Angela Beaton - Dog Training Professional Services

22/12/2024

Old dogs can still learn! While they may take longer to pick up new skills due to age-related changes, patience, positive reinforcement, and consistent practice make all the difference. Training keeps their minds sharp, strengthens your bond, and boosts confidence, proving it’s never too late for them to learn something new.

05/12/2024

Lots of packages this time of year!

05/12/2024

ARE YOU MANAGING?
Are you managing your dog’s environment to prevent or improve unwanted behaviour?

As people, we tend to prefer and look for the more complicated solutions to problems. This tendency is termed “complexity bias” - the tendency to prefer complicated explanations and solutions instead of looking for the simpler ones.

Surely a complicated, time consuming, detailed solution has to be more effective, superior, impressive, or correct?

Complexity bias is so relevant when it comes to changing a dog’s unwanted behaviour. We often get so stuck on trying to modify behaviour through counter conditioning, desensitization or detailed training plans when sometimes the simplest solution to the problem lies in simply managing the environment.

Dogs will do what dogs do – when an opportunity arises to help themselves to food left on a table, to bark at the gate at anyone passing by, to have a drink from that big water bowl at the perfect height, that we call a toilet, to running off with irresistibly smelly dirty underwear, to rummaging through bins in search of anything that may or may not be edible, to running out an opened door in search of adventure - the list is long - dogs will be dogs.

Parents of little children use management all the time without giving it much thought. Baby locks on cupboards, covers on electrical sockets, valuable or dangerous items put far out of reach, fences and locks around pools, etc.

We wouldn’t just train a toddler not to stick their fingers in an electrical socket, not to open cupboards, not to touch a hot plate – it’s far safer, simpler and logical to first manage the environment, to prevent potential incidents.

The same principle should apply to managing a dog’s environment to prevent unwanted behaviour.

The more a behaviour is practiced the more difficult it is to prevent. The more a behaviour is rehearsed the better dogs become at it.

Preventing the behaviour from happening in the first place by using management is the logical, simple and effective way to address it.

Be a good manager – it’s far less stressful, for both us and our dogs.

07/11/2024

Dogs are great at many things, but one thing they are not so good at is generalising. It makes sense to us that, when they have learned a cue at home, they should be able to understand and respond to that cue wherever they go. The thing is that dog brains don't work in quite that way. Dogs need to be taught that the same cue means they do the same thing in all different kinds of environments and situations.

To do this, we need to generalise or 'proof' the cue. Help the dog to understand that the cue asks them for the same thing, wherever they are.

To do this we look at the three factors listed here.

Distance: Initially when we are working on cues with our dogs, we will be very close. But there may well be a time when you would like or need to ask your dog to do something when they are a distance away from you. To do this, gradually start asking the dog to respond to the cue from further away. For recall, as an example, once the cue is well established at home, start practicing at slowly increasing distances when out for a walk (use a longline attached to the dog's harness until their recall is solid in all locations and from distance). Periodically call the dog back from a distance, reward, and then send them off to explore again. This is one that's good to keep doing once their recall is reliable and they can go off lead, as only ever calling an off-lead dog back to put the lead on might well put them off coming back! And remember to always call your dog back if they are approaching an on-lead dog as a simple courtesy to the others using the same area.

Distractions: This is an important one for many dogs, especially young dogs who are keen to explore the world and learn about their environment. Once the cue is well established at home, start building up distractions slowly. Going from your garden at home to a busy local park will be far too much for the dog to be able to concentrate so take it in little steps. Outside your house, perhaps, or somewhere like a car park with plenty of space but where there will be some people/cars etc to act as distractions. To begin with, in a new environment, go back a little in terms of the distance between you and your dog when you give the cue and increase it again as the dog is becoming comfortable with the cue in the new location. Build up the number of different places and how busy the places you go to are to help your dog see that the cue means the same, no matter how busy the environment. (But play fair and let them have plenty of time to explore new environments safely and happily, for both you/your dog and the others using that space).

