Happier Dogs - Training & Behaviour

Happier Dogs - Training & Behaviour We help dog owners to have healthy, more rewarding and less stressful relationship with their four legged loved ones.

Contact us for 1-1 reward based training and behaviour consultations. At Train Dogs Force Free we help dog owners to have healthy, positive, more rewarding and less stressful relationship with their four legged loved ones.

My friends dog was bitten by an Adder just last week. Please take note of what to do…
26/06/2025

My friends dog was bitten by an Adder just last week. Please take note of what to do…

Adder bites are most common from June to August; would you know what to do if your pet ever encountered one? 🐍

Although rare, it's a good idea to get clued up on what to do if your pet is ever bitten by a snake - especially adders, the UK's only venomous snake species. Usually, adders aren't a threat, but they might defend themselves if a curious pooch gets too close.

If your pet gets bitten by an adder, you must treat it as an emergency by following the first aid advice below and contacting your vet immediately. Cats can also suffer from adder bites (although it's less common), and the same first aid should apply.

You can reduce the chance of encountering adders by avoiding areas known for them; staying out of long grass, woodland, moorland, and along the coast (sand dunes/coastal paths); and researching any unfamiliar areas for adder 'hot-spots' before walking your dog 🐕

Learn more:
Dogs - https://pdsa.me/FSOC
Cats - https://pdsa.me/HlSH

[Visual description: An infographic showing photos of an adder and its markings. Alongside this is the following text: Adder bites in dogs. If your dog has been bitten by an adder, their symptoms will depend on where the bite is and where the venom spreads to. If the venom stays in the tissues around the bite, it will cause pain and swelling, but if it spreads further and gets into the bloodstream, it can cause much more serious problems, such as damage to the liver, kidneys, and nervous system. First aid for a snake bite. 1. If you see the snake, try to remember what it looks like or take a photo from a distance. Do not try to find the snake, get close to it, touch it, or harm it. Adders are a protected species, so it's illegal to hurt or kill them, and they can bite people if disturbed. 2. Keep your dog as still as possible to prevent the venom from spreading around their body. 3. Leave the bite alone, don't apply a bandage or tourniquet. 4. Call your vet to let them know you are coming down to the practice. 5. If possible, bring a car to your dog or, depending on their weight, carry them to it. Snake bites are an emergency - if your dog has been bitten, follow our first aid advice and take them to a vet ASAP.]

24/06/2025

Step 1. Always allow a dog to come to you.
Step 2. Gently tickle their chest
Step. 3 Remove your hand and see if the doctor wants more.

I’m sure none of you need reminding, but if you can’t stand barefoot on a hot pavement for five seconds, it’s also too h...
20/06/2025

I’m sure none of you need reminding, but if you can’t stand barefoot on a hot pavement for five seconds, it’s also too hot for your dog.

They rely on their paws and panting to cool down — imagine walking around in a fur coat in this heat!

Please don’t leave dogs in hot cars, even for a few minutes. It can be fatal far quicker than people realise.

Let’s keep them safe. 🐾💛

As temperatures rise in the UK, it’s crucial to know how to respond if your dog shows signs of heatstroke. Current veter...
13/05/2025

As temperatures rise in the UK, it’s crucial to know how to respond if your dog shows signs of heatstroke. Current veterinary advice is to act quickly: “Cool First, Then Transport.” Actively cooling your dog with cold water (not just cool) is now recommended followed by immediate veterinary care. Delaying cooling while arranging transportation can reduce the chances of survival.

Let us investigate the myth behind cooling animals with heat stroke with tepid water.Although it is generally agreed that rapid, effective cooling increases survival in heat stroke, there continues to be debate on the optimal cooling method. As with many things, we often find ourselves with lots of....

12/05/2025

Try hiding their balls and get them to search for them instead as sniffing wears them out more than this ever will

Great news for dog carers
01/05/2025

Great news for dog carers

Some very paw-sitive news

29/04/2025

I may, (paws crossed), have a happy story to tell you about a “need-to-be-rescued dog,” but I’ll wait on that until I have more to report. (Please cross your paws; and no, we won’t be the ones taking it!) Meanwhile, I’m thinking a lot the last few days about house training a dog who has [....

An annual reminder
29/04/2025

An annual reminder

10/10/2024

Word of the Week: Cue

The terms “cue” and “command” are frequently used interchangeably in dog training. In psychology, both terms refer to a “discriminative stimulus” which is a signal that serves to communicate to the animal the availability of a particular consequence or reinforcer.

Modern animal trainers consistently prefer using the term “cue” rather than “command” because we are requesting an animal perform a behavior rather than insisting they do it. Insisting the pet do the behavior implies that you will do something aversive to the pet of the pet does not comply. Good animal training is about empowering animals and creating an environment of cooperation rather than intimidation.

10/10/2024

What does appropriate play between dogs look like?🐶

Play between dogs should be reciprocated and balanced, with plenty of shorter and longer breaks mixed in (both dog-led and human-led breaks). Look for relaxed, fluid body language and dogs shifting their weight around. The dogs interacting should be changing up HOW they play and not focusing solely on one type (ex: chasing, bitey-face, wrestling), and should give space between themselves and the other dog frequently as well as take turns initiating.

When a dog is insisting on one type of play, not listening to the other dog giving space, not allowing them to move away, or being overly pushy and persistent, those are good indicators that the attempts at play are not healthy or reciprocated in the moment. You may also notice a shift in how the dogs are moving; from fluid motions to stiff or rigid, and maybe even frantic.

