Shake A Paw Dog Training

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Shake A Paw Dog Training

Shake A Paw Dog Training Agility Facility, Dog Training, Behavior Modification and Members Dog Park. Group classes and 1on1 programs.
📍 3327 Wallace Road, South Mountain, Ontario

02/14/2025

🐾 Food Guarding in Dogs – Understanding & Addressing It 🐾

Resource guarding is a normal behavior, especially in adolescent dogs. But just because it's common doesn’t mean it should be ignored. The good news? If you address it early and correctly, it doesn’t mean your dog will grow up to be aggressive.

🔑 Understanding the Root Cause

Resource guarding is fear-based—your dog is afraid you’ll take something valuable away. Challenging, scolding, or trying to forcefully take the item usually makes that fear worse. Instead, we want to change their mindset and create a positive association with people approaching their food.

It's a good idea to practice the exercise below before you ever see issues, but just in case, here are some signs to watch for:

👀 Signs of Guarding:
🐕 Eating faster when approached
🐕 Hovering over food
🐕 Watching you out of the corner of their eye
🐕 Freezing or tensing up

🎯 The Anti-Guarding Game

Before we start, an important note: This isn’t about constantly bothering your dog while they eat. The goal is to build trust so that, over time, your dog naturally pauses and looks at you with a happy, relaxed expression. Aim to practice this once per meal or even just once a day—not multiple times per feeding.

🏆 Steps to Success:

✅ Choose high-value treats with some weight for easy tossing—cut-up meatballs or breakfast sausage work well. The treats must be more valuable than what’s in their bowl. (For raw-fed dogs, save some meat and add salmon oil to boost flavor!)
✅ Feed your dog away from other dogs in a quiet area.
✅ As they eat, walk toward them and toss a treat near their bowl—try to land it close or even lightly bounce it off them so they notice.
✅ Repeat until you see a change—your dog should pause, look up at you expectantly, and wait for their bonus treat instead of guarding their food.

❗ Already Seeing Serious Guarding? Reach Out!
If your dog is already growling, stiffening, or snapping when approached during meals, it’s important to handle this correctly. Please reach out to me or a qualified professional for guidance. The right approach now can prevent this from escalating into a more serious issue.

🔄 Consistency is Key
With patience and repetition, food guarding can be managed and even eliminated.

Remember—this is about building trust, not creating conflict.

💬 Have you ever dealt with food guarding in your dog? What worked for you? Let’s talk in the comments! ⬇️🐶

Photo by Kacper Chrzanowski on Unsplash

02/12/2025

Unleash the Fun with Agility Jumps!

Looking to add excitement, exercise, and engagement to your dog’s routine? Our high-quality agility jumps are perfect for dogs of all sizes and skill levels—whether you’re training for competition or just having fun in the backyard!

✅ Adjustable heights for all levels
✅ Durable - all pressure treated wood
✅ Easy setup for home or training spaces

Agility isn’t just about sp*ed—it builds confidence, strengthens your bond, and gives your dog a fun way to burn off energy! Ready to jump in? Message us to order yours today!

$80 + HST

Comment below if you would like one

02/11/2025

🐾 How Being a Dog Trainer Made Me a Better Human 🐾

Being a good dog trainer means truly seeing the dog in front of you—not through the lens of frustration or expectation, but by understanding what they’re actually communicating.

It requires stepping back, removing emotion, and responding to what the dog needs, not just what we want. It’s about learning to read their body language, understanding their history, genetics, and environment, and recognizing that behaviour isn’t random—it’s a reflection of their experiences and associations.

Instead of reacting to surface-level frustrations, we learn to ask:

👉 What is the dog trying to tell me?

By meeting their needs first—whether that’s safety, clarity, engagement, or consistency—we create a foundation of trust. Training becomes a conversation, not a battle of wills.

But here’s the thing—dogs don’t exist in isolation. They come attached to people.

And I quickly realized that the better I could communicate with owners, the better they could meet their dog’s needs.

So I started applying the same principles to people—removing assumptions, listening beyond their words, and truly understanding what they needed to succeed.

Over time, this way of seeing the world became second nature:
🔹 I reacted less and started understanding more.
🔹 I assumed less and started observing more.

It didn’t just make me a better trainer—it changed how I connect with people, how I communicate, and how I move through the world.

Dog training didn’t just teach me how to work with dogs—it taught me how to be a better human. ❤️🐶

💬 Have dogs changed the way you see the world? I’d love to hear your thoughts! ⬇️

Photo by Eric Ward on Unsplash

02/10/2025

🐾 The #1 Skill Every Dog Needs: A Reliable Recall 🐾

Having a dog that sits when you say sit is great—but teaching sit before come can actually work against you.

