Providing a list of reputable Force Free trainers in the St. Louis, Missouri area and the latest information about force free training and related topics.
A DOG BITE PREVENTION PROGRAM FOR KIDS & FAMILIES
The Be a Tree program is a dog bite prevention seminar program for school-age children. This program focuses on fun and interactive activities to teach children how to read dog body language and how to act safely around both their own dog and strange dogs.
Learn more here: https://doggonesafe.com/Be-A-Tree
Reduce fear, stress, anxiety, and frustration in shelter pets with Fear Free. All shelter employees and volunteers can register for FREE.
As dog guardians, we all want our loyal companions to be well-behaved and happy. But when our dogs exhibit undesirable behaviour, we may be tempted to resort to quick fixes like punishment collars or trainers who use forceful techniques. However, these methods come at a high cost to both the dog and...
A reward-based approach is the best way to deal with behaviour issues in dogs. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends the use of reward-based methods for behaviour issues as well as for basic manners. In their position statement on humane dog training, they review the evidence and explain why reward-based methods are best. They say, "Reward-based learning offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner's welfare. Research supports the efficacy of reward-based training to address unwanted and challenging behaviours. There is no evidence that aversive training is necessary for dog training or behavior modification." You can download their full statement on their website:https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/AVSAB-Humane-Dog-Training-Position-Statement-2021.pdf
Window reactivity....highly problematic and stressful for everyone. This "game" is responsible for high levels of anxiety and stress to many dogs.
Barking is NOT the only sign your dog is being stressed by this repeated action....it is just that barking is far more noticeable to some people.....the anxiety/stress started a long time before.
Many dogs will wait and wait and wait......finally they are "rewarded" for that fixation with a fleeting glimpse of whatever they react to.
People
Cars
Dogs
Birds
Neighbours
Cycles
Wind moving a tree....there are many individual triggers.
They may race around the house in a pattern to another window to view and react again......then when out of view, back to the original spot to wait...and wait some more.
This IS a highly damaging "game" for dogs.
Many people with anxious dogs may not actually realise their dogs do this when they are out of the house.....as it may not happen when you or the family are home.
You may have a highly anxious dog but are completely unsure why. Set up a camera and watch while you are gone for a few hours.
There are many ways to help this.
Baby gates.
These limit movement and are one solution (but easily jumped by larger dogs).
The "easiest" solution is window film.....not a popular solution for some people. Blinds and curtains are often ineffective as dogs will position themselves to watch through/under or around them. Watch the height of chairs your dog may use to peer over the film....think about ways to prevent that, you may need to move furniture around.
Aesthetically it may not be appealing for some, or the film has to be incredibly high if the triggers are birds. Some people are reluctant to use film as a solution especially if they have a fantastic view..... but make no mistake.....this very rarely gets better by itself.
It can also get a WHOLE lot worse.
Reactivity can morphs outwards and what once was a reaction to dogs passing has now involved birds also....or cars....or cars and now cyclists and people.
The film may work well for some but there is a big caution sign at the bottom of the graphic.....for a small amount of dogs blocking view can be incredibly stressful....and a SMALL amount of dogs can find themselves in an even MORE stressful environment.
Try the film....it can be a miracle solution but PLEASE get a trainer in if this causes other issues.
Highly stressed dogs need help quickly.
Enjoy the difference and peace...because your dog absolutely will.
DO YOU NEED SHOCK FOR A RELIABLE RECALL?
Short answer: NO
Longer answer: I met a woman in the park recently with two large dogs who had been trained to recall on shock. She said they had a strong "prey drive," so the shock worked pretty well except when they were focused on wildlife. I observed her repeatedly command her dogs to lie down. They finally obeyed, first one, then the other.
Let's unpack this just a little. First of all, there is no such thing as "prey drive" in dogs. Dogs are NOT predators, they are opportunists and scavengers.
Further, a "drive," another word for instinct, is complex, and is not properly referred to by the object of the "drive." For example, thirst could be said to be a "drive," but we don't say an animal or a person has a "water drive," do we? "Drive" varies by circumstances.
The thirstier an animal is, the less picky it is about what it will drink. I have observed my own dogs drink from muddy tire tracks on a walk, yet only drink from their clean water bowl at home after I add fresh water.
