Sechelt Animal Hospital

06/21/2024

06/20/2024

Muzzle Training Part 2!
So, we've got the first step down pat (touching her chin to my open hand) and now we need to go to the next step: Having her rest her chin on my hand until I release her.
Seems simple, right? However, as you can see from the first part of the video, I tried to make her wait too long too quickly, and she got frustrated (and very drooly)! Remember, as far as she knows, she is doing everything correctly and still not getting the reward; she doesn't realize I've changed the game, and only thinks that I'm not doing my part properly! When she (or I, for that matter) gets frustrated, then learning becomes more difficult, so we needed to reset. I got her to do a spin (which is an a command she knows like the back of her paw) and went back to just touching her chin to my hand; she got a reward (ie, confirmation that she's doing the right thing), and was able to refocus.
I then gave her a little break because Flicker insisted on his time in the spotlight. This also increased Lemon's focus because how dare I give him some of her cookies! A little competition is a good thing sometimes, lol.
Once Lemon and I got him out of the way, we went back to training! This time, I started with making her wait only 1 or 2 seconds before the reward, and gradually extending it to 6 seconds over several tries. As you can see, she was much less frustrated and more successful than before! She is still a little impatient (as you can see by the oh-so-subtle nose nudges) but that's ok!
We'll keep working this step until she is less impatient before moving on to the next: Introducing the muzzle for the first time! Stay tuned...

06/15/2024

Juneau came to see us yesterday to get some sutures removed from her abdomen. She was so comfortable that she didn't want to leave after we were done, and we had to offer her a bribe to get up out of Melissa's lap!
Clearly we did not meet the appropriate belly rub and snuggle quota for her, but we made up for it with cookies 😄

06/14/2024

Let’s talk muzzle training!
First things first: A DOG WHO NEEDS TO WEAR A MUZZLE IS NOT A “BAD” DOG.
Muzzles are useful for any number of reasons, from the obvious bite prevention, to the less obvious “my dog is super friendly but will eat literally everything on a walk and I need something that can stop it because I can’t afford another vet visit for foreign body surgery, toxicity, or gastrointestinal distress”.
Maybe your dog is the friendliest thing in the world and would never bite, but there are some things that can push even a normally placid dog into biting. Fear is a big one, as well as pain, and these are two things that your pet may encounter at the vet clinic. 95% of the time, dog’s who need a muzzle in the clinic don’t really want to bite us but we’re strange people doing strange things to them in a strange environment and the dog knows they don’t have the option to run away, so that leaves biting as the only available defense mechanism; we do our best to make vet visits a positive thing and to respect a pet’s boundaries, but sometimes we don’t have any option but to push through.
Unfortunately, when we do have to muzzle a dog, it’s often the first time they’ve ever experienced one, and that can make their fear and anxiety even worse; in the future they may associate a muzzle with an unpleasant or painful experience, and it will be that much harder to handle them the next time. Obviously, this is not an ideal situation, but muzzle training is something you can do at home that will help!
Muzzle training is getting your dog used to having a muzzle on and to associate it with a positive experience, so that when that have to have it on in a “real-life” situation it becomes one less thing to be scared about. It may even bring them some comfort because if they are in pain, or if they are scared, the muzzle can be at least one safe and familiar thing.
It’s an easy thing to say, but how the heck do we do that?! I’ve never muzzle trained a dog before, so I decided to put my money where my mouth is, and do two things: 1) I’m going to muzzle train my dog who has never had a muzzle put on her face in her entire life, and 2) Show that you can indeed teach an old dog new tricks because she is my special old lady at 13 years old! We’re taking it in baby steps because I want her to be a willing participant in every step.
For the first step, I don’t even need the muzzle. I just need treats and, above all, PATIENCE. I want to teach her to simply put her chin into my open hand. Eventually this will progress to putting the muzzle in my hand and having her voluntarily put her face in the muzzle, but for now: baby steps. The whole process took about 10 mins – I cobbled together 3 different videos from the beginning, middle, and end (my apologies for the Grey’s Anatomy playing in the background, lol).
All I did was open my left hand flat at about the level of her chin, and keep a treat in my right hand between my body and my left hand as a lure; then we play the waiting game. I know that when she tries to get the treat, at some point she is going to accidentally touch her chin to my hand, and the second that happens she gets praise and a treat. You can see from the first video that she tries to come from below to nudge my left hand up so she can get the treat; when that didn’t work, she tried coming from above. As soon as her chin touched my open hand I said “Yes” and gave her a cookie. At this stage, she knows she did something right, but isn’t quite sure what. In the second part, you see her “boop” my hand with her nose; this is because she is trying a familiar trick that has always resulted in praise and a treat before (which is to touch my open palm with her nose), but it didn’t work this time. She got a little confused and tried to sniff the treat, which accidentally put her chin in my palm, and again I said “Yes” and gave her the treat. Now she’s catching on! By the last part of the video, she is intentionally putting her chin in my hand, and waiting for the reward, and that was the goal for this first step. Success!
We’ll practice this simple move until it is rock solid (multiple times a day but for no longer than 10-15 minutes at a time), and then we’ll move on to the next step, which will be to get her to actually rest her chin in my hand rather than just touching it. Stay tuned for future videos (and much shorter blurbs to read)!

