All Basics - Dog Training

31/12/2023

Very well written article. ❤️🐺❤️

Until a year ago, I was a trainer with a very force free approach. I didn’t believe there was a place for aversives in dog training. I didn’t have a dog that required them. Lucky me!

Until I got this chap. My very much adored kelpie, Evo. Bred to move HUGE flocks and herds of livestock out in rural Australia. A hard-headed dog, with a mega independent streak.

I worked hard with him. I’m a trainer. I laid my foundations, as I have done successfully with my other 4 dogs before him. They worked, to a point. And then, they didn’t.

I was fully prepared to give him a breed-appropriate outlet. Alongside the other work I give my dogs, I have my own sheep, meaning I can work my own dogs regularly on stock. However, my small flock of flighty sheep was far too jumpy for him to work, and he was becoming dangerous out and about in any sort of proximity to sheep.

So, you may say, just keep him on a lead! Problem solved. Well, not really.

Management can and does fail. I have heard it from countless clients. I have had it fail myself.

I also live, with sheep on my property, and surrounding it on 3 sides. Everywhere we turn, there are sheep. There’s no avoiding them.

Keep him on a lead in the garden? We have a large garden and keeping him on the lead would be unfair. He’s an incredibly active, working bred dog, who would end up spending his entire life on a lead.

We also encountered prey drive issues out and about, particularly around deer. His recall was fantastic, but once we moved, our walks were either full of deer, or sheep and he could rip a long line out of your hands to chase something particularly tempting.

So, I decided to bite the bullet and e-collar train. Controversial, particularly online.

But, the absolute best thing I ever did.

The alternative solutions I had suggested were:

Keep him on the lead - I buy good quality leads, but they have failed on me before
Move house - we’ve moved to a dream house, not an option
Avoid places with sheep etc - hard when they’re in the garden
Long line - he could still pull a long line out of reach
Train him - he was trained to a very high level and we had reached the limits via force free methods.

Management fails.

I went through the process of conditioning him properly to the e-collar. I spent ages ensuring I got it right, he understood what was expected and that he knew how to switch it off. I invested in a pricey bit of kit, and I went about it by the book.

It’s transformed his life.

He can romp around the garden, he can walk through my sheep without batting an eyelid, he can walk off lead on the hills and he can enjoy walking in the forest even when deer run out in front of us.

For him, that wasn’t ever going to be an option without it.

Nothing was more reinforcing than chasing.

And it was going to get him killed. He’d have been shot, or hit by a car, or lost. All because I wouldn’t open my mind to using different tools.

Am I suggesting every dog requires one? Absolutely not. But there are MANY cases where they save lives. It’s both saved and enriched his.

He’s happy, he lives his best life. He hikes everywhere with us, he’s well mannered and fully reliable off the lead. He knows the rules, and that’s the key.

He’s not suppressed. He can still go off and be a dog. He tears around the garden with our other dogs, he sniffs and does dog things. But he’s safe when doing it all.

I see a lot of judgement towards these tools from people owning dogs who would never require these tools. That’s great. And that’s also not a problem. But it is completely unfair to demonise the use of a tool which you haven’t taken the time to fully understand. I was 100%, without a doubt, against them before I took the time to understand how they worked and how they were used.

It’s imperative that they’re used with a trainer well versed in using them. It’s also crucial that the equipment used is good quality and not something cheap from Amazon or eBay. It’s an investment, but one that is so necessary for a lot more dogs than you might realise.

Take the time to understand others’ points of view. There is truly not a one-size-fits-all approach in dog training and my change of opinion has opened up a whole new world for all of my dogs ❤

Photo by Saffy Leyfield Photography

13/12/2023

Great interactive food toy for dogs 40 pounds and under!
Kenji loves it! ❤️🐺❤️

23/05/2023

A weekend of peace, paws, and music!

28/04/2023

Great advice, and definitely things to consider about public dog parks. Privately owned, regulated, and supervised dog parks can be a much safer option. ❤️🐺❤️

Hi all, I know many dog owners feel that dog parks are great for socializing dogs, but there are many factors to consider.

When talking with one of my students that is a local Emergency Room Veterinarian about dog parks she told me about how many cases she gets on a regular bases caused at dog parks. I asked her for a quote to share to help educate more dog owners to the realities of taking your dog to a dog park.

