K9 Manhunt & ScentWork Scotland

K9 Manhunt & ScentWork Scotland Mantrailing, Tracking and Scent Work offer your dog a fun way to use their natural talents. We cover Obedience training from puppies up. All breeds welcome.

Specialise in Reactive dogs and dogs with issues. We train the dog in front of us.

If you’re looking to deepen your knowledge of scent disciplines, my books are a great place to start. Introduction to Tr...
14/09/2025

If you’re looking to deepen your knowledge of scent disciplines, my books are a great place to start. Introduction to Tracking is perfect for beginners who want a clear, structured guide to understanding what tracking is, why it matters, and how to build a solid foundation with their dog. For those ready to take things further, Mastering the Craft: Tracking and Training goes beyond the basics, offering detailed insight into working in different environments, overcoming challenges, and truly honing the skills of both dog and handler. And if scent work is your interest, The Scent Starts Here: An Introduction to Scentwork provides a practical and engaging introduction to the world of odour detection, helping you and your dog unlock the power of the nose.

All three titles are written in plain, practical language, designed to be useful for pet owners, working dog handlers, and anyone with a passion for scent work. You can find them on Amazon or order signed copies directly through our website. And keep an eye out, my brand-new book, Introduction to Mantrailing, will be released very soon, opening the door to another fascinating scent discipline. Whether you’re just starting out or striving to refine your skills, these books will give you the tools and confidence to succeed.

The other day, when I asked for ideas for future articles, a recurring theme came up. Many people said their dog could w...
14/09/2025

The other day, when I asked for ideas for future articles, a recurring theme came up. Many people said their dog could walk beautifully on the lead in familiar areas, yet the moment they took it somewhere new, it pulled like a steam train. Others mentioned their recall was fine in the garden, but as soon as they reached a park or open field, their dog seemed to forget they even existed. This all comes down to generalisation, or proofing, a key part of training that ensures your dog understands a behaviour in every context, not just the safe, familiar ones. With that in mind, I’ve put together a training plan below to show you how to generalise and proof behaviours before you take them out into the big, distracting world.

Generalisation Training Plan for Dog Owners and Handlers

This plan is designed to help you take behaviours your dog already “knows” and make them reliable in the real world. The key is progressive exposure, patience, and proofing against different contexts.

Step 1: Pick Your Core Behaviours

Focus first on the “big five” every dog should generalise:
• Sit
• Down
• Place (go to bed/mat/target)
• Heel/Loose Lead Walking
• Recall

Step 2: Start in a Controlled, Low-Distraction Environment
• Teach or refresh each behaviour at home where your dog is relaxed.
• Use clear marker words (e.g. yes, good, free).
• Reinforce heavily, small, frequent rewards.

Step 3: Change the Picture Gradually

Dogs learn in pictures. Changing the environment changes the picture. To generalise, you need to teach the same behaviour in different pictures.
• Change location within the house: Kitchen, hallway, living room, garden.
• Change handler position: Standing, sitting, one step away, two steps away.
• Change handler appearance: Put on a hat, carry an umbrella, wear a coat.
• Change time of day: Morning training may feel very different to evening training for your dog.

Step 4: Introduce Controlled Distractions

Once the dog is consistent across different household contexts, gradually add distractions.
• Sit/Down: Practise when family members walk past, when the TV is on, or with another dog at a distance.
• Place: Practise sending the dog to the mat when the doorbell rings or while you prepare food.
• Heel/Loose Lead: Start in your driveway, then move to a quiet road. Keep distractions manageable.
• Recall: Use a long line and practise with mild distractions first (toys, another person walking nearby).

Step 5: Change Environments Slowly and Systematically
• Sit/Down: Practise in the garden, then on a quiet street, then at a café, then in a park.
• Place: Take the mat to a friend’s house, or use it in a training class.
• Heel/Loose Lead: Progress from your road, to the park perimeter, to the busier park centre, then to a busy high street.
• Recall: Practise in a bigger field, then in the park with dogs at a distance, then in gradually more distracting environments.

