Golden Hearts Dog Lovers Page

17/08/2024

03/08/2024

SOCIALISATION VERSUS SENSITISATION

A Facebook post has recently been shared which makes the following statement regarding socialisation:

"Feeding food and giving praise for looking at these things is NOT socialisation. It is sensitisation! We are actually drawing attention to these things, telling our puppies and dogs that these things mean something!"

It demonstrates a misunderstanding of sensitisation and classical conditioning, so I would like to clarify a few things.

HABITUATION
This refers to gradually becoming used to something through repeated exposure.

FLOODING
Full-intensity exposure to something scary. This can be deliberate, in the hope that the dog will overcome his fear, or it can happen inadvertently.

SENSITISATION
An increase in fear of a stimulus which is caused by repeated exposure to it, creating a negative conditioned emotional response.

SOCIALISATION
Socialisation should involve being introduced to new experiences, environments, people, animals, vehicles etc in a structured and controlled way so that the puppy is able to have positive experiences, which will build his confidence and resilience. It does not involve exposing them to anything and everything as quickly as possible, at full intensity. They need to feel safe in order to learn, which means a neutral level of exposure to help promote an optimistic outlook.

The big question is, how do we know which of these processes are occurring when we socialise our puppies?

The short answer is that, on the whole, we don't. Even with planning and management in place, we cannot predict when something might happen to startle or frighten our dogs, and what our dogs might be worried by. So, if we rely on habituation alone, it is a risky business!

Critical learning periods are still much-debated, along with the existence of fear periods, but it is generally accepted that there is roughly a 14-16 week window where puppies will be more inquisitive, naturally more resilient, and open to new experiences, after which, they will become less receptive, and the risk of sensitisation increases. However, this does not really take into account breed differences in terms of rate of physical maturity, whether they are genetically pre-disposed to fear, early experiences etc. There is no flag waving at the finish line to denote when puppies are entering the stage where they might become more sensitive. So, with this in mind, what can we do to help reduce the risk of our puppies becoming fearful?

Through the use of food, play, and praise, we can be proactive and help this process along through classical conditioning. Associations are being made and learning is happening all the time, regardless, so by pairing anything novel or worrying with something tasty or fun, we are not going to make things worse. Puppy hears a loud noise and startles? Follow it up with a tasty treat. Someone reaches out to touch them and makes the puppy jump? Increase distance and feed treats while they watch from a safe distance. Providing that we aren't putting our puppies and dogs in situations where they are unable to cope, we cannot increase fear by pairing something with food in this way. In fact, fear is more likely to occur if we do nothing.

When worry or fear of something already exists, habituation is very unlikely to happen. If we were to continue exposing the dog, even with the addition of food, the most likely outcome is that we increase that fear, through flooding. This is why we need to always aim for a neutral level of exposure, which means being far enough away to avoid eliciting a stress response. In order to achieve this, careful planning and management of the dog and his environment is essential. A stressed dog will not feel safe, therefore will not have the mental capacity to learn. Working below threshold at a pace dictated by the dog, in graduated baby steps , is the key to success.

We cannot increase fear by using food, providing that we aren't using it to coax and lure, therefore over-exposing our dogs, being too close to feel safe, or producing food before the appearance of a trigger. Nor will we make our dogs more vigilant or draw attention to things by adding food afterwards. If this were true, counter conditioning would not be a major component of behaviour modification. With the use of positive reinforcement to create pleasant associations, we can tip the balance of the scales in our favour, rather than waiting until a fear has taken root.

Changing emotional responses takes a lot of time, skill, and management, as per the image. So why wait until it is too late?

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01/08/2024

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24/07/2024

Allowing our dogs the CHOICE to approach something is key to how they will respond ---
If you want a positive outcome, never force a dog to say hi or approach.
Luring may SEEM like the way to go, but imagine a very scared and hungry dog and a person holding food in their hand. The dog may take the food but it does nothing to help that dog gain confidence.
In that situation, toss the food off to the side and behind the dog so there's no pressure. When the dog looks back in your direction, repeat. This way, looking at you is a positive association with no conflict.

23/07/2024

This week's GRCA Public Education Committee will help you spot a backyard breeder.

