06/12/2024
Socialisation basics: top 10 tips
1: practice all 3 things you want your dog to be able do: A: walk on by B: stop, sniff and walk on C: go play but come back when asked. Don't over balance one. If your dog always plays but never walks on by, they'll over excite when they see dogs. If they never play, they won't have much social robustness.
2: learn to 'read the room' - learn about body language ( actually of people as well as dogs), so you can work out which of the above to do when you see a dog in public. It's your job to ensure your dog has good experiences in public. You wouldn't let your child run off to play with a random gang of unknown teenagers, so why is your puppy any different?
3: here's a key golden rule: NEVER LET YOUR LOOSE DOG RUN OVER TO A DOG ON A LEAD. Dogs on lead feel trapped and more vulnerable and they could be on a lead for many reasons - sick or injured, elderly and vulnerable, reactive - or the owner just wants to mind their own business and have a quiet, undisturbed walk, which is their absolute right. By all means, ask an owner with a dog on a lead if a sniff hello is OK, but get permission first.
4: avoid head to head meetings. Dogs go straight at things when targeting them. That's why dogs naturally circle on approach- they're saying 'im not targeting you'. So even if on a lead, on a pavement, use the limited space you have to encourage your dog to take even just one step to the side, and curve in to say 'hi'.
5: watch for stillness and stiffness. A social dog saying hello will show some movement - even if its just wiggling the nose as they sniff. If they go still, it's time to call away - that's a sign they've become uncomfortable and could be about to say 'go away!'
6: watch the flexibility in the tail. Wagging tail is just a signal of intent to engage - it could be social or antisocial. The more relaxed a dog is, the more the tail will curve and flop as it wags.
7: dogs have the right to say 'no'. Never force a dog closer on a lead if they're seeking space. If either dog signals they want space ( either with avoidance or defensive behaviour), the other dog should be encouraged to respect that and move away.
8: play should involve role reversals. Eg one dog should chase for a while, then allow the other dog to chase them. While some dogs love to play the victim - eg many sighthounds love to be chased - its dogs who only like to play the aggressor that may need to be asked occasionally to calm down and disengage before they get too committed to their role.
9: if you want 2 dogs to become friends, go for a ' parallel walk' - instead of meeting head to head, go for a lead stroll together in the same direction, enjoying sniffs etc together. Getting them walking together and ejoying the exploration of non- territory as a team, rather than facing of with each other.
10: finally, remember that a walk is a team activity between you and your dog - don't 'use' other peoples pets in the park to tire your dog out! Let your dog explore, but call them back regularly for games and fun training activities so they want to engage with you. The walk is an experience you share - don't just be the anchor around his neck calling him away from fun.
Natalie Lagstrom
BSc (hons) Behavioural Science
MSc Animal Behaviour
ICB
