Grumpy Old Veterans Balls

22/06/2023

1.0 Pastel Hypo up for eviction.

22/06/2023

1.0 Hypo up for eviction.

22/06/2023

1.0 Asphalt up for eviction.

22/06/2023

1.0 Barnhart line black pastel Asphalt up for eviction.

22/06/2023

0.1 Barnhart line black pastel yellow belly up for eviction.

29/12/2022

Last eviction notice for tonight, more to follow.

29/12/2022

More evictions.

29/12/2022

Also up for eviction.

29/12/2022

Eviction Time

27/08/2022

0.1 super pastel red stripe lesser 100% het clown 50% het pied
1.0 red stripe lesser 100% het clown 50% het pied
1.0 pastel red stripe clown 50% het pi we d

06/08/2022

1.0 Freeway.

05/07/2022

Up for eviction.

Het clown
0.1 fire.
0.1 blade.
0.1 blade red stripe.

DH axanthic clown
0.1 bumblebee.
0.1 spider.
1.2 pastel.
1.1 super pastel.

1.0 Red stripe spotnose.

02/05/2022

Very upset mom. 8 eggs from freeway x barnhart line black pastel YBc. Hope this is the season I prove out what part of the YB complex she has.....

25/10/2021

25/11/2020

Remaining 2020 hatchlings

Male:
2 Pastel Double het SK Axanthic Clowns
1 Spider Double het SK Axanthic Clown
1 Normal Double het SK Axanthic Clown
1 YBc
1 Blade Het Clown
2 leopard Het Clown

Female:
2 Red Stripe Barnhart line Black Pastel
Red Stripe YBc

02/10/2020

3rd Clutch of the season included twins from Barnhart Line Black Pastel Yellow Belly complex x Red Stripe

02/10/2020

4th clutch after it's first shed.
Paring was Leopard x Blade Clown

13/08/2020

Group and highlight pictures of the double het clown SK Axanthic clutch, can't wait to see them after their first shed

10/08/2020

2nd clutch of the season pipped from Bumblee SK Axanthic x Pastel Clown pairing. For sre hit Killerbee, Bumblee, Spider, Super Pastel double hets. Can't wait until they are out and have first shed.

20/07/2020

Third clutch for the season has just dropped. 8 healthy eggs from a Barnhardt line Black Pastel x Red Stripe.