Getting back to "prey drive." Dogs again, are not predators, and they don't chase cats because they are hungry. A trained police dog doesn't attack the arm of a criminal because he is hungry, nor does a Golden Retriever chase and retrieve a ball because it is hungry.
My late dog, Opal, flew over jumps and retrieved dumbbells, not because of "prey drive," but because she was FULL of enthusiasm!
Now, about those shock collars, referred to euphemistically as "e-collars."
Here is another myth: shock is required for a better, more reliable recall.
It is not.
On this page I have repeatedly discussed the problems with punishment, aka as "correction," including shock. As anyone who has seen my dogs in action, or has been in my classes or private lessons knows, positive reinforcement training is powerful!
Unlike the woman who explained to me that shock ("e" ) was necessary to train her high "prey drive" dogs to come when called, I can teach a dog to come when called without this, and so have my clients.
I have had clients who have completed training with me tell me they have been able to call their dogs away from other dogs and wildlife using what they learned from me, and I have reliably been able to call my own dogs away from wildlife and from long distances without the use of any shock.
The use of pain or the threat of pain or uncomfortable consequences is not necessary in dog training. In many cases is is counterproductive. This is borne out by the scientific literature, not just my personal experience.
© 2022 Cindy Ludwig, M.A., B.S., R.N.
Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA, CCPDT)
Graduate, Karen Pryor Academy for Animal Training & Behavior,
Professional Dog Trainer Program
Owner, Canine Connection LLC
Willard, Missouri
Showing that you're alpha to your dog is a flawed approach to dog behavior. Learn more about how to build a better relationship with your dog.
Just because you're okay with someone petting your dog, doesn't mean your dog is giving consent. Here's how and when to respectfully pet a dog.
I feel the need to post this again, as the horse world really needs to get up to speed.
Cmon people!! Train your horses and pets with food! With reward based training! With Positive Reinforcement training!! 🧡
Photo Credit/Copyright:- Lili Chin www.doggiedrawings.net
Why should you crate train?
We receive a large number of surrender forms, way more than we can possibly begin to help. Most of the surrender requests could be solved with a crate. Many reasons for surrender include tearing up the house, getting overstimulated with guests, door darting when people come and go. When used in the right way, crating can be a true win for you and your dog.
Here is one success story about Nora, a young lab. The paragraph below is a post from her dad. This picture is from today. He couldn’t find her. She had given herself a break.
So I lost my buddy on June 1st I was devastated I promised him when I was ready I'd rescue another I went to taps in Sept looking for a dog just like him the lady said don't just look at dogs that remind u of your past buddy so I met Nora brought her home spoiled her nothing I did kept her from chewing things up but I couldn't give up so last week I bought a kennel a very large one now she gets kennel when I'm gone all is great she loves her condo thanks everyone for offering advice she's a sweetheart and I love her
Crate training doesn’t happen overnight and crating should NEVER be used as punishment. A crate should be viewed as a safe space for your dog. If you are struggling with your dog and aren’t crating, consider giving it a try.
Did you know that a lot of aggressive behaviors can have medical causes? Often times when I get someone asking about their dog's "Sudden" aggression the first thing I tell them to do is make an appointment with their vet. There are a myriad of medical conditions that can cause aggressive behavior in dogs. And if we don't treat those, no amount of work done on a psychological front is going to have the impact it could, because we haven't treated the root cause of the problem. And that is that ultimately the dog is not feeling well. I don't know about you, but I am rarely the best version of myself when I am sick, or in pain.
A study being conducted in the UK has released preliminary results. It is doing medical work ups on dogs reported to have aggression, or reactivity issues in the home. The work ups are intense, bloodwork, MRI scans, CAT scans, ultrasounds etc. The kind of work ups that most people are not going to be able to do either due to access or financial constraints. But the preliminary findings is that some 76% of the dogs being worked up on a medical front for "aggressive behavior" have an underlying medical condition. The most common of which was undiagnosed arthritis. What this study is pointing out is that medical causes of behavior are often underdiagnosed. So when you reach out to me with a sudden need, please understand my suggestion of speaking to a vet first is because I want to make certain we address any pain issues before we start so we have full arsenal of available treatments to help your dog!
Did You Know that dogs are not really den animals? Wolves, Coyotes and other close cousins to the wolf, are not den animals either. At least not in the sense of living in dens daily.
