21/11/2022
FAQ
What does your cage setup look like?
Permanent housing for all rats is a variety of Critter Nation configurations. Prevue 528 cages are currently used for pairing. 106 quart bin cages are used for birthing and nursing until the babies are strong and active.
Setups are made to be as active as possible while still safe, and are kept very cluttered. Pairing, maternity, and nursing cages are kept quite bare for the safety of the rats. I like to use a combination of branches, wicker tunnels, ropes, wooden hides, space pods, and hammocks along with some foraging/destruction toys. I am also aiming to give every rat the opportunity to use a 16 inch wheel.
What bedding and food do you use?
Mainly pine and aspen bedding, depending on any sensitivities. My single Harley girl does much better on Aspen. Food for breeding does is Mazuri lab blocks, with nursing does and babies getting a combination of lab blocks, eggs, chicken with bones, fish dog food, avocado, high quality wet dog food, and a foraging mix. Adult bucks are on a lower protein mix, but Adult Oxbow or Science Selective is recommended for adopters.
How often do you handle babies before adopting them out?
Babies are handled for health checks, weigh ins, and photos before being separated at 5 weeks. There is also minimal interaction when feeding and handling moms. There is no "bonding time" or free roam prior to temperament testing at 5 weeks, and the minimal handling is done primarily by a single person.
What is your process for testing temperament?
"Formal" temperament testing includes open/bare free roam, picking up while asleep, introduction to a trusted adult, scruffing, syringe feeding, reaction to loud noises, reaction to crinkle tunnel, being messed with while eating, treat taking (both liquid from finger and dry), being picked up unexpectedly, and being handled by unknown people. These are done both in and out of the cage. We hope to also expose them to the smell of cats around 6-8 weeks to gauge their reactions, as this line does seem to have an instinctual fear of the smell. The breeding rats we acquired were born in a home with cats, and have no reaction to the scent even months to a year later.
Informal temperament testing is basically just watching the rats interact from a distance. This includes their reaction to new things in the cage, the way they react during photos (level of relaxation, want to explore, etc), who runs to the front of the cage when I come with food, willingness to try new foods, ability to problem solve cage layout, interactions with cagemates, etc.
Our goal with both types of testing is to adopt out rats that have the type of personalities adopters are looking for. They should be curious and inquisitive, trusting, and easy to handle. I'm also looking for preferred types of enrichment, any bonding with littermates, and overall schedule to make sure they will be the best possible fit in their new home.
What should I do if my rats end up biting me or being aggressive toward each other?
Any aggression or worrying behavior should be brought to my attention immediately. Our rats should never bite another rat or person, though they do tend to enjoy grooming fingers/nails which can be alarming at first. If any aggression does happen (has not been an issue with these lines for many generations), we will work together to find the best solution for you and the rats.
What is your stance on culling rats who cannot be adopted out? ( culling due to health, safety and/or aesthetic reasons. )
Culling is necessary to put into the world the happiest animals possible. Luckily, the standard line we have taken over was founded by pet rats bred mainly to produce ethical feeders, and as such any temperament and health issues had a zero tolerance policy. This resulted in these issues being worked out of the line fairly quickly. If any of these issues come up in the future, the animals will be hard or soft culled depending on the circumstances.
We will not hard cull for aesthetic reasons, but aesthetics and body composition are a factor when choosing holdbacks.
Do you have any guidelines in place if something comes up and I can no longer keep the rats?
We will happily work with you to find them a new home! If there are health/temperament issues we will also work with you to figure out the best outcome. Hopefully in the future, we will be able to set up a quarantine area in a separate airspace that will allow us to take back rats in emergency rehome situations.
Can you recommend any exotic vets in the area that work with rats?
I have worked the most with Berkley Animal Clinic, but Parkway Animal Hospital in Clinton Township and Ark in Utica also come highly recommended. General prices in our area tend to be a little under $100 for exams and meds, $400 for surgeries, and between $50-150 for diagnostics like urinalysis and x-rays.
Do you have a contract you wish adopters to sign?
Yes, it's simple and states that the rats are pet only (not breeding stock) and if they need to be rehomed adopters are to contact us.
Can you tell me about the health/temperament history of this line?
Healthwise, the rats have been fantastic with no real URIs (new home sneezes do happen and should still be expected) or tumors as far as we know. There was some maternal and genetic aggression at the start of the line, but the aggressive rats were culled immediately. Hormonal aggression is a remote possibility with all male rats regardless of lines, but should be unlikely in our rats. Overall longevity cannot be guaranteed, but we just said goodbye to a retired buck from these lines who was a couple weeks shy of 3 years old.
Do you offer delivery?
I can meet within a reasonable distance, and as we are a closed rattery this is preferred. Adoptees must bring their own carrier.
Do you offer a rat sitting service for a fee?
For the safety of our animals and yours, we are a closed rattery and do not allow any other rats or rodent owners into our home.
Will you adopt out single rats?
No. Rats should always be homed in pairs at minimum. For young rats, same age company is critical for their social development. Adjusting to a new place and new rats is also stressful, and it's much easier for rats to adjust when they have a friend with them. New rats should also be quarantined in your home for at least two weeks, which would mean an older rat/retired breeder homed without a buddy would need to be alone for that time. For these reasons, even adult rats will not be adopted out alone.
