Alaskan Shepherd Australia

02/06/2024

Puppies 🐶

21/04/2024

Heads up for those waiting. I’ll get around to messaging my lovely families waiting soon. If you see this first-please message me. I know four of you want the ONE BROWN ONE 😛

27/03/2024

Too cute, almost four weeks old 😍

07/12/2023

Discounted.

Waiting for their forever home.

08/11/2023

Just practicing our non-motion sickness with mum 🤭

30/10/2023

Nail clipping time

19/10/2023

Still have a few boys 🤭💕💕

16/09/2023

A few available-boys

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1316760858?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=ios_EditAdSuccess&utm_medium=social&utm_source=smsonly

ALASKAN SHEPHERD PUPPY Pick up from 07112023 Alaskan Malamute stud X long stock German shepherd bitch See photos for parents Bitch and stud DNA compatible ..., 1316760858

14/09/2023

We only took 5 on our waiting list. We currently have 3 boys available.

Please message for more info, before I post a add in the coming days.

Thanks

30/07/2023

Puppies in September 🤍
We have five families on our current wait list for a Koven and Freya litter. Last litter (2022), we had only six (huge) puppies.
Please DM us your email and full name to be on our waiting list.
Mum and dad are both DNA cleared

27/01/2023

The alfas 😂😍😍😍

27/01/2023

Super kind bed looking SMALL…

01/01/2023

2022 litter was a dream 🧡

01/01/2023

The eyes on him

09/12/2022

2022 litter have my heart 🧡

29/09/2022

Dad & Daughter hangs 🧡

25/04/2022

ALASKAN SHEPHERD E.O.I (2022 litter)

Alaskan Malamute (Dad) X long stock German shepherd. See photos for parents.

Bitch and stud DNA compatible for healthy off springs. Vet cleared and approved for breeding.

STUD: Koven at 40kg, our Pure Alaskan Malamute. 4 years old. This will be his second litter. Long hair, wolf grey in colour. High energy but also loves to cuddle and nap. Will follow you everywhere. Loves to chat and play with humans and dogs. Thrives off training/tricks.

BITCH: Freya 1.5yrs old, at 35kg although her mum and dad weighed in at 40kg & 45kg, we think she’ll have more years of growth. Pure long stock German shepherd. Our most cuddly dog of them all. Extremely smart, playful and affectionate.

BREED: This will be our second Alaskan Shepherd litter (follow on IG .kara.freya). This breed is well known overseas in multiple countries and has been around since the 80’s. Mixing the two breeds together really gives you best of both breeds. Besides the obvious factor of cross breeds, being more genetically healthy (ask any vet); you get a hint of the GSD’s protective nature, both their intellectual traits and more!

This breed is not for the faint hearted. They are best suited in packs aka, either families/WFH or other dogs. They will want to be with you and spend lots of quality time with you. They can be cheeky, we’ve found if they have enough mental stimulation and active this can eliminate that.

Always here for advice and would prefer to keep in contact with buyers (via IG: .Kara.Freya)

INTERSTATE: Flight with vet nurse and hire crate can be arranged. Video calls and/or if you have any local friends, they are welcome to meet us/dog.

APPLICATION:
Some are spoken for already as we had a waiting list from 2020 litter.

! Serious families/buyers only
! Email [email protected] OR Text 0458885788 and I will call you back
! Application form will be sent to you via email

PUPPIES:
* 2nd weekly worming till PU
* Flea and tick at 8 weeks, pens/home pre litter-flea and tick sprayed
* Updated/photos while you patiently wait for 8 week mark
* All injections till 8 weeks
* Microchipped
* Vet checked prior to sale
* Not sold for breeding
* Nails trimmed/groomed for PU
* Complete information pack
* Continuing guidance when needed through dogs life
* Approved, registered breeders BIN0008540326377
* Litter expected November 2022

21/09/2021

One little puppy graduated intermediate class over the weekend. Kara 💗💗

07/03/2021

Did you know it is recommended, to walk your puppy till they are 14-16 weeks old! This is dependent on when their last injections are and your location. The injections take about two weeks for immunity. Germs may lay on the ground and be picked up by your puppy.

