All Basics - Dog Training

04/09/2025

Here is my article on STRANGER DANGER!
(Stranger reactive dogs)

Dogs that are reactive to strangers is a very common problem- many dogs don’t trust their human to keep them safe, so the dog is forced to deal with the situation in their own way.

Usually in this situation once the human starts consistently advocating for the dog, most (if not all) of the stranger reactivity stops.

Being an advocate for your dog is just as important as being their caretaker. Advocating protects the dog (and others around them) from the stress and potentially dangerous actions as a result of the dog’s fearful behavior.
Just one mishap can set your training and trust the dog has in you back by months.

I would never expect a “Do Not Pet” vest to stop a stranger- in fact, the vest often encourages certain individuals to go out of their way to touch the dog because they have everything to gain and nothing to loose. They feel they are entitled, and get a big ego boost because they did something they were directly told not to.
If the dog bites the stranger it will most often be the dog and owner who are penalized, having a “Do Not Pet” vest on the dog won’t hold up as enough evidence with authorities- or in court.

THINGS YOU CAN TRY
Create space- I train my dogs a verbal cue to get behind me, this allows me to physically block the oncoming stranger if needed.

Train the BETWEEN (or MIDDLE) command to your dog, most people are hesitant to put their hands on a dog’s head when it is right below a stranger’s crotch! 😏

I stand up straight with my hand facing palm out towards the stranger (like a traffic cop), solid eye contact, and a very firm “NO!”, this will stop most.

Saying a firm verbal LEAVE IT to your dog and calmly walking away from the stranger is often an effective option. Never run away, you may be seen as prey.

SUGGESTIONS
Always pay attention and be on the alert for potential issues.
I’m never on my cell phone when I am handling my dog in public.
No to music on earbuds as well.
Be hyper vigilant to your surroundings, similar to driving a vehicle- watch for a safe way out. Rearrange your route of travel if needed to avoid conflict.

It’s imperative to put your dog’s safety above feeling uncomfortable about a biased opinion from a stranger.
It’s okay to come across as unfriendly or rude to a stranger who is being disrespectful. Entitled strangers don’t feel bad for ignoring your boundaries, embarrassed for being intentionally rude to you, or sad for putting you and your dog in a dangerous position- often very much the opposite.

My dogs are also all properly muzzle conditioned so they are comfortable wearing one, strangers are MUCH less apt to want to touch a muzzled dog.
You can tell people the dog is wearing a muzzle for it’s own protection, not for theirs. Even good dogs wear muzzles.
I have a detailed article on how to train proper muzzle conditioning at my blog.

Think about this for a moment, it may help you get a better mindset for advocating. What if your dog was actually your human baby, and a stranger was going to do something threatening to your baby.
How would you feel?

LEARNING TO ADVOCATE
Start practicing in front of the mirror- stand up proudly, attitude is everything. Focus on being calm and confident.
Practice until it becomes muscle memory. It’s hard at first- but the more you do it, the easier it becomes.
You can even reward yourself with some special tasty treats when practicing, pieces of chocolate work for me!

WHAT TO SAY WHEN STRANGERS CONTINUE TO ADVANCE
“NO”is a complete sentence, if that is all you want to say, then that’s fine.
“Sorry, but he doesn't like to be petted.”
“Not while he is working, Ma’am/ Sir”.
“Please do not approach my dog”
“No, he is in training”.
“Please give us space”
“Sorry- she is old and is in pain, so please don’t touch her”

Once you begin feeling more confident, start practicing with your friends and family members. You can have them give you honest feedback as well, if you feel that would be helpful. Then once you have mastered that, start applying it in real life scenarios.

When it comes to your dog , he looks up to you to advocate and protect him. Doing so will help build a greater bond with your dog. Other than your Veterinarian and staff, no one “needs” to touch your dog.

