Columbia River Doodles and Puppies

26/08/2024

Suitable for any dog, young or old, this fun training is designed to build confidence and focus, and provide an effective way to keep your dog fit and healthy through mental and physical exercise. Great for reactive, hyperactive, injured or shy dogs.

25/08/2024

How to Calm a Scared Dog
When helping a frightened dog, your first step is to stay calm.
By
Kate Basedow, LVT -
Published: August 23, 2024
0
Calm a scared shaking dog with a calm presence and soothing words.
When your dog is scared, your job is to provide a calm, safe space for her. Credit: wdj | Getty Images

It is heartbreaking to see your dog be scared and upset. To help your dog, stay calm yourself and try to make the situation less stressful for her if possible. Here are some strategies to use in the moment to comfort your dog.
Scared Dog? Stay Calm

You are your dog’s person, his caretaker and partner in life. When he is scared, he will naturally look to you for comfort. Your job in these situations is to stay calm and be his rock.

Talk to your dog in a slow, soothing tone. High-pitched baby talk can be tempting, but this may just exacerbate a fearful dog’s distress. Channel your inner Morgan Freeman to calm your dog. It doesn’t matter what exactly you say, but some easy options are to talk your dog through what is going on and what you are going to do next or use human panic attack strategies such as listing things in the environment that you and your dog can see, smell, hear, touch, and taste. Grounding yourself will help to ground your dog.

Keep your movements slow and fluid, avoiding jerking motions. Taking a few deep breaths can help you to physically relax, which in turn signals to your dog that he can relax.

Doing a “slow blink” when your dog is looking at you is a calming signal. This says to your dog, “See—I’m comfortable closing my eyes. There is nothing to worry about.”

Safety First

Quickly assess your dog’s safety—is she in a secure location? Does she have a well-fitted collar or harness and leash? Frightened dogs often bolt and are not thinking straight when motivated by fear. You want to prevent your dog from running into the road or disappearing into woods or your neighborhood.

While not a long-term solution, a slip lead is the most secure for these situations. If there is any chance that your dog can get out of her regular collar, you can create a makeshift slip lead by pulling the snap end of the leash through the handle to create a loop. Then place the loop over your dog’s head so that it will slide and become snug if your dog pulls or bolts.

The other plus to a slip lead is that you can make the loop large to carefully put it on a nervous dog without touching her. This is perfect for fearful dogs who may snap or bite if you try to grab their collar.

Offer Physical Comfort

Physical contact is beneficial for many scared dogs. Pet your scared shaking dog with long, slow strokes from head to tail. You can also gently massage her ears to promote relaxation.

If your dog enjoys cuddling, hold her close to your body so she can feel your heartbeat. Take slow, deep breaths to encourage your dog to relax and match your breathing patterns. These slow breaths will also help to slow your heartbeat. If your dog is not keen on being held, holding her may not be helpful.

If you do not know the dog that you are trying to comfort, proceed with caution. A scared dog may snap or bite if she feels cornered. If the dog becomes more agitated as you approach or reach for her, step back a little and break eye contact until she relaxes.
Distractions

You can use a variety of distractions to calm a scared, shaking dog. Treats are an excellent option if you have food available—many dogs love food and the act of eating provides comfort. You can use whatever food you have on hand as long as it is not toxic to dogs (save the chocolate to comfort yourself!).

You can also talk to your dog, engage her in play, or ask her to perform some easy behaviors that she knows well. When using training as a distraction, praise any effort that your dog makes. For example, maybe when she is relaxed she has a really reliable hand touch where she presses her nose to your hand. If she is scared, praise her if she even flicks her head toward your hand when you ask her to touch. Your goal is to make it easy for her to succeed and then tell her how wonderful and smart she is. Gradually she will focus more and more on you and less on whatever scared her.