Most people bring their puppy home and teach them to sit right away. It’s adorable, it’s an easy trick to show off, and it feels like progress. But what’s even more important? Teaching your dog to come when called.

Even with something as simple as a name game, many owners say their dog’s name and then move toward the dog to reward them—accidentally reinforcing the idea that not coming is what gets the treat.

Now, imagine this:

📏 Your dog is 15 feet away.
📢 You call them—and they sit.
🤨 You repeat the cue, a little more firmly.
😟 Now your tone sounds a little scary, and your dog, remembering that sitting has earned them rewards in the past, stays put.

Just like that, your recall is falling apart before it ever really got started.

So what’s the fix?

The very first thing I teach a puppy is to move toward me:
✅ I take a step back.
✅ I reward low at my ankles to prevent jumping.
✅ The step back creates motion, building a natural drive toward me.

This simple habit lays the foundation for a strong recall—something every dog owner needs and wants.

💬 What’s your biggest recall challenge with your dog? Drop it in the comments! ⬇️🐶🚀

02/10/2025

🐶 Bringing a New Puppy Home – My First 24 Hours 🏡✨

I may be getting a puppy soon (still in the works!), so I’m diving into my puppy brain and mapping out a plan. I thought I’d share what my first 24 hours with a new puppy looks like—because those early moments set the foundation for everything!

(And if you’re bringing home an adult dog, most of this still applies, minus the house training.)

🚗 Arrival & First Walk
When we get home, the first thing we do is wander. No recalls, no expectations—just a chance for the puppy to decompress from the car ride and, more importantly, go to the bathroom.

I always try to schedule pick-up earlier in the day so:
✔️ We have unlimited time to wander (some puppies take forever to go!)
✔️ The puppy has time to settle into their new world before bedtime

Depending on the location, the puppy is either off-leash or dragging a long line. If they want to interact, we do. If not, we just wander. I may see if they’ll take food, but that can wait until the next outing.

🏡 First Time in the House
Next, it’s time to introduce the crate or pen. Most puppies are used to some form of containment at the breeder, so the pen itself isn’t usually the issue—it’s being alone that’s tough.

To make the transition easier:
🐾 I stay close to the pen for the first few days, slowly building their confidence. At first sitting right next to the pen and gradually starting to move around the room and eventually leave the room. This will usually take a day or two.
🐾 Their pen has a comfy bed, water bowl, toys, and plenty of chew items that I rotate.

🚽 House Training Begins
Potty training starts immediately—out every hour. This is also a great time to:
✔️ Introduce treats and hand-feeding (some puppies need time to learn this!)
✔️ Start the very first training exercise: rewarding them for following me. This is the foundation of Name Game and the start of a solid recall!

I usually introduce toys and tug on Day 2.

🛏️ The Night Routine
Nighttime can be challenging, so I set up the crate where the puppy can see me in bed. I prefer a small crate on top of a larger crate (or secured on a chair) to keep them within arm’s reach.

If the puppy fusses, I place my fingers inside the crate for comfort. If they wake up? Straight outside, quick p*e, and right back in—no talking, no cuddling. I don’t want nighttime wake-ups to become a habit!

🌅 Morning Routine
At first light (or when they fuss), we’re right outside for a potty break. If it’s daylight, we take a short off-leash or long-line walk. Then:
🐾 Back in the crate while I get ready
🐾 A second short walk with some training
🐾 Into the X-pen with a food puzzle so I can make coffee ☕

The rest of the day follows a simple cycle: out for potty, a little training, a short walk, back in the pen.

✨ This is just the beginning! ✨ Want to set your puppy up for success?

Message us for info on our Comprehensive Puppy Package

I’ll help make puppyhood fun instead of a “What was I thinking?!” situation.

Photo by mtsjrdl on Unsplash

02/05/2025

🐾 Training Success = Little Moments Adding Up 🐾

This post hits home today—I just registered Wicca for her first agility trial! 🎉 I honestly can’t believe we got here.

For the first few years of her life, something just felt off. I’m still not 100% sure what finally clicked, but I’d guess it was a combination of things—changing her diet, getting regular chiro and physio when she needed it, and simply giving her the time and support she needed.

Since she wasn’t feeling great, she rarely wanted to train, and even when she did, it was hard for her. And honestly? I get it. Nobody wants to give it their all when they feel like crap. At the same time, I had my own health stuff going on, and there were plenty of days I didn’t feel like training either. So, progress was glacially slow.