🩺 Here is Stephanie Silberstang, DVM, Emergency Medicine full quote;

📍"The majority of dog bite injuries that I see in the emergency room occur at the dog park. Large groups of dogs, of varying sizes and play styles, in small spaces is a recipe for disaster. I have treated anything from a nick on the ear to loss of life after a fight at the dog park. In addition to bite wounds, I have also treated kennel cough, gastrointestinal infections, heat stroke, foreign body ingestions, and injuries after escape from the dog park. Generally speaking, dog parks are unsafe."

📍 Please understand to properly socialize dogs we must advocate for all the dogs, and create a environment that is safe for them. In NYC most dog parks are so small it does not give many dogs the option to get away from uncomfortable situations, and most owners are not learned how to see dogs' stress, avoidance and appeasement signals, which puts dogs past their threshold, that lead to many fights.

📍 Many dog parks do not have large and small sections to separate dogs to allow appropriate sized dogs to play and when they do many owners do not abide by them leading to smaller dogs being in very dangerous situations.

📍Owners bring their dogs to the dog parks before they've formed a relationship with them, have formed a common language through training, and have learned to understand their dog's triggers, which can lead to dangerous situations.

📍There is so much unknown about the other dogs at dog parks, including their health, and vaccinations so it causes many dogs to get sick after visiting them.

📍I understand there are dog parks that have great members that do a better job at abiding by the rules but we must be cautious and set our dogs up for success. if you feel you want to take your dog, please take the time to get to know your dog better after adoption. Let your puppy mature and go to a controlled puppy socialization class, teach your dog to have at least basic obedience and a solid recall. Research the dog park and how the attendees monitor their dogs, every time before entering.

23/02/2023

Be prepared for the unexpected, it may save your dog’s life.
Great short videos on how to release a dog from leg hold, grip/Conibear trap, and snares. ❤️🐺❤️

https://youtu.be/VtNfejeaYns ( trap video)

https://youtu.be/j1MVqFYfIhw (snare video)

Tips and step by step instructions on how to remove a dog from a trap

18/02/2023

Here is my article on Whining Dogs.

First off, WHY are they whining?

That is a very good, yet a bit complicated question.There are many reasons why dogs whine, it can be a learned behavior, pain related, it can also be due to their genetics- certain breeds tend to be more vocal in general.
Many breeds nowadays have been specifically bred to be more submissive, which in turn often makes the individual more insecure and needy. Dogs will feed off each other’s behavior, and if one whines the others will often start as well. Whining can be because they are uncomfortable, or because it got them something they desired- like attention or food.
Dogs are going to repeat behaviors that benefited them in the past.

Pain must be ruled out first as a cause, and it may not be easily visible. I recommend having a complete physical done by a Veterinarian with full blood work panel as well.
Dogs may have joint pain, digestive issues, allergies, or parasites- all of which can cause dogs to call out to us for help in the form of whining.

Are they getting enough mental and physical exercise?
Perhaps they are frustrated - ask the dog to engage in something constructive first in exchange for your attention, THEN you can reward them.
Set boundaries in the relationship with your dog, they thrive on a consistent daily structured life. With a dog who whines for attention, everything should be earned. I highly recommend using all the dogs daily meals as rewards for training. Hand feeding gives “value” to the owner in the dog’s point of view. Controlling the dogs most valuable resource gives us a huge advantage in training. Asking them to do something basic like an already learned sit, down, or heel will encourage calm behavior from them, and helps put you in charge of the situation. Wait them out until they respond, then reward them with praise, complying with their request, and occasionally with a piece of their daily meal. Reward them for calm behavior, it will pay back threefold. Always be more consistent than they are persistent.

Control your own emotions- dog’s watch and look to us for information, they pick up on our moods and behaviors. If we are stressed or worried this will very often affect them as well.

Often redirecting the whining into a constructive behavior works. Lots of mental games are helpful, especially for highly intelligent and active herding breeds. Mental stimulation will often tire a dog faster than physical exercise. Most dogs can be distracted with a chew - I have an entire article on various ones available on Chew Toys For Dogs.

Whining can be communicating excitement, as a greeting behavior. People should greet the dog in a calm manner, and with a low pitch voice- if calm behavior is what you want to get back in return.