Identify Triggers and Avoid

Whenever possible, identify what is causing your dog to be scared and get her away from it. Here are some examples:

If your dog is afraid of the running vacuum, take her outside or to another room where she can’t hear it as loudly.
If your dog is upset by construction noises outside, play classical music or put the TV on to help drown out the scary sounds.
If your dog is afraid of a person approaching on the sidewalk, cross the street or make a turn to get away from the person.
If your dog is scared of a dog running toward her, pick her up or place yourself between the two dogs as a barrier.

Shelter in the Storm

If you can’t avoid whatever is scaring your dog, try to provide him with a hiding place so he can feel a little more secure. This might mean putting a blanket over your lap so he can hide under your legs in his own private fort or moving out of the center of a busy crowd and finding a quiet spot against a wall so your dog doesn’t have to worry about someone sneaking up on him from behind. Crates are an excellent “safe spot” for many dogs.

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24/07/2024

Does anyone read all the articles I post here? I am only doing this site for all our owners, so let me know if this helps you at all, please.

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24/07/2024

08/07/2024

Never Regret Getting Your Dog!
I see a lot of regret and complaining posts which are valid but it is definitely discouraging for folks new to the community and seeing how other people handle their dog’s reactivity.
Walking reactive dogs is hard, it's stressful, it's tiring. Reactive dog owners I completely sympathise with you, but unfortunately many other dog owners just don't understand.
Trying to take your reactive dog(s) out at the quietest time of day, to the quietest places, in the hope you don't see as many people and dogs, but wanting to give your dog the walk they need.
Desperate to let your dog off the lead, but constantly having to watch where the next dog might be, because if your dog is seen off lead, even with good recall, so many owners just think this means your dog must be friendly so their dog is welcome to come bounding over.
Always dreading seeing an off lead dog, and when you do see an off lead dog, hoping they have good recall, hoping they won't come bounding over towards your dog, and hoping the owner will see your dog on lead and put there's on too. Then there's the pure panic if they do come towards you, no matter how calm you try to be, you know your dog won't cope in this situation, and it's nearly always your dog that's labelled as the one in the wrong.
Then there's the looks, the comments because your dog is "aggressive" when the majority of the time, they are just scared. Especially you owners with certain breeds - German shepards, staffies, mastiffs. But those of you with "small cute" reactive dogs are completely overlooked because no one thinks your dog could do damage, and it's funny when they're reacting.
There are some rainy days. But I saw a quote recently — things that bring you joy are not necessarily the things you enjoy.
Agreed but it is very much possible to turn this around. Look at Tackling Reactivity on https://spiritdogtraining.com/qf0x. Not a fix for everyone but a good perspective.
One day soon we will be able to walk past other dogs without a meltdown ❤️❤️‍🩹

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07/07/2024

Some good shampoos rated

Bathing your pet is probably not your favorite task as a dog owner, and your pet probably fights you every step of the way. This can be especially frustrating when you have one that loves to get dirty, which makes getting a deep-cleansing dog shampoo essential so that you can, hopefully, space out bath times by ensuring the coat stays clean for as long as possible.

Our guide covers everything you need to know to pick the right shampoo for your pet. You needn’t bathe your pup often. Every 1 to 3 months is sufficient, depending on the dog breed, and unless your dog makes it necessary by rolling it something they shouldn’t. Below, we’ve included reviews of our favorite products to help you pick the best one for your dog and their activity level, coat, and skin health.

The Hepper Deep Clean Shampoo lives up to its name with a product that gets your pup clean from nose to tail. It’s deep-cleansing and deodorizing, giving it an added value. You can also use it on the family cat to get the most out of your purchase. It’s made in the United States, and the shampoo has a strong initial scent that soon dissipates. The formula is also pH-balanced and free from parabens, soap, DEA, sulfates, alcohols, and synthetic dyes. All these features make it our pick for the best overall deep-cleansing dog shampoo.

The scent of TropiClean Deep Cleaning Berry & Coconut Dog & Cat Shampoo will transport you to an island paradise. The luxurious lather will get your dog clean while giving you a spa treatment for your hands. You’ll both smell fantastic! This product both freshens and conditions the coat. Plus, it uses aloe extract to help hydrate the skin and coat, as well as coconut to gently clean the skin while removing dirt and bacteria.

