Kerry’s Holistic Hoofcare

26/05/2024

Now we’ve had rain it’s time to be more proactive with your horses feet!

👣 𝐏𝐫𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐇𝐨𝐨𝐟 𝐏𝐚𝐭𝐡𝐨𝐥𝐨𝐠𝐲

🐴 This is an article I have been wanting to put together for a very long time, however there are just so many points I wanted to address that it’s taken me months to get here.

🌧️ White line disease (seedy toe), abscesses, thrush, thin soles… These terms seem to describe this entire year if you own horses, so I’ve made it my mission to put together a detailed guide on how to prevent and manage these conditions as best as possible.

🦠 Unfortunately, there is no quick fix or magic solution, and it is physically demanding and time consuming to say the least. Horses are not designed to be housed in these sorts of conditions long term, and their hooves are just not equipped to withstand the issues that wet ground and mud can bring.

🧼 𝐃𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐲 𝐌𝐚𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞

I’m going to rip the band-aid off and start with the most labour intensive point and the one I look forward to the least with my own horses.

In these conditions, we need to be thoroughly cleaning every single hoof, every single day. When I say clean, I don’t mean use a hoof pick to flick out a bit of mud from either side of the frog and call it a day. I mean… invest in a good quality hoof pick plus a heavy duty wire bristle brush and scrub the entire underside of the hoof spotless. Not only will a wire brush uncover every little defect so that you are able to address it before it becomes something more sinister, but it will also promote circulation and stimulate frog health and sole growth because let’s face it, there’s not much stimulation coming from mud and waterlogged ground right now.

Regardless of your topical treatment of choice, whether it be bluestone, potassium permanganate, methylated spirits, iodine, apple cider vinegar, it needs to be consistent and thorough. Just like cleaning the hoof, these topical treatments need to be applied daily, with the exception of products such as bluestone + beeswax/vaseline which are designed to stay put for longer than a day.

⏰ 𝐓𝐫𝐢𝐦 𝐂𝐲𝐜𝐥𝐞

6-8 weeks is not a short trim cycle. There, I said it. An unsettling degree of pathology can work its way into a hoof that is going 6-8 weeks between trims, particularly if there is no daily maintenance being carried out. 3-5 weeks is a more appropriate timeframe between trims during these conditions; however, mid-cycle clean ups (a hoof knife or tool to nick out spots of white line disease) can still be necessary and can make all of the difference. Rogue white line disease can track a long way in a matter of weeks.

Please… Do not blame your trimmer or farrier for issues with your horse’s hooves if you are not addressing everything else that influences hoof health. They see your horse once every 1-2 months, you see them every day.

✅ 𝐑𝐞𝐬𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬

The most important part when it comes to addressing white line disease, separation, seedy toe that has already established. The bacteria that are responsible for these defects in the white line are anaerobic, which means they thrive in deep, dark, dirty crevices where oxygen is not abundant.

Resecting these pockets of pathology allows oxygen to kill and stop the bacteria in its tracks. You or your hoof care professional must be resecting areas of seedy toe or separation to prevent the progression of the disease.

Please note that if you are using treatments such as bluestone and beeswax to kill seedy toe, you must ensure that the resection is thoroughly cleaned, disinfected, and properly dried before applying a treatment that is going to seal off access for oxygen. The last thing you want to do is plug an unsanitary and damp pocket of disease with a ‘treatment’ that is going to hold in the dirt and debris for the bacteria to continue thriving amongst.

🏠 𝐃𝐫𝐲 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐂𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐧 𝐅𝐨𝐨𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠

Even if the majority of your horse’s paddock is waterlogged, providing them with an area of dry footing can make all of the difference for preventing disease and hoof defects. Consider investing in some well-draining footing to build up a stable area so that your horse can escape the elements and dry out from time to time.

Regularly removing manure and urine build up from highly frequented parts of the paddock such as hay stations, water troughs, and loafing areas can significantly reduce how much bacteria and disease your horse’s hooves come into contact with.

🌱 𝐃𝐢𝐞𝐭𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐁𝐚𝐥𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐞

Diet and gut health influences hoof health greatly, so ensuring that your horse is receiving a balanced and species-appropriate diet can make all of the difference where their hoof integrity is concerned.