But finally, here we are. After five years of not competing, we’re ready to step into the ring.

Celebrating the little successes is what made this possible.
So often, we focus on the big wins in dog training—perfect recalls, flawless loose leash walking, or a rock-solid stay. But real progress? It happens in the little moments.
✨ Your dog pausing before rushing through the door.
✨ Choosing to check in with you instead of chasing a distraction.
✨ Settling down faster than they did last week.

These moments might seem small, but they add up to the well-behaved, reliable dog you’re working toward. Training isn’t about perfection—it’s about progress.

Keep celebrating those little wins!

💬 Tell me—what’s a small training victory you had with your dog this week? Drop it in the comments! ⬇️🐶🎉

Photo credit: Wild Coyote Photography

02/01/2025

What to Do When Your Dog Gets Overwhelmed on a Walk

One of my private clients asked a great question that I think many of you can relate to:
"We walked by a house, and a little dog came outside barking. My dog got really scared and anxious. The rest of the walk, he was excited, pulling, sniffing everything. What strategy should I use to diffuse this situation so it doesn’t carry on through the rest of the walk?"

This is such a common scenario. Sometimes, it’s triggered by something obvious—like a barking dog—or it might feel like your dog reacts for no clear reason.
When this happens, your dog’s reaction could look like pulling, sniffing, or even jumping and biting at you.

The big question is: What can you do in the moment to help?

Here’s the reality:

You can’t always control your environment on a walk. For some dogs, I recommend temporarily pausing walks and focusing on controlled exposure in more manageable settings.

But if you’re already out and something unexpected happens, it’s a great opportunity to use ODR (Observe Don’t React).

💡 Pro Tip: Practice ODR regularly on calm walks so that when something does happen, you and your dog naturally fall into a behavior chain that helps you both stay grounded.

Here’s how ODR works:

1️⃣ Stop Walking.
If your dog is overwhelmed, pause and stand still. Give them a moment to decompress and observe. Avoid asking for anything at first—patience 🙂 here is vital.

2️⃣ Wait for Connection.
Pay attention to your dog. Are they still fixated on the environment, or do they check in with you? Once they willingly connect with you, that’s your signal they’re ready to engage.

3️⃣ Work Through Some Cues.
Start with simple cues like the Name Game or Collar Grab Game. Once your dog is responsive, progress to more challenging behaviours like sit, heel, or stay.
This approach helps shift your dog’s mindset from reactive to thoughtful. Once they’re calm and focused, you can continue your walk with a more relaxed, cooperative companion.

Let me know how this works for you! When you stop walking, does your dog check in right away, or do they stay locked on their surroundings? Share your experiences below! 🐾

Looking for more help with walking on leash? We have an intensive loose leash walking course starting Tue Feb 4 @ 7:15pm. Message us to register or for more info.

01/31/2025

🐾 Growing into Their Paws 🐾

A dog's body changes so much in their first year! Many dogs—especially those with long legs—take time to figure out how to coordinate all their body parts.

Last night in our Agility Foundations class, we introduced the A-frame, and Juniper was absolutely adorable figuring it out. I had to share! 🥰🐕

In my opinion, the best way to teach your dog body awareness—important in both life and agility to prevent injuries—is a run in the bush. When dogs run off-trail, they jump, turn, and twist to keep moving at full sp*ed. Eventually, they either have to slow down or learn how to navigate their environment efficiently to maintain their sp*ed.

If this looks like something your dog would enjoy, check out our upcoming classes:

📅 Sun, Feb 2 @ 9:00 AM
📅 Thu, Feb 20 @ 6:00 PM
📅 Sun, Mar 30 @ 10:15 AM

Message us to register or for more info!

01/29/2025

🐾 Giving Dogs the Benefit of the Doubt in Training 🐾

Early in my dog training journey, I watched a video that completely changed my perspective.

The trainers were discussing their dog struggling with weave pole entries in agility. This was a well-trained dog that normally nailed their weave entries, so missing them was unusual. Instead of assuming the dog was being stubborn or "doing it wrong," they asked: Why? What’s getting in the way?

They used an app that simulated how dogs see, factoring in their color perception. It turned out that lighting, shadows, and background distractions were making it difficult for the dog to spot the correct entry. The takeaway wasn’t just about weave poles—it was about giving the dog the benefit of the doubt and problem-solving with them rather than assuming they were being defiant.

For those who aren’t agility people: In agility, dogs are expected to enter the weave poles with their left shoulder passing the first pole. A dog that understands this should consistently find the entry, so when they suddenly can’t, there’s often a reason. In this case, the issue wasn’t the dog’s training—it was a visual challenge.

