The Mutty Professor

The Mutty Professor Clinical Animal Behaviourist & Dog Trainer (MSc CAB, APBC CAB, CCAB, ABTC ATI & CAB) supported by an awesome team of qualified professionals.

Click follow for behaviour and training info & lots of silly banter
http://www.themuttyprofessor.com Bristol based pet shop, dog training, dog behavior counselling and training classes.

🐕 TIPS ON HOW TO APPROPRIATELY & HEALTHILY SOCIALISE YOUR PUPPY /DOG WITH OTHER DOGS 🐶If you want a dog who interacts we...
22/02/2025

🐕 TIPS ON HOW TO APPROPRIATELY & HEALTHILY SOCIALISE YOUR PUPPY /DOG WITH OTHER DOGS 🐶

If you want a dog who interacts well with other dogs, follow these easy to remember guidelines.

1️⃣ Help them learn that not every dog is available for social interactions.

By considering how suitable BOTH dogs are, you will naturally create a balance of avoid vs approach.

For example, if you have an exuberant young dog, then it’s unlikely a senior dog will enjoy their efforts to play. Recall to create space and reward to make avoidance more valuable.

Similarly, if your puppy/dog is nervous, avoid exuberant dogs who may be too invasive of personal space and escalate existing fears.
Instead, orient closer to relaxed, ploddy dogs as and when your puppy/dog is ready.

Don’t force or rush your nervous puppy/dog into close encounters and interactions.

Even friendly and social puppies and dogs can have low confidence/fearful days, due to stress, tiredness, pain and brain development phases.

Adapt your approach to exposure to dogs based on where they are at that day (or the day before).

Being mindful that many dogs on lead or a longline may need space and maintaining appropriate distance will further manage the expectations of highly social dogs. If the handler communicates all is well (the dog is on lead to improve recall but socialises well), then an interaction may not be off the cards! But do consider whether it’s practical to allow interactions if your puppy/dog is also on lead!


2️⃣ Teach your puppy /dog to not approach dogs from great distances!

Consider how quickly you can intervene from the distance you are, should there be a problem such as a fight or attack.

Interactions should generally happen within 15 metres of you, not across the meadow.
If you’re nice and close, you can monitor and manage (if needed) the quality of the interaction.

3️⃣ Teach your puppy/dog to approach other dogs at a steady pace.

High speed approaches can be perceived as threatening and trigger defensive behaviour. Fast and chaotic behaviour may also trigger a dog’s prey drive.

Polite approaches involve a walk, trot or slow canter that slows further as they drawn in closer. Ideally they should move in curve on approach or stand still to invite the dog to close the final distance.

Stalking or lying down and then firing at the dog at speed is not appreciated by the vast majority of dogs and will set the interaction off on a bad foot.

4️⃣ Teach your puppy/dog to not expect play from every dog.

The majority of their interactions should be mooching along and exploring with calm dogs or a brief “Good morning! Have a nice day!” with suitable passing dogs.

High intensity play should be less frequent and carefully monitored!

5️⃣ Help them read the room. They should learn to recognise invitation (consent) to approach, disinterest or requests for space.

But equally, you need to know what these signals look like in order to guide your puppy/dog into making appropriate decisions when they can’t do so on their own, such as recalling them away and moving on.

You should be close enough and paying attention so that you can see that your dog’s approach is anticipated and welcomed by the other dog as well as see easily what communication is going on between the dogs as they interact.

📝 What you need

-Awareness
-A proactive attitude
-Understanding of dog body language
-Time to practise recall in lower distraction situations
-A variety of high value treats
-A longline
-Their favourite toy to occassionally reward recall (don’t engage them with toys close to unfamiliar dogs).

There are two webinars on play and body language under education in our website aswell as handouts (with videos) on managing longlines and teaching recall.

⚠️ Even super friendly dogs can develop problem behaviours. For some, all it takes is one dog to give them a strong bollocking for their unsolicited and intrusive approach and a fear of dogs can develop.

‼️ Remember, your puppy/dog doesn’t have to do socialise on every walk, not every day in order to be socialised.

