Acadia Kennels

11/13/2024

https://www.instituteofcaninebiology.org/blog/do-your-puppies-have-enough-traction-in-the-whelping-box

By Carol Beuchat PhD

11/12/2024

https://dogwellnet.com/files/file/284-genetics-articles-dr-jerold-bell/?do=download&confirm=1

11/12/2024

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4778&v=r6iqeF4al7E&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fdogwellnet.com%2F&source_ve_path=MTM5MTE3LDI4NjY2

Presented by the International Partnership for Dogs (IPFD) in cooperation with the World Small Animal Association (WSAVA) - Wednesday, October 23, 2024More i...

11/11/2024

Understanding Line Breeding
By Bob Plott

Last month we discussed the importance of using a legitimate documented pedigree as a road map for any successful dog-breeding program. To briefly recap, if a hunter/breeder is serious about developing his own line of bear dogs – or at the very least, interested in consistently producing a high quality bear hound for multiple generations – then he or she must know the specific lineage, and the desired traits of all the dogs that preceded them.

That pedigree can be a formally authorized document from one of the official dog registers –such as the UKC, AKC, or others – or it can be something as simple as a handwritten document meticulously maintained for generations by an individual breeder. They both serve the same purpose and both work equally as well. The point here is that you need a road map of this type to record and track your breeding success –or lack of same. And in my opinion, if you are breeding for the long haul, for long-term success, or especially if you are trying to develop your own strain or bloodline, then an accurate pedigree is integral to your success.

I want to reiterate that this principle applies to any hunting dog breed –not just Plotts. Yes, my preferred breed is the Plott hound, and thus my explanations and examples all generally pertain to that breed and the respective breed icons that perpetuated it. But these arguments apply to any pure bred hunting dog –period – or at least in my opinion they do.

The importance of pedigree is even more important to anyone doing successful line breeding. In this issue we’d like to explain our understanding of line breeding and in-breeding, the difference between the two, and the reasons why sound line breeding techniques are imperative to any successful long term breeding program for any type of hunting dog.

I don’t claim to be a genetics expert or anything close to a scientist or doctor. I keep things simple here because I am not smart enough to do it any other way, and as I said before, I am only sharing with you what other folks –who were or still are experts – graciously shared with me. I take no credit for any of it; all the glory should go to them.

First, let’s define line breeding. The late, great, Homan Fielder originated his legendary Bear Pen Plott hound line in 1954, and Mr. Homan –assisted by his sons Steve and Randy – perpetuated this legacy for well over half a century. Steve Fielder continues that tradition still today. Not only does Steve have a rich family history due his connection to the Bear Pen line, but also he literally spent his entire professional career working for the major kennel clubs such as the UKC, AKC and PKC. So Steve is well versed and knowledgeable about all hunting dog breeds –not just Plott hounds.

Back in 2004 I asked Steve Fielder for his expert definition of line breeding. This was his reply: “Line breeding is a term used to describe the breeding of dogs, within their own family bloodlines, but in this case, (and different from in-breeding) a bit further apart –such as uncle to niece, aunt to nephew, cousin to cousin, etc. Dog breeders use line breeding techniques to gather and retain as many genes possible of a specific dog. By breeding back to the canine whose traits they hope to replicate or reproduce they should produce dogs with similar positive traits.”

In other words, the breeder’s objective in line breeding is to stay within the same bloodlines, and breed close –but not too close – within their respective lineage. And in doing so, you should consistently produce dogs with similar qualities and genetic traits for multiple generations.

Many confuse line breeding with in-breeding, and while that’s understandable, there is a big difference between the two. In-breeding is breeding dogs VERY closely within the same bloodlines –such as a mother or father to their pup, or brother to sister, etc.

The negative end results of inbreeding can lead to pups suffering from physical and mental defects. Although it must be dully noted some breeders are willing to risk this because they sometimes will produce a superior dog, almost identical to the sire and dam. I won’t name names here, but you can find a few world-class dogs in all breeds that were a result of in-breeding –so you can hit the jack pot occasionally by in-breeding.

