Vet Calls at Home

02/05/2022

Hi New Puppy Owner,

Thank you for wanting the best start for your puppy, that's what your team of vets and nurses want for you and your puppy too.

I love the fact that it is all new to you - and am happy to help with general advice as well as specifics - so please reach out as questions come up.

Your puppy will need
Microchip
Puppy vaccinations (generally 9 weeks, 12 weeks +/- 15 weeks)
Desexing
Annual vaccination every 12 months (C5) after that
Tapeworm every 3 months
Combined wormer, heartwormer & flea control each month

To keep track of it all it's handy to have a little "vaccination passport" that will have a copy of your puppy's microchip number, vaccination and date for booster vaccinations. You can record worming, heart worm and flea control in there too.

Once your pup has had the 12 week booster, they will be due on that date every 12 months (annual C5 boosters each year).

For intestinal worms, flea control and heartworm I recommend starting this when at 12 weeks and then maintain each month for life.

In addition I recommend a tapeworm product every 3 months.

A puppy consult is a great idea to go over this with you, and I can also recommend puppy classes, (these book up quickly, so ring your local clinic and enquire - you may be able to place your puppy's name on the list even before they come home to you.

Vets and nurses all love puppies and want to make sure they get a great start - so please head in to your local clinic, share some puppy cuddles and make use of the great (and often free) advice.

If that sounds too good to be true here's the reason we do it - well socialised puppies that we have had a chance to meet and greet early in life make much better patients when they need care - because they are much less likely to be scared of the clinic.

Here's some great resources to make sure you've got the skills you need to really enjoy your puppy. It's meant to be fun!

Madcap University
https://madcapuniversity.com/

The Learning Center – PUPPY CULTURE https://shoppuppyculture.com/pages/the-learning-center

11/01/2022

Hot Days and Heat Waves

This Christmas Perth endured its hottest-ever Christmas Day when the temperature reached 42.8C. It was followed by the second hottest December day on record on Boxing Day, when the temperature peaked at 43.5C. In the aftermath the clinic was flooded with heatstroke victims.

Heat stroke occurs when our pets' capacity to regulate body temperature is overwhelmed by hot conditions.

When it is hot for a short period their bodies can regulate the temperature to within normal range. But when it is hot for a longer period, they may not be able to keep up with the demand. When this happens, and if the core body temperature reaches 41.1°C (106°F) or above, the animal is said to have heatstroke.

Human's are great at sweating, our pet's aren't. To work out how hot is too hot put on a beanie, fleecy jumper and tracksuit pants. Leave your shoes off. Then jog around the block. Or lie out in the yard. Or stay in the house. Or wait in the car. The moment you start to sweat is the point at which hot is too hot - because your pet can't sweat enough to stay cool.

Calm days are bad news. In animals, most heat loss occurs from convection (cooler air moving over the body), and when the air is still this can not occur.

Instead of sweating dogs use their respiratory system to pant and get rid of heat through evaporation. Flat-faced breeds are at a huge disadvantage because their airway abnormalities and facial bone structure turns their airways into a tight maze. They have to work much harder than other dogs to get air to the lungs. Summer months are a particularly dangerous time for these popular breeds.

Conduction is the process of losing heat through physical contact with another object. Once the bricks warm up, even in the shade, there's no relief.

Hyperthermia (a rise in body temperature above 39.2C) describes the path travelled on the way to heat stroke, and it starts with heat stress.

Heat stress is what you notice first, so pay attention to increased thirst and excessive panting.

It's important to realise that some pets at this point will still want to chase the ball. They are mentally aware and active, but panting heavily. Now is the time to seek the air conditioning, ice blocks and shade. Wading pools will only work if your pet likes water, the water is cool and there is a breeze.

Heat exhaustion comes next, and is usually associated with markedly increased thirst, weakness, and heavy panting. Sometimes pets can still walk, many collapse. They are mentally aware but too tired to react.

If you miss these signs heat stroke is inevitable. When body temperatures exceed 41.1°C the brain, gut, heart, liver, kidneys, blood cells and muscles start to fail.

Higher temperatures and longer durations of heat exposure will lead to more system dysfunctions and increase the risk of death. That is why this Christmas was so bad for so many pets. There was no relief in the evening, no chance to cool down.

Owner's were distracted, and often absent for the hottest periods of the days. They missed the warning signs of heat stress and heat exhaustion. For several days afterwards pets presented not eating, tired, with evidence of damage on their blood tests. It is likely these patients experienced the early stages of heat stroke while their owners were absent.

