18/03/2024
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March 17 is St. Gertrude's Day, observed as part of the Pennsylvania Dutch folk-cultural year, blending the farmer's almanac and the old liturgical calendar. This was the day that gardeners would plant their onions, peas, and potatoes, and for some, it was a time for the blessing of the garden with old ritual traditions.
St. Gertrude of Nivelles (628-659) is the patron saint of gardeners, cats, and travelers, and protectoress against rodents and mental illness. Although the Pennsylvania Dutch were predominantly Protestant, the folk-spirituality of the culture was informed by centuries of Catholic tradition.
Among these annual observations was the baking of a heavy cake-like bread called "Datsch" on St. Gertrudes's day including ingredients described in oral tradition as "something green, something black, and something white for her cat." Crumbs from the "Datsch" were scattered at the four corners of the garden to feed St. Gertrude's feline spiritual helpers, guard from rodents and pests, and bless the seed and soil.
Celebrated PA German author and philosophy professor at Kutztown University, John Joseph Stoudt (1912-1981), recorded the following rhyme about St. Gertrude's Day from his grandmother Amanda Baer Stoudt of Allentown (1867-1942):
Ebbes Griene, Ebbes Schwaatze
Ebbes Weisse fer die Katze.
Backt mer Datsch am Drudisdaag
Strei die Grimmle wo sie mag,
Vun Eck zu Eck am Gaarderand,
So waxe dei Blantze uffem Land.
"Something green, something black,
Something white, for her cats.
One bakes Datsch on Gertrude's day,
and spreads the crumbs as they may,
From corner to corner of the garden's edge,
So the plants shall grow upon the land."
This rhyme was recorded at the home of Stoudt in Fleetwood, Berks County in the 1970s by culinary historian William Woys Weaver and architectural historian Ivan Glick, and was recently included in Weaver's "Dutch Treats: Heirloom Recipes from Farmhouse Kitchens" (2016, St. Lynn's Press), along with a recipe for St. Gertrude's Datsch.
If you don't make Datsch at home, St. Gertrude's cats would appreciate any kind of breadcrumbs you may have in your pantry!