However, in my experience this is exceedingly rare. Far more often the litters consist of pups with serious problems that have to be put down. I refuse to do it myself for the above mentioned reasons, plus carrying, producing and caring for a healthy litter is hard on a gyp. You only get to breed a good female just a few times in her hunting and breeding career, so in my opinion you need to maximize your chances for success every time –and you definitely don’t want to make it more difficult or harder by in-breeding.

Moreover, I just have more respect for my dogs’ than to put them it that situation. I guess if you are the sort of the breeder that considers your animals as nothing more than disposable tools that you can afford to lose without concern, then that’s your right. But that’s not for me. I am not being critical of anyone else, just stating our beliefs.

Line breeding is especially important for anyone wanting to originate their own strain or lineage, as well as to any breeder who wants to retain or maintain their existing bloodlines for future generations. And as we discussed last month, a written pedigree of some type is imperative to achieving either of these objectives.

Many folks want to start their own line of dogs –but few have the knowledge, or just as importantly, the time and patience to do it. It takes 25 to 30 years to develop and refine your own bloodline, and even longer to maintain it. In my opinion, good line breeding techniques are the best way to do it. And even then, if those techniques are not maintained correctly decades of hard work can be lost with only one out-cross to another bloodline.

Now, don’t get me wrong, many breeders have produced consistently fine bear dogs for many years by doing nothing more than just breeding the best to the best regardless of the bloodline. That is a simple time tested formula that no one can contest. However, the end result may be a superior bear dog—which is all that most of us want anyway –but it is still, at best, hit and miss breeding –with usually a lot more misses in the litters. This is due to the fact that you don’t always know exactly what’s behind the dogs you are breeding to. That’s where line breeding and pedigree comes in.

As usual, I always go back to the old master, Vaughn “Von” Plott (1896-1979) for his insight on this. Here are his thoughts on the subject:

“My father, Montraville Plott, (1850-1924) always had good horses, good chow and good dogs. He told me how to keep the dog breeding in line. He taught me all that glitters is not gold and to keep the breeding secrets safe. I think that’s why our dogs are better than any others. We breed pure Plotts. We don’t mix them with anything else. Mine are pure bred just like my daddy left them to me. I breed mine straight. Everything that’s pretty don’t shine! I line breed them. I don’t breed brother to sister, daughter to father or any of that in-breeding. I breed the best to the best and I know what’s behind all of them. And how do I know which dogs are the best? I take ‘em to the woods and see! THAT’S the way to find out. See who’s who!”

That pretty much sums it up for me. There’s an old saying here in the south about there being more than one way to skin a cat. I am not sure where that came from, but the same applies to successful dog breeding. There are many ways to do it and almost anyone that is successful will argue that their method is the best.

But I am not that way. I am not saying–the Plott family way is best. But what I am saying is this; If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it, and if it was good enough for my legendary family members –and their friends like Bud Lyon, Gola Ferguson, Taylor Crockett, Gerald Jones, and Isaiah Kidd, among others – that all came before me, then it’s dang sure good enough for me.

Next time, we’ll discuss other bear hound related topics aside from breeding techniques. But until then, thanks for your time. I sincerely hope that God will richly bless and protect you, your family and your dogs in all that you do. Good hunting my friends!

11/11/2024

Simple strategies to reduce genetic disorders in dogs
12/29/2018

By Carol Beuchat PhD

Over the last few decades, the number of genetic disorders in dogs has been increasing at an alarming rate. This is despite the diligent efforts of breeders to breed healthy dogs. Why is this happening?

I have created a very basic flow chart to illustrate how a breeding strategy to reduce genetic disorders in a population will actually have the opposite effect. I will go through each of the steps in the process, and you can follow along on the picture.

1) Let's start with a population of dogs in a closed gene pool like the one in the left circle below. Because all the dogs in the population come from a small number of founders, they are all related. Breeding two together is likely to produce offspring that are homozygous for some loci; that is, they inherit two copies of an allele that originated in a common ancestor of both parents. In the flow chart, the inbreeding step results on average in an increase in homozygosity in the offspring.
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2) Every dog carries dozens or even hundreds of recessive mutations. For the most part, these cause no problems if there is only a single copy of the mutation and the other allele at the locus is normal. But if two copies of the mutation are inherited, there is no copy of the normal allele. This is why inbreeding, which results in homozygosity. increases the expression of these recessive mutations.

