08/07/2021
Box turtles primarily live on land, and they can be somewhat challenging pets. They are a long-term commitment, living for several decades, plus getting their environment right can be difficult.
There are several species of box turtle, and each has variations in its housing and dietary needs. Some prefer more humid enclosures than others; some need higher temperatures; some like to bask, and one variety even prefers brackish (slightly salty) water to fresh water.
Native to North America, the common box turtle has a high-domed upper shell that's primarily brown patterned with yellow or orange. It features a rather small head with a hooked upper jaw and tends to be an interesting pet with a distinctive personality.
Common Box Turtle Behavior and Temperament
Box turtles aren't considered suitable pets for young children or for new pet owners. This is due to their complex care requirements, as well as their susceptibility to stress, which can greatly affect a turtle's health. Expect to spend your time cleaning and maintaining their enclosure at least weekly, as well as feeding them every day or two.
Box turtles like consistency in their surroundings, and most prefer not to be handled by people. They don't typically bite, but anxiety from overhandling can lead some to nip a person. Moreover, they can carry salmonella, so it's important to thoroughly wash your hands if you do handle your turtle or anything in its environment.1 Once they’re comfortable in their environment, most box turtles will learn to recognize their keepers, even following a person’s movements from inside their enclosure or begging for food.
Housing the Common Box Turtle
Box turtles do best in a turtle-safe outdoor pen that mimics their natural environment, as long as temperatures don’t fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The pen should have walls that are at least 18 inches tall with an overhang to prevent the turtle from climbing out. It should include sunny and shady areas, places to hide, and access to a shallow water dish. Plus, it should be protected from predators.
If you can’t keep your turtle outdoors year-round in your climate, try to do so for at least part of the year. It’s difficult for indoor box turtles to thrive. If kept indoors, use a terrarium that’s at least 40 gallons. Many owners also turn plastic children’s pools, sandboxes, and other large tubs into indoor turtle housing. An indoor setup will require considerable space and effort to create the appropriate environment for a box turtle. Plan to equip the enclosure with a heat source, UV lighting, places to hide, and a shallow water dish.
Box turtles might hibernate if their enclosure is allowed to drop in temperature or if they are housed outdoors. But before you allow your box turtle to hibernate, you must ensure it is in good health. If an unhealthy box turtle hibernates, it might not wake up. That's because bodily functions slow during hibernation, so box turtles that are sick will potentially be unable to fight the illness while in their deep sleep.
Heat
Common box turtles require daytime temperatures of around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit with a basking spot that’s around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. At night, the temperature can drop to between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Opt for a basking lamp, as well as ceramic heat emitters or other heat sources, to help regulate the temperature.
Light
UVB lighting is essential for box turtles to metabolize the calcium in their diets. Without it, they can develop metabolic bone disease and even die.2 Box turtles need around 12 hours of UVB lighting per day either via natural sunlight or a UVB lamp. When indoors, be sure to turn off the lamp at night to mimic a natural day-night cycle.
Humidity
Box turtles prefer a humidity level of around 60%. You can maintain this through daily misting, as well as by using a substrate that retains some moisture.
Substrate
Substrate is the material that lines the bottom of your box turtle’s enclosure. It helps to maintain humidity and satisfy the turtle’s desire to burrow. Plus, it can make the enclosure look and feel more natural. Thus, aim to use a substrate that mimics the turtle’s natural environment. Many owners opt for chemical-free topsoil, leaves, and moss. Layer it at least 4 inches deep to allow your turtle to burrow.
How to Get a Box Turtle to Eat
Food and Water
Because box turtles are omnivores, they need a varied diet. Keeping them outside allows them to supplement what you feed them with what’s in the environment. Fresh vegetables, fruits, insects, low-fat meats, and pinky mice are some foods that can be offered. There are also commercial diets available for box turtles, though you should supplement those with fresh foods.
Place the food on a plate, paver, or other surface to prevent the turtle from ingesting its substrate. Most young turtles need feeding every 24 hours while some adults might eat every other day. Consult your vet on the correct proportions for your individual turtle. Clean water in a shallow dish should be provided at all times.
