Business page for Nina Selfe, a final year student of Equine Podiatry.
(2)
Excellent, informative post from Lindsey.
I'm constantly watching out for each and every one of these signs, each one is a little red flag...
There are more signs too, like raised pulses, a warm hoof capsule, a camped out stance, an excessive heel 1st landing or a horse being reluctant to go forward (often mistaken for being lazy).
Being vigilant and acting quickly will give you the best chance of avoiding laminitis.
Back in the 'office' Tuesday 27th Aug, I'll always do my best to reply to messages but bare with me if I'm a little slower getting back to you.
It's notoriously difficult to get a flattering picture of an EP at work, from one direction it's a picture of your backside, and the other a hot sweaty face.
😅
Your flat footed horse is going to feel the stones more than a horse with some concavity. With feet like these I like to leave the tiniest bit of wall height above sole to help with comfort, it is also thought this can help concavity to develop. While I don't currently offer a boot fitting service, I can take measurements along with photos and seek advice from Urban Horse where all my clients can get a 10% discount.
Urban Horse
The last few days have been hot!
I can manage providing I have shade (did 5 horses today in 31 degrees) but will be taking it a bit slower or having the occasional break to glug down water, so please bare with me if I'm running a bit behind schedule.
If there isn't any shade then please understand I'm likely to reschedule.
Neat little donkey feet!
Donkeys have a different foot anatomy to horses and so require a slightly different trim.
They aren't easy to keep healthy in the UK, prone to laminitis and foot wise, prone to white line disease. Their feet are boxy and more upright, and have a tendency to become broken forward (HPA). The frog takes up the whole of the back of the foot and their soles don't exfoliate like horse's do.
Character wise, they are often called stubborn, but actually they just have a great sense of self preservation, and if they detect a threat, they will freeze rather than take flight, like a horse.
Their coats aren't waterproof either, so they need shelter from the rain.
I find them fascinating.
Thinking of everyone remembering Jayne Hunt today. I talk about her often to clients who knew her, sharing funny things she would say or just her knowledge and wisdom.
She is often in my mind when I'm making trimming decisions, little tips, advice or "it'll be fine" if I'm ever not sure about something.
Jayne once told me, when she's trimming frogs, it reminds her of carving her roast dinner.
Now every time I have a roast, I think of frogs! 🤣
I know she is greatly missed still by clients, colleagues and friends.
🌷
Study day, looking at my bones!!
It's taken me a couple of years to process these, it's actually quite exciting to take a look at them finally.
I'll have them with me in my car, for any clients who want to take a look too.
Very interesting article from Tom Beech.
And I think a pH metre and potato ricer are the next items to add to my kit bag!
*** WORM EGG COUNTS DO NOT DETECT TAPEWORM LEVELS OR ENCYSTED REDWORM BURDENS ***
I STILL get people commenting on my worming posts that they “do worm egg counts, so don’t need to worm”! NO!!!!!!!
Worm egg counts and targeted worming is brilliant, BUT only if you also use blood tests for both tapeworm (twice a year) and encysted redworm (once a year).
I still also hear of yards that don’t worm at all if the worm egg counts are negative. You are going to have dead horses if this is your method of worming, as WORM EGG COUNTS DO NOT DETECT TAPEWORM or ENCYSTED REDWORM!
Worm egg counts MUST be combined with blood tests for encysted redworm and tapeworm; if all 3 are negative, then no need to worm at all.
Please don’t offer advice on my posts, especially when it’s incorrect!
EDIT: the saliva test for tapeworm twice yearly, is fine, but blood tests are currently the only way to check for encysted redworm burdens. I won’t be offering any further worming advice on this post, as it’s simply to highlight a very important point. I put a lot of effort into sharing information about worming, so most questions being asked have been covered in my many previous worming posts, and I’m sure will be covered again. It seems an area that people really do struggle to understand!
Continuing from the previous post, this is the laminitis trim I did which instantly made Hugo much more comfortable. Focus is on bringing the break over back while reducing heel height, which I'll continue with until the laminar wedge grows out.