Make sure you take time and space to help teach them to think about you and respond to you.

But also, a nice ploddy walk exploring the environment calmly can help prevent walks becoming a thrill seeking experience that leaves you with an over aroused dog that’s difficult to manage.

🌟 It’s easier to build these foundations early on in a young puppy / dog, rather than waiting until they are more confident, experienced and exuberant, and/or bigger and stronger.

Photo of a slightly deranged looking Mohawk by Matt Elliott Pet Photography 💕

21/02/2025

As an ex-stray dog from Malaga in Spain, Amigo has got applying pressure and personal space invasion down to a T!

I imagine he was very good at getting given scraps of food from tourists eating outside as he is so persistent with the most unwavering stare! 😂

“FFS! I give up!! Just take the whole paella 🥘 “

I have to admit we were both a little taken aback by some of his body language and tendancy for invading space (often more so than this!) when he first arrived.

He can be very serious looking and stiff in the neck and face when demanding things (attention, his dinner, his afternoon chew etc!).
But we’ve now learned to read his individual traits, recognising when he’s uncomfortable and when he’s trying to make us uncomfortable (enough so that we give in!) 😂.

He often looks and behaves like a right solum Eeyore in the house and in contrast- on walks he hoons around with a massive grin on his face!

He’s quite the character!

🍞 Toast is a STUNNING Galgo rescue from Spain who had her separation anxiety assessment with our SA expert Hayley earlie...
21/02/2025

🍞 Toast is a STUNNING Galgo rescue from Spain who had her separation anxiety assessment with our SA expert Hayley earlier this month!

Good luck team Toast! You’ve got this 💪

THE RIGHT TYPE OF LEAD CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE!I've been nagging Eat Play Love to stock some nice, thick, padded lon...
20/02/2025

THE RIGHT TYPE OF LEAD CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE!

I've been nagging Eat Play Love to stock some nice, thick, padded longlines for large and/or strong dogs and they've come up trumps!

When it comes to the right longline for you and your dog, there are a few things to consider.

- Thickness

Thin leads are harder to grip (when needed) in the hand. A lead slipping through your hand, such as when a dog is chasing something or lunging at something can be a safety issue.
Accidental payout of slack can also reinforce pulling/lunging.

Lack of confidence in grip ability can elevate handler stress and make walking and training your dog more stressful.

That said, the thicker the lead, the heavier it likely is! We should always consider the weight of the lead in contrast to our dog's size and weight. If you have a small dog or puppy, check out Eat Play Love puppy light longlines! These are also great for fading out the longline, as the final stage of recall training (as dragging the weight can slow dogs down or inhibit what they would do when off lead).

- Fabric / texture

Sorry to those who make grippy rubberised leads, but I find they burn the hands when a dog moves at speed.
Biothane leads can get super whippy when wet of a dog is moving at speed.
For steady paced dogs who don't react suddenly, both of the above are great options. Although Biothane can be slippy when wet, which isn't ideal for large and strong dogs, should they lunge.

Fear of your hands being burned or whipped by the lead can lead us to pre-emptively grip the lead, which can elevate frustration.

The only downside to these leads is they get heavier if wet. Which is not such a big deal for large dogs!

- Length

"The longer the lead, the less control you have" is my saying for up close encounters with other dogs (or people).
If you are using a really long lead, you need to have the skills to move up that lead really quickly to shorten it, or to recall your dog to you reliably to reduce the length.

If your dog runs at speed to the end of a really long lead (10 metres plus), there's a chance you can be pulled off your feet.
The less sniffing your dog does the more likely they are just going to pull at the end of a really long lead.

Really long lines (10m +) are great for dogs who STEADILY cruise at a speed that would reach the end of a 5m too often (causing frustration in handler and dog for frequent stopping!).

If a dog is a 0-100mph type of individual, then DO NOT let slack pool on the group, because you and your dog will get a massive yank when they hit the end of that length and that can hurt and stress both of you!

For my large reactive dog clients, I advise longlines of 2-5 metres length for control (in a park environment). The slower the dog, the shorter the lead can be. Some dogs need a few metres to settle into their natural gait and be able to move towards sniffs.