06/13/2024

The many entertaining faces of Theo today 🩷
Nice fresh, clean smile!

05/05/2024

Leelo and Percy are here to remind you that sharing is caring!

Taking this picture made me think of my own dog, Lemon. She was not allowed to participate in this because she does NOT believe that sharing is something she should have to do with other dogs; she believes that all food items are hers and hers alone, which gave me the idea for this post:

We’re going to talk about resource guarding!

There is a LOT to discuss regarding this particular issue, so I’m going to be as brief as possible. If you’d like more details, or if this is something you are dealing with at home, you can call us, or better yet, contact a trainer or behaviour consultant.

Resource guarding is when an animal feels they are about to lose something important, and takes action to keep it. It is not limited to growling, lunging, biting, or fighting; the first warning signs are often something as simple as freezing, a hard stare, “side eye”, a turn of the head, or blocking the item with their body. These initial signs are often something that we miss, which leads us to perceive that a bite, for example, “came out of the blue with no warning”.

It’s important to remember that guarding resources is a natural behaviour in all animals, humans included! Access to food, water, and a safe space is essential to survival, and is hardwired into animal nature to protect the things we believe we need to survive. While it is normal, it is certainly not desirable, and can become a dangerous problem if the animal is willing to bite or fight to keep an item.

While this is most commonly seen around food or treats, it can develop around any item deemed “valuable”; it could be something that we wouldn’t consider important, like an old slipper, but might be the One Ring to your pet’s Gollum.

There are a LOT of things you can do to manage resource guarding; I’m just going to outline some brief dos and don’ts:

1)Don’t punish growling! A growl is your pet’s warning sign, not a “challenge”; it’s no different than when you or I would say “stop doing that” or "I'm uncomfortable with this" to another person. If your pet learns that growling results in punishment, and the loss of the item they were guarding, then the next time you reach for it, they are more likely to skip the warning and go straight for the bite. To use a human example, if someone tries to steal my Oreos, I’ll ask them to stop. If they continue trying to steal my Oreos, I will escalate to smacking their greedy stealing fingers away (or worse…) because obviously my warning isn't working. Listen to the growl, take a step back, and evaluate the situation so you can avoid it in the future and start treating the issue. And don’t touch my Oreos.

2) Don’t “play” with their food and chews. Don’t stick your hands into their dishes while they’re eating, or randomly take away their chew. Contrary to popular belief, this does not establish “dominance”. All you’re doing is annoying your pet, and teaching them that when you reach for something, they’ll lose it.

3)Do train your pet! Giving up something willingly and happily needs to be trained and rewarded, just like any other desirable behaviour. There are a few things that are vital here and that is time, patience, and consistency. This is not going to be an overnight process by any stretch. Practice commands like “go to place”, “drop it”, and “here”, with plenty of positive reinforcement, until they are absolutely solid. Which leads me to the next thing:

4)Do get a trainer! A certified trainer or behaviour consultant is invaluable. They will make sure you stay safe, and that your pet gets the positive training they need to learn. There are several different processes to make this happen and the safest, most effective, way is to do it under the guidance of a trainer or behaviour consultant.

5)Do make a list of all the things your pet becomes possessive over. Think about how you can change the environment to remove access to these things, or reduce the need to guard it. For example, if your dog likes to steal your socks and then gets possessive over them, make sure to keep the socks where your dog can’t access them, like in a closet or a closed room. (Bonus: this will also prevent sock related foreign body surgeries!)

