19/04/2025
FLOODING DURING SOCIAL REHABILITATION
Muzzling dogs to safeguard interactions is sometimes needed. BUT multiple muzzled dogs in a group of dogs is a RED FLAG 🚩
Whilst muzzles are sometimes a necessity, we should always keep in mind a few things when using them within a social context. Whilst this can include dog-human interactions, this post will focus on dog-dog interactions.
1️⃣ The dog should be taught to feel comfortable wearing the muzzle. They should be happy to put their nose into the muzzle, allowing it to be clipped on. They should also be comfortable wearing it for longer durations, being able to sniff, drink, pant whilst wearing the muzzle as well as taking treats through the muzzle. This can take quite some time.
2️⃣ Whilst dogs can be taught to tolerate a muzzle, my belief is that most are aware they are disarmed for wearing one. Whether that awareness will come through trial and error (attempting to bite and realising they cannot) or recognising that the weighted object on their nose limits what they can do with their mouthas they move around whilst wearing one will depend on the dog.
But with this in mind, we should be mindful that some dogs may feel more anxious for wearing a muzzle. They may be able to work through that anxiety and grow more comfortable over time or some dogs may exhibit behavioural inhibition, which can give handlers the false impression of progress. For example, the dog is not reacting in the muzzle, so they must be okay now! The muzzle comes off, the dog now shows their true motivations and emotions which could catch handlers out.
Alternatively, I see plenty of dogs who are more reactive or vigilant when wearing a muzzle.
3️⃣ Some dogs can respond negatively to another dog wearing a muzzle. This may be due to inexperience (having not seen a dog looking like that before, especially with the really large muzzles). Or it may be that they cannot read the dog so easily, as the muzzle is hiding or obstructing the view of important signals, such as muzzle tension, lip curling or lip licking.
4️⃣ Being sniffed by a dog wearing a muzzle can be an alien experience for some dogs. My own Amigo has responded with a startle response when a dog wearing a muzzle sniffed his bottom! He's had plenty of noses sniff his bum before, but had likely not experienced the feeling of a plastic muzzle being pushed onto his rear end.
5️⃣ Some dogs may take time adapting their spatial awareness whilst wearing a muzzle, for example, not realising when the muzzle starts sniffing a dog and accidentally bashing it into the dog, which can cause the other dog to tense up (if inexperienced).
When we see multiple dogs together wearing muzzles- such as on training walks for reactive dogs- we should be aware of all of the above.
We should consider whether we are building optimism and/or promoting appropriate behaviour in dogs who are reactive towards other dogs and whether putting them around other dogs who are also pessimistic and/or who behave in a way that is considered socially inappropriate (fixating, charging in, lunging, barking etc) is a healthy learning environment.
In my opinion, putting reactive dogs around other reactive dogs in such close proximity is risky. Using muzzles as a key strategy for safeguarding and supporting progress is flooding.
Whilst reactive dog classes can be done well, adequate space is needed between the dogs to prevent them negatively affecting one another.
To help a dog feel comfortable in up-close interactions, socially robust and skilled dogs are needed.
More often than not, the dog has to start with one or two dogs and the distance often needs to be gradually decreased.
Being surrounded by multiple dogs can be incredibly stressful for a reactive dog lacking experience, and they should be eased into the experience to avoid overwhelm that results in behavioural inhibition or worsening of the problem behaviour.
Too often I am seeing baseline footage showing a muzzled dog reacting- whilst being surrounded in close proximity by lots of other dogs.
This is flooding and flooding is a high risk procedure.
When I see content showing multiple dogs in a dog-dog training context on a group walk, all in close proximity, quite commonly I see some of the reactive dogs looking very tense.
Signs of a dog feeling anxious:
🐕 Absence of sniffing
🐕 Quick, frantic glances around them
🐕 Ears pulled back.
🐕 Tension in the body and tail.
The more bounce and swing in the body and tail, the more relaxed a dog likely feels.
🐕 Startling (even if a small response) as another dog comes within close proximity.
🐕 Sometimes we may even see dogs who are acting as if the other dogs are not there. Blinkers on, head down, efficient, linear movement- drawing as little attention to themselves as possible.
Flooding sometimes works, but the process is often VERY stressful for the learner as they are immersed in an experience they do not have the skills or resources to cope with.
Often the dogs featured are on a short, tight lead at the start of the process.
We should consider the effects of this restraint (short, tight lead and muzzle) on how the dog feels and what they are learning. Especially in terms of their owner/guardian being a point of safety and advocating for their needs.
Some dogs will learn "I can't do anything- so I give up".
They may then realise whilst inhibiting their behaviour that... "actually, that wasn't so bad". Whilst for others, the stress of that experience can make their behaviour worse.
I can understand why people utilise flooding. I do think that sometimes, social rehabilitation is taking longer than necessery for SOME dogs. However, a sped up process doesn't have to involve flooding. It just takes some creativity.
But for some dogs, they absolutely need more time and flooding can have dire consequences.
Therefore, those who begin with intense flooding are taking big risks with their clients, and their clients may not be aware of these risks.
There is some merit in teaching reactive dogs that, sometimes other dogs are not super relaxed and may not behave perfectly- as they will likely encounter such dogs on their walks.
However, this proofing should come at a later stage and is why all of the dogs who attend our reactive dog classes are required to make a certain amount of progress on their 1-2-1 sessions first.
These 1-2-1 sessions follow an in depth assessment via vet referral. This is crucial to understanding the dog in order to help them effectively.
Anyone whose assessment of a dog is solely ‘on the go’ and within the problem context is risking overlooking key motivating factors to the problem behaviour. This elevates risk on practical set ups but also risks any progress made being completely superficial.
What we should be considering when we see content that shows flooding is ....
"HOW DOES THIS SET UP TRANSLATE INTO EVERYDAY LIFE FOR THE DOG?"
Dogs can behave very differently when they encounter one dog than when they are surrounded by multiple. Some dogs can think clearly enough in these situations to consider the consequences of drawing attention to themselves when outnumbered and will inhibit their behaviour within that context, only to behave very differently when not surrounded.
Furthermore, a muzzled dog can STILL scare a dog or a person with their behaviour.
If we are not helping a 'reactive' dog be under threshold and learn how to calm approach another (if they want to) then what are the risks of them rushing over to another dog on walks, or being walked on lead too close to dogs, even if wearing a muzzle?
Alternatively what happens when the owner thinks their dog is now fine, and takes the muzzle off.......
(Again, all of the above applies to dog who struggles with people being put in a muzzle and put around unfamiliar persons up close).
Clinical Animal Behaviourist & Dog Trainer (MSc CAB, APBC CAB, CCAB, ABTC ATI & CAB) supported by an awesome team of qualified professionals.