And yes, I have had to physically push a person back away from a client’s dog I was handling when the person repeatedly insisted on forcing her hand into the reactive dog’s face “to say Hi”. Believe me- the alternative of the woman getting bitten would have been much, much worse for everyone involved- especially for the dog.

Personal dogs are NOT public property.

Advocate for your dog like their life depends on it, for someday it well may.

More articles like Pup Basic Manners Training, Building Engagement With Your Dog, Senior Dog Care, Training Recall, Deterrents for Aggressive Loose Dogs, and Structured Walks are available at my blog- which is open to the public, and free of charge.
❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

25/07/2025

Here is my article on DOGS AND TOXINS.

There are many things dogs shouldn’t eat, other than chocolate. Speaking of - the darker the chocolate, the higher the concentration of cocoa and danger there is to dogs eating it.

Certain things will make dogs sick, while many others will quickly kill them. A tiny dog is more apt to have a higher reaction than a larger breed to the same amount of a substance. Some dogs are also more overly sensitive to certain toxins than others.

Pups are more likely to be taste testing and putting everything in their mouths, so they are especially vulnerable and must be kept well supervised.

The toxins list is massive, so I will just mention a few common ones to watch for.

Many plants- both house plants and outdoor varieties, are highly toxic if eaten. The entire plant Lilly of the Valley is extremely dangerous- it can actually leach toxins from its roots into water, and make that poisonous as well. Sago Palm, Azaleas, Christmas Cactus, Poppies, and Foxglove all should be avoided around dogs. Dogs will sometimes even eat to***co and ma*****na, which can often require a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic.

Cocoa mulch is very toxic, and dogs will seek it out because they love the taste.

The seeds from peaches, cherries and plums are all toxic.

Radiator fluid is very sweet tasting, and dogs will drink it readily right off the ground, again highly toxic. Some companies have now added a bitter taste to their products, which should decrease the number of animals (and children) killed from drinking radiator fluid.

Mouse bait, which is often made with grain and peanut butter - even in very small amounts can be deadly if the dog isn’t treated immediately after ingesting it.

Sugar free products, especially ones containing Xylitol like some peanut butters and gum can be deadly.

Common household foods like raisins, yeast dough, onions, alcohol, macadamia nuts, grapes, caffeine, and high salt/high sugary foods need to be stored away safely.

A dog eating too much meat fat can quickly develop pancreatitis.

Many human prescription medications are a problem as well- while some dogs will snag a bottle and chew it open, others will find pills on the floor and quickly eat them.

Seconds literally count when a dog has swallowed a toxin. I keep food grade 3% hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting in dogs, and ToxiBan- which slows absorption of toxins. These all have my current dog’s dosage written right on the bottles, and I also have a large syringe readily available with them. It’s important to pre condition your dogs to accept liquid from a syringe, small amounts of low salt bone broth works well, most dogs love the taste.

More articles like Pup Basic Manners Training, Car Sickness/Anxiety in Dogs, Senior Dog Care, Noise Phobias and Dogs, and Adolescent To Adult- Problem Solving are available at my blog, which is open to the public and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

30/06/2025

Here is my article on BUILDING ENGAGEMENT WITH YOUR DOG.

Some dogs genetically have low pack drive, are extremely independent, and would prefer to just do their own thing (other than being fed, of course), without humans. Others have lost their trust in people- before I got him my current Australian Cattle Dog “Kenji”, was one of those dogs.

Doing engagement techniques with your dog will help with bonding- as well as making them more resilient to stress. The dog will learn coping skills to recover faster from setbacks, have less anxiety/fear, and maintain a more positive attitude towards life in general.

Dogs pick up very quickly on our inner emotional and physical energy- if we are happy and enthusiastic, the dog is much more likely to react favorably. Canines also often imitate other members in their pack, including the humans.

Sometimes having high value food inside an interactive toy will help the dog gain interest in playing with the toy. This can be transferred over to utilizing the toy so that the dog plays with you.

