Resilient Equine

01/25/2025

Deworming for bots is essential ‼️

I hate bot larvae.
I see them quite often at whole horse dissections and when the larvae detach from the stomach wall, they leave behind deep holes.

These holes are about 2 mm deep.

The part of the stomach that we see is the non glandular part. It is the upper part and is not acid secreting.
You can just about see the glandular part which is pinkish in the photo.

Bot larvae seem to choose the non glandular part but I do see them at the margin between these 2 parts which is called the Margo plicata. Rarely they are found in the glandular layer as that part has a very low pH is acidic due to hydrochloride acid.

I really feel bot latvae are a problem because when they detach, the holes left behind are at risk from the acid splashing up onto that area. This I believe could destroy tissue and cause ulcers.

My showcase of my hoof and whole horse dissections:
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01/24/2025

Equines and losing their herd mates.
Most equines don’t process death in the same way we do, but its important to understand how they look at it.
Firstly its they way they understand it, they can watch it but it does not mean much, it’s the smell that tells them. So horses should be allowed to smell their departed friend, this is two part, firstly its for them to work out they have died, second part is they will be smelling for adrenalin and endorphins. Generally animals don’t fear death but they fear pain and the process of dying, which if most people are honest is the same for us, most people don’t fear death it’s the getting there, when its your time most people just hope its instant or they go in their sleep, animals are often the same.
You can put a horse down with another one watching and they will often finish their bucket of food before they go to investigate why their mate is laying down. Then they smell a lot around the dead one and if there is no adrenalin or endorphins then they died quickly and were not attacked, so nothing to worry about, even though they saw it the nose overrides all other senses, (hence why horses dislike the wind, stops them smelling in one direction)
So how do we help the horses, ponies etc accept the death of a herd member.
Time is the most important thing, giving them long enough to investigate.
The best thing is to put down the horse in an area that’s safe to let their heard mates into afterwards loose.
This is because some horses run “tests” to check they are dead, this will involve walking in arcs up to them, running away in short bursts (trying to get a flight response) grazing next to dead ones head, pawing with hooves, sometimes biting. If there is some blood they will often put on their nose or taste it, again checking for adrenalin or endorphins to ensure that they are safe and it was not a lion hiding in hedge that killed it. They will then walk away grazing and return about 3 times, after this they accept it and just walk away.
The time it takes varies on the position in herd of the one that’s dies, (one that has been pushed out of herd due to being ill the others will only take 20min to accept as they were expecting it, on other hand if it’s the leader of herd that unexpectedly died, accident etc, it takes far longer as no one is giving instructions so the upset is 2 fold this might take a hour and a half to accept whilst sniffing)
Also the breed is big factor, Shetland ponies for example only take a few minutes (they appear hard and uncaring often due to this) where a thoroughbred or Arab takes on average 45min to accept.
Leading a horse up to dead one tends to slow process down or sometimes they don’t understand at all as they will try to feed of body language of the one who’s leading them and we are not good at horse body language. If there is no choice due to are its still better then not showing them at all but its best done with long lead rope and keeping it as loose as possible to allow the horse to jump around as remember this is partly how they work it out.
The more horses in the herd the quicker they will figure out that’s one died but its nothing to worry about as they will look to each other.
Some special cases, donkeys are terrible at being so attached they one died they will pine to death, so they need another animal for company when their mate goes and we find they should have a least 12 hours with their deceased friend, this is why when we put down donkeys we recommend they we put it down one day and we will come back next day to collect, even trough this means 2 trips.
Mares when they lose their foals (or if foal pts ) again if we have put foal down and you are not going to foster mother then its best to do it and leave foal in stable for example where mother has free access, it can take her up to 48hr to realize her foal is dead and not just sleeping at which time she will bury it and its then safe to remove it without causing any upset.
All of this is why we allow at least a hour and a half for every horse we are putting down but are prepared to wait even longer if needed, 2 part it ensure the euthanasia is never rushed so we can ensure its instant and best as it can be but also the grieving process is vital to any other horse that are part of hear if they were attached. And the more time they have with their field mate who passed on the better.
If you have very closely bonded herd I’m always happy to discuss what’s the best way not only for the one who’s going but also for what’s best for their companions.
This photo shows a group of horses checking out their sadly deceased field mate, no stress just working it out and accepting it.

