Helping puppies and dogs become calm, confident, cooperative, self-controlled!
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The magic of clicker training and Tellington TTouch® for good manners and behavior issues.
Wonderful book!!
My book, Wag: The Science of Making Your Dog Happy, is published in the UK today. It's available from all good bookstores, including your local indie and via Bookshop (which supports indie bookstores): https://uk.bookshop.org/lists/books-by-zazie-todd-phd
How to get your dog comfortable in a baby pool! I’m gonna try this.
Changing mindset improves dog behavior!
How we view our dog’s unwanted behaviors can lead down the wrong path--or the path that actually works to improve things.
Labeling is one wrong path: this is when we use labels like dominant or stubborn or super-friendly to try to explain why the dog is doing the unwanted behavior. But changing that mindset to a more objective view leads to real solutions.
For example, a very common behavior for dogs, jumping up to greet, is often believed to be due to personality (labeling) or disobedience (she knows Sit, she just won’t do it). So this mindset causes annoyance and repeated “corrections,” which may temporarily suppress the jumping but doesn’t keep it from happening again—and can even make things worse.
But when we understand that that the real reasons for jumping up (and many other unwanted behaviors) are emotions, over-arousal, and a history of reinforcement, we have proven, science-based, positive solutions.
In real life, until a better behavior is installed, we need first to physically prevent the dog from (a) being able to jump on people and (b) getting reinforced with attention, even sometimes.
For more on this topic, see my blog post on obedience versus cooperation. https://www.dogsbehavingbetter.com/blog/lets-replace-obedience-with-cooperation
Obedience mindset. Another attitude that often blocks real behavior improvement is thinking that we always need to TELL dogs what to do and not do—even though we know from experience that they cannot respond when they are over-excited, worried, fearful, frustrated, angry—in other words, Not Thinking.
A far more effective approach is to teach dogs how to feel calmer (which sometimes means feeling safe) in certain situations or environments. With this type of training, we see a lot less—or none—of the unwanted behaviors happening. A calmer dog learns to control herself.
When you see frenzied barking, zooming or bouncing around, lunging on leash, hu***ng, or repeated jumping up on people, remember that Sit, Come, and NO simply won’t work. And repeating commands just adds more pressure to a dog already over her threshold, whose mind has gone off-line.
There’s a better way. We can teach what TO do in those challenging situations, using much easier training set-ups.
When calmness comes first, the average dog is able to think and learn that a desirable (to us) behavior works out better for her than what she was doing before. With enough practice under threshold, the context can become the cue for the new, replacement behavior.
Focusing on calmness over obedience has major benefits for all of us! We don’t have to get upset with our dogs, feel embarrassed and powerless, and worry about our own safety and others’.
Here are 5 easy ways to help you and your dog to start feeling better and behaving better: https://www.dogsbehavingbetter.com/blog/1-training-myth-my-dog-needs-to-be-more-obedient
Good behavior is not so much about responding to commands . As you have probably noticed, commands and cues don’t work well whenever a dog is scared, anxious, over-aroused or over-excited. That’s because emotions block thinking. This is when you need to change emotional responses in order to imp...
Bouki and Mischa, almost 2 year-old Yorkies, are starting to settle on their mat. We’re going for a relaxed Down, then will add in distractions.
Just 2 weeks ago, Bouki was barking at me nonstop for almost an hour. But thinking dogs are quiet!
Pay attention to expressions of concern.
With all body language (whether canine or human), context is everything. Paw lifts can indicate concern, but also be a positive sign and used in anticipation of play or food. If you're holding a treat and your dog is looking at you with a wide open mouth and relaxed body language, whilst doing a paw lift, it is probably anticipation.
The next post will show a paw lift in anticipation.
Waking up in the night does not always mean you have to take the puppy outside.
Puppies sleep schedules are irregular. Exercise, dimming lights, and companionship are great ways to get a puppy to sleep through the night.
Fool/fidget and Fawn are often misinterpreted as positive emotions.
WHAT THE F?
Recognising stress responses in dogs.
Fight or flight are well known reactions to fear or stress, but these other “F” words are also important to understand and be aware of as they may not always be so obvious.