Common Health and Behavior Problems
The most serious ailment among many turtles is metabolic bone disease due to insufficient UVB exposure.3 This painful condition can lead to weakened bones and death.
Respiratory infections, usually from insufficient humidity or low temperatures, are also common among box turtles. Symptoms include wheezing, mucus around the mouth and nose, lethargy, and a lack of appetite. If your turtle experiences frequent respiratory infections, it could be a sign of vitamin A deficiency.4 Avoid feeding iceberg lettuce to a turtle with a respiratory infection. The animals love it, but it has almost no nutritional value.
Box turtles also are prone to parasitic infections.5 (Captive-bred varieties are at a much lower risk.) This type of infection doesn't always show obvious signs but can be diagnosed by a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles.
In addition, box turtles can contract a painful condition known as shell rot, which is caused by a bacterial or fungal infection.5 The shell will appear cracked or dry, and it might emit an unpleasant odor.
All of these ailments should receive treatment by a veterinarian.
Choosing Your Common Box Turtle
Around the world, box turtle populations are declining. Because of this, many states have laws against keeping wild box turtles as pets. The population decline is just one reason to get a captive-bred pet box turtle from a reputable breeder or rescue organization. Another good reason is you'll be able to learn about the turtle's history and any health issues. Plus, wild-caught turtles generally don't adjust well to captivity and often die from stress.
Know what to look for to ensure you're adopting a healthy turtle. Any bumps or redness on the shell, mucus in the nasal area or mouth, or cloudy eyes can indicate a turtle with health problems.6 Plus, make sure the turtle has a firm shell and no swelling on its body. It's also best to avoid purchasing a box turtle during the fall or winter when it should be hibernating. A new environment at this time can cause extra stress.
10 Types of Turtles That Make Great Pets
Different Species of Box Turtles
If you're interested in box turtles, check out:
Ornate Box Turtle
Three-Toed Box Turtle
Eastern Box Turtle
Otherwise, check out other types of reptiles and amphibians that can be your new pet.
1 russian tortoise left!!! Russian Tortoise (Testudo [Agrionemys] horsfieldii) A popular pet tortoise, Russian tortoises are one of the most readily available tortoise species. They are small, making them easy for most people with limited space to keep. They are also feisty, eager to eat and more active than some other tortoises. When allowed to burrow, Russian tortoises also have one of the highest tolerances for temperature extremes. They are one of the few species that can be kept outdoors in Las Vegas, Nev., year round. These factors make Russian tortoises attractive for new tortoisekeepers and a fun tortoise for seasoned veterans. Russian Tortoise Availability Most Russian tortoises are imported into the United States. Compared to the number of imported tortoises, captive production of this species is relatively low. You should assume that most adult or subadult Russian tortoises for sale are wild-caught (imported). Captive-bred babies are rarely raised to adult size and sold at the low prices that these imported Russian tortoises sell for. Russian Tortoise Size Russian tortoise hatchlings measure about 1 inch in carapace length. As they mature, they reach a maximum length of 8 to 10 inches. Females are normally a little larger than males at full size. When females are about 6 inches long, they are large enough to begin producing eggs. Russian tortoises are almost always imported as young adults between 4 and 5 inches in carapace length. These tortoises are large enough to handle subprime conditions during shipping but small enough to fit many in a fixed-size shipping crate. Russian tortoises larger than about 6 inches long can be difficult to find. Russian Tortoise Life Span Russian tortoises can live more than 40 years. Raised on a lean, high-fiber diet, captive-raised animals in low-stress environments have higher life expectancies. Russian Tortoise Caging The preferred method for raising Russian tortoises is an outdoor enclosure in a warmer climate. Pens for one or two adults should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet. Enclosure walls should be set into the ground 6 to 12 inches to prevent the tortoises from digging under the sides, and they should be 12 inches or higher aboveground. Russian tortoises are burrowers. They tend to dig into corners and against objects. Placing large rocks under the soil in the corners helps prevent tortoises from digging out. In higher or lower temperatures, they attempt to go underground to insulate themselves from the extremes. Building Russian tortoises underground hide boxes that maintain more stable