Lead lengths, textures and weight is nuanced! For a video supported handout on safe longline handling, visit out website and head to the 'education' page.

Please follow Eat Play Love to stay tuned on some great items, including lots of dog training goods!

5m longlines for handling stronger or larger pups!

25mm air webbing ensures a soft and comfortable, but also a strong and durable lead

Available with or without a handle sewn in

Dusty has been practising his recall and loose lead walking with team member Abi on his walk N trains! He can also bark ...
19/02/2025

Dusty has been practising his recall and loose lead walking with team member Abi on his walk N trains! He can also bark and lunge at some dogs, and prior to his walk n trains received a full assessment from team member Hayley!

Dusty rewarded his own efforts with a beautiful specimen of a stick to carry! 🥰

Walk N trains are like a dog walking service, but where we focus on training! As a service that’s increasing in popularity - being offered now by many professionals across the UK (and likely even internationally) they do not, and should not, bypass or replace a thorough behaviour assessment (vet referral included!).

A young adolescent who is refining foundation behaviours may not need a full behaviour assessment. Whereas a dog who is barking and lunging at other dogs, for example, does!

Consistency is also crucial! After three walks, we do a session with the client to ensure everyone is on the same page, so to maintain progress!

Whilst our walk N trains are available to anyone - all of our behaviour cases are offered this at a discounted rate - so to accelerate progress and give clients some much needed respite!

18/02/2025

☀️ BLUE SKIES & DOG TRAINING FUN 🐕

I’ve been so busy with cases that I’ve not really given my guys individual training sessions in my field for a few weeks. We’ve done individual village walks and snippets of training when they’re all in my field together, but this doesn’t really allow us to fully flex!

We always do husbandry and physio inside a few times a week!

With a blue sky and an intentionally less busy week in terms of seeing clients, it was nice to get in my field and give the boys some training time apart!

We are all a little rusty- mostly me! 😆

At 13 years old Kanita doesn’t do much training anymore. She participates in her own way….on her platform, trotting over her poles, asking for treat searches and knocking the camera over 😂

God knows how the butt on my clean-on- today leggings got mucky! 🤷‍♀️

How many different behaviours can you count in this video?

Did you know that dogs will attend to different types of scent with a nostril bias?In a 2016 study, researchers observed...
18/02/2025

Did you know that dogs will attend to different types of scent with a nostril bias?

In a 2016 study, researchers observed that dogs will attend to the scent of a stressed dog with a right nostril bias, whereas they attended to the scent of stressed humans with a left nostril bias.

This suggests that different pathways in the dog’s brain are involved in processing emotional olfactory cues from conspecifics (other dogs) and heterospecifics.

17/02/2025

The adolescent brain goes through structural changes that affects the regulation of emotions and arousal. This makes dogs (and other species!) vulnerable to ‘overflow’ behaviour.

When arousal levels or emotional responses escalate in dogs, they can tip over into challenging behaviours, such as mounting, lead ragging, mouthing and jumping.

These behaviours are often self rewarding in nature as well as tricky to deal with! Especially out on walks where removing yourself from the situation isn’t possible.

They can be stressful, painful and embarrassing and this can easily lead to us respond in a way that elevates the dog’s stress further - such as by moving too quickly or verbally correcting them.

Staying calm, saying less, talking in a slow and gentle way, moving slowly and trying to avoid telling your dog off can help calm things down and stop the behaviour in the moment - without damaging your relationship, as well as reducing the risk of the behaviour intensifying.

Considering what triggered the behaviour will help you avoid it in the future.

Awesome work by all the Teams yesterday: Bruce the Boxer, Sammy the Whippet X, Maddie the mix, Kizzy the Shih Tzu, Willo...
16/02/2025

Awesome work by all the Teams yesterday:

Bruce the Boxer, Sammy the Whippet X, Maddie the mix, Kizzy the Shih Tzu, Willow the Sprocker, Toby WCS, Cassidy WCS and Bamse the Staffie on their outdoor classes with me yesterday!