6) Do let your pet eat in peace. For things that you can’t just remove from your pet’s environment, think about managing the context. Put their food bowl in a separate area where they can eat undisturbed, and put the bowl away in a cupboard between meals. This “safe space” would also be the best place to let them enjoy a chew or a long-lasting treat.

The goal of any of this is to change your pet’s emotional response from dread and fear of losing something special to them and annoyance from having their communications ignored, to happiness that your approach means something great is about to happen. Maybe even something greater than the special thing they have right now.

04/30/2024

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT

The Goose is Loose!
Goose is wanted for Possession of Cuteness with Intent to Distribute (in order to get treats)! He is to be considered armed (with those beautiful blues) and adorable. If you encounter this kitten, don't be a hero! Just immediately give up your snacks, and tell him how gorgeous he is.
We've included his mug-shot, and some found footage of his most recent attack. Be warned: the images shown may be considered too handsome for some viewers.

04/30/2024

Mico is a legend around here as the epitome of cat-like reflexes!
She is one of the most sweet and compliant kitties for nail trims and exams, but she ALWAYS whips around to try and give us a no-claws-slappin' when she gets back in her kennel.
Keeps us on our toes and, more importantly, makes us smile every time! 🥰

04/26/2024

This photogenic cutie is a beautiful example of canine heterochromia - her eyes are two very different colours!
Heterochromia is rare in humans but can be seen a bit more often in certain breeds (and their mixes) of dogs and even cats too.
Do you have a pet with heterochromia? We’d love to see a pic!

04/21/2024

Going to the vet can be a very scary experience for our patients. They come into a building that smells of other animals (some of whom may be scared, sick, or injured), they get touched all over by a bunch of weirdos speaking in silly voices, they get squeezed and prodded with strange instruments, and they more often than not get poked with sharp objects!

We do what we can to make each pet as comfortable as possible, but one of the best ways to make a vet visit less scary is for the owners to prep and practice at home!

Here are some ways you can help make a visit to the vet a more pleasant experience for your dogs and/or cats:

1) Desensitize Your Pet to Touch, Handling, and Restraint
This may seem a bit silly because your pet likely enjoys being touched at home; however, petting your dog or cat is not the same as handling them. Your pet definitely knows the difference, and the moment it gets into something that seems more intentional or formal, they immediately get suspicious about it. Feet, nails, ears, and mouths are common spots that pets dislike having touched, but you can work on any sensitive area by lightly touching it while offering your pet a reward, such as tasty treats, praise, or a favourite toy (depending on what your pet considers a “reward”). Gradually lengthen the time you hold a body part until your pet no longer resists having it handled. Once your pet gets that hang of it, try some stranger things: gently poke, pinch, pull up skin, put your arm over your pet’s back and shoulders, etc. Make sure to make it a positive experience, and don’t push your pet! If they are getting uncomfortable with something, take a step back, take a break, and try again. The goal is to have your pet think, “People do weird things to me sometimes, but it’s always ok”. This is a good time for dog owners to do muzzle training as well. Muzzles are not just for dangerous dogs: any dog who is fearful or in pain can bite. If they are happy to wear a muzzle, then in a stressful situation where they might have to wear one, it’s not going to add any additional stress.

2) Desensitize Your Pet to Transportation
If your pet gets in the carrier or car only when they go to the vet, they will soon learn that transport equals a frightening event. When your pet sees the carrier, or you ask them to get into the car, their anxiety kicks in long before they arrive at the hospital. Teach your pet to love their carrier by keeping it out in a common place. Create a cozy, warm space with blankets and toys, and frequently place treats inside. For pets with car anxiety, take quick trips around the block or to nearby places they enjoy, offering treats during the ride, and then return home for more goodies. Gradually increase the length of the car rides as your pet becomes more comfortable. Pheromone based sprays or wipes (like Feliway for cats and Adaptil for Dogs) can also help pets associate carriers and cars with safe spaces.

3) Allow Your Pet Time To Relieve Themselves
I’m sure we all know what it feels like when you REALLY have to go, but you can’t. It makes even mundane tasks seem so very URGENT. Your pets are no different. This is difficult to do with cats, but if you have a dog, make sure you have time before the appointment to let them go and check their “pee-mail”.