🐾A den animal is an animal that rests in an underground hole in the ground or small burrows at all inactive times.
🐾A den is defined as: The lair of a wild usually predatory animal. (Merriam-Webster)
🐾 Animals from the canis branch (dogs and wolves) of the canidae family tend to only use dens for times when the family group can't travel. This is only when they are rearing puppies over a period of 8-10 weeks every year.
🐾 Some animals from the vulpes branch (foxes) of the canidae family occasionally take up residence in dens underground outside of puppy rearing.
🐾Even though they generally don't live in dens, all these species will take shelter during inactive times. These shelters can range from anything from piles of firewood, under fallen trees, or in tight bushes, to under floor boards, in dumpsters, or abandoned cars for animals living closer to humans.
🐾These types of shelters all have in common that the animal itself is in control of when to leave. Shelters will also often have more than one exit, to avoid getting trapped.
🐾All dogs do enjoy cozyness though, so you will often find a dog snuggled up i a tight space or under covers. This generally has to do with the dog seeking a comfortable spot to rest, and who would't enjoy a pile of pillows?
🐾If you have a crate, this can act as a shelter. But only if it is left open for the dog to decide what she wants. When it gets closed, it ceasees to resemble a den or any other voluntary shelter.
🐾Always make sure your dog feels safe and can take a break from life in as many places as possible in your home. Any place the dog deems safe can be used, not just dog beds and crates.
🐾Resources:
http://westernwildlife.org/gray-wolf-outreach-project/biology-behavior-4/
https://slideplayer.com/slide/13025175/
https://www.wildlifeonline.me.uk/animals/article/red-fox-dens-earths-resting-sites
https://whyy.org/segments/is-a-dog-crate-really-a-den-how-this-very-american-practice-took-off/?fbclid=IwAR3SQ-yZUUE8Dbp5NCp7teVTs2CoUdv4LMoiCdDL563DHgb1RqDGlQ3ISM8
http://pawsitivelygenius.com/the-crate-controversy/
www.AllBigCanines.com THIS IS AN E-COLLAR These are used to prevent dogs from accessing injuries, wounds, or surgical sites. They are e collars short for Elizabethan collars. THESE ARE SHOCK COLLARS. Don't let deceptive marketing practices cause more confusion and problems for you.
WHYS AND WHEREFORES
As humans we are driven to needing answers. We need and want to know why to understand the reason that certain things happen so we can give it a “label”. We have an innate need for things to make sense and knowing why something happens is the first step in meeting that need. This is also true when we need to know why our dogs behave the way they do.
Behaviour is complex and finding the reason for a behaviour often involves taking many different factors into account, many of which may not be apparent on the surface. Some behaviour is simple to understand and address while more complex behaviours like fear, reactivity, aggression, separation anxiety etc. is far more complex and sometimes we may never know all the factors that point to the “why”.
One of my dogs is really “different”. If I were to “label” her, she is really introverted, a loner, reactive, very sensitive, doesn’t like people and other dogs, doesn’t like to be touched, slow to trust and doesn’t play with toys. Many years ago, when I knew nothing about dog behaviour, I had her assessed by a behaviourist. The behaviourists conclusion was - to put it simply “She’s odd!”. I was both disappointed and relieved with this answer. Disappointed because I desperately needed an answer or a label for the way she was and relieved because I began to understand that sometimes there are no answers and we have to accept and work with the dog we have.
Not knowing why should never prevent us from working on improving our dog’s behaviour and finding ways to help them cope in our world. Sometimes we have to let go of finding the "why" and just accept our dogs for the unique individuals they are.
Is mounting or hu***ng a sign of dominance in dogs?
Hu***ng or mounting is a fixed action pattern (FAP), which are innate behaviours. These are behaviours that are common to all members of a species and require no learning. A Fixed Action Pattern (FAP) is a predictable series and stereotypical sequences of complex actions triggered by a cue - www.simplypsychology.org. www.sciencedirect.com.
Hu***ng or mounting is NOT:
Dominance
Controlling you or another dog
Alpha behaviour
Only seen in unsterilised dogs
Only seen in males
Only seen in younger dogs
To cause you embarrassment
To get your attention or get back at you
Hu***ng or mounting by male or female dogs of any age CAN be due to:
Excitement
Sexual rehearsal
Burning off pent up energy
General stimulation...yippee, something’s happening!
