Norwegian Lundehund kennel 'of Vorkosmia'

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Norwegian Lundehund kennel 'of Vorkosmia' We are located in the North of the Netherlands. Export is possible. All our dogs get raw food, including the pups. We titer test the pups and do Puppy Culture.

You can contact us via PM or [email protected]

We often get questions about the raw diet we feed to our Lundehunds, so we finally sat down and wrote a piece about it. ...
30/09/2024

We often get questions about the raw diet we feed to our Lundehunds, so we finally sat down and wrote a piece about it. I am by no means an expert on food or nutrition, but I do love reading scientific reports about it.
I am *NOT* looking for a discussion about raw food. Everyone is free to comment and ask questions, but like I said, I'm not an expert and everything I have to say about this subject is covered in the text.

Feeding any dog a good diet is essential for their health. While there are dozens of different kibbles available, recent research has shown that 'no-grain kibble' could potentially cause DCM (dilated cardiomyopathy). This isn't due to the absence of grains but rather the high content of legumes in these kibbles. Legumes can block the absorption of taurine, and low taurine levels can lead to DCM. Therefore, grain-free isn't necessarily bad, but feeding a diet high in legumes (>20%) can be problematic. Legumes are high in protein, but animal proteins have a much higher biological nutritional value for dogs. So, when choosing kibble, don't just look at the nutritional information; also check the ingredients. But I digress; let's talk about raw food 😆.

Given that Lundehunds are prone to gastrointestinal disorders like IL, LS, IBD, and PLE, it's crucial to provide them with food that is gentle on their digestive system. If you decide to feed a raw diet, there are many options. You can create your own menu or use premade frozen raw mixes. Many people worry that their raw diet won't be balanced. So, how do you know what constitutes a balanced raw diet? If you ask ten different people, you'll likely get ten different answers. My advice is to find what works best for your dog.

All my dogs eat the same food, including visitor dogs (with the owner's permission). My adult Lundehunds eat the same food as my 15-year-old Boston Terrier (RIP). I've been feeding this diet for over 13 years.

For my healthy, adult, non-pregnant dogs, their diet consists of approximately 60% muscle meat, 15% bones, 10% tripe, 10% offal, and 5% fruit/veggies/premix. Their food also includes dietary animal fibers (fur/feathers), which are important for gastrointestinal health and often overlooked. We sometimes add supplements like kelp, fruit, probiotics, peat drench, moor liquid, and eggs. The food I give usually has about 14-21% protein and 6-14% fat, and the protein content is always higher than the fat content.

There are some exceptions to mention:
1. Puppies get special raw food with an appropriate calcium-to-phosphorus ratio (1.6:1) and calcium levels between 0.5% and 0.7%. We also try to start weaning as late as possible because starting solid food too early can permanently damage their intestines. Given this breed's sensitivity, it's important not to introduce solid food before they turn four weeks old.
2. Pregnant females receive less bone during the last few weeks of pregnancy. High blood calcium levels can suppress the parathyroid gland, leading to weak contractions and other birthing problems. After the first puppy is born, we start giving extra calcium. I once had a bitch with eclampsia, which was very scary, so I don't take any risks and give all nursing females a calcium supplement once the pup(s) arrived.
3. Lundehunds with IL, PLE, IBD, or LS need a lower-fat diet.

The percentages are important when feeding raw, but variety in proteins is also crucial. Raw-fed dogs need at least five different proteins to get enough nutrients, not including fish. This should include both red and white meat. Some Lundehund owners are told to feed only poultry, fish, and lamb, but this doesn't make sense to me. Dogs need more red meat to get enough nutrients. While red meat has higher fat levels compared to white meat, healthy dogs need fat to stay healthy. High-fat diets can lead to unwanted changes in gut flora, so my dogs' diet contains 6-14% raw fat. However, dogs with IL, PLE, IBD, or LS should have lower fat intake. Low-fat diets typically have fat contents between 18-25 grams per 1000 kcal.

Many people don't realize that raw fat is different from processed fat. Raw fats contain natural enzymes like lipase, which help break down stored fats. Cooked fats, on the other hand, can clog arteries and lymphatic vessels in dogs prone to gastrointestinal issues.

Raw food diets provide higher quality, more bioavailable protein compared to kibble. This means that the protein in raw food is easier for dogs to digest and utilize. Unlike kibble, which often contains lower-grade, processed proteins (often plant-based proteins) and fillers, raw food includes fresh, whole ingredients like muscle meat, organs, and bones. These components offer a complete amino acid profile and essential nutrients in their natural form. As a result, dogs on a raw diet can thrive on a lower percentage of protein compared to those on kibble, because the protein they consume is of superior quality and more efficiently absorbed by their bodies.

