Wild One Ranch & Transport

Wild One Ranch & Transport Wild One Ranch is dedicated to gentling and training America’s Mustangs .

As I prepare for a cross country trip I always clean out my tack room and gooseneck . We fill it with hay so we never ha...
05/17/2024

As I prepare for a cross country trip I always clean out my tack room and gooseneck . We fill it with hay so we never have to look for it on the road . But I often wonder how do I collect so much crap ????

I am about o do a cross country trip hauling Mustangs . I will be sure to share some adventures. Look for us at the Oswe...
05/16/2024

I am about o do a cross country trip hauling Mustangs . I will be sure to share some adventures. Look for us at the Oswego county fair in July . We will have a bunch of Mustangs for you to meet and daily demos !

What size ass do you like ? Small , medium or large ? 😂 the group went to get feet trimmed today and behaved very nicely...
05/05/2024

What size ass do you like ? Small , medium or large ? 😂 the group went to get feet trimmed today and behaved very nicely .

Leaving the 2-3 week of May . Can vary route slightly. Laying over for a few days in Salt Lake to visit family.  Box sta...
05/05/2024

Leaving the 2-3 week of May . Can vary route slightly. Laying over for a few days in Salt Lake to visit family. Box stall available. Hay/water always . References available. Pm me for quote or questions.

Leaving the beginning of the week with room both ways .
05/03/2024

Leaving the beginning of the week with room both ways .

04/23/2024

It is tempting to turn horses out into spring pastures at the first sight of green grass, especially after a long winter. However, spring grazing should be introduced slowly and delayed until grasses reach 6 to 8” to optimize both the health of the horse and pasture. When horse pastures reach 6 to 8”, begin grazing for 15 minutes, increasing the grazing time each day by 15 minutes until 5 hours of consecutive grazing is reached. After that, unrestricted grazing can occur. Grazing should cease when forages have been grazed down to 3 to 4 inches. At this time, move horses to another paddock or a dry lot. Grazing can resume when grasses regrow to 6 to 8”.

03/24/2024

I love Luke Reinbold Horsemanship LLC no nonsense way of training . Right to the point .

02/29/2024
01/16/2024

10 Ways Horses Cope In Winter (+ a Bonus)

Turn your horse out in a field of snow and chances are he’ll be off playing, rolling and running around in it, even if he hasn’t got a blanket on.

Horses are remarkably well adapted to tolerate a broad range of temperatures, reflecting the climate they evolved in. In the summer horses are able to sweat profusely to cool off. In winter, they have other tools to help their core warm and healthy.

1. Horses have a unique strategy to prevent their feet from freezing. Typically, blood circulates in a horse's hoof through an impressive network of tiny capillaries. However, when his feet get cold, a mechanism known as ‘direct shunt’ opens up in the hooves, allowing blood to flow through larger veins instead of through the small capillaries, helping to keep the area warm.
2. Your horse's lower limbs are well-suited for cold conditions because there are no muscles below the knee. This design reduces the need for extensive blood circulation in the leg cells, resulting in less heat loss.
3. Your horse's winter coat is composed of two layers of hair. The top layer is coarse hair set at an angle. A fine layer of softer downy hair grows underneath. This design forms pockets of air, creating an insulating layer that effectively retains heat and acts as a windbreak. Additionally, the downward tilt of the coat helps deflect falling raindrops and snowflakes before they reach the skin.
4. Piloerection, another heat-trapping adaptation, involves tiny muscles at the base of the hair lifting it vertically. This action increases the hair depth, effectively trapping air next to the body and creating an insulating layer.
5. Your horse's mane and tail also serve as protection for vital blood vessels and sensitive areas during the winter months.
6. The blunt-shaped equine muzzle is richly supplied with blood so it can withstand the bitter cold without freezing, unlike our triangular shaped nose that can be susceptible to frostbite.
7. Your horse's skin is adept at warding off the cold. The outermost layer, the epidermis, comprises waterproof layers. Oils produced by the skin spread across, coating the skin and hairs and forming a protective barrier against moisture. Below the epidermis is the hypodermis, which is a loose layer of connective tissue in which insulating fat is stored.
8. In cold weather, your horse's nervous system triggers the adaptive response of vasoconstriction. This process involves narrowing blood vessels, restricting blood flow to the skin and superficial muscles. Instead, it redirects blood to deeper tissues, minimizing heat loss.
9. During summer's warmth, your horse's muscles naturally relax, reducing heat production. Conversely, in winter's cold, your horse's muscles contract, actively generating heat. This increased effort demands more calories and can lead to muscle soreness and tension. Horses in good health may also opt for running and playing to generate more muscle heat. Shivering, an extreme response, occurs when a horse's core temperature drops too low, serving as a way to generate heat and avoid dangerous cooling.
10. Your horse's digestive system plays an important role in keeping him warm in cold weather. Digesting hay generates internal metabolic heat (more than any other feed), effectively warming your horse from the inside out. As staying warm in winter demands more calories, it's crucial to provide an increased amount of quality hay during colder times.

