Dog Academy of New England

20/09/2025

With the man himself! Jacob from Yorkshire Canine Academy

19/09/2025

Waiting to board flight - Yorkshire Canine Academy reactivity seminar on the Sunny Coast - coming atcha!

13/09/2025

Feast your eyes upon this handsome duo! Bubba and Nugget out on walk and train this week 🥰

13/09/2025

Great post explaining the difference between separation anxiety and FOMO. A lot of the training/management methods cross over into other areas of anxiety/hyper arousal.

07/09/2025

05/09/2025

Meet Beau, the most handsome of fellows!
Beau is an amazing Assistance Dog! Just this week we’ve done his Public Access Test for PATDogs Australia!

Have you seen a dog in the supermarket? Chances are if you have, it’s an Assistance Dog! As exciting as it is to see a dog going about your day, commenting on their uniform (jacket and shoes etc) or saying hello to the dog actually distracts them from their very important work as a disability aid. Not all disabilities are visible!
If you see a dog in a strange place when you’re out and about, please give it space to do their work! Contain your excitement til you’re well past and donate to your local charity to acknowledge the awesomeness you’ve witnessed!! 🥰

With thanks and appreciation from every assistance dog owner and trainer everywhere ☺️

05/09/2025

🚨Regretful post… I’ve put it off for as long as I can but I unfortunately have to increase my prices. I hope that this is the last increase for more than a year.
Consultation $110 minimum 60 mins
Adult follow up (dogs over 12 months) $60/session min 30 mins
My Puppy Program (dogs under 12 months) $50/session min 30 mins
Behavioural modification/ Assistance Dogs - contact for quote (severe anxiety, aggression, dogs on menacing/dangerous orders, new rescue aquisitions etc)
Walk and train $55/session minimum 30mins

10% discount for bulk buy (5 or more sessions).

Commencing October 10th 2025

05/09/2025

Are you waiting for dog training?
🐕 🐕 🐕
5 week basic obedience, socialisation and community awareness program!
Thursday afternoon/evening starting early October.
Limited places!
$200 current clients/$250 new clients
Send an inbox message if you’re interested :)😊

29/08/2025

Have you ever seen the abominable snow man conduct a rare training session with her own not-so-bright guard dog in her slippers? 🤣

28/08/2025

In conclusion, this study shows that the risk of cranial cruciate ligament disease in dogs is linked to how long they are exposed to natural s*x hormones, and the relationship isn’t simple or linear. The highest risk was seen when females were spayed before about 1054 days (just under 3 years) and males before about 805 days (a little over 2 years). These results may help define what counts as “early” spay or neuter when it comes to cranial cruciate ligament disease risk.

Veterinary reproduction specialists now recommend hormone-preserving sterilization: preventing unwanted litters & less risk of torn cruciates.

23/08/2025

Negative Reinforcement in Dog Training: What It Is, What It Isn’t (and Why “Negative” Doesn’t Mean “Nasty”)

Negative reinforcement is one of the most misunderstood concepts in dog training. The moment people hear the word negative, many assume it must be harsh, outdated, or cruel. Spoiler: it isn’t. “Negative” here is a mathematical term, not a moral judgement. It simply means something is taken away. Let’s unpack it properly, give clear examples, and show how it can improve communication between you and your dog.

First Principles: The Four Quadrants (Without the Jargon Headache)

In operant conditioning, behaviour changes based on its consequences. There are four basic ways this happens:
• Positive reinforcement: You add something the dog likes to increase a behaviour. (Dog sits → gets a treat.)
• Negative reinforcement: You remove something the dog finds unpleasant to increase a behaviour. (Gentle pressure on the lead → dog steps towards you → pressure stops.)
• Positive punishment: You add something the dog finds unpleasant to decrease a behaviour. (Not what we’re teaching today.)
• Negative punishment: You remove something the dog wants to decrease a behaviour. (Jumping ends the greeting.)

So, negative reinforcement increases behaviour, just like positive reinforcement does. The difference is in how we reinforce: by removing mild pressure or an aversive when the dog makes the right choice.

What Negative Reinforcement Is

A pressure–release system: apply light, information-rich pressure; the instant the dog offers the correct response, the pressure goes away. The removal of that pressure is the reinforcer.

Two common forms:
1. Escape learning – the dog learns a behaviour that turns off an existing pressure.
Example: steady upward lead pressure → dog sits → pressure stops.
2. Avoidance learning – the dog learns a behaviour that prevents pressure from starting.
Example: dog maintains a loose lead position to avoid the return of gentle tension.