Duration: Sometimes we will need to ask our dogs to do something and have them keep doing it for a while, perhaps a sit, a down, a wait/stay. Something that helps with building duration is having a release cue, and this is something that we can teach the dog at the same time as the initial cue we'd like them to respond to. For instance, I use 'OK' as my release cue, so I'll ask my dog for a down, and then say 'OK' to let him know that he's fine to get up again. Initially we'll say this almost immediately after we've marked and rewarded the down, and then gradually increase the length of time between the cue and the release.

You can combine all three of these factors to have a cue that your dog can respond to at a distance, in any kind of environment, and (where appropriate) will stay there until released. Having this kind of reliability in your cues means you can be confident and enjoy being out in the world with your dog, knowing that they will listen to you wherever you are.

07/11/2024

WHEN SECONDS COUNT

This post is not advocating that dogs meet every other dog, but about how to go about it, if and when it does happen, in a safer way.

The 3 second rule for dogs meeting each other is used as a guideline to help foster positive introductions, prevent either dog from feeling overwhelmed or trapped and prevent any potential reactivity and stress.

A short 3 second introduction is enough time to provide important information to both dogs.

Enough information for dogs to know – “are you a threat?”, “do I like you?”, “do I want to learn more about you?”, “do I really dislike you?”, “do I need you to go away?” etc. Both dogs may not feel the same way – one may not be happy to engage while the other may want to.

All interactions should ideally happen like this, not just initially. Just like us, dogs can have off days – things like pain, trigger stacking, lack of sleep or a host of other reasons can influence whether a dog wants to interact or not.

There are countless times I have witnessed meetings or introductions between dogs that have gone on just a few seconds too long and have not ended well. This can have long lasting effects on future behaviour when meeting other dogs.

Understanding body language is critically important. If we are going to share our lives with another species, protect them, advocate for them and help them feel safe, then we need to understand and respect their language.

The examples in this post of red and green flags are just a few general ones to look out for – there are many more and these will differ depending on the individual dog, context and circumstances.

Here are some resources and links to learn more about body language -
On Talking Terms With Dogs - Calming Signals, 2nd Edition by Turid Rugaas
https://www.dogwise.com/on-talking-terms-with-dogs-calming-signals-2nd-edition/?srsltid=AfmBOoqj8ruQJx5bCP7qWb03TqCyAGfmAvCj988UuWk_L1_UHbYcZsES

The Veterinary Behaviour Centre
https://www.heska.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/TVBC-Canine-Dog-Body-Language-handout.pdf

Make sure those first 3 seconds count – they can make all the difference.

29/10/2024

A reminder that your dog’s behaviour is never black and white.

Emotions can shift from interested to fearful.
From excited to frustrated.
From curious to cautious.

This is why understanding your dog’s body language is SO important.

We can also see a dog who approaches with interest ALSO show body language that shows fear.

Dogs can be conflicted about certain situations and while it may be difficult to understand WHY, it doesn’t really matter because it’s our job to help them out in these cases.

Space is your friend.
Having a tried and true method of calling your dog away to engage with you is crucial!

❓What do you think your dog can be conflicted about?

28/10/2024

25/10/2024

23/10/2024

Not all dogs react to stress the same way, especially in the early stages. Knowing your dog can help you manage their stress earlier- when it's a little stress, not a lot.

19/10/2024

Dogs are absolutely amazing creatures and, as humans, many of us love them and, in that very human way for showing affection, want to touch and hug them. It's a big part of who we are as a species. And some dogs do enjoy hugs - both of my current dogs are lovers of physical contact. If my boy isn't getting enough fuss and love, he will grab an arm with his paw and drag it closer. My adolescent girl will hop up on the sofa and flop onto your chest and snuggle.

Many (probably most in all honesty) dogs don't. If they like much contact at all, it is more likely to be a scritch on the side of the neck or chest.

However a dog does like to receive physical attention and fuss, the most important thing to remember is that they must have the choice of whether they want fuss or not. And, if your dog is one who is less keen on contact, advocate for them. Tell the people around you how to check with the dog for consent, and to respect the signals they give.

