Force-Free Training with Candice

20/08/2024

SMALL DOG, BIG SCARY WORLD

People often think of very small dogs as being anxious and reactive and to be honest, quite a few are. It’s easy for people to ‘blame the owners’ or say that they have ‘little dog syndrome’ or even that they are ‘bossy’ 🙄 Really though, we need to be understanding of what life is like for really tiny dogs.

Tiny dogs often don’t have much control over their lives- they can be picked up easily (even if they don’t want to be) and they can be made to do stuff as they are small. People notice if a 40kg dog is worried about going into a busy park or a cafe and plants their feet and refuses to move but with a tiny dog, you can just make them do it even if they don’t want as you can pull them or pick them up ☹️

Tiny dogs often get overwhelmed before they’ve even got through puppyhood and many are fearful by the time they are 4 or 5 months old 😢 Big dogs may run up and knock them over, even in play bigger dogs can be overwhelming if you are 50 x smaller. Lots of hands reach down to touch them and yes, there it is again, strangers may also pick them up (whether they like it or not). Physically they may be delicate (my yorkie’s legs are made from matchsticks 😂) and may be hurt accidentally during normal dog interactions.

Everything is big and potentially dangerous when you weigh a couple of Kg and are about 8 inches tall. The world can be a scary and overwhelming place.

It’s easy to see then why so many littlies end up worried by the world and particularly by other dogs.

Tiny dog’s signals that they need space are also ignored often; people take notice of a GSD showing it’s teeth or growling and give them space but many people would laugh or totally ignore a tiny dog’s identical communication asking for space. How many ‘funny’ videos are out there that show tiny chihuahuas showing all their teeth and people are laughing at them? 😢 It’s not rocket science that they may then escalate to actually biting if their warnings are ignored - and they get called ‘snappy little dogs’ and again, misunderstood 😢

Small dogs can often miss out on having their species-specific needs met: their need for exploratory behaviour, for social contact; their needs for enrichment and physical exercise too and this impacts on them and their ability to cope. They are still proper dogs with the same needs.

I’ve been really lucky with my handreared yorkie, she’s fabulous with people and absolutely loves dogs but it’s been a bit of a mission to make sure things have gone right. It’s taken time to get her comfortable around bigger dogs on walks and I haven’t socialised her in the same way I have my other dogs as she could easily have become fearful (and then reactive).

When she was a puppy I did let her meet loads of dogs but I was been really careful and it was almost all onlead and with dogs I know and who I knew would be nice to her. Even now she’s an adult I continue to make sure she meets nice dogs and we frequent loads of national trust places as she can meet lots of sociable dogs there who are all under control. The last thing I wanted was for her to be really scared by another dog or physically hurt (she has deformed back legs that put her at huge risk of injury). She goes to offlead places too, but generally with one of my big dogs there too (she has big body guards) 😄

I’ve had to make adjustments to life to keep her safe and make sure she has a happy life and that she doesn’t become reactive. It’s been worth it as she has stayed so sociable (but as an adult she loves small dogs best). If I’d just walked her where I walked my big dogs all the time I would think that by now she would have been flattened or overwhelmed and may have become dog reactive. It’s totally understandable why so many tiny dogs are fearful.

My tiny dog also wouldn’t have had enough repeated, safe and positive controlled interactions with friendly dogs right throughout adolescence if I hadn’t carried on with all the cafe/pub/NT visits and that would have been detrimental. It’s not enough to just do this stuff when they are tiny puppies and then stop at 14 weeks old as adolescence is when if can often all start to go wrong. (It’s also a good justification for my many pub and cafe visits with Twig 😂)

We can’t forget the impact of genetics too and that’s a factor in why many small dogs are reactive; some genes for small body size are linked to fearfulness and reactivity and there may also be epigenetic factors too.

