Lundahl Performance

Lundahl Performance Performance coaching & training that transforms. 2-year-olds to bridle horses. Foundation to finesse.

The neck rein is more than just a button to point and shoot the horse in a direction. The way we develop it blends Guidi...
02/24/2025

The neck rein is more than just a button to point and shoot the horse in a direction. The way we develop it blends Guiding and Collection into one seamless feel. You apply the neck rein, and the horse simultaneously steers off of—and softens into—the bridle. Creates a real sense of connection, self carriage, and the horse's power and energy gathering into your hand. Cool feeling! It's a big reason why we love training bridle horses! ⚡⚡⚡

Years ago I was working as a loper for a successful cutting horse trainer in Oklahoma. His senior assistant, who was sta...
02/19/2025

Years ago I was working as a loper for a successful cutting horse trainer in Oklahoma. His senior assistant, who was starting all his two year olds at that time, is now an accomplished cutting trainer herself.

The first time I saw her work a c**t on the flag, I was taken aback. She was seemingly violating every rule of what I'd been taught was the "right" way to start a cutting horse.

For example. She would send the flag, wait until it broke past the point of the horse's hip, then draw the horse's nose through the turn with the inside rein. She was using no outside rein whatsoever. Nor was she trying to "load" the horse up or shift its weight before the turn. Just draw the nose and go. In conjunction with that, she was putting her cow side leg BACK and stepping the hindquarters away from the flag a little bit, to help the horse clear its hip and make the turn smoother.

I know a lot of trainers (and have worked for a couple) who would see that, and immediately start screaming and seething about how she was "washing the hip out to the outside" or “putting the horse on its front end”.

Later, I understood the wisdom.

I understood how she was allowing the horse to find its own balance, not having the hip in too far or getting too flat either. And not making the horse overly reliant on the rider holding or "wedging" them with the off side foot to stay up with the cow.

At the time, it looked weird. It looked like she was making the movements too disconnected and training the cow OUT of the horse. But in fact, it was keeping them relaxed and allowing them to understand what their job was. And – over time – naturally find that ideal "swoop" without too much setup or nitpicking.

Insights like this remind me how overly simplistic, shallow and stupid a lot of social media advice is.

You often see people making hard and fast declarations like,

"Never yield the hindquarters! Never step that hip away from the cow! It teaches 'em bad habits blah blah blah…."

Never say never. Some horses need it. Others feel "right" when they're working with the hip in more. It just depends on that horse's athleticism and whatever their tendencies are.

This is the bottom line:

Effective training requires a flexible, adaptive approach, not rigid adherence to dogma.

Poor advice limits you.

It creates a rigid framework that stifles creativity and adaptability. This is analogous to overly bureaucratic systems in any discipline, where unnecessary rules obstruct progress and flexibility.

It “fragilizes” you and your horse.

Good advice makes you anti-fragile; more dynamic and adaptable.

It frees you.

It gives you a better scope on the problem and multiple angles to address it, depending on the circumstances. It gives you options, instead of restricting.

That's important to remember because, we live in an era of shallow black-and-white thinking and mindless contrarianism.

You see trainers on social media all the time, barking about how you should,

"Never flex your horse"
"Never yield their hindquarters"
"Not use your outside leg in a turn"

"Not"
"Not"
"Don't"
"Don't"
"Never"
"Never"

These people are losers. They make hard and fast declarations for one of two reasons:

🚫 being contrarian for the sake of the algorithm to drive clicks and engagement

🚫 because they actually believe these things, which tells you something about the depth of their thinking and their training approach

In short, these are not serious people.

✅ Real mentorship gives you OPTIONS.

✅ Real mentorship FREES you.

Listen to those who give advice that frees you.

Tune out those who try to limit you.

-

✍️ Jake Lundahl

Everything should be made as simple as possible. But no simpler than that.
02/08/2025

Everything should be made as simple as possible. But no simpler than that.

12/30/2024

We solved the biggest problem in c**t starting.

As an owner, you are deeply invested in your c**t's future success. You want a trainer who respects that. Someone trustworthy who will care for your horse's mental and physical wellbeing — not crank them through a factory style process that treats them like a number.

You also live in the real world... where time and money are not infinite. You love your horse. You also care about results. The age-old question is, how to balance this equation? You want the best for your c**t. But you can't afford to just hand the trainer a blank check. "Take the time it takes"... sure... as long as it doesn't take forever!

And here's where things get murky — the TIMELINE question.