The following is an excerpt from Building the Bond, available now (link in the comments) on how to check for consent before touching a dog.

"Frequently seen advice states that we should reach a hand towards the dog for them to sniff and ‘get our scent’ as an opening step. This is incorrect for a couple of reasons. First of all, this movement is getting in the dog’s space as the hand is usually put right up close to their face, and this could be alarming for the dog, especially if the movement is rapid. Secondly, the dog’s sense of smell is between 10,000 and 100,000 times as acute as our own according to scientists. Alexandra Horwitz, in the book Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know, tells us that dogs can detect a teaspoon of sugar in two Olympic sized swimming pools – that’s one teaspoon of sugar diluted in five million litres. They can smell us a long time before we are close enough to interact with them!

Avoid bending down and looming over the dog. People are much bigger than they are most of the time, so this can be intimidating and scary for them, especially when they do not know the person. Also avoid facing them directly and staring at them, as these signals are confrontational in dogs and could make them uncomfortable or even feel the need to be defensive.

Stand at an angle somewhere around 45 degrees away from looking straight at the dog, with your arms loose at your sides. You may want to consider crouching down and maybe holding a hand slightly towards the dog while speaking to them quietly and inviting them into your space. If the dog does approach and comes right up to you, then stroke them – not on top of their head but on the chest or side of the neck. After a couple of seconds stop, and remove your hand to see what they do next. If they do not move away, or they move in closer, stroke them again, but remember to keep stopping and ensure they are given the option to end the interaction and move away.

If the dog does not approach, they instead move backwards, or they turn their head or whole body away, respect their choice and their signals and do not keep trying to interact."

04/10/2024

While dog training plays a useful role in building a harmonious relationship with our canine companions, living ethically with dogs also involves respecting their inherent dogness and acknowledging their need to practice natural behaviours. Recognising that dogs have their unique instincts, drives, and desires allows guardians to create an environment that caters to these innate tendencies. By providing opportunities for dogs to engage in species-specific activities such as sniffing, digging, and foraging, we enrich their lives, promote mental well-being, and strengthen our bond with them. In essence, fostering an ethical relationship with dogs goes beyond training, encompassing a profound understanding and appreciation of their true nature.

The ISCP is built on these fundamental ethics. Join us today!
https://www.theiscp.com/

02/10/2024

We have a puppy and still use play yard panels for separation and to increase good choices for our 1 year old pup. 🐶 In this image you can see we have blocked off the stairs. 🐱 The cats enjoy this arrangement as Koda is still learning they are not to be chased. He and the cats are buds most of the time, but as a pup he still needs reminders and success stations to help.

26/09/2024

TRAINING TUESDAY
Have you fallen victim to an attack of the furry land shark?

Puppy biting is a normal behaviour. So why do they do it and what can we do?

🐶Biting is a normal part of playing with their siblings and to them a lot of fun. When we play with our puppy, they will grab at us to get us to play. Teach them how to play with us appropriately by redirecting to a toy like a soft tug toy.

🐶Puppies learn about their environment by putting everything in their mouth
Provide management such as pens/barriers to prevent access to unsuitable things like your shoes, the power cords, your un**es...... Also give them suitable options to chew and play with (think toilet rolls with dried treats to rip up, chews, frozen treats and treat dispensers)

🐶Make sure they get enough sleep. Often tired puppies tend to bite and mouth more than puppies who get enough down time. Set up a designate area for your puppy where they can rest and play. Puppy pens are great for this.

🐶Avoid Rough housing (grabbing, holding their mouth or playing with our hands) is not the best way to interact with our puppies. This just encourages biting and mouthing. We can play tug with a squeaky toy or a tug toy but this should not be our main game. Teaching tricks, such as shake or roll over, basic obedience, playing hide and seek or bring a toy back might be more appropriate.

🐶Should your puppy bite you – by definition any teeth on skin – stop the interaction, ask for a calm behaviour and redirect to something they are allowed to chew.
With patience and persistence, your puppy will understand that mouthing or biting will stop the game but keeping their teeth to themselves will get them the playtime they enjoy.