The shampoo is free from soaps, dyes, and parabens, so it won’t dry out your pup’s skin. The product comes in various sizes for pet owners and groomers alike, so if you fall in love with it, you can buy bigger batches to save some money, making it the best deep-cleansing dog shampoo for the money. With that said, the scent doesn’t seem to last too long after using it.

The Smith & Burton Puppy 2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo delivers the goods on several fronts. It has a delicate floral scent and is an excellent choice for young pups without being too perfumy. It is a deep-cleansing shampoo, although it is not tearless, so avoid getting it in your pup’s ears and eyes to prevent irritation.

Otherwise, the product softens your pet’s coat, leaving it feeling smooth. It does the same for your pet’s skin. It truly feels like a spa experience for your pooch!

This Hartz Groomer’s Best Professionals Deep Cleanse with Olive Oil & Fresh Water Lily Scent Dog Shampoo is a great bang for your buck. Better yet, it uses activated charcoal which is said to absorb toxins and odors, as well as olive oil to keep your pet’s skin and fur smooth, silky, and hydrated. It also has a pleasant scent that most people love. It is free from dyes, parabens, sulfates, and alcohol, meaning it is gentle on your pet. However, there have been some reviews stating that their dogs reacted negatively to this product, so always make sure to keep a close eye on your pet after using any new product, not just shampoo.

Wags & Wiggles Soothe Oatmeal Dog Shampoo takes deep cleansing to the next level. Your pup will enjoy the benefits of moisturizing and softening from the oatmeal. It will soothe your pet’s skin with its anti-inflammatory properties. The shampoo is economically priced, especially considering its size. You can use it on your dog even if you’re applying flea and tick products on your pup. You can apply it on puppies, although it’s not tearless. The results are excellent, giving your dog a spa day experience. However, since you can’t flip the bottle on either end, some reviews state this has slowed down bath time.

You’ll likely notice the broad spectrum of choices with dog shampoos. Many manufacturers produce specialized products for specific needs, such as skin conditions, detangling, and deodorizing. Many tick off several boxes, whether or not these functions appear in their names. The good news is an array of choices to take care of just about any issue you face with your pet. We suggest keeping these secondary uses in mind when shopping.

Some pet owners bathe their dogs too frequently because they don’t like how they smell. The manufacturers have responded with pleasant-smelling shampoos with long-lasting scents to appeal to people and their sensitive noses. You’ll find many other benefits if you look under the hood. Many features are deal-breakers, making the label worth a look.

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07/07/2024

The 6 Possible Reasons Dogs Kick Their Legs When You Scratch Them
1. Scratch Reflex

The scratch reflex is the official name for the reaction that occurs when you scratch your dog’s sweet spot, starting the frantic leg kicking. It is a natural reaction, similar to the one we have when the doctor taps just below the knee to test our reflexes.

According to experts, the scratch reflex occurs because your dog has a collection of nerve endings at that spot, and it is likely to be a natural reflex designed to help scratch and get rid of fleas and other pests that might be irritating.

Most dogs seem to enjoy the sensation and will lay there as long as you’re willing to keep scratching. Watch your dog’s body language to determine if they are enjoying it. If they look irritable or feel discomfort, stop scratching. If they look like they’re enjoying it, you can carry on because it doesn’t cause pain or harm in most cases.

There is typically a delay between your scratching and your dog’s kicking. This is the time it takes for the message to get from your dog’s nerves to their brain. Similarly, there’s another delay when you stop scratching. The kicking will continue for a second or two afterward.

If you scratch for a long time, the reaction might stop. This is simply because the nerves are worn out. However, the scratch reflex will return.

2. Pleasure

Most dogs love attention, and they enjoy being stroked and scratched. Not only do they enjoy the physical sensation of being scratched, but they also enjoy the release of oxytocin, which gives them a positive emotional boost.