Luring: The purpose of luring is to increase prey drive in the dog, and bonding/engagement with the owner. It’s also great exercise for the dog, and helps satisfy their need to bite. While my methods do increase prey drive, it’s in a controlled manner in which yes and no are very clear to the dog. Engage the dog’s prey drive by tugging a fuzzy toy along the ground- move it rapidly backwards, forwards, and in a zig zag pattern. The dog MUST be able to eventually catch the lure during the game. I use and recommend the Chase ‘N Pull toy. A homemade soft toy well attached to a strong string with a PVC pole will often work too. I utilize the “OUT” or “DROP” command- which is to completely disengage from whatever is in their mouths, or whatever they are looking at. My blog contains a detailed article on “OUT”. *Younger pups should not be encouraged to jump up to get the lure, as their joints may not be sealed yet. Used in moderation dragging the lure along the ground for them to chase, and light tugging is fine for most pups. Light tugging should be done so that the toy and pup are kept horizontally, as tugging upward could cause damage to a young pup’s neck or spine.

To build engagement always stop playing BEFORE the dog wants to stop. Even if the dog only plays for 30 seconds, stop at 29 seconds. Be consistent with this, and very gradually add more duration. Results with this method are astonishing.

Dogs who have many toys always around never really learn to appreciate them. I get one special toy, maybe leather/sheepskin/fur whatever the dog really loves- that only comes out for a very limited time, and only when he is engaging with you.

Try playing with the toy by yourself- have the dog tied nearby without other distractions, so they see you playing. Holding the dog back builds drive, it makes them WANT to engage in the fun.

Many dog’s like balls, especially ones that squeak when bitten. To build engagement, try bouncing a ball against a wall, and get very excited about the play. Again, dog is on tie back with nothing better to do than watch. You can also try having another dog (or several), that gets really excited over play in front of the tied dog, this can really help build their desire to join in.

A tug toy is fabulous for building engagement! All dogs get a dopamine rush from biting, some breeds enjoy it much more than others. All dogs should be trained the verbal “OUT” or “DROP” command, and this should be used several times during tug play. Immediately reward a fast “OUT” by continuing the game a bit longer. I use the word “DONE” so the dog understands when the game is finally over. When used consistently this word also works as an “OFF” switch for the dog. A solid “OUT” command can be a lifesaver if the dog has something dangerous in its mouth. * I don’t recommend playing tug with a serious resource guarder- as they may choose to bite you instead, win the tug, and reinforce their bad habit.

I highly recommend using the dog’s daily meals as rewards for training, this is one of the best things you can do for bonding with your dog. Hand feeding gives “value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view, instead of giving the food bowl value. Dogs will take for granted what is given freely, controlling the dog’s most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training. I always set the dog up to win, none of the dogs I’ve worked with have ever missed a daily meal training this way.

Recall on a longline, using pieces of the dog’s meal. Let the dog move about in a mildly distractingly area, then call the dog’s name. When they come towards you, step back a couple feet, stay animated and exciting, then reward the dog when they reach you.

Confidence building exercises are also excellent. Luring the dog by hand with high grade food rewards up/under/over/through all sorts of safe natural and man made objects helps with engagement, as well as building trust and bonding with your dog.

Have the dog checked by a Veterinarian if it seems less active than it should be, as low thyroid is common in dogs. I’ve found the in-house Veterinary thyroid tests are very good for cats, but not as reliable on dogs. There is a much more accurate out lab dog thyroid test available which is significantly more costly, but if the dog is showing low thyroid symptoms I highly recommend getting it done. Thyroid medication given in the correct dosages will make a huge difference on a low thyroid dog.

CLICKER- A clicker is the fastest way to tell the dog they have done well. A food reward must be given every time it is clicked. Dogs are much more enthusiastic when they know the reward is guaranteed.

HIDE AND SEEK- a great game for building drive and engagement. Have someone hold the dog, and you go just slightly out of sight of the dog, call the dog’s name, then your recall word HERE/COME. The helper releases the dog. When the dog reaches you give a jackpot (handful of the dog’s daily meal) to the dog. Lengthen distance and difficulty gradually, the dog will start using it’s nose as well as it’s eyes to find you.