Having two other dogs in the yard, no walks meant “let’s dig holes everywhere”. We caved and took all three for a walk.

This morning we let the dogs inside. Koven opened a door, ran to his doggy box, selected HIS walking harness and dropped it at my feet.

Who thinks he missed walks..? 😂

25/02/2021

Worth a read!

A Trainer's Truth About Crates
By Jennifer Messer

Q: I keep hearing about how crates are so great, but… I wouldn’t want to sit around in a cage, so why would I want to put my dog in one?

A: Prison or cozy retreat? It all depends on perspective and on how you use the crate. Dogs have a natural denning instinct, normally preferring safe, enclosed quarters for their naps. In the wild, a den is a secure place to get some shut-eye without becoming someone else's meal.
If a dog is properly introduced to a crate as a young pup he will view it as a safe refuge from the hustle and bustle of the house (and away from any pesky children!)—a place for peace and quiet and serious snoozing. When wild dogs aren’t looking for food, trying to mate, or taking care of young, they are resting up to save energy for those key, life-sustaining activities. Most domestic dog owners are surprised to learn that wild dogs spend up to 16 hours a day sleeping! Rest periods in snug quarters are a natural part of caring for our dogs’ needs.
But… dogs have many other needs that crates interfere with. Dogs are social animals; they require interaction with other dogs or people. They also need exercise, mental stimulation, and appropriate “potty” opportunities. So, while some time spent in a crate is usually a positive element of dog rearing, too much time spent in a crate can have disastrous consequences.

Choosing a crate
Crates come in a variety of sizes and materials. The two most common models are plastic, such as those required for airplane transport, and collapsible metal wire crates. Provided they are of adequate size (see below), either model will serve equally well as dual-purpose den and training tool. The bottom can be covered with a blanket or thick towel for warmth and comfort. Fleece-covered foam dog beds make for an even cozier cave, but can only be used with non-destructive types; “piranha” puppies will make a mess out of them!
Plastic crates are often preferable for small breeds since they are compact enough to use in the car, and can be opened (most models split into a top and bottom half) and used as snug, high-sided doggie beds once the little one is fully housetrained. Collapsible metal crates are often more practical for large breeds since they can more easily be sectioned off into appropriately-sized spaces during housetraining, and are easier to store. (But if you ever plan to travel by air with your dog, you will need an approved, hard-sided plastic crate regardless.) Any small safe space, such as a beanbag chair tucked away in a corner with a low ceiling or a comfy duvet bunched up between your desk and the wall, can function as a cozy den for the fully housetrained dog with no behavioural “issues” necessitating confinement when unsupervised.

The crate as housetraining tool
Crates are virtually essential for any dog that isn’t yet housetrained. When of appropriate size, it serves as a comfortable, den-like bedroom, something almost all dogs naturally want to keep free of urine and f***s. Any crate you use, for whatever purposes, must always be large enough for the puppy or dog to stand up without having to hunch, to lie on his side with legs outstretched, and turn around with ease. But a crate used for housetraining should be no bigger than this, or the dog will have space enough for both a bedroom and a bathroom.
If the crate is of the right size, the dog is pretty well guaranteed to want to take a p*e (and maybe a p**p as well) when he comes out; so a swift trip outdoors will give him the opportunity to practise doing his business in the right place. In turn, this gives you the opportunity to congratulate him with a walk, game or treat—the perfect housetraining scenario. Used properly, a crate can theoretically lead to a puppy’s never having an “accident” in the house!

The crate as chew toy habit facilitator
Chew toy fixations are good. And the crate is a fabulous tool for turning any dog into a chew toy addict. A food-stuffed chew toy such as a Kong, or a Nylabone with some drilled holes filled with dog food or any other wholesome filling will keep a pup busy for hours. Also if you don't won't to use a chew toy a meaty bone also works a treat. If he isn’t ready for a nap when you put him in, he will be after working away on a well-stuffed chew toy or bone for a while. Chew toys and meaty bones keep dogs physically and mentally stimulated and are a wonderful substitute for hunting. Remember: those wild dogs sleep up to16 hours a day because they are working really hard during the other 8 hours! Give your dog lots of meaty bones and chew toy hunting projects—a tired dog is a happy dog. (But be sure to decrease regular mealtime calories accordingly.)