Depending on where you’re scratching, you might be helping relieve an itch that your dog can’t reach. Although they can scratch their bellies, it isn’t as easy as scratching the back of the head, so you might be lending a hand in getting rid of the itch.
3. Encouragement

Dogs react to positive reinforcement. They will repeat actions that lead to a positive outcome or reward. Giving your dog a treat when they listen and sit down is positive reinforcement. However, dogs don’t just learn through intentional training.

If you’ve reacted positively to them kicking their legs when you scratch them, they may do so again just to get that same positive response. Effectively, your dog might be kicking their legs to encourage you to interact with them.
female owner giving healthy treats while cuddling with her jack russel terrier puppy at home
Image Credit: Prostock-studio, Shutterstock
4. Irritation

The natural scratch reflex is believed to have evolved as a response to fleas and other pests on your dog’s skin. Nerves feel the movement and biting of the fleas, and they transmit this feeling to the brain, which sends a message back to scratch and move the flea. Your dog might be kicking their legs because they’re irritated by your touch.

Tiny hairs around the belly, between the paws, and on the end of the nose can be especially irritable, and if you scratch or gently stroke these areas, irritation could cause kicking.
5. Surprise

If you scratch your dog while they’re sleeping or just zoning out, you might catch them by surprise. The kicking might be a natural response to warn you to back off. Try not to startle your dog when they’re sleeping. If necessary, speak to them when you’re walking over. This will give them a chance to respond appropriately to the attention.
owner scratching a dog in bed
Image Credit: Yavdat, Shutterstock
6. Pain

A dog doesn’t have too many ways to stop you from touching a painful spot. They can move, bark, or attempt to bat your hand out of the way with their feet.

Look for other signs of pain. If your dog scratches or bites the area frequently when you’re not stroking it, it could be a sign of pain. Look for redness, swelling, and even open cuts or sores.

If you’re in doubt and believe your dog might be in pain, have them checked over by a vet. They can conduct a more thorough check and determine the likely cause of pain.
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Do All Dogs Have a Scratch Reflex?

All dogs have a scratch reflex. It is a natural reaction typically used to get rid of fleas, ticks, and other pests. However, some reflexes are more pronounced than others, and many dogs will start kicking almost as soon as your hand goes near them.

Similarly, while the scratch reflex is typically found on the belly, that isn’t true of all dogs. Some might react to being stroked at the base of the tail, while others might react positively when given attention between the ears or at the base of the neck.

While the reflex has developed to address fleas and other nuisances, many dogs seem to enjoy being scratched on their sweet spot. This is because of the extensive collection of nerve endings in the area. It is a very sensitive spot.

However, not all dogs enjoy the sensation. Some will move out of the way; others might try to move your hand or stop scratching. Look at your dog’s body language to determine if they’re enjoying it.

Dogs have different ways of reacting to being scratched, depending on whether they like it. Kicking is a common reaction and is most often associated with finding the sweet spot on the belly and rubbing it. However, kicking is also possible when you scratch other areas, and possible causes include pain, discomfort, irritation, or surprise.

Check your dog’s body language to determine whether they’re enjoying the attention or whether you should stop. If you believe your dog is in pain, speak to a vet so they can determine the cause and treat it.

Burt’s Bees Care Plus+ Deep Cleansing Charcoal & Coconut Oil Dog Shampoo is another great choice if you want to give your pooch a deep clean. It contains both charcoal and coconut oil. The charcoal naturally pulls toxins and impurities out of the skin and coat, while the coconut oil helps to replenish moisture. It is also said to remove stains and brighten coats, especially for white dogs. Sadly, it doesn’t have a very strong scent, but it still seems to get the job done. Plus, the consistency is pretty watery, and it only comes in one size.