Freeze, Fawn, Fidget or Fool around are also responses to stress or fear and are also commonly seen in people.
Some dogs may have a genetic predisposition to one type of response while some react based on previous experience - what has worked for them before or what hasn’t. Some dogs have different reactions depending on the specific context.
Recognising and taking note of situations or circumstances where these responses are seen is important in understanding how our dogs are feeling.
When we recognise a fear or a stress response, we are able to intervene and advocate for our dogs.
If ripping up toys is fun for your dog, offer other things to shred, like boxes.
Tearing things up is a natural dog behavior. It's fun for them. It meets a biological need in both survival and play. But it can be a problem if that shredding is directed onto things we deem inappropriate, or cannot replace. The solution is to manage the environment so that inappropriate target items (your favorite throw pillows for example) are not easily accessible and to provide an appropriate outlet for the behavior. My personal favorite is a box.
I get a monthly BarkBox, because I love to gift things to my dogs. But the box is also a great size and density for shredding. We all also order too many things online, and thus usually have a plethora of those "really good boxes" hanging out taking up space in the garage. I will take some old news paper, packing paper, or even toilet paper rolls and toss them into the box along with some tasty treats (or even kibble if I am feeding a meal this way.) Close and seal up the box and toss it to one of the dogs. They delight in the destruction and it provides a great amount of mental enrichment. At the end there is some clean up on my part that has to be done, but much preferable to something irreplaceable like a photo album. The pieces also take up much more space in the recycling bin.
Letting a dog who gets particular joy from shredding things up destroy an appropriate item protects the things in my home I don't want to be shredded, and provides a wonderful outlet for the dogs. This is also another activity that is great for those days when your schedule isn't providing enough room for you to take that extra long walk, or resources are used up for the time and energy to do other things with our dogs. Currently where I live everything is on fire, the resulting terrible air quality means I (as a severe asthmatic) have to be really limited on my outdoor time. This means the dogs aren't getting the long hikes and other outdoor activities they are used to. We are making good use of the box stash in the garage this week!
This is what Ive been trying to get across for the entire 13 years I’ve been working with dogs and their people!
Is it kissing or appeasement?
Can dogs lick from affection ? Absolutely ✅
Can they lick from feeling anxious ? Yes ✅
Not all licking is appeasement licking. Appeasement licking is usually paired with other stress signals or calming signals and I know that may be tricky for some to notice.
This is one of those behaviours that dogs show us that can be very misread.
Affection ❓Greeting ❓Stress ❓
Licking is completely normal for dogs. It can be a healthy and socially acceptable behaviour between other dogs. It is relaxing, soothing and can be displayed for so many reasons.
However appeasement licking can also be shown to other dogs too, even ones they know and live with.
If you are in any doubt over why your dog licks either you or another dog, video the interaction.
Watch that video and look for tell tale signs of stress (some are mentioned in the graphic).
One of the worst feelings in the world is when I have to inform someone that those certain types of "kisses" do not come from a place of affection but can be from a place of fear, mistrust and stress.
Please respect that these graphics take time and effort to make. Everyone is free to share on social media🙂, however off social media use of these marked graphics is prohibited.
Unmarked graphics are available for $ 1.20 USD or $ 2 NZD each (approx), these are then able to be used off Facebook for client handouts, posters or for personal use.
Screen shots are a violation of the copyright.
Please visit ABC Dogs Patreon Shop for unmarked graphics. All graphics belong to ABC Dogs NZ and are under copyright.
Management is usually some kind of barrier that prevents rehearsal of undesirable behaviors.
We absolutely need this step to transition to replacement behaviors.
I am often accused of avoiding training, when I hide my reactive dog behind a tree or a car, as another dog passes, but in reality I am trying to ensure we continue to progress with training. Not every situation or environment is conducive to learning. In order, to ensure training is successful, we need to prevent opportunities for the behaviour to be practiced, between structured sessions to modify the behaviour. If we don't implement management and we allow our dog to go over their coping threshold and display reactive behaviour, it hinders training progress, regardless of how well the sessions are going. It can be a case of one step forwards and three steps back.