The crate and the time-out
Yes, you can use a crate for time-outs without causing “crate-hate.” Do you like your bedroom? Sure you do—even if you don’t want to be there on a Friday night. Your dog can like his crate too, even if he doesn’t want to be there while scheming to scam some chicken off the dining room table. Crates are okay for time-outs, because it isn’t the crate that is punishing… it is the loss of freedom in the middle of fun times that is punishing. The same reasoning extends to children: they can be sent to their room as a consequence for misbehaviour without learning to fear or hate their room. Your dog will only become afraid of his crate if bad things happen while he is in there—so never scold him while he is inside. Time-outs don't need to be long; 30 seconds to 3 minutes is plenty. And don’t forget to give your Cool Hand Luke a clean slate once he’s done his time… no grudge-holding allowed!

The crate as management tool
The crates is also a terrific tool for the overall management of dogs. Trainers will often divide the plan for fixing a behaviour problem into two components, training and management. Training is where you actively work on correcting a problem—like teaching Lola to sit to greet guests at the door instead of jumping up or goosing them. Management is where you avoid the situation altogether—like crating her with a stuffed chewtoy when the doorbell rings so that she is physically unable to jump on the pizza delivery man—because you are not ready for a training session at that particular moment. With young puppies we use the crate to manage a whole raft of anticipated problems, such as destructive chewing, nipping at young children, and housesoiling, when unable to supervise them properly. While crated they may not be learning all of the good habits we want to teach them, but at least they aren’t reinforcing any bad ones.


How long is too long?
A good rule of thumb is that a dog can be crated overnight and for up to half the day, provided his social and physical needs are being met while not in the crate. Young puppies need more frequent naps and much more frequent opportunities to “do their business” than adults. A good estimate of how long a pup can wait before needing to relieve himself is as many hours as he is months old, plus one. So a three-month-old pup can manage for about four hours. Overnight he can usually hold a bit longer, usually about 1.5 times the daytime maximum—about six hours for a three-month-old. But don't forget that puppies need to be thoroughly socialized before they are five months old—so those hours awake and out of the crate are very precious for socialization!

How to introduce a dog to a crate
Puppies are introduced to crates quite easily by tossing food-stuffed chewtoys inside when they are hungry and letting them work away while someone familiar is nearby. Gradually they can be left on their own with the door closed, and many will readily go to their crate voluntarily for naps or in the hopes that a stuffed chewtoy will miraculously appear. Adult dogs without any crate experience can be trained to like a crate in the same manner, but it may take longer; and the guidance of a pet behaviour counsellor is sometimes required if the dog is anxious about entering. A great trick for dogs of all ages is to lock dinner inside the crate until poochie is throwing a major tantrum wanting to go inside… then you can open the door and let him in for a yummy meal. He probably won’t even notice when you close the door.

What if he is whining to come out?
The only whining that should successfully elicit crate door-opening services with a puppy is if puppy needs to p*e. If you aren't sure, take puppy out of the crate very matter-of-factly and place him outside. (Carry the puppy instead of allowing him to meander at his own sp*ed.) If he produces, it was legitimate. If he doesn't, he goes back in the crate for half an hour… he was just whining to come out, and needs to learn another way of asking (like sitting quietly). The other exception is if the puppy or dog has an anxiety problem such as fear of crates, separation anxiety, or fear of noise in the environment. If this is the case, seek the help of a professional trainer or behaviour counsellor. Otherwise, the rule of thumb for crate whiners or barkers is that they need to be quiet for at least three minutes straight before they get let out. Otherwise, they are learning that whining and barking works—and then who is training whom?

09/02/2021

The reality of taking dog photos..🤣

09/02/2021

09/02/2021

Hello and welcome to our 'Alaskan Shepherd' page. We currently have two breeding dogs, Koven (Alaskan Malamute) & Korah (German Shepherd).

Although we post a lot on Instagram (), feel free to like our page for further updates on the dogs and their next litter in early 2022.