Send a message to learn more

07/07/2024

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How to Check a Dog’s Pulse: Steps & Facts (Vet Answer)
Husky dog lying on vet table with doctor and master near by

Image Credit: Pressmaster, Shutterstock
Written by: Dr. Rachel Ellison DVM (Veterinarian)

Last Updated on July 2, 2024 by Dogster Team
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VET APPROVED
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WRITTEN BY

Dr. Rachel Ellison

DVM (Veterinarian)

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.
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Misconceptions and Definitions

How to Check Heartbeat/Rate

How to Check Peripheral Pulse/Rate

Heartbeat/Rate Facts

Peripheral Pulse/Pulse Rate Facts

Many dog owners are unaware of their pup’s pulse. Do you know how to check it on your dog? Has your vet asked you to monitor pulse rate? If so, do you know a healthy range value for a dog’s pulse? In this article we’ll discuss some pulse concepts; what it actually is, some key facts about it, and how to check your own dog’s pulse. Being aware of these concepts is an important first-line step you can take at home as pulse can be an important indicator of a dog’s cardiovascular health. Dogster divider_v1_NEW_MAY_24_
Common Misconceptions and Definitions

One surprising aspect about the term “pulse” is that it is commonly made to be synonymous with the term heartbeat or heart rate. This is technically incorrect as these are actually different things, even though in an ideal situation the heart rate and pulse rate should be the same number! Together these concepts play into overall cardiovascular evaluation and health.

A heartbeat consists of the movement and sounds that the heart makes as it contracts and relaxes to send blood to the rest of the body. The vibrations of this can be felt, or it may be heard by auscultation with a stethoscope.
Heart rate is the number of heartbeats in 1 minute (or 60 seconds).
Peripheral pulse (may be shortened to pulse) is referred to as the regular, rhythmic throbbing movement in the arteries as blood is propelled through them. This is typically felt or seen in the periphery, such as a dog’s femoral artery. A peripheral pulse is a later ‘down the line’ result of the heart pumping blood.
A peripheral pulse rate would then be the number of pulses felt or times an artery expands and then contracts in 1 minute.

woman on bed with dog beside her
Image Credit: eva_blanco, Shutterstock
How to Check a Dog’s Heartbeat/Rate

Because of the positioning of the heart, the left side will be the easiest and best side to start on. This may be performed on a dog that is standing upright or one who is laying down with their right side down and left side upright. On the left side of the dog, place your hand along the lower body chest well, around the area where the front leg’s elbow meets the body wall. Once your hand feels knocking movement on the chest wall—this is a heartbeat. Now, count how many beats are felt in a 15-second interval (use a watch, timer, stopwatch, clock, phone, etc.). Then, multiply this number by four to get the heart rate which is the number of beats in 1 minute (60 seconds).
How to Check a Dog’s Peripheral Pulse/Rate

This may be performed on a dog who is standing upright or one who is laying down. To find the femoral pulse start with your fingertips on the inside of the dog’s back leg above the knee (stifle) joint. Move your hand up the leg until you are in the groin. The femoral pulse can usually be felt roughly in the middle of the leg in this area. When you feel movement or a pulse, this is blood moving through the femoral artery. Next, use two fingers, most often the index and middle finger, to feel for the pulse, not too strongly or too softly as you don’t want to block the blood flow or miss counting a pulse. Once you have found an appropriate pressure for your dog, start counting. Count how many pulses are felt in a 15-second interval (use a watch, timer, stopwatch, clock, phone, etc.). Then, multiply this number by four to get the pulse rate in 1 minute.
dog lying on his side
Image Credit: Ruth Laguna, Shutterstock
Heartbeat and Heart Rate Facts

The heart is an organ whose purpose is to pump blood. It consists of 4 hollow chambers (2 atria and 2 ventricles) and numerous valves that can open and close to allow for the movement of blood.
A Heartbeat is the movement of the heart during a contraction and relaxation cycle.
A heart murmur is an abnormal nose, such as a “whooshing” noise during a heartbeat. It may be benign or can signify various health issues.
In a normal dog, there are typically two heart sounds that can either be heard on auscultation (listening to organ sounds with a stethoscope) or felt via vibrations. The first heart sound (S1)—closure of mitral and tricuspid valves. The second heart sound (S2)—closure of aortic and pulmonic valves.
Normal heart rate ranges depend on the overall size of the dog. This can vary based on several circumstances, but generally speaking, the smaller the physical size of the dog, the faster their normal resting heart rate will be. Additionally, if a dog is excited, anxious, or has been exercising, it’s likely that their values will be higher than normal.