"Every horse is different", right? So how do you even know what you're paying for? What does 30, 60 or 90 days of training actually look like? What will your horse know? Where will they be at in two or three month's time?

Most c**t starters hesitate to answer. Often, for good reason. They haven't even met your horse yet, and they don't want to overpromise. It's nothing nefarious — they don't want to get boxed in by an arbitrary timeline, leveraged into a situation where they're accountable to a result the horse can't reach; and risk having to choose between disappointing you or over-pressuring a young animal who's not ready.

There's just one problem. Although trainers mean well when they avoid giving concrete answers, that still doesn't help you at all. In fact, it's low-key disrespectful. You're the owner. You're the one with the most skin in the game; the one footing the bill for all this. You're the one taking the risk of sending your horse off to a trainer, and forking over cold hard cash on top of that. If all the trainer can give you in return is "trust the process" and "we'll see how it pans out".... that doesn't feel right.

I think about that every time I see a social media post from a c**t starter, pleading with owners to soften their expectations. "Thirty... sixty... ninety days is not enough!!" they scream.

The question that always pops in my head is, "Not enough for what?"

I'm sure many horse owners are wondering the same thing. No one is saying their c**t needs to be finished, riding straight up in the bridle and qualifying for the Run For A Million in 3 months. This narrative smells like windmill-tilting to distract from a lack of results.

Trainers are getting way too comfortable scolding owners and tamping down expectations. But at what point do the trainers themselves get held to a higher standard? At what point do we stop moving the goalposts and become accountable to results? Things have gotten too lopsided. This equation needs balancing.

While I'm no Einstein... it doesn't take a genius to see the solution. It's deceptively simple:

We flip the script.

So instead of paying for TIME... you pay for RESULTS.

In other words, you get a program so proven that a certain set of milestones are GUARANTEED within a specific timeframe, without compromising your horse's wellbeing.

And if that timeframe needs adjusted, you don't pay a penny more. Because you're paying for the result that was promised, not the number of days your horse spends in our barn.

Now we have some skin in the game too.

"Impossible..."
"You'll go broke..."
"You're crazy..."

Nope. Certified 100% not crazy.

(as I'm typing this I just realized how crazy that sounds... lol)

Okay, but only in the best of ways😜

Still — for those thinking a pay-for-performance model like ours is impossible to uphold — I'll borrow a line from David Goggins:

"YOU DON'T KNOW ME, SON!"

We believe in our process enough to guarantee it. You pay for specific results — steering, stopping, yielding, confidence under saddle, loping on a loose rein, riding outside, and more — delivered on a timeline we lay out in advance and stand behind. If there’s any need to adjust the timeline, we foot the bill, not you.

Once you see how our program actually works, you realize it’s not “crazy” at all. Just a fresh, common sense approach in an industry where the status quo has gone stale.

The bottom line is, a horse who’s had two or three months of competent professional training should have certain core skills in place; skills you can see, feel, and verify. Skills that are mapped out in a well-defined progression that brings out excellence in both your horse's body and mind. Yes, every horse is different. But a good trainer adapts the "How", not the "What". The approach may change, but the fundamentals don’t.

If you agree, then let’s connect.

👉 https://www.lundahlperformance.com/c**t

This is the opportunity you've been waiting for — a simpler, more transparent way to set your c**t up for lifelong success. I’ll walk you through exactly how we do it, why it works, and the specific milestones your horse will hit. Instead of a giant question mark, you'll get a proven roadmap toward a future where everyone wins... most importantly, your horse.

I say that’s a future worth investing in.

👉 https://www.lundahlperformance.com/c**t

See you there!


𝑱𝒂𝒌𝒆 𝑳𝒖𝒏𝒅𝒂𝒉𝒍

10/26/2024

𝗛𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲 𝗱𝗼𝗲𝘀𝗻’𝘁 𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗽 𝗼𝗻 “𝘄𝗵𝗼𝗮”? 𝗢𝗿 𝗰𝗿𝗮𝘀𝗵𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗶𝗿 𝗳𝗿𝗼𝗻𝘁 𝗲𝗻𝗱 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗰𝗵𝗲𝗰𝗸𝘀 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗼 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘀𝗮𝗱𝗱𝗹𝗲 𝗵𝗼𝗿𝗻? 𝗛𝗲𝗿𝗲’𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗺𝗶𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻𝗴𝗿𝗲𝗱𝗶𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗯𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗲𝗿, 𝗺𝗼𝗿𝗲 𝗯𝗮𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗱 𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗽𝘀.