3) Homozygosity also has more general detrimental effects on function such as reduced fertility, smaller litters, higher puppy mortality, shorter lifespan, etc., which we collectively call "inbreeding depression". Inbreeding also increases the incidence of polygenic disorders such cancer, epilepsy, immune system disorders, heart and kidney issues, and others.
4) Dogs with genetic disorders are usually removed from the breeding population.

5) Removing dogs from the breeding population reduces the size of the gene pool.

6) Smaller gene pools have less genetic diversity.

7) With less genetic variation in the population, the genetic differences among individuals are reduced and their similarity and relatedness increases.

​8) Breeding related animals is inbreeding, so once again this step results in an increase in homozygosity.
From here, we now have a negative feedback loop that goes back to the top of the list of steps. Again, the increased homozygosity increases inbreeding depression, the risk of cancer, epilepsy, and other polygenic disorders, and the expression of recessive mutations.

The result of this negative feedback loop is the steady deterioration in health of the population over the generations unless there is appropriate intervention.
Let's have a look at the cycle for the population of dogs in the circle on the right in the illustration.

a) Breeders are very selective about which dogs are used for breeding. In general, about 25% of the purebred puppies produced are bred, and typically this is only one or two puppies per litter.

b) Of course, this means that 75% of the puppies are not bred. Removing them and any unique genes they may carry from the breeding population reduces the size of the gene pool.

c) Smaller gene pools have less genetic diversity.

d) If there is less genetic diversity, the dogs in the population are more similar to each other genetically.

e) Breeding dogs that are similar genetically will produce homozygosity in the offspring.

f) Homozygosity increases the expression of deleterious mutations.

Ultimately, the path feeds into the steps we have already described that form a negative feedback loop that increases the incidence of genetic disease.
The goal of selective breeding is to produce quality dogs. The two breeding strategies we have just described, breeding of related dogs (inbreeding) and breeding "the best to the best", do not result in improvement except in the short term. In the long term, the loss of genetic diversity limits the possibility of genetic improvement because the population has lost the genetic variation needed for selection. Inbreeding depression and increased incidence of genetic disease reduce the quality of the breeding stock, and improvement - or just maintaining quality - becomes more and more difficult. Without intervention, animal populations bred this way will go extinct.
If you understand the downstream consequences of breeding decisions, which are depicted as steps in these flow charts, you can prevent this cycle of genetic deterioration. For example, the simplest action to take is to be less restrictive about which animals are bred.

Breeding 50% instead of 25% of the puppies produced will reduced the depletion of the gene pool.

Breeding dogs that are less closely related will reduce the risk of producing genetic disorders in the puppies, and it will also reduce inbreeding depression. Replacing genes lost from a population through outcrosses to another population (i.e., through a plan of rotation breeding) or introduction via a cross-breeding program will broaden the gene pool and mitigate the negative effects of selective breeding.

DNA testing is a valuable tool but not the holy grail. By itself, it will not result in healthy dogs. Ultimately, to improve the health of the purebred dog we need to understand basic population genetics and follow a sound strategy for genetic management. Solving the problem requires understanding the cause and how some simple changes in the way we breed can dramatically improve the quality of the dogs we produce.

11/11/2024

Understanding Dogs
Temperament in Dogs – Its Role in Decision Making
by Dr. Radcliffe Robins

What is meant when we speak about the temperament of a dog? This term is very often used, but very little understood by the users. It is however clear that by using the term an attempt is being made to define or describe certain attributes of the dog’s behaviour. What specifically is being described?
How does the knowledge of temperament affect the decisions about the dog made by the shelter? Should the dog be placed at all, or euthanased? Should it be placed in a family with young children or in a single person household? Is this dog temperamentally appropriate for an older person? Will its mental characteristics allow it to be a good companion, and provide some measure of joy and comfort to its owners, or will it be a burden to them. These are some of the questions that this presentation will help you to answer.
Before giving a practical and working definition of temperament I would like to share with you a few variants that can be found in the literature.