I'm on holiday till 16th April, feel free to send me messages still but I may take longer to reply. Thanks!
On behalf of a client, size 2 Scoots for sale, with gaiters and shims. Originally purchased new and used a handful of times, but due to a strong twisting action, the boots didn't work for this particular horse.
Purchase price £183, client looking for £150.
I have them with me in my boot, if anybody wants to try them for size during a visit.
Absolutely this 👇
When dealing with laminitis, the priority above all else is manage the root cause.
No amount of trimming, supplements etc will help until the root cause is under control.
Humble Hoof podcasts are well worth a listen to.
All right, y’all, I’m going to vent a bit.
I’ve seen plenty of posts on social media of lame horses and owners asking for help with rehab. Unfortunately, hoof issues are a bit of a pandemic, but fortunately - through attention and research- we are learning so much more about the foot and ways to keep it healthy and give it a fighting chance at soundness.
So this morning, when I scrolled across some radiographs of a laminitic horse- where the before and after didn’t seem much better to me- I stopped to read the post.
The horse had been sore for quite some time and nothing seemed to help, so they tried bigger and bigger interventions to the feet, until finally they found an extensive shoeing package that allowed the horse to amble around a bit more comfortably.
My first thought was- wow, that seems really extreme, but I’m glad they found something to make the horse a bit more comfy.
My second thought was- I wonder why this horse needed such extreme measures to improve.
That question was answered pretty quickly when I saw an image of said horse out in a large green pasture of fresh grass.
Up to 90% of laminitis is endocrinopathic. Meaning up to 90% of laminitic cases should not be on grass. Meaning up to 90% of laminitic horses will continue to founder and their laminae will continue to fail until their diet and metabolic issues are addressed.
And we can do all we want to their feet- and some things may help, and some won’t, and some may work for a time until the horse can’t compensate anymore- but ultimately NOTHING will stop the laminae breakdown until the root cause is addressed.
I see so many turn to bigger and bigger interventions, more drastic approaches, when the root cause isn’t even addressed. And don’t get me started on the fact that half of these posts I see are trying to sell a product for these horses.. without even addressing the cause of the issue. Let’s sell a bandaid to people desperately trying to save their horse.
I’m trying not to become too preachy over here, but to be honest just sitting here typing this I’m getting a bit worked up.
Because when we focus on the feet in isolation, we are missing the forest for the trees.
Hooves are attached to an animal and the hoof reveals the health of that animal -in laminitis cases especially.
Doing things to the feet may (at least temporarily) help with comfort, but it will not stop the internal damage until we remove the trigger for the laminitis.
And maybe, if we got to the trigger first and removed it right away, we wouldn’t even need those interventions at all.
Now I’m not naive to believe that every single laminitis case is this straightforward. In fact, I absolutely know they aren’t. There are some where a toxin leads to SIRS laminitis and those feet almost melt apart. Supporting limb laminitis can feel like a car crash you don’t know how to stop. And some metabolic cases can be so tightly managed and still have refractory high insulin.. or we increase pergolide just a few weeks too late for the seasonal rise and those horses just crash and then we are chasing ACTH levels.
There are some who need every single tool in the toolbox and some who we just can’t make comfortable.
But at the very least, we need to start with the basics. ECIR emergency diet. Looking for the root cause. Removing as many triggers as we can think of. AND work on getting the horse comfortable.
But don’t just look at the feet and forget the horse and their living situation.
/rant. (And apologies for the drama).
Had my 7th (out of 8) case study signed off this week. Donkeys have a completely different foot anatomy to horses and because of that need a 'non standard' trim approach.
They're also very prone to white line disease and hoof wall separation. They're actually quite hard to keep generally healthy in the UK as we just don't have the ideal climate for them, but this herd at Coppershell Animal Rescue are looking really well. 💗
One step closer to qualifying!
So the caption to accompany my previous post is... "Yay! I've found the boot". Which incidentally came flying off during a leisurely (ok, perhaps not so leisurely 😉) canter. Its been happening quite frequently and its SO annoying, but WHY?