*edit*
I will add that the times I have said are different horse to horse and it's the time it takes them to normally understand the their friend has died and not just injured or sleeping.
Once they accept this they will then start to greve, like people some horses will take a few hour, some a few days and some a couple of weeks to get over a major change to their herd. But it's much better when they know what's happening to the other option my friend is missing and they will keep looking sometimes for months..

01/19/2025

In OT school I had a professor thrill us (😉) with the phrase “proximal stability equals distal mobility” very often.

I had no idea how much value that phrase would really hold in my work, and I don’t even treat humans anymore. 😆

👉🏻Proximal - situated nearer to the center of the body

👈🏻Distal - situated away from the center of the body

If you’re not stable at your core, you don’t have much control over the movements far away from your core.

🏄‍♀️ If I’m on a surfboard, I’ll give you a terrible high five.

🖐🏻If I’m on concrete I’ll give you a fantastic high five.

The translation from what I see in horses is this:
Spine and core stability equals correct leg and foot placement.

If the spine is out of balance, both the nervous system and the soft tissue suffer.

The nerves exit the spinal cord and go to work for the rest of the body. If there’s a problem at the exit ramp, the rest of the nerve won’t be working correctly either.

The soft tissue gets tangled and torqued just by trying to protect its own spine. The tensegrity is compromised for the sake of protection.

Foot placement is the last of your horse’s priorities if they’re trying to stabilize their spine (that you’re sitting on) and core.

They might stumble or trip, they seem like they’re not listening.

🏄‍♀️ If you’re asking your horse to give you a high five while they’re on a surfboard, good luck.

I can accidentally land a high five every now and then from a surfboard too. But mainly I’m just trying to stay upright.

All correct movement comes from a balanced spine, supported by a strong core.

✍🏻 Proximal stability equals distal mobility.

01/19/2025

Do you know that a vast majority of plastic buckets we use with horses still contain BPA?

Buckets containing BPA (bisphenol A) are harmful for feeding and watering horses for several important reasons:

1. Chemical Leaching
BPA is a chemical used in the production of certain plastics, particularly polycarbonate plastics. Over time, especially when exposed to heat, sunlight, or wear and tear, BPA can leach from the plastic into the food or water inside the container. Horses may ingest small amounts of this chemical when drinking or eating from the bucket, leading to potential health risks.

2. Endocrine Disruption
BPA is a well-known endocrine disruptor, meaning it can interfere with the body's hormone system. In both animals and humans, BPA can mimic or block hormones like estrogen, leading to hormonal imbalances. For horses, hormonal disruptions could impact their growth, fertility, and reproductive health, and may even affect their behavior or overall wellbeing.

3. Long-Term Health Risks
Prolonged exposure to BPA has been linked to a variety of long-term health problems, including:

Reproductive issues: BPA exposure may cause problems with fertility, gestation, and the development of offspring.
Developmental abnormalities: Especially in younger horses, BPA exposure can interfere with normal growth and development.
Increased cancer risk: Some studies suggest that long-term exposure to BPA might increase the risk of certain types of cancer.

4. Compromised Immune Function
BPA can also weaken the immune system, making horses more susceptible to infections, illnesses, and overall stress. A compromised immune system can be especially harmful to horses in high-stress environments or those with pre-existing health issues.

5. Degradation of Plastic
Plastics containing BPA tend to degrade over time, especially with exposure to UV rays from the sun or extreme temperatures. As the plastic breaks down, it may release higher amounts of harmful chemicals into the food or water, and the material itself becomes more brittle and prone to cracking or breaking. This increases the likelihood of physical injury to the horse if they come into contact with damaged buckets.

6. Possible Toxicity
Although the amount of BPA that leaches from plastic into food or water is typically low, even small doses over time can accumulate, leading to potential toxic effects. Toxicity symptoms in horses could include gastrointestinal upset, changes in behavior, lethargy, or neurological issues, depending on the exposure level.

7. Availability of Safer Alternatives
With growing awareness of the risks of BPA, there are now many safer alternatives available, such as BPA-free plastic containers, stainless steel buckets, or rubberized buckets. These materials are durable, non-toxic, and do not pose the same health risks to horses.

12/21/2024

“Behavior modification DOES NOT equal emotional regulation”

‘STAY WITH ME’

The intention to connect, not correct, makes a big difference to our horses.

If I have a horse who is distracted, scanning the horizon, looking anywhere BUT me, this tells me I am not providing them the connection they need to feel safe.

These horses will often have a hair trigger, their hypervigilence tipping into reactivity with the slightest change.