Step 6: Proof Against “Real Life” Situations

Proofing means rehearsing behaviours in situations where they’ll actually be needed.
• Sit/Down: Ask for a sit before crossing the road. Ask for a down while you stop to chat with a friend.
• Place: Practise sending to place when visitors arrive.
• Heel/Loose Lead: Practise walking past other dogs, children, or cyclists, rewarding focus.
• Recall: Practise calling your dog away from playing with another dog, or recall mid-sniff, using very high-value rewards.

Step 7: Vary the Rewards

Generalisation sticks better if your dog learns that rewards can change. Rotate between:
• Food rewards (high-value treats, cheese, chicken).
• Toys (ball, tug, frisbee).
• Life rewards (access to sniffing, greeting, playing).
• Praise and physical affection (stroking, verbal praise).

Step 8: Keep Sessions Short and Successful
• 5–10 minutes is plenty, especially in new environments.
• Stop while the dog is still motivated.
• Build success slowly rather than testing them to failure.

Step 9: Add the “Three Ds” of Proofing

When generalising, always adjust one variable at a time:
• Distance – how far you are from the dog.
• Duration – how long the dog holds the behaviour.
• Distraction – what’s happening around the dog.

Step 10: Maintain the Behaviour Long-Term

Generalisation is not a “one and done.” Keep reinforcing behaviours in a variety of contexts for life. Think of it as maintenance training.
• Refresh recall in new places weekly.
• Practise heelwork in busy environments.
• Reinforce sits and downs in everyday life.

Sample Generalisation Progression (Recall Example)
1. Garden recall (long line).
2. Quiet park corner, no dogs.
3. Park edge with one dog at distance.
4. Park centre with multiple dogs, still on long line.
5. Dog park at quiet time, off lead for short intervals.
6. Busier park, recall away from dogs, joggers, wildlife.
7. High-value recall “proof test” (call away from play, recall mid-chase).

Final Word

Generalisation is what turns obedience into reliability. It’s the difference between a dog that sometimes listens and a dog you can trust anywhere. By following this plan, gradually changing the picture, adding distractions, and reinforcing heavily, you’ll build a dog that understands:

Sit means sit everywhere. Recall means recall everywhere. Heel means heel everywhere.

That’s the essence of a truly trained dog.
www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk



When your dog disengages, ask why don’t just shout louder 🐾🐾
13/09/2025

When your dog disengages, ask why don’t just shout louder 🐾🐾

Resource Guarding in Dogs: Resource guarding is one of those behaviours that causes alarm bells to ring in many househol...
13/09/2025

Resource Guarding in Dogs:

Resource guarding is one of those behaviours that causes alarm bells to ring in many households. The sight of a beloved pet growling over a bone or stiffening when someone approaches their food bowl can be unsettling, even frightening. But before panic sets in, it’s important to understand what resource guarding truly is, what it isn’t, and how owners, handlers, and trainers can approach it calmly, safely, and effectively.

What Resource Guarding Is

At its simplest, resource guarding is a dog’s instinctive behaviour to protect something they value. That “something” might be food, toys, a sleeping spot, or even a person. It manifests as the dog communicating, “This is mine. Please don’t take it.”

Common signs include:
• Stiffening or freezing when approached.
• Hovering over the item (food bowl, toy, etc.).
• Growling, snarling, or baring teeth.
• Lunging or snapping if warnings are ignored.

This behaviour is rooted in survival. In the wild, resources such as food and safe resting places are limited. Guarding ensures survival. Domestication has softened but not erased those instincts.

What Resource Guarding Isn’t

Many owners misunderstand guarding and mistake it for dominance or spite. A dog guarding a bone is not declaring themselves “pack leader”, nor are they plotting to overthrow your household hierarchy. It is neither malice nor manipulation, it’s insecurity around losing something valuable.

Equally, not every growl or grumble is resource guarding. Dogs use growls as a form of communication. If your dog growls when another dog invades their personal space, that may be boundary-setting rather than guarding. Context matters.

The Owner’s Role: What This Means for Dog Owners

For dog owners, resource guarding can feel personal. It isn’t. Your dog isn’t saying they don’t love or trust you, they’re simply expressing, “I really want to keep this thing.”

Owners should:
• Stay calm. Don’t punish the growl. Punishment teaches the dog that warning signals are dangerous to give, and the next time they may skip straight to biting.
• Assess the triggers. Is it food? Toys? A favourite bed? Your attention? Identifying what’s being guarded is the first step to solving it.
• Create safety. Manage the environment to prevent flashpoints. For example, feed the dog in a quiet space where they won’t be interrupted.