4) Avoid Busy Waiting Rooms
A loud, crowded waiting room can ramp up a nervous pet’s anxiety. We do our best to get our patients into an exam room right away, but sometimes that can’t happen. If a room isn’t available, consider waiting in your car, or going for a short walk, so your pet can release some nervous energy. Just remember to tell us where you are going and leave us with a number we can reach you at when we do have a room ready!

5) Happy Visits
During a happy visit, your pet will greet team members, receive lots of attention, and explore parts of the hospital, all while receiving delicious treats – no poking or prodding! The goal is that your pet will eventually learn that the vet clinic is the place where they get treats and pets, and therefore get excited to see us as soon as you pull into the parking lot.

6) Keep Yourself Calm
Our pets are incredibly attuned to our emotions, and will look to us for guidance when they are feeling uncertain about a situation. If you are worried or anxious, your pet will notice. If you remain calm and behave as normally as possible, your pet will be more at ease. Give yourself plenty of time to get to the appointment; if you are feeling stressed, and rushed, then your pet will feel it too.

7) Skip Breakfast
One of the best ways to keep a pet happy and distracted at the vet clinic is with cookies and treats. If your pet is food motivated, bring them to their visit hungry so food distractions will be more effective. If they have a favourite treat, then bring those along too. If your pet is not food motivated, but values other rewards like toys, then bring a special, high-value toy that you only use for vet visits and other special occasions. Anything your pet associates with a good time can help, including brushes and blankets.

8)Ask Your Vet About Anti-Anxiety Products or Medications
Sometimes, even if both owners and vet staff to everything right, a pet’s stress response is too extreme to reverse without assistance. Anti-anxiety medications can be given before veterinary visits to decrease their reactivity and help them learn to make new, positive, associations. Ask your vet about medications and non-pharmaceutical options (like calming supplements, compression garments, pheromones, etc) that may help your pet relax.

As you may have gleaned, none of these are “quick fixes” for a pet’s vet related anxiety, but the time and effort is well worth it to make your Fido or Felix more comfortable when they have to go see the Dr.

04/10/2024

Should I Be Brushing My Pet's Teeth?

Yes! Without daily brushing, plaque will build up on your pet's teeth. Plaque is the accumulation of bacteria. Eventually, that plaque will form calculus, furthering irritation to the gums and leading to infection. That infection will loosen and damage the supporting structures of the teeth, causing Periodontal Disease. In advanced cases of periodontal diseases, some teeth may be to be removed to treat the underlying disease.

How Do I Brush My Pet's Teeth?

We recommend using a soft-bristled toothbrush or finger toothbrush, and a veterinary approved toothpaste. Do not use a human tooth paste as it contains fluoride, and animals are unable to spit it out. You can also use dental wipes, as pets usually tolerate them more than brushing.

What Is A COHAT?

A COHAT is a Comprehensive Oral Health Assessment and Treatment, also known as a dental cleaning. These are the steps of a COHAT:
Pre-anesthetic Exam and Blood Work
Placing patient under general anesthetic
Full-mouth dental x-rays
Oral exam under anesthetic, includes dental charting to create a treatment plan
Extracting diseased teeth
Scaling of calculus, above and below the gumline
Polishing of the teeth
Recovery from anesthetic
Home-care instructions and Plan for Oral Hygiene Care

Most patients need yearly dental cleanings, but the time between dental cleanings will depend on their oral hygiene care at home.

Why Does It Need To Be Done Under Anesthetic?

General Anesthesia is required to properly assess and clean your pet's teeth. It is needed to immobilize the patient to properly clean under the gumline. It is also needed to keep your pet comfortable and pain-free during this process, especially if tooth extraction is required. And most importantly, anesthesia is required to place an endotracheal tube in your pet's airway to prevent the bacteria in the mouth from entering their respiratory system.

We do not recommend Anesthetic-Free Dentals. Without anesthetic, the calculus under the gumline will not be removed and the teeth will not be able to be properly assessed in conjunction with the dental x-rays. Anesthetic-Free Dentals make the teeth look white and shiny, but does not address or treat the underlying periodontal disease.

How To Tell If My Pet Has Periodontal Disease?

The most obvious symptom is bad breath (halitosis). Halitosis is caused by infection of the teeth. Your pets should not have a bad odour from their mouth, if you notice this you should schedule them for a pre-dental appointment.

What To Do If I Think My Pet Has Periodontal Disease?

