Marquez tiels, Arizona Cockatiels For Sale

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Marquez tiels, Arizona Cockatiels For Sale Arizona Cockatiel Breeder NCS Band 44M located in Casa Grande, Arizona Handfed, hand tamed and socialized cockatiel chicks
(14)

17/08/2024
05/08/2024
17/06/2024

➡️ General female and egg-laying facts:
🔸Most females never lay a single egg, which is why so many are mistaken for males (especially if they visually look like a male in color and/or pattern or display male behaviors).
🔸Of the smaller percentage of those that that do lay, most are accidentally and unknowingly triggered by something their owners did or something their owners added to the bird's environment.
🔸Of the even smaller percentage of those that become egg bound - which is the common fear among bird owners - this is usually the result of a very poor diet, lack of exercise, being too young or too old, and/or having had too many previous clutches in a short space of time.
🔸Very few are actually chronic layers - females that lay regardless of what you try to do to prevent it.
🔸Egg laying can be - and should be - discouraged if the hen is a single female or if the owner has no intentions encouraging breeding for reproduction.
🔸Sadly yet understandably, many females are overlooked, not desired or passed up for males for three reasons: (1) the fear of the hen becoming egg bound, (2) the desire to have a colorful bird, which males are believed to be more so than females, and (3) the desire to have a bird sing and talk, which females are generally believed not to do. With education and understanding, females can be discouraged from unnecessary egg laying, can be found in certain mutations to be just as colorful, and do have the ability to sing and whistle (even though this is less common).

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➡️ What triggers or stimulates a female to lay:
🔸The presence of a male
🔸The presence of a nest or bed of any kind (a place that looks dark, private, cozy)
🔸Getting a second bird who is not DNA tested (or whose s*x is merely guessed) or getting a second bird despite not knowing what s*x the first bird is.
🔸Allowing females to free roam (supervised and especially unsupervised) or allowed to have too much access to the house or designated bird area, making it too easy to find multiple places to nest and become hormonal and/or aggressive
🔸Too many long hours of daylight (12 or more hours of daylight) 🔸Inappropriate petting below the neck
🔸Indoor birds that are kept in warmer, household temperatures (this imitates the warmer seasons ideal for breeding)
🔸Toys that are located within their safe area or cage that tough their backs (so try rearranging them along the sides of the cage and at chest to eye level)

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➡️ What to do to discourage egg laying:
🔸For homes with 1 BIRD: Always make sure your single bird (or subsequent birds) are DNA tested or confirmed before getting more.
🔸Give 14 hours daily of darkened, daily sleep during hormonal / breeding seasons (for outdoor birds, typically Spring and Summer).
🔸No petting below the neck
🔸A cooler home or bird room (warm temps = breeding environment)
🔸For FEMALE birds: when in the mating stance (chest low, tail up, sequential chirping sounds) - iterrupt and remove your bird from the person, place or thing that has her s*xually stimulated
🔸NO BEDS or nests of any kind! No cozy hut, happy hut, nest, shoebox, coconut toy, hammock, etc. Beds are breeding only, never sleeping. Beds shouldn't be given even if she does lay eggs - leave on the bottom of the cage on the cage grate.
🔸Use a cage grate to separate your female from the cage bottom bedding material. Yes - females can still choose to lay on top of the cage grate, but the cage grate being present is just one more uncomfortable deterrent to discourage egg laying (it does not look appealing to her as a nest).

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➡️ When eggs are laid, despite attempts to discourage:
🔸Use dummy eggs! Buy 7 Cockatiel dummy eggs from Amazon. As soon as she lays her very first egg, add as many dummy eggs as are needed to make a clutch of 7-8 eggs total. This tricks (most) hens into thinking they've laid all they need to lay and will not encourage more laying.
🔸Do not remove any real eggs laid or dummy eggs added. Allow her to sit on them for 25-28 days OR until she ignores them, usually around the same time frame.
🔸Eggs can be removed 25-28 days after the last egg is laid or after the day dummy eggs are added OR after she ignores them herself. Do not leave her eggs longer than 30 days and **DO NOT** remove the eggs one at a time, every other day!!!!! Remove all at once on the same day. This prevents her from thinking she must start laying again since the first clutch "didn't hatch."
🔸 The last resort is a hormone (birth control) shot called Lupron that can be administered by a vet.

