08/06/2025
One of the most common questions someone asks me is, "What's in your pet first aid kit?" I prefer to put together my kit. I don't have anything against pre-packaged kits, but they rarely have everything I want or that the company cannot legally add. My kits evolve as I learn about new products.
Without further fanfare, this is my current kit:
1. Activated charcoal, usually in pill form, absorbs ingested poisons. Any item in a poisoning kit should NOT be used unless directed by a veterinarian.
2. Antibiotic cream for wounds. Do not use triple antibiotic cream if you groom cats. While it is rare, cats may be allergic to the combination of the three ingredients. If the cat has such an allergy, it is fatal.
3. Antihistamine and safety pin for minor allergic reactions. Look specifically for diphenhydramine gels with a liquid center. Use the safety pin to puncture the gel cap and sq**rt the liquid directly onto the pet's tongue or gums. It is the fastest way for an anaphylactic pet to absorb the antihistamine. Consult a veterinarian for proper dosing. Not all pets can safely use antihistamines, which may interfere with other medications and medical conditions.
4. Apps for smartphones. The first is the Pet Poison Helpline or Pet Poison Hotline. There is a cost, but it will dial the number for you. As minutes matter in a poisoning case, it is invaluable if you cannot reach a local veterinarian for instructions. The second is a veterinarian locator, which is usually free. For mobile groomers, locating a veterinarian quickly can be a lifesaver.
5. Baking soda to absorb topical poisons or chemicals.
6. Band-Aids for you. Bandaids will probably be your most replenished item.
7. Bandanas have multiple uses. They replace triangular bandages and can be used as slings to take the weight off of an injured limb.
8. Expired gift cards. They are a perfect size to cushion pad injuries on larger pets. Place gauze on both sides of the card and securely wrap the cards and gauze to the paw with vet wrap. In addition, the cards can flick out bee stingers. Place the card at the base of the stinger where it meets the skin and lift it up and out.
9. Eyewash serves double duty. Use eyewash to flush out both eyes and wound injuries.
10. Gauze comes in three varieties: gauze rolls, gauze pads, and nonstick gauze pads. The gauze roll is wider and is suitable for larger wounds. The nonstick gauze is more expensive, but I will use it as the first gauze pad on the wound and then place the cheaper gauze on top of it. The nonstick gauze will not remove the scab when it is time to replace the bandaging.
11. Honey packets for hypoglycemic pets. Stress, seizures, or an owner giving a pet too much insulin can result in low blood sugar. Hypoglycemia is a severe condition that may result in the pet's death. Signs include listlessness, staggering, tremors, muscle weakness, and seizures. Do not give the pet honey unless directed by a veterinarian, as hypoglycemia and ketone acidosis (KA) symptoms can be similar. Giving honey to a pet in KA can be fatal.
12. Hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting in a dog. Consult a veterinarian first before using hydrogen peroxide. Dosage will vary. If the ingested substance is caustic, do not induce vomiting, as it will burn the throat on its way out. You cannot use hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting in cats as they cannot metabolize it.
13. Ice will constrict blood flow and slow bleeding. I do not keep ice in my pet first aid kit. Your client's freezer or shop refrigerator would be your best bet.
14. Liquid bandage is an asset if you use it properly. Misused, it can damage surrounding tissue and trap bacteria in the wound. Your veterinarian can instruct you on proper usage. In many states, using liquid bandage without veterinarian guidance is considered practicing veterinary medicine.
15. Muzzles are a must. If you need to use your pet's first aid kit, the pet is likely in pain, and any pet in pain is a bite risk.
16. Use plastic baggies to collect a vomit or f***l sample. This may be necessary if the pet has been poisoned and you are unsure what the pet ingested. The baggies can store smaller items when not in use for easy accessibility.
17. Rubber gloves protect you from zoonotic diseases and collect vomit or f***l samples.
18. SAM splints. These are good for any injury you want to keep immobile. They are also moldable and easy to cut to size.
19. Sanitary napkins will absorb blood.
20. Sq**rt bottle to deliver hydrogen peroxide down a dog's throat.
21. Styptic powder for use on nails only since it can sting when it touches a wound. In addition, styptic powder is not sterile, and you may introduce bacteria into the wound.
22. Tea bags containing tannic acid are effective in stopping bleeding. While sugar is effective, I do not recommend it because the pet may be pre-diabetic or diabetic.
23. Vet wrap is lovely. It keeps the wound secure and dry. However, it is also expensive. The human counterpart is the exact same thing and is a fraction of the cost. Vet wrap must be removed daily, as it self-tightens and cuts off the blood supply.
24. Wound cleanser. You have several options. The first is sterile saline solution, also known as eyewash. The second is a Chlorohexidine-based cleanser, which is easy to find. My personal choice is Vetericyn products. Do not use hydrogen peroxide, as it degrades surrounding tissue, and cats cannot metabolize it. Do not use alcohol, as it stings. Do not use sterile, tap, or bottled water, as it disrupts the salt balance of the cells and slows healing.
Many of these items have expiration dates. Update pet first aid kits annually. If you still want to use a pre-packaged pet first aid kit, open it before you need it and add what is missing.
Treating injuries quickly results in faster healing with less pain. It may also reduce veterinary costs, which is a win-win for everyone involved.