Anxiety and whining in dogs is often created unknowingly by humans.
It’s very important NOT to make a big deal out of leaving the dog.
Stressed energy from us will cause anxiety in the dog, and then the person leaves them alone - and that is the state of mind they often stay in for hours.
I recommend leaving calmly and quietly,and give the dog an interactive food toy like a rubber Kong toy- filled with part of the dogs daily meal, if frozen even better as it will take longer for them to empty it. This usually distracts the dog long enough for you to get out the door before they realize you are gone. Often the dog accepts the situation, and rests. Leaving white noise, TV, or classical music on can also help calm the dog while you are gone. The same goes to when we come back home to the dog. When I come home I DON’T immediately go to the dog, I take care of my own stuff first for a few minutes, allowing the dogs mind and adrenaline to settle a bit before letting him out of his crate or kennel. This puts him in a calmer, more balanced state of mind- instead of the frenzied mind often caused by letting him out immediately. For dogs with severe anxiety I would buy an Impact or Gunner crate. They are expensive, but when you consider the potential damage to your property as well as Veterinarian costs for the dog getting hurt trying to get out or getting into something while out, these crates are well worth the money.
Dogs often whine during the beginning of crate training, this is normal to an extent. My article on Crate Training will help with conditioning the dog to love their crate.

Fearful whining- fear is by definition an emotion, so technically speaking we can validate - but not reinforce fear. We can, however, redirect and reinforce the state of mind the dog is in- because dogs live in the now, and learn by action.
People want to believe they are helping the fearful dog by comforting it, like they would a frightened child. The difference is dogs are not human children, and they cannot rationalize like humans can. If we are in a worried state of mind when petting a frightened dog, they will pick up on our unbalanced energy. The petting will often be seen by the dog as praise, and we end up reinforcing the undesirable behavior they are doing at that moment. By providing fearful dogs with consistently calm leadership and direction we will help guide them through their fears. Training basic obedience, interrupting and redirecting towards a more positive activity, incorporating structure into their daily routine, and giving praise and reward at the appropriate time, dogs will learn coping skills that will benefit them for the rest of their lives.

The whiny dog may be overstimulated. In many dogs, especially ones under one year of age- a common reason for whining is the dog has sleep deprivation. This occurs more often in households with young children. Try scheduling the dog’s day with one hour of quiet crate time then one hour of play time outside the crate. Rotate throughout the day. Repeat for a minimum of one week, then assess the dog’s behavior and schedule daily “naps” as needed. Dogs always thrive best on a consistent daily schedule. In the case where the pup has done something inappropriate, information in my Time Out Pup article describes the best way to utilize the crate in this circumstance.

Appeasement whining is a submissive behavior around others, and a form of communication. Behavior may include yawning, lip licking, averting eyes, flattening ears, and tucked tail. Confidence Building drills are excellent for bonding with your dog, as well as giving the dog a more balanced state of mind. Using the dog’s daily food as rewards or a favorite toy lure the dog in/under/through/onto safe objects. Start easy and gradually make the obstacles more difficult. Lots of praise throughout the process.

TIPS:
You can train the WAIT and TAKE IT game to build impulse control, and focus on the handler. Take a piece of food in your hand, with fist closed. Bring your hand close to the dog. Give a verbal WAIT command. Let the dog sniff, but don’t let them have it till they settle a bit and are calmer, then say TAKE IT, and open your hand and reward. Repeat.
Goal is to have calm,quiet behavior, and direct eye contact before rewarding.

PLACE command is very helpful impulse control exercises for older pups, they will learn to go to their dog cot, lie down, be quiet, and stay there until given a release word. Sessions should be fairly short to start. A tie back can be used at first, always supervised. I have a very detailed article on training PLACE.

Box Feeding, which is basically classical conditioning, can be an invaluable tool for a insecure, worried dog. Using the dog’s daily meals they will learn to keep their heads inside the box while noise distractions are gradually added. They learn the sounds are not to be feared, so they actually look forward to them because they are rewarded with pieces of their meals AFTER the scary noise and short pause. This conditioning transfers over to their basic obedience, making an overall more mentally balanced dog. I have a detailed article on Box Feeding.

Structured walks : The structured walk changes the dog’s behavior from a free for all to a calmer, more balanced state of mind. They should be daily or twice a day, and can be done indoors if the weather outside is unfavorable. I have a very detailed article on Structured Walks including many tips on how to easily reach your goal.

