Delightful Dogs

12/12/2024

Delightful Dogs will be closed for the Winter from December 13, 2024 – March 30, 2025.

Online class enrollment form submissions will be followed up on during our closure and all other inquiries will be returned on March 31st.

For more information such as classes, schedules, links, private training options or to enroll in an upcoming spring class, visit our website at: www.delightfuldogs.net

For training behaviour tips or advice, visit the resources page on our website or do a keyword search on this business page.

*Business Will Return To Normal Hours Again March 31st, 2025*

❄️ Wishing you a Safe and Wonderful Winter Season! ❄️

12/09/2024

A look into dogs playing and how it is often misread. A deeper look into videos of dogs playing where we look at intensity, dog body language, dog play bows...

12/09/2024

Let them sniff!

12/09/2024

Did you know??

Dogs see color differently than humans do. While humans have three types of color receptors (cones) in their eyes that allow us to perceive a broad spectrum of colors, dogs have only two types of cones. This difference affects how they perceive color.

Here’s a summary of how dogs see color:

Limited Color Palette: Dogs primarily see shades of blue and yellow. They have difficulty distinguishing between red and green, perceiving these colors more like shades of gray or brown. This means their color vision is similar to that of a person with red-green color blindness.

More Sensitive to Motion: Dogs have a higher number of rod cells (which detect light and movement) in their retinas compared to humans. This gives them superior night vision and the ability to detect motion better, making them excellent at spotting moving objects in low light.

Contrast and Brightness: Dogs are more attuned to differences in brightness and shades of gray. They may notice contrasts better than color, which helps them detect objects and movements even in dim conditions.

Field of Vision: Dogs also have a wider field of vision—around 240 degrees compared to humans' 190 degrees—allowing them to see more of their surroundings without moving their heads.

In summary, while dogs have a more limited color perception compared to humans, they excel in other visual aspects like motion detection and low-light visibility.

12/09/2024

🥹

12/09/2024

🌟 Are You Asking Your Dog to Walk Across a Tiled Floor Wearing Stilettos? 🌟

Did you know that your dog's paws are designed for outdoor adventures, not for navigating slippery indoor surfaces?

🐾 Nails: Built for gripping soft ground, but useless on hard floors.
🐾 Paw pads: Perfect outdoors, but less effective on smooth tiles.

Imagine walking across tiles in stilettos—tricky, right? That’s what it’s like for your dog!

Help them out:
✅ Add rugs or runners to give them grip.
✅ Consider paw-safe mats in their favourite spots.

A small change can make a BIG difference for your dog’s comfort and confidence. 💕

11/30/2024

"My dog is stubborn" is something I hear in my line of work all the time.

I always ask the question" do you consider your dog to be stubborn" because if the answer is "yes" I know there are a LOT of questions to be asked to get to the bottom of what isn't working.

"Stubborn" is another generic label, which serves no purpose, because it doesn't make training any better / more efficient.

Dogs described as being "stubborn" struggle with many things, but they are never stubborn by choice. I mean no dog ever wakes up and thinks " You know what? I will be difficult today. I know what they want me to do, but I just won't".

Here are some of the reasons why dogs struggle behind the "stubborn" label":

⚠️they are tired;
⚠️they are unwell, in pain / discomfort;
⚠️they have an 'off day;
⚠️that are scared;
⚠️the environment is too distracting / overwhelming;
⚠️the task is too difficult;
⚠️they don't understand;
⚠️they are not comfortable performing the behaviour;
⚠️they need a higher value reinforcer;
⚠️the reinforcer is added too late / at the wrong times;
⚠️you've missed a step on the process;
⚠️you are increasing the level of difficultly too fast;
⚠️there is way too much distraction around;
⚠️your handling skills need work;
⚠️the equipment is too scary;
⚠️they are overwhelmed;
⚠️they need desensitisation / counterconditioning;
⚠️the exercise doesn't suit their breed, age, health;
⚠️they foundations have not been explained well enough;
⚠️you are rushing through the process;
⚠️you are getting angry / frustrated with them, which is scary;
⚠️you are inconsistent with what you've asked for vs what you are reinforcing;
⚠️you pick wrong times for training;
⚠️wrong equipment is being used;
⚠️you are rushing things....

The list goes on....

So before we we stick yet another, unhelpful, label on our dogs, lets stop and reflect why the dog isn't doing well with training, what can WE change in the process to make the training process work for the learner - the dog.

11/13/2024

11/13/2024

🔵 There is a period of time (just a few seconds) when dogs do meet face to face which can be filled with tension💥 (you may notice dogs are excited to pull towards and then may stiffen when there)...that is a very dangerous time...and your dogs face is right beside a dogs mouth.

There is so much more I wanted to say on this subject, but it wouldn't fit on the graphic. Some other points I wanted to make about letting dogs meet by pulling towards each other.

