25/02/2023
Socialize, don’t traumatize!
Many times in the quest to ‘socialize’ their puppy, people overlook important issues that can be a danger or detrimental instead of beneficial.
It is important, of course, to get your pup out and about, to see new places, people and things. Socialization should focus on a variety of things, not just other puppies or dogs, but include things your puppy and then dog will encounter in their lives. If you do a lot of camping or travel, get your pup out for a few trips. If you plan to leave your pup at home while you go to work, make sure that’s routine from day one. These outings should be low key, relaxing and fun for both of you, or even boring - boring is fine too. The important thing is to avoid negative or scary (to your puppy) experiences. Early trauma can create long term issues in your puppy.
The other important thing to keep in mind is young puppies can get sick easily. They are building an immune system and can be affected by viruses, parasites and germs much more than an adult dog can. When taking your pup out, avoid areas that are full of dogs, like boarding kennels, dog parks, animal shelters, pet stores that sell animals, vet clinics and so on. You can of course take your pup to the vet, but for the first few months carry them in and keep them off the floor, or double check with the clinic that there hasn’t been any sick dogs there before you.
You can of course (and should) take your pup to new neighbourhoods, playground areas, shopping center parking lots, pet friendly stores, friend’s houses and so on. A blanket, high value chew item and an outside table at a coffee shop can be a perfect experience for a puppy, even if they fall asleep and don’t meet anyone.
Things to avoid:
Dog parks. The idea is a good one, however keep in mind they can be full of unsocialized, uncontrolled dogs and owners. Fights, viruses and parasites are common.
Dog daycares or kennels that aren’t kept in good condition or allow dogs to play unsupervised. Dogs in playgroups should always have a staff member IN each yard with them at all times, to monitor and refocus the dogs before fights break out or play gets too rough. Fences and gates should be in good working order, not patched or held together, so that dogs cannot escape or get injured.
Training classes that are held on surfaces not easily sanitized, or have slippery or hard flooring. Carpets are soft but can harbor parasites and viruses as they cannot be easily cleaned between classes. Hard slippery surfaces are hard on growing puppy’s joints and can cause injuries.
Strange dogs or dogs that aren’t good with puppies. This can be a lot of dogs, even your friend or family member’s pets. Use a baby gate at first to see how they interact before trying a face to face greeting.
Strange people, groups of kids, unusual things IF your pup finds that too much for them. You should NEVER ‘force’ your pup to socialize with dogs or people if they’re not wanting to do so. If they are hiding under your chair, or behind you, ask the person to move back and give your puppy space. Let your pup observe at a distance and try again later, or try a less scary version first and work up as your pup gains confidence (if they’re unsure of a larger bolder dog, try a calmer dog first and so on).
Above all you do not want your pup to feel they have to protect themselves, or that you aren’t going to help them when they’re unsure. Tools such as free play, long line work, and other training can help you learn to ‘read’ your pup’s cues and work through issues while building their confidence as well as their bond with their favorite human.
