Royal Aquatics.

07/02/2022

Aqurium rack system (aluminum) with 15 aqurium (8mm) for sale. Clean blue ring 6nos available. Contact me on whatsapp 70049647.

08/01/2022

Discus medium size for you to choose 150Qr each.

23/12/2021

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23/11/2021

14/08/2021

Beautiful and healthy nice Discus fish on sale...pm for booking...

09/08/2021

Platinum Angelfish arrived..available for order..size 5cm-6cm..

09/08/2021

New Discuss shipment arrived to Doha...wait them finish the Qurantine process...

02/07/2021

Healthy fresh holand beef hart mix available back...

03/06/2021

Methylene blue limited quantity available.( for aquarium use only..) call 70049647

29/01/2021

😁😁😁😁

21/12/2020

Goldfish Care Basics

Goldfish (Carassius auratus) are colourful, peaceful, have a long lifespan and are intelligent! The ancestors of this species originated in China and were of dull brown colouration. They have been selectively bred by the Chinese over the centuries to develop the different colour, scale and body shape morphs we see today.

The Comets, Shubunkins, Fantails, Veiltails, Telescope Moors, Pearl Scale, Orandas, Ranchu, Lionheads, Pom Pom, Bubble Eye and Celestials are only a few of the breeds of this single species available. Those 'Panda' coloured individuals (orange/black or white/black) are in the process of changing colour and may turn completely orange or completely white. It is a natural occurrence that is not very well understood, but is assumed to be related to hormonal changes as the fish matures. Body colouration will become more brilliant from exposure to natural sunlight. Depending on breed, goldfish can attain a length of between 10-20cm, with a lifespan of 20 years.

Choosing a healthy Goldfish

Body colouration should be clear and bright, fins held erect, fish should be alert and swim without undue effort.
Do not choose a fish that sinks or bobs to the surface, have lumps, bumps, or wounds or clamped fins.
Fish should not have a trail of excreta from their vent and they should not be 'sulking' in the corner.
If you have any concerns, consult your veterinarian.

Goldfish care

Goldfish, will thrive if water conditions are kept at their optimum. They prefer temperatures between 16-22°C (although they can tolerate temperatures below 8°C, their immune system is suppressed at temperatures below 15°C), a pH of 7.0-7.5 and a water hardness (GH) of 150ppm. Tests can be performed on your tap water to check its suitability for goldfish. If there are deficiencies, water conditioners are available.

Because goldfish are heavy feeders and produce a lot of waste, efficient aeration and good filtration is needed to maintain water quality. 25-50% partial water change is recommended every 2 weeks using a gravel siphon. If using biological filters, these should be rinsed lightly in a bucket of aquarium water before it gets clogged up or monthly (whichever occurs first).

Goldfish reproduction

This is only possible when fish are sexually mature, at about one year of age. Males develop breeding tubercles on the operculum (gill covers) and along the first ray of the pectoral fins, whilst females are more plump. They are egg scatterers, whereby the male is often seen chasing the females at spring time (coinciding with elevated temperatures after a cool break), the females are stimulated to expel her eggs and the male fertilises them with his milt.

There is no parental care, in fact, these eggs or newly hatched fry may be predated upon by their own parents. Bushy plants or spawning mops should be used along the sides of the tank or pond during these times, and the eggs removed and raised separately.

Goldfish dietary requirements

Goldfish feed at all levels of the aquarium and will accept most foods. However, their diet should contain a relatively higher carbohydrate level. Small floating pellets are best in terms of keeping that tank clean as excess food can be easily removed. The smaller size pellets also ensures that all fish get their share. It is important not to overfeed as it could cause indigestion and/or contaminate the tank. Food intake of a mature fish is about 1-2% of its body weight.

A rule of thumb in goldfish is to feed only as much as the size of its eye. Divide this amount of food into 2-3 portions to be fed over the day. For variety, this diet can be supplemented with, for example, small invertebrates, duck w**d and scalded peas (skin removed). Mammalian fats (e.g. from beef heart, meat, offal) are poorly digested in fish, especially if the water temperature falls below 15°C at any time. All fat must be trimmed off and this type of food should only be used sparingly. Feeding should be limited when water temperatures fall below 8°C because, being homoeothermic (cold-blooded), they are not capable of digesting food.