1. Norma Bennett Woolf (Dog Owner’s Guide), describes temperament as “the general attitude a dog has towards other animals and people.” She continues “Temperament is inherited but can be modified or enhanced by the environment.”
2. Two training specialist and canine behaviourists Joachim Volhard and Gail Fisher define Temperament as “the dog’s suitability for a specific task or function.” They explain further, “there are no good or bad temperaments,” only “suitable or unsuitable” ones.
3. GoodPooch.com supports Volhard and Fisher’s view and go on to state, “Simply put, the term "temperament" is similar to the word "personality."

The above views suffer significant disadvantages.
In the first case “general attitude” is an interpretation of the observer and lends itself to subjective interpretation. The general attitude of a young boisterous, possibly dog aggressive Rottie, may mean something quite different to a police officer looking for a replacement dog, than to a young Mon who loves the breed. Besides, the temperament of the dog may also be determined by its behaviour in environments devoid of animals and people; for example, dog in an enclosed parking lot, dog left alone in a room.
The second case stresses the task suitability or use of the dog, rather than its innate characteristics. The external controllable factors that the humans select, take precedence rather than the innate (genetic or congenital) characteristics of the dog. But what indeed are the innate characteristics, how do these characteristics influence the use of the dog?
In the third case it is clear that trying to understand or describe the “personality” of the individual dog is a daunting (scientific) task. We do understand what the author is trying to say, but this understanding does not lend itself to clarity, practical application and objectivity.
Each agrees that there are different types of temperaments, but may disagree what these types are.
The concept of Temperament that I use and highly recommend to you is defined by Wayne Davis of the West Virginia K9 College as:
“The physical and mental characteristics of an individual dog, made evident through its reaction to stimuli in its environment.”
The physical and mental characteristics or peculiarities of an individual dog, made evident through its reaction to physical and situational stimuli, that is, any change in its environment.
This definition is not just a theoretical concept it is a practical working tool. Davis’ concept of temperament has certain characteristics that cannot be separated from it.
Characteristics of Temperament
 Temperament is primarily a function of the dog’s neurological makeup
 Temperament is 100% genetic; it is inherited, and fixed at the moment
of the dog’s fertilization/conception/birth
 Temperament in the dog cannot be eliminated nor transformed from
one type to another. It cannot change during the dog’s lifetime. It is the permanent mental/neurological characteristic of the individual dog. But there may be an overlap of different temperaments in the same dog. For example sharpness may be seen with over aggression or submissiveness with being temperamental.
 Environment, Socialization or Training can modify the expression of an individual dog’s temperament, but they cannot transform it nor
eliminate it. The dog will die with the temperament with which it was born.
In other words, the sum total of the dog’s neurological and physical matrix that finds expression as a result of environmental change (people, animal, physical context or situations), is its temperament. This view of temperament is objective in its definition, and clear in its physical expression, and for this reason will form the platform of our subsequent discussion.
Temperament is divided into two broad categories: Sound Temperament and Unsound Temperament.
Sound Temperament
The dog with a Sound Temperament is confident and self assertive. He is sure of himself and investigates what he is unsure of. He handles his environment with confidence and without fear. His approach to life and his environment is curious, assertive and investigative. If startled or frightened, he recovers quickly from his fright.