Some typical resting heart rate values are:

Small dog: 90–120 beats per minute (bpm)
Medium dog: 70–110 bpm
Large dog: 60–90 bpm

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Peripheral Pulse and Pulse Rate Facts

In dogs, the peripheral pulse is typically palpated at the femoral artery, but other arterial pulses in theory could be the caudal, dorsal pedal, radial, or sublingual arteries. Ideally, the heart rate and peripheral pulse rate should match and be the same number (see normal average values above). To determine this, both pulses (typically from the left and right femoral arteries) must be felt at the same time as auscultating the heart, which a veterinarian may do as part of their physical exam. A pulse deficit occurs when a heartbeat does not cause a corresponding arterial pulse. Simply, if there are more heartbeats and fewer subsequent peripheral pulses, this can be a medical concern. The most common cause of a pulse deficit is due to some kinds of arrhythmias, which are a class of abnormal heart rhythms. In the case of pulse deficits, atrial fibrillation (very fast beating or quivering of the atria) or premature beats (that result in the ventricles being unable to fill properly) are often to blame. Veterinarians are feeling for various peripheral pulse characteristics such as if the pulse is weak, bounding, brisk, thready, absent, etc. Each of these concepts can give clues as to certain medical conditions. For example, a weak (low) pulse pressure can be seen in certain cases of shock or heart failure while a bounding (fast) pulse pressure could be seen in cases of aortic insufficiency where the aortic valve does not close properly, or a defect of the heart called patent ductus arteriosus. A dog’s body condition can also come into play for a pulse/pressure. For example, an athletic, thin dog that is otherwise healthy may have a stronger than expected pulse pressure while a very overweight dog may have a weaker than expected pulse pressure. Context is everything, and a veterinarian will be weighing numerous variables such as history and all physical exam findings when evaluating the situation.
Veterinarian doctor is making a check up of a australian shepherd dog at clinic
Image Credit: Ermolaev Alexander, Shutterstock

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Conclusion

Knowing your dog’s normal heart and pulse rate can be a helpful component to understanding some vital signs that can correlate with their overall health. If you can monitor your dog regularly, when there are changes noted, this can be a clue that there is a potential health problem. If you’re worried about what you find, bring this to the attention of your dog’s veterinarian; it may warrant further investigation!

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07/07/2024

05/07/2024

This is always good to do, we just never know do we!

Disasters and emergencies are commonplace. Make sure you know the threats in your area and that your evacuation plan covers you and your pets.

04/07/2024

Is Savanna an overprotective or just rational dog mom? She weighs the evidence on helicopter dog parenting Penny.

04/07/2024

The most annoying part of walking your dog? A dog pulling on his leash — constantly! What dog gear and training can stop this behavior? Find out...

29/06/2024

Is Rawhide Bad For Dogs?

Dana Scott
Last Updated: March 8, 2024

Rawhide is one of the most popular chews for dogs … but just because it can keep your dog chewing for hours doesn’t mean it’s healthy. So … is rawhide bad for dogs?

The short answer is that rawhide can be really dangerous for your pets … whether you have puppies or an adult dog. Many dog owners aren’t aware of rawhide’s risks or poor quality control standards.

In fact, many dog owners still believe rawhide dog chews are healthy or even improve dental health for their pets.

So let’s take a closer look and get to the bottom of the question … is rawhide bad for dogs?
What Is Rawhide?