Bonus - Horses have thick eyelashes, which protect their eyes from bitter winds and temperatures.

Horses employ a variety of unique strategies to deal with winter conditions.
You can help your horse thrive by booking him a massage appointment this winter.

Learn more about why your horse should get a massage here - https://koperequine.com/heres-a-list-of-things-you-may-not-yet-know-about-massage/

Learn more winter care for your horse’s muscles here - https://koperequine.com/tips-for-maintaining-your-horses-muscles-tendons-and-joints-in-cold-weather/

01/11/2024

Ready or not, foaling season is upon us! Is your foaling kit stocked and ready to go?

If this is your first foaling or you don’t know where to start, the graphic below lists a few essentials for you to include. Having these items ready in advance will mean less stress and scrambling at the last minute trying to acquire what you need.

As always, your veterinarian is your best source of information. Consult your horse doctor for additional recommendations and for training on how to properly use these tools to assist your mare during and after delivery!

01/11/2024

There are four primary colors in horse biology and genetics. These base colors are black, red, chestnut/sorrel and bay. The rare colors are due to cross-breeding.
Some colors are more magnified, while others are dull known as recessive. Horses’ coat colors are obtained from one of the two possible base pigments: black or red, which means that every horse carries a gene for either of these pigments. Some people also consider bay as a base color. Here are the 10 most common horse colors that you are likely to come across. Black, bay, chestnut, brown, dun, buckskin, gray, grullo, sorrel, and palomino. Recessives are white, Perlino, Cremello, chocolate, champagne and blue.

01/09/2024

You may wonder why we pull back into the syringe when giving injections in the vein. This picture explains why. We don't pull back to make sure we're in the vessel, we do it to make sure we're in the RIGHT vessel. Today I went to give an injection and pulled back and saw blood brighter than I wanted. I decided to go and get a new dose of sedation and once again pulled back and then gave my dose of sedation. The syringe on the left was my first injection and the syringe on the right was my second injection. Does anyone know why I shouldn't have injected that first syringe? And had I injected that first injection, what would have happened?

01/04/2024
01/02/2024
12/30/2023

What is the longest a horse can safely go without food?

More and more I see horses and ponies stood for long periods of time with no hay or haylage. Usually under the guise of a “weight control diet”. So how long can a horse be without food before damage is done? And what damage is done?

For those with a short attention span, I’ll give you the answer to begin with - 4 hours, maximum.

Why?

Horses are grazers. They are designed to eat constantly. They have no way of storing their acids and digestive enzymes, they’ve never needed to. They have no gall bladder to store bile and their stomachs release acid constantly, whether or not there is food in the stomach and intestines.

A horses stomach only holds approximately 8-15 litres. Depending on the substance eaten, it takes on average 4-6 hours for the stomach to completely empty. After this, the acids and enzymes start to digest the inside of the horses stomach and then the intestines. This causes both gastric and intestinal ulceration. It has been estimated that 25-50% of foals and 60-90% of adult horses suffer from ulceration. But I won’t go into detail about this, there is a lot of information around about ulcers.

So is that it? Are ulcers the only concern?

No, having an empty stomach is a stress situation for a horse. The longer they are starved, the more they release stress hormones, cortisol predominantly. Cortisol blocks insulin and causes a constantly high blood glucose level. This stimulates the body to release even more insulin, and in turn this causes fat tissue to be deposited and leptin resistance. Over time this causes insulin resistance (Equine Metabolic Syndrome). All of these mechanisms are well known risk factors for laminitis and are caused by short term starvation (starting roughly 3-4 hours after the stomach empties). Starving a laminitic is literally the worst thing you can do. Over longer periods, this also starts to affect muscle and can cause weakness, and a lack of stamina so performance horses also need a constant supply of hay/haylage to function optimally.

Let’s not forget horses are living, breathing and feeling animals. We talk about this stress reaction like it’s just internal but the horse is well aware of this stress. Door kicking, box walking, barging and many other stable vices and poor behaviour can be explained by a very stressed horse due to food deprivation (we all have that Hangry friend to explain this reaction). Next time you shout or hit a horse that dives for their net, remember their body is genuinely telling them they are going to starve to death. They know no different.