That moment was a huge breakthrough for me. I realized how unfair my training had been at times—not because I wanted to be unfair, but because I wasn’t always seeing things from my dog’s perspective. I had been assuming my dog was being "badly behaved" instead of figuring out why they were struggling.

Now, whenever I train—whether it’s my own dogs or my clients’ dogs—I always stop and ask myself: Am I giving the dog the benefit of the doubt?

🐾 A Common Example: Teaching "Sit" to an Adolescent Dog

Adolescent dogs often struggle with the sit cue. I believe it’s because their bodies are changing so rapidly that they don’t always have the awareness or coordination to place their bum on the ground easily. If you watch closely, many will shift a back foot—I think they genuinely believe they’ve sat when they do this.

From the dog’s perspective:

🐶 They hear their owner’s cue.
🐶 They move their foot and think they sat.
🐶 But the owner keeps repeating the cue, leaning in (which adds social pressure and makes the dog uncomfortable).
🐶 The dog gets confused, uncomfortable, and eventually disengages.

Instead of assuming the dog is ignoring the cue, I take a different approach:

✅ I take a step back—which I’ve trained my dogs to follow.
✅ The dog naturally moves forward, making sit easier from motion rather than from a standstill.
✅ As they move toward me, I cue sit—and suddenly, they get it right.
✅ The dog gets rewarded, I’m happy, and the dog is happy—a win-win.

This simple shift turns a frustrating moment into a success, reinforcing the idea that training should be about clarity, not pressure.

✨ When we assume our dogs are making mistakes on purpose, we create frustration—for us and for them. But when we take a step back (literally and figuratively), we open the door to clearer communication and better teamwork. ✨

My goal for all my students: Give your dogs the benefit of the doubt. Take a moment to figure out why they aren’t doing what’s expected. In the best scenario, adjust something—set them up for success, relieve pressure, or change your approach—so they have another opportunity to get it right.

Have you ever had a training moment where stepping back—physically or mentally—helped your dog succeed?

Share in the comments! ⬇️🐶💬

Photo credit Wild Coyote Photography

01/26/2025

🐾 Tackling Leash Balking in Puppies 🐾

Teaching a puppy to walk on a leash doesn’t happen overnight—it’s a process that starts with foundational games to help them understand what’s expected. One of our favorite games introduces the idea that pressure on the leash means “come into my space.”

The opposite of this, where the puppy resists or pulls against the leash, is called balking.

Many puppies naturally experience something called opposition reflex when they feel leash pressure for the first time—it’s completely normal! But if it’s not addressed, it can quickly lead to habits you’ll want to avoid.

What We Teach Instead:

Leash pressure = move toward me! This sets the groundwork for great leash manners and prevents pulling in the future.

Before You Start:
Play some Name Game with your puppy. This builds excitement about coming to you and makes learning more fun!

How to Start the Game:

🐾 Start in a safe, comfortable environment where your puppy feels secure.
🐾 Apply gentle pressure to the leash.
🐾 Be patient—resistance at first is normal! Keep the pressure steady.
🐾 The moment your puppy relaxes or moves toward you, reward them with lots of praise and a treat.

With just a few repetitions, your puppy will start associating leash pressure with coming toward you. In the video, you’ll see how quickly Peak picked up on the game!

Starting early with these simple lessons can transform walks into a joyful experience for both you and your pup. 🐶✨

Does your puppy balk on the leash? What’s worked for you? Share your tips (and photos!) in the comments! 🐾

If walking your dog has become a challenge message us for more info on our new 4 week intensive Loose Leash Walking course starting Tue Feb 4 @ 7:15pm.

01/25/2025

Can Your Dog Think Around Distractions?

One of the most important aspects of training is being aware of your dog’s emotional state. It’s not always easy to see when something’s wrong—some dogs may seem calm but are actually worried, anxious, or overly excited. When your dog is in this state, their ability to listen and perform cues can break down.

Years ago, I had a Chesapeake Bay Retriever who was perfect on leash in our backyard—calm, focused, and responsive. But out in public? She pulled like a truck, even though she looked the same. Her emotional state was different, and it impacted her ability to engage with me.
This inspired me to create a game I call ODR (Observe, Don’t React) to help dogs learn to work with distractions, even in challenging environments.