Owners should not:
• Attempt to “prove a point” by forcibly removing items. This escalates conflict and erodes trust.
• Dismiss the behaviour as “just being naughty”. Guarding rarely resolves itself without intervention.
• Put children or other pets at risk. Safety comes first.

The Handler’s Role: For Dog Handlers and Trainers

For handlers and trainers, resource guarding is a behaviour to approach with balance, clarity, and respect for the dog’s emotions. The aim is not to suppress guarding but to change the emotional association the dog has with people approaching their resources.

Key considerations:
• Observe the threshold. How close can you get before the dog stiffens? This becomes your working distance.
• Use counter-conditioning. Teach the dog that an approach means something good happens. For example, when the dog is eating, toss a higher-value treat nearby. Over time, the dog learns that people approaching predict gains, not losses.
• Desensitisation. Gradually reduce distance, at the dog’s pace, pairing each approach with rewards.
• Clarity and consistency. Handlers must coach owners not to undo progress by sneaking items away “just to test him”.

What Not To Do

Across the board, whether you’re an owner, handler, or trainer, there are several golden rules of what not to do with resource guarding:
1. Do not punish the warning signs. A growl is communication. Punishing it is like removing a smoke alarm battery, it doesn’t stop the fire.
2. Do not use intimidation. Rolling dogs, shouting, or physically forcing them into compliance teaches fear and often escalates aggression.
3. Do not flood the dog. Forcing the dog to tolerate people handling its food or toys before it’s ready overwhelms them and worsens the behaviour.

A Practical Plan of Action

Step 1: Management

Prevent situations where guarding is likely to occur. Feed the dog separately, avoid leaving high-value chews around, and supervise interactions. Management reduces rehearsal of the unwanted behaviour.

Step 2: Build Positive Associations
• Start at a safe distance where the dog notices you but does not react.
• Toss something better (e.g., cheese, chicken) towards the dog while they have their resource.
• Retreat calmly. Repeat until your approach becomes a predictor of good things.

Step 3: Gradual Progression
• Over sessions, reduce the distance incrementally.
• Practise with different resources, starting with lower-value ones before moving to high-value items.
• Incorporate cues such as “swap” or “leave” using positive reinforcement.

Step 4: Teach an Exchange Game
• Offer the dog something of equal or higher value in exchange for the item.
• Praise calmly when the dog releases the item, then return the original resource occasionally so they learn giving up doesn’t always mean losing out.

Step 5: Generalise and Maintain
• Vary environments, items, and people involved.
• Continue rewarding throughout the dog’s life. Guarding is instinctive; ongoing reinforcement ensures progress sticks.

Long-Term Mitigation Strategies
• Routine and predictability. Dogs thrive when they know what to expect. Scheduled feeding reduces anxiety around food scarcity.
• Enrichment. Scent work, training games, and structured play fulfil biological needs, reducing the urge to guard.
• Rest periods. A tired but balanced dog is less likely to guard than one constantly wound up.
• Professional help. Severe cases, particularly those involving aggression, require input from an experienced trainer or behaviourist.

Final Thoughts

Resource guarding is a natural, instinctive behaviour, but in a domestic setting, it can become dangerous if ignored or mismanaged. The key is understanding: the dog is not being “bad”, it is being a dog. Owners, handlers, and trainers must approach the problem with calmness, clarity, and structure.

By managing the environment, reshaping the dog’s emotional associations, and respecting their need to feel secure, resource guarding can be mitigated and, in many cases, significantly improved. Above all, safety and trust must remain at the forefront. A dog that trusts you won’t feel the need to guard in the first place.
www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk



Correct early, correct softly, teach always 🐾🐾
12/09/2025

Correct early, correct softly, teach always 🐾🐾

At today’s Day School we had six dogs in, five familiar faces and one brand-new recruit who settled into the routine bea...
12/09/2025

At today’s Day School we had six dogs in, five familiar faces and one brand-new recruit who settled into the routine beautifully. A really lovely dog, he took everything in his stride and got stuck into the training alongside the others. As always, the programme was tailored to the owners’ requirements, covering the essentials such as loose lead walking, recall training, socialisation, and plenty of environmental work to build confidence and reliability. All in all, it was another good day in school, with every dog making solid progress.