But surely they spend the night asleep so they wouldn’t eat anyway?

Not true. Horses only need 20mins REM sleep every 24 hours (jealous? I am!). They may spend a further hour or so dozing but up to 22-23 hours a day are spent eating. So if you leave your horse a net at 5pm and it’s gone by 8pm, then by 12am their stomach is empty. By 4am they are entering starvation mode. By their next feed at 8am, they are extremely stressed, physically and mentally.

Now I know the cob owners are reading this mortified. I can almost hear you shouting at your screen “if I feed my horse ad lib hay he won’t fit out the stable door in a week!!”

I will say that a horse with a constant supply of hay/haylage will eat far less then the same horse that is intermittently starved. They don’t eat in a frenzy, reducing the chance of colic from both ulcers and over eating. Cobs included.

However I’m not suggesting you sit your cob in front of a bale of haylage and say have at it! There is a difference between ad lib and a constant supply. There is much we can do to reduce calorie intake and control weight whilst feeding a constant supply.

The easiest is small holes nets. There are many. Trickle nets, greedy feeders, nibbleze, trawler nets etc. My personal favourite is the Shires Soft Mesh 1”. They don’t cost the Earth, they are easy to fill and they don’t have knots so are much gentler to the teeth. Now often I suggest these types of nets to owners and the owner tells me “Oh no, *** won’t eat out of those” 🙄 this is nonsense. If he was left it, he would. Remember, you can give a normal net and one of these for them to nibble at after. Better than leaving them with nothing at all.

A few other tricks, hang the net from the ceiling/rafters, it’s harder to eat out of a net that swings. Soak the hay, a minimum of 4 hours to be effective. Mix with straw but be sure to introduce the straw slowly and make sure it’s top quality and a palatable type eg Barley or Oat, otherwise they won’t eat it.

Don’t forget exercise. The best way to get weight off a horse is exercise. Enough exercise and they can eat what they want!

And lay off the bucket feed and treats! Horses on a diet require a vit/min supplement in the form of a balancer but that’s it. The odd slice of carrot or swede won’t do any harm but no licks, treats, treacle, molasses, cereal based rubbish. Even if it says low sugar or the marvellously misleading “No added sugar”! Your horse would rather have a constant supply of hay, I promise.

Written by Vikki Fowler BVetMed BAEDT MRCVS

A few edits for the critics-

Firstly, feeding a constant supply does not mean ad lib feeding. It means use some ingenuity and spread the recommended amount of daily forage so the horse is never stood with out food for more than 4 hours. I am not promoting obesity, quite the opposite, feeding like this reduces obesity and IR. This can be done whilst feeding your horse twice a day as most horse owners do. Just think outside the box for your own situation.

Secondly I am in the UK and this post is UK specific, use some common sense when reading. Yes in warmer climates, soaking hay for 4 hours is dangerous and studies show 1 hour is plenty in hot weather but in the UK’s arctic climate, a minimum of 4 hours is required. Equally the UK feed exclusively grass hay. I can not comment on other types.

Thirdly, yes every horse/pony and situation is different, but this is a law of nature and all horses have this anatomy and metabolism. How you achieve this constant supply is individual, the need for it is not.

Fourthly, the use of hay nets in the UK is very very high. I’d estimate 95% of horses I see are fed this way and very very few have incisor wear or neck/back issues as a result. Yes, feeding from the ground is ideal, but a constant supply, I feel trumps this. Again with ingenuity both can be safely achieved.

Finally, straw can be fed to horses safely, introduced very slowly, with fresh water always available, plus a palatable and digestible type of straw which will depend on your area. Again many horses in the UK are bedded on straw and most of them eat it. This is not a new concept to us.

Final finally 🤦‍♀️ and I feel I must add this due to the sheer number of people contacting me to ask, feed your horses during transport!!! I am astonished this is not normal in other countries! Again in the UK, we give our horses hay nets to transport. We don’t go 10 mins up the road without a haynet and a spare in case they finish! Considering we are a tiny island and we rarely transport even 4 hours, we never transport without hay available. I have never seen an episode of choke due to travelling with hay available. If you are concerned, use a slow feeder net so they can’t take too much in at once.

If you get to the end of this post and your first thought is “I can’t do this with my horse/pony, they’d be morbidly obese”, you haven’t read the advice in this post thoroughly.