🔵 Face to face meetings are not common when dogs are interacting off lead.
🔵 You have no idea if the other dog yours is desperate to meet is friendly...or not.
🔵 The majority of dogs are very choosy who they interact with....encouraging them to pull towards dogs doesn't allow them to take time to read the other dogs behaviour or body language.
🔵 They can learn to ALWAYS do this if this is encouraged.
🔵 Encouraging dogs to meet face to face will encourage your dog to go directly to dogs faces whether off lead or on.
🔵 Some dogs will take just a few seconds to decide if they like each other, if they are face to face (and with tension) it can end very badly.
🔵 Dogs read energy, the other dogs, the other guardian/owners and yours. If they sense an increase in respiration, heart rate or stress hormone release.... they can interpret that as danger and will react to that perceived danger. They cannot flee, they could fidget, they may freeze......but many will go straight to fight.

🔵 It can take just one negative experience for dogs to develop reactivity...and having a tense lead with no other options to escape a situation can cause a lifelong issue with lead reactivity and dog reactivity.

🙂Unmarked graphics are available for $ 1.20 USD or $ 2 NZD each (approx), these are then able to be used off Facebook for client handouts, posters etc. Please visit ABC Dogs Patreon Shop for our collection of graphics.
Everyone is free to share these posts on social media, however off social media use is protected. Screen shots are a violation of copyright.
Please respect that these graphics take time and effort to make . All graphics belong to ABC Dogs NZ and are under copyright.

11/12/2024

Mark your calendars! ✍️
Sunday, December 1st 1-4pm Pet Photos with Santa Event!
Hosted by Creature Comfort Pet Emporium
This includes (all friendly pets) pictures with Santa for a minimum donation of $20, nail trims for $15, with a bake sale and raffle on site!
We always have so much fun at these events while raising much needed funds for Hobo Haven Rescue

We also have a blast seeing everyone!
Hope to see you there!

11/11/2024

Today, we honour the thousands of devoted men and women who served to protect our country. While you remember those who fought for our freedom, please take a moment to honour the devoted dogs who served so bravely at their side.

Learn more about dogs in the war http://bit.ly/2fGnxUB

11/08/2024

The trouble with ‘training tools’

Force free trainers are firmly opposed to using training tools that are aversive in nature, including slip leads, electric collars and prong collars as some of the most widespread that are seen.

Proponents of their use will point to how well they ‘work’ – for example we’ll often see people proclaim that using a prong collar has completely revolutionised their walks with their dogs and they go on to say that ‘used correctly’ it’s an excellent training tool. So let's use that as an example to see what the issue is with these tools.
The problem is that it’s not actually really training the dog.

Look at how positive reinforcement is used to train a cue in dogs. When the dog makes the right choice, does the right thing then they get a reward. They like the reward and so are more likely to do the same thing again in an attempt to get that same reward.

Once the association is firmly made and the dog is able to reliably respond to the cue in the way we’d like, we start to fade out the use of the reward. If using treats, the dog might start getting a reward every second time, third time, then randomly so they are never quite sure when the reward is coming (but it might be the next time they do that thing, so they will keep trying). Eventually we are using the reward very little, but the dog is still responding to the cue in the desired way.

Ok, you might say, how is that different to the prong collar?

The prong works by contact of the prongs on the skin of the dog’s neck (remember that a dog’s skin is 3-5 cells thick compared to the human’s at least 10-15 cells thick). This is uncomfortable. Some people will say they tried it on themselves and it was fine – look at the difference in skin, and also remember that the dog has no way to know when the collar is going to be tightened.

I’ve had people tell me that the dog’s neck is the strongest muscle in their body equivalent to the human thigh. Not only is this physiologically incorrect (to say the very least!) it is also dangerous. Think about the delicate structures in the human throat.

The windpipe.
Oesophagus.
Lymph Nodes.
Carotid artery.
Jugular vein.
Thyroid.

All of these are in the dog’s neck as well and are very vulnerable to injury. The result of pressure on the dog's neck, especially firm and rapid pressure like a 'lead pop' (even from a flat collar) can be potentially catastrophic.

Danger and discomfort aside, the fact is that, while these collars might stop pulling while being worn, they fail as training devices because no actual training takes place. Take that prong collar off of the dog, put a normal flat collar back or a harness back on, and see how long it takes for the dog to realise they are able to pull again without the pain?

What the slip lead, prong collar (or electric collar if used to shock the dog when they pull) does is suppress the behaviour in that moment. It does nothing to show the dog what they should be doing or deal with why the dog is actually pulling - which is generally because they have not been taught properly to and so don't really understand what we want from them. And also dogs often naturally move faster on their four legs than we do on our two, so again they need to be taught how to match themselves to the pace that's needed.