Unfortunately some pets didn't make it through. Those that were overweight, had heart disease, not acclimated to a warm climate, or of a brachycephalic breed (such as pugs, Boston terriers, and English bulldogs) suffered the worst. Particularly devastating to witness were the puppies.

If you suspect your pet is suffering in the heat here's what you can do.

1. Pour cool (not cold) water over your pet.

The goal of cooling is to reduce body temperature slowly. A sudden drop in body temperature (ice and cold water baths) can make the body feel cold and it will try to warm itself up by forcing blood back to the organs.

2. Do not submerge your pet because the water will quickly heat up and prevent cooling.

3. Bring your pet to the closest veterinary hospital.

At the clinic the staff will continue to provide cooling, and work to support your pets brain by treating for swelling. Oxygen, intravenous fluids, gut protectants, heart monitoring, blood tests and intensive nursing care will all increase your pets chance of survival.

But your pets best chance of survival lies with you. Summer is not over, so pay attention and make sure your pet has relief from the heat at all times.

23/11/2021

Tummy Troubles in Rabbits

Gastrointestinal stasis occurs when the gut fails to perform its usual job of passing food from the start of the gut (the stomach) all the way through to the end. A rabbit that doesn't toilet is in deep ....trouble, so to speak.

There are many things that support gut function, which means there is much we can do to prevent gut stasis and keep our rabbits healthy.

Fibre
Rabbits are strictly herbivores, with a simple stomach and hindgut cecal fermentation, so they need their fibre - as well as for great teeth, fibre creates a healthy stomach, promotes normal gut movement, adequate fermentation, and normal foraging behavior.

To do all this good work fibre needs to be high quality and account for 20-25% of the rabbit diet.

Timothy hay is the preferred fibre source due to the fibre and protein content. Other hays are higher in protein and calcium which may cause rabbits to weight gain and create bladder stones.

Protein
Protein content should be approximately 12-16% of the normal pet rabbit diet.

Carbohydrates
Take care with treats as these can increase carbohydrates, which will accelerate the movement of food through the gut and prevent proper digestion. Undigested carbohydrates will accumulate in the cecum and feed some pretty nasty bacteria.

Pellets
Pellets are the trail mix of the rabbit diet. Rabbits offered pellets in a mix will pick out the goodies, and just like eating all the chocolate buttons from the organic superfood food mix, the outcome is not that super.

If pellets are offered, use timothy pellets only, no mixes, and a larger pellet size. Pellets should be offered in moderation, not free fed, measuring approximately ¼ cup per 2.5kg rabbit per day.

Vegetables
Fresh greens and vegetables listed below should also be offered in moderation with approximately two cups per day for an average rabbit.

Fruits
Fruits should be offered sparingly (high sugar and carbohydrates). Any new foods should be only offered in small amounts and introduced gradually.

Great: Lettuce (romaine, green, red), collard greens, spinach, dandelion greens, cilantro, parsley, carrot tops, beet tops, basil, fresh grass (however not grass clippings)

Sparingly: fruits, carrots, tomatoes, kale

Avoid: the cabbage family (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, bok choy), nuts, beans, grains, dairy products and meat

Housing
Clean, but not too clean. Rabbits need the opportunity to upcycle some of their waste products (less delicately, they eat some of their faeces - caecotrophs).

Boundaries
Free roaming house rabbits may have more opportunity for mischief making, including eating things they shouldn't, chewing on cords, chasing the cat, being chased by the dog etc. This stress or trauma may lead to gastric stasis.

Stress
It's hard being cute, and rabbits get stressed just like everyone else. Changes in household routine such as the addition of new pets or people in the house need to be carefully managed.

Grooming
Rabbits that are regularly groomed have less loose hair to ingest during self care - and less hair means less hair balls.

As well as the above precautions, be on the look out for decreased appetite, fewer stools and decreased water consumption. Early detection of signs such as a decrease in their intake of hay and pellets, losing interest in treats may help you recognise that there is a problem while there is still time to get help.

So if your rabbit is suspiciously quiet, and their housing is suspiciously clean, it's not because they're being considerate - it's because there is a problem brewing.

16/11/2021

My dog ate a ......................
And what to do about it.

1. Sock
What you hope...
So the last one passed, and the one before that,

What the vet worries about...but if this one (or the next) gets stuck it's going to require a credit card and surgery to get it out.

What you should do
Head to the vet within the next 2 hours and find out if the sock can be retrieved from the stomach by inducing vomiting (emesis).

2. Grape
What you hope....
Some dogs eat some grapes and don't have a problem

What the vet worries about...but we don't know which dogs and which grapes will result in kidney failure.