I highly recommend Treadmill training-which is excellent for both the dog’s state of mind AND year round low impact physical exercise. Just a walking speed, but with gradually added duration. I have an article on how to easily and safely treadmill train a dog.

Treatment from your Veterinarian in conjunction with training may be necessary for some dogs temporarily to help them learn coping skills. There are many different options available from acupuncture and holistic medicine, to modern anti-anxiety treatment.

The Double Down/Head Down exercise combines already learned verbal commands with low level stimulation from a quality remote electronic collar. When a dog’s body is in the lying down position, with their head down as well, their brain naturally starts to calm. The electronic collar is used at lower levels as communication NOT as a correction. I have an article available on how to train this valuable exercise.

If the whining is just occasional, and not really a problem- you can ignore it until the whining stops, then immediately praise with a verbal “Good Quiet”. My article on training the QUIET command is useful if it’s just occasional nuisance whining.

A weighted vest can be very effective for whiny dogs. I recommend the XDOG brand. Start with the vest empty, then add sand or metal BBs to the pockets very gradually up to ten percent of the dog’s body weight. This weight is for resting ONLY, as running or jumping with this weight could damage the dog. Thundershirts and Thunder Ease spray are also beneficial to many.

My site below contains my numerous articles with suggestions on how to help keep your pup,adult, or older dog mentally and physically occupied.
Index includes- Adolescent to Adult Problem Solving, Senior Dog Care, and Pup Basic Manners Training, and are available at my link below. The site is open to the public, and free of charge.
❤️🐺❤️
https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

01/02/2023

WHY MUZZLE CONDITION A DOG?

1)So they are comfortable wearing one- in an emergency situation even the nicest dogs often bite when in severe pain. Being already used to a muzzle will omit the stress of having to wear one to be handled safely.
2)Help prevent a full on bite to another animal or person.
3)An already muzzle conditioned dog will be less stressed at the Veterinarian clinic if they are required to wear one.
4)It’s a good trust and bonding exercise for a dog.
5)It often allows dogs more freedom who might otherwise not be able to go places because of poor social skills.
6)During grooming sessions, particularly nail trimming.
7)To keep the dog from eating something harmful off the ground. The muzzle shown has a muzzle guard available.
8)To detour strangers from approaching your dog.
9)Muzzles, along with owners who advocate, can help nervous dogs gain confidence and learn coping skills.
10) To help an owner feel less worried about walking their reactive dog. A less anxious owner very often produces a more calm, trainable dog. ❤️🐺❤️
https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/
🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸🔸
Here is my article on Muzzle Conditioning

I recommend muzzle conditioning for all dogs, regardless of if they are aggressive or not. Always supervise a muzzled dog.

You can start with a paper or plastic cup, put cheddar spray cheese down in the bottom, and let the dog lick it out. This will help condition the dog to having something around their face.

I use Baskerville muzzles for muzzle conditioning, as they are a soft rubbery material, and easy to clean. They come in six different sizes. The dog can pant easily, drink water, and eat through this type of muzzle.

I have a flat buckle collar and short leash on the dog, when muzzle conditioning them.

Start with the muzzle in your hand, put some spray cheese inside where the dogs mouth would be. Let the dog lick out the cheese while having their head in the muzzle. Pull the muzzle away BEFORE they finish all the cheese, this builds drive to want to have their head in there. Repeat several times so the dog really looks forward to putting its head in the muzzle.

Once they are comfortable with that, start putting the muzzle strap behind the dogs head while they are licking the cheese, but do not buckle it yet. Repeat a few times.

Now we can go ahead and pull the strap through the buckle on the muzzle , and connect it on the dog. Have some high value treats like beef or chicken meat that will fit through the muzzle ready. Immediately feed them through the muzzle, then remove the muzzle and feed one treat. Repeat exercise a few times.

By now the dog should be pretty comfortable with the muzzle, at first I still put some spray cheese inside, put the muzzle on and buckle the strap. Immediately walk the dog around a bit and lure them along with high value treats fed through the muzzle.

If the dog starts to paw at or rub the muzzle against anything just keep them walking and reward with praise and treats. Once calm, take the muzzle off and reward.

We never want the dog to be able to get the muzzle off by themselves, as that can become a bad habit if they get it off once.