Trace element balance is vital for hoof growth, strength and pathogen prevention, so please invest the time (or money if research isn’t your thing) into ensuring your horse has what they need. Buying a biotin supplement is not going to fix your horse’s hooves if their diet is deficient in copper and zinc.

These weather conditions can take their toll on our horse’s psychological and physical health, so please make sure you are supporting their gut health where necessary. Continuing to load your horse with starch that feeds pathogenic gut microflora and contributes to hindgut pH disturbances is not going to support their hoof health. After all, the brain > gut > hooves are all linked.

🐎 I sincerely hope that this post helps someone and their horses. You are not alone if some days you feel insane and frustrated - I have those moments too!

💬 I invest a lot of time and energy into researching and writing these free information resources, so if you found this article interesting or informative, I’d love if you could leave your feedback in the comments and give it a share. 🫶🏼

11/05/2024

❄️ 𝙒𝙞𝙣𝙩𝙚𝙧 𝙄𝙨 𝘾𝙤𝙢𝙞𝙣𝙜…

🐴 Is anyone else in disbelief that it is May already and that winter is only 3 weeks away?! I hope the following leaves you with some handy tips for managing your equine friends throughout the next few months.

🧥 Let’s rip this Band-Aid off and start with the most controversial topic of winter… Rugging.

🌡️ Despite how cold we may feel, equines have a thermoneutral zone of approximately 5°C - 25°C. This means that most horses do not feel cold unless it is below 5°C, and do not feel hot unless temperatures exceed 25°C. Of course, we need to take into consideration factors such as clipping, wind, rain, and the fact that we know our individual horses best; however, it is vital that we don’t go reaching for the rugs unless temperatures are dropping to the lower range of a horse’s thermoneutral zone, or unless we know that our individual horse does not cope without extra layers for any given reason (i.e. age or body condition score).

🧬 The fact of the matter is, over-rugging is a huge contributor to metabolic disorders and obesity in equines. Using rugs inappropriately means a horse is not capable of regulating their body temperature and metabolism how they are designed to do so. 𝘕𝘰𝘵 allowing a horse to lose some condition during winter may result in obesity, further metabolic issues, and laminitis as they enter spring ‘well-covered’ and proceed to inhale all of the lush, green, and sugary spring pasture.

🐎 I can hear everyone internally screaming. “𝘔𝘺 𝘩𝘰𝘳𝘴𝘦 𝘪𝘴 𝘚𝘜𝘗𝘗𝘖𝘚𝘌𝘋 𝘵𝘰 𝘭𝘰𝘴𝘦 𝘸𝘦𝘪𝘨𝘩𝘵 𝘥𝘶𝘳𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘸𝘪𝘯𝘵𝘦𝘳?”

⚖️ Yes… it is how horses are physiologically designed to regulate their body condition. Now I am not saying a horse needs to become underweight or malnourished during winter months, but it is normal and actually healthy for them to lose some kilograms during winter to prevent spring-induced health implications which are far worse than a couple of ribs being visible.

🦴 And with that being said… A glimpse of ribs does not necessarily mean your horse is skinny, malnourished, or emaciated. Society has conditioned us to accept overweight and obese horses as the normal and this is why we are seeing more and more metabolic conditions diagnosed. Being able to feel/slightly see ribs is 𝘏𝘌𝘈𝘓𝘛𝘏𝘠.

🌱 Winter can often be used as an advantage to owners who are struggling to keep weight off easy keepers. If you’ve owned easy keepers for several seasons then you know how challenging spring pasture can be. Get ahead of spring and allow your easy keepers to drop some condition by not rugging them unless absolutely necessary, not over-feeding them good quality hay, and continuing to exercise them if and where possible. A fat, fluff-ball of a pony may look cute but it is a ticking time bomb if not managed carefully.

🌾 Harder keepers can be a little more difficult to manage during winter, but that is not to say they need to be over-rugged either. Over-rugging does not do their metabolism any favours and may further reduce their ability to regulate their body condition even once winter has passed. This category of horses will often benefit from an increase in quality roughage i.e. good quality grass hay fed ad libitum. Digestible fibre aids to keep a horse warm from the inside-out, as microbial fermentation in the hindgut produces heat as a result of the process. Additional warmth may be achieved by adding a legume hay to the diet such as lucerne hay which is an excellent source of quality protein that produces increased heat when fermented.

