Windover Equestrian

09/04/2025

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Whether you’re in an intense jumping lesson with your trainer or casually hacking on your own, we teach our horse every time we sit on it. What’s important is that we use this super power for good! It’s just as easy to train your horse bad habits as it is good ones, and these often happen when we flat on our own.

Proper flatwork is key to success in any discipline, and it all starts with the basics. That’s why we asked trainer, Margaret Clayton, for her insight. A skilled trainer for top riders on the A circuit, she knows how to develop the winning mindset—for every ride.

Here are Margaret’s top 4 tenets for every ride.

The Goal is To Train Horses to Respond to Lighter Aids, Not Stronger Aids

Have you ridden a horse that’s dead in the mouth or takes an act of god to get to trot? It’s not fun. While it’s important to be fit enough to achieve your goals, you shouldn’t have to go to the gym until you have the strength of a bodybuilder just to halt or get your horse in front of your leg. If your horse isn’t listening, focus on your technique, not your strength. Learn to use lighter aids, and teach your horse to respond to them correctly.

Horses learn from the release of pressure

Fundamentally, our aids work by the application and release of pressure on different parts of the horse’s body. It’s important that riders learn to release this pressure as soon as the horse starts to respond to it. The release is the horse’s reward. Look for opportunities to release pressure faster and more often throughout your ride. As you increase your awareness of this process, you will improve the communication between you and your horse

Reward More Than You Correct

Whether it’s an animal or a human, positive reinforcement has been scientifically proven to be the most effective teaching method. Horses are more sensitive than we often give them credit for, and they typically want to do a good job. Each time your horse gives a bit more, acknowledge and praise their try. Repeat the process until you’re where you want to be. Results don’t happen overnight. Even if it’s not your best ride, don’t let yourself get hung up on what’s going wrong. Handing out more praise than discipline will let your horse know when she’s performing correctly, and help build a better lasting relationship with your partner.

Focus on the process, not just the end result

Want to lengthen your trot? Leg yield? Counter canter all the way around the ring? Those aren’t things that you’re going to get right the first time you ask. Instead, make it about the journey. Are you riding better? Is your horse performing better? Are you getting closer to your goals? If the answer is yes, you’re on the right track. Keep up the good work!

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08/27/2025

Winter Boarding Available 🐎

We have 2 openings for Winter Board 💥🐎

Highlights of Winter Boarding

* Excellent Feeding Program
* Dust free and well lite Indoor Arena
* Large Paddocks
* Heated Barn with lockers and large tack
stalls
*knowledgeable, experienced Staff

Contact us with any questions ☎️

08/18/2025

Consider ⬇️

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Stop Disengaging Your Horse’s Hind End on the Lunge Line

I’m going to step on a few toes here, but I’d rather bruise egos than backs — horse’s backs, that is. One of the most common things I see being taught at clinics, in videos, and even in some lesson barns is “disengaging the hind end” on the lunge line as a primary tool for control. The handler steps toward the horse’s hip, the horse swings their hindquarters away, and people smile because, “Look! They’re yielding their hindquarters!”

It might look neat, but here’s the hard truth: repeatedly disengaging a horse’s hind end on the lunge line is one of the fastest ways to destroy the very balance and movement you’re going to need for everything you’ll ever ask a horse to do under saddle.

What Happens Biomechanically

When you drive that hind end out and away, the horse has to:

Shorten and stiffen their topline — the back inverts, the head pops up, and the neck often stiffens.

Lose engagement — they stop stepping up under themselves with their hind legs, which is the motor that powers everything from a collected jog to a downward transition.

Fall onto the forehand — without that hind end carrying weight, all the motion and balance shifts to the front, making the shoulders and front legs work harder and creating sloppy, heavy movement.

The horse might “turn and face you,” but now you’ve trained them to lead with the front end and trail their engine behind them. That is the opposite of how a balanced horse should move.

Why Balance Matters

Every discipline — from reining to ranch work, from dressage to trail riding — depends on a horse being able to carry weight in the hindquarters, lift the back, and move with forward drive.

A balanced horse:

Steps under with the hind legs to support the weight of the body.

Uses the hindquarters as the main source of propulsion.

Lifts the base of the neck and the back, creating a soft, round outline.

Stays light in the front end, making direction changes smoother and safer.

When you take that away by constantly disengaging, you’re building a habit that will show up later when you try to stop, turn, or collect. The horse will drop the back, hollow out, and lean on the front legs — exactly when you need them to sit down and use their hind end.

The Problem with “Safety First” Misuse

A lot of clinicians teach disengaging as a safety mechanism — “If you control the hips, you control the horse.” There’s truth in that, and it can be a useful emergency tool in certain situations, especially on a green or reactive horse. But just because it’s good in an emergency doesn’t mean it should be your main training approach.

Think of it like pulling the parking brake in your car. It’s great if your main brakes fail, but you wouldn’t drive around all day with the parking brake half on — unless you wanted to ruin your car’s performance.

A Better Approach

Instead of driving the hindquarters away, we should be teaching the horse to:

Track forward with impulsion — every step should have purpose and energy, with the hind legs stepping under.

Bend through the body — a slight inside bend in the neck and body encourages softness and correct balance.

Engage the topline — a relaxed neck and lifted back are signs the horse is moving correctly and in self-carriage.

Shift weight back — whether in a circle, straight line, or stop, the horse should be able to carry more weight behind without you having to force it.

This way, when you transition from groundwork to riding, the horse already understands how to use their body in a way that will make everything easier — from stopping softly to spinning cleanly to navigating a rocky trail.

How to Lunge Without Wrecking Balance

If you want to lunge in a way that builds, not breaks, your horse’s movement:

Keep the horse moving forward first. If you need to redirect, do it with a change of bend, not by throwing the hind end out.

Ask for engagement — think “hind legs under, front legs light.”

Use transitions on the circle — walk/trot, trot/lope, and downward transitions — to teach the horse to rebalance and carry themselves.

Reward moments when they lower the neck, lift the back, and move fluidly.

Final Thought

Every single ride you’ll ever take depends on the strength and balance of your horse’s hindquarters. If you make a habit of disengaging them, you’re literally training your horse out of the balance you’ll later wish they had.

Yes, disengaging has its place as a safety or control maneuver in specific situations. But as a go-to groundwork exercise? It’s counterproductive. Instead, teach your horse to carry themselves correctly from the ground up — you’ll be building the foundation for everything you’ll ever want to do together.

Remember: a horse moves best when the engine is pushing from behind, not when you’ve shut the engine off and let the steering wheel do all the work.