20% of horse ownership. Knowledge is power. Consult those who have been in the industry a long time for your first several years of horse ownership.

Proper nutrition is key. There are lots of opinions out there, and we all know about what those are like. 🤷🏼‍♀️
Again consult those who have been in the industry a long time for your first several years of horse ownership. Look for advice from those whose horses look and perform well.

Most of the time, your kid (or you) doesn’t ride as well as you think they do, they don’t need a high powered 1d horse that you can’t care for. 🤷🏼‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️

Keep asking questions… but don’t be an ask-hole! because if you think you know everything you need to, then you probably should quit while you are ahead.

HORSES ARE EXPENSIVE. If you can’t plan to shell out at least 650$-$1500 a month… hang it up now.

There are NO SHORTCUTS to properly caring for horses.

We can all enjoy horses, but sometimes we need to look at the whole picture and assess if we want to just take a lesson once a week and enjoy them , which is totally okay, or we really want to make an investment.

END RANT
(Written by Kayla Kaminski White)

After finding our groove the last couple weeks, this weekend was definitely not what I had planned. Despite the disappoi...
11/11/2024

After finding our groove the last couple weeks, this weekend was definitely not what I had planned. Despite the disappointing performance from myself and zesty not turning the first like she normally does, we improved this weekend- not in time but in experience. We came back from two disappointing runs to a slower, but clean run. I learned to run her in a different bit without being overzealous. I forced myself to jockey her two handed to the third and let go of the horn on the way home. Win. Zesty doesn’t do well staying overnight and as usual she quit eating her food. By Sunday, she was tired but settled down and started eating. Win. I thank the Lord every day for the privilege to be able to do this, no matter how we do. I’m blessed and thankful. ❤️

11/05/2024

Nothing about becoming the best version of yourself is going to be convenient.

Read that again:

Nothing about becoming the best version of yourself is going to be convenient.

It won’t be easy to be the best you, you can be.

It won’t be easy to be the best rider you can be.

But doing the things that will make you better: reading the self help book, paying for fitness coaching, driving hours to ride in clinics, or an hour for a weekly riding lesson, skipping 6 barrel races to send your horse for more education, talking to a therapist - whatever those “things” are for you — it will 100% be worth it in the end.

Success is always an uphill climb, but for many folks, they have downhill habits, and downhill discipline.

Rent on the best version of yourself is due everyday.

Discipline to do the things that will result in the best version of you, is doing uncomfortable, inconvenient things, to get that 1% better — to learn a new skill, gain a new tool, practice a new mindset.

The best version of you isn’t convenient but it will be worth it.

Do you have uphill or downhill habits? Will you make the hard choices? Will you skip the barrel race to take the clinic, or the lessons? What are you doing to better yourself as a human?

10/26/2024
10/24/2024

𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗶𝗻 𝗧𝗮𝗹𝗸 𝗔𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀
I want to lay out a straightforward bitting system for those seeking clarity on what equipment might best suit their needs. It’s a subject I’m passionate about because it’s a source of so much doubt and confusion among horse owners. There are millions of different opinions and options, and that endless complexity around what bit to start a horse in, or what bit to move into as they advance, can be intimidating. Instead of endless complexity, I favor a simple, proven progression that reduces headache and saves you money. Let’s break it down...

𝗦𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁 𝗦𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗗𝗶𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁

In our training program, we start under saddle with a heavy emphasis on direct rein work. Think "follow your nose" and lateral flexion concepts. The cornerstone here is simplicity and directness. No leverage at all. I believe it's crucial that there's no complex pressure or mechanical advantage affecting the horse's mouth. This means using a traditional snaffle bit with a single joint—nothing fancy, just a direct connection that allows for clear communication.

