Integrative Equine

Integrative Equine Offering a variety of services that benefit both the horse and their human.
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An interesting read. I have been letting my living forages grow, for a few reasons, but one thing I have come to believe...
05/15/2024

An interesting read. I have been letting my living forages grow, for a few reasons, but one thing I have come to believe is that the older the grasses, the better for the horses.

Transitioning to barefoot is hard, but not impossible. Environment and movement are two main factors in successful trans...
10/27/2023

Transitioning to barefoot is hard, but not impossible. Environment and movement are two main factors in successful transitions.

Q: Our horses have been barefoot since last winter. They are still ouchy on rocks! We use hoof boots on rocky ground, but I want to know how long this barefoot transition will take.

A: An important thing to keep in mind is that the hooves adapt to whatever situation they are exposed to most of the day. So when they were shod, they adapted to the shoes. Now they are bare, but what do they live on most of the day? That is what they will adapt to. So if they live on soft grass or soft dirt, then you take then out once a week on rocky terrain, they can't possibly adapt to that.

In general, if you want to ride on rocky terrain, they really have to live on rocky terrain (once the hooves are healthy, of course). Many people will put areas of pea gravel in their horses' pasture, so they can be exposed to some rock. Pea gravel is actually very good for their feet, and very comfortable for them. Serious trail riders will create a natural habitat for their horses consisting of a variety of surfaces to help condition the feet for varied terrain. Riding an hour daily over varied terrain can also help, though it still can't substitute for the other 23 hours a day. But if it is not possible for you to change their living situation, the answer is what you are already doing - boots for rocky ground.

As far as how long it takes a horse to transition from shod to barefoot, it all depends on where you begin. If the hooves are not that badly deformed from wearing the shoes, if they are still naturally shaped, then the transition will be quick. If the hooves have greatly changed into an unnatural shape, the transition will take many years. Some horses will never be able to regain a truly natural shape, because too much damage happened (including permanent coffin bone damage), but they can still be healthier and comfortable, and their hooves will slowly improve over time. You can imagine, if a horse was shod for 10 years, and his hooves slowly changed over that decade - to "undo" the changes might take about the same amount of time.

Join us on Hoof Help Online, where you can find friendly, positive help with your horse's barefoot transition, learn how to trim hooves safely with a detailed barefoot trimming course, study gigantic libraries filled with barefoot horse information, and enjoy the company of like-minded people. Direct link under our page's featured section, or just add the normal dot com to HoofHelpOnline... Happy Hooves! - Yvonne Welz

10/19/2023
Any of my clients looking to learn a bit more about hoof care, this is a great opportunity!!
10/03/2023

Any of my clients looking to learn a bit more about hoof care, this is a great opportunity!!

Learn all the things! Clinic running at Heroncrest in Smiths falls November 3-5. Sign up here!
https://forms.gle/21LSTRPjeoBevird6

I have a couple of young horses, and the longer I wait, the happier I am, as I find more and more things supporting the ...
08/17/2023

I have a couple of young horses, and the longer I wait, the happier I am, as I find more and more things supporting the waiting. I’m in no rush.

This is why it is so important not to ride your horse to young. The 'cracks' you see above and below the joints of the bone are bones that have not 'sealed' yet. This sealing starts between 3 to 5 years old....Everyone should be aware of over training /over jumping / over schooling the adolescent horse under 5 years of age - The surface area of a hoof absorbs the equivalent of 1000lb per square inch of concussive pressure every time your horse lands - This combined with over working an unfit unmuscled horse or at a young age leads to the numerous cases of joint degeneration, navicular pedalastitis, fused and kissing spines, hock damage that are so prevalent at the moment - So before you all rush off to JUMP JUMP JUMP JUMP HIGHER AND HIGHER AND HIGHER on your incredibly young green and unmuscled horse consider this.............If you care as much about or horse as you claim if you truly love your horse and want it to remain fit and healthy and in your care for life then formulate an incremental gadget free training plan work your horse on a good surface feed him well and care for his joints - the competitions can wait another year - abuse your horse too early and he will not see the year out without nerve blocks and infiltrations - Your horse deserves the best care and you deserve the best horse so train him .

08/05/2023
Always learning
08/03/2023

Always learning

Anyone interested in learning to trim!!
05/17/2023

Anyone interested in learning to trim!!

For those concerned about the spring grasses and any potential acute laminitis flare ups!
05/02/2023

For those concerned about the spring grasses and any potential acute laminitis flare ups!

A C T I V A T E D C H A R C O A L

What is activated charcoal and why should every horse owner have some to hand?

Activated charcoal is made from substances containing a large amount of carbon. Wood, peat and coconut shells for example. It is heated under high temperatures and oxidises to create the 'activation'. In simplistic terms, what this does is to create lots of small pores on the surface of the charcoal which makes it very absorptive (it is believed that one teaspoon of activated charcoal has a surface area of over 7000m2!)

How does it work?