This wonderful ideal is not without its concerns. This dog makes an excellent pet and worker, when under control, trained or managed by a handler who is a secure pack leader. However if uncontrolled his self-assertiveness could lead to significant management problems. Nonetheless the mental balance of this kind of dog makes him a joy to own, and more persons need to learn to learn the skill to manage this exemplary canine. Having said this, it is clear that an older couple seeking a companion may be better served with a more submissive animal.
Unsound Temperament
The dog of Unsound Temperament does not display the above calm, confident, self assertive, non-fearful behaviour. There is a range of behaviours considered to be unsound, but the following list can be taken as a complete or almost complete list of the variations: Sharp, Shy, Sharp-Shy, Submissive, Temperamental, Hyperactive, and Overaggressive.
Sharp Temperament
A dog with a sharp temperament reacts (immediately) to individual environmental stimuli without thought. The dog does not consider consequences. It may jump sideways and run far away if startled by a slamming door, very reluctant to return, if at all. The sharp dog recovers, but slowly. The sharp dog may fearfully bark forever at the play of shadow across a doorway, or the light pattering of a small branch on the roof. If the stimulus is innocent and continuous, the sharp dog does not settle down and accept its innocence. It continues to react without thought. It will not investigate.
This dog may seem at first to be an excellent alarm dog, but extreme sharpness, coupled often with a lack of confidence, could make it a perpetual nuisance to neighbours and household members.
Shy Temperament
The shy dog is afraid of unfamiliar people, places and things. He is sensitive to noise and movement, and does not take initiative. The shyer the dog is, the greater will be the amount of fear displayed. This genetic/temperamental shyness cannot be cured.
Shyness may also be caused by improper environmental socialization or people experiences. This shyness may be reversed to some extent by proper handling and training, but avoiding such an outcome right from the start is preferred. Shyness must not be confused with submissiveness.

Sharp-Shy Temperament
The Sharp-Shy dog displays aggression based on fear, he is the classic “fear-biter.” Being sharp, he responds without thinking, and being shy, he is fearful. This combination produces a dog that bites at any unfamiliarity without thinking. Fear is a normal reaction in a normal dog to a perceived threat, but when the threat is over, the dog should recover quickly. The sharp-shy dog recovers slowly; its fear may even paralyse it, and it may bite if touched. It may be taught to adjust in a particular environment or situation, but when that situation changes, it will react again in fear and the behavioural cycle starts over again. The Sharp-shy dog can never be fixed.

Submissive Temperament
The submissive dog readily surrenders authority and control to it leader; in other words, he easily accepts human leadership. He tends to be meek and mild and non- threatening. He has no desire to be in charge, and readily does what is asked. This kind of dog makes an excellent pet and companion for most first time dog owners and the average family. The temperamentally submissive dog may be, but is not necessarily, a “wimp.”
Submissiveness is also a trait that may be produced environmentally, by abuse. This should not be confused with the genetic submissive temperament.
Temperamental
A dog with this temperament suffers from failure of its central nervous system. New environmental stimuli so overwhelm this dog that it may shake uncontrollably or roll over. The temperamental dog will empty its bladder and bowels seemingly unaware, in unfamiliar or stressful situations. This dog is not just afraid - it cannot cope - with the stress. Its nervous system is so overwhelmed that the dog loses control of its body and bodily functions.
The temperamental dog is not usually aggressive, but it is important to remember that there is a lot of fear in this dog, and the fearful dog may respond by biting.
This trait is one step down from submissive, and cannot be fixed.
What type of companionship can this dog provide? He may not be suitable for most homes but may be looked after by someone who feels generally compelled to offer and provide perpetual psychological coddling to this kind of dog. This dog is not recommended.
Hyperactive Temperament
The hyperactive dog is constantly moving, and generally moving fast. He constantly wants to move by running and jumping. If confined, he will pace incessantly and leap at walls, walk in circles or wag the tail non-stop. This hyperactivity is not normal but is the result of a metabolic malfunction (of the brain) that controls the body’s activity.
This dog could be thoroughly destructive if kept in a confined apartment or small space.
In some cases it may be difficult to separate temperamental hyperactivity from normal high energy in some dogs.
Overaggressive Temperament
The overaggressive dog reacts with more aggression than the situation suggests. This extreme behaviour is often directed toward the handler and is usually in protest for having been asked to do something the dog does not want to do. This dog does not turn off easily; he will come after you and hurt you. It does not accept human leadership.