How ODR Works:
1. Observe Calmly
First step is teaching your dog to be able to watch calmly. That means; quiet, 4 paws on the floor, loose leash.
2. Wait for Voluntary Attention
Once your dog can watch calmly, you stop rewarding this. It becomes and expected behaviour and allows you to move to the next stage. Since your dog is watching calmly on a loose leash they will eventually check and see if you are still there, looking back at you.
3. Perform “Stupid Pet Tricks”
Once your dog looks back at you, you ask for a stupid pet trick. Start with a simple cue like a sit or a recall. Gradually work up to more complex behaviors, such as heeling. These exercises test how well your dog is able to think.
Why the “stupid pet tricks”? Because for a dog to perform even a simple behavior, they need to use their brain. If they can think and act, it means they’ve let go of the distraction.

Why ODR Matters:

I hear it all the time:

“Once my dog sees another dog, they can’t hear me or listen, no matter what I do.”

That’s because their emotional state has taken over, making it impossible for their brain to focus. ODR teaches your dog how to keep their thinking brain engaged—and how to get it back if they start to lose it.

The more you practice, the more your dog will learn that distractions aren’t worth their energy. Instead of just ignoring the distraction, they stop caring about it altogether.

With ODR, you’re not just teaching your dog to behave—you’re helping them build emotional resilience and focus, even in the most distracting situations.

Are you ready to try ODR with your dog?

Photo by weston m on Unsplash

01/23/2025

🐾 Management vs. Training: What’s the Difference? 🐾

When it comes to changing or dealing with dog behaviour, there’s a key choice to make: Do you manage the situation or train your dog to respond differently?

Here’s the thing—dogs aren’t “bad.” The behaviours we find frustrating, like pulling on a leash or crowding the door, are natural for them. It’s up to us to decide how we want to handle those behaviours.

What’s the Difference?

Management: Prevents the unwanted behaviour from happening but doesn’t teach the dog anything new.

Training: Teaches an alternative behaviour that replaces the unwanted one.
Both have their place in dog training, but they accomplish different goals.

Example 1: Leash Pulling

When I raise a puppy, I start training them early to wear a head halter. Why? Because most adolescent dogs simply don’t have the brainpower to handle all of life’s situations without pulling.

Here’s where management comes in:

When the puppy starts pulling, I use the head halter to prevent them from practicing the pulling behaviour.

At the same time, I’m actively training—teaching the dog that pressure on the leash means to come back to me and building self-control (ODR).

The result? By the time they’re 1–2 years old, most of my dogs can walk calmly on a leash without needing the head halter. But if they ever regress, I bring the head halter back as a reminder.

For dogs with a strong reinforcement history for pulling (they’ve been rewarded by getting where they want to go), management alone won’t fix the problem. These dogs will probably have to wear a head halter the rest of their lives.

Example 2: Door Manners

When guests come into my home, my dogs have mixed door manners:
🐕 Wicca jumps. (Long story!)
🐕 Peak doesn’t jump but gets excited and crowds guests.

With most visitors, this is fine. But for people like my in-laws or a repair person coming into my house, I use management:

Baby gates, crates, or putting the dogs outside.

Management allows me to handle the situation without stressing my guests or my dogs. But I know that management alone won’t change their door behavior but it does give me what I want, which is people coming into my house and me not being annoyed at my dogs for behaving in a way I don’t want.

When to Use Management vs. Training

Management is perfect for situations where:

🐕 You need an immediate solution.
🐕 The behavior isn’t critical to change long-term.
🐕 The behaviour changes depending on the situation. E.g. one behaviour for some company is fine, but for a different company it is not

Training is best for situations where:
🐕 You want to change behaviour not manage behaviour for the rest of the dog’s life. E.g. I have clients regularly coming into my home. Then I would train my dogs to have more polite door manners that would be acceptable to me.
🐕 You want to create a lasting change.

Both tools are valuable, and using them together can often be the most effective strategy. What’s one behaviour you’ve managed or trained in your dog?

Let me know in the comments! 🐶✨

Address

3327 Wallace Road
Kemptville, ON
K0E1W0

Telephone

+16139893647

Website

http://www.dogtraining.ca/

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Videos

🐾 The #1 Skill Every Dog Needs: A Reliable Recall 🐾 Having a dog that sits when you say sit is great—but teaching sit before come can actually work against you. Most people bring their puppy home and teach them to sit right away. It’s adorable, it’s an easy trick to show off, and it feels like progress. But what’s even more important? Teaching your dog to come when called. Even with something as simple as a name game, many owners say their dog’s name and then move toward the dog to reward them—accidentally reinforcing the idea that not coming is what gets the treat. Now, imagine this: 📏 Your dog is 15 feet away. 📢 You call them—and they sit. 🤨 You repeat the cue, a little more firmly. 😟 Now your tone sounds a little scary, and your dog, remembering that sitting has earned them rewards in the past, stays put. Just like that, your recall is falling apart before it ever really got started. So what’s the fix? The very first thing I teach a puppy is to move toward me: ✅ I take a step back. ✅ I reward low at my ankles to prevent jumping. ✅ The step back creates motion, building a natural drive toward me. This simple habit lays the foundation for a strong recall—something every dog owner needs and wants. 💬 What’s your biggest recall challenge with your dog? Drop it in the comments! ⬇️🐶🚀