Thanks to Emma and Pat for assisting! X

Here’s Bamse looking like a disappointed tourist on a cheap all inclusive winter break ☔️ 😂Despite the drizzle we had tw...
15/02/2025

Here’s Bamse looking like a disappointed tourist on a cheap all inclusive winter break

☔️ 😂

Despite the drizzle we had two great classes today and Bamse did enjoy himself- he just has a moody concentration face! 🤘

I'm a big fan of Animal Behaviour Kent so it's flattering as hell to be asked to present two webinars for them this year...
14/02/2025

I'm a big fan of Animal Behaviour Kent so it's flattering as hell to be asked to present two webinars for them this year.

The first one is 21st February, revisiting The Social Dog for those who missed it the first time and want to participate live.

The next one will be in May and I have a feeling the topic is going to be very exciting for many of you! Watch this space!

ABK have some great webinars on their website..... those who are like me and love neuroscience, I thoroughly recommend!

Conflict within multi-dog households can come in many shapes and forms, and is something we are called in to support with a lot at ABK.

However, what factors are really at play in these cases? Should the controversial 'dominance' conversation be something that influences our decision making and analysis when supporting multi dog households?

Find out about all this and more on 21st February at 6pm (GMT) with Roz Pooley!

In this webinar, you will learn to:

🐶 Critically consider social dynamics in dogs.
🐶 Understand the complexities behind relationships in multi dog households.
🐶 Learn how to reduce the risk of aggressive behaviour by understanding social behaviour more thoroughly.

Tickets are just £19.99 or sign up to ABK Learn Plus to access monthly webinars at no extra cost!

https://www.abklearn.co.uk/courses/social-dog

12/02/2025

Hit 25k followers today 🥳

11/02/2025

🐑 Teaching dogs to be calm around or when passing sheep 🐑

If you like long, detailed training videos- this one is for you!

❌ Whilst avoiding sheep is sensible if the option is there, sometimes it isn’t!
Without careful exposure to livestock, you and your dog are completely unprepared for the times you can’t go back the way you came or when a different isn’t available.

🐢 Take your time! What may feel like ages really isn’t that long. If you push through or past too quickly and your dog goes well over threshold, not only does that increase the risk of you loosing control, but the next time you try you will have more work to do trying to keep your dog calm! Which will take longer.

The first walk/approach in this video took about 8-10 minutes per dog. Second walk/approach took a couple of minutes, mostly due to that being the duration it takes to walk that far!

The tortoise and the hare!

🐑 Give the sheep time to move away. Some sheep can be resistant to moving, I’ve met some who are very reluctant to move before. I find talking to them while approaching slowly and pausing to give them time to think through their options helps them move on without trotting or running.

🐕 Keep your dog as calm and responsive as possible. Loose lead walking, sniffing, lower arousal and overall disinterest (especially when closer to the sheep) will help keep the sheep calm. Calm sheep are less interesting, and less likely to trigger chase!

👀 Here you’ll see me balance initial information gathering with prompting disengagement. A dog is going to find something easier to ignore if they have had time to figure out what the hell it is first!
You can see how less interested my dogs are on walk two. This is because they were allowed to gather information at a distance the first time round.

As living beings significantly outnumbering the dog- sheep can actually be quite scary for some dogs! Especially if they stare or respond defensively (stamp, posture etc).

Putting the blinkers on your dog leaves them ill prepared for closer encounters. It’s better they figure out what they are approaching at a distance, where you can also more easily assess if they are going to cope.

Scared or startled dogs can behave in a way that startles the sheep. Startled sheep behave like prey.

By letting the dog calmly information gathering they can establish the sheep as non threatening and they are more likely to ignore them. Keep the sheep calm and at a sensible distance by not rushing forward and by keeping your dog calm, and ignoring should continue.

🪢 Remember, the country code and farmers nationwide request that dogs are kept on lead around livestock. A shorter lead will help your dog behave predictably, keeping the sheep more calm.

😵‍💫 If your dog pulls excessively on the lead, they will be more aroused. Excessively aroused dogs may cause sheep to be more anxious - not only at the sight of an over aroused dog, but because sheep also have a great sense of smell....and stress genuinely stinks!