16/06/2024

Hormones and related behaviours usually last 2-3 months, but can be more or less. Try putting methods in place to reduce hormones, and when she's displaying any hormonal behaviours ignore her until she's out of it.
To reduce hormones you can:
●Increase darkness/sleep to 12-14 hours. (14 is best as Tiels are an Australian species. )
●Don't touch anywhere but the head, neck and feet. Everywhere else is an erogenous zone. (Meaning touching there can elicit a s*xual response!)
●Remove any and all possible nesting sites. This includes nest boxes, happy huts, tunnels, hides, cupboards, blankets, cardboard boxes etc. Basically anything dark and enclosed.
●Keep the room(s)/areas they're in on the cooler side during the spring and summer. If it's too warm it simulates good weather/temps for breeding. You can lower room temperatures by running an AC if you have one, keeping windows open (if possible. If birds are out slightly cracked or consider installing screens or bars over the windows so they can be opened) or running a fan that has no accessible blades.
●Reduce feeding high fat, high calorie, and high protien foods, and no warm and/or mushy foods. Limited seeds, nuts and treats, no meat or eggs, limited beans, legumes and certain grains like quinoa etc. No cooked, warm or mushy foods. Instead feed more fresh foods like veggies, herbs, weeds, grasses, spices, flowers, sprouted seeds etc.
●Stop giving food 24/7 and instead pull all food overnight, and feed at specific meal times during the day. In the wild they feed in two main sessions, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. These last on average 1-2 hours. They will sometimes have a shorter feeding session in the late afternoon/evening just before dark and settling down to roost for the night. Providing them with food 24/7 (which they don't actually need) can trigger hormones as plentiful food is linked with breeding season. Feeding distinct meals with veggies first thing in the morning can also encourage them to eat more fresh foods if they don't already. Portion sizing is also very important, most tiels only need about 1-2 tablespoons of food per meal. If they eat all of it and want some more, you can give extra fresh foods or pellets.
●Introduce more enrichment and foraging opportunities and/or frequently re-arrange her cage to keep her busy - busy beaks have less time for hormonal behaviour!
●Don't let her on you while displaying hormonal behaviour. Remove any mirrors in the cage, and any toys that are triggering hormones.

If laying eggs you can either leave them if infertile, or freeze, boil, blow out etc. Then put them back, or replace completely with appropriately sized dummy eggs. Don't remove eggs entirely until she's finished laying and has lost interest in them, or it can encourage them to keep laying until they have a whole clutch. While laying eggs it's important to ensure she's on a good diet (not an all seed or seed based diet) and up calcium levels. Some good sources include veggies like spring greens, spinach, kale etc. Oyster shell, cuttle bone, mineral blocks, cleaned eggs shells, or a calcium supplement sprinkled over food. If your bird is on a healthy complete diet, make sure the supplement you use doesn't contain fat soluble vitamins and minerals as they can overdose on them. The type you put into water are ineffective so best to avoid.
Parrots (smaller ones especially) can suffer from egg binding, which is where the egg gets stuck inside them. This is more common in birds who don't have a nutritionally complete diet, such as those on a seed based diet. Keep an eye on her for symptoms just in case. These can include lethargy, appearing 'puffed up' and/or sitting on bottom of cage for extended periods of time, tail bobbing, lack of appetite, struggled/heavy breathing, trouble perching, and swelling near the vent area. If you notice any of these signs, for best chance of survival and recovery take her to an avian vet as soon as possible.

If none of these methods work, making an appointment with your avian vet may be necessary (especially if she's a chronic egg layer or has a history of egg binding). Hormone blocking injections can be given or an implant administered to help reduce hormone levels and related behaviours if needed. :)

A variety of about 3 perches is recommended for your tiels. The smooth dowels that come with new cages and sandpaper per...
06/06/2024

A variety of about 3 perches is recommended for your tiels. The smooth dowels that come with new cages and sandpaper perch covers should be avoided as they can cause slipping, irritation and sores to the bottom of your bird's feet resulting in a condition known as "bumblefoot". Bird safe natural wood perches, flat perches and rope, made of h**p or untreated cotton, are good options.

  Tiels love leafy greens, chop, beans, brown rice, hard boiled eggs and a host of other varieties in their diet. Try di...
03/06/2024


Tiels love leafy greens, chop, beans, brown rice, hard boiled eggs and a host of other varieties in their diet. Try different colors, shapes and presentations to get them and keep them interested.

Be safe this summer!
02/06/2024

Be safe this summer!

Toys are essential and can keep your bird occupied and happy. (Don't overcrowd the cage with them, just 2 or 3 at a time...
22/05/2024

Toys are essential and can keep your bird occupied and happy. (Don't overcrowd the cage with them, just 2 or 3 at a time). You can easily make them. During holidays when I have a household of guests with too many cooks in the kitchen, I put them to work to keep them busy, and they enjoy it.

The supplies used in these photos are readily available on the internet via Anazon, Bonka, bird stores, and places like Hobby Lobby.
Plastic lacing cord & plastic C ring
Balsa wood slats
Sola gear chips
Compressed cardboard rings
Rattan balls
Colored paper straws
Plastic & vine toys
Pinecones
Mini sneakers
Foraging card crumbles
Chinese finger pulls
Beads & vegetable tanned leather strips
Sea grass pieces
Cupcake liners

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