It’s a common problem riders deal with—the horse becoming front-end heavy, stiff, and unbalanced when asked to stop. Advice often boils down to "back them up" or "take the front end away." In the latter case, the exercises range from rollbacks on the fence to making the horse pivot or spin immediately after the stop; breaking the shoulders loose and eliminating that feeling of braciness against the rider’s hands.

𝗧𝗵𝗶𝘀 𝗶𝘀𝗻’𝘁 𝗯𝗮𝗱 𝗮𝗱𝘃𝗶𝗰𝗲... 𝗕𝗨𝗧... 𝗶𝘁'𝘀 𝗳𝗿𝗲𝗾𝘂𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗹𝘆 𝗺𝗶𝘀𝘂𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗿𝘀𝘁𝗼𝗼𝗱.

I’ll give an example.

Awhile back I saw a video that perfectly illustrated this misunderstanding. It was a trainer demonstrating how to correct a horse that stops heavily on the front end by turning the horse left or right to "take the front end away." She would drive the horse forward, and when it collapsed onto its front end during the stop, she'd pull it around into a cowhorse-style spin with the nose bent laterally.

At first glance, this seems logical. You're redirecting the horse's energy and getting those shoulders freed up, to address that stiffness and heaviness.

𝗕𝘂𝘁 𝗵𝗲𝗿𝗲'𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗯𝗹𝗲𝗺:

If the correction you’re making does not encourage engagement of the hindquarters and a committed shift of balance, then it's not addressing the root issue.

The fundamental problem isn't just stiffness in the shoulders; it's a lack of engagement in the hind end. In fact, you could make the case that the lack of hindquarter engagement is precisely WHY the horse has a bad habit of being unbalanced, stiff, and crashing forward in the first place.

When you ask your horse to stop, you want them to engage their hindquarters, coil up a bit, and get under themselves. This allows them to settle into the stop, soft and balanced. Even if you're not after a reining-style sliding stop, that engagement is crucial. It prevents those choppy, pogo-stick-slam type stops that are extremely uncomfortable for both rider and horse.

So if your correction doesn't create that engaged feeling—if it doesn't tie the cue of the stop (“𝘄𝗵𝗼𝗮”) to the right physical response in the horse's body (“𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗶𝗻 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗴𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗻𝗱”) —then it's meaningless.

In the video I saw, the trainer was pulling the horse around in a hurried, spastic turn with no balance and sloppy mechanics. While the horse was technically moving its shoulders, it wasn't truly loading up on the hind end or shifting its balance. It was just swapping ends before trotting out again. There was no real change in the horse's body, and no understanding of what the rider was after. It wasn't balanced or engaged in the right ways.

𝗦𝗼, 𝘄𝗵𝗮𝘁'𝘀 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝘀𝗼𝗹𝘂𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻?

One of the core exercises I teach to intermediate and advanced level horses in my program is called "Turning Around on the Foot." The name has a double meaning. First, it involves turning the horse around its hindquarters, much like a cowhorse or cutter-style turnaround, where the horse plants its outside hind foot and pivots around it. Second, this exercise requires bending the horse's nose toward your inside foot—so the horse is turning while its head is tipped inward.

But this exercise is more than just a pivot. The added bend draws the horse into the turn while encouraging softness and suppleness in the horse's body; this is controlled by the inside rein. The outside rein, meanwhile, “follows” the inside rein across the horse’s neck; creating indirect pressure and encouraging the horse to “coil” or “load up” into the hindquarters. It's a bit of a puzzle for the horse – challenging it to find balance and shift its weight back, so the shoulders can lighten enough for the turn. It's not an easy maneuver, nor is it meant to be rushed. The last thing we want is a hectic, pell mell Coke bottle spin. Instead, it's a methodical process: get soft, get gathered, and smoothly bring the shoulders through while staying stacked up on the back side.

You can use "Turning Around on the Foot" as both an exercise in and of itself, and a corrective tool for other exercises. If your horse braces up or gets front-end heavy during a stop, you can capture their energy and redirect it into this kind of turn. In doing so, you're teaching engagement by associating the stop cue with the desired feeling in the horse’s body.