We can all be a bit more understanding too with small dogs and their owners. Don’t berate them for picking their dogs up if that’s what makes their dog feel safe- it won’t be what’s caused their anxiety and it might be what they need to feel safe right now. Don’t let your dogs overwhelm them (even in a friendly way). You’d also think it’s common sense to not pick strangers small dogs up without asking but people try to do it all the time 🙄

We have lots of anxious tiny dogs who absolutely thrive in our reactivity classes, we can keep them safe and make sure they aren’t overwhelmed and also help them to feel more confident around other dogs again.

Laura McAuliffe 2024
Photo shows my yorkie meeting two other small dogs in a cafe

19/08/2024

17/08/2024

Don't wait for the bark.💥
I cannot stress this enough when working with reactive dogs.
Unfortunately too many people only react to their own dogs reactivity when there is a bark.
A bark is just an audible sign of a reaction but there are many other signs given before that bark and when we don't recognise those signs, guess what happens ?
Barking, Lunges, Spins, Jumps and a dog unable to control their own emotions.
There is a LOT that is shown before the bark, even if it is very fast, it is still shown.
So why is it so important to know the unique signals and changes in posture and body language your dog shows ?
So you can STOP the escalation....and yes, even stop the barking from occurring in the first place.
Barking is often at the END of a longer chain of events.
First is usually (not always) a hard stare, a fixation.
THAT is a reaction.
It is not audible but it is often the first sign your dog has changed their emotional state, they ARE reacting.

A change in ear position IS a reaction.
Puling harder on the lead IS a reaction.
A lengthening of the neck/leaning in IS a reaction.
A wrinkled face IS a reaction.......use that information!

Remember a reaction is a change in their emotional state.....and those non verbal signs are a reaction.

A bark is just a reaction we recognise more.

Imagine how we can help our dogs with their reactivity if we started to recognise all those other changes and escalations in their emotional states as easily as we recognise a bark.....

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17/08/2024

PUPPIES 🐶

Puppies bite, they chew stuff, they can keep you awake at night and take time to learn a sleep routine, they p*e and poo and sometimes do it inside. It can take time to house train, some more than others.
They can easily get confused about our expectations, they can get frustrated when learning about life and get shouty and bitey, they get tired and bitey and don't want to sleep.

They go through different development stages as they grow having constant new and different experiences, sometimes they deal with these changes sometimes they don't. They make mistakes, they get overaroused, the arousal makes them behave in certain ways like, barking, grabbing, lunging.
They just act on their impulses and they need us to guide them. We need to be kind, understanding and tolerant.

They're beautiful little beings, learning every day, having new experiences every day. Humans brought them into the world, humans give them a home. We have a responsibility to guide and support them through their development with kindness and compassion.
Puppies are hard work but I love the experience, the good and the bad. They are all individually beautifully unique.

We NEED to meet their NEEDS.

They are never with us long enough, before you know it you'll be walking out of the vets with nothing but a collar, lead, a broken heart and loads of memories ...

Enjoy your puppy, embrace the journey, make beautiful memories, even if they're dicks sometimes 🐾❤️

Jane Ardern BSc (Hons) Dip Cabt
Kennel Club Accredited Instructor in Working Gundogs
The Gundog Club Accredited Instructor and Assessor
Member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers 1058

17/08/2024

“Understanding and promoting play in cats ensures their happiness, overall health, and well-being. Play nurtures the human-animal bond and allows cats to express their innate behaviors in a safe, stimulating environment. It is never too late to introduce play into a cat's routine, and even older cats can benefit from regularly scheduled playtime.”

All cats, no matter their age, benefit from consistent interactive play sessions with their caregivers.

16/08/2024

Edited to add additional information as requested!