Done well, this is not dramatic, not painful, and not personal. It’s a clean, binary message: “That movement turns the pressure off.” Think of it as a dog-friendly hot/cold game.

What Negative Reinforcement Isn’t
• It isn’t punishment. Punishment aims to reduce behaviour; negative reinforcement increases it.
• It isn’t the absence of rewards. The “reward” is the relief, the pressure turning off. You can (and should) often add food, toy, or praise on top.
• It isn’t inherently harsh. Intensity matters. Good trainers use the lightest effective pressure, with sharp timing and swift release.
• It isn’t nagging. Constant, low-level pressure that never goes away is just noise. If pressure is on, it must be meaningful and brief, and it must turn off as soon as the dog tries.

Everyday Human Examples (So You Can Feel It)
• Seatbelt buzzer: You click the belt, the annoying beeping stops. You now belt up faster. That’s negative reinforcement.
• Kitchen timer: You remove the cake from the oven; the timer stops shrieking. You’re reinforced to respond promptly next time.
• Rain jacket: You wear it to avoid getting soaked. The behaviour (putting on the jacket) is maintained by avoiding discomfort.

If you can accept these in human life, you already accept negative reinforcement in principle.

Why Use It? Clarity, Confidence, and Real-World Handling
• Clarity: Pressure–release is a tidy, tactile signal. Dogs feel it instantly, even when food is low-value (stress, heat, competing motivators).
• Confidence: Predictable release builds trust. The dog learns, “I control the pressure by making a good choice.”
• Transferable skills: Yielding to pressure underpins loose-lead walking, handling, grooming, and husbandry, all crucial life skills.

Think of light pressure as a turn signal, not a telling-off.

Clean Mechanics: How to Do It Well
1. Start light. Use the lowest effective pressure (lead, body position, environmental pressure).
2. Hold steady, don’t yank. The signal should be calm and consistent, not a jerk.
3. Release instantly when the dog even tries the right answer. The release is the reinforcer.
4. Mark and double up. Pair the release with a marker (“Yes!”) and often follow with food, toy, or praise. This “double reinforcement” accelerates learning and keeps emotions positive.
5. Split the steps. Break behaviours into small, winnable pieces to avoid frustration.
6. Fade the pressure. As the dog learns, rely more on verbal/hand cues and positive reinforcement.

Trainer-Tested Examples (With Step-by-Step)

1) Loose-Lead Foundations: “Follow the Slack”
• Set-up: Dog on a flat collar or harness and a long, soft lead.
• Action: Apply gentle, steady backward or lateral tension (no pulsing).
• Dog’s success: The micro-moment the dog steps towards you or the lead goes slack, release the tension and mark “Yes!”, then move forward and reward.
• Goal: Dog learns that staying near you keeps the lead loose (avoidance); moving toward you turns off pressure (escape).

2) Sit on Lead: “Pressure Means Park”
• Action: Apply light, upward lead pressure.
• Dog’s success: Bottom heads towards the floor → release pressure the instant the hips fold, mark, reward.
• Add a cue: Say “Sit” just before you apply pressure; soon the word predicts the behaviour, and the lead becomes redundant.

3) Kennel/Crate Entry with Body Pressure
• Action: Stand at a slight angle to the crate entrance, creating mild spatial pressure by stepping in a touch.
• Dog’s success: When the dog steps into the crate, you step back (pressure off), mark, reward in the crate.
• Progression: Gradually reduce how much you need to step in; keep paying inside the crate to create a pleasant association.

4) Handling & Husbandry: “Stillness Turns Off the Faff”
• Action: For a dog fidgety with collar checks, apply gentle steady hand contact (or minimal restraint).
• Dog’s success: Stillness for a beat → release hand, mark, and reward calmly.
• Note: Keep intensity low; we’re shaping cooperation, not pinning statues.

Advanced trainers may use tools such as remote collars; legality and ethics vary by region. The principle remains: lowest effective pressure, instant release, clean pairing with positive reinforcement. Always check local laws and professional guidelines.

Common Misconceptions (Let’s Bust Them)
• “Negative = bad.” No. It means remove. This quadrant is about turning off something mildly unpleasant to grow a behaviour.
• “It ruins relationships.” Used fairly, with precision and followed by positive reinforcement, it often improves clarity and confidence.
• “It’s only for ‘tough’ dogs.” Untrue. Many sensitive dogs prefer a light, consistent tactile cue over the chaos of mixed verbal signals.
• “Food is enough for everything.” Food is fantastic. But in chaotic, distracting, or functional tasks (lead skills, husbandry), pressure–release communicates instantly, even when roast chicken loses its charm.