In my program, we build this through a specific sequence of "Stop on Whoa" exercises. You ride along on a loose rein and, without pulling back on the horse's face, give the verbal cue to stop. If the horse doesn't offer a balanced and engaged stop, you draw them into a turnaround on the foot. This effectively tells the horse, "𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗜 𝘀𝗮𝘆 '𝘄𝗵𝗼𝗮', 𝗜 𝗻𝗲𝗲𝗱 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝘁𝗼 𝗴𝗶𝘃𝗲 𝗺𝗲 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗳𝗲𝗲𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗶𝗻 𝘆𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗯𝗼𝗱𝘆. 𝗢𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗴𝗶𝘃𝗲 𝗺𝗲 𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗦 𝗳𝗲𝗲𝗹𝗶𝗻𝗴, 𝘆𝗼𝘂 𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘁 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗿𝗲𝗹𝗶𝗲𝗳."

Through repetition, the horse begins to anticipate this and offer it sooner and sooner. They hear "whoa" and start to engage their hindquarters instantly. This is precisely the engagement we're seeking.

Once the horse starts offering that engagement, you can add light contact on the reins to provide a bit of extra security and immediacy in the stop. This builds their confidence, and before long, you have a horse that stops balanced and engaged, with a soft and loose front end— off little to no rein pressure at all.

What's critical here is that through the mechanics of drawing the horse around with that extra bend toward your inside foot, and the way we use our reins and legs, we're encouraging softness and pliability in the head, neck, and shoulders. Initially, especially if the horse is unfamiliar with the exercise or if you're correcting a particularly out-of-control stop, you might encounter stiffness and resistance. But by staying patient and maintaining the turn without releasing pressure until the horse shifts its weight properly and relaxes, you're teaching them the correct response. The feeling that you want becomes obvious and unmistakable.

When they do soften and become more pliable, that's when you release the pressure and reward them. Over time, the horse starts to anticipate this relaxation and shift in balance; preemptively fixing many problems that riders often try to combat with harsher bits, jerking or see-sawing on the reins, and lots of backing up.

The key is that this exercise (turnaround on the foot) needs to be methodical and thoughtful. We need to encourage suppleness and relaxation while simultaneously asking for that load-up into the hindquarters.

𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗰𝗹𝘂𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻

Correcting a horse that stops hard on its front end isn't just about breaking the shoulders loose. It's about creating a meaningful connection between the stop cue and committed engagement from the hindquarters. By focusing on hindquarter engagement and creating the right associations in your horse's mind and body, you'll develop a more responsive and balanced partner.

So the next time you’re on a horse that doesn't stop on "whoa" or crashes onto the front end, you'll know exactly what to do—and more importantly why you're doing it.

🖋️ 𝐽𝑎𝑘𝑒 𝐿𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑎ℎ𝑙

𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗶𝗻 𝗧𝗮𝗹𝗸 𝗔𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀I want to lay out a straightforward bitting system for those seeking clarity on what equipment migh...
10/24/2024

𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗶𝗻 𝗧𝗮𝗹𝗸 𝗔𝗯𝗼𝘂𝘁 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀
I want to lay out a straightforward bitting system for those seeking clarity on what equipment might best suit their needs. It’s a subject I’m passionate about because it’s a source of so much doubt and confusion among horse owners. There are millions of different opinions and options, and that endless complexity around what bit to start a horse in, or what bit to move into as they advance, can be intimidating. Instead of endless complexity, I favor a simple, proven progression that reduces headache and saves you money. Let’s break it down...

𝗦𝘁𝗮𝗿𝘁 𝗦𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗗𝗶𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁

In our training program, we start under saddle with a heavy emphasis on direct rein work. Think "follow your nose" and lateral flexion concepts. The cornerstone here is simplicity and directness. No leverage at all. I believe it's crucial that there's no complex pressure or mechanical advantage affecting the horse's mouth. This means using a traditional snaffle bit with a single joint—nothing fancy, just a direct connection that allows for clear communication.

Over the years, I've found that a loose ring snaffle (pictured) with a single joint is the most effective tool across a vast array of horses — well over a thousand at this point. These aren't the flimsy snaffles you might pick up at the local feed store. The ones I prefer are heavier and made of higher quality steel. The weight and quality of these bits not only makes them more durable, it has a positive impact on how the horse responds.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗱𝘃𝗮𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗴𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗮 𝗙𝗿𝗲𝗲-𝗦𝗹𝗶𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗥𝗶𝗻𝗴

One thing I really like is a free-sliding ring on the snaffle. This design ensures there's absolutely ZERO binding or twisting action when I apply pressure by picking up the reins. Fixed rings, like those on a D-ring snaffle, can sometimes create unintended leverage which I don’t need or want at the beginning stages of training. If I happen to be using a D-ring, I’ll often use rope reins instead of leather splits, with a small slobber strap that moves up and down on the ring when the rein is pulled; preventing any binding or leveraging action that might occur.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗮𝘀𝗲 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝗛𝗲𝗮𝘃𝗶𝗲𝗿 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀

