TatsuZu K9 : Dog Training, Care, & Boarding

  • Home
  • TatsuZu K9 : Dog Training, Care, & Boarding

TatsuZu K9 : Dog Training, Care, & Boarding Operations Manager for Training Facilities, Dog Training, Boarding, & Care

29/12/2023

House breaking an adult dog and dealing with marking inside
(This is assuming the dog is vetted and UTI has been ruled out)

Potty in the house becomes a learned behavior, the more they do it, the more it becomes routine. They will just come in from outside and p*e on the floor. They will always p**p in basement or bedroom. We need to break the habit. To do this, it will be a pain in the ass, but worth it. For a few days, the dog will be either in a crate or tethered to you. They will not have the option to run off and do their thing. A lot of playtime outside helps during this time. You will also treat them like a puppy, reward for potty outside. Good dog! Here is a snack. After a weekend, the habit should break. If you can not keep them at your side, pop them in a crate.

As you feel you can trust them, you can let them off the leash. Try to stick to a some what going outside routine. Keep a very close eye on them, if they go to run off to their spot, leave it!, outside.

29/12/2023

How to Transport an As***le

The ideal situation is to have a secure crate in your car. Ask the owner to put a basket muzzle securely on. It has to be tight! Use two collars and two leashes. Have the owner load the dog up in the kennel.

If you do not have access to a muzzle. Have the owner load the dog up in the crate. When you get home, the ideal situation is to have a helper. Each of you will take a leash. Open the crate and let the dog come out. Keep a close eye on your leash tension! If the dog goes for your helper, you can stop them with the leash. If the dog comes at you, your helper can stop them as well.
With tethering vs using the crate. If you have to tether, try to connect it in two locations. For some of the "active" ones who spin to chase passing cars, they will twist themselves up so far, it can pinch them. Dealing with a hurt dog who is tangled up can be another story.

The majority of dogs will calm down once they are out of their comfort area. They do not have as much confidence.

29/12/2023

Feeding Time!

For feeding time, crate. It is the easiest and safest approach. There is no reason for you to mess with your dog’s food. I hate people touching my plate. Food is part of survival, basic instincts. Another dog should not approach while the other is eating either. So I crate and feed (with training some dogs know and eat in designated areas and don’t bother each other). To make sure food aggression stays low with people, offer treats. Each time you walk up to the crate while the dog is eating, throw a super good treat in the bowl. Your approach is a good thing. You don’t touch, you don’t take away, just add to it. You can adjust the distance of your hand as well. The kennel provides extra protection when evaluating. More or less, just let the dog eat. There are times you have to take food away, such as a dead fish they found by the lake. That is where “leave it” comes it. The command is so handy. If you have a dog who is more serious about guarding the food, leave it, then send them to their place. Pick up the object, put it up. Break them from place, and reward with a snack or fun game of tug.

Side note with bloat. No exercise an hour before and after their meal tends to help cut down on the odds. You can let them lay in the crate an hour after their meal if they are an active dog. Feeding raw 2x a day tend to also decrease the odds.

29/12/2023

Intro to the e collar for the walk, leave it, and recall. This is to be used after following the Leadership featured post.

I use the walks to introduce the e collar as well. It is used in place of the pop on the prong. This helps them realize it is connected to the word leave it, not a bee or something strange. It is important to use the e collar to back up the command. I typically teach on the prong collar, once the commands are known, the e collar is used to reinforce them. For example, preventing dog fights. You do not want to zap a dog who is already in a mood. It will just p**s them off more. Since we have already practiced listening with distractions on leash with leave it, they know what it means. I will say their name, leave it, followed by what I want them to do. Usually it is come, sit, break or sent to place for 10 seconds.

If you use the e collar, you might as well teach a good recall. A solid recall can save a dog’s life. The further a dog is from you, the less control you have. We are going to use a long line, 15’ or so, and the prong collar. While the dog sniffing about away from you, say their name then “come”. At the same time, give a small pop on the prong and guide your dog into you. Happy happy, even if you have to clap and take a few steps back. Reward once they are in front of you. Once they understand what come means, you then will vibrate on the e collar and say come. If the dog does not listen, you increase to a correction and give a more stern “come”. The e collar makes them realize, they still have to listen even if across the yard. The prong teaches the command, the e collar reinforces it.
I use the Dogtra Arc. I've had several clients happy with the PetSpy brand, it costs less.