Ethical Guardrails (Read These Twice)
• Fairness first: Does the dog know what turns pressure off? Have you taught the behaviour in tiny steps?
• Watch the dog: Tongue flicks, pinned ears, stress panting, avoidance, dial it down or change plan.
• No nagging: Pressure on = information. Pressure off = relief. If you can’t turn it off quickly, you’re not at the right step.
• Pair with positives: Relief + food/play/praise cements learning and keeps the emotional picture bright.
• Document and review: Keep sessions short, write outcomes, and progress thoughtfully.

Troubleshooting
• Dog braces or pulls harder: Your pressure is too strong or ambiguous. Reduce intensity, change direction, or split the step finer.
• Dog shuts down: You’ve skipped steps or overcooked the duration. Reset, use shorter reps, and layer in more positive reinforcement.
• Lead stays tight: Your release timing is late. Practise with a human partner to refine instant off mechanics.
• Dog only works “under pressure”: You didn’t fade the pressure. Add clear cues, build reinforcement history, and gradually remove the prompt.

Building a Blended System (Because Real Life Isn’t a Quadrant)

The most robust training plans blend quadrants thoughtfully:
1. Teach with pressure–release at whisper levels to create fast clarity (negative reinforcement).
2. Mark the release and follow with food or play to make the behaviour joyful and durable (positive reinforcement).
3. Proof gradually against distractions with clear criteria and frequent success.
4. Fade prompts so the behaviour runs on your cue and reinforcement history, not on pressure.

This produces dogs that respond because they understand, not because they’re coerced.

Quick Reference: Do’s & Don’ts

Do
• Use the lightest effective pressure; release like a camera shutter.
• Mark and pay after the release, double reinforcement wins.
• Split behaviours into small, easy slices.
• Keep sessions short, upbeat, and progressive.

Don’t
• Jerk, nag, or leave pressure on as background noise.
• Skip steps or ignore stress signals.
• Assume “negative” equals “bad” and throw out useful tools.
• Forget to fade the pressure and build value in the cue.

Final Thoughts

Negative reinforcement, done properly, is neither a dirty word nor a dark art. It’s a simple, fair, and highly effective way to increase desired behaviours by making the right choice feel instantly better. Used with finesse, low intensity, crisp timing, instant release, and paired with positive reinforcement, it provides crystal-clear communication that dogs understand.

In short: pressure to guide, release to teach, and rewards to delight. That’s not nasty, that’s good training.
www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

12/06/2025

It really grinds my gears when someone within the animal industry steps outside of their speciality to make comment on something they clearly do not understand or know very little about. Particularly when they make my client feel uncomfortable about the tools we are using which are dramatically improving their dogs behaviour.
Can anyone clarify for me just how long a vet spends studying canine behaviour and cognition and the correct and appropriate application of training tools? Last vet I asked said they did one single unit in their whole 6 year degree. I’ve trained vet’s personal pet dogs because they said, and I quote “I have no idea how to train dogs”. I’ve spent literal YEARS studying canine behaviour and cognition, with some of Australia’s most experienced dog trainers; and further years attending every seminar I can afford, doing my own research and follow up study outside of my course, not to mention years in the seat and around a thousand dogs trained.

If you’re not sure how something works, why it’s being applied, what indicators are being monitored to collate data as evidence that processes and training models are effacious, the ethical implementation of said methods and constant ongoing assessment and adaptation to ensure each individual dog is having its needs met whilst aiming for best behavioural outcomes - maybe ask??? Get down off your uni degree high horse and recognise that reading one study doesn’t equate to the 4 times a week over the past 18 months I’ve been working with this specific dog in question. By the way, what was your alternative option? Sedate to the back teeth?? Great quality of life that is!

And by that same token, if a client ever comes back to me after trying something I haven’t suggested or thought of or some tip or trick another trainer/vet has mentioned and is having great results - AWESOME! All I ever want is for happy, healthy dogs achieving appropriate client based goals so they can live their best lives harmoniously without the need to rehome, abandon or worse because people feel hopeless and helpless due to the dog’s (often modifiable) behaviour. Shouldn’t we all want that in this industry??