temperatures helps to keep them from burrowing too much. Shaded grassy areas that get regular water help to keep smaller tortoises cool. Russian tortoises hatchling to adult. Russian tortoises are sure to try to eat any plant accessible to them in their pens. They prefer wide-leafed plants and weeds. They really do not eat grass unless they are out of options. Check all plants in the enclosure to ensure they are safe. Russian tortoises housed indoors can be caged in large plastic bins, stock tanks or small plastic pools. One to two adults can be kept in an enclosure measuring at least 5 square feet, with sidewalls 8 inches or higher. More space is much better. Babies can get away with smaller housing. Tortoises kept in small enclosures become restless and spend much of the day trying to get out of the enclosures. Many different substrates can be used. I prefer a combination of dirt or sand mixed with peat moss or fine coconut coir. Using only sand makes running around somewhat difficult for the tortoises. Their feet sink with every step. Mixing soils helps to solidify the foundation. I also like to include a few large, flat rocks in an indoor enclosure. They help file down the tortoises’ nails and give them a clean surface for food. Russian tortoises also enjoy climbing, so try to provide an enclosure that gives them that opportunity. Russian Tortoise Lighting and Temperature Russian tortoises living outdoors and allowed to dig burrows are very capable of taking care of themselves as far as temperatures are concerned. I keep them outdoors in Las Vegas year round without additional heat sources. Winter lows are in the 20s (degrees Fahrenheit), and summer highs near 120 degrees. Russian tortoises can handle high temperatures only if they can get underground where it’s cooler. Keeping any tortoise on an outdoor patio or anything aboveground when it’s over 100 degrees is too hot for them. Russian tortoises are most active when temperatures are between 60 and 90 degrees, but they remain active during the cooler parts of the day in midsummer, or they sleep underground in a burrow. Russian tortoises hibernate underground during the winter if they are allowed some time to dig a burrow before cold temperatures set in. In Las Vegas, my tortoises bed down at various times during the fall and come out of hibernation in mid-February. Indoors, Russian tortoises can be maintained at normal room temperatures: 68 to 80 degrees. They should also have access to an area heated by an overhead light. This spot should be in the 90- to 100-degree range. Like most diurnal, herbivorous reptiles, they need a UVB light in their indoor enclosures to help them properly process the calcium in their diets. These tortoises can handle nighttime temperatures into the low 50s without a problem. Russian tortoises do not need to hibernate to be healthy, so tortoises kept indoors and maintained at stable temperatures will never skip a beat while winter winds below outside. Keep lights on 12 to 14 hours a day, and turn off all light and heat sources at night. Russian tortoises hibernate underground during the winter if they are allowed some time to dig a burrow before cold temperatures set in. Russian Tortoise Food Russian tortoises are enthusiastic eaters, and the destruction they wreak on the plants in most outdoor enclosures is proof of this. They prefer broadleaf weeds and eagerly eat almost any leafy greens or vegetables offered to them. We regularly use spring mixes, which have several leafy ingredients in them. We supplement with kale, collared greens, turnip greens and any of the darker lettuce types. Variety is the key, and for their size, these tortoises do some serious eating. I plant many different types of safe, leafy weeds in their outdoor enclosures in the spring. Dandelions are one of my favorite food sources for all tortoises. It might also be useful to partition off parts of the enclosure to allow plants to recover, and rotate the tortoises’ access to the separate areas. We also plant grasses, clovers and various other safe plants throughout the enclosure. If given full access to all available space, they will almost surely eat the plants down to nothing by midsummer. Russian Tortoise Water Russian tortoises can have small water dishes in their outdoor enclosures. We use shallow, low sided dishes that are glazed to make cleaning easy. Cleaning needs to be done on a regular basis, as most tortoises tend to soak in their dishes and “dirty” them while they’re in there. I provide water bowls during the hottest parts of the year, but I don’t during cooler times. Tortoises living in areas with regular rainfall drink from puddles and leaves. If they live in areas with prolonged dry periods, such as Las Vegas, offering them water helps to keep them hydrated. When Russian tortoises are housed indoors, I prefer not to have standing water in the bowls because they tend to defecate in them while soaking. In shallow water, the tortoises usually begin drinking immediately and flush their systems at the same time. They can be soaked outside the enclosure in shallow water once or twice a week for 15 to 30 minutes to get them fully hydrated. Babies and juveniles tend to dry out much quicker than larger, more established tortoises. Because of this, I briefly soak baby Russian tortoises in shallow water up to three times a week, for 10 to 15 minutes, whether they’re housed outdoors or indoors. Russian Tortoise Health For best results, purchase an alert, active Russian tortoise with bright, clean eyes, or buy one from a reputable source that will guarantee at least a live arrival. 