18/07/2020

I was directed to an interesting article today: https://www.mdpi.com/2076-2615/10/3/413/htm #. I am completely used to dealing with the tub vs tank, and other such debates that rage through the pet trade. What stood out this time was the person that confronted me with this "research paper" missed a few salient points. Unfortunately, science is all too often being co opted these days for political or ideological means. Most times one need look no further than the acknowledgement section to find who funded the research highlight the overt bias. Other times the wording in the abstract can give you a fair clue. In cases like this you also get a third indicator, what isn't discussed.
To begin with "environmental enrichments" reeks of anthropomorphism. They authors clearly understand nothing about ball pythons, they are not a burrowing or arboreal species. They are opportunists that take over or utilize abandoned burrows. They next claim that the enclosures are too small based on the recommendations of the RSPCA, which again does not take natural environment into account. The RSPCA guidelines can be found here: https://www.rspca.org.uk/documents/1494939/0/Royal+Python+Care+Sheet+%28PDF+321KB%29.pdf/c13c4cc7-de89-cd77-f3b3-a946f54e6c9c?t=1556101346950 I would challenge you to find, in the wild, a natural rodent burrow in Africa that maintains a straight 4' line, (120 cm recommended, 2.54 cm = 1" 47.2"). Ball pythons are a mostly sedentary nocturnal species, they only leave their burrows for a few hours at night to hunt, and then return to digest their prey if they were successful. The chances of finding them stretched out basking in the sun are slim to none. Consequently, as they are still ectotherms, they will move around within the burrow to maintain the optimal temperature which can change throughout the day, albeit minimally given appropriate depth. There is a reason that, most in the hobby will stress, looking at your husbandry is the first thing to look at when confronted by a ball python that refuses to eat. Security, temperature, and humidity are essential for a ball python to thrive. Without these not only will the species not eat they will not breed. Without the proper temperature to digest, and security to feel safe from predation they will not risk hunting. That is why these are used as indicators of maintaining a proper environment for them. This is not some capricious attempt to stuff poor suffering animals in tiny boxes, this is something that has been learned over several decades and through observation of behaviour in the wild.
Now the issue they raise regarding expos, again would be minimized with a little knowledge of, or honesty in their knowledge of, reptile biology. Since the paper is specifically targeted at ball pythons let's address ball python metabolism. Most reptiles, ball pythons included, have much slower metabolism. This means they have evolved to survive long periods with no food and little water. In fact mammals can survive for 8 to 10 hours without liquids. The authors frame the discussion in order to ignore what happens in the hours after the expo ends for the day. They lead the reader to assume that these snakes are left under intense hot lamps, another fallacy, and no water for the duration of the expo. While, they could do so with little to no harm being done, I do not know a single breeder that does this. In the past, prior to LED lighting becoming ubiquitous, an argument could possibly be made if you ignored the fact that these events are usually air conditioned to a temperature below optimal range for ball pythons, and lamps helped offset this.
A couple of more valid points that could have been raised would be the inadvertent spread of disease and parasites due to lack of proper sanitation procedures at these shows. Unfortunately, mites happen, short of full inspection of all animals before being admitted to the grounds there is always going to be a risk of these migrating demons. Fortunately, the last expo I went, my first in a few years, I did note that there were several breeders that were requiring attendees use hand sanitizer before handling snakes, and again before taking out a different one.
Finally the discussion regarding how they are displayed, in regards to size and openness, of displays at least has some merit and potential for improvement. Having seen both sides of the spectrum, and being fully cognizant of how we harp of the basic husbandry for the health and well being of the snakes in our care, this is definitely an area that I think merits some discussion and possibly some modification. Display cases are not ideal for a ball python, that is not something I think anyone can argue. However, the long term harm I do not believe is that substantial considering the, overall, short period this occurs. Regardless of whether you purchase a ball python from a local store, online, or from an expo the snakes is boxed and transported going through the same stresses. New owners are advised in all cases to put their new ball python in quarantine and leave them alone for at least a week, other than to check water to allow them to adjust. It is not perfect, I freely admit, however until a reasonable ration alternative comes about it is not likely to change.
In the end I see more harm done through amphopomorphizing reptiles, and other pets, than any of the issues raised in this paper. As mentioned earlier ball pythons are a nocturnal mostly sedentary species, that is NOT arboreal. Yes, when they are smaller they are occasionally found in trees hunting birds, yes they can climb, that does not mean that they should be, especially as they get older. If they are zipping around their enclosure, or basking on a tall branch directly under a heat lamp, there is something wrong with your husbandry. They are not laying out in the middle of the day because they enjoy the sunlight, odds pretty much guarantee the temps are off. They are not trying to find a way out of their enclosure to sneak off for a night of drinking and cards with their buddies. It isn't their version of a jogging on a treadmill, they are displaying behaviour that indicates a problem, usually environmental. They are amazing animals, but the fact is they have the emotional range of a turnip, they simply do not have the ability feel the emotions people attribute to them. Yes they are capable of learning, to some degree. From the point they hatch they learn that we are not predators, they can become desensitized learn to accept being handled as they learn we are not a threat. In some cases to their detriment, I have a few that, through frequent handling, no longer take the precaution of wrapping the end of their tales as I hold them above my lap as they have learned that in that context they are in no danger from falling. As soon as I take them out of the room that they are handled in the tails lock on tight again.
As to the tub vs tank debate, dealers choice. I know what I prefer, but as long as the needs of the snake are being met do your own thing. Realizing other than their basic requirements anything else you do is for you and not the snake it's your call. As long as you are not abusing or neglecting its needs everyone else that has an "opinion" can take a flying leap.

12/07/2020

Anthropomorphism: the showing or treating of animals, gods, and objects as if they are human in appearance, character, or behavior

12/07/2020

Proven 1000+ gram Yellow Belly male
2.0 Orange Belly
0.2 Orange Belly
1.0 Ultra (Yellow Belly x Orange Belly) Ivory

25/06/2020

Third clutch of the season is about 3 weeks away. Pairing was Barnhart line Black Pastel x Red Stripe. Fresh out of prelay shed.

25/06/2020

Second clutch of the season is down and in the incubator. Pairing was a Pastel SK Axanthic Spider x Pastel Clown. First round of the het army working towards Axanthic Clowns. 10 Perfect eggs with strong veins.

25/06/2020

First clutch of the season, all very healthy, produced 2 Ivories and 6 Yellowbellys. Male proved out to be Yellowbelly, unfortunately, setting Freeway project back a year. However, all but one are 1 meal away from being ready to find new homes.