Over the years, I've found that a loose ring snaffle (pictured) with a single joint is the most effective tool across a vast array of horses — well over a thousand at this point. These aren't the flimsy snaffles you might pick up at the local feed store. The ones I prefer are heavier and made of higher quality steel. The weight and quality of these bits not only makes them more durable, it has a positive impact on how the horse responds.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗱𝘃𝗮𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗮 𝗙𝗿𝗲𝗲-𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗥𝗶𝗻𝗴

One thing I really like is a free-sliding ring on the snaffle. This design ensures there's absolutely ZERO binding or twisting action when I apply pressure by picking up the reins. Fixed rings, like those on a D-ring snaffle, can sometimes create unintended leverage which I don’t need or want at the beginning stages of training. If I happen to be using a D-ring, I’ll often use rope reins instead of leather splits, with a small slobber strap that moves up and down on the ring when the rein is pulled; preventing any binding or leveraging action that might occur.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗮𝘀𝗲 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗛𝗲𝗮𝘃𝗶𝗲𝗿 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀

Weightier snaffles (like the one pictured) seem to encourage horses, especially young ones, to hold the bit properly in their mouths. The added weight provides more substance for the horse to feel and carry, reducing behaviors like excessive chewing, chomping, or head tossing. Lightweight, cheaply made bits lack this quality. They can flop around in the horse's mouth, leading to irritation and distracted behaviors. This often leads horse owners down rabbit trails where they begin experimenting with different mouthpieces; dogbones, rollers, low port “comfort snaffles” for tongue relief…. trying to solve problems that can actually be solved through a combination of better training, better feel and timing, and a well-crafted heavier snaffle.

𝗠𝘆 𝗕𝗶𝘁 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗴𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻: 𝗙𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗦𝗺𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗵 𝘁𝗼 𝗦𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗲 (𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗡𝗲𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗮𝗿𝘆)

In my tack room, you'll find a simple progression of bits that I use depending on the horse's needs:

👉 𝗦𝗺𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗵 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: This is my go-to for most horses. It's straightforward and effective for teaching and reinforcing basic cues.

👉 𝗥𝗲𝗴𝘂𝗹𝗮𝗿 𝗧𝘄𝗶𝘀𝘁 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: If a horse starts leaning on the bit or developing resistance, I might step up to this. The twist adds a slight increase in pressure without being overly harsh.

👉 𝗦𝗾𝘂𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: This bit has square edges instead of round, providing a more pronounced feel that discourages a horse from leaning.

For extreme cases—typically with problem horses that have ingrained bad habits—I have a 𝗧𝗵𝗶𝗻 𝗦𝗾𝘂𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗧𝘄𝗶𝘀𝘁 (thinner than the regular twist, but NOT as thin as the twisted wire snaffles you often see in training barns) and, in the most severe situations, a 𝗖𝗼𝗿𝗸𝘀𝗰𝗿𝗲𝘄. Let me be clear: these are NOT bits I use lightly or frequently. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of times I've had to use the corkscrew in the past four years. They're tools for spot-treating serious issues, not everyday training.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗘𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗰𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗨𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗠𝗼𝗿𝗲 𝗦𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀

Using a more severe bit is a responsibility I don't take lightly. When a horse has learned to ignore or outright resist bridle pressure—usually due to previous mishandling—it becomes a safety issue. In such cases, a stronger bit can help re-establish respect for and responsiveness to the aids. But the goal is always to “get in and get out” – be effective, teach the lesson, then step back down to a milder bit once the issue is addressed.

I think where controversy arises is when people use severe bits as a shortcut, and leave them on the horse indefinitely. This approach can ruin the sensitivity in a horse's mouth over time, leading to a cycle where increasingly harsh equipment is needed to achieve the same effect. That's not fair to the horse, and it's not good horsemanship.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 "𝗡𝘂𝘁𝗰𝗿𝗮𝗰𝗸𝗲𝗿 𝗘𝗳𝗳𝗲𝗰𝘁” 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝗠𝗮𝗿𝗸𝗲𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗚𝗶𝗺𝗺𝗶𝗰𝗸𝘀

There's a lot of misinformation out there about bits, particularly the traditional single-jointed snaffle. Some argue that it creates a "nutcracker" effect on the horse's jaw bone or “spears” upward into the roof of the mouth. I remember being swayed by such claims early in my career. A salesperson demonstrated this by placing a snaffle over my forearm and pulling, causing discomfort. It was a persuasive, albeit misleading, demonstration.

But here's the thing: the orientation and pressure applied in that demonstration don't reflect how a snaffle bit actually works in a horse's mouth. When properly fitted and used, a single-jointed snaffle doesn't pinch the jaw or stab the palate. It's essential to understand the anatomy of the horse's mouth and the mechanics of bit pressure. Misleading demonstrations like this prey on our concerns for our horses' well-being, pushing us toward expensive equipment that may not be necessary.