Signs You Can’t Trust the Breeder

It is a sad fact that ‘backyard breeding’ has become so widespread in recent years. The idea of making money on selling dogs puts the health and welfare of all those puppies at risk. The red flags are usually glaring, but a box of puppies can override the best intentions!

https://www.lugaruk9training.com/how-to-spot-a-backyard-breeder-11-red-flags-to-look-for/

23/07/2024

I NEED TO FEEL SAFE!

Like all living creatures, including us, dogs just want to feel safe – it’s a basic survival need.

When we think about feeling safe it’s natural to just think about not being harmed or being in danger, but it’s not just about physical safety - feeling emotionally or psychologically safe is just as important.

While physical safety may be obvious and simpler to address, emotional safety is far more complex and not always easy to recognise or identify.

The same applies to our dogs – they are sentient beings whose behaviour is triggered and driven by emotions.

So many behaviour problems that we see in dogs stem from the brain saying– “this is not safe!”

A dog that lunges and barks or behaves aggressively with another dog or person is probably doing so because they feel unsafe. They are trying to make the scary thing go away.

A dog that is guarding resources is doing so because they are afraid that the resource will be taken away – they don’t feel safe when another animal or person approaches that resource.

A dog that is reacting to fireworks or thunderstorms or other noises is doing so because they don’t feel safe. The same can be said for separation distress – the feelings of panic when left alone – “I am not safe!”.

Some dogs may never get over a specific fear, but doing all we can to help dogs feel safe in our world is one of the most important gifts we can give them.

Our first responsibility should not be about training, obedience or trying to change behaviour, but to focus first and foremost on building trust, self-confidence, resilience, creating a safe and secure base and being the person that our dogs can rely on and trust.

In the words of Dr. Gabor Maté - "Feeling safe is the treatment and creating safety is the work".

In my words (as it pertains to dogs) – It is our responsibility to put in the work to enable our dogs to feel safe and when they feel safe, this will be part of the treatment or the solution to the problem.

18/07/2024

Instead of asking, “How do I get my dog to obey me?” we should ask, “Is my dog happy?” and “How can I make them happier?”

18/07/2024

Please be careful this time of year with mushrooms! I try to get rid of them at our facility but they grow so fast. If you think your dog has eaten a toxic mushroom you should take them to an emergency vet immediately.

12/06/2024

Good to know!

30/05/2024

More great information from Dogs Disclosed!! ❤️🐾

*Dog Training and Behavior
*Puppy Training Packages
*Dog Walking
*Pet Sitting

DogSpeak Dog Training, Behavior and Pet Sitting

Serving Pasco, Pinellas and Hillsborough Counties

Kathy Longwell, Owner and Head Trainer
(727) 514-3633
https://dogspeaktraining.biz/

07/05/2024

Should all dogs attend training classes?

Would it surprise you that, as a dog trainer, I don’t actually believe that all dogs should attend training classes? While I also spend time teaching humans about dog behaviour in general, much of my work centers around running dog training classes and teaching dog owners how to train their dogs. My dogs are 7 and 11 years old and I still attend a training class once a week and spend quite a bit of time training them at home. So given all this, one would probably think that I encourage everyone who has a dog to “go to training”.

The funny thing is, I actually don’t – and this is despite regularly meeting dog owners on walks or in social settings who seem to feel obligated to sign up for classes when they find out what I do, as though I will disapprove of them as dog owners if they don’t! I don’t think I have actually ever met anyone with an adult dog that I have advised to take their dog to classes.

So, am I a dog trainer who doesn’t believe in dog training? No, not at all. I am passionate about training dogs and find it absolutely fascinating and incredibly rewarding to see dogs learn and have fun with their owners. Working with my own dogs is a source of joy and I can see how our working bond and the enrichment that training provides contributes to my own dogs’ emotional and physical wellbeing. I have absolutely no doubts that force-free, positive reinforcement-based training is absolutely fantastic and should be promoted far and wide – that is after all what I spend much of my time doing.

But the question here is not “can training your dog have fantastic benefits”, but rather “should all dogs attend TRAINING CLASSES”. There is a huge difference here and the reason for this post is that so often people view training classes as the answer to all dog behaviour problems:

Dog barks at other dogs – just take him to classes
Dog snaps at strangers – just take him to classes
Dog guards food or other items – just take him to classes
Dog is marking in the house – just take him to classes
Dog doesn’t come back when called or pulls on the lead – just take him to classes
Dog is afraid of loud noises – just take him to classes

You get the idea….