WAIT and TAKE IT game is used to build calm behavior, and focus on the handler. Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog. Give a verbal WAIT command. Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it until they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, open your hand and reward.

FOCUS GAME using the dog’s daily meals. Have the dog sit on a safe raised object. Stand in front of the dog. Let the dog see you take two pieces of their food, one in each hand. Outstretch your arms all the way out from your side. Look directly at the dog’s eyes and make a “kissy” sounds or other attention getting noise with your mouth. The instant the dog turns their gaze from your hand to your face IMMEDIATELY say YES! - and reward from either hand. Repeat often for best results.

TOUCH is also a very helpful command. Hold a safe object like an empty water bottle in front of the dog, usually curiosity will lead the dog to put its nose on it. Immediatly reward the dog. If they are uninterested, put a piece of kibble inside the bottle and shake it- reward when dog touches the bottle. Add the verbal cue TOUCH once they get the idea. If the dog tries to bite the bottle, use a two quart sized one instead. Once the verbal command is learned it can be used to get the dog’s attention away from other distractions. It can also help position the dog while doing basic obedience like heel. The TOUCH command is also very valuable when I have a dog who is worried about an object. Utilizing a clicker, I’ll condition the dog to touch the fearful object - then reward them for doing so.

TRAIN SIMPLE TRICKS- ones that dogs often love are fast paced like SPIN, CATCH, and BACK.

ADDING VARIATION keeps training more exciting for the dog and keeps them engaged longer. Be consistent with the training, but inconsistent with the routine you use. Switch hands when using food, add in a fast trick like spin. During obedience work throw a trick in, or a quick game of tug (providing the dog understands the release rules of tug), then add another obedience exercise.

TRAINING EQUIPMENT - A specific collar/harness are often used by law enforcement and the military for tracking, a different one for protection work, a different one for being a house pet. The dogs quickly associate the equipment with the exercise, and disengage from that exercise when the equipment is off. Utilizing a specific collar on the dog can also mean “food is now available through training” and taking it off means “training is over, window is closed”. This can really help the dog to distinguish the difference between engagement work/play and relax time- thus training the dog to learn to have an OFF switch.

More articles like Adolescent to Adult- Problem Solving, Pup Basic Manners Training, Dog to Dog Reactivity, Nail Trimming, and Senior Dog Care are available at my All Basics-Dog Training blog, which is open to the public and free of charge.
❤️🐺❤️

21/06/2025

Here is my article on Neighborhood Dog’s Excessive Barking.

One of the main reasons human’s started keeping dogs was because they would bark, and alert them to potential danger. For centuries man has selectively bred certain qualities into dogs, and to this day alerting is still seen by most dog owners as a positive thing.

Dog’s know nothing of property lines nor posted signs. To a dog, what land they can see or have accessed belongs to them- and should be guarded from strangers. Responsible dog owners work with their dogs, and train them not to bark excessively.

Most dogs who bark to the point of being a nuisance are not getting their mental and physical breed specific needs met- this isn’t a dog problem, it’s an owner problem. You will want the law on your side, regardless of how you handle this. Be sure to keep a log with the dates, times, frequency, and duration of the barking. Your local town clerk should be able to tell you if your area has a noise ordinance (which is a law), and what that entails. If broken- the police will respond to a noise ordinance issue, and this may resolve the situation.

You could talk to the neighbor about their dog barking, they may not be aware it is actually a problem. If they are cooperative, you could go with the owner and meet the dog personally with some high grade food treats- which to a dog can make a stranger into a best friend pretty quickly. Once the dog sees you are nice, and not a stranger anymore- they often completely stop barking at you.