Walking down Main Street

What to Do When Your Dog Gets Overwhelmed on a Walk One of my private clients asked a great question that I think many of you can relate to: "We walked by a house, and a little dog came outside barking. My dog got really scared and anxious. The rest of the walk, he was excited, pulling, sniffing everything. What strategy should I use to diffuse this situation so it doesn’t carry on through the rest of the walk?" This is such a common scenario. Sometimes, it’s triggered by something obvious—like a barking dog—or it might feel like your dog reacts for no clear reason. When this happens, your dog’s reaction could look like pulling, sniffing, or even jumping and biting at you. The big question is: What can you do in the moment to help? Here’s the reality: You can’t always control your environment on a walk. For some dogs, I recommend temporarily pausing walks and focusing on controlled exposure in more manageable settings. But if you’re already out and something unexpected happens, it’s a great opportunity to use ODR (Observe Don’t React). 💡 Pro Tip: Practice ODR regularly on calm walks so that when something does happen, you and your dog naturally fall into a behavior chain that helps you both stay grounded. Here’s how ODR works: 1️⃣ Stop Walking. If your dog is overwhelmed, pause and stand still. Give them a moment to decompress and observe. Avoid asking for anything at first—patience 🙂 here is vital. 2️⃣ Wait for Connection. Pay attention to your dog. Are they still fixated on the environment, or do they check in with you? Once they willingly connect with you, that’s your signal they’re ready to engage. 3️⃣ Work Through Some Cues. Start with simple cues like the Name Game or Collar Grab Game. Once your dog is responsive, progress to more challenging behaviours like sit, heel, or stay. This approach helps shift your dog’s mindset from reactive to thoughtful. Once they’re calm and focused, you can continue y

🐾 Growing into Their Paws 🐾 A dog's body changes so much in their first year! Many dogs—especially those with long legs—take time to figure out how to coordinate all their body parts. Last night in our Agility Foundations class, we introduced the A-frame, and Juniper was absolutely adorable figuring it out. I had to share! 🥰🐕 In my opinion, the best way to teach your dog body awareness—important in both life and agility to prevent injuries—is a run in the bush. When dogs run off-trail, they jump, turn, and twist to keep moving at full speed. Eventually, they either have to slow down or learn how to navigate their environment efficiently to maintain their speed. If this looks like something your dog would enjoy, check out our upcoming classes: 📅 Sun, Feb 2 @ 9:00 AM 📅 Thu, Feb 20 @ 6:00 PM 📅 Sun, Mar 30 @ 10:15 AM Message us to register or for more info!

🐾 Tackling Leash Balking in Puppies 🐾 Teaching a puppy to walk on a leash doesn’t happen overnight—it’s a process that starts with foundational games to help them understand what’s expected. One of our favorite games introduces the idea that pressure on the leash means “come into my space.” The opposite of this, where the puppy resists or pulls against the leash, is called balking. Many puppies naturally experience something called opposition reflex when they feel leash pressure for the first time—it’s completely normal! But if it’s not addressed, it can quickly lead to habits you’ll want to avoid. What We Teach Instead: Leash pressure = move toward me! This sets the groundwork for great leash manners and prevents pulling in the future. Before You Start: Play some Name Game with your puppy. This builds excitement about coming to you and makes learning more fun! How to Start the Game: 🐾 Start in a safe, comfortable environment where your puppy feels secure. 🐾 Apply gentle pressure to the leash. 🐾 Be patient—resistance at first is normal! Keep the pressure steady. 🐾 The moment your puppy relaxes or moves toward you, reward them with lots of praise and a treat. With just a few repetitions, your puppy will start associating leash pressure with coming toward you. In the video, you’ll see how quickly Peak picked up on the game! Starting early with these simple lessons can transform walks into a joyful experience for both you and your pup. 🐶✨ Does your puppy balk on the leash? What’s worked for you? Share your tips (and photos!) in the comments! 🐾 If walking your dog has become a challenge message us for more info on our new 4 week intensive Loose Leash Walking course starting Tue Feb 4 @ 7:15pm.