To this day precisely, Marley has been 1year out of shoes, I thought I'd compare photos... his feet have changed so much, infact they've gone down a whole boot size!
So what's happening?
In a barefoot hoof, all the connective tissues get tighter. This results in the dorsal wall (front of the hoof) becoming more upright. Even a short time out of shoes will bring improvements to the angle of the dorsal wall. Toes should be short (and I trim them so) because long toes put a much greater strain on ligaments and tendons during break over.
Along with long toes, you usually get low heels. It might seem counterproductive but the Equine Podiatry approach is to trim the heels even lower which in turn brings them back. This then engages the frog which simulates the digital cushion and you slowly build up the back of the foot by developing internal structures.
If you simply allow the heels to grow, in an attempt to gain heel height, the heels will most likely run forward and collapse under - known as under-run heels. Or, if the hoof horn is strong, they may not collapse but grow higher and higher but the frog will lose engagement with the ground and then the internal structures won't get the stimulation they need. The heels will start contracting, encouraging central sulcus infections.
Marleys feet are a totally different shape now (pictured is his LF) it's more round as the heels are less under-run (they still need to come back a bit) they've also expanded as the frog is stronger. And see how much the toe has come back!! The whole hoof capsule is tighter and more upright.
So if your horse is coming out of shoes, do be prepared to buy a second set of boots at some point (around 10 months for us) because their hooves will change immensely, but it's all for the better. 😊
Caption this photo....
The difference one trim can make is really satisfying.
Brief back history from the owner was that he's always had wonky feet and that he trips and stumbles frequently, to the point of sometimes falling over.
He walked away looking so much better in his movement.
The other improvements I hope to see in coming months is in their general shape. The front feet could be mistaken for hind feet as they look oval and should be more round. I'll be working on developing those frogs to expand the heels, which at the minute are a little contracted, causing central sulcus infections.
The hinds are going to improve in their shape too, in the pre trim photos their 'clover shape' is quite obvious, I'm looking forward to them becoming more even in their shape and bruising on the hoof walls, I'm pretty sure it's going to disappear.
Who knew hoof care could be so exciting!
That was a muddy day in the office!
Wondering if I can claim a new washing machine as allowable expenses as I'm no doubt going to need one soon...
Roll on Spring 😆
1st day back at work and very happy about it too!
Wishing all my clients a Happy New Year!!
2023 has been a real rollercoaster for me, an exciting one with my business growing very rapidly, but also one tinged with saddness with losing my inspirational mentor, Jayne Hunt, so tradgically.
My hopes for 2024 are to pass my final exams and become fully qualified and to continue growing my business, doing the best job I can on every horse.
(I also hope that every client can provide me with a lovely, dry airy barn with beautiful views over the Wiltshire Countryside 😉)
I kick started my holidays today with a very blustery ride on Salisbury plane, certainly blew the cobwebs away!
So that's me, down tools until the 4th Jan and wishing all my fabulous clients, a very Merry Christmas!
May it be festive, merry and bright!🎄🎁🥂
M U D F E V E R - aka Greasy Heel, Scratches or Pastern Dermatitis.
Quite a few clients battling with this right now.
The bacteria that causes mud fever is Dermatophilus Congolensis, it an anaerobic bacteria that lives in the soil and often lives harmlessly on the surface of the skin. But when the protective surface of the skin is compromised, the bacteria can pe*****te and start to proliferate, secreting an oily substance which then forms a scab over the infection.
Left untreated, it can infect the whole leg, causing swelling, heat and pain.
E A R L Y T R E A T M E N T
- R E M O V E S C A B S (because the bacteria hides underneath)
Apply vaseline to soften the scabs, wrap in cling film then a bandage and if you can, leave over night (if stabled) or for as long as you can. On removing the bandage and cling film, the scabs should then wipe off, you can do this through the clling film. Wipe away residule vaseline.