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These parasites are not a huge burden on the animals in the wild, but when tortoises are confined to a small area and they endure the additional stresses of importation, the parasites can build up their numbers to levels potentially deadly to the tortoise. Taking a fresh f***l sample to a reptile veterinarian can get you some idea of the types of parasites present, their numbers and the drugs needed to treat them. Russian tortoises can also be prone to respiratory infections if they are kept in cool or wet enclosures. They need to be able to dry out, particularly if temperatures are low. Russian Tortoise Handling and Temperament Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, tortoises generally should not be handled with any regularity. They are easily stressed when overhandled, and children tend to drop them when spooked. These stress factors can lead to a decline in a tortoise’s activity levels and health. Adult Russian tortoises are generally more resistant to handling, but all tortoises should be handled carefully. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them. Allow them to carry on with their intended ways. Tyler Stewart is the source for Russian Tortoise information. Please visit his site at Tortoise and Turtle lovers TortoiseSupply.com Tortoise tables Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Turtle Giant 🐢The Friendly Russian Tortoise Owners Group🐢 Russian Tortoise Ornate Box Turtles: Biology, Conservation, Husbandry, and Photo Sharing Deb's Eastern Box Turtle Rescue Box Turtle Save the Box Turtles manuel fontenot Sulcata Tortoise Sulcata Tortoise Lovers SAVE THE TORTOISE SPECIES
What do box turtles eat?
Box turtles are omnivorous, meaning that they eat both plant- and animal-based foods. Some box turtles, like the ornate box turtle, eat insects. They have a sharp eye and keen sense of smell. Young, growing box turtles, up to 4-6 years of age, tend to be primarily carnivores, while adults tend to be herbivorous (eat only plant matter).
As a guideline, your box turtle's diet should be about 50% plant-based material and 50% animal-based material. Different breeds of box turtles have slightly different nutritional needs. There are many different opinions regarding exactly what box turtles should eat in order to have a nutritionally balanced diet; speak to a veterinarian familiar with box turtles to determine specifically what to feed your box turtle.
How often should I feed my box turtle?
Most young turtles eat daily, while older turtles can be fed daily or every other day, depending upon the pet's individual appetite, body weight, and overall health.
What types of plants I can feed my turtle?
Most (80-90%) of the plant material fed to box turtles should be vegetables and flowers, and only 10-20% should be fruit. As a rule, dark, leafy greens should make up the largest part of the diet. Yellow, red, and orange vegetables can also be included. Avoid light green vegetables, including iceberg or head lettuce and celery, as they are composed mainly of fiber and water with few nutrients. The inner, light-colored parts of some vegetables are less nutritious than the darker green outer leaves, so they should not be offered.
Acceptable vegetables that should represent a high percentage of the box turtle’s diet include collard greens, beet greens, mustard greens, broccoli, turnip greens, alfalfa hay, bok choy, kale, parsley, Swiss chard, watercress, clover, red or green cabbage, savory, cilantro, kohlrabi, bell peppers, green beans, escarole, and dandelion. A lesser percentage of the diet can include cactus, various squash, sprouts, cooked sweet potato, parsnips, okra, cucumber, asparagus, mushrooms, carrots, peas, and corn. Swiss chard, spinach, and beet greens should be fed sparingly, as they contain oxalates that can bind to calcium and other trace minerals, preventing these nutrients’ absorption in the turtle’s intestine. Diets composed primarily of these vegetables can ultimately lead to nutrient deficiencies. Caution should also be exercised when feeding cabbage, kale, or mustard greens in excess, as these vegetables contain goitrogens; excessive consumption of these items may lead to hypothyroidism.