🏇🏻 It is often hard to separate horse’s needs from the needs of humans; however, it is essential to remember that they are a completely different species who are biologically unlike us.

🍎 Please feel free to share. It’s really important that we get on top of metabolically-challenged and/or obese horses who are predisposed to life-long health implications that have been created by humans. Similarly, putting measures in place to prevent our harder keeping horses from too much weight loss during winter months sooner rather than later could take some pressure off of feeding management once winter really sets in.

🤝🏼As always; rain, hail, or shine I am available for Equine Nutrition Consultations should you need a helping hand with managing your horse’s dietary needs, weight control, external health, internal health, or performance.

https://stableisedequine.com.au/products/remote-equine-nutrition-consultation

06/05/2024

Gotta love freshly trimmed feet, the recent rain has now softened everything making it easy for me to trim the hard feet like my Welsh Cobs! Smokey has such hard feet and with the long dry spell haven’t been able to trim as much off! Satisfying for me to peel back the extra layers of hoof horn and I’m sure he’s more comfortable now after a good trim.

26/04/2024

I wrote this many years ago, and I still stand by it.

22/03/2024

Cuteness overload this morning trimming this mother and son duo! Feet haven’t been done in a long time for the mare Ritzy and 3 month old c**t Tonto was his first trim. Both well behaved and a lot of licking and chewing after each foot was done as they were much more comfortable. 💝🐴

20/03/2024

Arti's right foot (I forgot to take pics before I pulled the shoe 😌
Same as the left foot you can see where the coronet band and heel bulbs have relaxed nicely!

20/03/2024

This is Artis front left foot, as you can see I only did a conservative trim, tidied up the frogs, scraped the bars, made all sharp surfaces smooth and bevelled to hoof wall. Automatically you could see where the coronet band and heel bulbs had relaxed, as was Arti in himself.

20/03/2024

A couple of weeks ago I had a friend reach out and asked me to transition 2 of her off the track standard breds from shod to barefoot! This is the story of Arti.
Arti is a 7 year old gelding enjoying his retirement with his mate Eagle! I forgot to take pics of Eagles feet but are quite similar to this guy. From pulling the shoes off to doing a small tidy up trim there was a lot of licking and chewing going on as he felt relief from having the metal shoes taken off.
Transitioning from shod to barefoot is a process, it can take months to a year in some cases, some horses respond well others not so well but we must take our time and do what we can for them to be comfortable within the process.
I will post pics of the feet as I did in stages.

07/03/2024

🌱 𝙇𝙞𝙚𝙨 𝘼𝙗𝙤𝙪𝙩 𝙇𝙪𝙘𝙚𝙧𝙣𝙚

🐴 Today, let’s debunk some common misconceptions about lucerne/alfalfa, or 𝘔𝘦𝘥𝘪𝘤𝘢𝘨𝘰 𝘚𝘢𝘵𝘪𝘷𝘢 if you’d like to get fancy.

🌱 Myth #1: Lucerne is high in sugar and soaking it helps to remove some of the sugar content.

🐴 Truth #1: Lucerne is high in protein, but not high in sugar. While it is true that soaking hay helps to remove some of the sugar content, soaking lucerne is pointless as there are no high sugar concentrations to begin with. Soaking does not remove protein or calories.

🌱 Myth #2: Lucerne will make horses hot.

🐴 Truth #2: As mentioned already, lucerne is a fantastic source of protein which converts to energy when consumed by the horse. Lucerne itself is a source of slower-release energy in comparison to cereal grains and grain by-products because it is low in sugar and starch but high in digestible fibre. It’s often not the lucerne itself causing “hot” behaviour, but an excess of energy input relevant to the horse’s energy output. Feeding a diet that is balanced and provides energy sources that are appropriate for the individual’s activity level will usually mitigate behavioural “issues.”

🌱 Myth #3: Lucerne is comparable to other hay types for ulcer prevention and gastrointestinal health.

🐴 Truth #3: Any low sugar and starch hay is going to aid in the prevention of ulcers and support gastrointestinal health, however lucerne comes with the advantage of being high in bioavailable calcium. Not only is this source of highly bioavailable calcium beneficial for horses with higher calcium requirements such as breeding and growing horses, or horses grazing on high oxalate pastures, it is also fantastic at neutralising and buffering gastric due to it’s alkaline profile.