Stress/Anxiety/Displacement behaviour
Play
Hyperarousal
A medical issue
Boredom
Frustration
Burning of excessive energy (like zoomies)
Ambivalence about a situation or a dog
Unease
Tiredness
If you are worried:
Make a note of how many times a day this is happening.
Take your dog for a medical check up.
Contact a up to date science-based behaviour consultant to identify the triggers and the emotions to be able to develope a modification plan to improve the emotional state and hence the behaviour.
What to do in the moment - if the dog underneath seems uncomfortable and stressed then please interrupt. It may mean that the 'top dog' is unable to read the body language of the other one. Rather redirect that energy to a toy or chew as opposed to saying off. Give him something mentally stimulating to do instead. If they are having turns and alternating this behaviour with other behaviours like chasing, tumbling, play bows, etc., then leave them be.
Be careful of your dog doing it to random dogs in a park that he does not know. The unknown dog could become aggressive due to not wanting the behaviour.
Note - many Google searches for this behaviour will bring up the word dominance. The behaviour is not due to such a simplistic, misunderstood term. Dogs do it to pillows, toys or furniture - do you think that they are trying to dominate those inanimate objects? Every dog is an individual with unique emotions. The feelings and motivations for the behaviour will differ from dog to dog but it is certainly not about dominance. Don't believe everything you read on Google and check your trainer's/behaviourist's credentials. Let's not label every behaviour beyond our understanding as dominant 🙂
Most guardians rush to sterilize their dogs when this happens...it may not make a difference.
Word. 🎤💧
ID: EVERY TIME I HEAR “WE NEED TO HOLD OUR DOGS ACCOUNTABLE AND PUT ASIDE OUR EMOTIONS” IN TRAINING TO JUSTIFY OUTDATED AND HARMFUL TRAINING TOOLS AND METHODS, WHAT I ACTUALLY HEAR IS:
“I AM NOT SKILLED ENOUGH TO UNDERSTAND THE IMPORTANCE OF TRAINING MECHANICS, THE EMOTIONAL NEEDS OF THE DOG WHEN TAKING RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR TRAINING”
🐾Reactive Dog Myths🐾
Dogs who bark and lunge at other dogs or people are often very worried dogs. It can be a really big challenge to live with a reactive dog who is struggling with triggers and walks. There are a lot of myths out there too which don’t help.
❎Myth - You aren’t firm enough with your dog.
I hear this one very frequently of late. People contacting me with reactive dogs, under the impression that it is because they were “too soft” with their dogs or not firm enough. The reality is that reactivity has very little to do with rules or firmness. Reactivity is generally an emotional response, that needs addressing to ensure the dog becomes more confident. Being “firm” or harsh often has the opposite effect.
❎Myth - Your rescue must have been abused.
Alot of people assume their reactive rescue dog must have been abused if they are nervous, and jumpy. However this isn’t strictly true. The dogs reactivity could have been a reason for surrender, or they might have had a bad experience with their trigger or even simply poor genetics. Sometimes there is no obvious reason too. Its important not to dwell on a rescue dogs past, instead focus on their future and how you can work together as a team.
❎Myth- Your dog is protecting you.
Dogs are masters of self preservation in the main. They tend to react to help themselves rather than to help you. While it is true, certain breeds might display guarding instincts or protection in the right circumstances, if a dog is regularly reacting to triggers, it is unlikely to be about you. Your dog is more concerned about themselves.
❎Myth- Your dog needs socialisation.
Reactive dogs who are anxious, or learning appropriate manners do NOT need to be “socialised” around their triggers in a traditional sense. The critical socialisation period ends when a dog is still a puppy, beyond that a dog who develops reactivity issues needs careful and considerate exposure to boost positive experiences. Often the worst thing you can do is take them on “pack walks” or offlead sessions. These will likely just flood your dog and make the issue worse.
✅ Fact - Your reactive dog is having a hard time.
A reactive dog is one who needs a careful plan and action to help them learn that they don’t need to react to triggers, and they do not need to worry so much. They need patience and understanding. Short cuts will interrupt progress. A modern dog trainer or behaviourist will be able to help you learn to read your dog, make plans to succeed and help you in your progress to help both you and your dog become more confident.