Rawhide is described as a natural chew … but it isn’t really a nice piece of dried beef skin made into shapes, as many people believe. A rawhide chew toy is made with leftovers from the leather industry … and here’s how they do it.
Meat Mixer Base Mix For Dogs
How Rawhide Chews Are Made

First, the hides from the slaughterhouse are placed into a brine to help slow their decay (it doesn’t stop them from rotting … just slows the process a bit). The hides aren’t only from beef …they can be from any animal used in leather manufacturing.
1. Processing

The brined hides are shipped to tanneries, where the fat and hair are removed. This is done using chemicals like an ash-lye solution, or sodium sulphide liming, which is highly toxic.

Next the hides are treated with more chemicals that puff the hide, making it easier to split into layers. The outer layer of the hide is used to make leather goods like car seats, clothing, shoes, or purses. The inner layer is what’s used to make your dog’s rawhide (as well as other products like gelatin, cosmetics, and glue).

Next, this inner layer is washed and whitened using a solution of hydrogen peroxide, bleach or other stronger chemicals. This also helps remove the smell that’s developed from the now decayed, rotten leather. (Remember, the brine only slows the decay – it doesn’t prevent it.)

In 2017, the FDA announced a recall of rawhide chews from Mexico, Colombia and Brazil. They’d been processed using a quaternary ammonium compound mixture that’s an anti-microbial chemical approved for cleaning food processing equipment, but is not approved in the US for production of rawhide chews.
2. Coloring

Now it’s time to make the whitened sheets of this leathery by-product look like something delicious for your dog. That’s where the decorative process comes in.

Rawhide chews can be basted with flavors, or smoked … and dyed in different artificial colors. They may even be painted with titanium oxide, which makes them look white and attractive.

Chemicals used in this process may include toxic products. One of them is FD&C Red 40, a petroleum-based food dye that’s linked to behavior disorders like ADHD in children, as well as allergies and migraines.
3. Preserving

Once rawhide chews or rawhide bones have been made, they’re preserved with various chemicals. These can include formaldehyde or chromium salts. When rawhide chews have been tested, they’ve shown things like lead, arsenic, mercury and other toxic metals as well.

The rawhides are made into many shapes … rolls, bones, knots, braids, donuts and more. Manufacturers may also use different types of glues in making these rawhide shapes.
Why Is Rawhide Chew Bad For Dogs?

There are two big reasons rawhide is bad for dogs: the chemical processing described above, and the risk of choking or intestinal blockage.

Chemicals You’ve seen from the above description of how rawhide is made, that there’s not much that’s “natural” about rawhide for your dog. It’s a piece of useless leftover animal skin … bathed, soaked and colored with countless toxic chemicals.

Most rawhide treats are made outside the US (often in China). If you shop carefully, you might be able to find US-made rawhide chews that aren’t chemically treated. But rawhide is still bad for dogs.

Choking Or Blockage Chemicals aren’t the only reason rawhide is bad for dogs. Rawhide chews are very indigestible and can often lead to choking, or blockages in the digestive tract.

If your dog swallows large pieces of rawhide, they can get stuck in the esophagus or lower in the digestive tract. It’s quite common for dogs to need emergency abdominal surgery to remove them from the stomach or intestines. Otherwise, these indigestible pieces can sit in the stomach for months without being digested.

This can cause digestive problems … and eventually create dangerous intestinal blockages. Eventually, these obstructions can lead to death if not removed.

Sometimes this type of blockage can be removed with endoscopy, but if the obstruction is too low in the digestive system, surgery is needed. So if you think your dog has swallowed a piece of rawhide that could be stuck, get to your vet quickly to avoid a potentially life threatening problem.
Is Dog Rawhide Good For Dental Health?

Rawhide manufacturers claim that chewing on rawhide helps clean and strengthen dogs’ teeth. But that’s not true. Rawhide chews start out hard, but as your dog chews, they get softer and develop a chewy, indigestible consistency. At that point, it’s not doing anything to help your dog’s teeth … but it’s still a big choking and intestinal obstruction risk for your dog.

Plus, even if rawhide chews were great for your dog’s teeth, they still wouldn’t be worth the risks. There are other ways to keep your dog’s teeth clean without posing a health risk.
How Long Does it Take for a Dog to Digest Rawhide?