If working in prison Corrections taught me one thing, it’s that Behavior Modification DOES NOT equal emotional regulation.

That’s why punishment doesn’t work.

It’s also why positive reinforcement doesn’t always work.

A horse needs to feel safe and grounded with us, as if we are their surrogate herd, and that requires we look beyond behavior.

If we settle for changing their behavior, but never seek to change their mind, we often end up with incongruence… a battle between feeling and action.

If we want harmony in the relationship, we have to aim higher than the discord of behavior management.

Often, this is a simple as staying with the moment long enough we re-connect, tuning in to the tensions or relaxation we notice in one other.

That’s attunement.

12/10/2024

The myth of alignment and even symmetry!!!

Send a message to learn more

12/10/2024

12/08/2024

I saw a question on a state equine group today asking what was best to feed a senior horse.

Much of the advice was well intended, but a lot of it was not great.

It reminded me we've not shared a senior horse feeding guide in quite a long time.

When Your Old Horse is Struggling with Weight: What to Do

Aged horses (and this can mean 19 in some, 30 in others) begin to wear their teeth down, even if maintained and floated well their whole lives.

This means

Round bale hay often isn’t a good choice because of the type of hay usually baled for rounds and the length of the cut when baled. Aged horses may not be able to pull, chew and make as much use of the round bales.

Square bales of hay are a better choice for a while, especially if soft and exceptionally high in quality, over round bales, but many senior horses eventually cannot chew the hay well enough to get sufficient nutrition. They need bagged/chopped hay, soaked pellets or soaked cubes.

Grass, when high, often allows seniors the ability to easily pick and chew, if they have some usable jaw teeth, but as pastures are eaten down or grasses begin to die off, your old horse is going to often not keep up with the younger equines, weight wise.

Horses need 2-3% of their IDEAL body weight a day in food. And the truth is, just because it seems they are cleaning up the hay and grain, it doesn’t mean they are getting enough nutrition out of it, if they aren't chewing it well.

Transition to a senior feed. Make sure it is a good quality feed. Often, low end brands are not sufficient, especially if your horse is struggling with weight.

Feeding an aged horse can be VERY, VERY Expensive. You are talking 30lbs of BOTH soaked feed and chopped hay a day in seniors with few or no useable teeth, and at $30, on average, per 40-50lbs of either of these, you may be paying upwards of $900-1,500 a month (depending on size of horse) in feed alone. 30lbs of slushy gruel a day will usually get your senior, if otherwise healthy, where he needs to be.

Horses do not always like wet or soupy food. It may take creativity to get your horse eating well. We like to break the feeding down into at least 3 offerings a day.

Ulcers may develop in horses not getting enough forage or who have gotten underweight, so if your senior is already too thin, treating for 28 days with actual ulcer medication is very needed to get the horse back on the right track. This can be purchased in a few ways, from the paste given at a whole tube a day, to a compounded powder to Abler.com granules, but treatment the full course of 28 days is important at the right dose.

Ask your vet to check your horse for Cushings. Many times, weight loss in the aged horse, or odd weight distribution, is Cushings. We’ve heard some experts suggest that all senior horses, at one point, will experience some level of this disease. Your horse may need medication, or at least, diet changes, to cope. DO NOT ASSUME Your horse does not have it. Ask your vet to test your aged horse if you have any symptoms at all.

Seniors can get picked on when they aren’t thriving. Make sure you’re allowing your old horse access to the amount and right type of feed/hay for enough time without competition to eat all he needs – which is, again, 2-3% of his ideal body weight a day in feeds he can actually chew and digest.

Organ failure: eventually, many aged horses will go into organ failure. Some organs show on blood testing, while heart failure can need more invasive testing, and if your horse is failing, despite all feeding and management efforts, you may have a horse with a failing body. Please do not let your old horse waste away. Contact your vet and make a kind choice for him before he wastes away

Years ago, our ancestors had no resources or way to cater to the needs of their old horses. We do, so age isn’t an excuse for emaciation in the senior equine anymore.

11/28/2024

I wish horses would yelp like dogs do

11/27/2024

As someone who struggles with thoracic inlet/outlet issues, I can attest to the myriad of issues that trickle downstream of these compressions. This downstream area is also known as "the terrain" in osteopathy.

Rough terrain brings restrictions,
restrictions bring congestions,
congestions bring impedence,
reduced vascularity,
and so on.

When enough pileups occur and dysfunction of normal flow is prolonged, pathology develops.