This afternoon I had the pleasure of working with Zane, a 9 m old Labrador cross who has been with his owners for around...
12/09/2025

This afternoon I had the pleasure of working with Zane, a 9 m old Labrador cross who has been with his owners for around 3 months. They’re doing a wonderful job with him and it’s clear they want nothing but the very best. His owners are avid followers on Facebook and have even picked up a couple of my books, which I always appreciate. Today was about clarifying a few bits and pieces: we spoke about place training and how to take it to the next step with hand feeding, as well as giving Zane a proper job to channel his energy. He’s a lovely dog, full of character, and a very enthusiastic greeter of other dogs, so we discussed strategies to manage that and offered some practical training advice. I’m really looking forward to seeing how Zane and his owners progress over the next couple of months.

12/09/2025

Fear Phases in Dogs: What They Are, When They Happen, and How to Handle Them

Fear phases (often called fear periods) are predictable windows in a dog’s development when sensitivity to novelty, startle responses, and avoidance temporarily spike. Even the boldest pup can seem suddenly suspicious of bins, strangers in hats, or that same wobbling road sign they’ve passed for weeks without issue. This is normal. It’s not your dog “going backwards”, “being stubborn”, or “turning aggressive overnight” it’s neurodevelopment.

Below is a deep dive into what’s happening inside the dog, when these phases typically show up, and exactly what owners, handlers, and trainers should and should not do.

• What: Time-limited spikes in fear/avoidance to novelty, movement, sound, or social pressure.
• Why: Normal brain development, heightened amygdala reactivity, hormonal change, synaptic pruning, and shifting risk perception.
• When: Commonly around 8–11 weeks (first fear phase) and 6–14 months (adolescence). Large/slow-maturing breeds may show a further wobble 12–24 months.
• How to help: Structure, space, slow exposures, mark and reinforce composure, protect sleep, avoid flooding, keep life predictable, record progress.
• How not to help: Don’t punish fear, don’t “toughen them up” by forcing contact, don’t make a big fuss, and don’t test them “to see if they’ll cope”.

What’s Going On Inside the Dog?

1) Brain & Nerves
• Amygdala on high alert: The brain’s threat-detection centre is temporarily more reactive; neutral stimuli can look “spooky”.
• Synaptic pruning: The brain trims redundant connections and strengthens useful ones. During pruning, responses can be inconsistent day-to-day.
• Myelination & motor control: Coordination and sensory integration are still maturing; odd surfaces, sounds, or movement can feel overwhelming.

2) Hormones & Physiology
• Adolescent surge: In the second fear phase, s*x hormones and stress chemistry (HPA axis/cortisol) shift baseline arousal upward. Startle is bigger, recovery slower.
• Pain/teething growth spurts: Discomfort lowers thresholds; a tired, sore pup is less resilient.

3) Behaviour & Learning
• Risk calibration: Evolution favours a cautious adolescent. Brief avoidance now can prevent risky choices later, provided we guide, not overwhelm.
• Generalisation glitches: Yesterday’s “safe” object may be “suspect” today. That’s the phase talking, not a training failure.

When Do Fear Phases Typically Occur?

Ranges are approximate. Individuals and breeds vary, giant and guarding types often mature later.

1. First Fear Phase: ~8–11 weeks
• Often overlaps with rehoming and early socialisation. Novelty should be gentle, brief, and positive.
2. Second Fear Phase (Adolescent): ~6–14 months
• Frequently most noticeable around 8–10 months. Expect new sensitivities to people, dogs, dark silhouettes, machinery, and sudden sounds.
3. Late Adolescent Wobble: ~12–24 months (variable)
• More common in slow-maturing breeds. Short relapses in confidence around novel environments or social pressure.

What It Isn’t
• Not “dominance”. A spook at a bin isn’t a power struggle; it’s a nervous system doing its job.
• Not “stubbornness”. Hesitation, scanning, and slow approach are conservation of safety, not defiance.
• Not a reason to stop socialisation. It’s a reason to do it better: slower, softer, structured.