We really need to reconsider the purpose of training classes, what their aims should be and where their limitations lie. First let’s have a look at why they are not suitable for all dogs:

Group training classes consist of multiple dogs and owners coming into a controlled environment to learn training skills and specific exercises from an instructor. For a dog and owner to be able to learn anything in this environment, they both have to be reasonably relaxed, comfortable and able to concentrate. If the dog is anxious or frustrated being on-lead around other dogs or people, the dog will not be comfortable and will not be in a good space to learn anything. If the dog cannot ever be allowed off lead due to a history of inflicting harm to other dogs or people, the opportunity for learning is also reduced. If the owner is worried or stressed by the dog’s behaviour or the potential harm the dog could do to another dog or person, the owner is not in a good space to learn anything. The odds in this case of dog and owner working happily together in a group class and achieving much are not good. The likelihood of them increasing the stress levels of other dogs and owners in the class and making the environment less conducive to learning for others, is unfortunately rather high. Immediately, it can be seen from this that in general, group training classes are NOT the right environment for dogs with serious social problems.

What about problems the owner may be experiencing with their dog at home? Issues like resource guarding, urine marking, house training, destructive chewing, dogs fighting in the home, separation-related distress etc? Can training classes help with these issues? Probably not all that much. Teaching a dog to perform certain behaviours on cue in a different environment is unlikely to have much influence over struggles the dog is having at home. Unfortunately, many people still tend to view problems like these as matters of “disobedience” and I suppose that training classes are often sadly viewed as the way to instill “obedience”, so it is believed that if the dog is taken to class, he will become “obedient” and won’t perform “bad” behaviours anymore.

Today we know that behaviour problems like those listed above are not the result of a lack of “discipline” or “obedience” and are in fact evidence of a dog trying to maintain emotional homeostasis and avoid negative feelings. Dogs, just like us, do things to avoid feelings of fear, anxiety, frustration and loneliness. Dogs adopt coping mechanisms from natural behaviours like digging, chewing, marking and guarding as a way of feeling better when a need is not being met or something unpleasant has happened. Teaching a dog to respond to any number of cues on a training field is not going to address the root of the problem in situations like this. I do hope that this is clear.

So, what are training classes for? If they aren’t the best way to address social or behaviour problems, why do we even have them? This is where we need a fresh outlook and should lay to rest once and for all the old “obedience” mindset which has destroyed so many dog-owner relationships.
The following scenarios explain what I believe dog training classes should be about and why I am still passionate about offering them to the RIGHT dogs and owners for the RIGHT reasons:

You have a puppy and would like to provide an opportunity for controlled and healthy socialisation – please DO attend puppy training classes
You would like to learn how to communicate effectively with your puppy and learn how to protect and interact with her out in public – please DO attend puppy training classes
You have an adolescent or adult dog who is COMFORTABLE around other dogs and people and would like to build a stronger bond with him – please DO attend training classes
You have a dog who is used to being in a group class and would like to continue with training to have fun with your dog and spend quality time together – please DO attend training classes
You have a well-socialised dog bred for specific work and recognise that they need a lot of mental stimulation – please DO attend training classes

I think you see the pattern here. The main aim of training classes should not be to “fix” dogs, but to enrich the lives of dogs and owners. An owner who develops a strong bond with their dog through working together and having fun in class, will be less likely to have a dog that is unresponsive or insecure. They will be more likely to have a dog that is content and fulfilled. A puppy owner who invests time in developing their pup’s social skills and building their confidence in the outside world through puppy class attendance will be less likely to have a dog that has social problems. BUT classes should be used as the prevention and not the cure. If a dog is not used to a group class environment, adding this to try to resolve problems will likely only add stress to both dog and owner and won’t address the actual issue.

I also want to throw something else in here: Just because a dog does not attend dog training classes or participate in a dog sport does not mean the dog cannot be completely content, fulfilled and living a happy life. I think many people involved in the dog world believe that dogs that don’t attend classes are missing out and this really need not be the case. Firstly, many people I know work with their dogs at home. They do on-line courses and have plenty of training fun in their own time. Sometimes this may be because their dogs are not comfortable in a group class and they know better than to try and force their dogs into a stressful situation and sometimes it may simply be that they don’t have access to a good trainer in their area. I don’t believe for one second that their dogs are less fulfilled for not attending group classes. The fun and joy both dog and owner get from working together at home and on outings is more than satisfying for many dogs and owners.