There are more laws now about chaining a dog outside, and the length of time that can be. The dog warden for your area will have that information. Sometimes getting animal control involved is the best thing for the dog, as the lucky ones may be re homed to someone who will give them a better life- but there is also a good chance the dog will end up getting euthanized because of behavior issues, or just lack of space at the facility.

If other neighbors are also complaining to the owner about the barking, this peer pressure can quickly get positive results in your favor. Getting a petition signed by everyone in your neighborhood can also be very effective in stopping unwanted barking. A privacy screen set up on your property to block the dog’s vision can help to minimize excessive barking. Try contacting the Homeowner’s Association if you are in one, they usually take noise seriously.

I, unfortunately, have dealt with some pretty uncooperative neighbors in the past - I found if their dogs are barking at me, it was usually because the neighbor’s want them aggressive to keep people away. What I do is find out the dog’s name ( usually the owner is swearing and screaming at the dogs, so name is pretty easy to hear), and when they start barking at me while I’m in my own yard- I say in a sincere friendly voice “Hi (dog’s name), what a good watchdog you are! “ and then go about my business. In a few days the dogs just ignore me while I’m gardening in my yard.

Remember anger usually reflects anger back- so do NOT glare at the dog, nor send hateful energy their way, as these things will only make the situation worse because the dog will believe you truly are a bad human, and that you definitely shouldn’t be where you are.

More articles like training the Quiet Command, Bite Prevention, Fear Aggression, Reactive Dogs, and Pup Basic Manners Training are available at my blog. The blog is open to the public, and free of charge.❤️🐺❤️

12/12/2024

Great low impact exercise for both of us!
Featuring Kenji the ACD ❤️🐺❤️

31/12/2023

Very well written article. ❤️🐺❤️

Until a year ago, I was a trainer with a very force free approach. I didn’t believe there was a place for aversives in dog training. I didn’t have a dog that required them. Lucky me!

Until I got this chap. My very much adored kelpie, Evo. Bred to move HUGE flocks and herds of livestock out in rural Australia. A hard-headed dog, with a mega independent streak.

I worked hard with him. I’m a trainer. I laid my foundations, as I have done successfully with my other 4 dogs before him. They worked, to a point. And then, they didn’t.

I was fully prepared to give him a breed-appropriate outlet. Alongside the other work I give my dogs, I have my own sheep, meaning I can work my own dogs regularly on stock. However, my small flock of flighty sheep was far too jumpy for him to work, and he was becoming dangerous out and about in any sort of proximity to sheep.

So, you may say, just keep him on a lead! Problem solved. Well, not really.

Management can and does fail. I have heard it from countless clients. I have had it fail myself.

I also live, with sheep on my property, and surrounding it on 3 sides. Everywhere we turn, there are sheep. There’s no avoiding them.

Keep him on a lead in the garden? We have a large garden and keeping him on the lead would be unfair. He’s an incredibly active, working bred dog, who would end up spending his entire life on a lead.

We also encountered prey drive issues out and about, particularly around deer. His recall was fantastic, but once we moved, our walks were either full of deer, or sheep and he could rip a long line out of your hands to chase something particularly tempting.

So, I decided to bite the bullet and e-collar train. Controversial, particularly online.

But, the absolute best thing I ever did.

The alternative solutions I had suggested were:

Keep him on the lead - I buy good quality leads, but they have failed on me before
Move house - we’ve moved to a dream house, not an option
Avoid places with sheep etc - hard when they’re in the garden
Long line - he could still pull a long line out of reach
Train him - he was trained to a very high level and we had reached the limits via force free methods.

Management fails.

I went through the process of conditioning him properly to the e-collar. I spent ages ensuring I got it right, he understood what was expected and that he knew how to switch it off. I invested in a pricey bit of kit, and I went about it by the book.

It’s transformed his life.

He can romp around the garden, he can walk through my sheep without batting an eyelid, he can walk off lead on the hills and he can enjoy walking in the forest even when deer run out in front of us.

For him, that wasn’t ever going to be an option without it.

Nothing was more reinforcing than chasing.

