Free-Living and Fully Wild

28/07/2023

28/07/2023

I came to Mongolia to observe the only truly wild horse left on our fragile planet. Having gone extinct in the wild in the 1960s, the Takhi have been successfully reintroduced to the Gobi desert steppes through the hard work and vision of many people and international organisations. Without specialized breeding programmes at several conservation zoos, we would no longer have wild horses.

Observing several bands and family groups of Takhi in their ancestral homeland, living without fences or human interference, fully free to make all their own choices and decisions — to be the agents of their own destinies — was a rare privilege. Glimpsing how horses are (how they live, how they behave) when they are truly free is not only breathtakingly beautiful but provides a different way of understanding our domestic horses and their behavior, which I believe can lead to better welfare, better lives.

I hope to write more about this and share lots more photos and short videos soon. I am grateful to Learning Wild (Bonny Mealand and Emily Kieson), and to the International Takhi Group who sponsor and run Takhintal research station in collaboration with the Mongolian government and the herders of the Gobi Steppe.

The Takhi that now live wild and free in the Gobi B Strictly Protected Area number under 1000. The director of the research station at Takhintal told us that a minimum of 1000 mature individuals (3+ years) is necessary to stabilise the population, but they aren’t there yet.
Climate change threatens them (drier summers, harsher winters), as does pressure from domestic herding and mining. The Takhi are not out of the woods yet. If we fail them, if we are unable to protect their habitat, we will lose an incredibly precious taonga (sacred treasure). They are the sacred heart of the Mongolian people.

24/07/2023

21/07/2023

Bonny’s first video diary from our first day in Takhintal, the research camp in the Great Gobi B Strictly Protected Area… and our ger!

13/07/2023

We’ve been on the Gobi B Strictly Protected Area, for just one day. We’ve observed two wild Takhi bands — one that comes near camp regularly for water that flows from a bore, and most wonderfully (after a 4:15am start, a bumpy drive over the steppe in the early dawn and a short scramble up a rocky outcropping) we observed another band enjoying a splash in the river and a bit of relatively lush grazing. After a while as they were moving off, they noticed us and quickened their pace. A bit sad we disturbed them. They are beautiful and living their best lives out here in their ancestral home.

05/07/2023

Only 3 sleeps til Mongolia!

Our next Learning Wild Course starts on the 9th! We are very excited to invite you to join the first-ever Learning Wild trip to Mongolia to observe and learn about the Takhi (Przewalskii) horses, the culture, and the rich biodiversity in which they live.

Sign up for a Learning Wild Course: https://equineintl.org/learning-wild-courses

01/07/2023

I spent countless hours pulled over by the roadside in Iceland these past several days, watching large and small bands of horses moving about and congregating in the landscape. Under mountains, in tidal estuaries, over vast pastures as even in heath and ancient lava fields, the horses of Iceland roam — some more freely than others but most roam quite widely, with minimal fencing, all of them with ample space and in large social groups.

I’ve spoken to several Icelanders about their relationship with horses. I’m not an expert, but I am impressed with the deep regard Icelanders have for their horses, including a fierce defence of their right to live as naturally as possible. No horse is started under saddle before age 4 or 5, all are turned out for many months of the year in large mixed herds. Even the riding school and trekking horses get frequent breaks and months of turn out every year. They don’t forget their training and come back to work refreshed and … happy.

The horses here seem happy!

There are no natural predators here, but I don’t think that is why they have such storied temperaments—calm, confident, unflappable. The horse trainers, trekking guides and horse farmers I’ve spoken to are all very clear: minimal handling as youngsters, living in large herds, able to develop healthy emotional and social lives — as horses, with horses. And even once started in “work” or training, they are not coddled or over-handled, or managed the way most domestic horses in other parts of the world tend to be.

Though I’ve yet to look these up, there are apparently some recent studies on the very low rates of gastric ulcers and colic amongst these sturdy little horses.

25/06/2023

A few more Icelandic horses, including a mare who had just delivered a foal. The farmer didn’t even know yet, that’s how new she was. Horses on the tidal marsh, horses up the mountain. They live large here, in great bands of their choosing.

24/06/2023

Hard to quantify my experiences with the horses of Iceland. It started with the driver who drove me from the airport to my hotel and explained that horses were knit into every Icelander's life, as essential as weather or books or fish.

Our guide on a food and culture tour told us of her life with horses on the farm where she was born and how she still goes every autumn to ride out into the highlands to bring the sheep in. The round up lasts for days; her cheeks were flushed and glowing as she told us how she simply makes a sheep noise to her favourite horse, and the horse will "take the rein" and find the sheep while she sits back and enjoys the ride.