You should contact your veterinarian and have your pet booked in for a Pre-Dental Exam. Your vet will do a visual assessment of your pet's teeth and grade the severity of periodontal disease present.

04/09/2024

We are so excited to announce that we are now OPEN ON MONDAYS! 💥📣

Thank you for your continued support over the past few years. We are thrilled to be here for you and your pets 6 days a week!

04/02/2024

A bag of pet store brand dog food was left leaning against our building. If you are missing it please let us know!

04/02/2024

We’ve had a warmer than usual winter, and as a result, the ticks came out early! So I thought I’d prove I’m not old and out of touch, and do what all the kids these days are doing:

Make a tick talk! (Bad-dum-tss)

More specifically, I want to talk about the disease that ticks can carry: Lyme disease.

Lyme disease is caused by a spirochete called Borrelia bergdorferi, and is carried and transmitted by several species of tick, but for our region the only two species of concern are the deer tick (Ixodes scapularis) and the Western Black Legged tick (Ixodes pacificus). Both of these species are found here on the Sunshine Coast and, according to the Government of Canada, we are a high-risk area for Lyme disease.

The canine experience of Lyme disease is very different to that of humans. In people, symptoms start with a rash and flu-like symptoms within a week or two of being bitten, and can progress to joint pain, and in rare cases neurological signs and an AV block. In dogs, symptoms start with arthritis-like signs beginning weeks or even months after being bitten, and may or may not be accompanied by a fever; kidney disease can develop, but neurological and cardiac signs are very rare. For the purposes of this post, I will only be talking about the canine experience.

Borrelia bergdorferi is a master of disguise and camouflage! Without getting too technical, it has the ability to change both it’s shape and it’s Outer Surface Proteins (OSPs) from when it lives in the tick, to when it passes through the tick’s mouth pieces, to when it lives in the host; in doing so, it can escape recognition and destruction by the host’s immune system. This presents a diagnostic challenge: if the host’s immune system can’t find or recognize it, then how can we?

The answer is a combination of a specific test for a peptide found in the spirochete and the presence or absence of clinical signs/symptoms. Dogs who test positive but are not showing any clinical signs are considered to have had an exposure at one point, but are not considered to actually have Lyme disease. Likewise, dogs who are showing signs of joint pain but are negative on the test are likely just arthritic as opposed to infected.

Treatment of Lyme disease involves a two to four week course of antibiotics, and improvement of joint pain should be seen within 48 hours. It is impossible to totally eliminate the spirochete once it’s entrenched in the host, but this course of treatment can bring it to a level where the host's immune system can keep it in check. It is this inability to totally eliminate the organism that can later cause kidney disease, so dogs who have tested positive and have had symptoms (even if they’ve been treated) should have their urine regularly checked for significant protein loss; this way, the kidney disease can be detected and treated as early as possible.

So, how to we prevent this from happening to our pooches? Transmission of Lyme disease takes at least 48 hours, so if the tick is removed before the 48 hours is up, then the disease cannot be passed on, and there are several options to get rid of the ticks before then. Topical products like Advantix will kill or repel the tick before it has a chance to bite; use caution if you have cats in the house though, as Advantix is toxic to our feline friends. With oral preventative products like Nexgard and Bravecto, ticks can still bite and feed off hosts but are killed before that 48 hour mark. If you don’t fancy giving your pet a monthly tick preventative, then a yearly vaccine can be given that will allow the immune system to recognize and eliminate the organism before it has a chance to change OSPs and hide.

Phew, that was a lot of information to get through! If you have any further questions about preventing Lyme disease, please let us know.

If you made it this far, congratulations, please enjoy the following:

What do the Eiffel Tower and a tick have in common?
They’re both Paris sites (parasites)! 😀

03/27/2024

Great smile ✅
Fantastic hair ✅
Winning personality ✅
Bitsie is the whole package! Thanks for coming to see us today.

03/25/2024

SPECIAL ORDERS!!!!
Due to our bi-annual inventory count all food and medication orders will be cut off after 11:30am on Tuesday, March 26th until Tuesday, April 2nd. Please review your stock at home and call us (604) 885-2309 or email [email protected] to get your orders in!

Please review our upcoming business hours below;

Friday, March 29th - Closed
Saturday, March 30th - Closed early for inventory 8:30am-3:00pm
Sunday, March 31st - Closed
Monday, April 1st - Closed
Tuesday, April 2nd - Back to regular business hours 8:30am-5:30pm 😊

02/16/2024

We will be closing at 430pm today for a staff training session.
If you have a medical emergency, please call 604-885-2309 and follow the instructions on the voicemail to reach the clinic on call.