An overaggressive dog should never be placed in a pet or companion situation. In fact if he is not in the hands of a professional handler, he should be put down.
Before ending this topic two other temperamental traits require our attention. They originate in the self-assertiveness of the dog (Sound Temperament) but may actually be looked upon as temperamental classes in their own right. These are the traits of Dominance and Independence in dogs.
Dominance
The dominant dog strives to achieve pack leadership. The more dominant he is, the less likely he is to accept human leadership and training. He is confrontational. Such a dog requires a skilled handler who can maintain pack leadership at all times.
Independence
This dog does not want guidance or affection from other dogs or humans. He does not encourage companionship; he cares nothing for praise or pleasing his handler. The independent dog keeps his own company, is self directed and self reliant; he is not affectionate.
Clearly, the independent dog would not make a good companion, and may function best as an out door “yard” dog.
A dog with significant dominance and independence traits together, is just a slide away from being over aggressive.
Even though critical periods, socialization and training may affect the temperament of a dog, they will never eliminate any of its effects.

11/11/2024

https://leerburg.com/broodbch.htm?srsltid=AfmBOorlHGGnIys3hLAh9zH71jK3mAY20Y0fMctijzM0qRD1g3YvoCcj

After breeding German Shepherds for over 27 years (and producing over 300 litters of working bloodline German Shepherd dogs), I am just now beginning to feel like I have a grasp. I sometimes worry that this puts me into the category of a slow learner, but when I look around there are not many in thi...

11/06/2024

11/04/2024

Bark.
we want the dog to initiate all the actions in prey through barking. The more power you get and the more barking you get, the more you can ask from the dog, and it gives you more to negotiate with.
From the Bark comes the Bite. In prey drive we are developing some critical understanding in the dog. In the biting stage we are teaching pulling. Hard grip, hard biting, hard pulling. A young dog cannot chew and pull hard at the same time. This has to be automatic in the dog, and this is cultivated with the handler. A handler must figure out how to do this both on the large tug and on the small tug. There is No excuse here, this is mandatory that the handler can do this.
This is a fundamental foundation exercise. It teaches hard bite, calm grip, strong fight. From the pull, we reward the dog into a hold or ...
Carry.
The dog must understand he can carry, no chewing, no taking tug to ground. He must willingly go with you.
Hold. This is HUGE. Hard, calm hold brings with it big points. If he cant hold calm on a dumbbell or sleeve his score will reflect this.
Out. Extremely complex. Getting a dog to out can be a challenge. Hold and Out work together. OUT = Drop and Bark.
In Play, you are always cultivating trial performance.