🌱 Myth #4: Lucerne is suitable for laminitic/metabolic horses.

🐴 Truth #4: While lucerne does tick the box of being low in sugar and starch, it’s quality protein content can be a trigger for some laminitic and metabolic equines and it is therefore a “maybe” feed for this category of horse. Horses who are actively laminitic should not be fed lucerne (or any high protein feed), as it is not a situation where you want to be conducting tests with “potentially” suitable food sources.

🌱 Myth #5: Lucerne will make a horse produce poorly formed or watery manure.

🐴 Truth #5: Horses can be intolerant or allergic to any food source, but lucerne being the cause of scouring or diarrhoea is usually because it has been introduced to the diet too quickly, or because it is high in digestible fibre and the horse isn’t intaking adequate indigestible fibre elsewhere in the diet. Feeding lower quality and slightly stalky lucerne hay can help to overcome this issue.

🌱 So tell me, do you love or hate lucerne? Do you feed it daily or only on occasion? Let me know your thoughts in the comments below and as always, please feel welcome to share this article if you enjoyed it. 😄

24/02/2024

Today I trimmed Shorty
for the first time, he’s an 8 year old mini mule, cute as a button…usually a little s**t to trim but today he was good as gold and also enjoyed smoochies 💋 and cuddles. Shorty and his mate Jack were very relaxed in my company.

17/02/2024

02/02/2024

🐴 𝗘𝗮𝘀𝘆-𝗞𝗲𝗲𝗽𝗲𝗿𝘀 𝗡𝗲𝗲𝗱 𝗔 𝗗𝗮𝗶𝗹𝘆 𝗛𝗮𝗿𝗱 𝗙𝗲𝗲𝗱

🪣 It is incredibly common to come across instances where easy-keeping, fat, or obese horses receive zero in the form of a hard/bucket feed because "they don't need it."

📈 Sure, they don't need the additional calories that a lot of feeds offer, but what they do need at minimum as domestic horses is minerals and electrolytes (salt).

😱 "My horse will get fat if I give them ANY hard feed."

🐎 Without wanting to offend anyone here, but no, your horse will get fat because their forage intake is not restricted or managed appropriately or they are not exercising enough.

💠 A 500 kilogram horse at maintenance has a digestible energy requirement of approximately 70 MJ per day.

💠 Let's assume the pasture or hay this horse has access to provides 7 MJ per kilogram, which is probably conservative.

💠 If this same 500 kilogram horse has unrestricted access to pasture or hay, they have the ability to consume 3% of their body weight in forage per day, which = up to 15 kilograms!

💠 15 kilograms of pasture or hay at 7 MJ/KG means this horse has the ability to intake up to 105 MJ of energy in a 24-hour period.

💠 100 grams of Speedibeet (beet pulp) to carry a mineral supplement, some salt, and maybe some linseeds would give this horse a whopping 1.1 MJ of energy.

💠 100 grams of Copra Meal as a supplement carrier would provide (I hope you're sitting down because it's shocking)... a whole 1.5 MJ of energy.

🌾 So tell me... is the hard feed component of this horse's diet the issue or is it the poor forage management practices?

🌱 Easy keeping horses should not be deprived of the basics just because they look fat and shiny on the outside. They should receive something like the following once daily:

➖ A mineral (and sometimes vitamin) supplement with high concentrations of what their base diet is lacking. This could be something like a powdered mineral mix with a low daily feed rate, or a pelleted ration balancer (such as PractiBALANCE) that provides the necessary additives in pellet form that technically doesn't require a carrier ingredient such as beet pulp, copra meal, legumes, legume hulls etc.

➖ Sodium and chloride, or better known as salt. The drive to drink is triggered by sodium, which makes salt an incredibly vital component of any and all equine diets. At minimum, loose salt should be left out free choice, but my preference is to add it to a token meal.

➖ An omega-3 fatty acid source is often necessary if pasture quality is not good or if the horse is on a predominantly hay reliant diet. Super easy-keeping horses often do better on linseeds rather than a flaxseed oil to keep their calorie intake further restricted.

🌿 Providing an easy-keeping horse or pony with the basics in a token meal (and by token, I mean token. You don't need to feed a kilogram of chaff or a big dipper of sweet feed because you want them to know that you love them) will not promote unwanted weight gain. Forage control (limiting intake to 1.5-2% as opposed to 3%), lower calorie pasture or hay, and exercise, movement, and circulation will do much more for your equine's waistline than anything you put in their bucket.