You are more at risk of losing control if your dog is over aroused and pulling on the lead.

✋ If you worry about dropping the lead, get a waist belt lead.

If you’re worried your dog will slip their equipment, then they probably shouldn’t be near sheep at all. But two points of attachment (lead attached to harness and collar) is safer.

🗣️ If you can’t see what’s in the next field or over the brow of the hill, call your dog close to you and put your dog on lead.

09/02/2025

AMIGO: “I think you should leave” 🤣

This little dog has approached us before. They’re after my treats (they don’t get any!).

Historically she has come over and then growled at the dogs once as they have got too close while she has sniffed for residue treats on the floor. The treats were given for a recall, but I now try not get food out (or instead I treat to mouth) when she’s in view - as on that one occasion it motivated her to cross the distance.

You can see my two boys stand and face the dog as she deviates well off course, clearly heading over to us. Whilst their stance is alert, their body muscle tone is not too tense and they look away briefly. They’re signalling they are very aware of her approach and ready respond, but they do not intend to start trouble.

If I recalled my dogs, all that would do is draw that dog in closer and possibly faster, as it’s safer to approach when another dog turns their back.

I’m not going to put my dogs in a position of motivational conflict by asking them to ignore a dog who is very clearly going to come into our space. So, I let them communicate and by doing so, the little dog is forced to negotiate entering their space. Slowing down, putting a bend in their body and widening the span of their tail movement to reduce the tension caused by their direct approach.

You can see the little dog has piloerection (hair standing up) and this is often the case with this individual. I believe it’s because she is conflicted, not being here to socialise but having to do so in order to try and meet her primary goal (getting closer to food).

Mohawk has a brief interaction and then Amigo takes over as the dog makes a break for me.
Amigo is a nose to nose greeter, but here he blocks her way a little and sustains his position - signalling she is unwelcome. She sits with hunched shoulders (making herself small) to diffuse tension, averting her gaze and angling her head away a little. This is to signal she means no harm- as his approach is direct and his body and face carries some tension during the interaction.

Mohawk picks up on the tension, skirting the edges ready to support his friend if needed and vocalises as his arousal increases.

This is my point to move on, especially as she’s close and trying to get to me. Now the boys have slowed her down and caused her to think the situation through a bit- she’s less likely to follow and my boys are likely going to easily and confidently move on. She doesn’t follow, all is well!

Had I walked on earlier then all of this would have happened at more speed and likely been more intense. Or the dog would have approached from behind my boys (who tend to be a few metres ahead). Being followed may have caused them anxiety or resulted in a startle response (turning round and seeing her closer than they were ready for) and they may responded with a little charge to slow her down or send her on her way.

Slowing down and letting them take their time to signal to one another resulted in a less intense interaction overall.

It’s not easy for dogs to blank dogs who have gone to a great effort to approach. Asking for a recall or known behaviour whilst a dog is so clearly coming over can put them in a tricky position, which can taint the value of the cue > behaviour > reward process.

I personally am very careful about when I ask my dogs to do anything around dogs in this context. Sometimes I will recall one or both away to diffuse a situation and aid moving on- but I always try and quickly anticipate what the other dog’s next move might be so they don’t pester my dogs or me as we try and move away.

08/02/2025

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO WATCH A WEBINAR ON ?

(DOG TRAINING & BEHAVIOUR RELATED TOPICS OBVS!!!)

Team member Hayley met Lefty and his family yesterday, working on his excitement around visitors and the occasional foul...
06/02/2025

Team member Hayley met Lefty and his family yesterday, working on his excitement around visitors and the occasional foul mouth tirade towards dogs!

Isn’t he gorgeous? 😍

One of the promises we cannot make at puppy class is that you’ll go home with the right puppy! 😂Coincidental colour co-o...
05/02/2025

One of the promises we cannot make at puppy class is that you’ll go home with the right puppy! 😂

Coincidental colour co-ordination for January’s groups! Keeping me on my toes for the social session that ends each practical class!

Well done to everybody! You all did a great job

💕💕💕

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