What you should do
Head to the vet as soon as possible and reduce the risk of kidney damage by inducing vomiting (emesis), and administering charcoal.

3. Chocolate
What you hope....
A small amount of low cocoa chocolate won't be a problem

What the vet worries about...but it's not just the cocoa (theobromine) and it's toxic effect on the heart that cause problems, it's the high fat (and any extras - like sultanas)

What you should do
Head to the vet as soon as possible and reduce the risk of complications by inducing vomiting (emesis), and administering charcoal.

4. Onion/garlic/chives & leeks
By now you've spotted a pattern...
Don't hope for the best, seek veterinary care is before red blood cell destruction results. If treated within an hour side effects may be minimised.

5. Snail Pellets
What you hope....
That the pet safe snail pellets you purchased really are pet safe (they are not)

What the vet worries about...that vomiting alone won't be enough to get rid of all the pellets, and a stomach lavage and e***a under general anaesthesia may be required.

What you should do
Head to the vet immediately, and be aware that treatment may be more complicated than simple emesis. Snail pellets are very rapidly life threatening - do not wait to see if signs develop.

6. Rat Bait
What you hope....
That only a small amount (if any was ingested), and that because your pet isn't showing any signs of poisoning (shaking, tremors, vomiting), that they're going to be OK.

What the vet worries about...that if you come in soon enough they can either remove the toxin before it is absorbed (within 1 - 2 hours) or detect it's presence with a blood test (within 72hrs) before it causes internal bleeding.

What you should do
Head to the vet immediately, and be aware that treatment may require emesis, two follow up blood tests and medication if bleeding is detected.

7. Puffer Fish
What you hope....
That you've managed to pull the whole fish out of your dog's mouth before any was swallowed.

What the vet worries about...that puffer fish poisoning is rapid, progressive and has no antidote.

What you should do
If your dog is off lead at the beach, watch closely for scavenging behaviour, and if you are worried that anything has been ingested don't wait for signs of illness.

So if your dog has eaten any of the above, head in to the clinic immediately. Nothing will break your vet's heart faster than losing a patient to a condition that is treatable in the early stages but fatal if left too long.

09/11/2021

Cherry Eye

Along with all their other super-powers dogs (and cats) have three eyelids. This third eyelid is known as the “nictitating membrane,” and supplies nutrients and oxygen to the eye via tear production.

The membrane is usually anchored to the inner rim of the eyelid by a fibrous attachment. If that attachment point weakens the gland can move up and out of its protective pocket, and the ongoing irritation causes it to become a red/pink swollen mass.

When the third eyelid appears front and centre as a small pink cherry the technical term for it is a pr*****ed nictitating membrane. Given a choice, the term cherry eye is so much more descriptive.

Unfortunately for some breeds, cherry eye is a genetic problem, and appears more frequently in breeds with large eyes and shallow eye sockets. If Mum and Dad are affected, chances are higher that the pups will also have the condition, usually appearing in younger dogs between the age of 4 months to two years.

It is important to know that both eyes are likely to be affected, so if it happens in one eye, it is likely to happen in the other. So be sure to keep a lookout for the other eye.

Sometimes cherry eye can correct itself, but often intervention is needed. The more swollen and irritated the cherry eye becomes, the more difficult it is to correct. Keeping the gland moist and protected is important, especially while you decide what treatment approach is best for you and your dog.

There are several options for treatment which include surgical and non-surgical procedures, though surgery is the most common method to correction.

In one method, a surgical procedure is completed to effectively replace the third eyelid gland. Replacement of the gland will greatly reduce your dog’s risk to “dry eye” later in life, and tear production should remain similar – if not the same – to previous levels.

In another method, known as the “pocketing method,” requires suturing of tissue around the prolapse and encasing it in a layer of conjunctiva. This is another common method that surgeons will frequently use.

Another procedure is removal of the gland which used to be the old standard. However, today this is not recommended because it has been shown that complete removal of the gland will reduce tear production in the eye. This reduced tear production leads to other issues later in the dog’s life, including “dry eye.”

Whilst cherry eye is not an emergency, it is important to understand the options and make an informed choice. The Perth Animal Eye Hospital is an excellent place to seek further advice, and a referral can be made by your regular veterinarian.

01/11/2021

Dogs V Cats

Just in case anyone was ever tempted to consider the cat a small version of a dog, flea control products containing permethrin are here to remind us of just how different the two species are.

