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Internal Parasites in DogsThis handout provides an overview of some of the internal parasites that can infect your dog. ...
01/08/2025

Internal Parasites in Dogs

This handout provides an overview of some of the internal parasites that can infect your dog. For more detailed information, refer to the separate handouts “Roundworm Infection in Dogs”, “Hookworm Infections in Dogs”, “Whipworm Infections in Dogs”, “Tapeworm Infections in Dogs”, and “Heartworm Infection in Dogs”.

Are there different types of internal parasites or worms?
There are several types of internal parasites that cause problems in dogs. These include roundworm (Toxocara cati, Toxascaris leonina), hookworm (Ancylostoma), whipworm (Trichuris vulpis), tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum, Taenia species, and Echinococcus species), and heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis).

Are these parasites dangerous to dogs?
Intestinal worms can be a serious problem in young puppies. Hookworms can cause anemia (decreased red blood cells) and roundworms can lead to poor growth and development. In adult dogs, however, intestinal parasites are only occasionally life-threatening. Debilitated animals or those with a weakened immune system are more likely to experience severe intestinal parasitism and show clinical signs. Heartworm is a life-threatening parasite spread by mosquitoes and causes significant damage to the heart and lungs. Heartworm disease is one of the most serious conditions seen in small animal practice.

What will happen if my dog is infected by internal parasites?
Different parasites will affect your dog's body differently.

Roundworms
If a growing puppy is infected with many roundworms, the worms can stunt the puppy's growth, cause serious digestive upset, and result in excessive gas formation. These puppies often have a characteristic “pot-bellied” appearance. Roundworms are free-living in the intestines. They do not require an intermediate host to spread from dog to dog but can be transmitted by ingesting the eggs passed in the f***s of infected dogs.

Hookworms
Hookworms are one of the most significant intestinal parasites of dogs. The hookworm is approximately ½” to 1" (1-2 cm) long. It attaches to the small intestine lining, where it feeds on blood. As a result, hookworms can cause severe anemia in infected dogs. The infective larvae enter the host either by mouth or through the skin, particularly the feet. Eczema and secondary bacterial infection can occur due to irritation as they burrow through the skin.

Whipworms
Whipworms are small, usually only 1” to 2” (25-50 mm) long. They live in the large intestine where they cause irritation and inflammation. Symptoms of whipworm infection include chronic watery diarrhea, bloody diarrhea, and weight loss.

Tapeworms
Tapeworms require an intermediate host to complete their lifecycle, such as a flea, a bird, or certain species of rodent. Your dog cannot get tapeworms directly from another dog or cat.

Dipylidium caninum, the most common tapeworm affecting dogs, causes few problems in the adult dog, but can result in digestive upset and stunted growth in puppies. The intermediate host of Dipylidium is the flea; dogs get this type of tapeworm from eating an infected flea.

Taenia species of tapeworms usually infect adult dogs and cause few problems. Puppies are occasionally infected and, depending on the type of worm involved, the large number of worms can cause intestinal blockage. The intermediate hosts for Taenia species are small mammals such as rodents and rabbits.

Echinococcus, another type of tapeworm, is important because it is zoonotic, meaning it can infect humans. The adult tapeworm is tiny, only about ¼" (5-6 mm) long. Sheep and humans can act as the intermediate hosts for Echinococcus, with the immature forms of Echinococcus developing inside various organs of these species. Echinococcus is a risk to dogs that live near sheep.

Heartworms
Heartworms are spread by mosquitoes. A mosquito, when feeding on a dog, may inject heartworm larvae into the bloodstream. These larvae mature and ultimately travel to the heart, residing in the major vessels of the heart and lungs. Adult heartworms are large, reaching 6" to 14" (15-36 cm) long. Typical clinical signs of heartworm infection are fatigue, coughing, and poor physical condition. In advanced cases, congestive heart failure occurs and dogs may suddenly die during exercise or excitement. Prognosis is poor without treatment.