Therefore, if a dog is off-lead, if the dog's proximity is too close or the environment is too distracting, I will avoid that dog, block my dog's vision or lead him away with an emergency cue and treat. I will wait until the circumstances and environment are safe and appropriate for training. Doing this, prevents trigger stacking and ensures my dog is beginning to build up a history of positive experiences with other dogs. Other management for reactive behaviour may include:
- Choosing walking environments carefully.
- Avoiding busy times for dog walkers.
- Blocking visuals in the window or door in the home.
- Eliminating stressors where possible.
- Increasing the distance between your dog and others.
- Changing direction or routes to avoid dogs.
- Scatter feeding as a distraction.
- Having breaks from walks.
- Providing enrichment for decompression.
Management comes in many forms and should be used to address a variety of behavioural struggles. It is a necessary part of training and behaviour modification. Its why we call it 'the magic of management.' It is not the avoidance of training but the preservation of progress! - Holly Leake
Seeking safety is what drives a lot of aggression.
I NEED TO FEEL SAFE!
Like all living creatures, including us, dogs just want to feel safe – it’s a basic survival need.
When we think about feeling safe it’s natural to just think about not being harmed or being in danger, but it’s not just about physical safety - feeling emotionally or psychologically safe is just as important.
While physical safety may be obvious and simpler to address, emotional safety is far more complex and not always easy to recognise or identify.
The same applies to our dogs – they are sentient beings whose behaviour is triggered and driven by emotions.
So many behaviour problems that we see in dogs stem from the brain saying– “this is not safe!”
A dog that lunges and barks or behaves aggressively with another dog or person is probably doing so because they feel unsafe. They are trying to make the scary thing go away.
A dog that is guarding resources is doing so because they are afraid that the resource will be taken away – they don’t feel safe when another animal or person approaches that resource.
A dog that is reacting to fireworks or thunderstorms or other noises is doing so because they don’t feel safe. The same can be said for separation distress – the feelings of panic when left alone – “I am not safe!”.
Some dogs may never get over a specific fear, but doing all we can to help dogs feel safe in our world is one of the most important gifts we can give them.
Our first responsibility should not be about training, obedience or trying to change behaviour, but to focus first and foremost on building trust, self-confidence, resilience, creating a safe and secure base and being the person that our dogs can rely on and trust.
In the words of Dr. Gabor Maté - "Feeling safe is the treatment and creating safety is the work".
In my words (as it pertains to dogs) – It is our responsibility to put in the work to enable our dogs to feel safe and when they feel safe, this will be part of the treatment or the solution to the problem.
Very timely as I just wrote a blog post on the same theme, posted earlier today.
Instead of asking, “How do I get my dog to obey me?” we should ask, “Is my dog happy?” and “How can I make them happier?”
Changing mindset changes behavior.
How we view our dog’s unwanted behaviors can lead down the wrong path--or the path that actually works to improve things.
https://www.dogsbehavingbetter.com/blog/mindset-matters
I never understood why some breeds are called "tough" and therefore allegedly need tough handling. 😔
I was updating some older blog posts and came across this one. And since today is a sunny day, it's seems worth sharing again. Reward-based methods aren't just for sunny days and easy dogs and puppies. They are for all dogs.
Great advice here
There are things you can start doing today to help your dog who is afraid of fireworks.
Angel is an earth angel!
Sadly, her owner is in hospice and she needs a new home. She’s 10 years old and compatible with at least some dogs. Please comment below if you’re interested.
Why avoid flexi-leashes?
They might seem convenient, but they can be dangerous. They offer only limited control over your dog, increasing the risk of accidents, injuries, and break aways. And the dog feels almost constant pressure, so that can become meaningless when it should mean Slow or Stop.
Traditional fixed-length leashes provide better control and safety during walks. They are also better for re-connecting with your dog, avoiding too much focus on the environment. And they can be loose most of the time, if you know how to handle the leash well.
You can get extra-long leashes, starting at 12 or 15 feet, for walks in parks where you can let your dog safely explore.