Fruit should be fed more sparingly than vegetables, since they are often preferred by box turtles over vegetables and tend to be less nutritious. Fruits to offer include apples, pears, bananas (with skin), mango, grapes, star fruit, raisins, peaches, tomato, guava, kiwis, and melons. Fruits that are particularly healthy include figs (which are high in calcium), apricots, dates, raspberries, and strawberries. As a treat, flowers such as geraniums, carnations, dandelions, hibiscus, nasturtiums, and roses may also be offered.
"Fruit should be fed more sparingly than vegetables, since they are often preferred by box turtles over vegetables and tend to be less nutritious."
Vegetables and fruit can be offered cooked or raw, although raw tends to be more nutritious, as cooking can destroy many nutrients. Thoroughly wash all fruits and vegetables before feeding them. Flowers can be home-grown or purchased from floral shops. Often, floral shops throw out older, wilting flowers. While these may be unacceptable for sale to the public, some store owners are willing to offer them at reduced cost for pet food. Be sure that no chemicals have been applied to the flowers or water before offering them to your turtle.
Food should be presented to box turtles in a shallow, clean dish that is not easily flipped over. Vegetables should be finely chopped and mixed together to discourage the turtle from eating only preferred food items.
What animal-based protein foods I can offer my turtle?image 13
Depending on the age, breed, and health status of your box turtle, your veterinarian may or may not recommend feeding animal-based protein sources. When offered, some appropriate animal-based protein sources include grasshoppers, crickets, mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, moths, slugs, earthworms, and hard-boiled eggs. Commercially available reptile pellets provide an excellent protein source. Live prey, such as crickets and various worms, should either be raised inside by the owner or purchased from a pet store, bait store, or reptile breeder. Collecting insects from outside to feed pet turtles is generally not recommended, as fertilizers and insecticides on insects can be toxic to turtles.
The key is to feed a wide variety of healthy items, including both plant- and animal-based protein sources, to provide your box turtle with balanced nutrition.
Do I need to give my box turtle vitamins and minerals?
Like most reptiles, turtles require more dietary calcium than phosphorus. Most veterinarians recommend lightly sprinkling the vegetable matter offered to the box turtle with a calcium powder (calcium gluconate, lactate, or carbonate) 2-3 times per week. In addition, a light sprinkling of a multivitamin-vitamin mineral powder made for reptiles is also recommended weekly, especially if it contains vitamin D3 which can be toxic to turtles if over-supplemented. The best way to ensure reptiles are consuming the supplements is to dust them onto small portions of their vegetables, and feed those dusted portions first.
"Turtles require more dietary calcium than phosphorus."
A common problem seen in pet box turtles is over-supplementation with vitamins (especially vitamin D3) and minerals. Check with your veterinarian about the need to supplement your pet's diet with any kind of vitamin or mineral.
What are box turtles' water requirements?
Fresh clean water should be available to box turtles at all times. Box turtles not only drink from the water bowl but will also bathe in it. Provide water in a shallow dish, crock, or pan that cannot be easily tipped over, and ensure the dish has some sort of a "ramp" (such as a rock, log, or commercially available turtle ramp) that allows the box turtle to easily climb in and out for soaking and drinking. The water level should reach up to its chin when its head comes out of its shell. Change the water daily, and clean the water bowl frequently, as many box turtles will defecate or eliminate in their water bowls.
You can mist your turtle with a water sprayer, too, a few times a week as well to help keep it hydrated.
Since all turtles can carry Salmonella bacteria that is transmittable to people, always wash your hands thoroughly after feeding, cleaning, or handling turtles.
TORTOISE AND TURTLE LOVERS