🍎 Food for thought!

26/01/2024

We've followed Dr. Robert Bowker's advice for a couple decades now, and it has worked well for us. I don't wish to criticize those who practice differently, but I have always been shocked at how most of the hoofcare world has largely ignored Bowker's research, data, and advice. He has the receipts! He's a very kind person so not into arguing. In this current world, if you're not a loud mouth blabbing away, no one listens. But his information is spot on.

Want to debate the toes? How about THIS: "With the long toe, P3 is remodeling! The hoof wall grows LONGER and this elevates the periosteum off the coffin bone, and that space fills in with BONE (which elongates the coffin bone). The toes gets longer and longer. With a slipper toe, the periosteum goes out towards this slipper; the coffin bone will creep. The entire bone remodels forward. Everything is interactive. If the palmar process gets longer, the toes are too long."

Bowker is adamant: you MUST trim into the white line to shorten the toes to rehab a long-toed foot. "Horses will be sore when the semilunar line to tip of P3 is in excess of 40mm, and thus the toe is long. This happens because trimmers are afraid to come inside the white line! Farriers NEVER come inside the white line. And vets do not trim."

Conversations about this need to happen. The trimmers who put this into practice know that it works. Short toes are the best thing you can do for a horse's foot.

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Happy Hooves! - Yvonne Welz

23/01/2024

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13/01/2024

🌱 𝗨𝗻𝗱𝗲𝗿𝘄𝗲𝗶𝗴𝗵𝘁 𝗛𝗼𝗿𝘀𝗲 𝗪𝗶𝘁𝗵 𝗨𝗻𝗹𝗶𝗺𝗶𝘁𝗲𝗱 𝗚𝗿𝗮𝘀𝘀?

🐴 It’s easy to get complacent about how much fibre and energy your horse is intaking when they have unlimited access to pasture. If they continually graze, how could they possibly lose weight or be unable to gain and maintain weight?

🌾 There is a considerable variation in the nutritive value of different forages and obviously some options are going to provide more energy and nutrients than others, but for the sake of keeping this article of a healthy length, today we are just going to focus on the quantity of forage a horse should be intaking on a daily basis.

🐎 Let’s start out by looking at how much forage a 500kg horse needs to intake on a daily basis.

• 1.5% (7.5kg) of body weight in dry matter per day would allow some horses to maintain weight, but would see other horses with a quicker metabolism or poorer digestive/immune health lose weight.

• 2% (10kg) of body weight in dry matter per day should allow most horses to maintain condition unless their health is challenged due to illness, disease, age etc.

• 2.5-3% (12.5-15kg) of body weight in dry matter per day may result in some horses becoming overweight, but may be adequate for other horses who are harder keepers due to any number of reasons.

💧 It’s important to remember that these percentages are based on dry weight values, which essentially means the weight of the forage once the moisture content has been removed. 1kg of pasture with a moisture content of 20% is only going to provide 800g of dry matter.

⚖️ Now I want you to imagine yourself in a paddock of grass that is overgrazed or less than 10cm in height. Grab a pair of scissors and walk around this paddock until you have collected yourself 12.5kg of grass (12.5kg - 20% moisture content = 10kg dry matter).

⏰ You only have 16 hours in a 24 hour period to achieve this because you need the other 5 hours in your day for other essentials such as drinking, sleeping, interacting with your friends, and digesting your food.

🌿 Is it going to be possible for you to achieve this task? Possibly. But it’s going to take you a lot of time and energy moving around to make sure you can collect enough grass in your allocated time slot. Wouldn’t it be easier and less energy-consuming if someone gave you 5kg of hay (moisture content already taken care of) to fulfill 50% of your requirement?

🌱 Overgrazed or short pasture can make it rather difficult for some horses to fullfill their forage requirements if they are challenged with a fast metabolism, digestive upset or immune issues that reduce their ability to digest and utilise dietary nutrients, age, dental health, and so on.

💠 Horses are a large animal and they need a lot of roughage to sustain themselves and maintain a healthy gastrointestinal tract - they don’t have a giant fermentation vat inside them for no reason!

09/01/2024

Here’s my 2 kids looking nice and shiney!