How are internal parasite infections diagnosed?
Hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm infections are generally diagnosed using a process called f***l flotation, where a small stool sample is mixed with a special solution that causes the eggs to float to the top of the solution.
Tapeworm can be detected by observing segments (proglottids) on the f***s or around the cat’s a**s.
Heartworm is diagnosed using specific blood tests.
Sometimes, these internal parasites are not discovered until clinical signs are present. For this reason, a f***l examination and heartworm test should be part of your dog’s routine annual healthcare program.

How can I prevent or treat these parasites?
Prompt treatment should be started when any intestinal parasites are detected. Periodic, routine deworming may be appropriate for dogs at risk of re-infection. Controlling fleas will prevent infection with certain types of tapeworms.

You can prevent your dog from getting heartworm by using a heartworm preventive and minimizing their exposure to mosquitos by using an FDA- or EPA-approved insecticide designed for use on dogs. Many heartworm preventives also protect against certain intestinal worms. Speak with your veterinarian about the most appropriate parasite control program for your dog.

Are there other internal parasites that can affect my dog?
Other internal parasites that affect dogs include coccidia, giardia, and lungworm. See handouts “Coccidiosis in Dogs”, “Giardia in Dogs”, and “Lungworm Infections in Dogs” for more information.

© Copyright 2025 LifeLearn Inc. Used and/or modified with permission under license.

By Tammy Hunter, DVM; Malcolm Weir, DVM, MSc, MPH; Ernest Ward, DVM; Catherine Barnette, DVM
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31/07/2025

Happy New month to you all

How to Spot a Good Quality Chicks and a Bad One!When your new day-old chicks arrive, you need to check them carefully! L...
30/07/2025

How to Spot a Good Quality Chicks and a Bad One!

When your new day-old chicks arrive, you need to check them carefully! Looking closely can save you a lot of trouble and money later.

Here’s what to look for to tell a healthy, good chick from a weak one:

*Signs of a Good Quality Chicks:

💪Active & Lively: They should be moving around, looking curious, and making happy chirping sounds. If you gently put them on their back, they should quickly flip over.

💪Bright Eyes: Their eyes should be wide open, shiny, and clean (no wetness or cloudy look).

💪Clean, Dry Feathers: Their soft baby feathers should be fully dry, fluffy, and clean. No wet spots, dirt, or bits of eggshell stuck to them.

💪Healed Navel: The spot where they were connected to the egg (their belly button) should be completely closed, dry, and clean. No wetness, redness, or string hanging out. An open belly button can let in sickness.

💪Strong Legs & Toes: Their legs should look strong, straight, and full. They should walk steadily, not wobble or splay out. Their toes should be straight, not bent.

💪Clean Beak: The beak should be straight and clean. No strange shapes, spots, or dirt. Their nose holes should be clear.

💪All the Same Size: Most chicks in the box should be about the same size. Too many tiny or very big ones can mean problems.

💪Soft Belly: Their belly should feel soft, not hard, bloated, or squishy. This means they properly took in their egg yolk.

*Signs of Bad QUALITY Chicks!

👌Sleepy & Still: Chicks that are quiet, huddled, sleeping a lot, or don't move when you touch them.

👌Dirty Bottom: P**p stuck to the feathers around their backside. This often means they are stressed, too cold, or have tummy problems.

👌Wet or Sticky Feathers: If their baby feathers are still wet, matted, or sticky, they probably had a bad start at the hatchery or during travel.

👌Open or Wet Navel: Any sign of a belly button that isn't fully closed, or looks wet or red, is a big sign of early sickness.

👌Dry or Shrunk Legs: Their legs look thin, dry, or a darker color. They will also be less active.

👌Bad Shapes: Bent toes, splayed legs (legs spread out wide), twisted neck, or bent beak.

