01/03/2022
There are different reasons why a dog runs rather than allows you to take the collar to put him back on a leash...
Start this early and you'll not get a problem later..
COLLAR GRAB GAME for building value and confidence in your dog for being held by his collar or harness.
What you Need: Lead, Collar on dog, Food Rewards.
How to Start: start by touching the dog’s collar and as you do, say "collar" - deliver a treat...release & repeat.
Only feed when your hand is on the collar.
Work up to grabbing the collar.. say "collar" While you are still holding the collar, feed a treat. Release.. repeat
Aim for 30-35 Collar-Grabs per session, with 3 sessions in a day.
Each session should be in a different location i.e. in the house or garden.
Add in games of run-and-chase-you.
Make sure they love the Collar-Grab game before you add it to your recalls.
Your aim will be to be add Collar-Grab to most recalls that you do with your dog. When you recall and they drive into you, now take the collar, say 'collar', ask for a sit, reward and release.
The ultimate result is when you can offer your outreached hand..say 'collar' and the dog expects his neck to be held.
If you have a dog who is very shy, start with just moving your hand down their lead and rewarding at each stage, gradually working closer to the collar.
Final Tip: Don’t assume you’ve ever done enough of this game. You should continue it throughout their lives, to keep it a positive and valuable thing to
them. It also never hurts to go back to the beginning of this exercise with any dog and build more value
WHEN IT'S NOT THAT SIMPLE...
If your dog has developed a strong aversion to people reaching towards him to catch him. ..You have tried using treats to bribe him to come closer so you could take a hold of his collar. But your dog has become extremely adept at grabbing the treat, ducking the hand that reaches for the collar, and running off to eat the treats in peace.
Your dog needs to learn that touching his collar is positive.
If your dog backs away from your hand or stands his ground instead of coming toward you when you call his name, the “Catch and Release” game can teach your dog that moving towards you is positive.
The “catch and release” game shifts the negative connection your dog has made with you reaching for his collar into a positive association.
Play the game by saying your dog’s name and offer a treat when he looks at you.
Keep the back of your hand that is holding the treat against your leg, level with your dog’s head so he doesn’t have to jump to get the treat.
Don’t reach out to your dog, he must come in close to get the treat.
If your dog leans toward you instead of walking in close, back up a couple of steps so that he has to move toward you to get the treat.
If he still doesn’t come toward you after you backup, get a better treat.
Keep your hand on your leg even as your dog takes the treat.
To prevent your dog from thinking you are going to give a treat and grab his collar, you must not move your hand toward your dog. If your hand moves toward your dog he will revert to his conditioned response of backing away to avoid your hand in his collar.
When your dog does move and reach for the treat, just let him lick or nibble the treat, keeping the back of your hand on your leg.
After some successful and trusted repeats ..Slowly slip your other hand under his chin to the collar. Scratch his neck with your fingers under his collar and after a second or two of petting under the collar, let go of the treat, release the collar, and move away.
Repeat the catch and release game often in all areas of the house.
If your dog starts to move back or shift his weight back when you slip your hand under his chin or into his collar, close your hand on the treat and immediately pull back the hand that is moving toward his chin and collar.
Wait a second or two and open your hand so the treat is visible while you stand still or try backing up a couple of steps, inviting your dog to approach again. Be patient.
As long as your hand doesn’t reach out to grab your dog or restrain him by the collar, he will eventually approach and accept you scratching him under the collar as he eats the treat.
If you can’t be patient, try the game once or twice and give it up until later.
Importantly, do not resort to reaching for your dog’s collar. The most difficult part of this game is keeping your hand on your leg while your dog reaches for your treat.
(Most people don’t realise they are reaching toward the dog instead of the dog reaching toward them).
Make sure your dog doesn’t grab the treat and run off before you have your fingers in the collar. If your dog is sly, and you can’t get your fingers in the collar before he makes a run for it with the treat, attach his leash so he can’t escape far. He may get the treat before you get your hand in the collar but as long as you don’t reach for him, the lesson still teaches him he doesn’t have to run off and avoid your hand.
Immediately offer him another treat without reaching toward him, let him approach the treat and he will become more trusting of taking your treat without trying to run off.
When you feel your dog is no longer tempted to duck your hand, and is eagerly moving toward you to get the treat, gradually raise the bar of performance and hold a treat in a closed hand while your other hand slips into your dog’s collar and pets him.
Give your dog verbal praise and the treat after you remove your hand. The goal is to teach your dog that when you reach for his collar good things happen.
Always back up a couple steps, rather than move toward your dog when you call him.
Don’t move toward your dog, he will move away.
Don’t feed your dog the treat; he needs to reach for the treat and take it from your hand.
FOR EXTREME CASES OF “CATCH ME IF YOU CAN”
If your dog won’t come for his favourite food, attach a long leash to his collar so you can step on it and shut down any alternative routes away from you. You will want to use a collar that doesn’t slip off your dog’s neck.
Pick up the long-leash and hold a treat out in front of your leg. Next, SLOWLY and GRADUALLY apply tension or pressure taking up the slack in the leash.
When you feel your dog pull against you just hold the tension. Don’t pull back.
Hold the tension steady and evenly with the leash against your body. (Many people can’t resist pulling or are not aware they are pulling) Think of yourself as a steel post imbedded in concrete or a large rooted tree. If you pretend to be a post or tree and stay rooted to your spot, In time, which may be as much as a couple of minutes, your dog will tire of pulling you and take a step forward to release the pressure.
Let the leash remain slack for a second or two and if he comes close to get the treat, let him have it. Move back and repeat.
Your patience will win you the battle of wills when your dog realises moving forward for a treat is way easier and more positive than pulling back on the leash. When your dog takes a step, praise verbally, and let him get the treat for moving forward.
If your dog moves forward but doesn’t reach for the treat, don’t give him the treat, just verbally praise and try again repeating the lesson. There will come a point where if you don’t give your dog the treat, and he wants the treat, he will reach for it.
When your dog is moving toward you willingly for the treat, start working with shorter leashes.
Once your dog readily approaches you and allows you to slip your fingers in the collar without shifting or moving backwards you can eliminate the leash.