Compatibility

Goldfish are not aggressive and can be kept with most community fish larger than its mouth. Those with extended fins should not be kept with fish that nip fins (e.g. tiger barbs). And the more bizarre varieties such as the Celestial should be kept with their own variety as it may find locating and competing for food difficult

21/12/2020

Discus Fish Diseases

Throughout the course of their lives, discus fish are likely to fall ill at one time or another. While the disease cannot be completely avoided, keeping water quality in the tank high and providing a healthy, varied diet can help keep discus fish healthy. In the event that discus fish do fall ill, however, it is important that timely action is taken to isolate the sick fish and to begin a treatment regimen. The sooner restorative action is initiated, the more likely discus fish are to recover from their disease.

Discus Fish Diseases

Fin Rot (Bacteriosis Pinnerum)
Ichthyophthirius (Ich)
Columnaris (Cotton Mouth Disease)
Parasites
Dropsy
Tuberculosis
Hexamitiasis
Lateral Line Erosion (Hole in the Head Disease)
How to Treat Discus Fish Diseases?
How to Quarantine New Discus Fish?
Sick Discus Fish Treatment
Fin Rot (Bacteriosis Pinnerum)
Ichthyophthirius (Ich)
Columnaris (Cotton Mouth Disease)
Parasites
Dropsy
Tuberculosis
Hexamitiasis
Lateral Line Erosion (Hole in the Head Disease)

Discus Fish Diseases

When it comes to discus fish diseases, the various afflictions can be divided into two categories: external and internal. Some of the most common external afflictions likely to affect discus fish include various parasites, fungus, rot, and viral infections.



Many of these afflictions present similar symptoms so it is important for the hobbyist to use their best judgment or to seek the help of more experienced hobbyists when diagnosing discus fish diseases. Common internal afflictions include bacterial or protozoan infections like dropsy or hexamitiasis as well as serious conditions like tuberculosis.

Fin Rot (Bacteriosis Pinnerum)

This disease is characterized by the fraying or deterioration of the fins on discus fish. At the onset of this disease, the fins may be discolored, having a white or opaque appearance. Over time, the fins will continue to rot away until little remains. This disease can be caused by a bacterial infection following fin nipping by other fish and it can also be brought on by poor water quality.

Ichthyophthirius (Ich)

Ich is one of the most common freshwater aquarium fish diseases and it is generally characterized by the appearance of tiny white spots covering the body of the fish. In addition to these spots, the body of discus fish may become slimy and the fish may rub itself against rocks and other tank decorations. As the disease progresses, discus fish with ich may lose their appetite and clamp their fins together. This disease is caused by an organism called Ichthyophthirius multifiliis which attaches itself to the skin of discus fish whereupon a cyst develops.

Columnaris (Cotton Mouth Disease)

Columnaris is a fungal affliction caused by a gram-negative rod called Flexibacter columnaris. Symptoms of this disease may include loss of appetite, tail rot and skin lesions in addition to the cottony white growths around the gills and mouth that make this disease easily-identifiable. If not treated promptly, this disease could make it difficult for discus fish to eat or breathe which could quickly become fatal.

Parasites

Discus fish are prone to infection by a number of parasites including Costia and Chilodonella. Costia parasites are flagellates that attach to the skin of fish, causing sores and bleeding. Often a result of poor water conditions, these parasites are common in overcrowded tanks. Chilodonella parasites attach to the skin and gills of discus fish, causing the development of cloudy spots. Fish afflicted with this disease may rub against objects in the tank, become inactive or gasp for air at the water surface.

Dropsy

Dropsy in fish is not a disease so much as a condition brought about by an internal bacterial infection. Symptoms of this condition include swelling or bloating of the body and stomach, scales popping out and bulging eyes. There are several possible causes for dropsy including poor water quality (i.e. high nitrates), kidney damage or an internal bacterial infection like TB.

Tuberculosis

This disease often attacks fish when they are in an already weakened state due to poor water quality or primary infection. Symptoms of this disease include bloating, loss of appetite, open sores, and erratic swimming.

Hexamitiasis

Hexamitiasis is an infection caused by an internal protozoa called Hexamita. This parasite can live in the intestinal tract of discus fish without the fish showing any symptoms for long periods of time. Symptoms of this disease include slimy white f***s, atypical behavior, loss of appetite and emaciation. In discus fish, emaciation will present in the head region and the eyes may darken as well.