My cousin and I went riding at a facility on the city fringe of Reykjavik, where kind people look after brilliant horses. These horses begin life slowly, are trained calmly and steadily, and receive a lot of turn out and down time on big paddocks far from their "working" lives. I rode a beautiful chestnut mare with ample flaxen mane, who had just come back from a 6-week break. She was calm, measured, curious and soft. I felt a level of communication unlike anything I've experienced as I learned to ask for and to ride the tølt. It was a conversation of body and breath, and the mare led me to competence quickly, with no fuss.

Today we ventured into the volcanic interior, and found horses dotted here, there, and everywhere — the verbs in a richly decorated manuscript.

These horses aren't feral or wild ... and not as free-living, in general, as the ponies of Eriskay. Yet, they feel less constrained by their circumstances, more able to express their natural behaviours than your average domestic horse. Playful geldings, soulful mares. Patient and clear and kind. So much more to learn...

14/06/2023

A specfacular day at Highland Wildlife Park in the Cairngorms, visiting the resident herd of Takhi (Przewalski Horses). It was mesmerising to watch them move across the landscape, grazing, dozing and interacting with each other. They share their huge paddock with a herd of European bison, red deer and several interesting birds.

Takhi are the horses I'll be going to see in Mongolia. It will be fascinating to compare this wild (managed) herd to the wild herds living without human intervention in their native habitat!

13/06/2023

Back on mainland Scotland now, having said a reluctant farewell to Eriskay. I’ve been doing a lot of writing and reflecting on my time there, which was powerfully eye-opening and hugely rewarding.

Visited with a dear friend yesterday and spent time with her lovely horses, who live good lives with lots of appropriate enrichment: friends, forage, freedom to move and lots of choice about the things they do with their humans.

I especially enjoyed taking a walk with this beautiful mare. I practiced some of my observational skills as I shared a little time with her.

Photo credit to Meg Henry, the best travel companion. I especially love our shadows in the golden morning light.

08/06/2023

This lovely young fella visited me up on the hill yesterday. After quite a long time just hanging out together, we had a conversation about my day pack. Once that was sorted, a moment presented itself and I had a sneaky scratch under his voluminous (and warm) mane.
These horses have such a good life, free-living on the hill most of year, occasionally spending time with their human families. Friends, forage, the ability to move about as they choose. It's pretty sweet. These ponies have come back from the brink of extinction through the hard work of a few dedicated people, and by virtue of the ponies' tenacity and their profound relationship to the land and the landscape they live in.
www.eriskaypony.scot

06/06/2023

So much to process after a long and remarkable day with the Eriskay ponies!

This morning I went up the hill alone and found one of the herd groups by following their hoof prints to find them in a sheltered gully. These ponies belong to people who live here, they go out on the hill in the warmer months, and are brought down nearer the village for the colder months of the year. They know people, have no reason to mistrust them and so when I approached and sat on a ledge at a respectful distance, some of them got curious and approached.

When we are in their sphere, they are always aware of us, even as they graze and move about. I began to see how subtly they communicate with each other, and was left to contemplate how my presence may have influenced their movements in the time I was with them.

Later we drove across the causeway to South Uist, where 3 stallions roam in a large area with access to the beaches and tidal areas. We stopped by the roadside and piled out to observe them. They munched away on the tidal mosses, bracken and sea grasses while we snapped their photos in the lovely late afternoon light. Eventually they got a bit tired of our attentions and moved off to higher ground, but not before I was asked to back off — I was standing on the track they usually take to cross the road, and one of the stallions moved me off. I can't describe how, exactly, except I felt the pressure to move and I moved before I could think twice about it. As soon as I shifted away from the track, everything went back to normal. The stallions passed quietly and headed up into the bracken.

It is great not only to see them roaming freely, but able to make all their own choices and communicate their desires, with real agency.

Thanks to the Eriskay Pony Society for permission to go amongst the ponies, and to Bonny and Emily for their wisdom and encouragement.

05/06/2023

So lucky to be here with the blessings of the Eriskay Pony Society, who have brought these ancient ponies back from the brink and allow them to live freely on a (huge, beautiful) range on the island.

Today we hiked up and over the hill and found a large blended herd grazing in small social groups. We observed them as they freely moved about the landscape which is their ancestral home.

It fills me with joy to see them living such unencumbered lives.

https://eriskaypony.org

And to Bonny Mealand and Emily Kieson of Learning Wild for their guidance and for making this possible, my thanks and gratitude.