For help with leash manners at both ends of the leash, see my walking solution package:
Private, professional, positive training for dogs pulling or lunging, by training for loose-leash walks with harness.
If loud noises upset your dog, you can help them get through July 4 by getting ready now.
If you live in the US, then this is your friendly reminder to start preparing for the 4th of July celebrations! It's officially ONE MONTH AWAY!
Starting these preparations a month in advance can help your pet build resilience and feel more secure during the Independence Day festivities.
If you need help with your sound-sensitive pet, don't hesitate to contact our team! We offer services in Chicago and virtually worldwide.
Visit here for more info: https://petharmonytraining.com/services/clients/
So many benefits for so little effort!
ESSENTIAL ENRICHMENT
Imagine being kept in the same space each and every day. You know every blade of grass, every scent, every brick, every piece of fence. You have no books to read, no TV to watch, no one to talk to, no interaction with the outside world and absolutely nothing to do.
Would this situation begin to affect your behaviour and influence your emotional, mental or physical state? What about our dogs?
Many dogs live in this type of environment and yet we wonder why they develop behaviour problems, bark excessively, destroy the garden, become over excited, over aroused or maybe just shut down or sleep all day having completely lost interest in the world.
Many behaviour problems are caused by boredom, a lack of mental and physical stimulation or being confined to the same space every day.
Providing enrichment for dogs is so important for their wellbeing and really doesn’t require that much effort from us.
There are so many simple ways to provide enrichment. An online search for DIY enrichment ideas will provide lots of ideas.
Older dogs may enjoy a ride in the car, sitting at a window watching the world go by, bringing the outside in – sticks, cones, grass etc. from different areas placed in a box for them to rummage through and smell, dinner in the park, or even just playing some doggie music will make a difference.
“Chronic inescapable boredom can be extremely aversive, and under-stimulation can harm neural, cognitive and behavioral flexibility.” - A biological perspective on animal boredom and suggestions for its scientific investigation by Charlotte Burn - The Royal Veterinary College
Here are some links for enrichment ideas -
Enrichment ideas by Laura Gendron
https://missbehaviortraining.com/blog/diyenrichment
DIY boredom busting toys by Luke Balsam
https://wunderdogmagazine.com/care/awesome-diy-dog-toys-our-dog-trainer-made-some-boredom-busting-toys-and-you-can-too/
Link to a free introduction on ACE free work by Sarah Fisher -
https://animalcentrededucation.teachable.com/p/watch-this-space
Walks in your own neighborhood may be just too stressful for your dog and you.
Reactivity can be improved a lot with b-mod training, but it can’t work unless you temporarily suspend walks or take them in quiet places.
Choice and control are primary reinforcers, like food!
Education always beats experience only. Fortunately, some of us have both.
Just a PSA: Dog training is an industry where credentials are sometimes seen as optional. It's the wild west out here some days. Ask your trainer about THEIR training, and research the answer they give you!
Here’s one of the low-level signs of stress to notice. This is where we can intervene and move away easily—before things escalate and we find ourselves trying to drag our dog away.
THE LOOK AWAY
Looking away is one of the calming signals in dog body language.
Just like a hard stare or prolonged eye contact may be a sign that a dog’s about to react, looking away is meant to calm a situation down.
The head position when looking away will vary – from side to side, holding in one position or subtle quick turns are all common variations, all while avoiding direct eye contact.
I have often watched in fascination when one of my dogs uses this form of communication with an insect! Her favourite thing to do is to hunt, catch and then play with a Parktown Prawn (King Cricket).
She means them no harm (I think) and just wants to engage in a game of how high can you jump before I can catch you.
She will carefully carry the cricket in her mouth without hurting it to the middle of the garden where there are no bushes where it may escape to.
After a quick play bow (from her, not the cricket!) the games begin. The game can go on for some time and when the cricket gets tired or plays dead, she will stop playing, sit quietly, avoid eye contact and keep looking away before starting the game again.
By this time, I usually feel really sorry for the cricket, will rescue it and put it out of reach, but I think this is a good example of how she uses the body language of looking away to try to calm the situation down, even if her intentions are completely selfish! I have no idea if the cricket understands what she is trying to communicate.