My dogs get a variety of proteins, including rabbit, hare, pigeon, duck, kangaroo, deer, horse, pheasant, goose, and turkey regularly. They sometimes get lamb, goat, llama, guinea fowl, quail, ostrich, moose, and even insects. They also get fish every 1.5-2 weeks. We avoid pork due to the risk of Aujeszky's disease.

Our latest order of approximately 90kg of frozen food included 10.7% deer, 9.3% pheasant, 9.3% hare, 8.4% horse, 8.4% pigeon, 7.4% fish, 7.3% rabbit, 7.0% kangaroo, 6.7% turkey, 5.6% mixed game, 4.2% duck, 4.2% wild goose, 4.1% moose, 3.9% beef, 2.8% lamb, 2.8% goat, and 1.8% quail. As you can see, we feed a wide variety of proteins.

They are fed once a day, except for puppies and pregnant/nursing females, who get more meals. Sick dogs also need more frequent, smaller meals. A couple of times a week, they get snacks, mostly home-dried like fish skin, duck feet, or rabbit ears (with hair).

Again, this is what works for my dogs. They aren't picky and always eat their meal within 60 seconds, regardless of the protein. I believe in excluding picky eaters from breeding, even with a rare breed, especially one prone to gastrointestinal issues.

Lastly, it's important to handle raw meat carefully, clean everything properly, and have a separate part of your fridge for storage. Bacterial contamination is a risk, but for me, the benefits outweigh the risks.

A lovely group of people started publishing a digital magazine focused on the Norwegian Lundehund. It's available in 7 l...
30/05/2024

A lovely group of people started publishing a digital magazine focused on the Norwegian Lundehund. It's available in 7 languages (maybe even more to come?) and is completely free!

Anyone who's interested in receiving the digital magazine in their mailbox 4 times a year, please send an e-mail to lundehundsfokus(at)gmail.com

We had 3 lovely weeks of holiday in Denmark & Sweden ❤️We went to 7 shows and are very happy with the results. Upcoming ...
29/05/2024

We had 3 lovely weeks of holiday in Denmark & Sweden ❤️
We went to 7 shows and are very happy with the results.
Upcoming weekend we'll have the Dutch Specialty and we're looking forward to that a lot! Hopefully the weather will be okay 🤣

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Lundehund kennel ‘of Vorkosmia’

About us

We are a small kennel in the North of the Netherlands, we don’t breed very often. Our females won’t get more than 3 litters and there will always be at least 12 months between the litters. The puppies will grow up in the living room with all our other pets and will be raised as our own.

Our vision

Character, health and conformation are the things we look at when deciding to use our Lundehund for breeding or not. Some breeders think character is most important, others think conformation is the most important. For me character and health are most important, but conformation is also important, I wouldn't use an unsound dog in breeding. Besides that, we also look at the inbreeding coefficient. We are members of Scandia (the Dutch breed club) and breed according to their rules. We do some additional health tests, like the test for luxating patellas and eye diseases (ECVO). This is not required when breeding Lundehunds, but I think it is important to know what you're breeding with. If a dog has mild PL (patella luxation), then you should mate it with a dog with no PL. We also think it is very useful for the future, maybe there is a problem with PL or the eyes in the future.. For the Lundehund it is important to use as much dogs as possible for breeding, because there is a small gene pool. To know what puppy will fit best in what family, we observe them a lot. In the first weeks of a puppy's life, they develop their character, it is important to find a breeder who socialize their puppies in a responsible way. When the puppies move to their new homes, it is up to the new owner to continue the socialization. For us it is very important to breed dogs with a stable character. When choosing a stud for our female, we first want to meet him in real life. He doesn't have to be a champion, as long as he 'fits' our bitch. Of course we also want the stud to be health tested. For me (and a lot of other Lundehund breeders) the inbreeding coefficient is very important, we strive for a low COI. We also try to find out if the stud has been used with bi***es with a similar pedigree, as we think the combination we are considering has to bring something "new" to the population. We, as Lundehund breeders, are very happy with the Pawpeds Database. We especially look at the 5th and 10th generation. We prefer a COI of 2,5% or lower at the 5th generation. Of course this isn't always possible, as health, character and conformation also play a role. Besides all that, we're also looking at what (and how many!) ancestors they have in common, and we're also looking at the brothers, sisters and the possible offspring of the stud. And last but not least, we look if the planned combination can be used for further breeding, are there any good partners for the puppies of the combination we're considering? We try to think ahead.