- T R E A T I N F E C T I O N
Use a mild topical treatment, I love Leucillin which is a powerful antiseptic that doesn't sting. You can also use Red Horse Honey cream, Sudocreme, Udder Cream or Tea Tree Shampoo - but ensure to rinse and dry thoroughly after use. Basically, something mild, with antimicrobial properties, that doesn't sting.
Please don't use Hibiscrub, it's not intended for use on broken skin.
M A N A G E T O P R E V E N T R E I N F E C T I O N
-Mud fever can be a sign of a copper/zinc imbalance. Or iron overload which hinders the uptake of copper/zinc. So look for a good mineral balancer with adaquate levels of copper and zinc, whilst not too high in iron.
-The infection lives under the scabs, so keep gently removing them to expose to air.
-Avoid washing legs, let mud dry then brush off.
-Once healed, apply a barrier such as a mineral oil or protective boots.
(Photo credit; World Horse Welfare)
Couldn't agree more 👇
Friday focus….my obligatory post that I share every year about over rugging now the temperatures are starting to drop overnight!
Obesity is a huge welfare issue here in the U.K. and there are many contributing factors. Over feeding, lack of exercise and over rugging are considered to be the main causes. If you have a good doing or native type, then please, before you reach for your rugs, think whether they need them or not!
The colder autumn and winter months are fantastic for helping weight loss if you allow your horse or pony to use some of their energy to keep warm! I am not saying never use a rug and I am not saying that they should shiver their weight off either, that would be a welfare issue and that is definitely something I would never advocate.
I am however, saying that we generally over rug; we rug according to how cold we feel, not how they feel, and that a huge amount of our horses and ponies do not need the weight of rugs we put on them. I often see native types with 300g-400g rugs on and this is definitely not a needed for an animal that is very well equipped to deal with the worst of the U.K. weather!
Horses are really good at keeping warm without rugs, if they can escape from the elements and have enough forage to eat. The fermentation that occurs in the hind gut when they are eating forage, provides them with their very own central heating system! In addition, they can fluff up their coats better when they are not wearing a rug; this traps air inside the coat, trapping in heat. They are very well equipped to keep themselves warm! They are not however, as good at cooling themselves down. If they have plenty of forage to eat, they have shelter and can escape the elements, they can regulate their body temperatures very well on their own.
As part of weight loss programmes, I often recommend keeping rugs as light as possible in inclement weather and the response this gets from many others on the yards is astounding!!
Not rugging or lightly rugging an overweight, good doing or native type horse or pony is not cruel in any way shape or form! What is cruel is letting them stay overweight as this significantly compromises their overall health and well-being. Have you seen the harsh environments some of these types live in? Look at Shetlands and Highland ponies, their natural environments are extremely harsh and they survive perfectly well in them!
Then we take them, put them in nice cosy stables, rug them up, feed them huge bucket feeds and energy rich forages. This is why we have an obesity issue!! They are stood overly warm, not moving around much, with a plentiful supply of food, are turning them into couch potatoes!!
I am not saying rugs should never be used, but I am saying many do not need the weights of rugs we put on them. Many do perfectly well with just a rain sheet or lighter weight rug on. There are however many that do need to be rugged; finer skinned, the young, the elderly, those underweight, ill equines, those with muscular issues etc. They need to be kept warm, so they should be kept warm!
However, if you have a native or good doing type, you will make life much easier for you and your horse if you let them gradually lose their summer weight over the winter months. They will not lose weight if they are over rugged.
*Please read this post before commenting, I am not saying rugs are the root of all evil and that they should all be burned in some rug hating ritual!!! I am just saying that we should think about whether our horses really need rugs or if they need the weight of rugs we put on them!*
Good progress for this ex racer Thoroughbred, with tweaks to the diet including a good balancer and boots & pads all round along with regular gentle exercise, we are starting to see the heels become less underrun, we've lost the bull nose and the boney column alignment is looking much straighter. 🙂
I sent these pics to my client yesterday who kindly said 'Thanks, couldn't have done it without you'. To which I explained it's 💯% a JOINT effort between us as just as much is due to the management. The client, in my opinion, does the hard work!