29/12/2023

What to do with a dog fighting with another dog in your home.

First thing is to get control of the pack members. Follow the instructions in the featured post on leadership. Once you are able to walk the dog with no tension on the leash, we work on getting a truly solid “leave it”. You need to be the one in charge of all the dogs in the pack. You will be in control. The walk allows us to practice leave it at our discretion. You can get closer and closer to triggers while still maintaining control. This practices them listening when in an excited state. The goal is for the dog to remain neutral, and know what behavior is expected.

The first few days or so you will most likely want to keep the dogs separated. Walk walk walk. Once you feel they walk well on leash with distractions, it’s time to reintroduce them. There are a few options here, and it depends on the dog. This is the most common approach I use:

1. Place a wire crate in the living room or busy area with the other dogs. Have the leash and prong on the dog in the crate (you will be right there), with the leash through the create. When they start to think about barking at the other dog, leave it. Eventually, we just want them laying in the crate watching tv. This helps them relax around the other dogs with a barrier. After they are calm in the crate with the other dogs for several days, you can try letting them out. Then follow step 2.

2. Put the leash and prong on at first. In a wide open area, stand there with the dog. Let the others in. If the dog reacts, leave it. Some cases need to do short 5 minute sessions, then the dogs are separated again. The time both dogs are together increases while everyone is neutral. If the dog is excited and does not know what to do with themselves, you can work on basic commands with a treat reward. Perfect time to work on, watch me, place/break or a sit/down stay. If at any time they think about messing with the other dog, even just a look, leave it. If the other dog approaches them, and the dog tenses up, tell both dogs leave it. Both should turn away. After a period of time, they should realize you are in charge. They can’t not mess with the other dog, or you will step in. They respect the leader and peace is brought back to the pack.
Both of the options can incorporate a basket muzzle. Then it is phased out over time.

Why do dogs who have lived together for a long period of time fight? Pack dynamics can change. If you are not in charge, the dogs have to figure things out for themselves. This is when fights break out. If a dog does not know what to do instead of messing with their sibling, they will continue to mess with them. Think about letting 3 human kids just fight it out amongst themselves. Who knows what they will argue about. We do not want them to feel they have to compete over anything. You are in charge of keeping things fair. Another reason that comes up, is one dog is hurt while standing next to another dog. Bee sting for example. They will assume it came from that dog, then a vendetta is created. This can also be handled, in most cases, by having strict obedience on both of them.

Some random tips to keep in mind with a pack. If one dog even thinks about messing with the other, name then leave it. At that time, redirect them to what they should be doing instead of messing with their sibling. You don’t want to wait until one dog has to correct the other. It is your job to correct them and keep everything fair. With some working breeds, like Malinois, I do not let them play tug of war. Each dog wants to possess it, so they compete. The dogs should not be challenging each other. I will play tug with one dog at a time, that can be great fun for them. They just don’t play tug with each other. They are also not allowed to steal toys or share a food dish, that leads to resource guarding. When you see the dog just think about taking the toy from the other, name then leave it. You stop them while they are in the thought process. You don’t allow them to build up their “feelings”. When handing out treats, I say their name and give the treat. If a treat drops, “leave it” I pick the treat up and continue. No diving for it to see who gets it faster. If you see a dog posturing to guard a toy, leave it, toy gets put up for a minute. Give it back, if it happens again, stronger leave it and toy is put up till the next day.

29/12/2023

A walk is so much more than just a walk, it gives you the chance to establish leadership!

