10/24/2024
๐ฃ๐น๐ฎ๐ถ๐ป ๐ง๐ฎ๐น๐ธ ๐๐ฏ๐ผ๐๐ ๐๐ถ๐๐
I want to lay out a straightforward bitting system for those seeking clarity on what equipment might best suit their needs. Itโs a subject Iโm passionate about because itโs a source of so much doubt and confusion among horse owners. There are millions of different opinions and options, and that endless complexity around what bit to start a horse in, or what bit to move into as they advance, can be intimidating. Instead of endless complexity, I favor a simple, proven progression that reduces headache and saves you money. Letโs break it down...
๐ฆ๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ ๐ฆ๐ถ๐บ๐ฝ๐น๐ฒ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐๐ถ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐
In our training program, we start under saddle with a heavy emphasis on direct rein work. Think "follow your nose" and lateral flexion concepts. The cornerstone here is simplicity and directness. No leverage at all. I believe it's crucial that there's no complex pressure or mechanical advantage affecting the horse's mouth. This means using a traditional snaffle bit with a single jointโnothing fancy, just a direct connection that allows for clear communication.
Over the years, I've found that a loose ring snaffle (pictured) with a single joint is the most effective tool across a vast array of horses โ well over a thousand at this point. These aren't the flimsy snaffles you might pick up at the local feed store. The ones I prefer are heavier and made of higher quality steel. The weight and quality of these bits not only makes them more durable, it has a positive impact on how the horse responds.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐ฑ๐๐ฎ๐ป๐๐ฎ๐ด๐ฒ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฎ ๐๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ-๐ฆ๐น๐ถ๐ฑ๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ฅ๐ถ๐ป๐ด
One thing I really like is a free-sliding ring on the snaffle. This design ensures there's absolutely ZERO binding or twisting action when I apply pressure by picking up the reins. Fixed rings, like those on a D-ring snaffle, can sometimes create unintended leverage which I donโt need or want at the beginning stages of training. If I happen to be using a D-ring, Iโll often use rope reins instead of leather splits, with a small slobber strap that moves up and down on the ring when the rein is pulled; preventing any binding or leveraging action that might occur.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐ฎ๐๐ฒ ๐ณ๐ผ๐ฟ ๐๐ฒ๐ฎ๐๐ถ๐ฒ๐ฟ ๐๐ถ๐๐
Weightier snaffles (like the one pictured) seem to encourage horses, especially young ones, to hold the bit properly in their mouths. The added weight provides more substance for the horse to feel and carry, reducing behaviors like excessive chewing, chomping, or head tossing. Lightweight, cheaply made bits lack this quality. They can flop around in the horse's mouth, leading to irritation and distracted behaviors. This often leads horse owners down rabbit trails where they begin experimenting with different mouthpieces; dogbones, rollers, low port โcomfort snafflesโ for tongue reliefโฆ. trying to solve problems that can actually be solved through a combination of better training, better feel and timing, and a well-crafted heavier snaffle.
๐ ๐ ๐๐ถ๐ ๐ฃ๐ฟ๐ผ๐ด๐ฟ๐ฒ๐๐๐ถ๐ผ๐ป: ๐๐ฟ๐ผ๐บ ๐ฆ๐บ๐ผ๐ผ๐๐ต ๐๐ผ ๐ฆ๐ฒ๐๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ (๐ช๐ต๐ฒ๐ป ๐ก๐ฒ๐ฐ๐ฒ๐๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐)
In my tack room, you'll find a simple progression of bits that I use depending on the horse's needs:
๐ ๐ฆ๐บ๐ผ๐ผ๐๐ต ๐ฆ๐ป๐ฎ๐ณ๐ณ๐น๐ฒ: This is my go-to for most horses. It's straightforward and effective for teaching and reinforcing basic cues.
๐ ๐ฅ๐ฒ๐ด๐๐น๐ฎ๐ฟ ๐ง๐๐ถ๐๐ ๐ฆ๐ป๐ฎ๐ณ๐ณ๐น๐ฒ: If a horse starts leaning on the bit or developing resistance, I might step up to this. The twist adds a slight increase in pressure without being overly harsh.