Do you have small dogs? Senior dogs? A large dog?

Does your dog tend to bite off large chunks or small ones?

These factors can all influence how long it takes for your dog to digest rawhide.

As a general rule though, rawhide is notoriously difficult for dogs to digest due to its dense and tough nature. If your dog is able to chew it into small, manageable pieces, those pieces might pass through the digestive system in 24 to 72 hours. Yet, this is an ideal scenario and doesn’t account for the risks associated with larger, indigestible pieces.

Larger pieces of rawhide can pose a significant risk as they may not digest at all, leading to potential blockages in the intestines. These blockages can be life-threatening and may require surgical intervention to resolve.

But the concern with rawhide isn’t just about how long it takes to digest. There’s also the possibility that it might be digested enough to pass through safely. Especially if your dog is an aggressive chewer, and swallows larger rawhide bites of various shapes.
What Can I Give My Dog Instead Of Rawhide Treats?

There are many rawhide alternatives out there that are safer and healthier than traditional rawhide. Let’s look at some more digestible alternatives to rawhide that can still satisfy your dog’s chewing.

Recreational Bones The best kind of chew for adult dogs is a raw, recreational bone. Recreational bones are different from raw meaty bones given as food. Raw meaty bones are usually softer bones that your dog can completely chew up and swallow. These are an important source of protein, calcium and other minerals).

But, as the name suggests, recreational bones only provide entertainment and activity for your dog. They’re not an important part of his nutrition.

But in addition to giving your dog entertainment, they’ll also strengthen his jaw, neck and shoulder muscles. They’ll do a great job of cleaning his teeth as well.

So while he may get a few nutrients from meat or cartilage left on them … their main purpose is for entertainment and oral health

Dried Meat Products If you don’t want to give your dog raw bones, the next best choices for dog treats are natural dehydrated meat products. Examples of these are dehydrated beef trachea … or bully sticks that are made from bull pen*ses.

These won’t last as long as a rawhide chew. But they’ll give your dog some good chewing activity and they’re much safer and more digestible than rawhide chews.

Some dogs love chewing on elk antlers or deer antlers … but these are very hard and can break teeth, or even be a choking hazard.

Other options include manufactured “dental chews” made from various materials. These aren’t usually natural, and it’s doubtful whether they actually help clean dogs’ teeth. If you use these, just make sure they’re made from non-toxic ingredients that can’t harm your dog.
How Can I Make Rawhide Chews Safer For My Pet?

Rawhide chews are inherently risky. That’s why we recommend safer alternatives. But there are steps you can take to make rawhide products safer for your pet, if you still choose to offer them as a treat.

Firstly, source rawhide chews from reputable manufacturers. This alone will reduce the risk of chemical exposure. Look for rawhides that explicitly state they are free from chemical treatments, dyes, and preservatives.

Offering rawhide under supervision is another critical step. Never leave your dog unattended while they’re enjoying their chew. This way, you can quickly intervene if a piece breaks off that might cause choking or intestinal blockage.

Also, consider your pup’s chewing habits and size. Smaller, more easily digestible pieces might be suitable for gentle chewers. Aggressive chewers might need closer supervision or alternatives to rawhide.
Should I Avoid Rawhides Altogether?

We advise avoiding rawhide altogether. This is because of the risks associated with it (chemical exposure, choking, intestinal blockage, etc).

The process of making rawhide is fraught with chemical treatments, and even the “safer” options pose a risk if ingested in large pieces.

The safe alternatives to rawhide that we highlighted above can satisfy your dog’s need to chew without the associated risks.

You’re better off giving your pup recreational bones, dehydrated meat products, and other long lasting chews. These can keep your pup’s teeth clean and jaws strong without the dangers of rawhide.
Bottom Line | Is Rawhide Bad For Dogs?

Overall, rawhide isn’t worth the risk to your dog, however much he might enjoy it.

So next time someone gives your furry friend an enticing-looking rawhide “bone,” you might be better off taking it back to the pet store. Or just throwing it away.

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