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21/06/2023

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Don't is too loose of a concept for dogs. It's much easier to ask for incompatible behavior.https://www.facebook.com/100...
19/11/2022

Don't is too loose of a concept for dogs. It's much easier to ask for incompatible behavior.
https://www.facebook.com/100063479769941/posts/598245758968078/?sfnsn=mo&mibextid=6aamW6

So often what I hear from people is they want solutions and suggestions for how to get their dog to NOT do something. And it's easy to get stuck thinking "How do I get him to not jump on me? How do I make him not chase the cat?" etc. But it isn't really helpful because it only addresses one part of the equation. The other half is what the dog should do instead. What would you rather he do in that moment? "Nothing" is not a behavior. It's not really something we can cue. We can't cue a dog to "not do something." But we can cue them to DO something else. We can cue him to sit instead of jump. We can cue him to down instead of chase the cat. We can cue a specific behavior. So when it comes to changing our dog's behavior, remember that asking them not to do something is a more ambiguous, unclear thing then to ask them to do something concrete. Ask your dog To Do!

09/11/2022

🫣This is quite an old, outdated myth.

The old training idea goes a little something like this: You correct food aggression by putting your hand in the dog's food bowl while they are eating, removing the bowl from the dog while they are eating, and then giving it back again. The belief is that doing this will prevent the dog from developing food aggression.

This unfortunately does the opposite and creates food aggression and reactivity. Think about it from the dog's perspective. You’re sitting at your dinner table, hungry, about to eat your food and your partner came in and just snatched your plate from you or stuck their hands in your food. Now, I don’t know about you, but I would be pretty upset. This kind of method is NOT going to create a positive association. This will make me quite reactive.

If someone did this every time I ate I would become increasingly reactive because I’m hungry and food is life. If you don’t eat, you’ll die. Think what you’re like when you’re ‘hangry’ (hungry + angry). Your mood changes, you're less tolerant, even ‘snippy’. You’re not going to be your best self. The moment you eat, you feel loads better and you’re back to your charming self.

💥Reactivity revolving around a valuable resource is known as resource guarding.

Resource guarding is an instinctual normal behaviour for dogs, it's necessary because it helps the dog to survive. This instinct has not been removed from our domesticated dogs, and when it comes to food, if you don’t eat you will starve and die.

Factors that play a role in resource guarding are genetics, environment (does the dog feel safe), unpleasant experiences, trust and how it feels when eating.

Resource guarding looks like a dog eating faster than normal, avoidance behaviour by moving away with the valuable object, freezing or stillness, growling, snapping, lunging, or growling when around the object the dog is protecting. The dog may display one or two of these behaviours, or all of these behaviours at the same time.

🐾It is incredibly important to understand your dog is NOT being rude or naughty. Your dog is behaving like a dog, which for them is a normal way to communicate they are not comfortable in the situation.

Placing your hand in the food bowl without warning creates panic in the dog as you are ‘stealing’ their vital resource of survival, which is food, and when you always take something the dog perceives as high value without equal trade the dog then anticipates you are unsafe and take away all the good things which then leads him to defend himself and his precious items.

Intimidation or scolding will only make the situation worse because this causes stress which increases reactivity. You want the dog to associate your approach and your hands with giving, not taking away. This means that your hands give more good things and don’t take away the good things.

How to prevent resource guarding.

If the dog is already exhibiting resource-guarding tendencies then this is NOT recommended! Seek advice from a qualified force-free behaviour professional. There may be multiple reasons for this behaviour, and it should only be dealt with by a trained force-free professional behaviourist.

This is only recommended to prevent resource guarding if the dog is relaxed and shows no signs of distress or concern when around food. This is to create a positive association with you and your hands.

Each step can take days or weeks. There is no rush! Only practice at your dog's pace.

One repetition is a single approach and toss of treats.

You only need to do a step once a day 2 – 3 repetitions. Only move to the next step when you can visibly see your dog is 100% relaxed with the step you are in. If at any time you see any behaviours that you are worried about. Please reach out to a qualified force-free
professional.

🟢Step 1 - Putting food in the bowl
Sit on a chair at a safe distance where your dog is still visibly relaxed with your dog’s bowl across from you. Randomly toss individual treats in the bowl for your dog to eat. Repeat a couple of times then walk away.

Be at a far safe distance and call your dog happily away from the food bowl - as your dog gets to you scatter feed treats on the ground which should keep him busy for a while. While your dog is eating the treats, safely go and pick up the bowl to put the bowl away.

🟢Step 2 – Walk past the bowl and toss treats.
As you walk to approach, say your dog’s name then toss treats into the bowl and walk away. You should only continue to approach if the dog shows NO panic or stress.

🟢Step 3 – Approach the food bow.
As you approach, say your dog's name in a happy jolly tone, bend down and toss a handful of delicious treats into the food bowl. Then continue to walk away.

🟢Step 4 – Picking up the bowl.
Approach the dog and say their name happily, bend to pick the bowl up, immediately put treats in the bowl and put the bowl down for the dog to eat and walk away.

05/11/2022

⭐️ SMARTx50 ⭐️
Interrupting habits & beginning to build a new behavioral repertoire

How this helps you and your pup:

SMART means See Mark And Reward Training. 🎉

Whether you are consciously training or not, pups are always learning. It’s imperative to reinforce behaviors you like in real life, not just in the classroom.

The goal of SMARTx50 is to capture and reward all the lovely behaviors your pup is already doing throughout the day. If you consistently reward your pup for lying down wherever and whenever it happens, your pup will likely lie down more often in many different environments because the behavior pays off. Playing the SMARTx50 game helps your pup learn to behave well in different situations. This game is great for adult dogs and puppies!

✅ How to play SMARTx50:

🔸You can use your pup’s meal to reward
In the morning, portion out what they would normally eat for breakfast

🔸When you see your puppy doing something you like, mark it!

🔸You can mark by saying “yes” or “good”, or by clicking a clicker

Some nice behaviors to mark: lying calmly, playing with a toy, chewing an appropriate object, sitting, making a cute face, lying on an appropriate bed or in the crate.

After you mark, give your pup a piece of kibble.
The goal is to "See, Mark, And Reward" 50 behaviors per day.

Thank you to Kathy Sdao for creating this fantastic game! You can learn more about it in her book, Plenty in Life is Free. 🦄

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