๐ ๐ฆ๐พ๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ฆ๐ป๐ฎ๐ณ๐ณ๐น๐ฒ: This bit has square edges instead of round, providing a more pronounced feel that discourages a horse from leaning.
For extreme casesโtypically with problem horses that have ingrained bad habitsโI have a ๐ง๐ต๐ถ๐ป ๐ฆ๐พ๐๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ง๐๐ถ๐๐ (thinner than the regular twist, but NOT as thin as the twisted wire snaffles you often see in training barns) and, in the most severe situations, a ๐๐ผ๐ฟ๐ธ๐๐ฐ๐ฟ๐ฒ๐. Let me be clear: these are NOT bits I use lightly or frequently. In fact, I can count on one hand the number of times I've had to use the corkscrew in the past four years. They're tools for spot-treating serious issues, not everyday training.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐๐ต๐ถ๐ฐ๐ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐จ๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ ๐ผ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ฆ๐ฒ๐๐ฒ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐๐ถ๐๐
Using a more severe bit is a responsibility I don't take lightly. When a horse has learned to ignore or outright resist bridle pressureโusually due to previous mishandlingโit becomes a safety issue. In such cases, a stronger bit can help re-establish respect for and responsiveness to the aids. But the goal is always to โget in and get outโ โ be effective, teach the lesson, then step back down to a milder bit once the issue is addressed.
I think where controversy arises is when people use severe bits as a shortcut, and leave them on the horse indefinitely. This approach can ruin the sensitivity in a horse's mouth over time, leading to a cycle where increasingly harsh equipment is needed to achieve the same effect. That's not fair to the horse, and it's not good horsemanship.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ "๐ก๐๐๐ฐ๐ฟ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ธ๐ฒ๐ฟ ๐๐ณ๐ณ๐ฒ๐ฐ๐โ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐ข๐๐ต๐ฒ๐ฟ ๐ ๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ธ๐ฒ๐๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐๐ถ๐บ๐บ๐ถ๐ฐ๐ธ๐
There's a lot of misinformation out there about bits, particularly the traditional single-jointed snaffle. Some argue that it creates a "nutcracker" effect on the horse's jaw bone or โspearsโ upward into the roof of the mouth. I remember being swayed by such claims early in my career. A salesperson demonstrated this by placing a snaffle over my forearm and pulling, causing discomfort. It was a persuasive, albeit misleading, demonstration.
But here's the thing: the orientation and pressure applied in that demonstration don't reflect how a snaffle bit actually works in a horse's mouth. When properly fitted and used, a single-jointed snaffle doesn't pinch the jaw or stab the palate. It's essential to understand the anatomy of the horse's mouth and the mechanics of bit pressure. Misleading demonstrations like this prey on our concerns for our horses' well-being, pushing us toward expensive equipment that may not be necessary.
I fell into that trap once, investing in a specialized bit that promised to solve all my problems. Initially, it seemed to work, but the issues soon resurfaced because the root cause wasn't the bitโit was my technique. I hadn't yet developed the skill and timing needed to communicate effectively with the horse. Changing bits was a temporary fix that didn't address the underlying training issues.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐น๐น๐๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ค๐๐ถ๐ฐ๐ธ ๐๐ถ๐
๐ฒ๐ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐บ๐ฝ๐ผ๐ฟ๐๐ฎ๐ป๐ฐ๐ฒ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฆ๐ธ๐ถ๐น๐น
It's tempting to look for quick fixes when we encounter problems in training. Bits, being tangible and varied, often become the focus of our attention. We convince ourselves that the right piece of equipment will solve our issues. But more often than not, the solution lies in improving our skills and understanding.
I've seen trainers with tack rooms full of bits, constantly switching them out in hopes of finding the magic combination. To me, thatโs a sign of someone who's run out of ideas. Theyโre trying to feel like theyโre being productive, and are just throwing everything at the wall to see what sticks. But without addressing the fundamental training and communication between horse and rider, these efforts are largely in vain.