Lateral Line Erosion (Hole in the Head Disease)

This disease affects the sensory organs in the face, causing pitting which may look like a hole in the head. The causes for this disease are up for debate but commonly accepted theories point toward dietary and environmental factors. Poor water conditions and stress may contribute to the development of this disease as might a vitamin deficiency. Hexamita, a parasite, was once believed to be the cause of this disease but this theory has been debunked.

Sick Discus Fish
How to Treat Discus Fish Diseases?
The first step in treating any discus fish disease is to quarantine the affected fish. It is recommended that all aquarium hobbyists have an extra tank on hand to use as a quarantine/hospital tank in the event that one of their fish falls ill. If this tank is kept running at all times, the risk of a sick discus fish passing the disease to its tank mates due to delayed transfer to the hospital tank is greatly reduced. It is also wise to keep a separate net on hand that is only used for the hospital tank – it should be disinfected thoroughly after each use.

How to Quarantine New Discus Fish?

Select a tank that is around twenty gallons in.
Fill the tank with as much water from the main tank as possible to fill the hospital tank.
Use a submersible aquarium heater to maintain a stable temperature, making the adjustment easier for sick fish.
Keep the bottom of the tank bare to make cleaning the tank easier.
Install a sponge filter to facilitate mechanical filtration and aeration without producing an overly strong current.
Sink a mesh bag containing gravel from the main tank in the hospital tank in order to keep the nitrogen cycle going in a hospital tank.
Once the sick discus fish has been settled in the hospital tank it is time to start the treatment regimen. The type of treatment may vary depending on the disease and there are generally several treatment options for each disease. One of the most common treatments for aquarium fish diseases, including discus fish diseases, is the salt bath. A salt bath is created by mixing one or two teaspoons of Epsom salt or aquarium salt per ten gallons of water. The sick discus fish is then immersed in the saltwater bath for a period of several hours before being returned to the hospital tank.

Though treatments for various discus fish diseases may vary, any treatment involving the administration of medication should be accompanied by the removal of any activated carbon from the tank filter. The activated carbon in a discus tank filter serves to remove toxins from the water but, in the hospital tank, it may also filter out medication. This is one of the several reasons sponge filters are recommended for use in hospital tanks – they generally do not contain a chemical filtration component and thus will not interfere with treatment regimens.

Sick Discus Fish Treatment

Fin Rot (Bacteriosis Pinnerum)

Treatment options for fin rot include the administration of aquarium salt, Nitrofurazone, Acriflavine or Melafix. Increasing water quality will help with the treatment of fin rot and removing bullies from the tank that frequently engages in fin nipping may help to prevent future outbreaks.

Ichthyophthirius (Ich)

Ich is extremely infectious and treatment should be administered at the first sign of outbreak. Because this disease is so infectious, it is wise to treat the entire tank rather than quarantining a single fish in a hospital tank. Ich can be treated with a salt bath or through the administration of medications like potassium permanganate, Formalin, and Malachite Green. In addition to medications, increasing the water temperature may also help to kill the parasite by speeding up its lifecycle.

Columnaris (Cotton Mouth Disease)

Like most diseases, the best chances of recovery from this disease occur when it is caught early. In addition to dosing the hospital tank with salt, the administration of Melafix can help to heal skin abrasions and clear up fungus.

Parasites

Costia parasites can only survive on fish, not in tank water, and they cannot tolerate temperatures greater than 86° Fahrenheit. To treat for this parasite, increase the temperature in the hospital tank to 92° Fahrenheit for four days. A 3% salt bath as well as the administration of medications like Formalin and Methylene Blue may also be effective. Chilodonella parasites can move from one fish to another in the tank but can also be killed by raising the tank temperature greater than 86° Fahrenheit for a period of five days. A salt bath along with medications like Acriflavine and Malachite Green can also be used to treat this disease.

Dropsy

This condition is often fatal in aquarium fishes because it is difficult to detect and to treat. Salt baths may help to draw fluid out of the body of the affected discus fish, but if the scales begin to stick out, the disease has likely progressed too far for recovery. Some medications such as penicillin, tetracycline and naladixic acid may help to treat this disease.

Tuberculosis

This disease is extremely difficult to treat and, in most cases, is it fatal. Treatment can be a long process involving the administration of medications like Kanamycin along with frequent water changes and dosing with aquarium salt. Because fish afflicted with the disease are likely to be suffering, euthanasia is the preferred option.