04/06/2023

We are delighted to once again be back on the wonderful island of Eriskay, for our 5 day Learning Wild course. We cannot wait to get started tomorrow! 🐎

04/06/2023

The ponies had disappeared back over the hill overnight, so we decided to go out on a wildlife boat tour, hoping to catch a glimpse of the ponies on the far side of hill from the water. Success! We spied them on a hill near the nesting site of a pair of golden eagles. We watched as the ponies turned heel as one and galloped up the hill, slowing again to graze at the top. It's amazing how much ground they cover when grazing and how sure-footed they are on the rough terrain.

Earlier in the day, I went walking with one of my colleagues here, Zeshan, who is a keen bird-watcher and great at noticing and identifying plants of all kinds. We found a tiny little native orchid.

Ended the day at the AM Politician pub, right next door to the local cemetery. Absolutely delicious meals and great company, especially all the dogs who attended with their owners.

Bonny Mealand arrived today, after spending a night camping out in a remote area looking for a pair of Eriskay pony stallions. Tomorrow starts the official Learning Wild course!

03/06/2023

Arrived on Eriskay today … looked up from the kitchen window of my accommodation and there they were! Those tiny white dots on the hillside are Eriskay ponies. I counted 15 (with binoculars) including a couple of bays among the greys. Roll on tomorrow, going to climb that hill!

30/05/2023

Shared with permission from the amazing equine photographer, Ruth Chamberlain. Check her out on FB at Ruth on the Hoof.

I'm halfway to Eriskay, making my way round the world to start my adventure. Can't wait to see these sturdy little ponies in a couple of days!

Eriskay pony at the top of Ben Scrien🐴⛰️ The Eriskay pony is one of the oldest and rarest breeds in the UK. It is the last remnant of the western isles pony and survived extinction due to isolation by sea of Eriskay. It was utilized by the islanders until better connections were made to Uist and the Mainland. During this period, machines became more available replacing the work of the ponies, threatening their existence. These ponies are critically rare and hardly found outside the British Isles 🐴⛰. There were around twenty left in the world during the 1970’s, and due to the hard work of the crofters and locals, they saved the breed and formed the mother society and studbook (). Eriskays have a very dense coat that is shorter than most of our other natives, most likely an adaption for living by the sea. They are prized for their lovely temperament and willingness to work, which makes them an ideal family pony and working partner.
Eriskay ponies are categorised as priority by 🐴🌄 ©Ruth Chamberlain also known as Ruth on the Hoof. Any use of these images (including art references) and text must have prior permission from the author/creator🐴🐴
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15/05/2023

This is my first stop in early June ... and, hey! there's still room on this course.

We are getting very excited about our next Learning Wild experience, this time on the beautiful Isle of Eriskay!

Although our accommodation is now full, there is still the option to join us, and camp on the island - what better way to get closer to nature, while learning all about the natural behaviours of wild horses? 😊🏕

Join Dr Emily Kieson and Bonny Mealand from the 5th-9th of June, for an immersive experience - living alongside Eriskay ponies, and observing and learning from their natural behaviours. This is the ideal course for anyone who keeps horses, works with horses, or perhaps just wants to better understand them. 🐎

BOOK NOW: www.touchingwild.com/learning-wild-isle-of-eriskay

This course could not happen without our project partner, The Eriskay Pony Society - Comann Each nan Eilean, who manage the herd.

15/05/2023

https://www.facebook.com/learning.wild.global

Two of my destinations — the Isle of Eriskay and Mongolia — will be with Bonny and Emily from Learning Wild. Look at these beautiful Eriskay ponies. I can't wait to see them!

Learning Wild is owned by Touching Wild.

15/05/2023

Thank you for coming with me as I circumnavigate the Northern Hemisphere in search of horses and horse cultures this June and July 2023.

A trip of a lifetime for me, I'll be visiting the Outer Hebrides, Scotland, Iceland and Mongolia, looking for free-ranging, feral and fully wild horses to observe from afar and walk amongst.

The itinerary has been set by me; the encounters with equines are up to individual horses and herds. The friends I plan to visit and the new friends I'll meet will certainly enrich what is an exciting set of equine experiences in some of the richest and most diverse horse cultures on earth.

This is very much a study and research trip, but also a chance to catch up with relatives, friends and people I admire — both two-legged and four-legged. I'll post when I can and look forward to sharing this adventure with you.

I fly out at the end of May. Keep an eye out for posts soon after.