When it comes to finding playmates for your pup, we recommend avoiding crowded areas like a dog park at 5pm on a weekday and seek out times when you can find one other dog or a couple of small groups already displaying healthy playstyles with attentive owners. We often recommend avoiding dog parks entirely due to the unpredictable nature of people and dogs you don't know.
Good alternatives: yard space or a Sniffspot & inviting another human/dog pair for a play date!

If you notice unhealthy attempts at play, don't leave it up to the dogs to "figure it out". Hence the "human-led breaks" above. Even if two dogs are playing well together, it's still good to step in every few minutes to insist on a longer break where they can practice scavenging for food or performing cues they know before checking to see if both dogs seem interested in continuing to interact and play.

Important notes: Your dog doesn't need to play with other dogs to live a happy, fulfilling life. Nor does your dog need to play with EVERY dog. Not all dogs are suited for dog parks or daycare. Realistically, many dogs want to interact with new dogs less as they age, though they may have a few closer friends they're happy to continue seeing!
Post inspiration/video: Mara Velez & Kikopup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZbeFrr9hyg

10/10/2024

When dogs are afraid, it’s really worth using reward-based methods to rehabilitate them as quickly as possible. Chronic fear and anxiety cause real suffering so if you can rebuild the dog’s confidence quickly, it’s so very worthwhile because it means they can get back to enjoying life that much sooner.

If you want to build a dog’s confidence and help them feel comfortable, one of the most valuable tools you can use is food. If a stimulus is paired with food frequently enough, the dog will start to associate the stimulus with food and this will cause the dog to feel better about the stimulus. Luring a fearful dog with food can be a very powerful technique that really accelerates rehabilitation BUT YOU HAVE TO BE VERY CAREFUL that you don’t push the dog too far too fast.

If a dog is very food motivated, you can lure them too close to something that makes them feel very scared, and this can be a dangerous and counterproductive situation. If the dog is too scared they might take the food and then react aggressively as soon as the food is gone, or they may simply be so scared that they are unable to form a positive association from the food.

On that note, you should not use this exercise (or any exercise you read about on the internet!) with a dog that is dangerous. If a dog has bitten a person hard enough to cause a serious injury, it means they are likely to do so again. This dog needs help from a professional dog trainer who understands how to read body language and use positive reinforcement methods to safely rehabilitate the dog.

Fortunately, most fearful and reactive dogs are not dangerous. They bark, they lunge, they snap, and they may even “bite” but their bites don’t make contact with the skin, or they don’t break the skin. These dogs have learned bite inhibition and they are safe to work with and you can use this technique to quickly rebuild their confidence.

Yes, this technique involves using food to lure the dog to approach you (or some other stimulus that makes them uncomfortable) but you don’t lure them so close that they are overwhelmed with fear or in danger of reacting aggressively and that makes all the difference.

As they approach, they get high-value treats, reinforcing them for approaching and helping them form a positive association with you (or the scary stimulus). But then, you use a lower value treat to lure the dog further away again. This low value treat is still providing a Classical Conditioning effect, helping your dog form a positive association with the stimulus, but it’s also providing a contrast to the high-value treats that the dog received during their approach.

Crucially, the dog is now back to a very comfortable distance again so when you toss high value treats to lure them to approach, they are moving towards you, but they’re comfortably far away.

Luring a dog to approach a scary stimulus like this is a very powerful and useful technique that can really accelerate the rehabilitation process, so long as you don’t push the dog too far too fast. And as you repeat these steps, luring the dog to approach and retreat repeatedly, the dog is going to get much more comfortable about approaching and being near you.

You can test this at any time by pausing the exercise and seeing what the dog does and where they go when there are no treats offered. At the beginning, a fearful dog will stay quite far away, but after a few minutes of this exercise, there is a good chance that they will readily come closer to the person, even without any food to lure them.

Be patient, watch your dog’s body language, and keep luring the dog back to a very comfortable distance to reset and this technique can work wonders.

If you do this long enough, you will get to the point where the dog will come right up to you without you offering a food lure. If the dog comes right up to you without you tossing a treat to lure your dog, and the dog looks comfortable, you can now try offering a treat directly from your hand. When you do so, you should keep your hand down by your side and you should always have multiple treats in your hand. When you get to the last treat, either toss it to lure the dog away from you, or withdraw your hand before you feed the last treat because an empty human hand is much scarier than a human hand with treats in it.

If you do this enough, it won’t be long before the dog happily takes treats from your hand. At this point, you can feed the dog an entire meal by hand and they will quickly start to feel comfortable around you, and the dog’s life will be much more relaxed and happier as a result.

Again, you should not do this with a dog that is dangerous, and you should be very patient with this exercise. Don’t rush it. Keep luring the dog back to a comfortable distance and it won’t be long before this dog loves approaching you and being near you.

Wow, did you really read all this? Amazing! Do you have or know a fearful dog? If so, tell us about them in the comments.

If you’d like help rehabilitating a fearful dog, you should join the Top Dog Academy, which you can do now for free with a 1-month free trial. We can help you rehabilitate your fearful dog with methods that are easy, gentle and also quick and effective. We want to rebuild your dog’s confidence as quickly as possible!

https://dunbar.info/oct2024TDA

Sign up now and you’ll get instant access to lots of great resources. We’ll be available to guide you through the process with personalized training advice. In one month, you could resolve their fearfulness and be back to enjoying a fear-free life together!

And if you’d like to download a PDF version of this document, or if you’d like to learn more about it, go here: https://dunbar.info/retreat-with-honor

27/08/2024

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