05/01/2024

Jethro Front Right

05/01/2024

Jethro Front Left

05/01/2024

Jethro Front left

05/01/2024

Today I met this gorgeous guy of an existing client he's a 4 year old unraced Standardbred, Jethro was only gelded a couple of weeks ago just before he arrived at his new home. He is a gentle giant and hasn't quite grown into his legs yet!
He was shod but he threw his shoes in the last couple of weeks. This is his first "set up trim" on his transition from shod to barefoot. He was cross firing causing him to keep pulling shoes off. Just a general tidy up for his first trim while he gets used to the harder ground and starts shedding the dead retained sole himself. I trimmed and smoothed his frogs to make him more comfortable at the back of the foot and was heel landing strait after the trim. More pics to follow.

30/12/2023

I pulled the shoes off this little fellow today. He's such a well behaved boy. Has had soundness issues with previous owner and the new owner decided to transition/rehab to barefoot. You can already see a difference with the coronet and the heel bulbs relaxing all in a matter of an hour! Will post some more pics in another post.

30/12/2023

Other views of the right foot, heel bulbs nice and relaxed already.

30/12/2023

Here's the right foot!

30/12/2023

You can see the heel bulbs more relaxed from this view! He's more comfortable and there was alot of licking and chewing going on while I was progressing with the trim.

18/11/2023

🦠 𝙈𝙮𝙘𝙤𝙩𝙤𝙭𝙞𝙣𝙨: 𝙏𝙝𝙚 𝙄𝙣𝙫𝙞𝙨𝙞𝙗𝙡𝙚 𝙄𝙣𝙨𝙩𝙞𝙜𝙖𝙩𝙤𝙧

🐴 Mycotoxins, toxic substances produced by certain moulds, pose a serious health risk to horses when present in their feed. These invisible culprits can have detrimental effects on equine health, ranging from mild symptoms to severe, long-term consequences. Understanding the sources, symptoms, and prevention of Mycotoxin exposure is crucial for ensuring the well-being of our horses.

🌱 Sources of Mycotoxins in Horse Feed:

Mycotoxins can contaminate horse feed at various stages, from cultivation to storage. Mould growth on pasture grasses, hay, and grains such as oats, barley, and corn is a common cause of Mycotoxin development. Additionally, poor storage conditions, including high humidity and inadequate ventilation, contribute to Mycotoxin formation. Ensuring the quality of both forage (pasture, hay) and concentrate feeds is essential for minimizing the risk of Mycotoxin exposure.

🐎 Effects on Equine Health:

Mycotoxins can adversely affect multiple systems within a horse's body, leading to a range of health issues. Digestive disturbances, reduced immune function, and neurological disorders are among the potential consequences. Other symptoms of Mycotoxicosis may include:

• Inappetence
• Weight loss
• Lethargy
• Recurrent colic episodes
• Undesirable behavioural changes such as aggression or reactiveness
• Respiratory distress
• Poor skin and coat health
• Photosensitivity on non-pigmented skin

🌾 Management of Mycotoxin Ingestion:

There are several means in which Mycotoxin ingestion can be managed or lessened, including correct manufacture and storage of feed sources, providing clean and mould-free hay, and slashing pasture before it goes to seed, particularly during high growth or high rainfall periods. The use of a toxin binder, such as Mycosorb A+, is also one of the most effective strategies for managing Mycotoxin ingestion. Mycosorb A+ is specifically designed to adsorb Mycotoxins within the gastrointestinal tract, preventing their absorption into the bloodstream. The benefit of Mycosorb A+ is that unlike clay and charcoal based toxin binders, it does not pose a risk of binding with anything other than Mycotoxins such as minerals and medications, rendering it safe and highly-effective for long-term use.

💚 If you suspect your horse may be impacted by Mycotoxins, I highly recommend implementing Mycosorb A+ as soon as practical. PractiSORB is a 100% Mycosorb A+ supplement available for purchase at the following link:

https://stableisedequine.com.au/products/practi-sorb

🧩 AND! PractiCAL and PractiBALANCE both provide a base amount of Mycosorb A+ per serving, which means if you are feeding either of these vitamin and mineral supplements, you have one less dietary puzzle piece to worry about.

https://stableisedequine.com.au/products/practi-cal

https://stableisedequine.com.au/products/practi-balance