Body language can be subtle and fleeting, but with careful observation and knowing what to look for most of us can learn to recognize and interpret what our dogs are saying.
It’s always important to look at the context, the situation and especially what the rest of the body is doing when deciphering this amazing language.
Being able to understand a dog’s emotional state through their body language helps us to predict behaviour, prevent potential problems or allows us to just enjoy observing their language.
Improvements on fetching, which has its drawbacks.
Socialization is Not for dogs who already have big feels about other dogs. Reactive dogs are likely to get worse by exposing them to their fears. They need specialized training.
Ever had a friend pressure you into a situation you absolutely dread, because they love it themselves?
I've seen so many social media videos of people forcing their partners on scary rollercoasters, despite their fear of heights or someone hiring a clown for a birthday party, despite their friend having a terrible phobia of them. They believe it's all harmless fun but in reality, forcing people to face their phobias is not comical. It's traumatic. They don't suddenly conquer their fear or learn anything, apart from that friend can no longer be trusted.
Pressuring your dog into social situations because you believe it will be good for them is like a friend pressuring you to do something that you will find personally traumatic. Its not fun, educational or beneficial to the relationship. If your dog is afraid of dogs, then dog day care, kennels, dog parks and pack walks are the last places they want to be. If your dog is afraid of people, having someone touch them with no option to flee or make it stop is going to make their fear so much worse.
Some aversive trainers will promote the notion that you should force your dog to face their fears but there is a significant difference between choosing to face your fears and someone forcing you to. Dogs that are afraid of something need distance from that scary thing, and the only way you can start to change that is by showing them they can trust you to keep them safe.
Would you feel safe with a friend that forced you to face your worst fears and ignored your pleas for help? - Holly Leake ©
Please feel free to share this post, but please do not copy and paste the text or edit the graphic in anyway.
Mental exercise is Huge!
Great training advice for a few different scenarios. If you need help, I have a package for that.
https://www.dogsbehavingbetter.com/concerning-behaviors
When your dog is aggressive with other dogs it can be disturbing. Observation of what triggers the behavior and modification can help.
Feeding "people food" is not the problem. It's about where and when you feed from the table--or in the kitchen.
Management can prevent begging by tethering your dog nearby with something else to do. But if it's a habit you'd like to change with training, see my newest blog post.
https://www.dogsbehavingbetter.com/.../thank-you-for-not...
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Unlike most dogs, Scout and Torre can safely enjoy chews together. They often choose to lie down inches apart because they don’t worry about the other one taking their valuable resource.
What do you think Clemmie is feeling when she hears this music (only this one gets her howling)?
From my family (including the furry ones!) to yours, I hope this Valentine’s Day is filled with UBER amounts of love, joy, and lots of fuzzy, warm snuggles! Happy Valentine’s Day to all you amazing pet parents! ❤️
My canine nephews got into a vicious fight. Good thing I was right there!
Bruce Lee, my nominee for smartest and cutest puppy under 5 lbs., learned to go into his kennel, lie down, and wait for release. This took just 10-15 mins.
The chin rest can help your dog relax, become calm. Eventually you can take it on the road.
Kringle dreams of running with the deer! Or a Braunschweiger Kong.
Attempting the double spin. The triple sowcow (sp?) is still under construction
Torre meets a turtle
Lucky girl Scout can entertain and exercise herself with a Tether tug
Terriers need to dig! Scout's parents designed and built this digging box for food and toys. Fun!
Baby Border Collie Tito loves his new food puzzle. I have many puzzles and other food toys, to provide a mental challenge and fulfill the instinct to work for food.
Torre is relaxing with her iCalm, while I'm working. Beautiful (and portable) music from Through a Dog's Ear
Teach your dog to target. It's the Swiss Army knife of behaviors! www.talbotpositivedogtrainer.com/BlogTargeting.html
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The science of clicker training plus the magic of Tellington TTouch® helps dogs become more calm, cooperative, connected, and self-controlled. I teach life skills and improve or resolve more serious behavior issues.