12/05/2023
12/05/2023

I'm going to start this off by saying that I'm not a veterinarian. I'm not trying to pick a fight with your vet, or replace them. I cannot diagnose or treat your horse. I am simply a guy who has been around horses for a long time and has paid attention.

This year, I've had a couple of different horses that I've been contacted about for behavioral problems. One was uncharacteristically bolting back to the barn on trail rides after being steady as can be for years. We began virtual lessons over the summer. The other case was a phone call consultation yesterday. I had seen this horse during a mini-clinic/demonstration at an event a few months ago. It had gone to its knees a couple of times prior to and during the hour long demo. Once when being saddled, and once when being lunged. Both times had that air of "neurological?" about them. Now that horse is bolting and it's becoming a large enough problem that they're seeking help.

Both of these horses were described as generally fine to deal with and then, out of the blue, they have a big, unpredictable reaction and lose their minds for a little bit. I like to describe these horses as typically fine, but occasionally an invisible gnome with a cattle prod lights them up and BOOM! Now, horses of all kinds and experience levels can have a random bad Tuesday. That's what keeps this interesting. Or maybe a yellow jacket was involved and you just didn't notice, but when this type of behavior happens enough that the random over-reaction becomes a pattern of its own, formed over months, I get highly suspicious of Equine Protozoal Myeloencephalitis (EPM).

Unfortunately, over the last 3 decades, I have dealt with dozens of horses with EPM. This is a neurological disease where lesions are formed on the spinal cord and other parts of the Central Nervous System, but the symptoms can often begin presenting as a roaming and/or inconsistent lameness, weakness (especially in the hind end), asymmetrical usage of the hind end, stumbling, head tilting, one-sidedness, lack of coordination, and so forth.

The first case that I ever saw of it was in the mid 90's and involved a long yearling that went from fine, to no strength or coordination in her hind end, to diagnosis, to death in a matter of weeks. At that time, EPM was a rare diagnosis and treatment was iffy and not well understood. I'd say over the next decade more and more horses in training tested positive for it. In my experience, treatment wasn't very effective back then, and I never saw a horse in the performance horse world get back to even 90% of its former self. A decent number had far worse results.

I've heard that the tests have a tendency to show that a horse that has been exposed to the protozoans, but most successfully fight them off with their immune system, and thus will test positive, but not actually have any neurological symptoms. Your vet may well read that and puke, saying “this horse trainer needs to stop talking about diseases and medical tests,” and that's fair enough. We can all agree that the Great Opossum Migration of '98 was the turning point though, but I digress.

What I will say is that I have seen quite a few horses present in the early stages of EPM by bolting or having big reactions out of the blue. In my mind, it's like they get a random but significant electrical shock. If you could imagine a horse that is simply going over a cavaletti, or loping on a certain lead, or stopping, or any other type of exertion, and mid-maneuver that invisible gnome with a cattle prod shocked them, that's pretty much the effect I mean. With some horses there is a clear pattern of when I ask them to move specifically like this, and usually to one side, BOOM. With others, it's not nearly as defined a pattern.

Folks, again, I'm not trying to tell you or your vet what to do. I'm just going to say that I have spent a lot of time around horses, and when I hear of one who's uncharacteristically been bolting severely, but only every now and again, EPM immediately comes to mind. Both of these horses had seen vets and no definitive diagnosis was found. One was in Canada and after our virtual lesson I suggested she call her vet again and explore EPM. The vet was open minded enough to take the suggestion and confirmed that it was EPM, only the 2nd case he'd seen in 25 years. We stopped lessons for a month, while the horse was treated, and began again when the vet said it was ok. The difference was clear. I told the lady on the phone yesterday that I'd be happy to work with her and her horse, but I thought it'd probably be wasted $$$ at this time, and if it were my horse, and I had that pattern of behavior, combined with the wilting I had witnessed a few months ago, I'd ask my vet to look at treating for EPM first.

So, not to sound like a broken record, but I'm not trying to play your vet or tell you/them what to do. I'm simply saying that from a behaviorist perspective, EPM presents in the early stages like an invisible gnome with a cattle prod has you and your horse in their sights. We're also in the time of Elf on a Shelf and that certainly won't help matters. If you understand what I mean and haven't gotten a definitive diagnosis yet, maybe looking at EPM with your vet might be the ticket.

Illustration credit goes to University of Florida, unless they took it from somewhere else first.

Leaving Nov 30 with room . Can vary route if needed .
11/23/2023

Leaving Nov 30 with room . Can vary route if needed .

10/09/2023

I need a layover spot for a friend near Erie Pa . She has one newly gentled Mustang so 6 foot fence or stall needed .

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