And it was going to get him killed. He’d have been shot, or hit by a car, or lost. All because I wouldn’t open my mind to using different tools.

Am I suggesting every dog requires one? Absolutely not. But there are MANY cases where they save lives. It’s both saved and enriched his.

He’s happy, he lives his best life. He hikes everywhere with us, he’s well mannered and fully reliable off the lead. He knows the rules, and that’s the key.

He’s not suppressed. He can still go off and be a dog. He tears around the garden with our other dogs, he sniffs and does dog things. But he’s safe when doing it all.

I see a lot of judgement towards these tools from people owning dogs who would never require these tools. That’s great. And that’s also not a problem. But it is completely unfair to demonise the use of a tool which you haven’t taken the time to fully understand. I was 100%, without a doubt, against them before I took the time to understand how they worked and how they were used.

It’s imperative that they’re used with a trainer well versed in using them. It’s also crucial that the equipment used is good quality and not something cheap from Amazon or eBay. It’s an investment, but one that is so necessary for a lot more dogs than you might realise.

Take the time to understand others’ points of view. There is truly not a one-size-fits-all approach in dog training and my change of opinion has opened up a whole new world for all of my dogs ❤

Photo by Saffy Leyfield Photography

13/12/2023

Great interactive food toy for dogs 40 pounds and under!
Kenji loves it! ❤️🐺❤️

28/04/2023

Great advice, and definitely things to consider about public dog parks. Privately owned, regulated, and supervised dog parks can be a much safer option. ❤️🐺❤️

Hi all, I know many dog owners feel that dog parks are great for socializing dogs, but there are many factors to consider.

When talking with one of my students that is a local Emergency Room Veterinarian about dog parks she told me about how many cases she gets on a regular bases caused at dog parks. I asked her for a quote to share to help educate more dog owners to the realities of taking your dog to a dog park.

🩺 Here is Stephanie Silberstang, DVM, Emergency Medicine full quote;

📍"The majority of dog bite injuries that I see in the emergency room occur at the dog park. Large groups of dogs, of varying sizes and play styles, in small spaces is a recipe for disaster. I have treated anything from a nick on the ear to loss of life after a fight at the dog park. In addition to bite wounds, I have also treated kennel cough, gastrointestinal infections, heat stroke, foreign body ingestions, and injuries after escape from the dog park. Generally speaking, dog parks are unsafe."

📍 Please understand to properly socialize dogs we must advocate for all the dogs, and create a environment that is safe for them. In NYC most dog parks are so small it does not give many dogs the option to get away from uncomfortable situations, and most owners are not learned how to see dogs' stress, avoidance and appeasement signals, which puts dogs past their threshold, that lead to many fights.

📍 Many dog parks do not have large and small sections to separate dogs to allow appropriate sized dogs to play and when they do many owners do not abide by them leading to smaller dogs being in very dangerous situations.

📍Owners bring their dogs to the dog parks before they've formed a relationship with them, have formed a common language through training, and have learned to understand their dog's triggers, which can lead to dangerous situations.

📍There is so much unknown about the other dogs at dog parks, including their health, and vaccinations so it causes many dogs to get sick after visiting them.

📍I understand there are dog parks that have great members that do a better job at abiding by the rules but we must be cautious and set our dogs up for success. if you feel you want to take your dog, please take the time to get to know your dog better after adoption. Let your puppy mature and go to a controlled puppy socialization class, teach your dog to have at least basic obedience and a solid recall. Research the dog park and how the attendees monitor their dogs, every time before entering.

23/02/2023

Be prepared for the unexpected, it may save your dog’s life.
Great short videos on how to release a dog from leg hold, grip/Conibear trap, and snares. ❤️🐺❤️

https://youtu.be/VtNfejeaYns ( trap video)

https://youtu.be/j1MVqFYfIhw (snare video)

Tips and step by step instructions on how to remove a dog from a trap

18/02/2023

Here is my article on Whining Dogs.