I fell into that trap once, investing in a specialized bit that promised to solve all my problems. Initially, it seemed to work, but the issues soon resurfaced because the root cause wasn't the bit—it was my technique. I hadn't yet developed the skill and timing needed to communicate effectively with the horse. Changing bits was a temporary fix that didn't address the underlying training issues.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗹𝗹𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗤𝘂𝗶𝗰𝗸 𝗙𝗶𝘅𝗲𝘀 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗜𝗺𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗸𝗶𝗹𝗹

It's tempting to look for quick fixes when we encounter problems in training. Bits, being tangible and varied, often become the focus of our attention. We convince ourselves that the right piece of equipment will solve our issues. But more often than not, the solution lies in improving our skills and understanding.

I've seen trainers with tack rooms full of bits, constantly switching them out in hopes of finding the magic combination. To me, that’s a sign of someone who's run out of ideas. They’re trying to feel like they’re being productive, and are just throwing everything at the wall to see what sticks. But without addressing the fundamental training and communication between horse and rider, these efforts are largely in vain.

That's not to say experimentation is bad—on the contrary, trying different approaches can be valuable. But it's crucial to recognize when we're using equipment as a crutch rather than developing our abilities.

𝗘𝗺𝗯𝗿𝗮𝗰𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗦𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗶𝘁𝘆 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗲𝗿𝘀𝗼𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗼𝗻𝘀𝗶𝗯𝗶𝗹𝗶𝘁𝘆

Over the years, I've pared down my collection to a handful of bits that I know work effectively across a broad spectrum of horses. My favorite everyday tools are:

👌 𝗧𝗵𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝗧𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲𝘀: Smooth, regular twist, and square.

👌 𝗧𝗵𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝗧𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗸 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀: Short shank, low-port correction for transitioning; an Avila shank medium port correction; and a Jeremiah Watt “frog mouth” with roller.

This simplicity isn't just about economics—though I certainly didn't have the budget for dozens of fancy bits when I started! It’s mainly about effectiveness.

Each of the three snaffles represents a clear “step up” in the tactile difference and feel they create. There are clear enough contrasts between them, that it’s easy to decide which one is called for depending on the horse’s level of responsiveness.

Same thing with the shank bits. Aside from the short shank correction with a low square port – which is the universal bit that I use to transition every horse out of the snaffle – there’s enough tactile difference between the regular correctional and the frog mouth that it’s easy to know which one the horse will respond better to. Some horses are ready to move to the cowhorse bridle right away. Others stay in the correctional much longer before moving on.

Is there additional flexibility and experimentation allowed within this three-act structure? Of course. I have other bits that I use occasionally. But those 3 shank bits are the everyday staples. They form the core of our progression toward riding straight up in the bridle.

The bottom line is that every single horse I’ve ever put in the bridle – whether they were a reiner, cowhorse, or ranch horse – has responded extremely well to those bits after graduating from our snaffle program. The more experience I’ve gained over the years, the more I’ve concluded that the actual bit matters less than most people think it does. At that point, the horse is so well trained in a snaffle that you could probably put anything on them and get good results. The bit is just the icing on the cake, its the foundation proceeding it that makes the difference.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗪𝗼𝗿𝗱

I want to emphasize that this is what works for me. I'm not here to dictate that everyone must follow my exact system. Different approaches can be effective. However, be aware that while everything “works”, not everything WORKS. I encourage you to be thoughtful and critical about the equipment you use. Don't let marketing tactics or the allure of a quick fix divert you from developing your skills and understanding your horse.

It's easy to get lost in the myriad of options and opinions out there. I've been there myself, and I've learned that often the simplest solutions are the most effective. So, take the time to build a proper foundation with your horse. Focus on clear, direct communication. The bit you use is just one part of a much larger picture. I’ll sum it up by saying:

𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹, 𝗯𝘂𝘁 𝗻𝗼𝘁 𝗮𝘀 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗮𝘀 𝗼𝗻𝗲 𝗺𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗸.

As a horseman, the best tools you have are your hands, your legs, and above all your brain!



🖋️ 𝐽𝑎𝑘𝑒 𝐿𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑎ℎ𝑙

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