Send a message to learn more

11/20/2024

One of the Mentorships on offer in 2025 will be focused on Care & Keeping.

We will shelve discussions on horsemanship and horse training for the most part and focus on:
- Hoofcare
- Environment/Habitat (Whether you have horses at home or board)
- Natural & Healthy Management of Horses
- Basic Handling / Life Skills
- Feeding
- Enrichment

And so much more.

This intimate mentorship will be for a maximum of 5 people, and will run for a minimum of 3 months, with the option to extend the program for longer for those who would like to continue.

This program is perfect for you if
- You are boarding and want to figure out ingenious ideas to make your horses lifestyle better, within the confines of what is allowed by your facility
- You keep horses at home and are struggling with body condition (over or under), herd integration problems, feeding choices, etc
- Want to explore super fun and creative ways to make your horses life healthier, more interesting, fun, and better for you to manage
- Want to learn to trim your horses and support their hoofcare yourself (Yep I am rolling this service into this mentorship)

I will be stewarding this group and will invite surprise guest instructors for the group coaching calls to drop by and add to the quality of our work together. Of course, anytime I invite a collaborator, I pay them for their time. No extra charge to you however.

This mentorship will include access to relevant self study courses, guaranteed one private lesson per month, two group coaching calls per month, private group chat (I will be in your pocket when you need me), and you will be able to book additional privates, when they are available, with priority access to the schedule when slots open up.

All my clients enjoy 24/7 administration support from Kathrin, and free tech calls, where we will help you understand how to use digital technology so we can maximise your support and learning.

At this stage, we are just taking expressions of interest, I will be offering four mentorship groups, each with a unique focus.

More details, prices etc will be available early December (So, very soon).

If you have already put you name down on the waitlist, we are already considering if this group is suitable for you. If you have not, you can drop your name down below. You can always put your name on it again, if you are not sure!

11/12/2024

This is a post I have been waiting to see. 🙏🏼

🐴 DID I JOIN UP OR GIVE UP ☹️

I am in a round yard, it is small and the fence seems high. I feel like I can’t escape. There is a person in the middle, he seems calm and doesn’t seem to be doing much but I feel that something is wrong. I can feel that things are going to happen, I can feel that this person has a plan for me. He asks me to move forward around him. I move off slowly. I feel uncertain, I feel unsure, I don’t know what he wants. He raises the whip and asks me to move some more. I start to feel the walls closing in around me. I wish I could leave.

I can see other horses in the distance and stop. Looking over at them I try to work out how I might be able to get to them. He starts moving towards me. I really really want to go to the other horses. He is moving closer, the whip has been raised and he is telling me to move on. I take off at a canter and cut across the centre of the yard to see if I can get to the other horses. I don’t understand what is happening and really really want to leave. He has now moved back into the centre and each time I try to cut across the centre he pushes me with great energy to the outside. I feel frightened. What does he want? Why is he doing this? I can see my owner sitting on the fence.

Why isn’t she helping me? What have a done wrong? He is sending me round and around. I am now in a canter, still trying to work out how to escape. I can’t get out. I try to stop at the same place as before and he is ready for this and quickly sends me forward with a crack of the whip. I feel panic setting in. I feel desperate. How do I escape!!!

I look to the man to try to understand what he wants and he lowers his whip and steps back… I slow just a little - what is he doing? but then continue on. I am going fast but yet he still sends me forward. Each time I try to slow down, he sends me forward. I look at him again and he lowers his whip, his energy and steps back from me. I slow down looking at him. He continues to back away from me. I don’t understand. I take off again, trying to work out how to get to my friends. Occasionally I look at my human. She doesn’t seem to want to help me.

I look at the man again and he backs off, I slow down and continue to look at him, he continues to back off. I look up and my owner again trying to understand and the man sends me forward with great energy. What is happening!!! I look at the man. He backs off. I don’t want to look at him but I have no choice. Does he want me to come to him? I take a step towards him. I feel so desperate. I want so bad for this to end. He continues to back up so maybe coming to him is correct. He turns around and walks around the yard. I follow. I have given up. This seems to be the right answer.

11/09/2024

11/03/2024

Osteopaths look at what motions can and can’t be achieved and how that affects everything else.

It’s NOT about position, or (mis)alignment.
It’s about MOBILITY = motion possibility.

Great video, Kathy!

11/03/2024

Gotta love a big stack of hay! Happy to have found a local grower and the analysis came back great so we stocked up for winter and can now balance diet & minerals accordingly. 💃🏼