Permethrin is an insecticide that acts like natural extracts from the chrysanthemum flower. It is considered safe enough to be used on food and feed crops, on ornamental lawns, on livestock and pets, in structures and buildings, and on clothing. Permethrin may also be used in places where food is handled, such as restaurants.

One place permethrins can't be used is on cats, and that is because the cat's liver lacks certain proteins (enzymes) that dogs have in abundance.

This means cats can not break down permethrin into harmless forms, leaving the chemical to accumulate in the cat’s body and cause serious illness. This difference in drug metabolism is why we must never assume that a drug or product which is safe for dogs will be safe to use for cats.

So, for cat's sake, check those flea control products before you apply them. Cat's for cats, dog's for dogs, and for a very good reason.

25/10/2021

Is my pet too old for a dental?

The Australian Veterinary Association reports that 80% of pets over the age of 3 have some degree of dental disease, and need dental care to prevent the build up of plaque that leads to disease.

Peridontal disease damages the support structures that keep healthy teeth in place and can result in receding gums and loose teeth. This makes it difficult for pets to chew and swallow food, resulting in decreased appetite, mood changes and lethargy.

Periodontitis begins with a build up of bacteria in the mouth (plaque). You don't need sugary foods to develop dental disease - for bacteria any food is a feast.

The bacteria from the mouth can enter the bloodstream and spread through the body, causing damage to vital organs such as the heart, liver and kidney; damage that can shorten a pet’s life.

Having a dental clean scale reduces the bacteria in the mouth, and can prevent much of the secondary damage to vital organs. There are also some things you can do at home to help.

1. Ensure dogs receive a good quality, balanced diet.
2. Practice regular at-home dental care.
3. Daily tooth brushing can be effective, but can be quite a bit of work.
4. Dental chews can be beneficial.
5. Ensure regular dental check-ups at the vet.
6. Be aware that including raw, meaty bones in a pet’s diet can cause some serious problems, including potentially broken teeth, constipation and food poisoning, so be aware of these risks.

Even with the best of home care, as pets age most will require a dental. Anaesthesia can sound scary—and you may be worried about some of the risks that might be involved -just as for humans, a consent form must be signed making you aware of the risks of complications.

There are several things that can be done to reduce these risks.

Pre-anaesthetic bloodwork
1. As pets age, they may be more prone to problems with their internal organs. Pre-anaesthetic blood work to check the function of the liver, the kidneys, and other vital organs is therefore recommended.

Antibiotics
2. If your pet has swollen gums, signs of periodontal disease or an abscess, antibiotics prior to the dental will decrease the amount of bacteria traveling from the mouth and help those patients who have a compromised immune system or an underlying disorder of organs such as the heart, liver or kidneys.

Xrays
3. A full mouth x-ray may identify problems lingering under the gum, in the bone or the tooth roots that can be seen only through an x-ray.

Intravenous fluids
4. Fluids given through a vein are helpful during anaesthesia as they support blood pressure and circulation, and allow immediate administration of emergency drugs should they be required.

Advanced monitoring
5. Advanced monitoring systems track oxygen saturation, level of exhaled carbon dioxide, blood pressure, electrical cardiac functioning and temperature, and heart and lung function are carefully and frequently monitored by nurses experienced with side effects of anaesthetic drugs.

Veterinary care
6. The dental cleaning, scaling, polishing and x-rays are often done by veterinary technicians, and a veterinarian plans and supervises the treatment.

With these strategies in place anaesthesia allows a thorough dental exam - tooth-by-tooth exam, tooth mobility tests, probing and radiographs. Teeth can be extracted if necessary, while specialist dentists can perform many of the same salvage treatments as are available in human dentistry.

Whilst all of the choices that life brings carry some degree of risk, a final consideration is this.

In an aging pet sooner may be safer than later, and the pain associated with delaying dental care can become a quality of life issue. In this case, the dental cleaning is medically necessary, and no longer should be considered an "elective" procedure

So if your pet is worried by smelly breath, hard food or discoloured teeth, consider a dental check today.

18/10/2021

How often should I wash my pet?
A fresh scented pet is lovely to cuddle, but how often is enough, necessary or too much? Just like diet, bathing is a matter of individual requirements - and resources!

For a healthy cat or dog just once a month is plenty, and most cats would argue even monthly is too much. But if your dog jumps in the muddiest puddles, then he or she might need a bath more often.

There are also some skin conditions that require more frequent bathing, and some behavioural reasons why a pet should be bathed less.

For healthy pets the RSPCA has a simple guide to bathing pets rspcapetinsurance.org.au/pet-care/dog-care/dog-grooming-guide

For pets with special skin needs you really are best off asking your vet - so please reach out with any questions.