First off, WHY are they whining?

That is a very good, yet a bit complicated question.There are many reasons why dogs whine, it can be a learned behavior, pain related, it can also be due to their genetics- certain breeds tend to be more vocal in general.
Many breeds nowadays have been specifically bred to be more submissive, which in turn often makes the individual more insecure and needy. Dogs will feed off each other’s behavior, and if one whines the others will often start as well. Whining can be because they are uncomfortable, or because it got them something they desired- like attention or food.
Dogs are going to repeat behaviors that benefited them in the past.

Pain must be ruled out first as a cause, and it may not be easily visible. I recommend having a complete physical done by a Veterinarian with full blood work panel as well.
Dogs may have joint pain, digestive issues, allergies, or parasites- all of which can cause dogs to call out to us for help in the form of whining.

Are they getting enough mental and physical exercise?
Perhaps they are frustrated - ask the dog to engage in something constructive first in exchange for your attention, THEN you can reward them.
Set boundaries in the relationship with your dog, they thrive on a consistent daily structured life. With a dog who whines for attention, everything should be earned. I highly recommend using all the dogs daily meals as rewards for training. Hand feeding gives “value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view. Controlling the dogs most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training. Asking them to do something basic like an already learned sit, down, or heel will encourage calm behavior from them, and helps put you in charge of the situation. Wait them out until they respond, then reward them with praise, complying with their request, and occasionally with a piece of their daily meal. Reward them for calm behavior, it will pay back threefold. Always be more consistent than they are persistent.

Control your own emotions- dog’s watch and look to us for information, they pick up on our moods and behaviors. If we are stressed or worried this will very often affect them as well.

Often redirecting the whining into a constructive behavior works. Lots of mental games are helpful, especially for highly intelligent and active herding breeds. Mental stimulation will often tire a dog faster than physical exercise. Most dogs can be distracted with a chew - I have an entire article on various ones available on Chew Toys For Dogs.

Whining can be communicating excitement, as a greeting behavior. People should greet the dog in a calm manner, and with a low pitch voice- if calm behavior is what you want to get back in return.

Anxiety and whining in dogs is often created unknowingly by humans.
It’s very important NOT to make a big deal out of leaving the dog.
Stressed energy from us will cause anxiety in the dog, and then the person leaves them alone - and that is the state of mind they often stay in for hours.
I recommend leaving calmly and quietly,and give the dog an interactive food toy like a rubber Kong toy- filled with part of the dogs daily meal, if frozen even better as it will take longer for them to empty it. This usually distracts the dog long enough for you to get out the door before they realize you are gone. Often the dog accepts the situation, and rests. Leaving white noise, TV, or classical music on can also help calm the dog while you are gone. The same goes to when we come back home to the dog. When I come home I DON’T immediately go to the dog, I take care of my own stuff first for a few minutes, allowing the dogs mind and adrenaline to settle a bit before letting him out of his crate or kennel. This puts him in a calmer, more balanced state of mind- instead of the frenzied mind often caused by letting him out immediately. For dogs with severe anxiety I would buy an Impact or Gunner crate. They are expensive, but when you consider the potential damage to your property as well as Veterinarian costs for the dog getting hurt trying to get out or getting into something while out, these crates are well worth the money.
Dogs often whine during the beginning of crate training, this is normal to an extent. My article on Crate Training will help with conditioning the dog to love their crate.

Fearful whining- fear is by definition an emotion, so technically speaking we can validate - but not reinforce fear. We can, however, redirect and reinforce the state of mind the dog is in- because dogs live in the now, and learn by action.
People want to believe they are helping the fearful dog by comforting it, like they would a frightened child. The difference is dogs are not human children, and they cannot rationalize like humans can. If we are in a worried state of mind when petting a frightened dog, they will pick up on our unbalanced energy. The petting will often be seen by the dog as praise, and we end up reinforcing the undesirable behavior they are doing at that moment. By providing fearful dogs with consistently calm leadership and direction we will help guide them through their fears. Training basic obedience, interrupting and redirecting towards a more positive activity, incorporating structure into their daily routine, and giving praise and reward at the appropriate time, dogs will learn coping skills that will benefit them for the rest of their lives.