Weightier snaffles (like the one pictured) seem to encourage horses, especially young ones, to hold the bit properly in their mouths. The added weight provides more substance for the horse to feel and carry, reducing behaviors like excessive chewing, chomping, or head tossing. Lightweight, cheaply made bits lack this quality. They can flop around in the horse's mouth, leading to irritation and distracted behaviors. This often leads horse owners down rabbit trails where they begin experimenting with different mouthpieces; dogbones, rollers, low port “comfort snaffles” for tongue relief…. trying to solve problems that can actually be solved through a combination of better training, better feel and timing, and a well-crafted heavier snaffle.

𝗠𝘆 𝗕𝗶𝘁 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗴𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻: 𝗙𝗿𝗼𝗺 𝗦𝗺𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗵 𝘁𝗼 𝗦𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗲 (𝗪𝗵𝗲𝗻 𝗡𝗲𝗰𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗮𝗿𝘆)

In my tack room, you'll find a simple progression of bits that I use depending on the horse's needs:

👉 𝗦𝗺𝗼𝗼𝘁𝗵 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: This is my go-to for most horses. It's straightforward and effective for teaching and reinforcing basic cues.

👉 𝗥𝗲𝗴𝘂𝗹𝗮𝗿 𝗧𝘄𝗶𝘀𝘁 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: If a horse starts leaning on the bit or developing resistance, I might step up to this. The twist adds a slight increase in pressure without being overly harsh.

👉 𝗦𝗾𝘂𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲: This bit has square edges instead of round, providing a more pronounced feel that discourages a horse from leaning.

For extreme cases—typically with problem horses that have ingrained bad habits—I have a 𝗧𝗵𝗶𝗻 𝗦𝗾𝘂𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝗧𝘄𝗶𝘀𝘁 (thinner than the regular twist, but NOT as thin as the twisted wire snaffles you often see in training barns) and, in the most severe situations, a 𝗖𝗼𝗿𝗸𝘀𝗰𝗿𝗲𝘄. Let me be clear: these are NOT bits I use lightly or frequently. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of times I've had to use the corkscrew in the past four years. They're tools for spot-treating serious issues, not everyday training.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗘𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗰𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗨𝘀𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗠𝗼𝗿𝗲 𝗦𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗲 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀

Using a more severe bit is a responsibility I don't take lightly. When a horse has learned to ignore or outright resist bridle pressure—usually due to previous mishandling—it becomes a safety issue. In such cases, a stronger bit can help re-establish respect for and responsiveness to the aids. But the goal is always to “get in and get out” – be effective, teach the lesson, then step back down to a milder bit once the issue is addressed.

I think where controversy arises is when people use severe bits as a shortcut, and leave them on the horse indefinitely. This approach can ruin the sensitivity in a horse's mouth over time, leading to a cycle where increasingly harsh equipment is needed to achieve the same effect. That's not fair to the horse, and it's not good horsemanship.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 "𝗡𝘂𝘁𝗰𝗿𝗮𝗰𝗸𝗲𝗿 𝗘𝗳𝗳𝗲𝗰𝘁” 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝗠𝗮𝗿𝗸𝗲𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗚𝗶𝗺𝗺𝗶𝗰𝗸𝘀

There's a lot of misinformation out there about bits, particularly the traditional single-jointed snaffle. Some argue that it creates a "nutcracker" effect on the horse's jaw bone or “spears” upward into the roof of the mouth. I remember being swayed by such claims early in my career. A salesperson demonstrated this by placing a snaffle over my forearm and pulling, causing discomfort. It was a persuasive, albeit misleading, demonstration.

But here's the thing: the orientation and pressure applied in that demonstration don't reflect how a snaffle bit actually works in a horse's mouth. When properly fitted and used, a single-jointed snaffle doesn't pinch the jaw or stab the palate. It's essential to understand the anatomy of the horse's mouth and the mechanics of bit pressure. Misleading demonstrations like this prey on our concerns for our horses' well-being, pushing us toward expensive equipment that may not be necessary.