1984.
My first beautiful boy, Ben. I took him to training classes and was told to put a choke chain on him & correct him if he ‘misbehaved’. And I did. Because I was 14 & I knew no better & that was how dogs were trained then.
But that was nearly 40 years ago. Times have changed. Science has progressed. Our knowledge & understanding of behaviour & emotions has grown.
There is no excuse for this approach to training now. None. Continuing to do things this way because they’ve always been done this way is so limiting & blinkered. And it does dogs and their humans a huge disservice. They deserve to be taught in a way that reflects the most up to date knowledge we have. They deserve the most thoughtful, up to date, evidence based practice trainers can give them.
Times change, knowledge grows, science progresses. Make sure your trainer does too.
“…when you know better, do better” Maya Angelou
There is never any excuse for using pain , threats or coercion in training 🐾
For safe , modern and up to date dog training advice , hit the “visit group” button at the top of this page .
Our book is also available on Amazon , and is currently free with Kindle Unlimited :
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09ZCL5PN9
WHY SQUIRTING IS HURTING
Using a spray bottle to sq**rt water at a dog to stop an unwanted behaviour is not something I support and I’ve seen many cases where the consequences of this have caused long term problems.
This method of stopping a behaviour is unfortunately still very popular and even some puppy schools and dog trainers believe that it’s an effective, humane way of correcting behaviour. Just because it doesn’t cause physical harm doesn’t make it right. There are emotional consequences. Consequences like creating negative associations, fear, mistrust, a fear of water and / or bottles and more. Behaviour is driven by an underlying emotion, creating more negative emotions certainly doesn’t solve anything.
Consequences like a puppy being continually sprayed for chasing a child that resulted in the puppy associating the child with the punishment. This family had been advised that this was the quickest and easiest way to stop the behaviour. This pup developed a fear and dislike of children that he may never fully get over.
If a dog is sprayed for jumping up at a person, it doesn’t teach the dog what behaviour they should be doing instead. Rewarding a dog for having four paws on the floor instead of jumping up is the logical way to teach this. Yes, it may take more effort and time, but the dog will learn an alternative behaviour and the jumping up will stop.
Teach dogs what to do instead of what not to do. Dogs live in our world and are expected to follow our rules. How can we expect them to behave the way we want them to if we only punish unwanted behaviour and don’t teach them what behaviour we are looking for? Stop focusing on unwanted behaviour and focus on teaching an alternative behaviour – how else will our dogs know what to do?
REACTIVITY MISUNDERSTOOD
Reactive dogs are often misunderstood. A dog that is reacting to a situation is not trying to be difficult, they are having a difficult time coping with that particular situation and are trying their best to make the scary thing go away.
Reactivity is generally triggered by the emotion of fear. The fear of whatever is scaring them, a fear of a valuable possession being taken away or a fear of a strange person or animal coming into their territory. Anxiety, stress, over excitement, over stimulation, feeling overwhelmed, trigger stacking, or a dog that is tired, in pain or even has chronic itching will often feel irritable and may be reactive in certain situations. If their reactivity is successful in making the scary thing go away, it becomes a rewarding behaviour because it’s something that works for them and it makes them feel better.
It’s not easy to be the owner of a reactive dog. One of my dogs is reactive and I know first-hand how dogs like this can leave you feeling embarrassed, ashamed, angry or frustrated. Why do they have to be so difficult, why can’t they just behave normally? Everyone is looking at me, judging me, thinking that I’m a bad owner, have no training skills, can’t control my dog or have a vicious dog that shouldn’t be taken out in public.
As hard as it may be, we need to take the focus off how we as owners feel about their reactivity and focus on how our dogs are feeling and what is causing their reaction. Whatever it is, it’s not something our dogs can overcome on their own and we need to take steps to help them cope. Reactive dogs need compassion, understanding, management, force free, positive reinforcement interventions and decompression – (a return to a normal, more relaxed state after a period of intense stress, psychological pressure, or urgent activity). These techniques take time and patience but are so important in helping our dogs to feel safe and learn more acceptable ways of coping.
I have learnt through many mistakes, to recognise what triggers my reactive dog and take steps to either avoid those situations, provide enough distance, or provide her with an alternative choice where she feels safe and in control of her environment. There will always be unexpected triggers around the next corner that are not within our control, but doing all we can to manage these triggers has immeasurable benefits.