I practice on a regular basis to keep the dog in the habit of wearing one, at least once a week - using part of his daily meal as a reward.

When the dog is comfortable wearing the muzzle I will loop the muzzle strap around the dogs collar, then buckle the muzzle strap.
I clip a carabiner to the lower muzzle loop if it has one, and attach the carabiner to the dogs collar.

If the muzzle is used very frequently it may create rub marks, use thick yarn and wrap the muzzle area which is rubbing. Custom built muzzles are available online for all dog sizes.

I generally go for the larger size if the dog is in between sizes. The muzzle should give ample room to pant, as that is the main way dog’s displace their body heat.
Many rubbery type muzzles can also be dipped in a pot of boiling water, then shaped slightly to fit the dog better .

Another favorite of mine is the Jafco muzzle. The Jafco is much more sealed than the Baskerville, and a better choice for known bite risk dogs. Some dogs, including Kenji, can still get a nip in through a Baskerville muzzle.
Kenji tends to be an in-between size. In the photo he is wearing a Birdwell Enterprises Dog Muzzle, medium sized, made in the USA. I found this brand gives plenty of room to pant, without being excessively large or rubbing into his eyes.

More dog training and care articles like Buying a Purebred Pup, Senior Dog Care, Structured Walks, and Fear Aggression are available at my site below, which is open to the public and free of charge.
❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

With the harder material dog boots I will buy a size for each, which is ideal because it gives you two complete pairs in case one pair is wet/damaged you have a spare set.  

25/01/2023

Sharing this fantastic post, to help educate others.❤️🐺❤️

“They aren’t dangerous if you raise them right.”

Not exactly true. Modoc is 7 years old and has been raised around kids and to not be food or toy aggressive. Harrison is being raised to be respectful to animals.

BUT Modoc is a dog and Harrison is a baby.

Babies need to be at all times around dogs, and not just watched. People need to understand a dog’s stress signals.

Modoc is a great dog but Harrison also isn’t allowed to on or the dogs, he’s not allowed to play with their or , he is not allowed near their ever and not allowed around them when they are .

My dogs are not expected to tolerate being annoyed. I can tell you from experience that EVERY DOG HAS A BREAKING POINT, and every dog WILL bite.

It is up to to to be safe and and to educate themselves on dog behaviour and body language and prevent what is usually 100% preventable." - Olivia Paige

11/01/2023

My new dryer arrived today-the box made a great confidence building obstacle! ❤️🐺❤️

https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

04/01/2023

Excellent article, highly recommended! ❤️🐺❤️

How to determine your dog's ideal weight and add nearly two extra years to his life

04/08/2022

Here is my article on Lost Dog Recovery.

The first 24 hours are critical, and offer you the best chance of getting your dog back safely. Do whatever you have to to dedicate this time entirely to finding your dog.

Domesticated dogs when lost can quickly go into Survival Mode where they revert back to their primal instincts. When a dog is stressed, serotonin is suddenly depleted resulting in short term memory loss- pushing the dog into survival mode. This can happen almost immediately, or take a couple of weeks to occur. If your dog normally comes to you and now runs away, he has likely gone into survival mode. They search only for food/water, shelter, and safety. They are fearful of humans, and will not even recognize their owner by sight alone. They have to get the scent of their human to remember.
A live trap may be necessary to catch the dog at this point.
Check the trap every few hours, be patient, it may not work right away. If after a week the dog has not entered the trap I would move it to a new location.

If you can get close to the dog, offer high odor foods like cooked bacon, or hamburgers.
Toss the food to him if he won’t take it from your hand. Getting him close enough to pick up the owners scent may be enough for him to remember and recognize the owner. Lying down on the ground, NOT making eye contact often lures the fearful dog closer. Cooking bacon in the area where the dog has been seen can be helpful, the strong scent travels.
If the dog is staying in one area bring a large bowl of water, and things with his scent on them like his blanket or bed, and a piece of the owner’s used clothing, place them in a sheltered area with brush or trees, instead of out in the open. A hungry dog is more likely to get caught, so I don’t leave food unless it’s in a trap. Food on the open ground will attract other animals, which may drive your dog away.
Survival mode is only temporary, and once the dog is captured they will quickly return to normal.