I fell into that trap once, investing in a specialized bit that promised to solve all my problems. Initially, it seemed to work, but the issues soon resurfaced because the root cause wasn't the bit—it was my technique. I hadn't yet developed the skill and timing needed to communicate effectively with the horse. Changing bits was a temporary fix that didn't address the underlying training issues.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗔𝗹𝗹𝘂𝗿𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗤𝘂𝗶𝗰𝗸 𝗙𝗶𝘅𝗲𝘀 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗜𝗺𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗸𝗶𝗹𝗹

It's tempting to look for quick fixes when we encounter problems in training. Bits, being tangible and varied, often become the focus of our attention. We convince ourselves that the right piece of equipment will solve our issues. But more often than not, the solution lies in improving our skills and understanding.

I've seen trainers with tack rooms full of bits, constantly switching them out in hopes of finding the magic combination. To me, that’s a sign of someone who's run out of ideas. They’re trying to feel like they’re being productive, and are just throwing everything at the wall to see what sticks. But without addressing the fundamental training and communication between horse and rider, these efforts are largely in vain.

That's not to say experimentation is bad—on the contrary, trying different approaches can be valuable. But it's crucial to recognize when we're using equipment as a crutch rather than developing our abilities.

𝗘𝗺𝗯𝗿𝗮𝗰𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗦𝗶𝗺𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗰𝗶𝘁𝘆 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗲𝗿𝘀𝗼𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗼𝗻𝘀𝗶𝗯𝗶𝗹𝗶𝘁𝘆

Over the years, I've pared down my collection to a handful of bits that I know work effectively across a broad spectrum of horses. My favorite everyday tools are:

👌 𝗧𝗵𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝗧𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗻𝗮𝗳𝗳𝗹𝗲𝘀: Smooth, regular twist, and square.

👌 𝗧𝗵𝗿𝗲𝗲 𝗧𝘆𝗽𝗲𝘀 𝗼𝗳 𝗦𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗸 𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀: Short shank, low-port correction for transitioning; an Avila shank medium port correction; and a Jeremiah Watt “frog mouth” with roller.

This simplicity isn't just about economics—though I certainly didn't have the budget for dozens of fancy bits when I started! It’s mainly about effectiveness.

Each of the three snaffles represents a clear “step up” in the tactile difference and feel they create. There are clear enough contrasts between them, that it’s easy to decide which one is called for depending on the horse’s level of responsiveness.

Same thing with the shank bits. Aside from the short shank correction with a low square port – which is the universal bit that I use to transition every horse out of the snaffle – there’s enough tactile difference between the regular correctional and the frog mouth that it’s easy to know which one the horse will respond better to. Some horses are ready to move to the cowhorse bridle right away. Others stay in the correctional much longer before moving on.

Is there additional flexibility and experimentation allowed within this three-act structure? Of course. I have other bits that I use occasionally. But those 3 shank bits are the everyday staples. They form the core of our progression toward riding straight up in the bridle.

The bottom line is that every single horse I’ve ever put in the bridle – whether they were a reiner, cowhorse, or ranch horse – has responded extremely well to those bits after graduating from our snaffle program. The more experience I’ve gained over the years, the more I’ve concluded that the actual bit matters less than most people think it does. At that point, the horse is so well trained in a snaffle that you could probably put anything on them and get good results. The bit is just the icing on the cake, its the foundation proceeding it that makes the difference.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗪𝗼𝗿𝗱

I want to emphasize that this is what works for me. I'm not here to dictate that everyone must follow my exact system. Different approaches can be effective. However, be aware that while everything “works”, not everything WORKS. I encourage you to be thoughtful and critical about the equipment you use. Don't let marketing tactics or the allure of a quick fix divert you from developing your skills and understanding your horse.

It's easy to get lost in the myriad of options and opinions out there. I've been there myself, and I've learned that often the simplest solutions are the most effective. So, take the time to build a proper foundation with your horse. Focus on clear, direct communication. The bit you use is just one part of a much larger picture. I’ll sum it up by saying:

𝗕𝗶𝘁𝘀 𝗮𝗿𝗲 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹, 𝗯𝘂𝘁 𝗻𝗼𝘁 𝗮𝘀 𝘂𝘀𝗲𝗳𝘂𝗹 𝗮𝘀 𝗼𝗻𝗲 𝗺𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗸.

As a horseman, the best tools you have are your hands, your legs, and above all your brain!



🖋️ 𝐽𝑎𝑘𝑒 𝐿𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑎ℎ𝑙

10/24/2024

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗙𝗼𝗿𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱-𝗔𝗻𝗱-𝗔𝗿𝗼𝘂𝗻𝗱 𝗘𝘅𝗲𝗿𝗰𝗶𝘀𝗲
This exercise unlocks a level of responsiveness and balance that transforms everything from spins to circles, and teaches your horse how to correctly and effortlessly handle the neck rein. At the heart of it lies the concept of “compression”, a term I use to describe the essence of true collection and engagement on a finished bridle horse.