The Crate Training Debate: Why I’m All In 🐾 There’s a lot of debate about whether or not to crate train a puppy. I’ll be honest—I can’t imagine not crate training! Here’s why: 🔹 Teaches Self-Control: Crate training helps your puppy learn they can’t always have everything they see—a critical skill for coming when called and walking nicely on leash. 🔹 Gives You a Break: Let’s face it, puppies are adorable but exhausting. The first two weeks, it might feel manageable to follow them around constantly, but that level of supervision gets old fast. Crate training allows you to reclaim a bit of your life—whether it’s reading a book, watching TV, or just scrolling Facebook. How I Crate Train My Puppies: 1️⃣ Start with Rewards: Every time Wicca goes into the crate or X-pen, she gets rewarded. I have a handful of kibble ready, and as I set her down in the crate, I release the kibble in front of her. 2️⃣ Next Step: After a few days, I notice she’s starting to look for the kibble instead of turning back out of the crate. That’s when I up the challenge: I place her just outside the crate door, giving her the choice to go in on her own. When she makes the right choice, she’s rewarded with a handful of kibble. 3️⃣ Mistakes Happen: In this video, you’ll see Wicca go the wrong way on her second attempt. No big deal—I simply pick her up and reset, pointing her toward the crate. When she makes the right choice, she’s rewarded! If she had kept making the wrong choice, I would have gone back a step and placed her directly in the crate again. Why This Works: Crate training gives your puppy opportunities to figure out how to earn rewards, but it’s important not to let them fail too many times in a row—frustration doesn’t help anyone. How is crate training going for you? Has your puppy started to settle in their crate or X-pen? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear your experiences! 🐶✨ 📅 Upcomi

Mastering the Sit-Stay: Treat Placement Matters 🐾 When it comes to teaching behaviours like a solid sit-stay, treat placement can make or break your training success. Check out this video of Allison working with Turbo on his sit-stay 👇 Notice how Turbo naturally reaches for the food when she goes to reward him. Instead of giving him the treat immediately, Allison pauses until Turbo chooses to settle back into position. Then she rewards by gently pushing the treat into his mouth—avoiding rewarding the reaching behaviour altogether. The dog pulling back is not required but at the beginning it helps us see what action is being rewarded. Why Treat Placement Matters If you’ve been struggling with what I call the “short game” of stays, treat placement is probably be the culprit. Here’s what typically happens: You offer the treat slightly away from the dog’s mouth. The dog reaches forward to get it. Over time, this reaching behaviour becomes a habit. It might not seem like a big deal at first, but eventually, your dog starts anticipating the reward. They’ll break their position or stand for the treat as soon as you move toward them—eliminating the concept of staying altogether. Pro Tip: From the very beginning, reward in a way that ensures your dog doesn’t move forward. Push the treat gently into their mouth while they remain still. This helps them understand that staying in position is part of the game, even for little puppies. Start small, be consistent, and watch your dog’s sit-stay transform! Thank you Alison and Turbo for playing in the video. Do you have a stay story or tips to share? Drop them in the comments! 🐶

Agility! Struggling with Focus, Impulse Control, or Basic Manners? Whether you’re looking to build a solid foundation for agility or just want a well-mannered companion, we’ve got the perfect class to help you get there! 🏆 Now Enrolling – 6 weeks of classes ** AGILITY FOUNDATIONS (For teams NEW to agility) 📅 Thursday, March 6 @ 6:00 PM 📅 Sunday, March 30 @ 10:15 AM ** BASIC MANNERS (Focus, impulse control, leash walking, no jumping, obedience basics) 📅 Thursday, March 6 @ 7:15 PM 📅 Sunday, March 30 @ 9:00 AM 📍 Location: 3327 Wallace Road, South Mountain, Ontario 📩 Message us to secure your spot—spaces are limited!

Video 4: Indoor Scent Work 🕵️‍♂️🐕 When the weather outside is frightful, give your dog’s incredible nose a workout with scent games! Start by building value for a box: 🐾 Toss some treats into the box and let your dog find them. 🐾 Add multiple boxes—now your dog has to figure out which box holds the treats. 🐾 Level up by hiding treats around a room and having your dog sniff them out. ✨ Pro Tip: This game doubles as a great way to feed your dog their dinner while keeping them entertained! Benefits: 🌟 Searching for hidden items burns mental energy and is a fantastic way to tire out your dog indoors without braving the cold. 🎁 Bonus: Share a video of you playing this game in the comments, and you’ll be entered into a draw for a winter-themed biothane leash! Give it a go, share your progress, and stay tuned—we’ll announce the winner of the leash draw on New Year’s Day!