Hexamitiasis

The most frequently recommended treatment for this condition is a drug called Metronidazole. This treatment is absorbed through the gills and can also be administered during feeding.

Lateral Line Erosion (Hole in the Head Disease)

In addition to providing a vitamin-rich diet, performing frequent water changes and dosing the tank with salt can help to treat this disease. Raising the temperature in the tank will increase the metabolic rate of discus fish and could also help to speed the healing process. Though Hexamita may not be the main cause of the disease, treating the tank for it by administering Metronidazole may help if all else fails.

10/12/2020

The Most Common Ailments

Today we are going to talk about five of the most common ailments a discus can get and how to cure them. We will also be looking at some of the symptoms and side effects of each ailment so that you can better identify and determine what it has, and how to treat it. Obviously, you’re not going to swallow an oxydoxycycline to cure a headache, so we want to give you the right information and medications so that you get it done properly and everything works right the first time.

Internal Parasites

The first one we’re going to talk about are internal parasites. Internal parasites are primarily cause by Hexamita, small intestinal parasitic diplomonads. hexamita can be caused by many factors, the main causes being stress or the fact that the fish ate something that was loaded internally with a hexamita. The most common symptoms and identifiers that your fish may have this parasite is when the discus is p**ping white, they have a hole in their head or they’re thinning out even though they’re eating.

If you see any of these indicators, the best solution is metronidazole. There are many ways of treating with metronidazole, some will say do a treatment every eight hours for 3 days because the shelf life for metronidazole in water is exactly eight hours. After eight hours, there’s likely nothing in the water left to treat. Here at Wattley Discus we like to take it up 10 days rather than three days every eight hours to be on the safe side and ensure no parasites return. To administer this treatment, we use one gram of Metronidazole for every 20 gallons of water. You can mix it into a cup of water outside of the fish tank, and then pour it right in.

If your discus is eating, then what you want to do is hold some of it into the food and give it to them for 10 days straight. This will clean them out and it will prevent any hatchlings, or anything being born that is immune to the medication while it’s in the reproduction stages. It is important to be on the safe side when deciding how long you want to administer this treatment for because if you take it to five days and then the six day they started to hatch, then you’re back to square one.

Very rarely do Discus fish get tape worms or capillaria, which are other forms of internal parasites. Those two must be treated with praziquantel, but we aren’t going to get into that here because hardly ever comes up.



Cloudy Eyes

Another of the most common ailments that we often hear about is cloudy eyes. The number one reason for this is that they experienced some sort of physical trauma to the eye. Maybe the fish were arguing and one attacked the others head, they scratch themselves on something, or got startled.

Furthermore, if your tanks Ph balance all the sudden crashes, this will also cloud the eyes. Luckily, the eye has a protective layer that will take the burden so the entire eye is not lost. In most cases, a little bit of salt and a tiny stress coat from API that has Aloe Vera in it will help get this resolved and you’ll start to see it heal and the white circle will start to disappear. If you don’t catch this early enough, however; it is possible that the fish may lose its eye.



Fin Rot

Next up is fin rot. Now, to preface this let’s consider a normal external bacterial infection on a human. If there’s an external bacterial infection, the first thing that’s going to be affected are the extremities, your fingers, hands, etc. It’s not going to go straight through your skin and hit your liver. It is the same for Discus fish and that’s why you start getting that fin rot. If that happens, it is usually caused by a high organic load.

The only way you’re truly going to be able to determine this is with a microscope, and for somebody to analyze your water. We’re not going to get that technical. If you see the fin rot coming on and the fish starts to look like a sunflower because it’s starting to lose its fins, it means that there’s a buildup of anaerobic bacteria in your gravel or somewhere that’s now coming out of the gravel and attaching itself to your fish.

In this case, we need to use Oxytetracycline. Keep an eye out for this on our website, as we are working on adding it to our selection soon. This is the best way to resolve cloudy eyes and keep your tanks clean. Make sure that if you’ve got any kind of wood or rocks in your tank, clean very well around it because these things are breeding ground for all kinds of bacteria.



Bloating

The last ailment we are going to be talking about today is bloating. Bloating is a common ailment that happens even to us. What causes this is when you eat something and it spoils inside your stomach before your digestive system can break it down, and as a result fills up the stomach with gas. The number one cure for this in discus fish is Epsom salts.