The walk is much more than a way to exercise. It is a chance to establish leadership. The leash is a vital tool. It connects you to their brain. It gives you means to communicate with your dog. Putting the dog in charge can increase anxiety and build reactivity. If you put the wrong Solider in charge of a platoon, it will bring a lot of stress to them. They don’t want to lead, now they have to. This causes dogs to be reactive. Many feel they are responsible for scaring things away. Think of when you are walking a child vs with your partner, who let's pretend practices MMA. With a child, you are watching your surroundings. You observe more and keep a look out. When you walk with a your MMA partner, you can relax. You can take their arm and let them lead. You want your dog to feel like you have the power to protect them. You are not the child on the walk. There is nothing to fear on walks, no one will get close, no reason to bark and scare things away, just relax and walk. I got you.
I use a prong collar with 90% of the dogs. Why, the prong mimics how a dog nips another dog. It is a way to make them feel uncomfortable when they are not behaving. Key point is the prong is NOT so the dog does not pull as hard. It is to give a correction when there is tension on the leash. We are using the prong as a tool to teach them to walk without pulling. Each and every time their is tension on the leash, they get a correction. The correction level corresponds to the dog and the current situation. Typically, it is a flick of the wrist, not much at all. It is a pop, not a pull. It must be each and every time there is tension to become habit. Positive only approaches can make the dog worse. If you do not correct the behavior, it can build. Redirecting is not correcting. Say your teenager comes home at 10:05, 10 is curfew. If you don’t give a correction, what happens next. 10:10, 15, etc. The level of correction needed varies. Some get their keys taken for a weekend, and done deal. Others end up needing jail time. The level of correction matches the dog. Say on a level from 1 to 10. You will start with say a 2. Some will need an 8, others a 4, some a 1. It has to be enough for them to think, so if I put tension, I feel uncomfortable. If I walk with no tension, we are both comfortable. Once the dog figures it out, they will always be aware of your body position so not to pull on the leash. It helps them see you as the leader.

When you start walking, try to find a quite area with little people and dog traffic. I walk in my neighborhood since I know where the quite routes are. This gives you time to just focus on the leash pulling. I don’t use a command at this time. Heel is to have them line up with my heel and walk formally. If the leash and your walking collar is on, no tension. It’s just how it is. Once the dog is good on knowing you don’t want leash tension, you can start walking in areas that are a little busier. I like going to the local large park. Lots of grass area, so I can adjust my distance to the active areas. On that note, at first, don’t let people come up and pet the dog. Many dogs do not want to be petted. I have dreads, oddly people ask to touch my hair.... no. Many dogs are the same way. They are not comfortable with strangers coming into their space, so they tend to bark to scare them away first. Neutral is the goal. I call it my mom bubble. Nothing will get you in the mom bubble. If you want to step out and greet someone, sure (as long as no tension on the leash). This allows you to give slack and let them approach. If they don’t want to, that is perfectly fine. You have the dog for you, not others. You don’t want the dog afraid around people because of the stress of worrying about will they pet me.

Once no tension is going well, so let’s work in “leave it”. Besides the dog's name, leave it is the command they hear the most. As you are increasing the distractions on yours walks, it is perfect timing to teach it. Grab a treat bag for this walk. As you are walking, if the dog sees a squirrel, bike, anything that makes them get excited. We are going to say leave it, and slightly pop the prong collar at the same time. If the dog looks away, yes reward with treat and keep walking. If the dog does not look away, you may need to repeat leave it, while increasing the level of correction. Do not try to calm them and say it’s ok. It is not ok for them to be acting like that, no reason for it. Do not reward unless the dog breaks focus on the distraction and keeps walking. It is best keep walking too. If you stop, the leave it is tricky. The dog does not know what to do with a super exciting squirrel over there. So leave it, and we keep walking. After the leave it, we show them what behavior we expect. Just relax and keep walking.

While on the walks, we have helped establish you lead and they follow. Leave it, timed with the correction, helps them learn to pay attention to your words. Your words have meaning. We create away for us to communicate with our dog. Working around the distractions helps them lean to listen, even when excited. The correction timed with the command will help remind them, leave it means leave it.

Address


Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when TatsuZu K9 : Dog Training, Care, & Boarding posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to TatsuZu K9 : Dog Training, Care, & Boarding:

Shortcuts

  • Address
  • Alerts
  • Contact The Business
  • Claim ownership or report listing
  • Want your business to be the top-listed Pet Store/pet Service?

Share