12/28/2023
Reactive dogs. I love working with them.
This graphic looks a bit complicated....but looks can be deceiving. The idea is sound and simple and if you have a reactive dog this can change everything.
I know some of the terminology used by some in the industry is complicated....and this page will always try to break down often difficult/complex issues so they can be more easily understood......because understanding this concept will change how you work with your reactive dog.
Desensitisation and Counter conditioning
There is a measurable scale of rising emotions and/or stress with reactive dogs, this is measured by your own dogs body language and behaviour. At the lower numbers (1-4).... your dog is happy to view a trigger (another dog, car, horse etc) at a distance they feel comfortable with and you reward that calm looking.
Rewarding that calm looking is called counter conditioning, you are pairing something positive (such as food or a toy) and this will (over time) change how they feel about a trigger. This is a well timed reward.
Distance is needed for all of this (and every dogs distance is different....some have huge distances as a starting point).
These low level numbers are where you can desensitise your dog to their triggers (what they react to).
When your dog is reaching a level of 5 (going over threshold).....your dog is about to react, their body language is changing ......you need distance (quickly) to get back to those lower numbers again.
When your dog is reacting, desensitation work is very unlikely to work....they are unlikely to listen, focus or stop reacting unless you get distance.....distance is key with this work.
Over time and if you can have far more "low number looks" at your dogs triggers (and keep reactions minimal)....your dog will be able to view triggers more closely (reducing distance) and not react. Every dogs time frame is different and every dogs distance is also different.
Many clients attempt desensitisation when their dog is already over their threshold.....and the trigger is way too close.
We cannot dictate where to start this work....your dogs body language will let you know.
If your dog needs 20 metres from another dog to be at a 2 - 3 great !
If they need 50 metres from a trigger to be at a low level, then insisting on a closer interaction will not help them, they decide what is too close to a trigger...not us.
Distraction is NOT a long term solution for reactivity.....it sometimes has its place, but hiding and distraction are very temporary "solutions”.
If you have a reactive dog, there is hope, you can do this!
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