10/29/2024

What Is Kennel Blindness?
Choosing an adult sire/dam to start a breeding program? Keeping a puppy from a litter within your breeding program? Buying a puppy to start a breeding program / kennel? All are important decisions that ultimately will have an impact on the future of your breed of choice and the quality of dog you produce. The term “kennel blindness” refers to a phenomenon at which a breeder is incapable of judging or criticising his or her own breeding stock and incapable of realizing that a dog within their program should potentially not be bred.
“The breeder, to be successful, must look his dogs…not only in the face, but in the body, front and running gear. Even to themselves many breeders will not acknowledge their failure when they fall short of their objective…and in an effort to convince others of the perfection of their dogs, [they] convince…usually only themselves.” K. Onsott
Every breed has a standard. This standard is a guideline and has been put in place with the functionality and temperament of the dog in mind. There is no perfect dog. There is always room for improvement. In order to improve we must first recognize flaws or faults and realize the areas at which we can improve. We can then find a complimentary match for our sire/dam and try to correct those faults and in turn better the breed. Below are some characteristics that may constitute somebody as “kennel blind”.
Denial
If your dog is consistently not doing well in the show ring, you blame everything BUT the potential that your dog may be flawed. Bad judges, inexperienced judges, show politics/drama/favoritism etc. Those concerns may be legitimate and validated for some of the results however if this is happening on repeated occasions under different judges, different venues, different organizations etc – perhaps there is a reason for it. That reason is likely that your dog does not fit the standard in one way or another. Instead of placing blame, ask somebody experienced in the breed to evaluate your dog and offer insight. Make sure you accept the potential criticism with an open mind.
Jealousy
The inability to see and appreciate the better qualities in your competitors dogs. If you find yourself only pointing out negative qualities in your competition but never in your own stock, you may be “kennel blind”. Next time you see another breeder with your breed of choice, take a moment to appreciate the good qualities that you notice instead of focusing on the bad ones. This could even act as a learning experience to compare and decide where you can potentially improve. Don’t be jealous if you feel they have better quality dogs than you. Use that as a motivator to improve the quality of your program.
Perfection
Believing your dog is perfect and cannot be improved upon. Such a specimen doesn’t exist. Even what someone may consider the best in their kennel or the best dog of their breed (historically or currently), there will still be something that can improve. Whether that’s conformation, esthetics, movement, temperament etc. There is no such thing as a perfect dog so if that’s what you’re flaunting you need to sit down and have a serious conversation with yourself and with your breed standard.
Nowadays with social media in the hot seat, it seems everybody thinks they have the top dog, the best dog or the perfect dog of their breed. Don’t get me wrong, we all have the ability to consider our dogs “the best” or “perfect” but from an owner standpoint, not from a breeder standpoint. Hyping up your dogs using fire and gorilla emojis does not validate their quality and confirm they are a good specimen to breed. Refer to my “Purebred VS Wellbred” blog for more on that here
Those who may be more susceptible to being “Kennel Blind”:
Small Kennels
If you only have a small selection of dogs to use and you are not working with an outside mentor or breeder (you buy a male and a female in hopes to breed them). When you don’t have much to choose from you may not be able or choose not to acknowledge the issues in front of you.
Ego
You hype up your dogs or a certain dog so much that when or if you notice an issue your ego gets in the way and you can’t admit it. You may get worried about your reputation or what other people think when you announce that said dog will not be bred or said dog is being removed from your program. In actuality this should make you look more favorable as a breeder who is genuinely paying attention and caring about the future and preservation of the breed.
Lack Of Knowledge
Perhaps you purchased a breed without researching or knowing much about it. Perhaps you purchased a sub-par puppy/dog from a non-reputable breeder. Perhaps you purchased a puppy/dog whose temperament is not favorable for the breed. If you don’t know any better then you more than likely will not see the problems in front of you. That may make you “kennel blind” but that can be corrected if you educate yourself ahead of time. Do the research and the work to find quality dogs before you start your journey into becoming a breeder and starting a kennel.
Income
If you are relying on your litters as primary income or you potentially don’t have additional income / are in financial distress, that may affect your objectivity. You may either realize that your dog is not of breeding quality but not have the financial ability to replace it, or you don’t realize at all because all you see are dollar signs. This circles back to your goal as a breeder and the purpose behind why you’re breeding. If you open your eyes to your breed history and breed standard, you’re less likely to run into kennel blindness.
How about those that are * not * kennel blind? These are some characteristics of breeders who do not possess this quality:
· Rarely satisfied with their dogs. Always nit picking, criticizing their own dogs flaws and faults more than others would. Well aware of where they can improve and striving to do so.
· Extremely picky when choosing new stock/ new puppies to add to their program.
· Happy to appreciate and acknowledge a nice specimen within their breed, regardless of who owns it.
· Ready and willing to remove a dog from their program and possibly even restarting from the ground up when realizing the specimen(s) they have may not be the best quality or have questions or doubts about where they purchased the dog from.
So how can we correct kennel blindness if we come to terms with this being our reality?
· Try to remember to keep the focus on the whole dog. Many breeders like to focus on one particular trait that they may become “blind” to other faults that may be arising. For example if you are a stickler for bone but don’t realize that your angulation and topline are going out of whack. We can absolutely breed and look for dogs that excel in our ideal qualities but we can’t lose sight of the whole package. Be careful not to deviate too far out of your standard or you may compromise structure and functionality.
· Ask for help. If you can find a breeder (one who is not kennel blind themselves and who is familiar with the breed standard) and have them do an honest evaluation of your dogs strengths and weaknesses. Accept the critique and keep an open mind. Don’t get defensive. Use it as education and value their opinion. You can ask several breeders and gather the collective critique.
· Be honest with yourself
Kelly McIntosh
Feb 18, 2021