Furthermore, there are dog owners who don’t do much training of any sort with their dogs, yet their dogs are also perfectly happy. There are people whose dogs go for long hikes every day, whose dogs get included in family activities and whose dogs have plenty of companionship and fun playing with their owners who I am pretty sure are not devastated because they don’t attend training classes!

Yes, I LOVE training and much of my work is about helping dog owners to be the best trainers that their dogs ever had, but I recognise that group classes are not right for all dogs. Yes, I thrive on training my own dogs and I do believe that this is a big contributing factor to the strong bond that we have and to their emotional and physical wellbeing, but I realise that happiness and contentment are found in other ways too.

01/05/2024

YOU CANNOT TRAIN A NEED OUT OF A DOG

I am a fan of training in general – which shouldn’t surprise anyone, because after all I am a “dog trainer”. In fact, I begin some sort of training with my dogs from the time they come home as little pups and I continue right into old age.

But perhaps that is because I view training as a way of building connection and providing enrichment, rather than a way of achieving control and “obedience”. Training is an activity that my dogs love and it is an opportunity to connect and do fun things together. Stopping training as they age, would be taking away an enrichment activity that they thrive on, so we keep going, simply adjusting to what they can cope with and what they particularly enjoy.

However, I am also a behaviour practitioner. I have been educated to view animals, not just as operant machines, but as creatures with rich emotional lives. I recognise the fact that behaviour is the expression of a need and the outpouring of an emotion. I believe that having this perspective and deeper knowledge of what drives behaviour makes me a better trainer, because I am aware that there is so much more than just observable behaviour to consider when working with any animal.

Unfortunately, people often use training as a way of making things look better, without actually making them any better on a deeper level – kind of like painting over the cracks in a house when its foundations are crumbling. It might look better for a while, but the entire structure is still unstable and at some point, it is bound to collapse.

Except it is far worse than a crumbling house, because dogs are sentient beings that deserve better than having their underlying emotions ignored. Trying to cover up signs of anxiety, frustration or deprivation by teaching polite behaviours is incredibly cruel and selfish.

Too often I see posts in positive reinforcement-based training groups where people are seeking advice to address a “problem” behaviour and, despite the very obvious signs that the dog in the post is struggling because a fundamental need is not being met, the advice given always focuses purely on training away the behaviour, rather than addressing the underlying need.

I find it incredibly sad and actually quite distressing, that so many dogs are desperately trying to communicate what they need and all supposedly knowledgeable people can focus on is how to stop them expressing that need – even if it is in a “nice” way.

Let me be clear, no amount of “training” is going to stop a dog from showing some signs of extreme boredom or distress, if you leave them alone daily for 8 – 10 hours. Dogs are social animals and you cannot train this out of them. A dog getting overexcited when they interact with you, if they spend hours separated from you outdoors or stuck in a crate, is NOT a training issue – it is a welfare issue. Long periods of confinement and isolation are detrimental to dogs – they were not built for this and trying to train them to accept it is fundamentally unfair. You also cannot expect a dog that never has any freedom of movement when out and about to walk “to heel” all the time. Dogs need to move, to run and to explore and expecting them to spend every walk on a 1 metre leash at your side with no tension on that lead as a means of exercise is completely absurd.

Dogs have fundamental needs for companionship, security, freedom of movement and exploration, among other things. You cannot train these needs out of them and trying to do so is incredibly unfair. Meeting your dogs’ emotional needs is how you go about building a strong foundation for their emotional and behavioural wellbeing, as well as your relationship with them. Training should be a means of enhancing and making that well-built foundation shine – not a way of covering up its cracks.

26/04/2024

Dogs experience deep emotions, but do they get angry? Canine experts answer "Is my dog mad at me"—and explain what you can do about it.

18/04/2024

Luring....phase it out as quickly as you can ⏱️✅.
There is also a VERY big difference between a lure and a reward.
Issues with luring can cause a whole lot of other problems when teaching a dog a new behaviour, trick or technique.
Don't get me wrong...it has it's place and IS helpful✅...the issue with luring is many people use luring for far too long.

So what's so wrong with that ?