Maximize your ability to help animals by understanding the science behind behavior. If you'd like to learn more about the research behind behavior change, please join my mailing list:
http://eepurl.com/hY-7hr or listen to my podcast: https://researchbites.buzzsprout.com

My Science of Fear course covers the limitations of counter-conditioning in more detail: https://sciencemattersllc.com/science-of-fear

And for more information on stress and resilience, check out my Unlocking Resilience course: https://sciencemattersllc.com/unlocking-resilience

Here are some citations for the research:
Keller, N. E., Hennings, A. C., & Dunsmoor, J. E. (2020). Behavioral and neural processes in counterconditioning: Past and future directions. Behaviour Research and Therapy, 125, 103532. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0005796719302189

Bouton, M. E. (1988). Context and ambiguity in the extinction of emotional learning: Implications for exposure therapy. Behaviour research and therapy, 26(2), 137-149. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/0005796788901131

Thomas, B. L., Cutler, M., & Novak, C. (2012). A modified counterconditioning procedure prevents the renewal of conditioned fear in rats. Learning and Motivation, 43(1-2), 24-34. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0023969012000021

15/08/2024

Leash and Learn has some great graphics!

15/08/2024

So you’re at an outing, standing next to your spouse or friend. Someone approaches you with a tray filled with hors d’oeuvres, and offers one to you. You look at the tray, but then say “no, thank you.” The waiter moves away.

Now, imagine if after saying “no, thank you” the waiter didn’t go away. Imagine if the waiter continued to push you to take one, and even your spouse started saying “come on, take one!” So you uncomfortably took and ate one, even though it wasn’t what you wanted. You’d probably be pretty aggravated with your spouse too. But you think it’s a one off and you carry on with the evening.

A few minutes later another waiter approaches with another tray, and the same thing happens. This time you feel yourself get more upset, especially after saying “no” multiple times. But your spouse insists also, even going so far as to take the snack off the tray and try to put it in your mouth. By the end of the interaction, you’re really on edge.

The third or fourth time you see a waiter approach you, you’re feeling either stressed, angry, or both. The waiter hasn’t even gotten all the way over to you yet and you’re ready to yell “no!” You look around for a place to escape to but your spouse/friend has their arm around you and you can’t back away. You end up physically snatching the tray from the waiter and throwing it on the ground, yelling obscenities and getting as quickly out of the room as possible. The guests look at you while your spouse simply says “I don’t know why she’s being so aggressive! They were just wanted to give her a snack!” I’m guessing you would be pretty angry at your spouse/friend by this point too. They aren’t helping support you at all. You can’t trust them OR the waiter.

You see where I’m going with this don’t you?
Try to imagine if your “no thank yous” were ignored. How many times would it take being ignored for you to get angry, get physical, or try to escape, or worse, just shut down completely. Everyone would handle it differently, but we’d all hate it.

Dogs deal with this EVERY DAY. They say “no, thank you” all the time. And we often times are guilty of ignoring that request and trying to convince them otherwise, sometimes even going so far as to force them through something because WE don’t understand. And then we wonder why dogs reach a point of aggressing or avoiding. Whether we are the waiter; trying to push something onto the dog like an interaction, or the spouse/friend not supporting the dog and backing up their request of “no, thank you” we are doing serious harm to the dogs confidence and even more harm to our relationship with them.

Your dog can only use his body language to tell you what he wants, so pay attention. If your dog says no thank you, listen. If they don’t want a stranger to touch them, support them. If they don’t want to meet a strange dog, let it go. If they want to take their time trying something different, let them take their time. I can tell you the more choice they feel they have the more likely they are to actually decide to try when they are ready. Just like you may finally get hungry enough to want a snack from the tray, but on your terms, and one that you get to pick.

Choice and consent matters in ALL species. Respect your dogs “no, thank you” and you’ll get a lot of respect back.

- Helen St. Pierre, No Monkey Business Dog Training. Please if you share give credit.

14/08/2024

Soooo the AVSAB just released a new position statement on humane dog training and it is MUSIC TO OUR EARS.

I’ve been training professionally now for 20 years. And I’ve encountered all kinds of methods, techniques, beliefs, tools and more. I have witnessed treatment of dogs in the name of “training” that has kept me up at night and I have forever remained faithful that with patience, humor and reward based training, there’s nothing you and your dog can’t achieve if you put the work in.

This position statement directly aligns with the mission of NMBDT and our dedication to humane training of our own dogs, and YOUR dogs. Focusing more on the relationship and less on the immediate result, for true behavior change on both ends of the leash. We stay up to date with continuing education and commit ourselves to being the best we possibly can be, even if that means changing what we used to do because we’ve learned a better way. Dogs don’t have a choice, WE do.