When administering, you need to use one tablespoon for every 40 gallons of water. Epsom salts do not go away once added to the tank and will stay in the water until you change it, so you don’t need to replace it unless you do a water change. Once you put the Epsom salts in you need to bring your temperature up to 86 or 88 degrees because this will speed up their metabolic rate and get everything out of them. Going back to our example of bloating in humans, Epsom salts is basically just ex-lax for fish. Be prepared after administering the salt to your tank because it will make the fish p**p beyond recognition.

Now, the second thing you need to do after the Epsom salt, if you get them to relieve themselves, is you want to add a mild treatment of metronidazole just in case some hexamita developed from the fish’s excrement, so you don’t end up with internal parasites.



Conclusion

These are some of the most common ailments you will find in discus fish. We experience these problems here at Wattley Discus daily and know what it is going to take to get the results you want. Hopefully you are maintaining your tank and you’re never going to see any of these, but if you do, reference this article for some quick remedies.

If you have any questions, just keep them coming the way you have been! I realized that we only go into general detail here, and that’s because we don’t want to make these articles too long. If you ever have any specific questions though, we are here to help. We truly appreciate the fact that so many of you are sending us thank you notes on Facebook, by email and are calling us up. We thank you and appreciate the fact that you’re reading our blog and we will continue to bring you even more helpful content in the future!

06/12/2020

Angelfish Diseases, Parasites & Remedies

An important part of knowing how to care for your angelfish is being aware of the signs and symptoms of the various angelfish diseases that can affect your angelfish.

Parasites, bacteria, fungus and various viral infections can all affect your angelfish. Of course, the first line of defense against diseases is offering proper tank conditions for your fish.

Good water conditions coupled with a varied and balanced diet can go a long way in ensuring that your angelfish develop a strong immune system that can ward off many diseases.

In my experience – and I’m sure many other aquarists can back me up on this – prevention is the best medicine there is, but even with the best prevention diseases may still strike sometimes.

Mediavine
When this does happen, it helps to be aware of how each disease manifests itself, so you can spring into action and offer appropriate treatment for your angelfish.

Here are the most common angelfish diseases, parasites, and remedies that you can apply to prevent further damage or the death of your angelfish:

Angelfish Dropsy
Dropsy appears as a result of an underlying infection caused by a bacterium that’s normally available in aquariums but causes problems if the immune system of your angelfish becomes compromised.

As a result of the infection, kidney function can become compromised, which leads to fluid build-up in inside the fish.

Symptoms of angelfish dropsy include:

Bloated appearance and protruding eyes;
Scales sticking out;
Rapid gill breathing;
Loss of appetite and lethargy.
As for the remedies to angelfish dropsy, the outlooks aren’t good. If you notice the disease in its advanced stages, there isn’t anything you can do to save the lives of angelfish that are affected.

If you manage to catch the disease in its incipient stages, adding antibacterial medication to their food and treating angelfish in a separate tank, which contains Epsom salts (⅛ teaspoons to 5 gallons ratio) can help draw out some of the excess fluid.

Angelfish Ich / Ick
Angelfish Ich or White Spot Disease appears as tiny outbreaks of white spots dotted across the body of the fish.

The leading cause of ich in angelfish is sudden changes in water temperature and stress.

Alternatively, introducing plants or other fish that already carry the protozoa in a tank with bad water conditions can also lead to Ich in your other angelfish.

Without treatment the disease carries a high mortality rate, therefore, immediate treatment is required.

Symptoms of angelfish Ick include:

White spots on the body of your angelfish;
Fish rubbing against objects in the tank trying to remove the spots;
Folded fins;
Difficulty breathing if spots are located on gills;
Loss of appetite and disoriented swimming.
Remedies for Ich include:

Anti-parasitic medication;
Raising water temperature to 86°F;
Adding aquarium salt to the water, which can disrupt the fluid regulation if Ich.
When adding antiparasitic medication into the tank, it’s best to remove the carbon filter, because it may absorb the medication.

Angelfish Fin Rot
Angelfish fin rot is a bacterial infection that commonly appears in freshwater aquariums where water conditions are precarious. It attacks the fins and slowly works its way to the base.

Angelfish fin rot can be caused by Flavobacterium Columnare, Pseudomonas, or Aeromonas, all of which may be present in tanks, which aren’t properly cleaned.