𝗨𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗿𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗖𝗼𝗺𝗽𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻
Before diving into the exercise, it's essential to grasp what compression means in this context. Think of it as a convergence of your horse's forward energy with the guiding influence of your reins— a blending of collection and steering that results in a balanced, responsive horse.

What we’re really talking about here is balance and quality of movement. The horse engages its hindquarters and drives forward while simultaneously accepting and softening into the contact of the outside rein. This combination of softness and direction creates a unique feeling of “uprightness”; where the horse is not just moving forward but is poised, balanced, and ready to execute advanced movements.

𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗜𝗺𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲 𝗼𝗳 𝗖𝗼𝗺𝗽𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻
Without the ability to create this feeling, riders often face common challenges:

👉 Leaning and Dive-Bombing the Shoulder: The horse drops its shoulder or dumps its weight to one side or another; leading to ugly, unbalanced turns and circles.

👉 Stiffness: The horse is heavy on the rider’s hands and ignores subtle rein cues, requiring lots of nagging corrections (“checking” their face nonstop).

👉 Lack of Impulsion: Movements lack power and engagement, making advanced maneuvers like spins or lead changes difficult.

👉 Inconsistency: The horse tenses up any time it feels rein pressure come on; instantly losing any correction or rhythm it had before the rider applied the aid. Horse has no confidence to accept the rider’s guidance.

Compression addresses these issues by ensuring that the horse's energy is channeled correctly—forward from the hindquarters and into a balanced frame that conforms and yields to the neck rein.

The Forward And Around exercise is designed to build compression in a straightforward yet effective manner. Here's how to execute it and why it's so impactful:

𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟭: 𝗘𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗯𝗹𝗶𝘀𝗵 𝗙𝗼𝗿𝘄𝗮𝗿𝗱 𝗠𝗼𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗖𝗿𝗲𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗮 𝗕𝗮𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗱 𝗖𝗶𝗿𝗰𝗹𝗲 𝘄𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗩𝗲𝗿𝘁𝗶𝗰𝗮𝗹 𝗙𝗹𝗲𝘅𝗶𝗼𝗻

Guide your horse onto a circle roughly 10 to 15 feet in diameter. Continue moving forward and around on the circle, while picking up on the reins and asking the horse to soften their face vertically. The key here is to create alignment. Imagine a straight line running from your horse's nose, down the center of its spine, and out behind the hind feet. Your goal is to try and keep the horse's body straight from nose to tail, even as his feet are moving around in a circle.

𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟮: 𝗣𝗼𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗬𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗟𝗲𝗴𝘀 𝗖𝗼𝗿𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗹𝘆

Inside Leg Back: Position your inside leg somewhere between the middle of your horse’s belly and the rear cinch; as far back or forward as needed depending on how responsive your horse is. Your inside leg’s job is to encourage the horse’s inside hind leg to step under the body, engaging the hindquarters and eliminating hollowness.

Outside Leg Forward: Keep your outside leg right behind the front cinch. Its job is to provide direction and prevent the horse's shoulder from drifting off the circle.

The goal is to create a “push/pull” feeling where the horse is simultaneously:

- Stepping their hindquarters up off of your inside leg
- Yielding their shoulders away from your outside leg
- Staying as straight as possible from nose to tail
- Maintaining forward motion and tracking on the circle

𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟯: 𝗗𝗼𝗻’𝘁 𝗙𝗼𝗿𝗴𝗲𝘁 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗬𝗼𝘂𝗿 𝗢𝘂𝘁𝘀𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝗶𝗻 𝗘𝘅𝗶𝘀𝘁𝘀
Maintain a soft but consistent contact on the outside rein—the neck rein. This is crucial. The outside rein acts as a guide, shaping the horse's energy and directing it around the circle. It's important that the horse feels actual pressure/contact on the neck rein and bit, and learns what it means and how to accept it.

𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟰: 𝗙𝗲𝗲𝗹 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗺𝗽𝗿𝗲𝘀𝘀𝗶𝗼𝗻
As your horse moves forward and around the circle, you'll begin to feel a gathering of energy, and a distinct sensation of balance or “uprightness” in the horse’s body. You’ll feel engagement in your horse’s hindquarters, and at the same time, a sense of lightness and ease with which they are turning their shoulders and following the circle. At the same time, the horse softens into the outside rein contact. The head and neck relax, the back lifts slightly, and there's a sense of the horse being light, responsive, and “in your hand”. Get good at creating this consistently.