The whiny dog may be overstimulated. In many dogs, especially ones under one year of age- a common reason for whining is the dog has sleep deprivation. This occurs more often in households with young children. Try scheduling the dog’s day with one hour of quiet crate time then one hour of play time outside the crate. Rotate throughout the day. Repeat for a minimum of one week, then assess the dog’s behavior and schedule daily “naps” as needed. Dogs always thrive best on a consistent daily schedule. In the case where the pup has done something inappropriate, information in my Time Out Pup article describes the best way to utilize the crate in this circumstance.

Appeasement whining is a submissive behavior around others, and a form of communication. Behavior may include yawning, lip licking, averting eyes, flattening ears, and tucked tail. Confidence Building drills are excellent for bonding with your dog, as well as giving the dog a more balanced state of mind. Using the dog’s daily food as rewards or a favorite toy lure the dog in/under/through/onto safe objects. Start easy and gradually make the obstacles more difficult. Lots of praise throughout the process.

TIPS:
You can train the WAIT and TAKE IT game to build impulse control, and focus on the handler. Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog. Give a verbal WAIT command. Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it till they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, and open your hand and reward. Repeat.
Goal is to have calm,quiet behavior, and direct eye contact before rewarding.

PLACE command is very helpful impulse control exercises for older pups, they will learn to go to their dog cot, lie down, be quiet, and stay there until given a release word. Sessions should be fairly short to start. A tie back can be used at first, always supervised. I have a very detailed article on training PLACE.

Box Feeding, which is basically classical conditioning, can be an invaluable tool for a insecure, worried dog. Using the dog’s daily meals they will learn to keep their heads inside the box while noise distractions are gradually added. They learn the sounds are not to be feared, so they actually look forward to them because they are rewarded with pieces of their meals AFTER the scary noise and short pause. This conditioning transfers over to their basic obedience, making an overall more mentally balanced dog. I have a detailed article on Box Feeding.

Structured walks : The structured walk changes the dog’s behavior from a free for all to a calmer, more balanced state of mind. They should be daily or twice a day, and can be done indoors if the weather outside is unfavorable. I have a very detailed article on Structured Walks including many tips on how to easily reach your goal.

I highly recommend Treadmill training-which is excellent for both the dog’s state of mind AND year round low impact physical exercise. Just a walking speed, but with gradually added duration. I have an article on how to easily and safely treadmill train a dog.

Treatment from your Veterinarian in conjunction with training may be necessary for some dogs temporarily to help them learn coping skills. There are many different options available from acupuncture and holistic medicine, to modern anti-anxiety treatment.

The Double Down/Head Down exercise combines already learned verbal commands with low level stimulation from a quality remote electronic collar. When a dog’s body is in the lying down position, with their head down as well, their brain naturally starts to calm. The electronic collar is used at lower levels as communication NOT as a correction. I have an article available on how to train this valuable exercise.

If the whining is just occasional, and not really a problem- you can ignore it until the whining stops, then immediately praise with a verbal “Good Quiet”. My article on training the QUIET command is useful if it’s just occasional nuisance whining.

A weighted vest can be very effective for whiny dogs. I recommend the XDOG brand. Start with the vest empty, then add sand or metal BBs to the pockets very gradually up to ten percent of the dog’s body weight. This weight is for resting ONLY, as running or jumping with this weight could damage the dog. Thundershirts and Thunder Ease spray are also beneficial to many.

My site below contains my numerous articles with suggestions on how to help keep your pup,adult, or older dog mentally and physically occupied.
Index includes- Adolescent to Adult Problem Solving, Senior Dog Care, and Pup Basic Manners Training, and are available at my link below. The site is open to the public, and free of charge.
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https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/