Symptoms of angelfish fin rot include:

Fins looking like they’ve been shredded;
Difficulty swimming if disease is advanced;
Milky-white areas if disease spreads to other areas.
Remedies for this disease should involve a complex approach:

Assessment of water conditions, followed by tank cleaning and multiple 20-50% water changes;
Removing fish that nip at the fins of other fish, rehoming fish if tank is overstocked;
Antibiotic treatment.
Unfortunately, once the infection damages the fins of your angelfish, the affected tissue cannot be regrown or regenerated, therefore, I recommend doing your best to prevent the disease from spreading by following a strict treatment plan.

Angelfish Velvet Disease (Gold Dust Disease)
Velvet Disease is an infection caused by the parasite Piscinoodinum, which attacks the body of the fish forming a cyst in the natural slime coating of the angelfish and then erupting through the skin.

Symptoms of velvet disease in angelfish:

Body is coated in gold (sometimes green or brown) cysts;
Excess slime production;
Rapid breathing;
Rubbing against objects in the tank;
Loss of appetite;
General lethargy;
Fins kept at side.
Secondary infections because of the weakened immune system of the fish are also common, therefore, the symptoms of velvet disease can be accompanied by symptoms of other infections as well.

Remedies should be applied immediately as you notice symptoms because the disease is extremely contagious, and it can result in the death of your fish.

Treatment options that can help include:

Quarantining fish in a hospital tank, which is blacked-out (cover it with a blanket) for 3 weeks and temperature is raised to 82-86°F;
Add aquarium salt to the tank (dissolve aquarium salt in 0.5-1 gallon container of warm water, add 2.5 teaspoons of aquarium salt for every gallon of water in your aquarium);
Medication added to the tank (e.g. formalin, acriflavin, methylene blue, copper sulfate).
If your angelfish respond to the treatment, they can be transferred from the hospital tank into a suitable aquarium.

Angelfish Hexamita (Hole-in-the-Head Disease)
Also known as Hole-in-the-Head disease, Hexamita is caused by the rapid multiplication of a parasite that’s normally present in freshwater aquariums. Untreated, the disease can cause the death of your angelfish.

Symptoms of angelfish hexamita:

Loss of appetite;
White, stringy f***s;
Lesions on the head;
Loss of color.
Remedies for angelfish hexamita that can help:

Quarantining infected with in a hospital tank;
Raising water temperatures gradually until it reaches 90°F;
Treating the aquarium with MetroPlex.
Angelfish Gill Flukes
Gill Flukes in angelfish refer to parasitic infections that affect the gills and skin of your fish. Outbreaks are usually caused by stress and improper tank conditions.

Parasites can burrow into the skin of fish and create ulcers and infections.

Symptoms of angelfish gill flukes:

Gills look like they’ve been shredded or chewed;
Excess mucus formation;
Breathing difficulties;
Rubbing against objects;
Red skin.
Remedies for angelfish gill flukes you should try:

Treatment with anti-worm medication Praziquantel.
Angelfish Anchor Worms
Anchor Worms aren’t technically worms. They’re small crustaceans that embed themselves into the scales and flesh of your fish.

Symptoms that can help identify angelfish anchor worm disease:

Redness, ulcers, inflammation at the spot where the crustaceans embedded into the body of your fish;
Red or white-green worms at the base of fins;
Difficult breathing and rubbing against objects.
Remedies that can be helpful:

Potassium permanganate bath to kill immature anchor worms that haven’t embedded yet;
Use tweezers to remove any embedded anchor worm;
Treat the aquarium with Dimilin to kill larvae and any adult anchor worm that hasn’t embedded;
Treat aquarium with aquarium salt.
To avoid future infestations, be very careful when adding new fish to the tank or adding plants to the tank as both can carry the worms.

Angelfish Swollen Bellies – Big Stomach
Angelfish with swollen bellies or angelfish with a big stomach may be having symptoms of dropsy, which — as I mentioned at the section about angelfish dropsy — is an infection that damages the kidney function of angelfish and causes fluid build-up inside the fish.

Besides dropsy, there are other conditions that can cause angelfish to have a big stomach or a bloated appearance:

Spawning – when the angelfish female is preparing to lay her eggs, her belly will have a swollen appearance;
Poor digestion – the narrow bodies of angelfish makes them susceptible to constipation caused by poor digestion (soaking dried flakes in castor oil or glycerol, or feeding them mashed peeled peas can ease indigestion);
Sign of kidney problems – a cyst, an infection or lesions can also cause angelfish bellies to swell;
Internal parasites – various internal parasites can also cause a bloated appearance.
Therefore, angelfish with swollen bellies may not necessarily be ill (e.g. they may be just preparing to spawn), but it’s important to monitor the situation and see if there are further signs of disease.