Be PROACTIVE before your dog gets lost:
-Have a clear current color photo of your dog available.
-Microchip your dog, license them, and put ID on your dogs collar. A flat buckle or a snug martingale collar, embroidered with dog’s name and your phone number are the best. Second best would be an engraved tag riveted to a collar, third best would be a dog tag hanging from a collar. Dogs who are licensed can be traced if they are wearing a tag when they are found.
- Wearing a GPS collar will send the dog’s location to your cell phone. Be sure to keep the battery charged.
-Have the local animal organizations phone numbers ready in your address book and cell phone.
-Train your dog so they have a solid recall, and to wait for a release word at thresholds.
-Many dogs are lost when the bolt out a vehicle or house door. I have detailed articles on training Recall, as well as Barrier and Threshold Training.

Here are some SUGGESTIONS:
- Sometimes the sound of kibble being dropped into a dogs food bowl, or his favorite squeaky toy may entice the dog to come back.
-Dogs that are microchipped have a much higher chance of being reunited with their owners. Call the microchip company immediately and tell them you know the dog is lost, as they often have poster templates and other suggestions that may help.
-Keep collar ID tags updated with two contact phone numbers, home city, and state.
-Rescues/shelters usually don’t keep microchip records once the pet is adopted, so the new owner must have updated that information- or else it is useless.
-Licensed dogs can be traced back to their owners by the license number. Be sure your contact information is current.
- Automated services like LostMy Doggie and FindToto for a fee will immediately send out Amber Alerts, and phone or email thousands of people that may have seen your dog.
- Leave an article of your dirty clothing, the dogs bed or blanket, and a large bowl of water in the area last seen. Often dogs will stay by that. Dogs are most active at dawn and dusk.
- Search the area, enlist neighborhood kids to help by offering them a reward.
-Talk to delivery and postal people.
- Post with a photo on social media, ask people to please SHARE your post.
- Contact local Animal Control, local Shelters, Veterinarians,Kennels, Pet Store, Sheriff’s office dispatch clerk, and rescues by phone. Some organizations will not tell you over the phone if they have the dog, so it’s best to also go in person, and ask if you can leave a poster and contact information with them.
- Keep visiting local dog parks and shelters to check, continue to hand out flyers.
- File a lost pet report with all organizations within a 60 mile radius of the area the dog was lost in.
-Search online in 3-5 adjoining counties.
-A Craigslist lost dog ad may produce results. Check newspaper classified “found” ads as well.
-Put an ad in the local newspaper.
-Get local radio and TV to run an ad.
-Put large signs up at your home, people driving and walking by may recognize the dog.
-Make up 8”x 10” posters which are colorful and eye catching, have a current clear photo of dog, note distinguishing markings, reward if offered, ( leave out one thing about your pets description, so you can use that to verify that the person does actually have your dog, as there are people who will try and have you wire them money to get the dog,and they don’t actually have them). Add information like medications needed, DO NOT CHASE, wearing collar ( what color), dragging leash, last seen at what location. Add two contact numbers, and an email address to the poster. Putting small tear off strips at the bottom of the poster, each containing LOST DOG and your contact numbers makes it more convenient for a person to contact you.
- Post signs in well lit areas at eye level in convenience stores, supermarkets, community post boards, entrances and exits to Parks, Bus stops, phone poles, local coffee shop, anywhere it is legal to post them.
- Make up smaller business card sized posters you can hand out.
- In bilingual communities put up signs in both languages.
-www.animal-care.com sells large live traps. Dog wardens may also have live traps.
- Sometimes it takes weeks, even months or years to find a missing dog, don’t give up!

Use CAUTION:
-Never agree to pay a reward until you have the dog safely in hand.
- Be wary of Pet Recovery / Pet Detectives, anyone can put a “search dog” vest on an untrained dog and charge you a fee, so be sure to get references from them.
- If someone claims to have your dog, but won’t return him, call the police department.
- Never go to pickup your found dog alone, tell someone exactly where you are going, take a cell phone with you, and at least one other adult.

More articles like Runaway Syndrome, Noise Phobias and Dogs, Pup Basic Manners Training, and Senior Dog Care are at my sites below, which are open to the public and free of charge.
❤️🐺❤️
https://allbasics-dogtraining.blogspot.com/

https://www.facebook.com/AllBasicsDogTrainingKimChappell/