There is currently no standardization in this field, yet, but statements like this shared broadly help continue to break down the old school idea that force, pain, fear and compulsive methods are suitable to increase or reduce behavior in ANY animal.

“Conclusion
Based on current scientific evidence, AVSAB recommends that only re- ward-based training methods are used for all dog training, including the treatment of behavior problems. Aversive training methods have a damaging effect on both animal welfare and the human-animal bond. There is no evidence that aver-sive methods are more effective than reward-based methods in any context. AVSAB therefore advises that aversive methods should not be used in animal training or for the treatment of behavior problems”

Read the whole article here -

https://avsab.ftlbcdn.net/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/AVSAB-Humane-Dog-Training-Position-Statement-2021.pdf?fbclid=IwAR0cPhkDe4JTZ6BBD45rtlWqsvdIAc31DuM-sgx5WSij-0oKcoz-qdEKbD0

14/08/2024

Inspired by a recent conversation on Instagram, I want to reiterate a few things that are super important:

- behaviour change (emotional change!) is often a slow progress.
- it's normal to feel frustrated with your xyz [reactive, aggressive, anxious, excitable] dog, but don't let that let you lose sight of the progress you *are* making.
- if you're not making any progress or it is way too slow, time to reach out to a pro! I'm always happy to help or refer out to someone who can, so feel free to slide into my DMs if you're struggling.
- when hiring a pro, remember to ask: *how* they train, *why* they train that way, *what* (if any) the potential risks are of their methods, and *if* they have any education or certifications (CTC, KPA-CTP, CDBC, CPDT-KA, etc.)

Training is and should be fun... for you AND your dog!

12/08/2024

Less than three minutes, worth a watch!

What happens when you pay two monkeys unequally? Watch what happens. An excerpt from the TED Talk: "Frans de Waal: Moral behavior in animals." Watch the whol...

11/08/2024

There are many steps in looking at changing a dog's behaviour, and one of these is by training a mutually-exclusive behaviour. This means training a preferred behaviour that the dog can do (instead of the current behaviour that we may be struggling with). 👍

It is important that the new behaviour we 'choose' is something that is 'mutually- exclusive' so cannot be done at the same time as the behaviour we want to change. For example, if your dog is barking and we teach them a sit, these behaviours are not mutually-exclusive as the dog can still bark whilst they are sitting, so we aren't changing the behaviour we want. However, if we teach a dog to sit instead of jumping up, then they can't jump and sit at the same time, so we have changed the behaviour.

Some other examples of mutually exclusive behaviours are:
🔸 Carrying a toy in their mouth instead of eating things on walks.
🔸 Laying in their bed instead of harassing people at dinner.
🔸 All four paws on the floor instead of up on the kitchen surfaces.
🔸 Walking next to you instead of pulling ahead.

If you already know what you would like your dog to do, such as greet people by sitting instead of jumping-up, the ideal scenario would be to train the behaviour you want them to do in that situation beforehand so they never pick up the habit you don't want. However, we can, and do, use mutually-exclusive behaviour to change current patterns of behaviour, but there will be more steps to it (such as making sure the new behaviour is more rewarding than the previous behaviour). So, if you are having a problem with a particular behaviour, have a think about what mutually-exclusive behaviour you would prefer they be doing instead, and train that as a replacement!

11/08/2024

How do you know when your dog is ready for more of a challenge? Review how they’ve done over the previous 3-5 reps, and adjust accordingly.

08/08/2024

It’s been really hot. It’s been a long weekend. I have more calls to make and emails etc. But, Aslan doesn’t care about that. He needs to swim and run so he can relax tonight. So, off to the river we go.

I got a Belgian knowing the work that lay ahead. The daily exercise, training and mental stimulation the dog would require. I waited until the kids were older and I had more time. Even knowing all this, there are still days where I look at him and go “dear God what have I done?” He has more energy than the other 8 dogs combined. He has drive, courage, and endless thirst for more. He makes Joker feel like an easy dog. He is everything I wanted and more. But that’s what I signed up for. I cannot imagine him in a home with someone inexperienced…. He would run them over.