Activated charcoal works by absorbing compounds into the small pores on it's surface. Used in the gut (it has not been proven to be beneficial outside of the gut when consumed) it can absorb poisons and toxins. The charcoal then passes through the gut and takes away those compounds with it.

What is it used for?

In horses, veterinarians may use activated charcoal to help with illnesses such as acorn toxicosis and colic.
The main reason I want to address its use though, is for its potential to help stop or lessen a laminitis attack (when used straight away).

In my profession as a barefoot trimmer and also running a track system, I often hear from worried owners who have horses that have escaped onto lush grass. If this escape has been recent, part of the response should be a correct dosage of activated charcoal (see manufacturers instructions for detail as it may vary product to product).

When higher levels of sugars and starches (such as from sugary grasses or cereal) overflow into the hindgut rather than being digested and absorbed by the time they reach the small intestine, this will have a knock-on effect in the caecum and colon. The bacteria in a horse's gut will then produce a higher level of lactic acid than they do when digesting fibre (an issue called hindgut acidosis). This acid starts to kill the gut bacteria which release toxins as they die. Those toxins then pass into the bloodstream and can cause severe, acute laminitis.

It is important to act quickly if your horse has consumed an amount of high sugar or starch feed as activated charcoal needs to be given before any toxin has been absorbed into the bloodstream. This means don't wait to see signs of laminitis because at that point, the toxins have already travelled to the blood and the damage is already being done. It takes around an hour for food to be digested by the small intestine and then a further 10 hours in the caecum so waiting longer than that to administer is not advised.

When shouldn't it be used?

Activated charcoal can absorb certain medications so it is important to check this before administering it as it may stop important medication from working.
Long term use hasn't been fully studied but it is believed that it can cause gastrointestinal upset if used over a long period of time.
It can also bind with beneficial nutrients such as Vitamin C so again, used long term, may deprive your horse of vital nutrients in its diet.

It is important not to use activated charcoal as a 'crutch' to enable grass turnout in a susceptible or compromised horse.

It is also important to ALWAYS consult your vet with serious concerns. They are able to deliver activated charcoal by nasogastric tubes which will help them reach the area they are needed more swiftly if required and should be consulted in general for health concerns.

That being said, it is something I ALWAYS have in my horsey 'cupboard of tricks' just in case. Very useful to have at hand at all times.
Most tack shops carry activated charcoal or it can be ordered easily online, it is readily available.

©️ L. Johnson/Graveney Equine 2023

This is really neat, and if I could create an environment that meant I maybe didn’t have to do my own horses, I likely w...
04/19/2023

This is really neat, and if I could create an environment that meant I maybe didn’t have to do my own horses, I likely would!

THE PERFECT TRIM: (different picture is the only change here...thank you for the feedback on how this was coming across)

--TT


I'm going to tell you how to trim a horse's hooves, no matter what kind of job the horse has, no matter where the horse lives, no matter what the horse eats. Or at least I'm going to familiarize you with what you'll need to consider to be successful with that. Sound good?

That seemingly impossible claim lies in the following truth: The soundest and highest performing horses in any sport, on any terrain, on any land mass on the planet are the ones that DON'T need their hooves trimmed. These are the horses that don't need you or the farrier to intervene and 'improve' on anything. They are "self-trimming", balancing growth with exfoliation day to day, responding quickly to changes in moisture, mileage and herd dynamics. They are pictures of health, their minds and bodies having been very active to accomplish what they have with their hooves.

If you want to know how to trim your eventing horse or barrel racing mare or your best trail riding gelding, look for examples of horses in your area that do ENOUGH of that kind of work to trim themselves, watch how they move and observe how their hooves are shaped and then apply what you have learned to your own horse that you have high hopes for, leaving at least some material on the hooves to wear off ON ITS OWN. There are many, many lovely and obsessed people that ride their horses enough that their hooves never need trimmed...which is very cool.

Simple. Take some pictures and use your excellent observational skills to learn from horses that are successful on their OWN feet, trimming their own feet while doing what they do. Take that information and compare it to your own horses to see where improvements can be made. Hint: use the internet for pictures.

Visualize a sculpture-over-time. Just as you are learning and growing as an amazing individual human person, chipping away at parts that don't serve you and nurturing and preserving parts of you that do, such is the horse and the hooves at the foundation of that horse. Your horse must count on you to help--it's a big responsibility, but that's OK. Things may not be “pretty” as you are blossoming in to a better and better form, but you’ve got what you’ve got to work with, so let’s do it. TRUST (there’s that word again) that your horse can do this while you as the ignorant one are trying to pay attention and learn something more real and way better...no more band-aids. I can look at a horse with crappy feet and see a few months in to the future, that foundation getting stronger and stronger over time. I can see that because I know what is possible, have a ton of experience doing it, am wildly successful at doing it, and am willing to help you get there. Your job is to do the best you can by showing up with a Willingness to do it and some Trust that it will work. Trust or don’t. Allow me and others familiar with this work to rub those wrinkles out of your forehead, or not. It’s up to you. If you’ve done it one way long enough and want to do it Better, great. This information is not for everyone...it is helpful for every horse.