Dogs that are constantly lured may have only learned how to follow a treat, and are so focused on that.... they can be unaware of what they are doing, how/where they are positioned and they are not able to problem solve.
They are driven by the lure......and that is all they have learned from luring.

They may not do anything (or even attempt to start) without the use of a lure. If you have this issue then it is highly likely luring has gone on longer than it should.
Treats and rewards are a great way to help a dog learn, but they do have to be used wisely and in the case of luring.....if it goes on too long, it will work against what you want to achieve.

If you present the lure when your dog has ignored your verbal or visual cue, this can inadvertently reinforce the belief that the sight of the treat or toy IS the actual cue to perform the behaviour…..luring isn’t as simple as it may sound.

Think shaping and breaking things down into smaller pieces, use a lure if you need to but move from a lure to a reward (given after) as quickly as you can.

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08/04/2024

IS YOUR COLLIE'S BARKING DRIVING YOU BARKING MAD?
Today's feature by our breed expert is on this very subject:

BARKING - WHY DO COLLIES DO IT, AND HOW CAN YOU STOP IT WHEN YOU WANT TO?

A common request we have from followers is how they can stop their dogs barking, or barking more constantly to the point where it drives them nuts. So hopefully this feature will help explain why collies – like most dogs – bark in the first place, and what you can do to better understand and control this behaviour in them.

Barking is an activity mostly confined to domestic - as opposed to wild – dogs, and also a behaviour that has been more deliberately enhanced in them, through past selective breeding, to suit a number of human purposes. Such as sounding an alarm when some sort of danger, or intruder, may be nearby, or signalling that the dog has picked up the scent of prey, or anything else another human may be trying to track. So it served, if you like, as the most basic form of canine-human communication.

However, dogs being the hugely adaptable creatures they are, have also learned that barking can serve other more personal uses or purposes. Such as the immediate gaining of attention from humans, or a way to physically release all the inner tension caused by feelings like anxiety, apprehension, fear, excitement, frustration or just boredom. And once a dog learns the kind of rewards attached to barking behaviour, they are going to want to keep repeating it.

LEARNED AND MORE MANIPULATIVE BEHAVIOUR
Collies can learn quickly, too, that barking secures them much higher levels of owner attention than they would have got if they hadn't barked. And from this early lesson they can then move on to barking, or more persistent whining, as a greater tool of owner control; i.e. not just getting them more attention, but also in pressurising owners to make them do something – like feed them, walk them, give them a toy - much faster than they would otherwise have done.

Dogs with poorer impulse control may also bark or whine at more potentially exciting moments – like meal or walk times – because they have a greater struggle in general containing their emotional states, and this is one way to release the inner mental pressure. They may also then learn that the barking/whining makes an owner act faster in giving them what they want.

Either way, It is important to see this behaviour for what it is, and as well as teaching your dog a ‘quiet’ command – covered a bit later – not giving the dog the reward they seek from this behaviour.

So if, for instance, your dog keeps barking or whining at mealtimes, immediately leave the kitchen – or wherever you usually feed them – and sit in another room doing something else, totally ignoring your dog in the meantime until he or she is quiet again. Do the same if your dog starts barking madly before you go out for a walk. Simply take off their lead, and go and sit in another room, and keep repeating this exercise until they are quiet again. Do not give them their meal or walk until they have sat quietly for you first. So they eventually learn that it is being calm and quiet that gets them what they want, rather than barking. Exercises like these usually only fail because the owner’s resolve gives up before the dog’s does.

BARKING WHEN OUT
Another common collie habit is to begin barking or whining the moment an owner stops to meet others, or talk to others, on a walk. Again this is simply a pressurising ploy on the dog's behalf to get attention back on themselves, and keep the walk moving on. And too often it is allowed to work! Or even escalate on to other pressure behaviours like nipping an owner’s feet or trouser hems. This behaviour is also a way a dog may externalise its own frustration at not being able to make the thing it wants to move, move or move faster.

I try to deter any behaviour like this in my own dogs from day one. First by teaching them a proper 'quiet' command (see end of this feature) as soon as possible, and also getting them to LIE DOWN and WAIT the moment they whine or bark when I am talking to another dog or person. Each and every time they repeat the behaviour they are made to lie down and wait even FURTHER AWAY from me than they were before, until it becomes totally counter-productive for them as a ploy on all levels. Do note however that for this to work best you will first need to have taught your dog more bombproof DOWN and WAIT commands.