Even the best trimmer in the world can't fix these problems without a good client on board. 😁
A rather nice foot I trimmed today 😊
The emergency diet for any equine having a laminitic attack...
https://www.ecirhorse.org/DDT%2bE-diet.php?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=diet_campaign&fbclid=IwAR2HxKZJYxjBwbjWyvg9xm-HK5laRG5lLBfJBdwwNEGws1d4jwGTLHunzs8
The ecirhorse.org website is complimentary to the Equine Cushing's and Insulin Resistance outreach group..
Pleased with the improvements I'm seeing here. It's taken some time, but we are going in the right direction.
Top pic is just after shoes were removed, see how the heels are under-run, making the wall bulge out infront of the heels. Compare to the lower pic, where the heels really don't look that under-run any more, if at all, the bulging has gone and the angle of the hairline is not so steep.
All those improvements tell me the structures in the back of the foot are developing nicely 😊
This gentle giant was over due a trim, but they looked a lot worse than they really were.
All the breakage in the 'before' photos was just breakage that I would have nippered off anyway, and they trimmed up pretty nicely.
I certainly had a glow about me after dealing with these massive feet 😅 but despite his size he was very light and easy to handle, thankfully!
SN103PA
| Tuesday | 08:00 - 14:30 |
| Wednesday | 08:00 - 14:30 |
| Thursday | 08:00 - 14:30 |
Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Equine Podiatry Wiltshire posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.
Send a message to Equine Podiatry Wiltshire:
Study day, looking at my bones!! It's taken me a couple of years to process these, it's actually quite exciting to take a look at them finally. I'll have them with me in my car, for any clients who want to take a look too. #hoofgeek
Love this video that a client sent me, of her horse taking her out for a walk 🤣 A sympathetic laminitis trim meant he went from pretty much being stable bound, pottering about on sore feet, to stomping off down the lanes! The laminitis trim aims to bring the break over back, closer to where it should be, in doing so lessening the leverage forces on inflamed and painful laminar. You can't argue with basic physics. It enables the horse to be more comfortable, while the hoof capsule recovers. The trim doesn't fix laminitis, it just aids recovery. If you listen carefully to the video, you'll hear my client saying "I can't believe I'm doing this..." 🤗 #laminitis #equinepodiatry
A rather nice foot I trimmed today 😊
During a consultation I'll watch how your horse moves, here I'm looking at how Rainbow is landing with his feet. Look at the fore feet, he is very obviously, landing excessively heel first. An excessive heel first landing means they are landing too much on their heels, likely cause being they are trying to avoid pain or discomfort at least, in their toe. This is one of the many subtle signs of 'Low Grade Laminitis' a term used widely in the EP profession which means some clinical signs of laminitis but the pedal bone has not yet started to sink or rotate, so the laminar have not yet begun to stretch and fail. Other subtle signs of LGL are 👉a stronger than usual pulse(s) 👉shifting weight between feet while standing 👉false bar (I'll do as post on that soon) 👉a reluctance to go forward (often confused with being lazy) 👉a shortened stride 👉rings of bruising on the hoof wall, heel to heel 👉swollen coronet band 👉event lines in the hoof wall, that diverge at the heels 👉blood products in the white line (probably only noticeable after a fresh trim) 👉stretched white line 👉flare in the dorsal wall (front of the hoof) 👉a ring of bruising on the sole, under the pedal bone If you notice one or some of these subtle signs, do not ignore them! These are your early warning signs that your horse is struggling. Luckily for Rainbow, he has a very dedicated and knowledgeable owner who had already made amendments to his management by taking him off the grass to a dry lot area, providing plenty of hay and continuing with gentle exercise, which is advisable providing they can tolerate it. In addition, using a recommended balancer that importantly has the RDA of magnesium which, as an anti inflammatory, can help counter the effects of grass. There's another video in the comments, showing how Rainbow was walking just 6 weeks earlier and the difference is striking, a lot can change in just a few weeks, do be vigilant. 👀 #equinepodiatrywi
Want your business to be the top-listed Pet Store/pet Service?