For many dogs, the world is a fun and engaging place.👍 We take our dogs with us to restaurants, pet stores, crowded parks, and gatherings - in an attempt to give our dogs a life of experiences and have them with us enjoying life by our side.
But for just as many dogs, the world and those activities, is overwhelming, chaotic, and confusing.🥺 There is a common belief that in order for a dog to have a "full life", they need to be social with other people and dogs, they should be comfortable and able to be in public spaces, and they need to get out and explore the 🌏. And if you're not doing these things, you are doing your dog a disservice.
Now, I'm not saying these things should be discouraged or that dogs don't enjoy such situations. But what I am saying, is 👉NOT ALL DOGS WILL! 👈
If your dog is overwhelmed by the chaos of crowded spaces, if they don't enjoy the company of other dogs or strange people, and if you find they are most happy in quiet and familiar spaces, I'm here to tell you that's okay!
Dogs can live a full and complete life without needing to be thrusted into these situations. And I'll take it one step further that forcing a stressed dog into these situations is doing them a greater disservice. 🙁
By creating safe opportunities for enrichment at home and in private spaces where your dog feels safe, you are allowing your dog the ability to be him/herself and fully enjoy life without constantly feeling on edge. You are NOT doing your dog an injustice by keeping him/her away from those things that may be overwhelming for him.
👉You do NOT have to take your dog to that "dog friendly" cafe downtown just because other people do.
👉You do NOT need to take your dog to the dog park to "be social" and "meet new friends" if this isn't something your dog enjoys
👉You do NOT need to take your dog for walks in that crowded park where he consistently feels on edge with all of the activity around
👉And you certainly do NOT need to take your dog into stores or other public spaces so he can meet new people (who he has no interest in meeting).
I'm here to take that burden off of your shoulders. To recommend focusing on providing your dog with enriching activities, novel experiences, and opportunities to do the things that bring you both joy in the spaces that fit your dog's needs and preferences.
Our dog's worlds don't have to be big, they just have to be full. Full of enrichment, love, safety, and joy.❤️🐾
Ever wondered if a specific trainer is the right one for you?
Here are a few tips on what to look out for.
When pets need to be separated from owners, consider how to include items familiar to the pet, such as a toy or towel with the owner's scent, in the experience.
The word aggressive is often used for dogs that bark and lunge at other dogs. I have even used it to advertise the support I offer for dogs that present with these types of behaviours. But I dont like the word, I use it because it's a word that people recognize. But aggressive really isnt very descriptive.
Aggression is an intent to harm, which is rarely the case, even when we see dogs fight, they often do not want to cause damage.
The word aggression doesn't explain the motivation or emotions that an animal is feeling. It's an overused term that doesn't actually tell us much at all. Dogs can look aggressive and bark and lunge at other dogs for various reasons.
They are feeling nervous, fearful, suffer with anxiety.
They can feel frustrated, unable to get to what they want. Unable to collect the data (often scent) they need from the other dog.
They can feel trapped, restrained and unable to carry out normal Canine communication.
They can want to play but lack the proper social skills.
Many people like to blame the guardians but a mixture of genetics, early and later life experiences, and health, all have a part to play.
We also like putting our dogs emotions into neat little boxes. Hes fearful, he is just excited etc. But when do we ever feel only one emotion at a time? We can be excited and frustrated, Happy and a little anxious.
So if you see a dog barking and lunging. Show empathy for both the dog and their guardian. They may look aggressive but they will both be having to deal with a whole host of difficult emotions. Guardians often struggle more to support their dogs because of the judgement and lack of understanding from others, and when we become stressed it makes the situation even worse.
If more people were supportive in these situations then guardians would be much better equipped to support their dogs. Also understand that they need space. The further the trigger is away, the better the dog and guardian can cope with the situation. I am able to cope with a wasp buzzing near by but if he starts coming towards me I can start to look a little unhinged. I also become very loud! Am I being aggressive towards the wasp?
No, i dont mean to harm him, I'm just trying to get them away from me. I may even run towards them to try and make them go back. I rarely think logically in these moments, I just panic.
So be kind and create distance because one day you may have a dog that needs extra support.
St. Louis, MO
63101
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