1. Trim excess hoof material to respectfully nudge those hooves towards a better shape...a shape that you have learned is conducive to the level of performance you are shooting for.

2. Leave material behind, especially on the sole, to wear off on its own. One of the five major functions of the hoof is exfoliation. This process helps "drive" and stimulate the next appropriate growth. Taking everything that is "ready to exfoliate" removes a major function of the hoof, and is harmful and wounding, slowing the horse down instead of moving them towards better form and comfortable function. Do less more frequently to make faster progress. Having to use nippers is an indication you’ve waited too long to trim.

3. Realize that your hand tools are taking the place of the terrain that would normally shape the hooves, and that you are providing this service "for free". Within minutes, you have changed the shape of the horse's foundation, and the horse didn't have to expend more than a few calories to balance on three legs at a time. Therefore no callousing has been imparted, no concussion experienced to stimulate internal structures, no opportunity for the thousands upon thousands of landings and breakovers, little to no physical exertion for the body, less stimulation for the nervous system, vastly diminished volumes of blood that would have passed through the hooves... ...

Can you better appreciate the importance of your job as a trimmer and the responsibility you have not to trim too much?

3. Most horses moving on their own feet even a little bit have areas of wear to recognize and then “complement” with your tools. The hardest horses to trim are those that don’t show the trimmer any beginnings of wear...no “cues” from the horse as to how the hoof “wants to be shaped”. Using these worn areas, finish what the horse has started to do, without over-trimming. Over –trimming is removing hoof material to a degree that doesn’t leave some behind for the horse to wear off on their own.

4. Get some hoof Boots with pad inserts for your horse, whether you think you’ll need them or not. It’s wonderful to be able to go have some FUN with your horse while things are getting better. Many (if not all?) of my clients heal alongside their horses in many ways. If your horse is sore, put the boots on. Boots are honestly protective to hooves, while steel shoes are uniformly damaging.

5. Hoof care from experience is invaluable. Contracting with someone to be on your team to move you and your horses towards health is vital. Most farriers love horses and are willing to help. If they are unsure or hesitant (fearful), this will frustrate all of you. The responsible thing to do is to find help that is experienced, confident and compassionate. Stay focused on where you’re going, not where you’ve been, and find joy and gratitude in the process.

6. I haven’t mentioned angles or measurements or mustang rolls or bar-height or heel depth or balance. It would be a disservice to do so, as each hoof on each horse is different. As you do your research and get more and more familiar with what is beautiful/healthy versus deformed/diseased, you will recognize where your horse is at on that path to health, and along with competent help, you’ll all be happier.

I honestly thought I was being a whiney baby with these things, but this year, in the last few weeks, I have seen so man...
10/26/2022

I honestly thought I was being a whiney baby with these things, but this year, in the last few weeks, I have seen so many posts about Mud and wet legs. I’m so glad that I am not alone, and kind of glad to realize that it even has a safety aspect to it.… and these are such good points all of which go through my head when I feel like it’s better just to keep my mouth shut. I may be changing my approach to these situations, for my sanity, safety and the safety of your horses.

Before the mud season has us in its full grip, here's my annual winter housekeeping post.

Please clean and dry up your horse's feet before a trim.

My ability to do a good trim suffers - I can't see what's underneath: bruises, dark or light spots, or anything else that would determine or refine my trim decisions is hidden under a sea of brown. I can't stabilise a slippery foot properly, which neither me, nor the horse, nor my trim likes.

My tools suffer - the grit in the mud dulls every single one of my (expensive) tools and shortens their life span. The moisture causes rust. In the end, this raises my trimming costs significantly.

My body suffers - I hold and hug those feet and legs with my arms and legs. I have walked away from a muddy horse with mud up to my armpits before. That makes for a very cold and wet day. And all of that goes into my car too every time I leave a site - the car wash place has a mugshot of me on the wall reading "charge her double, car is filthy, apparently she works with horses".

Bring them in five minutes earlier, grab an old towel and give them a good rub (legs too!). It makes the world of a difference to my work and my body, and tbh my mood too!

And thanks to everybody who is already proactively doing this. It's very much appreciated!

I have learned a few times about the importance of the poll, but this is a really interesting read.
10/10/2022

I have learned a few times about the importance of the poll, but this is a really interesting read.

We have had a long spell of dryness for many of the horses I work with, this is helpful for those concerned about the ch...
09/05/2022

We have had a long spell of dryness for many of the horses I work with, this is helpful for those concerned about the chipping and the weird cracking on the soles of the hooves! This doesn’t have pictures of that second thing I’ve mentioned, but it is all connected

12/10/2019

Integrative Equine

12/10/2019

Integrative Equine's cover photo

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Caledonia, Haldimand
Caledonia, ON
N3W

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+19056791007

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