That's not to say experimentation is badโon the contrary, trying different approaches can be valuable. But it's crucial to recognize when we're using equipment as a crutch rather than developing our abilities.
๐๐บ๐ฏ๐ฟ๐ฎ๐ฐ๐ถ๐ป๐ด ๐ฆ๐ถ๐บ๐ฝ๐น๐ถ๐ฐ๐ถ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ป๐ฑ ๐ฃ๐ฒ๐ฟ๐๐ผ๐ป๐ฎ๐น ๐ฅ๐ฒ๐๐ฝ๐ผ๐ป๐๐ถ๐ฏ๐ถ๐น๐ถ๐๐
Over the years, I've pared down my collection to a handful of bits that I know work effectively across a broad spectrum of horses. My favorite everyday tools are:
๐ ๐ง๐ต๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐ง๐๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฆ๐ป๐ฎ๐ณ๐ณ๐น๐ฒ๐: Smooth, regular twist, and square.
๐ ๐ง๐ต๐ฟ๐ฒ๐ฒ ๐ง๐๐ฝ๐ฒ๐ ๐ผ๐ณ ๐ฆ๐ต๐ฎ๐ป๐ธ ๐๐ถ๐๐: Short shank, low-port correction for transitioning; an Avila shank medium port correction; and a Jeremiah Watt โfrog mouthโ with roller.
This simplicity isn't just about economicsโthough I certainly didn't have the budget for dozens of fancy bits when I started! Itโs mainly about effectiveness.
Each of the three snaffles represents a clear โstep upโ in the tactile difference and feel they create. There are clear enough contrasts between them, that itโs easy to decide which one is called for depending on the horseโs level of responsiveness.
Same thing with the shank bits. Aside from the short shank correction with a low square port โ which is the universal bit that I use to transition every horse out of the snaffle โ thereโs enough tactile difference between the regular correctional and the frog mouth that itโs easy to know which one the horse will respond better to. Some horses are ready to move to the cowhorse bridle right away. Others stay in the correctional much longer before moving on.
Is there additional flexibility and experimentation allowed within this three-act structure? Of course. I have other bits that I use occasionally. But those 3 shank bits are the everyday staples. They form the core of our progression toward riding straight up in the bridle.
The bottom line is that every single horse Iโve ever put in the bridle โ whether they were a reiner, cowhorse, or ranch horse โ has responded extremely well to those bits after graduating from our snaffle program. The more experience Iโve gained over the years, the more Iโve concluded that the actual bit matters less than most people think it does. At that point, the horse is so well trained in a snaffle that you could probably put anything on them and get good results. The bit is just the icing on the cake, its the foundation proceeding it that makes the difference.
๐ง๐ต๐ฒ ๐๐ถ๐ป๐ฎ๐น ๐ช๐ผ๐ฟ๐ฑ
I want to emphasize that this is what works for me. I'm not here to dictate that everyone must follow my exact system. Different approaches can be effective. However, be aware that while everything โworksโ, not everything WORKS. I encourage you to be thoughtful and critical about the equipment you use. Don't let marketing tactics or the allure of a quick fix divert you from developing your skills and understanding your horse.
It's easy to get lost in the myriad of options and opinions out there. I've been there myself, and I've learned that often the simplest solutions are the most effective. So, take the time to build a proper foundation with your horse. Focus on clear, direct communication. The bit you use is just one part of a much larger picture. Iโll sum it up by saying:
๐๐ถ๐๐ ๐ฎ๐ฟ๐ฒ ๐๐๐ฒ๐ณ๐๐น, ๐ฏ๐๐ ๐ป๐ผ๐ ๐ฎ๐ ๐๐๐ฒ๐ณ๐๐น ๐ฎ๐ ๐ผ๐ป๐ฒ ๐บ๐ถ๐ด๐ต๐ ๐๐ต๐ถ๐ป๐ธ.
As a horseman, the best tools you have are your hands, your legs, and above all your brain!
โ
๐๏ธ ๐ฝ๐๐๐ ๐ฟ๐ข๐๐๐โ๐