ALARM BARKING
Some barking I will view as totally legitimate in my dogs. Such as when they sense some element of threat - e.g. someone posting something through the front door, or some noise in the garden. Too often owners will just keep shouting at dogs to ‘shut up’ when they are alarm barking in this way, which just makes them think YOU are barking TOO! Plus the threat is still out there, uninvestigated by you.

So if your dog is worried and barking about something they heard in the garden or outside the front door, make a big show of personally checking all this out yourself. Look very obviously outside the front door, or all round the garden, before praising your dog and saying very calmly something like "thanks, all OK now, settle down". It might seem a real bit of theatre, but it can also be surprisingly effective.

EMOTIONAL RELEASE BARKING
As highlighted earlier, more persistent barking in collies can also be a sign that they are under some kind of greater emotional pressure, which this behaviour allows them to better physically release and vent. They are anxious about something. Or afraid of something. Or just generally more over-stimulated/excited or frustrated. So the barking cannot stop until you better identify what is causing the mental pressure behind it.

One of the biggest problems for many owners is dogs who keep persistently barking when they are out, causing an ongoing noise nuisance for other neighbours. However annoying it might seem, it is also the sign of a dog in extreme distress, or going out of their minds with the ongoing pressures of confinement and boredom, and huge anxiety in dogs who are more excessively attached, emotionally, to their owners.

Different dogs may have different thresholds, in terms of how quickly they will begin this behaviour once you leave home, and it is important to recognise this. Many dogs can be taught to cope better with being left for shorter periods of time – e.g. two hours max – but others will more continually struggle, and may need the comfort of a dog minder if the barking is ever to stop.

TEACHING THE ‘QUIET’ COMMAND
To me the main issue with barking in collies is not that it occurs - as these dogs must be allowed some physical outlet like this when they are excited, or need to tell you about a potential threat - but that you can stop it when you need to. For this you will need to teach them a proper 'quiet' command.

Odd as it may seem, you first have to wait until your dog actually IS barking. Once this happens, hold some very tasty treats in your hand and let your dog see them. In order to eat these, your dog will first have to stop barking, as it cannot eat and bark at the same time. The INSTANT your dog stops barking in anticipation of a treat, say the word "quiet!", then immediately praise your dog and give them a treat.

Keep doing this every time your dog barks. It is also crucial to work up to ever longer episodes of your dog responding to, or complying with, the ‘quiet’ command before praising and rewarding them. Otherwise they may get into the habit of barking just to get a treat from you. And it’s essential that your dog learns they are being rewarded for staying QUIET, as opposed to barking.
After asking your dog to be ‘quiet’ for a while, you can then divert your dog into another activity, like playing with a toy, having a nice chew, or finding food or kibble hidden around the room or garden, to keep their mind off the barking activity.

The more you do this, and make being "quiet" a far more rewarding activity for your dog than barking, the less barking your dog should do. If this training fails it is usually due to timing; i.e. the "quiet" action, word command for this action and reward must initially all come very quickly together, or because you do not ever prolong the time a dog may stay ‘quiet’ before being rewarded, or your dog's impulse control levels are so poor they first need to be worked on before he or she can sustain any calmer activity for greater lengths of time.

Finally, be aware that more persistent barking in collies can also be a sign of them having insufficient outlets for their physical/mental energies, so this issue may also have to be addressed. Conversely, they may be being more persistently over-stimulated by activities that make them more physically excited/reactive, while making less use of their brains or powers of mental concentration.

More persistent barking in older dogs at seemingly 'nothing' often occurs as a result of more senile changes occurring in their brains.

Meanwhile, far more on the subject of barking, teaching dogs better impulse control and better managing their stress/reactivity levels in general appears in my books.
All text © Carol Price 2024
Carol Price collie books: In the UK from: https://performancedog.co.uk/product-category/books-and-dvds/authors/carol-price/ In the USA from: https://www.dogwise.com/ # and https://www.cleanrun.com/product/border_collies_a_breed_apart_book_1_secrets_of_the_working_mind/index.cfm In Canada from https://www.4mymerles.com/product-category/books/ In Australia from: https://gameondogs.com.au/ And in the Netherlands and Belgium from: https://mediaboek.nl/border-collies-a-breed-apart-book-1.html