👌Red Knees/Hocks: Red or swollen spots on their legs, often from struggling in the egg machine or rough handling. These chicks will likely find it hard to walk to eat and drink.

👌Pale or Dull: They look lighter or less bright than healthy chicks of the same type.

👌Too Small: Much smaller than the other chicks in the group. This means they didn't grow well.

Why Good Quality Chicks Matter So Much?

Healthy, good chicks have a much better chance to live, grow faster, use their food better, and fight off sickness. Starting with weak chicks means you will likely have problems their whole life, spend more on medicine, and make less money.

Always try to buy your chicks from a trusted hatchery or seller that has a good name for healthy birds. Don't be afraid to check your chicks carefully when they arrive.

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Shout out to my newest followers! Excited to have you onboard!

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NEWCASTLE DISEASE IN CHICKENS  Newcastle disease is a serious sickness in chickens caused by a virus. It spreads fast an...
29/07/2025

NEWCASTLE DISEASE IN CHICKENS

Newcastle disease is a serious sickness in chickens caused by a virus. It spreads fast and affects their breathing, nerves, and digestion. It can kill many birds if not handled early.

CAUSES
- It’s caused by a virus called Newcastle virus
- Spreads through air, feed, water, or contact with infected chickens
- Can be brought in by wild birds, humans, or dirty equipment

SYMPTOMS
- Chickens breathing with difficulty
- Twisted neck or shaky legs
- Diarrhea with green color
- Dropping in egg numbers
- Sudden death in severe cases

PREVENTION AND TREATMENT
- Vaccinate chicks early
- Keep chicken house clean and dry
- Don’t mix sick chickens with healthy ones
- Wash hands and tools before entering the pen
- No cure for the virus itself, but support treatment like vitamins and antibiotics for secondary infections can help

Keep your birds safe, your farm clean, and your pocket happy.

10 SECRETS TO GROWING MASSIVE BROILER CHICKENS  TIPS THAT WORKED FOR ME AND CAN WORK FOR YOU TOOGrowing broilers to an i...
29/07/2025

10 SECRETS TO GROWING MASSIVE BROILER CHICKENS
TIPS THAT WORKED FOR ME AND CAN WORK FOR YOU TOO

Growing broilers to an impressive size isn’t magic—it’s consistency, observation, and good decisions. I’ve raised several batches, and here are 10 solid secrets I stick to every time:

1. START WITH GOOD CHICKS 🐣
Don’t compromise here. Healthy day-old chicks from a reputable hatchery make all the difference. I always go for active ones with bright eyes and strong legs.

2. FEEDING IS EVERYTHING 🍗
I feed high-quality broiler starter, grower, and finisher feeds—no skipping. I never dilute their feed with maize or wheat unless it's a certified feed mix.

3. FEED THEM ENOUGH AND ON TIME ⏰
From morning till evening, I make sure their feed trays are not empty for long. Regular feeding means faster growth—period.

4. WATER IS POWER 💧
Clean water, always available. I wash drinkers daily because dirty water causes illness—and that’s a weight killer.

5. MAINTAIN CLEAN SURROUNDINGS 🧹
Broilers hate stress. I clean their space often, reduce ammonia smell, and make sure their cage is dry and well-ventilated.

6. SPACE MATTERS 🏠
I don’t overcrowd. Give them breathing room. I follow the one bird per square foot rule—it cuts down on heat stress and fighting.

7. SUPPLEMENTS BOOST GROWTH 💊
Vitamins, amino acids, and growth enhancers (safe, approved ones!) really help. I use them based on vet advice.

8. PROTECT THEM FROM STRESS 😰
Noise, rough handling, sudden temperature changes—these things reduce weight gain. I keep things quiet and stable.

9. DEAL WITH SICKNESS FAST 🏥
I isolate sick birds immediately and contact a vet. Prevention is better, but reaction speed saves the rest.

10. WEIGH WEEKLY 📊
I track their growth every week. If there’s a drop, I know something’s off. It helps me adjust quickly and keep them on track.