Recognise the Red Flags (and the Greens)

Green (workable): Brief startle → orients → sniffs → recovers within seconds; will take food and follow a known cue.
Amber (caution): Persistent scanning, tucked tail, refusal to approach, needs increased distance; slow to eat.
Red (stop & reset): Panic, lunging to escape, shutting down, vocalising, won’t take high-value food; repeated rehearsals at this level risk sensitisation.

Principles to Train By (Owners, Handlers, and Trainers)

The Three Cs
• Calmness: Your neutrality regulates the dog. Breathe, soften posture, speak little.
• Clarity: Simple, familiar cues; predictable routines; clean “yes/no” information.
• Consistency: Same rules, same recovery rituals, same decompression after exposures.

The Power of Four (to structure sessions)

Play → Rest → Obedience → Play Again
• Use play to open and close a session with optimism.
• Enforce rest between reps to keep arousal below threshold.
• Slot brief obedience in the middle (focus, hand targets, place).

Exactly What To Do (Step-by-Step)

A) Daily Framework (during a fear phase)
1. Protect Sleep & Routine
• 16–18 hours for pups; generous quiet time for adolescents. Reduce novelty if sleep debt accumulates.
2. One Novelty, Not Ten
• Choose one mild exposure per outing (e.g., stand 30 metres from a skate park). Quality over quantity.
3. Distance is your #1 tool
• Start where the dog can notice but cope (Green). If they won’t eat or can’t offer a simple behaviour, you’re too close.
4. Mark & Pay Composure
• Quietly mark look-and-disengage, soft body, sniffing, or a check-in. Reward with food or permission to “go sniff”.
5. Decompression Walks
• Sniffy, long-line mooches in low-traffic areas. Scatter-feed in grass. Scent lowers arousal and builds confidence.
6. Finish with a Win
• End on play or a simple success to leave a good emotional residue.

Micro-Protocols You Can Run Today
1. Treat-and-Retreat (for people/dogs at distance)
• Helper appears at Green distance → handler tosses treat behind the dog → dog turns away to get it → chooses to re-approach. Repeat, then very gradually shorten distance across sessions.
2. Look-At-That (LAT)
• Dog looks at trigger → mark → reward delivered back at handler’s knee. Builds controlled observation and disengagement.
3. Approach–Retreat Pendulum
• Take 3–5 calm steps toward novelty; if body softens, mark and step back; if tension rises, retreat earlier. The retreat is the reward.
4. Pattern Games
• 1–2–3 treat or hand-target chains to give predictable, regulating sequences in mildly stressful contexts.
5. Place & Park
• Teach a solid “place” on a mat; deploy it in cafés, car parks, or class edges to reduce incidental load.

C) Socialisation (Fear-Phase Edition)
• Curate, don’t collect: Controlled exposures to well-mannered dogs and environmentally stable people; avoid busy dog parks or chaotic meet-and-greets.
• Observe thresholds: If greetings happen, keep them brief, neutral, and opt-out friendly.
• Surfaces & Sounds: Start with low intensity; rubber mats before metal grates; distant fireworks sounds at whisper volume before louder sessions.

What Not To Do
• Don’t flood. Forcing contact (“He has to get used to it”) cements fear.
• Don’t punish fear. Corrections for startle, cowering, or barking add threat to threat.
• Don’t over-reassure with fuss. Big, sugary comfort can mark the moment as special or keep arousal high. Be calm, matter-of-fact; reward behavioural change (turning away, softening, checking in), not the outward display of worry.
• Don’t “test” your dog. Repeatedly marching closer to see if they’ll cope teaches them you’re unpredictable.
• Don’t chase timelines. Brew the dog you have; some need weeks, others days.

Handling Specific Contexts

Strangers and Handling
• Work at a distance where the dog can eat and think. Teach a chin-rest or hand-target as an opt-in signal for touch. If the dog opts out, you respect it.

Urban Noise & Movement
• Start with static observation posts far from the action. Pay for orient → disengage. Progress by minutes and metres, not by heroics.

Vehicles, Bikes, Pushchairs
• Use the approach–retreat pattern with predictable, single vehicles first (e.g., a helper pushing a pram), then add variability later.