𝗦𝘁𝗲𝗽 𝟱: 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗼 𝗔𝗱𝘃𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲𝗱 𝗠𝗼𝘃𝗲𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁𝘀
Once you’ve built this feel with your horse and can create it consistently, you can use it as a starting point and a refinement tool for advanced maneuvers:

👉 Spins: These become smoother and more controlled. The horse learns how to start the turn with more optimal mechanics and maintain a more balanced position themselves.

👉 Lead Changes: The horse allows the rider to have more refined control over their balance while maintaining forward motion, making lead departures and flying changes far easier.

👉 Circles and Steering: The horse circles and guides effortlessly (especially one-handed) while maintaining balance and impulsion; eliminating leaning, drifting and shoulder dropping. The horse becomes easier and more fun to communicate with because they’re engaged and accepting the rider’s signal, instead of ducking and hiding or resisting bridle pressure.

𝗔𝗻𝗮𝗹𝗼𝗴𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝗗𝗲𝗲𝗽𝗲𝗻 𝗨𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗿𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴
Sometimes, drawing parallels to stuff outside of horse training can help clarify things. Here are some analogies I use to describe the elements of “compression”:

👉 Impulsion – Like Torque in a Pickup Truck
Torque is not about speed but leverage – the power being generated to move effectively. A horse moves more effectively when it is collected; engaging its hindquarters, shifting his center of gravity and driving forward to meet the contact being applied to the bit. Speed is irrelevant. What matters here is impulsion; generating collection and lift.

👉 Direction – Like Hitting a Line Drive
Imagine you’re playing baseball or softball, and trying to swing the bat in such a manner that you hit a line drive straight up the middle of the field. To do this, you can’t just spin on your heel and twirl the bat really fast in a circle. Pulling off the ball results in a misdirected hit. You have to channel that rotational power in a more linear direction. Just like in horse training– it’s about aligning and channeling movement and energy in a particular way.

👉 Convergence – The Opposite of the "X-Factor" in Golf
In golf instruction, the X-Factor refers to the stretch or separation between the rotation of the hips and the rotation of the shoulders to generate power in the swing. When looking at an overhead photo of a golfer mid-swing, a line drawn through their shoulders and another line drawn through their hips will make an “X”. In horse training, when looking at an overhead view of a horse in the middle of a turn, a line representing the horse’s direction and a line representing the orientation of the neck rein pressure will also make an “X”. But unlike in golf, these forces are converging rather than separating.

𝗔𝗽𝗽𝗹𝘆𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗘𝘅𝗲𝗿𝗰𝗶𝘀𝗲 𝗔𝗰𝗿𝗼𝘀𝘀 𝗔𝗹𝗹 𝟯 𝗚𝗮𝗶𝘁𝘀
The Forward And Around exercise isn't just for teaching spins. And it’s not limited to the walk. As your horse becomes more adept, you can practice creating the same feel at a trot and lope. When your horse is really good two-handed, do the same exercise one-handed. Boom, you’re riding straight up in the bridle!

𝗕𝗲𝘆𝗼𝗻𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗘𝘅𝗲𝗿𝗰𝗶𝘀𝗲: 𝗕𝘂𝗶𝗹𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮 𝗠𝗲𝗻𝘁𝗮𝗹 𝗠𝗼𝗱𝗲𝗹
Understanding the idea of compression and the principles behind the Forward And Around exercise equips you with a mental model to diagnose and address tons of common challenges that intermediate and advanced riders face. When you recognize how certain movement patterns stimulate engagement, balance, and responsiveness in the horse – and you can create them consistently and on purpose – you’ve taken a big step toward mastery and made the connection between you and your horse much more seamless.

𝗙𝗶𝗻𝗮𝗹 𝗧𝗵𝗼𝘂𝗴𝗵𝘁𝘀
Forward And Around is more than just a building block for certain maneuvers; it’s a concept that integrates into every aspect of your riding. This exercise helps you build and reinforce feelings of responsiveness and self-carriage that engage your horse’s mind and teach them to move with greater efficiency and purpose.

Above all, it helps you create the signature feel of compression that in my opinion is the "holy grail" of bridle horse training.



🖋️ 𝐽𝑎𝑘𝑒 𝐿𝑢𝑛𝑑𝑎ℎ𝑙

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