01/03/2024

Just because it's January doesn't mean that the ticks are not out, this one was from today!

12/26/2023

Hope everyone is having a happy and safe Christmas 🎅🎄☃️❄
please share your christmas pets ❤💚❤💚❤💚

12/23/2023

From all of us, to all of you: We hope you have a relaxing and safe holiday season! Give your pets a snuggle and a snack for us 💕
❤️💚❤️💚 ❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️💚❤️
Sechelt Animal Hospital will be closed on December 24th, 25th, and 26th.
If you have a medical emergency, please phone 604-885-2309 and follow the instructions on the voicemail to reach the doctor on call.
Our office will re-open on Wednesday December 27th.

11/23/2023

We got an early present for the holidays: A New Dr!
Dr. Simpson was born and raised in New Jersey and earned an undergraduate degree at Rutgers University. She worked at Merck for two years before returning to veterinary school at Colorado State University. During veterinary school she participated in an externship at the American Veterinary Medical Association’s Government Relations Division in Washington, DC where she learned about the importance of lobbying for science policy. She fell in love with the Pacific Northwest while visiting and decided to move to Vancouver, where she worked a few years in a busy emergency centre then small animal practices before moving to the beautiful Sunshine Coast. She enjoys yoga, hiking, and taking her pup on the trails.
She is taking both new and old patients, so our wait times for exam appointments are next to none right now!
Welcome Dr. Simpson!

11/01/2023

HAPPY HALLOWEEN
🧙‍♀️👻🎃🍂
please share your own pets in the comments

10/18/2023

Sechelt Animal Hospital is hiring! We are looking for a full time Receptionist!

Sechelt Animal Hospital offers progressive medicine, and a wide variety of both
medical and surgical cases. Being a community that is a ferry ride away from the
nearest 24 hour veterinary hospital, we see and treat all kinds of emergencies and
illnesses along with standard appointments and surgeries.

At Sechelt Animal Hospital, we strive for the highest quality medicine, and our
support staff play a crucial role achieving this goal. Their skills are not
only used to the fullest, but are also encouraged to expand and grow. They support
all areas of the hospital, and are an integral part of the growth and vision of the
practice.

We are a busy practice, but we also value a work-life balance and believe that work
doesn’t have to be serious all the time.

Applicants must be able to work four to five 8 hour days per week, and be available to work on Saturdays. We are closed on Sundays and Mondays, so they are guaranteed those days off. Saturdays worked are on a rotating basis and shared as evenly as possible.
The ideal candidate should be able to work both independently and as a team, be self-driven, be a problem solver, and be able to work in a fast-paced environment in a calm and collected manner. Experience in a veterinary clinic is an asset but not required.

We offer competitive wages and benefits, including a generous pet benefits package,
medical, dental, and uniform allowances.

Please submit your CV/Resume to:
[email protected]
Or
[email protected]

Check out our website for more information about our clinic: https://www.secheltanimalhospital.com/

10/18/2023

Sechelt Animal Hospital is hiring! We are looking for a full time Veterinary Assistant!

Sechelt Animal Hospital offers progressive medicine, and a wide variety of both
medical and surgical cases. Being a community that is a ferry ride away from the
nearest 24 hour veterinary hospital, we see and treat all kinds of emergencies and
illnesses along with standard appointments and surgeries.

At Sechelt Animal Hospital, we strive for the highest quality medicine, and our
support staff play a crucial role achieving this goal. Their skills are not
only used to the fullest, but are also encouraged to expand and grow. They support
all areas of the hospital, and are an integral part of the growth and vision of the
practice.

We are a busy practice, but we also value a work-life balance and believe that work
doesn’t have to be serious all the time.

Full time Veterinary Assistants are expected to work four 10 hour days per week, and must be available to work Saturdays. Saturday shifts are schedules on a rotating basis and are shared as evenly as possible; we are closed on Sundays and Mondays, so those are guaranteed days off.

We offer competitive wages and benefits, including a generous pet benefits package,
medical, dental, and uniform allowances.

Please submit your CV/Resume to:
[email protected]
Or
[email protected]

Check out our website for more information about our clinic: https://www.secheltanimalhospital.com/