Other Dogs
• Prioritise parallel walking on long lines. No face-to-face pressure. Reinforce check-ins and soft body. Keep sessions short.

Integrating Obedience & Life Skills (without adding pressure)
• The Five: Sit, Down, Heel, Recall, Place, run at easy success levels during a fear phase.
• Hand Feeding: Use a chunk of daily food for confidence games and nose work.
• Release Valves: “Go sniff”, “Find it”, and controlled tug can diffuse arousal if the dog is already coping.

Progress Tracking (so you know it’s working)

Log after each relevant exposure:
• Distance at first notice vs. workable distance.
• Latency to eat (how long to take food).
• Recovery time to baseline (seconds/minutes).
• One behaviour you reinforced (e.g., head turn, softening).
If those metrics improve week-to-week, you’re winning, even if today looked messy.

When to Pause & Get Help
• Generalised avoidance (many contexts) lasting >2–3 weeks despite good work.
• Escalating reactivity (lunging/barking) that doesn’t yield to distance.
• Pain suspicion: sudden behaviour change, gait issues, flinching to touch, see your vet.
• Household risk: children, frail adults, or confined spaces that limit management, bring in an experienced trainer/behaviourist.

A 10-Day Stabilisation Plan (Template)

Daily: One curated exposure (10–15 mins), one decompression walk (20–40 mins sniffing), one Power-of-Four micro-session (2–3 mins per segment), and enforced rest.
• Days 1–3: Observe & establish Green distances. Only mark and pay disengagement.
• Days 4–6: Add LAT and Approach–Retreat. Keep novelty low (same place, predictable times).
• Days 7–8: Slightly vary context (time of day, angle of approach). Introduce Place in mild environments.
• Days 9–10: Reduce distance by small increments if metrics are improving; otherwise repeat the last “good” day.

Final Thoughts

Fear phases are not faults; they’re features of a developing nervous system. Your job, owner, handler, or trainer, is to be the steady hand on the tiller: reduce load, control distance, reinforce composure, and keep life boringly predictable while the brain recalibrates.

Do less, better:
• Fewer exposures, better chosen.
• Shorter sessions, cleaner wins.
• More sleep, more sniffing, more structure.

Handled well, fear phases become powerful opportunities to teach your dog how to feel safe and how to choose calm in a noisy world.

www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk



Beyond the basics Tonight’s Beyond the Basics session was a brilliant one. We had 9 teams in attendance, including two b...
11/09/2025

Beyond the basics
Tonight’s Beyond the Basics session was a brilliant one. We had 9 teams in attendance, including two brand-new teams joining us on the basics. The focus of the evening was loose lead walking and work in close proximity to other dogs, alongside stooge dog exercises. We also worked on recall practice, where handlers placed their dogs in a sit-stay, walked past the stooge dog, and then recalled their dog back to them. There was plenty of duration work, obedience, and environmental training, all made more realistic by being held outdoors in the car park. Every single dog and handler rose to the challenge, the teams absolutely smashed it tonight.

You don’t need a perfect dog, you need a trained one 🐾🐾
11/09/2025

You don’t need a perfect dog, you need a trained one 🐾🐾

1/2/1 Training sessionThis afternoon we welcomed Connie, a 2.5 year-old Labrador, for a one-to-one training session with...
11/09/2025

1/2/1 Training session
This afternoon we welcomed Connie, a 2.5 year-old Labrador, for a one-to-one training session with her owner. Connie is a little anxious, somewhat reactive towards other dogs, and wary of men, with a few additional sensitivities in the mix. She lives in a busy household with two other dogs, one older and one younger, alongside two adults and four children. Although it’s certainly a lively home, it’s not chaotic, and the children are respectful, which helps maintain balance. What became clear, however, is that Connie simply doesn’t know how to respond appropriately to other dogs and people. In these situations, she looks to her owner for direction, but the guidance she receives is often inconsistent or unhelpful. I explained that the humans in the household need to take on a clearer leadership role, providing Connie with structure, boundaries, and calm authority, rather than allowing her to rely on them only for comfort or attention. By stepping up in this way, the family can help Connie feel more secure, reduce her reactivity, and teach her the right way to respond in social situations.

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Telephone

+447803925099

Website

https://k9manhuntscotland.co.uk/

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