If you're serious about raising broilers for meat and profit, these steps can really set you apart. They're not just tips—they're habits that changed my poultry game completely.

Cattle on a free ranch.
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A goat bra may sound humorous at first, but it’s actually a practical tool in dairy goat farming, especially for does (f...
26/07/2025

A goat bra may sound humorous at first, but it’s actually a practical tool in dairy goat farming, especially for does (female goats) that are lactating or have udder health concerns.

Why a Goat Bra Is Important:

1. Protects the Udder from Injury

1.A goat’s udder hangs low, especially in high-yielding dairy breeds like Alpine, Saanen or Toggenburg.
11.A bra supports the udder and prevents it from dragging on the ground or getting scratched by thorns, rocks or sharp objects, especially in free-range settings.

2. Prevents Mastitis
1.Mastitis is an infection of the udder that can occur due to bacteria entering through cuts or cracks.
11.A clean, fitted bra shields the teats from dirt, insects and contact injuries, reducing risk of infection.

3. Helps Postpartum Healing
1.After kidding, some goats may develop edema (swelling) or saggy udder.
11.A bra provides gentle support, improving blood flow and aiding faster recovery.

4. Prevents Kids from Over-Nursing
1.When kids suckle too aggressively or frequently, it can damage the udder.
11.A bra helps control access, especially if the doe needs rest between nursing or is weaning.

5. Supports Uneven or Large Udders
1.Goats with one side larger than the other or with pendulous udders, need extra support to avoid permanent damage or strain.
11.A goat bra keeps the udder evenly balanced and supported.

6. Keeps the Udder Clean Before Milking
1.If you’re producing milk for human use (like for cheese, yogurt, or skincare) hygiene is key.
11.A bra acts as a clean barrier between the udder and the environment.

Swagx Vet Clinic

Feeding Methods for poultry For newly hatched birds of any species, a complete feed in crumble form is the nutrition pro...
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Feeding Methods for poultry

For newly hatched birds of any species, a complete feed in crumble form is the nutrition program of choice, regardless of other considerations. A complete-feed program for growing stock, particularly for laying and breeding stock, is also highly recommended. Advantages of complete-feed programs over mash-and-grain systems include the simplicity of feeding, accuracy of medication administration, improved balance of dietary nutrients, and superior feed conversion efficiency.

Regardless of the feeding system, recommendations of the feed manufacturer or the strain’s breeder company should be followed with regard to the feeding of extra calcium, grit, or whole grain. Fresh, clean water should always be readily available.

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SNAKE 🐍 FARM
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ANIMALS BEHAVIORS An animal’s “behavior” is the product of its genetic composition, the environment in which the animal ...
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ANIMALS BEHAVIORS

An animal’s “behavior” is the product of its genetic composition, the environment in which the animal functions, and the animal’s experience (particularly in the pre- and postnatal environment through the primary socialization period). This section focuses primarily on the diagnosis and treatment of abnormal behavior of domestic animals. For each species, normal social behavior is outlined, followed by a description of common behavioral disorders.

The minimum behavioral welfare requirements for the housing and enrichment of farm, zoo, and laboratory animals, known as the five freedoms, are equally important for family pets. These include freedom from hunger and thirst; discomfort; pain, injury, or disease; fear and distress; and freedom to express normal species behaviors. When these needs are not fully addressed, welfare is compromised and both health and behavior problems arise.

In companion animals, behavior problems weaken the pet–owner bond, resulting in a decreased owner commitment to pet care. They are a primary reason for pet relinquishment and euthanasia. Yet studies show that many owners do not report behavior changes to their veterinarian, and most veterinarians neglect to inquire about them. Thus, screening for any behavioral changes or emerging behavior problems should be done at each veterinary visit to ensure that the behavioral health, physical health, and welfare of the pet are being effectively and humanely managed.

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