If you’re in doubt about what may be causing a swollen belly in your angelfish, make sure to consult a specialist.

Angelfish Mouth Fungus Disease
Angelfish mouth fungus is caused by Flavobacterium columnare, which is a gram-negative bacterium that’s present in aquariums and under normal circumstances, it doesn’t affect fish.

However, since they’re opportunistic bacteria, they’ll enter the body of your angelfish via wounds and establish itself in the wound of angelfish with weakened immune systems.

Symptoms of angelfish mouth fungus include:

Fluffy off-white cotton-like threads at the face, gills or mouth;
Sores and lesions in advanced cases;
Ragged fins;
Rapid breathing;
Excess mucus production on head, gills.
Remedies that you can try to treat angelfish mouth fungus disease:

Antibiotic or antibacterial medication (kanamycin and phenoxyethanol at 100 mg/l of water for 7 days;
Adding salt or sodium chloride to the tank (1oz of salt per gallon of water) can help prevent the disease.
Keeping optimal water parameters and regularly cleaning the tank can also help prevent this disease.

Angelfish Virus Infection
Also known as angelfish AIDS, the angelfish virus infection is a devastating and virulent infection that can cause the death of your angelfish in a couple of days after infection.

It’s highly contagious and it’s easily spread from one fish to another.

Symptoms of angelfish virus infection:

Weakness, loss of energy;
Fins folded against the body;
Excess amount of slime production;
Fish are usually at the bottom of the tank;
Nose slightly pointed up.
Remedies:

Outlooks aren’t good for fish that were infected by the virus, and they usually die off in a couple of days, however, some remedies you can try:

Quarantine infected fish in a hospital tank (no lights, sponge filter and UV sterilizer);
Treat tank with Seachem Para Guard for 3 days, perform a 10% water change between each treatment;
Add Mardel Maracyn to the tank to prevent secondary diseases.
If your angelfish survives the angelfish virus infection, you can move them to an aquarium, however, not with healthy fish as they may still carry the virus for at least 6 months.

Angelfish Popeye Disease
Angelfish Popeye disease is an infection that causes fluid build-up behind the eyes of your fish. It can be triggered by precarious water conditions and even though it carries a very low risk of fatality, it can damage the eye and even cause it to fall out.

Symptoms of Popeye disease in angelfish:

Protruding, cloudy eyes;
Ruptured eyes that lead to loss of vision.
Remedies:

Performing a 50% water change 4-5 days in a row to ensure optimal water conditions;
Adding Epsom salt to the water at 1-3 teaspoons/gallon;
Antibiotics mixed into food and medications that work for fin rot disease can also help.
Angelfish Cotton Wool Disease
This disease can be caused by a variety of factors like overcrowded tank, low water temperatures or poor water conditions.

Symptoms of angelfish cotton wool disease:

Translucent layer that’s expanding on the skin of the fish;
Edges of the body may appear bloody (like blood is oozing through the skin).
Remedies for cotton wool disease in angelfish depend on how advanced the disease is. If it’s in an advanced stage, euthanasia is the most compassionate thing you can do at this point.

If you’ve managed to catch the disease early on, you should address the environmental factors in the aquarium (cleaning the tank, performing water changes, rehoming fish in overstocked tanks).

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Once these things are taken care of, you should add marine salt to the tank (4 teaspoons/gallon) and treat water with potassium permanganate.

Final Thoughts
These are the most common angelfish diseases that can be caused by bacteria, viruses, or parasites in the tank.

Because some angelfish diseases are so difficult to treat, prevention is key. That said, you should focus on keeping water parameters at optimal levels, performing water changes and tank maintenance on the regular.

Moreover, make sure you feed your fish a healthy diet that meets their nutritional requirements and strengthens their immune system.

And lastly, always be very careful with new fish that you’re introducing to the tank (always quarantine them first!) and with live foods and plants that you’re adding to the tank.

If you’re careful about these things, you can minimize the occurrence of diseases and make sure that the immune system of your angelfish can put up a good fight in case diseases still find their way into the tank.

Thanks for Smart aquarium guide for information