I cannot stress enough to people to research and research and research some more about a breed they are interested in before committing to them. Or work with shelters and rescues who properly get to know their mixed breed dogs before placing them so you know what you are getting before you bring them home.

This is right around the time in many dogs lives that people realize “this is too much for me” and the dog ends up back at the breeder or worse. Breed rescues are PACKED with dogs that well meaning people brought home and then quickly realized were the wrong fit. And the dog suffers for it.

One of the biggest issues is that we are led by our aesthetic and our heart when it comes to dogs, instead of our head. The rational side of us tends to shut down when we see a pair of brown eyes looking at us. We love a “look” of a dog but we forget that that wears off eventually and the work will remain. For years.

I know to the many people here reading, this doesn’t apply. But if I had one wish in my career for the next 10 years it would be that people properly research and understand not just the breed(s) they are getting, but the commitment, work, and compromise having a dog requires.

Now, off to throw the ball again.

07/08/2024

💕

Learn your dog’s silent language so you can understand what he is trying to communicate.

Be open to listening. Let go of human expectations.

Gently, without coercion, try to teach skills (not obedience training) to help your dog navigate the human world.

Try to remain flexible although some things might not make sense from the human perspective. Trust the dog's perspective is valid and very real to that individual dog.

You will make mistakes along the way, get frustrated, and lose your cool at times, but you will learn so much from your dog’s point of view and, in turn, learn about yourself as well.

07/08/2024

If you’re having litter box trouble with your cat, reach out to me and I can help! But toilet training is not the answer.

It sounds like a glorious fix - no more scraping litter boxes, no more litter tracked through the house, no more hefting heavy stinky trash bags. But cats will always be happiest when we set up their lives in the most natural way, and modern plumbing just isn't it.

With some cats, it can be as simple as one slip of the foot getting them wet, with others, one attempt at the room when it's in use and the door is closed, before the cat no longer wants to even attempt this new fangled method and goes back to p*eing in house plants or on your floors.

It's best to set them up for easy success with one more box than you have cats, boxes that are twice as long as the longest cat, and litter three inches deep or more, and of course regular cleaning with unscented clumping litter in a quiet place of the house away from appliances and other random scares.

06/08/2024

best tip I can give you if you want a reliable recall with your dog?

Stop giving him reasons to not want to come back to you.

So often we call our dogs and do the following -

- bring them inside
- crate them
- put them back on leash
- physically pet them and hug them (a lot of dogs reaallllly don't like this even though WE do!)
- take something from them
- check them for ticks
- wipe their eye boogers
- remove them from the fun

If you've done one or any of these, you've taken a huge deduction out of your dogs "recall account" balance. YES, EVEN IF YOU USED FOOD WHEN THEY CAME BACK!

There are many other factors to help you have a reliable recall with your dog, but this is the most important one of them all. STOP calling your dog and then doing something they don't find reinforcing, even if you treat them anyway. Often times, the food very quickly becomes not worth it to your dog, and you find yourself at 5am on your porch in your bathrobe screaming "COME!" rattling a bag of treats just to up the ante more and more, only to have your dog look at you like "Yeah, no, I've been there before human, see ya!"

If you have to leave the park, go get them, if you need to take the stick, go get it, and if that means your dog drags a leash or a long line that's FINE for now. But take some time to stop calling your dog and taking deduction after deduction. Trust me, it WILL PAY OFF!!

06/08/2024

This!!!!!
With thanks to Gemma Hodson at https://www.facebook.com/allaboutthedogtherapy/

06/08/2024

Such a common issue ❗
I know many people really struggle with this and the most important step to stop or limit this is sometimes not taken.
For aesthetic reasons or for financial reasons or both (which I absolutely understand) the crucial step of stopping this behaviour being repeated and rehearsed over and over is not taken.
For aesthetic reasons...
I get it, you have worked hard and have a beautiful home and fence but now your dog is launching themselves at that beautiful fence and at every dog, person or car that passes.
It may now be a "game" that they wait for hours and hours to play.