The absolute best way to do that is to reward the dog when they do what they want, when they are in the right place for loose lead walking. Yes, this can take time and so the 'quick fix' can seem appealing, but the danger of using anything that the dog actively seeks to avoid is that it could damage their trust in the people around them and have serious consequences for the relationship between you.

Teaching them what we would like them to do and how we can both be comfortable during the walk is so much more effective than trying to just stop a behaviour, and using positive reinforcement and force free methods build their confidence and trust in us.

And no, I’m not expecting people to immediately take off the tools, but what you can do when you become aware of the problems of relying on aversive measures that cause discomfort, pain and fear, is find a force free trainer who can help you see how to show your dog where to walk nicely and comfortably for you both, or find other tools that are not aversive, for instance a harness with 2 points of attachment so the dog can be walked from the back clip but the front clip allows for steering the front end if needed while training is ongoing.

11/02/2024

Sad Truth 😔

10/29/2024

🎃🐾 Halloween Dog Safety Tips 🐾🎃

As we gear up for a spooky and fun Halloween, let’s not forget about keeping our furry friends safe! 👻 Here are some tips to ensure your dog has a howlingly safe Halloween:

Keep Treats Out of Reach 🍬🍫: Many Halloween treats, especially chocolate and candy with xylitol, are toxic for dogs. Make sure all candy is stored safely away from those curious noses!

Costumes: Comfort is Key 👗🐶: If your dog is dressing up, make sure the costume isn’t too tight or restrictive. Avoid small pieces they can chew off and swallow, and make sure they’re comfortable and not stressed.

Watch the Door 🚪🐕: With trick-or-treaters coming and going, the front door will be opening a lot. This can be a great opportunity for an escape! Keep your pup secure, either by using a gate or keeping them in another room during peak trick-or-treat hours.

ID & Microchip 🏷️📲: In case your dog does slip out, make sure they’re wearing proper ID tags and are microchipped with up-to-date information.

Halloween Décor 🎃🕯️: Be cautious with decorations like candles, string lights, and small plastic parts. These can be dangerous if chewed or knocked over.

Stranger Anxiety 😱🐕: Costumes and lots of people can be overwhelming for some dogs. If your dog seems anxious or frightened, create a safe, quiet space away from all the action.

Have a fun and safe Halloween with your pets! 👻🐾 Let’s make sure it’s a treat for everyone!

10/28/2024

Have you ever watched a dog trainer working with a dog on a TV program or on social media, and the dog is barking and lunging? The dog appears really reactive or aggressive. It looks completely out of control. The trainer forces the dog to face their fears by fully exposing them with no option to flee and suddenly the dog is magically calm. They are no longer barking or lunging. They may even allow the trainer to touch them.

What is this sorcery?

While its often celebrated as magic behavioural change, this is actually behaviour suppression and learned helplessness. The dog did everything they could to get away from the feared stimulus, so they growled, barked and lunged. When the dog realises that all his efforts to escape are in vain, they give up and emotionally shut down. To the untrained eye, this dog appears calm because they are no longer 'shouting'. If the trainer uses an aversive, like a slip lead, prong collar or a shock collar, a dog will likely stop fighting and communicating much faster, especially if their breathing is compromised. (something that happens all too often)

How could removing all agency and choice, and completely ignoring the needs of a dog make them feel better about something they fear? It doesn't. Your dog has just learned to stop communicating and it is one of the most distressing things to witness if you fully recognise what is truly happening in that training session.

10/21/2024

DISTRACTED DOG WALKERS

The distracted dog walker is commonly seen chatting on their cell phone, wearing headphones or socializing with other people while oblivious to what their dog is doing, how their dog is feeling or what is going on in the environment.

This may not sound like a problem to some, but it is something that many people have a problem with, even more so if you have a reactive dog.

I compare walking a dog to driving a car. It’s not so much about our driving skills, but having to constantly be aware of the driving skills of others – trying to predict what they will do, which rules of the road they will ignore and how distracted they are. This is especially true in the country I live in, where driving can be a stressful experience.

I understand that we often need to multi task – there simply doesn’t seem to be enough time in our day to accomplish everything we need to, but walking our dogs should not be one of these times.

Some people might say – “but my dog is really friendly, well socialized, gets on well with everyone, is well trained, knows this environment well etc. and I hear that.

But another dog might not be – maybe they need space, are reactive, are not sociable, are recovering from an illness, might be terrified of another dog racing straight towards them chasing a ball thrown from a ball launcher etc.

If distracted dog walkers have no regard for other dogs or other people, they should at least have regard for their own dogs. Walking your dog should be a time of bonding, of relationship, of seeing the environment through the eyes of your dog, of reinforcing and teaching wanted behaviours, of keeping them safe and protected from the unknown.

Our dogs need us to be focused, to pay attention, to be aware and attentive.

Our dogs depend on us to advocate for them.