If you have a dog, or are thinking of welcoming a pet dog into your life, it's important that you know about grooming and bathing care. Check out our complete guide to clean and groom your dog.

11/10/2021

What’s the best diet for my pet?
What we eat is closely linked to our health so it’s not surprising that we worry about what we feed our pets just as we care for our own health.

It's important to understand that the right diet will depend on the individual, as each of us and our pet's have different needs. The good news is there are some tips to help you do the best by your pet.

Check the ingredients list on the food you are considering feeding.

Look for specific protein sources. "Animal protein" is less helpful than "chicken" when identifying possible causes of allergies, and remember that it is the protein source not the grain that is most likely to cause itching and allergies.

Gluten-free and grain-free diets are increasingly popular, but sensitivity to gluten is rare in dogs and has never been reported in cats. So grain-free diets may not have such a clear nutritional advantage for our pets.

Raw foods can be a little tricky too, and it is important to consider the potential for contamination. Pathogenic bacteria, such as Escherichia coli, Salmonella, and Clostridium, from raw ingredients, can lead to potential health risks for vulnerable individuals living in the household.

Remember your pet is in close contact with everyone in the house, and when they get sick with the same bacteria we avoid by cooking our food, that bacteria can spread to us.

Spread is especially easy in babies, elderly people, and those with a compromised immune system. Sources of contamination can include dishes used to prepare and feed raw foods, the food itself, and the pet’s saliva and faeces.

Balancing out a homemade diet, cooked or raw, can be a challenge, but help is on hand with veterinarynutritiongroup.com. So if you're considering home cooked make sure you reach out.

Perhaps the most toughest question is bones - to feed or not? If there is anything I have learnt in the time I have shared with pets all over the world it is this - bones can cause heartbreak to pets and owners alike.

Big bones, little bones, cooked or raw; be aware when you offer these to your pet there is inherent risk of illness and injury and make your decision an informed one.

For further information or advice on what to feed your pet, please reach out. Every individual will have different dietary needs.

04/10/2021

With the current urgency to vaccinate the community against COVID, it's a good time to consider how vaccines work in general and why we need specific vaccines for our pets and their diseases.

UK-based organisation Understanding Animal Research states, “Just like children, dogs and cats need vaccinations against dangerous viral and bacterial diseases. Vaccination remains the single most effective method for protecting against infectious disease in healthy animals.”

Just like COVID vaccines have been developed to reduce the risk of COVID infection, and reduce the severity of illness if it does occur, pet vaccines exist to prevent animals from falling ill.

Vaccinations for pets and people are developed under very strict guidelines and adhere to stringent safety rules.

Vaccine injections contain a weak or partial version of a pathogen, a microorganism that causes disease. The weak version in the vaccine alerts the body's defences to the presence of disease. The body responds with the production of antibodies, which will help to fight off future infection.
Scientific evidence indicates that vaccines are both safe and effective at preventing numerous deadly diseases.
If vaccination rates are high disease is rare, but if vaccination rates are low, the risk is that we’ll see the return of many currently rare diseases.
The protection provided by a vaccine decreases over time, which is why repeated (annual) vaccines are required.
The recommended length between vaccinations varies with the disease, vaccine and the individual.

There are several core vaccinations recommended for companion animals in Australia.

According to the RSPCA, core vaccinations for dogs in Australia include:

Canine distemper virus – a deadly disease that attacks a dog’s nervous system and can lead to severe damage, including paralysis. Puppies and young dogs are most susceptible to this virus.
Canine adenovirus – a serious disease that affects the liver, eyes and kidneys.
Canine parvovirus – a fatal and highly common virus that attacks the intestinal tract.
These vaccines are often grouped together in one injection – the ‘C3’ vaccine.

Core vaccinations for cats in Australia include:

Feline parvovirus – also referred to as feline distemper, this viral disease is affects the blood cells in the body that rapidly divide, leading to a feline form of anemia. As a result, the cat can become vulnerable to other bacterial or viral illnesses.
Feline calicivirus – a common respiratory disease.
Feline herpesvirus – a widespread causes of upper respiratory infections resulting in sneezing, watery eyes and congestion.

Some cats live entirely inside, and may still require vaccination if they are in catteries or holiday care, or require hospitalisation.

13/08/2021

Did someone say dinner? Thanks for being a star patient, Daisy, so glad your ear is feeling better.

04/03/2021

Hello, and welcome to VetCalls@Home, where quality vet care comes to your home. Please reach out with any queries, I look forward to helping you and your pet maintain the best of health.

04/03/2021