That "game" is causing huge stress in your dog.

Asking someone to block that view through that fence or to create a temporary fence further back is often met with resistance.
Some people may struggle financially with a cheap option to block that view.
Try w**d mat or thick opaque shade cloth to temporary staple to the fence, its a very reasonable price and comes in long lengths. Or look around the home for an old tarpaulin, there are very cheap or free options.

If you have a dog that sits on the deck and then launches into this "game" from there, change the area.
That "launch pad" WILL be used over and over if left.

This won't just stop.

Another reason people are hesitant to stop this is they see their dog enjoys this "game". They see the pacing while waiting, the anticipation and that is part of the issue. Reactivity can be highly stressful for dogs.
They are stuck in a loop and need help to stop.

Limiting opportunity is always a first step and from there you can put in other ways to help....but for some dogs, limiting the vision (and/or access to the fence line) will stop the behaviour immediately.

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05/08/2024

Does your puppy…

Bite things, including you?
Chew things, including your stuff?
Jump up, even on you?
Potty frequently, sometimes indoors?

Or maybe they bark, or dig, or run around with the zoomies?

Congratulations, you have a normal puppy!

All your pup knows is how to do puppy things and wow, are they excellent at it! It’s up to us to kindly teach them how to thrive in this human world we’re asking them to share with us, including how and when to do those dog-natural behaviors in a safe and appropriate manner.

Yes, your biting/chewing/jumping puppy is normal, but that doesn’t mean easy! It’s okay to feel frustrated, to feel overwhelmed, to need a break - and it’s okay to want some help! Whether it’s puppy biting, chewing, housetraining, handling / grooming, preparing for vet visits, or any other concerns with your puppy - let’s work together.

If you’re not sure where to start or the things you’ve been trying don’t seem to be working, contact me - I can help you and your pup find joy together. 💕

03/08/2024

Is it true that if we use cold water on heat stroke pets they will go into shock?

One of the most common things we still hear is that we can only use tepid water on a pet with heat stroke, incase they get some complications like hypothermic overshoot, peripheral vasoconstriction hindering a cooling response, and cardiogenic shock...

We have heard not to use cold water in case it causes shock... this rarely happens!

But guess what? In a recent study over 26% of dogs presented with heat stroke died, with flat faced breeds making up nearly half of heat stroke cases seen in the study.

You should:

💧Get someone to call the local veterinary practice and tell them you're going to travel down with a heat stroke patient
💧Pour, hose or if possible immerse the pet in very cold water (this should obviously be done under constant supervision, ensuring the head is fully above water and immersion should not be attempted if the animal is too large, or you are unable to do so without hurting yourself)
💧NB: If using a hose pipe, make sure it has run through until cold, as they can often contain water that is extremely hot in the tubing initially
💧Do not drape in towels and leave them in situ. Keep the cold water flowing.
💧Move to a cool, shaded area
💧Prepare to transport to vets in a cold, air conditioned car

In studies they found that:

🌅International consensus from sports medicine organisations supports treating EHS with early rapid cooling by immersing the casualty in cold water.
🌅Ice-water immersion has been shown to be highly effective in exertional heat stroke, with a zero fatality rate in large case series of younger, fit patients.
🌅Hyperthermic individuals were cooled twice as fast by Cold Water Immersion as by passive recovery.
🌅No complications occurred during the treatment of three older patients with severe heat stroke were treated with cold‐water immersion.
🌅Cold water immersion (CWI) is the preferred cooling modality in EHS guidelines and the optimal method applicable to UK Service Personnel
🌅Studies suggest using either ice-water or cold-water immersion

The best intervention is PREVENTION, but if you find yourself with an animal with heat stroke, using cold water either by pouring, hosing or ideally (if safe) immersion then this may help reduce their temperature to safe levels while you transport to a veterinary practice.

Read more below:

https://www.vetvoices.co.uk/post/cool-icy-cold-or-tepid