Video 3: Hide-and-Seek Fun 🎉 Looking for a fun way to tire your dog out and improve their invisible leash? Try hide-and-seek! The invisible leash is all about teaching your dog to keep an eye on you at all times. When the weather cooperates, this game is even more fun to play in the forest! ✨ Bonus: It’s a great activity for the whole family—kids love getting involved too! 🐾 Build your dog’s drive to come to you while keeping them mentally and physically active. Where’s your dog’s favorite hiding spot? Let us know in the comments! 🎁 Bonus: Share a video of you playing this game in the comments, and you’ll be entered into a draw for a winter-themed biothane leash! Give it a try, share your progress, and don’t forget to check back tomorrow for the final activity in this winter series!

Video 2: Down-to-Sit-and-Back Exercise 💪 Cold weather can make it tough to keep your dog fit, especially for our shorter-coated friends! This simple down-to-sit-and-back exercise engages multiple muscle groups, helping your dog stay active and strong throughout the winter months. ✨ Goal: Focus on your dog keeping a straight back as they fold down. ✨ Tip: With multiple reps, this becomes a strength training exercise. Start with 3 sets of 5 reps and gradually work up to 3 sets of 10 reps. Watch for signs of discomfort to ensure your dog doesn’t overdo it. 🐶 Think of this like dumbbell curls for a human: one rep is easy, 10 reps are a challenge, and 100 is impossible! Give it a try and share your experience in the comments—let us know how your pup does with this fun and beneficial exercise! All videos submitted in the comments of you working on this exercise with your dog will be entered in a draw for a winter themed biothane leash.

Looking for Fun Indoor Activities with Your Pup This Winter? 🐾 Over the next four days, I’ll be sharing 4 winter activities for you to try with your dog! These games are designed to keep your pup mentally and physically engaged during the colder months. Video 1: Strengthening the Sit Cue Winter is the perfect time to sharpen your dog's skills indoors! In today’s video, we’re working on the sit cue with distractions to help your dog focus no matter what’s going on around them. Ideas for distractions you can try at home: 🐾 Empty food bowl on the floor 🐾 Full food bowl on the floor 🐾 Kids running around 🐾 Opening the cookie cupboard 🐾 Loud music 🐾 A video of dogs barking ✨ Goal: Have your dog sit on the first cue and hold the position until released. 🐶 This exercise is a great way to build patience and reliability in your pup. 🎁 Bonus: Share a video in the comments of you working on this exercise with your dog, and you’ll be entered into a draw for a winter-themed biothane leash! Try it out, show us your progress, and don’t forget to check back tomorrow for the next fun activity!

Essential Puppy Skill: ODR (Observe, Don’t React) ODR, previously called the "Post Game," is one of the first things I work on with a puppy. Let me tell you why it’s so important! What I Want: A dog that can walk calmly on a loose leash regardless of the environment. How We Achieve It: Right from the start, I reinforce watching without engaging. Don't worry I also work on engagement, but first the calm. Here’s the Truth: Pulling and lunging aren’t innate behaviors—they’re trained. Yes, you read that right! We unintentionally teach our dogs to pull and lunge by reinforcing the behavior. Picture This: You’re walking down the street, and a neighbor is excited to meet your new puppy. You let your puppy greet them, and it happens again on your next walk. Soon your puppy starts anticipating these greetings, pulling toward people they want to meet. A few weeks later, as your puppy grows, the pulling gets harder to manage. You try to stop it, but your neighbor (or anyone passing by) keeps engaging with your dog. Every time your puppy pulls and gets to greet someone, they’re learning that pulling works—and before you know it, they’re lunging and barking at everyone they see. Why ODR Matters: ODR helps prevent leash issues like pulling and reactivity before they start. If your dog already struggles, ODR can retrain them to control themselves and develop better leash manners. Want to Learn More? Check the comments for a link to our ODR PDF—a step-by-step guide to keep you on track! ODR is a skill we cover in all our classes, encouraging dogs to observe and not react. Paola Hoger Shake-A-Paw Dog Training **** NOW ENROLLING: 2nd Feb - Sunday AGILITY FOUNDATIONS @ 9:00 AM BASIC MANNERS @ 10:15 AM 📩 Message us for more info and to secure your spot! 📍 3327 Wallace Road, South Mountain, Ontario.

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Canada’s Original Dog Trainer.